Shelly 1PM Relay Switch Installation For Standard Light Switch

Here is how I, a novice with some electrical experience install a Shelly 1PM relay switch to make a standard light switch Smart. The PM stands for Power Monitoring so you'll know how much power you're consuming. I am not an electrician and this is not a tutorial. This is just my video blog documenting my journey into smart home tech. If you're not familiar with electrical please hire an electrician.
Though I have had no issues as of Jan. 2023, in hindsight I should have tinned the ends of the stranded wire before attaching.
Link to all Shelly products on Amazon amzn.to/3XlfcJr
Amazon Shelly 1PM amzn.to/3Hg1uSw
Amazon Shelly 1PM UL amzn.to/3ZLGCtK
Connectors Used- Amazon- amzn.to/3QUSlCm
Electrical Tester, Continuity amzn.to/3CYEOnk

[@tollav]

You filmed this with a Wyze camera? That is next level. Awesome

[@iKingRPG]

Lol

[@Capu57]

Thank you for your video. I bought Qty (2) shelly 1+ and Qty (2) Shelly 2.5. The videos that shelly has do not in my opinion explain well enough. Every other video I have seen not from shelly are using wiring in Europe or the middle easy, and rarely have audio other than some cheesy music. It was awesome to see this installed on North American wiring and having someone explain it as they go. 😀

[@WindsofChange2112]

How did the switch and the shelly fit into the single gang box?

[@Phelper99]

That's exactly what I was wanting to see! I'm considering Shelly's on a few switches instead of going ZWave, but my experience has always been those wall boxes have no extra room in them.

[@diyconnectedhome6102]

I had no problems, it was a little tight but I didn't have to modify anything.

[@CarnivoreRonin]

My Shelly 1 v3 is the new UL listed one and not the PM or power monitoring. The terminals are labeled O, I, SW, L(-), and N(+). I am trying to figure out the proper wiring for that myself without the L and LI. Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks

[@61JWolf]

There is a diagram included in the box. Neutral is connected as described in this video. The L and I terminals on the Shelly1 can be connected to a 4 way connector along with one terminal of the switch and the line (input) black wire. The SW terminal on the Shelly1 is connected to the opposite terminal of the switch. The O terminal on the Shelly1 is connected to the black wire going to the load (output).

[@johnhale5527]

@@61JWolf Succinctly put and summarizes the end configuration nicely! I have copied this text to my "How to" folder. Thank you for your contribution.

[@ehink2716]

Where you get the plugges used for the three way connectors. can you add a link.

[@diyconnectedhome6102]

I bought them at Lowe's.

[@tonyhwang3888]

called 'plug in connector. Home depot sells them two.

[@sledgeHammerRulez]

Hi, interesting video. What is the status or your findings with those shellys in your wall one year later (before I convince my wife we need to smart or installation)?

[@diyconnectedhome6102]

Still going strong! Even through 2 major hurricanes with lots of power surges. I have never had a problem with any of them.

[@diyconnectedhome6102]

Over 3 years now and still going strong.

[@dnanton72]

Can I install it without the white wires?

[@fastquack8578]

No. The Shelly 1pm requires a white neutral wire to function.

[@yeplol1367]

So, when you switch the light off at the wall switch, light goes off. Then you switch the light on via the Shelly. Switch position is in off, do you have to switch on and off at the wall switch to turn off the light then?

[@MrBrandenS]

Yes. They have different modes that you can toggle in the software.

[@RussSchampers]

it's completely up to you. There are enough options in the menu you get to decide. One option would allow you to turn the light off by just flicking up. A different option allows you to enforce the physical "up" position is on and "down" is off. If you select the latter option you would have to flip the switch up then down again. I personally went with athom smart switches (come pre installed with tasmota) to avoid all that but I am looking into these shelly relays based on a friends suggestion. Whether you go smart switch or smart relay you're going to have fun fitting the stuff back in the box :)

[@anandputube]

Can you please share the wire connectors you are using? I want to order from amazon but not sure how to search for them.

[@stillpointx2623]

He uses Wago www.wago.com/us/c/wire-splicing-connectors

[@TecHouTX]

Not the recommended way to connect these devices. The Manufacturer outlines "L" goes to hot and "LI" goes to hot side of switch. Not sure your results but wanted to make sure viewers understand you are explaining outside of recommendations. One would assume "L" and "LI" to be a power bridge but I cannot confirm as I have not disassembled any. Your method also increases wire density in box.

[@diyconnectedhome6102]

All 37 light switches in my home that I have installed this way work perfectly.

[@tonyhwang3888]

Makes me nervous watching this video.

[@tonyhwang3888]

Wouldn't it be easier using staraded wire with end tinned with solder?

[@diyconnectedhome6102]

Probably

[@davidbeiler6364]

does electricity need to be off first?

[@diyconnectedhome6102]

yes

[@khrisjay5253]

Amazing to me this guy has not electrocuted himself or burned his house down.

[@vladmirputin7139]

These devices are designed terribly. There is no reason I should have to feed the device with 2 hot wires, and send another hot wire to the switch. It should be 1 hot wire to the device, and then a wire from the device to the switch, and a wire from the switch to the device. My gang box looks like a fucking abomination right now. Terrible, terrible design.

[@neil12011]

Lol