SHOCKING RV Info For Single Axle Trailers!!! + Bonus Footage

[@michaelgreene7385]

Every person who has an t.v. trailer need's to see this video. Thank's for bringing attention to this VERY important fact .It's something that everyone should know, but, probably doesn't. Thanks for the information, and bringing it back to light. Great video. This information comes with every hitch, ,,but, who reads that , we all should, but don't.

[@davesrvchannel4717]

thanks Michael!!

[@31186dan]

Great video. We have a single axle camper and people look at me like a have 3 heads when I say I don’t run a weight distribution hitch. The marketing for these hitches has made people think it is irresponsible or unsafe to not use one. I’ve tried to explain exactly what you covered in the video and people think I’m just lazy or don’t care about safety. Trailer pulls fine without one.

[@HAHA.GoodMeme]

this guy knows more about towing than most of youtube. Thanks

[@davesrvchannel4717]

Thanks a bunch!

[@Berrypancakes229]

@@davesrvchannel4717 we’re thinking of buying a 20 ft Geo Pro with single axle . We will tow it with a ford 150 eco boost 3.4 . We have a weight distribution hitch. I don’t know what the geo pro axle are rated. Would it be ok with a WDH?

[@jamesthompson9999]

Great information. I realized all the problems of single axle campers after buying a brand new one as you did. I hope anyone thinking about buying one sees this video before they do. My tow vehicle is a Ford F250 so don't need weight distribution my solution was to keep the load in the camper light and upgrade the tires and axle as you did.

[@harrelremmer5424]

I have a 20 ft 5th wheel camper. I removed the 3500# axle and replaced with a 5200# axle with the correct leaf springs also, axle came with bigger brakes and went from 5 lug 14" wheels to 6 lug 15" wheels. it was a drop in change out very easy. just rolled out old, and rolled in new. have been very happy also gained 2" of ground clearance

[@davesrvchannel4717]

we also increased tire size and went to a load D. There is no such thing as overkill when it comes to your axle. 3500# was the heaviest I could get, due to our width of RV

[@harrelremmer5424]

I have a friend that's a pro welder and we shortened mine with an inter tube for added strength.

[@RealRocdad]

@@davesrvchannel4717 Dave you can get a 6000 lb axle at right width, with springs and 3 wheels and tires for $650 online, I actually went 2" wider and tires now line up with the plastic fenders perfectly and gives me a wider more stable stance... here is a 5000/5200 lb axle for $300 thetrailerpartsoutlet.com/5k-5-2k-dexter-trailer-axle-5000-5200-lb-idler-6-lug/

[@MYTOYMAKERZ]

I have been towing RV's for over 5o years now of every type imaginable. Yes using an equalizing hitch on a heavy duty tow vehicle will cause issues among other other things also. I had started to post a comment when you had your last video about your axle but it became to long of a comment so I deleted it. When ever the tongue weight is posted you can almost be guaranteed that you have to add that weight to the trailers actual dry weight. The way some manufactures post their weights can be very misleading in this regard so always ask the trailer sales place to clarify this. Plus when they say dry weight do they mean as is standard equipment or do they include options like propane = battery = microwave oven - anything that is an option that is added to the trailer after it leaves the factory. Your trailer with its limited capacity is just plain nuts and you should beadle to back on this for the problem. In 1974 I had the same issue with you almost 46 or so years ago so the manufacture after a year offered to give me a new heavy duty axle if I installed it so I took them up on it. They paid shipping to my door. To use an equalizing hitch on a heavy duty vehicle is something the trailer dealership should have warned you against doing. I don't care how much weight is in your heavy duty tow vehicle - its going to sit lower to some point simply because they are designed to carry more weight. Also your hitch equalizing hitch was not set up properly and you may have used to heavy duty of bars. You always take a measurement of your tow vehicle before hitching up your trailer once the trailer is added take the measurement same place again. If the trailer causes your tow vehicle to squat more than an inch its is OK - if it doesn't' drop down at all it is OK. But an average 1/2 ton truck or a SUV etc. might drop lower and need an equalizing hitch. I say may because you want to maintain at least a minimum of 10 percent - 15 percent on the tongue ideally 12.5 percent is perfect. The dealership can clarify what I am saying but to each their own. It normally takes me anywhere from 1-2 hours to correctly setup a equalizing hitch so that everything is setup correctly for the tow vehicle and trailer to tow at its very best regardless of your safe speed and to get the best ride out of the 2. Your axles are meant to flex a bit notice I said a bit other wise they will snap under severe conditions such as railroad tracks. But if your have a limited or the wrong axle such as your and the one I mentioned I owned this is just plain crazy and the manufactures need to be called on this mistake of being cheap. What you had what is called a drop axle from either a manufacturing defect or a manufacturing mistake period. People need to be educated in regards to how to setup a equailzing hitch properly and not totally rely on the trailer dealership to do it right - because they most don't even have the proper employees to do it right and they don't care anything but selling trailers. Now it doesn't matter if its a single axle or a dual axle you can still have one or both axles on a dual axle trailer go bad. Even heavier duty axles go bad with time. But if the axle is of the correct weight and it drops you can have it reset at most frame shops. they chain down both ends of the axle to the floor and use a heavy duty jack that is put under the center of the axle that pushes up on it thus putting the proper bend in it. Some brand new trailers have axle issues other than drop axles. The trailer axle or axles may have to much of a bend in them thus wearing tires out - or not enough of a bend in the center also causing abnormal tire wear. Just like alignment of a car or truck trailers can also be out of alignment and their axle or axles need to be reset or they are out of alignment at the leaf spring area. The axle components do to wear such as the shackles - leaf springs at the bushing and other things just plain wear out and need to be addressed - repaired. I am going to ask this but what made you think that you needed to use an equalizing hitch to begin with? Is this something you had done in the past or did you just decide to play it safe thinking this hitch was needed? There is not one thing wrong with a single axle trailer period but many people have this misconception - oh my if I have a blow out its going to cause my tow vehicle to flip or and or the trailer will. No it will not. I blow out on the rear of your tow vehicle is one if not the worse blow out to have because it causes your vehicle to go side to side at least if it is a front tire you still can steer it. If a trailer tire on a single axle blows it will just follow the tow vehicle and come to a stop providing you understand what will happen. A dual axle trailer acts in a similar way as a single axle trailer although you will not feel it as much but the blow out can cause the other tire on the same side to become over loaded over a short distance and you could have another blow out. I believe in good trailer tires and the ones you have on your trailer are some of the cheapest tires I have ever seen. If they were on my trailer I would spend the money and purchase Good Years or another brand made in the U.S. not China period. Yes you over loaded your trailer with the equalizing hitch but you would have over loaded it just by adding most anything to your trailer even by not using the hitch and caused the drop axle. So don't blame it on you using just the equalizing hitch blame the manufacture and let them know about this issue plain and simple. Like you stated had you loaded just your cloths =- food - dogs food and so on it would have still been over loaded. So the things you added to the trailer and the hitch it was really over loaded. It was something just waiting to happen so be careful you can still over load the new axle if you again use the hitch. But its the tires that concern me more because they are a time bomb just like your axle. I would recommend Good Year Marathon tires or another brand and go up a size and go up a weight rating such as a true 4 ply tire or an E rated tire. Everyone should check to make sure you don't have Chinese made tires on your trailer if you do the manufacture is cutting cost same with an under rated axle and care nothing about you period. I am sorry for the long comment but I pray this helps just somewhat people to understand even more than you video. Thank You a new subscriber oh an old subscriber at that at 74 years old and still towing my 44 foot fifth wheel back and forth each season 1,280 miles each time. Cheers P.S. I will reread this tomorrow and if I made to many mistakes I will delete it. I am finger typing on my phone with a broken finger. I am also a retired Mechanical Chassis Engineer for 44 years.......

[@davesrvchannel4717]

Lots of great points Lunchbox. To answer some questions. I already had the hitch, so I thought it would do more good than harm. Truth be known I do miss using it, as it did cut down on sway (which is minimal) and it cut down on what I refer to as bounce as you go down the road and go over a bridge or road pavement change. I upgraded tires way before the axle issue. I went to multi ply with E rating, and I also went from 13-14". I did call manufacturer about axle, you can imagine their concern, nonexistent .

[@crv20051]

Very important and helpful video, thank you. This is another reason why it is a good idea to stay at 80-85% of GCWR of your vehicle: the total weight of trailer, payload (including tongue weight) and tow vehicle should be, ideally, no more than 80% of the GCWR, max 85%. We need to be able to stop what we pull... As you say, good tires matter!

[@davesrvchannel4717]

"we need to be able to stop what we pull" I love it!! You are very correct.

[@michaelmondazze9838]

Thanks for the picture. Makes it easier to understand for dummies like me.

[@davesrvchannel4717]

I may be doing a video soon related to this topic. Lots of bent frames, axles and leaf springs breaking recently. My thoughts is related to weight distribution hitch

[@ivechang6720]

OMG so freaking important!!! You are a wonderful and helpful person looking out for your brothers and sisters. Thank you ♡ive

[@grandmapatty1493]

It is near impossible to have everything all figured out before making the right choice in purchasing a travel trailer. I'm glad you helped me understand this all before I make a wrong choice.

[@Normambo]

Two thumbs up! Very revealing information. Really brought a whole new perspective on things. I used to have an RV trailer with what you call a weight distribution kit. I'll certainly keep in mind many of your findings for my next purchase considering my current vehicle. Thanks for sharing

[@johnmohanmusic]

My own anecdote: Back in the mid to late 1980's I played trumpet for, and was music director for one of the touring Shrine Circuses. We traveled about 35,000 miles a year throughout the western United States and western Canada (it was a BLAST!). In 1987 I bought a Terry Resort 31ZB basement model travel trailer for about $13,000 new. It served me well. Being the Resort model it was at the lower end of the build spectrum, but in a way that was an advantage because weighed about a 1000 lbs. less than a similar sized high end model (such as the straight Terry model). BUT: I was blowing tires every few thousand miles. Turned out the 14" (yes, 14 INCH) wheels and tires were WAY overloaded. And the axles warped on it. I went to the Fleetwood factory and under warranty they replaced the tires and wheels with 15" ones of the proper load capacity and replaced the axles and springs with thicker ones. Granted I was doing 35,000 miles a year, but hey, this means that all the other people who bought these for vacation purposes were traveling around with severely overloaded tires and suspensions on the things. Not cool.

[@davesrvchannel4717]

isn't it crazy how under warranty they gave you correct tire size? They knew they didn't want to keep replacing them so they did the right thing. Of course it should have come from the factory that way.

[@handicamper101]

this is what i love about youtube. thanks for the info. i just got a small single axle camper. great vid my friend

[@davesrvchannel4717]

Great to know it was of some help, and saved you about $200-400!! Keep in mind, if you have small pulling vehicle, you still may want to consider, if not you should be good to go. Happy trails!!

[@HAHA.GoodMeme]

It seemed like there was no real reason to upgrade axle rating for my use case. Now I will get upgraded axles in all my trailers. Great video thank you

[@twatson6252]

I have a little Toyota motorhome and it is very light in the front end. I pull a 5 x 10 enclosed trailer with a a 900 lb load. I added one of these equalizer hitches and it is perfect. Throws more weight on the front end so the brakes actually try to work and also on the trailer so the trailer brakes also work and help out. I love it. Solved a major problem I had.

[@davesrvchannel4717]

Light truck +heavy trailer its great to have a weight distribution hitch. Heavy truck + Light trailer its a NoNO

[@fearmac]

Great information there that everyone should have and I don't even own an RV!! Seriously no matter what you're pulling behind you this is very important to know.

[@louisaloi9178]

It's everyday Joe's like this man that carry weight with me(no pun intended)I too own a small single axle travel trailer and luckily my truck driving background with weight distribution really helped in my case.I use mine as a 3 season cabin on wheels where after Easter take it out of winter storage and live in it til mid October then put it back in winter storage.From storage to summer site and back truck and trailer is empty weight due to same limitations.I knew this but apparently not many do he's doing a good thing with videos letting people know what they should know if they use their trailer for travel with all their stuff.Is amazing how quickly it adds up,I bring my stuff in van in early May in separate trip to avoid this issue but know I'm an exception.Thanks for letting others know what they should on a critical thing like this.👌

[@derrellreed6369]

Thanks very helpful glad people like you are still around.

[@davesrvchannel4717]

thanks a bunch, I really appreciate it!

[@rcalzadilla]

Shocking for sure and very educational. RV/Trailer tires are another shocking subject for me. Thank you very much.

[@davesrvchannel4717]

I need to get a little more educated myself to make a video about tires, great subject.

[@Scott_From_Maine]

I'd never thought about it but it makes sense. It would be interesting to put the trailer on a commercial scale and see the difference in weight with the weight distributed vs not.

[@williampenn9866]

Great advice. I feel same as you spoke, that for light vehicle a distribution hitch is a good idea, but heavy pulling vehicle and light trailer are not a good mix with the hitch.

[@rb2whrider9836]

Thanks just bought a single axle myself. Pulled it 1000 miles with no problems. I did ask those questions, I intend to review my trailer spec's. Thanks again and I look forward to more info!

[@dinohicks7959]

This is GREAT information! I have been shopping for a single axle RV since I own a small SUV that has a wt. limit of 3500 lbs. so NOW I will not use a disturbing system and I will be sure to look for an 3500 lb. axle, before I buy. THANK YOU for sharing!

[@LeisureTimeLarry]

Please be careful and mindful with your upcoming purchase. You often can't just go by the advertised maximum towing number for your vehicle. You need to find and work off of the GCWR (Gross Combination Weight Rating). This is the MAX that the vehicle and any trailer can weigh COMBINED legally per the manufacturer. Ex. Let's say you have a 2017 Ford Escape, 4wd with a 2.0L Ecoboost engine. That configuration has a max listed tow rating of 3,500 lbs. (That means you can never have a trailer heavier than that.) But, Ford lists this vehicle as having a GCWR of 7,639 lbs. The curb weight is listed as 3,765. 7,639-3,765=3,874 lbs. available in the combination for the trailer weight, people, gear, the dog, etc. If you had a trailer at MAX of 3500, that leaves you with a MAX of 374 lbs available in the SUV. These are maximums with proper weight distribution on all axles and wheels, and anyone who is anyone recommends a target of no more than 80% of maximums. Good luck to you. Happy, fun and safe travels!

[@bryanorosco6440]

I tried to pass the info in this video to an RV forum I used to belong to and was locked out of the post with admin telling me I was giving the wrong advice and no way to respond. I quickly left that forum. THANK YOU for your great advice and doing the research as I myself do tow a single axle with a truck that is loaded down and am sure if I didn't find this video I would probably be doing exactly what u had to

[@davesrvchannel4717]

As you can see in comments and some were so hateful I had to delete them. Many folks are closed minded and have no desire to accept what they’ve always thought to be best, can actually be worst. This lesson cost me about $700 in tires and axle. Glad to save others from the same issues

[@marlafrydman3226]

Down to earth .... great information ....salesman never told me about the weight problem .... thank you

[@Nonplused]

Good points. Should also mention that you want about 10% of the trailer weight on the tongue or stability issues can arise.

[@k.r.v.4219]

With a weight distribution hitch, most of the hitch weight is sent to the front axle on the to vehicle!! That's the way the mechanics in the system works, IF adjusted properly! The only way to add most of the weight to the trailer axle is to add stuff towards the rear of the trailer! I have found all this out with the help of portable vehicle scales under all six wheels, while loaded and moving all the stuff around with a distribution hitch. If you adjust the hitch to the extreme is when you add to the rear axle! But at that point you will take too much off the hitch! Which is supposed to be at 10-20% of trailer weight! I found that if you tow vehicle is rated for 7,000 lbs like mine is, if your trailer weighs half that or less there is no need for a distribution hitch! Unless of course you want to max out the gw of the trailer. That is when you will need a distribution hitch to remove some of the weight off the trailer axle and send it to the front axle to the tow vehicle. A busy and I spent hours doing this with the GD industrial low profile portable scales like the State Police use! This was after I also discovered exactly what you had! I was wondering how a manufacturer could use an axle that is not rated for all the weight! Even though I suspected the answer they gave you about tongue weight! Still seems very penny size and dollar foolish! Just how much does a 3,500-4,000 lbs rated axle cost over a 3,000 lbs one?

[@jmb-cm7mr]

I have a 1969 #3500 Trailer that had a drop axle that was #3000 we changed the axle out to a #5200lb axle and gained ground clearance, we put a WDH on because the trailer felt like it might tip over when we would go around a corner the hitch solved the problem now it doesnt feel like it will tip over pulls much better.

[@davesrvchannel4717]

I suggest and prefer a WDH whenever possible. My issue was too much weight in vehicle, that added back to the RV. I am envious over your 5200# axle, I couldn't get one for mine.

[@arocketgal]

I have to say this was AMAZING information. I can't begin to thank you enough. It is brilliant! It will inform my next purchase. Thank you so very very much!!!

[@johndahl8530]

We were told the weight distribution was to level trailer while pulling. My 2500 chevy truck with ATV loaded, with a generator. extra fuel and water I added two 6-volt batteries to the trailer, larger propane bottle plus all the stuff I would need if we had a major breakdown. ie floor jack, ax, shovel, 50-foot chain, etc, etc, etc . My axle is now bent as well. I'm looking to upgrade now

[@davesrvchannel4717]

if you have small single axle RV, and pull with 2500 you'll likely bend any axle you can put under it, if you use the WD hitch. Especially with all the extra gear.

[@claireclaire7504]

Great explanation! Thanks! Wow 2000 miles on those tires! You can really see the wear!

[@MarkfromArizona]

I know I just came across this video 5 years later but I can relate! My trailer is a little longer than your but noticed one tire kicking out. I had 3 AGM batterie's on that side for solar. I should of known better, with 210 lbs. on that side. I too am upgrading the axle to a 3500 lb. axle. I since then replace batterie's with Lithium but yes, the factory puts the bare minimum in these trailers. Very good video ... Thank you. P.S. I to use a weight distribution hitch but might reevaluate .

[@davesrvchannel4717]

The only things I changed was going to stronger axle and no longer using the weight distribution hitch. Years later, still no issues

[@MarkfromArizona]

@@davesrvchannel4717 Ill be going through your channels videos.. looks like a wealth of info. P.S Even thought about replacing with a heavier axle but then would of had to get lager wheels and tires... cost goes up.

[@davesrvchannel4717]

@@MarkfromArizona thanks for watching and great comment. I appreciate it!!

[@alanieloveyoutoosomuch4137]

Thanks Dave... I hope you continue to share your experiences.

[@t.c.3027]

Thank you very much for this info! DOT could possibly bust us good or even ins. companies in the event an accident takes place due to this! Thanks once again!

[@jebsmith323]

I love the little driver's face!

[@juanitabrown9602]

I finally subscribed after watching more than a few of your excellent videos. Thank you for this alert. OMG, what important information!

[@davesrvchannel4717]

thanks Juanita! Keep in mind this mainly applies to heavy vehicle and light trailer mixture. In most cases its best to use the weight distribution hitch.

[@cekiert]

They don't build them them the same these days. I'm glad you found this out without injury. While traveling at a steep incline the rear axle is overloaded. Doesn't matter if you have a wieght distribution hitch. The manufacturer stiffed you. I'd assume your RV sleeps 4.

[@davesrvchannel4717]

Glad it went safe too. It sleeps 2 adults and one small dog. I never heard or read what manufacturer thought it sleeps, probably 3, but they'd have to be small

[@raycornell5102]

We weigh our RV at a CAT scale which provides the weight on each axle. We always have it weighed with the weight distribution system in place. We have always been comfotably below the weight ratings for both the RV and Tow vehicle.

[@richardball9116]

I tow a single axle R Pod with a 08 Toyota 4 Runner V6 . The R Pod has the 30 gal fresh water tank located aprox 36" behind the trailer axle along with the 6 Gal water heater.That's about 280 lb that cant be changed except for simply draining it.If Forrest River would have placed the tank closer to the hitch some of the weight could be transferred to the tow vehicle thru a WD hitch .I would not tow without a WD hitch and a sway control device . I've had the tail waging the dog too many miles with no way to correct the problem. I think safety first is the best plan. Good video Dave , I thought R Pods were the only ones with the water tank problem.

[@28emmachapman]

Very good info Dave. Thanks. I do have a single axle and pull with a E350 van and haul about 1000 lbs in the van. Never used a distribution hitch but do have a sway control bar which works great!

[@davesrvchannel4717]

thanks Randy. I have never used a sway control bar, so you just helped me. I have E-350 with 1,000 lbs also. Thanks again!

[@28emmachapman]

I think it was less than $30.

[@31186dan]

A good experiment would be to weigh your axles at a truck scale- with and without a WDH

[@jcoun9792]

Dave,, you can modify that axle with a truss rod that might drop about 2 to 3 inches in the center of the axle, and is welded to the axle ends just before the hubs, and increase the weight cap by about 500 lbs. It will look like an upside down roof truss and have a block welded between the axle center and the rod. The ends need to be slightly flattened, and conform to the curve of the axle pipe for a good strong weld, but it will stiffen it up so it won't bow and let the tires roll at an angle.This will help the tire life as well. Simple mod that works. With the tires running straight up, it will take the side stress off the wheel bearings, and increase the bearing life as well. No real need to replace axle if done before damage is done to spindles.This is a simple inexpensive preventative mod for such units. If you understand the stress it would take to stretch that added rod, you'd know what i mean, just reading this, which I think you do. By the way, that 500 lb estimate is a very conservative number with a 5/8" steel rod.

[@davesrvchannel4717]

I totally get what you are saying. I play guitar and do some repairs, and guitars have a truss rod in the neck, so I get it. Fantastic idea! Thanks for sharing!

[@fredwilson9113]

That's some fine business right there. Thanks for sharing this information this is the first time I've seen anything like it on KZbin.

[@judithneeley5229]

I'm so glad I watched this video! You explained everything in such a way I could totally understand what you were saying. Thanks for the information! I learn something new every day, and am grateful to have this info before I buy and load up a trailer and my truck.

[@davesrvchannel4717]

Judith Neeley thanks for great comment and watching. Glad we could help

[@judithneeley5229]

You are welcome.

[@deberryfh]

Absolutely top notch video. Duel axel trailers could be overloaded too. Good job of explaining what could be complicated. I appreciated that you consulted experts,

[@davesrvchannel4717]

thanks for taking the time to write. I appreciate your kind words

[@makoreyflorida6528]

buddy your info just saved me a bunch of monney. my truck is heavier than the rv. people just keep telling me to buy a weight distribution hitch.

[@davesrvchannel4717]

glad I could help!

[@wsj3bill]

Thank you so very much for the info... Since I am just now seeing a bit of "bent axle" wear I will quit using the weight distribution hitch and see how things go.

[@bobnelson9468]

Right on Dave. Chinese stock tires are also a liability. Bought new for our 2015 TT from Discount Tire before hitting the road last year. Zero flats!

[@davesrvchannel4717]

great call!! I went up a size from 13"-14" and I also got load E rated. Thanks for watching Bob,,,Happy Travels to ya!

[@dustykatz2744]

Love the way you illustrated this information for us.

[@MYTOYMAKERZ]

Did I say that I really enjoy your excellent channel if not I should have. Very informative with great information. I love watching you show RV's of all types and the pro's and con's also. Thank You

[@davesrvchannel4717]

Thank you very much!!

[@phillipmorris1334]

hello from the stormy ozarks dave!! thanks for exposing another rv industry expensive secret!! tight lines and cheers dave!! glad you are having fun!

[@davesrvchannel4717]

Phillip Morris thanks Phillip!!!

[@michaelrice3021]

Thanx much Dave. O. M. G. this essential information for anybody towing. [I'm surely glad I run across this vid. Thank you again & again.]

[@josephliera7503]

Great information and tutorial. Saved me from investing in a weight distribution system. Thank you!

[@davesrvchannel4717]

I am not totally anti distribution system, but there are certain scenarios where its more bad than good. Thanks for watching!

[@nomoneynomad4171]

Great info! When I was hauling I had new empty trailers and empty truck bed etc. never thought about loaded trailer changing the dynamics. I wonder if you could have fit a 7k axle under there. Glad you got it fixed. ROFL on the blooper reel!!!! I am going to start keeping my bloopers and making them into a funny video by themselves.

[@joemasello519]

You really have my attention here! I'm crawling under my 30 foot to get my axle ratings and stopping at the next truck stop that has scales. I'm only going to weigh the trailer axles first with the weight distribution connected then I'll disconnect the w.d. and rescale.

[@davesrvchannel4717]

great idea Joe, Hope you have great news ahead.

[@joemasello519]

Dave & Muppy It will be about a month but I'll post the results here.

[@laserracer6]

Great info and vlog Dave..your info is gonna save some people some real bad damage..way to go my friend..... the way the tires lean out at the bottom is called negative camber..not something you ever want on a trailer...i would sooner have a root canal ...lol..lol

[@davesrvchannel4717]

I will miss having the distribution kit on, it does make for better pulling. Thanks for your comment Laser!

[@davidmatt904]

I agree you should never use a weight distribution hitch no matter what your vehicle is or how light your tow is on a single axil trailer if your trailer weight and axil rating will be the same .

[@dougmac8904]

Nice video. I built my own camper and put it on a tandem modified boat trailer. It holds the camper well. It started on KZbin at mac136 camper build. I'm going to put on an up date soon

[@davesrvchannel4717]

let me know when you get it done and uploaded and I will binge watch,,thanks!

[@topcrust7326]

Thank you , thank you again , so simple and so smart !!! Thanks for an honest explanation!!!

[@OldMeanGeezer]

They don't tell you, because the VAST majority of the dealers DON"T KNOW themselves! Most are just pushing a product and know almost NOTHING about what they are selling!

[@auroranite]

Great info and Yes none of the sales reps Ever discuss. They don’t know, need to watch your KZbin channel. I think the blooper shot and your response is a hoot. You should have kept filming adds to the show. Tks

[@billthomas9109]

your artic cooler from the other video is a "swamp cooler" which means it evaporates water to cool the air. It won't work in high humid environments such as in an enclosed trailer as the humidity level will rise and the evaporation effect quits working. This principle of evaporation is used in arid environment areas such as Arizona and New Mexico. Look up evaporative air conditioning units and you will see what I mean.

[@Flyboytr]

Excellent info and presented in an easy to understand format! Thanks

[@lambda4931]

Excellent points! Here’s something else: Going over uneven roads with a weight distribution hitch can amplify the points you made. Picture a truck nose up coming out of a dip while the trailer nose down going into the dip. Imagine the forces at play in this situation. Many RV dealers just want to sell add ons, or they just don’t know the physics involved. The answer: get a tow vehicle that well exceeds the trailer’s towing requirements. Thanks again - excellent video.

[@davesrvchannel4717]

you make some very great points!!!!! Thanks

[@philc.9280]

I pull a small forest river wolf pup travel trailer that weighs 3000 lbs. The Nissan frontier has a towing capacity of 6400 lbs so I'm 50 % of maximum. I try to load the pickup truck with any heavier stuff … generator, fluids, tools. Tows fine without any major noticeable sway or issues so far. No weight distribution hitch .

[@ednarogers5823]

great info explains why I was over heating I bet. thank you.

[@davesrvchannel4717]

it should not affect heating/cooling. Feel free to give more info and I will try to help with ideas. Main thing is maintain safe speed, try not to use air conditioning, and never use overdrive.

[@stricklandfamily928]

You mentioned the angle of the wheels in an overloaded trailer stressing the bearings.

[@sum2automation]

Yup, our Forest River is maxed out, when I did the math year's ago I was amazed... We did upgraded our tires for more load but our axle should be upgraded also. Manufacturers should be jailed for this crap, Yes we love our floorplan and we have had to pull at 85 mph passing semi trucks in the flatlands. We go 4x4 in the dirt mountain roads where we like to camp, but I'm always ready for problems now and the trailer manufactures should be held acceptable for bad components and design problems like this... Just takes the fun out of our family camping trips. So look before you buy! Thanks for the advice and very good work on the video...

[@centralcoastcamper9631]

Very good information Dave! My 19 foot Aljo has tandem axles so I don't have a capacity problem. But I need the weight distributing bars on or she'll sway all over the road. Also squats down my 1/2 ton Silverado quite a bit without the bars.

[@davesrvchannel4717]

19' with tandem, nice setup! I am jealous and haven't even seen it. Happy Trails!

[@Roubaixpictures]

Awesome information. Thank you for doing the research!

[@JimThomasOutdoors]

Good info and presented in a manor that is easily understandable. Thanks for taking time to make this video. Best wishes to you !

[@pattymck7267]

Interesting info... and I like the expression on you stick figures face.

[@shawn4101]

Great video and information! Thanks.

[@paulrobbins3362]

After up grading your axle, you still need a W.D.H. to level your tow rig if you are carrying heavy junk in the back like you said you do, so it will steer properly right? At 4:02 you said "thats O.K. if you leave it alone" and at6:52, you said "under these circumstances, should I be using a W.D.H. and he said no" That seems a little misleading, and dangerous if someone misunderstood you. I think you should update your video and make it clear to everyone that if you are carrying a heavy load in your tow vehicle you need both a W.D.H. and heavy enough axle to take the displaced weight so you have sufficient weight on your steering axle. Very good video, and good points you made, thank you

[@davesrvchannel4717]

Paul Robbins you’re correct I need to do update video. Between 6:10-7-25 or so I do express that because my van and junk in van outweighs the (keep in mind Single axle)RV by three times, I should absolutely never use WD hitch. But, if I’m using light van or suv yes I should use WD hitch. Problem with this video is there’s way too much info to catch. Within comments there’s a link to a video showing some engineers proving my theory along with info I got from Reese. Thanks for watching and comment

[@Expandacraftboats]

If you are an RVer and like water toys or fishing boats, Look into Expandacraft, a modular watercraft that stores in small spaces and converts into all sorts of different craft. Oh, and we ship all over the world.

[@lindalanasa1437]

Great info. Thanks for taking your time to share👍

[@davesrvchannel4717]

thanks Linda!

[@jamespolucha6911]

Thanks for the video, I’ve been shopping for a long time over a year now and what I found out is the RV world is kinda crap, none of the sale people really know anything like you have said and I checked out a lot of service departments at a lot of RV places and it looks like a lawn mower repair shop, I think I’m going to hop alittle longer and try to get more information before I buy, thanks again for the video

[@seymourscagnetti1413]

thanks for the great info and time it takes to put these out!!! i just bought a 2014 keystone 299ret. love it. except for the manufactures flat out LIES! ONE MAIN REASON I CHOSE THIS UNIT WAS THE ADVERTISED GALVANIZED STEEL ROOF TRUSSES. (the brochure actually pictures them 16' on center). i took a powerful earth magnet to the trusses and discovered half are actually "WOODEN TRUSSES". i removed the garnish trim around the bedroom vent to verify this. while inspecting the trusses i could see the thickness of the roof decking was the same as the ceiling material: 1/8" LUAN PLYWOOD. THE BROCHURE SAYS: "3/8" WALKABLE PLYWOOD DECK". i'm 5' 7" and 225 lbs. if i don't step on the trusses when i'm up there i feel like i'm gonna go through that thin luan. the dealer installed a new A/C. while re-doing the aluminium foil tape job around the ducts, i verified the trusses ARE galvanized steel AND they are DOUBLED to support the A/C unit. i credit the manufacture for that. i will be checking the axle and weight rating. i do know the yellow sticker says: 8,000# EMPTY. (this unit is two axle). while wood trusses and thin luan plywood may not kill you, under rated axles could pose a hazard to you, your family and the motoring public. thanks again for posting important info!!!

[@davesrvchannel4717]

I'd love to see the size of the guy at the factory that installs the roofing luan. I bet he is the smallest guy in the plant. You know they're not putting a big boy on those roofs

[@seymourscagnetti1413]

before i bought the keystone i almost bought a FOREST RIVER cedar creek cottage 40cfl. while researching, i came across their factory tour video. you would be amazed at how fast these Amish guys work. i mean these guys are running FULL SPEED with power tools set on MAX HIGH GEAR! the RV manufacturers are abusing these people because they know these Amish people probably could not find work elsewhere. very sad!!! i tell you this in response to your comment on how light the roof workers must be. here's the CEDAR CREEK link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/emPEpZqGpNeVb5I keep the great videos coming. the KZbin community appreciates them!!! RE: the under rated axles. i am a long time 40 years plus retired O.T.R. COMMERCIAL TRUCK DRIVER. what do you think the D.O.T. agent would say if i pulled on HIS scale with UNDER RATED tractor and/or trailer axles? he would say these exact words: "YOUR VEHICLE IS RED TAGGED/OUT OF SERVICE, AND MAY NOT BE MOVED UNTIL REPAIRS ARE COMPLETE!!!" (THE DRIVER IS CITED AND MUST PROVIDE PROOF OF REPAIRS AND PAY THE APPROPRIATE FINE TO THE COURT!) who is responsible to check that RV axles ratings are correct? i would suspect: NO ONE!!! what a contradiction. GOD BLESS, TO YOU AND YOURS DAVE AND MUPPY!!!

[@kquitberg4297]

Had to do a work around since you disabled the comments on your “does the arctic air cooler work or not?” As seen on tv. This is a tiny evaporative cooler such as we have in the southwest. These only work in very low humidity. 10 or 20 % humidity and these work very well. They sit on the roof so of course the water in them is hot. They can keep your house about 25 or 30 degrees cooler than the outside. They don’t work well during our monsoon season when it’s humid. But when you only get 4 to 5 inches of rain per year evaporative coolers work wonders.

[@patrickarseneault6833]

This is because the weight of the axle is included in the gvwr. Axle is 300lbs and it's weight carrying capacity is 3000 for a total of 3300 lbs.

[@subfreak1]

yes and no. In fact the WDH acts as a lever/torsion front to back to get the front of the tow vehicle to take some of the weight and not just the back by applying torsion force to the hitch ( that's why the hitch should be in good condition). So only 20% gets transferred back to the trailer. Use a scale and test it fot yourself you will see it is still an amazing system.

[@davesrvchannel4717]

totally agree its an amazing system, but in certain scenarios it can do more harm than good, as in my situation which in grand scheme is more rare than common. Most scenarios are too small pull vehicle with too large of a trailer, that is why the WD system was designed. Thanks for watching.

[@ThomasEWalker]

I see someone already said but I will add another note: The axle itself will commonly weigh about 250 - 300 pounds. That weight is not "on" the axle, it "is" the axle. It still is not much room to maneuver, but that is where the other 300# is coming from.

[@RealRocdad]

I have gone thru three axles on my 2018 17' Coachman TT from stock 3000 lb axle with 14" tires, the new 3500 lb axle & 15" wheels collapsed day after installation now have a 6500 lb axle with 16" tires, almost totaled the frame from the spring mounts hitting the frame and caused a weak buckle point. frame wants to bend inward on collapse, completely boxed frame in steel added steel plates onto frame, then boxed whole frame in steel, now have jounce bumpers and added 4" x 6" box beam across frame above axle and adding shocks on the diagonal above axle for sway control. oh and the axle is "flipped" eliminating any clearance issues...

[@riitaalin]

Thumbs up man...Yeah I've seen that famous RV squat when following them out on I65 many times. Its SAD too see.

[@wileyfox4984]

The axle is rated to carry 3000 lbs , the gvm is including the weight of the axle so you need to deduct the weight of the axle off the gvm to work out if your overloaded

[@pastorharrison48]

I have a 17 ft single axle I am remodeling. It tows like two deep freezers and a anvil chained together on a 20ft rope behind my Silverado

[@davesrvchannel4717]

LOL,,,,

[@Oblivionsurveyor]

I have a single axle trailer that is rated for 5000lb..buying quality does make a difference . My gross vehicle weight is also 5000lb..Forest river wolf pup 18TO

[@E-D-U]

You have to consider the weight of the axel and tiers minus total. In another hand when you’re driving on a bumpy road the weight will change each second...

[@deanmurray4953]

Overloaded e 350 van with shingles,pulling single axle 4x8 trailer loaded ,lost steering ,had to put more on small trailer,now having to rebuild trailer

[@nyc9993]

Very nice very helpful more than you know. Can use all the knowledge and information i can get thank you!!!!!

[@jameshaskell1073]

A couple of observations: when I towed a single axel trailer with a midsize truck (Nissan Frontier) I did so without a WDH. JUST NO NEED FOR IT! Anti-sway, yes. But no need for a WDH. Further, how much does the axel and wheels weigh? That is inspiring weight, and should not count toward the 3000 lb. rating of the axel.

[@prepared2thrive101]

Outstanding information. Thank you. Subbed you for your integrity. -Corey @ Prepared 2 Thrive

[@davesrvchannel4717]

Prepared 2 Thrive thanks so much!!!

[@bronxbrothers121]

so helpful. thank you for this.

[@sandramckinlay3424]

I would bet that you could reinforce your axle because not only are you concerned about it say snapping but I am sure you should be concerned about it bending there for some angle iron with hose clamps should help that to never happen even with another 500 lb just figuring and I have studied architectural drafting which entailed some engineering which entails a lot of math, as well as a lot of trailer experience. I do have a single axle trailer as well as a double axle trailer and I thank you for your due diligence, because I use my single axle for storage I have to be concerned about taking things out before I move it.

[@kerryloper6142]

Wow. Great info. Thanks so much for sharing.

[@johnnyiifngr8206]

Thanks for the info. Love your common sense.

[@RetiredTony]

Thank you for the great info buddy!! Safe travels!

[@robertpolkamp]

Even if your not loading your rv to the max switch to a 10ply E-load rated radial tire. It could save your life.

[@davesrvchannel4717]

very good advice Robert. I went from 13" tires to a 14" E rated. I did that before the axle issues. Lucky I did, if I would have had the 13" China bombs on there it might've been a different outcome

[@CharlieK92004]

Don't forget the water weight in the water heater also.

[@motley06]

Awesome video! Great job

[@davesrvchannel4717]

Thanks!!

[@gramtravels8755]

Thank you so much. I've very new to RV'ing and didn't know about the weight distribution. Videos like yours are helping to educate me. Thank you again. Happy Camping.