" Shunt Mod " How to Increase power in Chinese Scoots ⚡ EASY 🐱‍🏍 BuT will it Work ? 🤷‍♂️

[@pirelli77]

The trick works great, but with the so-called "shunts" you should apply some solder in the middle, not at the ends of the circuit board. in the middle the resistance is high and with more solder it gets deeper exactly there, which leads to more amps flowing at the same volts. (OHM'S LAW)

[@stefankosiorek8709]

Możesz mi podać namiar do siebie? Mam problem ze zdjęciem blachy która trzyma MOS-fedy a że mam drewniane paluchy nie chce niczego uszkodzić. POMOCY 😜

[@pirelli77]

@@stefankosiorek8709 Try loosening the screws with WD40.

[@luistorresmorenol]

O

[@luistorresmorenol]

O

[@luistorresmorenol]

Oo

[@cian.horgan]

When you stripped those wires and saw silver: that is likely tinned copper, it protects against corrosion because copper oxidizes and turns green quite easily. It's unusual to see other metals used in wires even if they are very cheap, the main other one that gets used is aluminium

[@pirelli77]

I cut off all power plugs on my YUME D5 and soldered these plugs as you showed. It is certainly a bit of work, but it is worth it. it saves space and is safer !! Thanks Pirate 👍

[@AboveAll-h2w]

I use a very small gauge wire, like the ones found on small lipos balancing wires. Then solder that wire on the other side of the board than the side the shunts are soldered too. This way it is easier to control the amount of resistance.

[@AKAtheA]

note that it's almost a chinese tradition to run electronic components at or very near their absolute maximum ratings,so is removing parts that don't not need to be there...randomly changing the shunt resistance without a way of actually measuring what you did is asking to release the magic smoke.

[@colinwhite144]

No it doesn't I've done the other way he's done it wrong you bridge solder from one bar to other not to much I've got 2000wat 52v17.5 amp battery on stand before I Don job on controller the is 45 mph with controller bridge the bars 57 mph and my controller stops coolish. It does work secret not to much solder. What that guy done is wrong it won't work. The other way is put more solder on the buzz bar and that gives more power again. When you do jobs like this it's the old saying measure twice cut wonse

[@Waltkat]

People need to understand that in doing this mod you're essentially removing the overcurrent protection for the output MOSFETs which means the electronics will no longer know if too much power is being passed through the MOSFETs which will result in a fried ESC. This is like removing the rev limiter from an internal combustion engine thereby allowing the engine to rev until it blows it's guts out through the side of the block.

[@whitecloud6383]

The Exact info I needed. Thank you very much.

[@None_of_your_ears_wax]

We know

[@BH4x0r]

these controllers don't really measure the phase current, they only limit the battery side current really, at no speed they probly dump over 150 amps stock into a motor, heck even the JP 28A controllers i had in mine did that, they had 200+A mosfets aswell

[@maxsinventions8913]

​@@BH4x0rso do you think this will increase the power I have available when I'm at speed? Because I feel like the amount of power I get in the beginning of acceleration is awesome and then it tapers down under speed. So I was thinking if I were to do the shop mod maybe I could get a little bit more long acceleration. I've already done a lot of wiring upgrades so that the motors could handle it. And also I have lots of cooling on the controllers. I was thinking also if I were to do this long-term I would put ATF inside the motor housing to cool it down better

[@Boediprasetya]

I don't know why to use an R shunt.... maybe it's better to use a CT (current transformer) for sensing the passing current

[@huntergun1446]

I'am excited to see that controller replacement! Nice video again! And one way is maybe just soldering those straight together. I think i gonna try just soldering them very good and cover them something what is good heat resistance.

[@ordoospeed]

Thank you for choosing YUNLI controller! Have a exciting race with us ! 😀

[@zz-hl9qe]

Yunli controller is better like an original? Laotie ti30... i read that the original controller is worst, have to change... ok. What is the good for ti30? Thx. :)

[@valichesu]

Doing this is basically bypassing the current measurement, so the overcurrent detection. If for some reason you have a short circuit (motor failure, one of the BLDC bridge transistors fails), then you f***ed the whole controller. Also there is a big change that you scooter will catch fire. And just to be sure that everybody understands, the real question is not if the BLDC controller will be f***ed, but when the controller will be f***ed. Because, at some point, one transistor will get hot and will be destroyed and at that point having the shunt resistor there will make the difference between a completely f***ed controller and one that could be repaired.

[@Zomby_Woof]

This a mod used on cheap controllers. Who cares if you fry a $20 controller?

[@babanadopu]

I have a similar scooter with the same controllers and 2.8kW motors. I ran my scooter uphill on only the rear motor and it melted the motor cable causing a short on one of the HALL sensor wires and causing that HALL sensor inside the motor to explode! I've waited almost two months for the new HALL sensors to arive! In conclusion, if the motor cables are shorter, they should handle more current, and also it would be a good idea to have a fuse or a thermostat to prevent cables from melting.

[@bowlingdomination]

Just don’t run in single motor. You’re putting too much stress on one motor so it heats up the whole scooter and melts it especially going uphill. Run in dual motor always and switch to eco if you want to cruise. The scooter is too heavy for one motor option they shouldn’t have even put a switch. Hope this helps.

[@babanadopu]

@@bowlingdomination of course, I learned it the hard way. Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it. There should be at least a fuse or something to prevent cables from melting

[@bocao73]

hello and congratulations does this change also apply to the kugoo Kirin G 2 MAX?

[@24cata24]

I did that on a 800w controller wich had 80v 105A mosfets. I was using an energy meter to see the difference, so i starter little by little to ad solder it went from 800w to 1400w..but i wanted more!!! so i completly filled all the 3 shunts with solder from end to end(short circuit)..but instead of burning or something i got way less power out of it roughly 550w didnt go higher, so i just removed all the solder and what remained was the 3 shunts separated but coated with solder wich gave close to 2000w 42v and like 48 ish amps, and i did a few load tests and didnt even got warm without the heatsink cover, but the thin wires i used to test almost melted. If anyone is doing this better have a wattmeter to see the results and know at what poin is better to stop. I put a beed of solder on a 350w controller to and put out maximum 750w, none of them got damaged nor heated. All i need now real life test

[@ADDTR1]

ne durumdasın

[@dancinkolas9656]

Witch Transistor( Mosfets) do I need for the boyueda controller because I added to much solder and burn some mosfets

[@mauropiccioli7532]

Good morning, I have to replace the yellow boxes I took the bullet connectors but I can't find the plastics to isolate them where can I buy them? best regards and thanks....

[@PirateWasHere]

U can use shrink tube ( actually 2-3 layers of it , or simple insulation tape ( it will be a bit more mose due to glue but it's ok )

[@TheChazas]

Pirate, I have a question, is it possible to mod the limiter cable? What I mean by that, usually unplug speed limit cable means it is not limited, so is it possible to make a on/off switch button so you can limit/unlimit via just button push.

[@-joo3033]

Yes

[@PirateWasHere]

Yes, newest controllers has extra wire to lock/unlock speed, so in this case U can use simple switch to controll it :)

[@TheChazas]

@@PirateWasHere I wonder how no one done this yet, it is perfect safety switch if you get stopped by the law. or simply handing scooter to someone not very experienced.

[@Giuseppe24905]

@@PirateWasHere Does the ti30 come with this extra cable if purchased now? If so, could you tell me the suitable switch to buy separately?

[@christopherhardman3833]

@@TheChazas have got the 5600w version and having trouble with my speed. Would you know which the restriction Cable is to disconnect as I haven't a clue with electrical stuff be much appreciated if you could help

[@Fpvfreaky]

Pirate hey dude how are you doin.? I didn’t know you had another channel . Cool stuff 👍🏼😃

[@CrazyScooterMods]

About 3:45 into the video when you show the scooter...your at a great disadvantage using a scooter made from that factory. They already overheat and melt the wires by default. The factory is just putting random parts together and they have no clue what they are doing

[@Alessandro_Tatti]

Hi Piate how can I find this silicon tubes for mt60, thanks

[@giannissalas1300]

What type mosfet wear this controller??

[@fins59]

2:00 soldering one end of those links is going to achieve sweet FA unless the links have cracked/dry joints on their pcb connections. You don't have a clue as to what you're doing, do you?

[@PirateWasHere]

Do I know ? I guess so, decreasing resistance by adding extra solder.

[@fins59]

@@PirateWasHere There is a measured voltage drop across the shunts, to reduce that voltage drop and thus increase the current going to the motor you need to insert jumper wires in parallel with the shunts. Soldering one end of the shunts will have no effect unless there were cracked/dry solder joints already on that end which would not normally be the case unless the controller was old & well used. I'm still quite sure you have no clue what you're doing, but carry on in your ignorance and don't be surprised if you house burns down because you think you know better than the person with qualifications in electrical engineering who designed that controller. Don't modify the controller unless you know exactly what you are doing or best case you will let the smoke out.

[@PirateWasHere]

@fins59 well there is no need to be mean, I wanted to say thanks for your time and willing to share your experience. I will learn deeper about it, for now I do understand it as simple idea to increase power by decreasing resistance, so increasing power to the mosfets, ofcourse mosfets can overheat and kill controller but still this is the cheapest way to increase power.

[@faustocalvo]

Hello! I have the same controller as you and I am not able to remove the board that holds the mosfets. how did you remove it?

[@marthamryglod291]

Is it possible to go in to the settings on the display and lower the maximum voltage to control the additional current? Example: 45 amp controller shunt modded and can now pass 70 amps. Controller will eventually fry. Go to settings and lower max amperage to, say, 20, and the controller is now passing 53 but thinks it's 20. That would push the performance but not by a huge amount, extending the life. Any thoughts?

[@whitecloud6383]

Would love an expert opinion on your premise. Great info.

[@marthamryglod291]

@Whitecloud I did that and yes, it works that way. I added a lot of solder to my 60amp controller and turned it down to 5 amps in the settings for the same performance as before. My 45 amp I used less solder and turned it down to 15 amps for the same performance as before.

[@a.3divina902]

Need help. I have a Langfeite T8. Having a problem with Julet Connector 1t6 pin apparently they don't do it no more therefore they sent me. A 1t7 purple 7pin without 6pin. My question is...does 7pin act the same way as the black 6pin Connector which is connected to my LCD colour display?? Or is it totally different?

[@sandorforgacs2265]

hi could you help the connection between the controller and the lcd would be interested in me doesn't come together 1 picture i want the connection between the lcd and the controller thank you

[@bigbrad9976]

Do you have a link for your solder?

[@TwoPlaya]

Can I do that on my OBARTER D5 for both controllers because is duo motors but am scared to burn motors Is it possible to burn motors like that or no

[@PirateWasHere]

U can burn motor controller or even whole scoot , extra power extra fun extra risk

[@LouiePage-g1e]

Hello buddy. I have a Emoko hvd-3 800w my controller has a R005 resistor I'm looking to place another on top to half the ohm. To 0.0025. .... The resistor is a 0.0005....question is what watt do i buy 1w 2w 3w 4w 5w... I haven't a clue can u help please

[@musikawake]

Can this controller be use for ebike since i purchased it and it does not have the correct wiring i am wondering if its still possible please get back

[@robertadamson8633]

hey pirate, i have the same scooter at this one you have in this video, the boyueda 5600w , 28.6ah, 60v, and recently my rear brake locked up when applied the brake to stop myself, and it didnt disengage, it stay stuck/applied, any idea's how i can disengage the brake and get it rolling again???, anything would be greatly appreciated...thx man.

[@LoicSantos]

Love your videos ti30❤️

[@Ioannis-vz6qp]

hi! can I ask you something?I want to put on thermal pads as you have. can you tell me what to buy 0.5mm or 1mm. one or two layers?thanks!

[@PirateWasHere]

3-5mm

[@Ioannis-vz6qp]

@@PirateWasHere 3-5mm so thick!I didn't expected that 🤔so I buy the 5mm if it's better... thanks my friend!!

[@MrAniVevo]

How can you add an extranal battery on laotie ti30? Is that posible?

[@PirateWasHere]

Sure

[@MrAniVevo]

@@PirateWasHere will you do a video how to do it?

[@PirateWasHere]

@@MrAniVevo nah, it's too dangerous for newbies and there is no good spot for extra battery.

[@hogg1media627]

i have a ebike and it came with 6 small batteries, (Motorcycle size) can i use a lithium? 60/72dvc 30 amp

[@guiterman6263]

Yes

[@elsassrider3318]

Les condensateurs acceptent combien de volts ?

[@christophefrance9437]

hi . Best wishes. my laotie es18 33.6w makes a huge noise on the rear motor i have dismantled impeccable motor. when I start in mono it has no more power in mono motor. Have you ever had this problem? controller or motor of the rear wheel I can not locate it even with the open deck? can you help me if you like? Can you send me a link for purchase? thank you

[@Blikess]

But how to take back the metal thing? i dont want destroy the mosfets :(

[@FishFish1995]

Hello Pirate. I have watched many of your videos regarding the Ti30 that I also own. Thank you for the good work. I was thinking of shunt modding the Ti30, but I already had a controller failure happen (unmodded) and I had to replace both controllers... I couldn't really find the exact same one, just controllers that are meant for the Ti30 (maybe that's a good thing). Unfortunately the wires didn't match and I wasn't confident (not having the required knowledge...) enough to do it myself. So I went to the only professional in my city that could do it... (yes, there was only one that could do it, probably one of the very few in the whole country). 70$ later and it was ready, but inside it was an unruly wire mess... Anyways, my point is that I was thinking of shunt modding the scooter, but I feel like the controllers might not be able to take it. I had heavily shunt modded a 2000W (48V) controller in the past and was it drawing 5000W without any real issues (yeah, 2.5 times more amps xD) With the laotie I would be happy if it could pull 1.5-2 times more current. At the moment I have built an external battery (soon to build a new internal one) which by itself is more powerful than the stock one. From my measurements, the stock controllers were pulling 120A (that shouldn't be the case 😅 which makes me think that maybe the professional shunt modded them and didn't tell me 😅). That translates to 8000W when fully charged 🤣 7500W if we factor in voltage drop, but we don't if we want to compare with stock 5600W. And 120A is really what I feel comfortable with this battery to output. It's a 16S10P battery capable of outputting 120-140A continuous and something like 200A peak. (If you are wondering where this external battery is mounted, it replaced the existing saddle and now is in an aluminum box with a diy cushion saddle as a lid). My plan is to build a new internal battery (because the stock chinese one really can't handle the current and is slowly dieing...I compared both batteries and the external one is much more powerful) and then connect internet and external in parallel. That was I will have a battery capable of 240A continuous (don't ask me what will happen to the XT60 connectors and small cables of the controllers 🤣, since motors mostly work high for very few seconds, I guess they won't melt). This is enough for up to 16kW of continuous power. So Pirate... I want your opinion. 1. Do you know if 8000W is normal for my controllers or if it's actually modded without me knowing it? 2. It would make for a great video if you could shunt mod such a powerful scooter, would you be willing to try it (you have more knowledge than me, I guess you could replace a controller if it was damaged...). 3. Since shunt modding only increases torque and not top speed, is it really worth it for an already very powerful scooter. It loses traction anyways... Will it be able to grip if we applied double the torque? ¯⁠\⁠_⁠(⁠ツ⁠)⁠_⁠/⁠¯ I'd love to hear from you and potentially watching a video where you do something crazy like that xD (you will need an extremely powerful battery, either built by 18650 (power tool grade, capable of 25A each) or something like my idea with an external battery (I just did it for the extra range, but turns out I was able to get more power too...)). Byeeee

[@PirateWasHere]

hi Stock battery can barely handle 100A for first 60sec after fully charge. Stock Ti30 controllers should survive stock 45-50A burst (10sec ) so no more than 3000w per one. If you need more power like 2-3 more , do it properly otherwise U can lost it all. 1) Change controllers, even to some Vesc-s copy which wan really handle 100A. 2) Make new battery on some decent cells like INR21700-50G or BAK N21700CG ( Monster power 10P will give U 200-300A Constant, so real 10 000W+) ** Shunt mod is good for newbies, very risky with no real benefits but people like it for some reason.

[@isaacogedegbe5557]

Hi, awesome video thanks, I use an Hover 1 alpha E scooter so two days ago I was changing the accelerator of the scooter, and in the process of assembling it together i found out that the beeping device was lose but before I could touch it one part it's poles mistakenly touched the pole of the display panel which resulted in some weird noise and the break light blinking and unfortunately the Scooter went off and wouldn't come on again not even charge any longer , do you have any idea what could be the issue Thanks..

[@johnzbeef5392]

Whats about BMS ?

[@ElectricSurf]

Thank you my friend. You are interesting

[@jeoffreygarcia9579]

Hello what fets model on controller? Cause im planning to buy it

[@ROMLEXTVLTD]

Can you please tell me what controller for the eswing 3600w 60v 20.8ah? Can I get a controller higher than the ah on battery?

[@PirateWasHere]

I think max 1600W

[@Antony--DIY]

Why they but these quaint of wires for the motor phases..?? All for the price....?? Can we change them with silicone wires, and what diameter??🤔

[@PirateWasHere]

Find info about it, you will learn a lot and gain way more exp. ( start with " what is Wire AWG " , " silicone wire vs pvc " . ANyway you can change motor phase wires but for sure not to silicone ones and at first I do recommend to change wire on the coils , so some whhich can handle way bigger temp. than stock one

[@Antony--DIY]

@@PirateWasHere thanks my friend!! That's why I asked you, because you have big experience and can help me..!!🙏 Next week will be here my new controllers YYK 50a (YKZ7250JG) So these controllers have thick wires! 👌 That's why i'm thinking to change the motor phase wires!!🤔

[@PirateWasHere]

It could cost you a lot actially, cuz you will have to drill abit motor shaft for bigger wires ;)

[@Antony--DIY]

@@PirateWasHere I have a workshop making doors-windows aluminium and pvc..! So don't mind about work ( i make the change), I'm upgrading my scoots alone, as hobby (if you like you can see little of my upgrade work to my KZbin channel) ! The only cost will be the wires! I just want to buy the RIGHT wire (thickness, right quality for these wires)... Maybe you can write me a code of wire and go buy some meters...

[@PirateWasHere]

This is way more complex then just change wires

[@Haiduk1985]

HI. Where is the next episode/video for this?

[@colinwhite144]

You didn't show how the bracket fits to each mosfit. It's a shiny brakets that keep the misfits in place when sliding circuit back in box the screws fix to brakets that keep misfits tight

[@guiohmg3641]

Hello, i have some huge latency with those controllers. Is it the same for you? good improvement i made this as well

[@PirateWasHere]

yeah, pretty normal for some controllers

[@MchooChoo2]

I got a massive spark doing mine. What did I touch to cause this?

[@colinwhite144]

You didn't get the current out of controller the best way is to short red and black wires you get a big spark it doesn't damage the controller. Or if you gave kcd display turn of power from middle button on display then turn battery switch of go back to display and press middle button the display will flash of and I think that will drain current from controller

[@tubingforever]

How much difference would replacing the Laotie ES18 Lite's 52V25A controllers with 52V45A controllers make on speed and acceleration?

[@jose-emanuelgoossens3050]

much diffrence but i dont know if its healthy

[@adrianjanus6750]

Hello great video. Can you apply this way to every controller? I have a kugoo g booster and am thinking of some modification.

[@ozjado]

Man im sorry because I'm sure u get this all the time but what soldering iron is that?

[@williamlelong2195]

Hello pirate, can you make a video to show us how to install the Yunli controllers please because in replacement of the JP they sent me the Yunli and BANGGOOD don't help me for install them.

[@PirateWasHere]

ask or find manuals, otherwise could be hard

[@williamlelong2195]

Yes I already asked to BANGGOOD but the video is really not good and there's no all the connections

[@bowlingdomination]

Awesome video and detail can’t wait for the next ones !! I will consider doing this to my ti30 after seeing your results 👀

[@PirateWasHere]

Awesome! Thank you!

[@opellaner8639]

Hallo habe einen anderen Controller da sind 5 Kabel ab wissen sie wo sie angelötet werden müssen

[@CAPTAINIRELAND1]

Like you i have “Godzilla” Obarter x5, Do you have any plans to do a video of these modifications to that scooter?

[@PirateWasHere]

Like what would you like to see :)

[@CAPTAINIRELAND1]

@@PirateWasHere On my Obarter x5 I have removed the deck but not removed the plexiglass, (waiting to get new sealant) looking inside I see no heat pads around the controllers, yellow box not on Obarter it is just plastic cards surrounded by electric tape, I am interested if you think Obarter x5 needs any upgrades like here & in your 1st ride video, I think bullet connector & new charger port will be my 1st upgrades

[@bladychris315]

Od czułeś faktycznie jakiś przyrost mocy?

[@PirateWasHere]

Jasne

[@marthamryglod291]

Those "silver" wires are tin-coated copper with Teflon sheathing.

[@goranvujisic8076]

Hi Pirate grate video ! I have same scooter and can you tell me how to set scooter for soft start i have 19 mods when i hold mode and power. MY is 5600w same as yours. And one more thing can i damage motors ih i pres dual motor while moving ?

[@aikizan1]

Another awesome and detailed video. I will definitely do this mod. By the way can you do the video you once mentioned about installing external turning lights to boyueda? I am trynig to do so and got to a dead end. The output voltage from the blinkers module is 3 volts and my led strip is 12 v. I have tried to place a stepup module 3 to 12v module at the boyuedas output module and boyuedas blinkers stop working. Any ideas? how did you managed it?

[@corneliucadar4]

Hi @pirate i have a burned controller on my Laotie es 18.. i need a new one..but I don't know from where.. please help me

[@PirateWasHere]

I will ask BG if they will sell spare ones 🍕🍻

[@corneliucadar4]

@@PirateWasHere thanks you verry much

[@paulhenderson1110]

I AM LOOK FOR A WIRE DIAGRAM BOYUEDA 28.6AH 60V 5600W CAN YOU HELP

[@PirateWasHere]

I will manage it Tomorrow

[@paulhenderson1110]

hi have you got the wireing diagram for it if not can you help me to fine one

[@PirateWasHere]

@@paulhenderson1110 Please aks on my group facebook.com/groups/epowergroup

[@z3roev600]

if you just solder them ,?

[@maxsinventions8913]

That would be the best option.

[@keithking1985]

Basically those metal bars (the shunt resistors) are "resistors" he's reducing the resistance. This is bad if you don't know what your doing... Fireworks 🎇

[@markcozzie]

Got any hack's or mods for Carrera ebikes?

[@PirateWasHere]

Never have it but Ebike looks " Mods Ready " :)

[@Antony--DIY]

When they said 45a to Controllers it's the max amber? If yes, how many ambers we have continues...?🤔🤔

[@PirateWasHere]

45A Constant , peak usually is +25-100%

[@Antony--DIY]

@@PirateWasHere if it's the way you say, you just change me the opinion of these controllers! Because for e bike Controllers they write 50a and 25a continues.. Or at YYK Controllers, Kelly, Saboton, and all these controllers writes the max amber and then the continues are 50% down! If you like to make a video of these, it will be very helpful!! To understand the work of Controller and difference e-bike with e scooter... Thanks my crazy friend!!!😁😁 Always helpful!!!💯☝️ From Greece 🇬🇷 with Respect!!!😇

[@tomgreysk]

Mountaine board?

[@tonyfresh1]

Can the wires in the yellow box be cut and braded together and then shrink tubed without having to solder bullet connectors on them?

[@DarkQuark-]

It could be, but it isn't a permanent and best solution.

[@angelopucello7756]

Hello mate nice video are you base in UK?

[@PirateWasHere]

Poland :)

[@angelopucello7756]

@@PirateWasHere ok cool are you able to fix a Rion bored controller for my schooter ?

[@douglascarter517]

Ah crap! I soldered them so much they joined together

[@deepboarder]

thank you super idea !

[@Robstar-m5l]

shunt moding near positive wire

[@TheRadhamanthe]

hy man , is it a TI30?

[@erpringle]

Can you do this to a juiced bike ripcurrent controller safely? Anyone tried it?

[@colinwhite144]

I thought you had to bridge the two shunt bars with solder I've watched a few videos and everyone has put a bridge over two bars or squeeze the two bars together then run thin solder along the length. Other way two crockadile clips with thick wire and connect to both shunt bars if that to much then use thinner wire and then replace with solder same thickness as wire

[@Zomby_Woof]

Overlaying with copper wire soldered to the existing shunt with increase conductivity more than covering it with solder.

[@asianadventure916californi2]

How can I make my uber super 1000w scooter goes faster

[@Neoreneo]

Good idea but the controller won't last long and with bad luck it destroys the scooter

[@9lucash9]

Co to za lutownica jest ziom? Od majfrenda?

[@mako_fpv]

TS100

[@JamiePineappleWyatt]

They're a bitch to hold onto with clip hands, I ended up using my vice to hold them with wood blocks ;)

[@mohamedelhmamge3438]

Your are so clever good job.....

[@PirateWasHere]

It was not my idea... ;)

[@Vaggelis__bo]

To shunt the controllers is not always a good idea 💡

[@pirelli77]

it is the simplest way, but the shunt has to be thicker all along the way, not just at the soldering point, that doesn't help! then the resistance would be lower and more amps can flow with the same volt, which results in more watts.

[@ДмитрийЛапа-о3ъ]

Ещё надо было усилить дорожки на мосфеты.

[@Chronoholix]

King

[@LouiePage-g1e]

My controller has a R005 resistor

[@nunoferreira4804]

😉👍

[@esiuu7973]

I have broke this controller (scooter goes down at 57v).

[@SyedShah-r9k]

Good

[@archietheproto7706]

Guess we'll never find out how it worked

[@babanadopu]

A weird thing happened to me when I got those controllers, the guys at the FLJ store showed me how to calibrate them, using those white learning wires, the front controller had exploded and caught fire in my apartment. Luckily I had another rear controller with a damaged mosfet which I've replaced and modded to work as a front controller... The scooter had that stutter when starting, so I thought the motors needed calibrating. I think the issue was bad HALL sensor connections.

[@PirateWasHere]

ohhh man lucky you ..... , I guess for 99% it was hall ... .

[@pirelli77]

if it's hall then i would replace them all. there are much better ones than the original ones. these can withstand a lot more temperature. study a few data sheets on various hall sensors.

[@jeoffreygarcia9579]

Hello man may i ask you something. What is the model of mosfet are on controller of boyueda? Thanks

[@babanadopu]

@@jeoffreygarcia9579 Sure, it's STP110N8F6, I got them from Aliexpress, a store named "L-Super Electron Component Co.,Ltd" Hope that helps

[@pirelli77]

@@jeoffreygarcia9579 If you have a boyueda open it and see.

[@-joo3033]

Its called "Shunt mod"

[@colinwhite144]

That ain't going to improve power you need 45amp controller you will see difference or the two shunt bars solder together more torgue

[@Zorgens]

Jerk....!! By the way, to solder a wire that lead high current isn't good practice. When the leads get hot, the tin will melt. The joint will fall apart and probably short out and start a fire or even better, an explosion. A press fit is the safest way to do it.

[@c.p.9556]

Im pretty sure that yellow box connection is zero difference in resistance as your mod... Im also pretty sure the pcb mod is likely the reason if yellow box burns... If you want more... just be safe and buy better equipment.

[@Matthew-lo3sp]

That was dum put the yellow box.

[@PirateWasHere]

Yes !

[@gw7159]

French subtitle please