Sides Of The Bertram Are Now Covered!

And it's looking amazing :-)! Still lots to get done but getting the sides covered with Coosa seems like one of the largest single steps so far!
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Thanks for watching!

[@2testtest2]

I think you filmed the right side. Failures and challenges, and how you deal with them, is much more interesting than smooth sailing.

[@davidneilson3508]

On the back, how about a bench seat of sorts with the bottom of the seat having a hinged access that can double as a storage area. Just a thought 😊

[@seanlathbury5410]

Ohhh I like it. Good thinking

[@andrevanheerden4936]

I also suggest making a bunker seat at the back then either hinge the seat at the aft side or fit two opening hatches in the front vertical side.

[@antoinerouchon7802]

I did this design on mine, near to perfect :)

[@pezpengy9308]

you mentioned that the need to access the transom stuff is because you suspect they will leak. i dont know the time involved but if i had your skill levels i'd er on the side of caution (and fun!) and bounce the engines into a corner and rebuild whatever you think you need to rebuild to make that transom as bullet-proof as the rest of your amazing work. some salient points: 1) your kids are on that boat! sinking = bad. 2) do the work now and all the sealing, painting, trimming, etc. gets done at the same time, in the same head space as the rest of the project. do it in spring and you have to work backward, cutting back in to an otherwise completed boat. 3) your kids are on the boat! ... not waiting in nice spring weather for Dad to finish the transom. 4) having learned so much from your Police Boat Whaler Transom video i selfishly admit it would make an awesome series of videos.

[@scottf6604]

Pez is spot on. That way you know. That would be KILLER content. TY Pez

[@Thomas_Kinsey]

I second PEZ. You could have the engines and bracket off, cleaned, and installed to your satisfaction in a day. . Why wait for it to get filled up? Plus more video footage!

[@garysouza2277]

Yea, if you suspect it's gonna leak like you say, why not just fix it now...

[@kevinfisher1345]

That sounds fine and dandy but does not resolve the main issue which is having access to that hardware for w/e reason down the road w/out tearing it all apart. Removing a panel is one, but removing that plus any knees or w/e else the panel is mounted too is even more work. Just for maintenance reasons alone, should have access to hardware in marine environment. Nor would I consider needing to do work that might not need to be re-done something fun ... that is just un-needed extra work. Kids?? Why would you have or allow kids on a boat for a first time putting boat in water for float test?

[@JonDunnmusician]

My exact thoughts: why wait 'til Spring

[@floydpeters9494]

Place the knees at the end of the metal plate then run a “T” stringer between the knees above the metal plate, that way you get the support you want and will have access to the bolts that you need, just a thought.

[@jonbrown1018]

Our Bertram 28 inboard twin engine has the knees of course mounted to the transom and a sacrificial "pretty" wall screwed to it. On the outboard bracket boat.. It would be easier to lift the bracket with the engines attached in the shop. Clean the adhesive and reseal now rather than later. You dont need to remove the engines since you have the power of 2 of them to lift with. The corners on ours have a cleat for the dock rope. I have seen some inventive ways of making it look good but it usually isn't shaped or hidden. Access to the ropes is paramount. We used the coosa as you had in your video some time ago. We love that material. What a difference. So in my shop we no longer useing any wood. Thanks, Awesome job as usual!

[@todddunn945]

Since you have to glass the port forward panel, why not add a 3/8"-1/2" strip to each end during the glass up and then recut the panel to length after glassing. As far as the aft end of the cockpit goes, I like the storage locker/seat idea suggested by others.

[@CM-ny7qs]

My 20 has cleats on the top surface not like this one with cleat under mount and triangle cut outs. My friend has an old 31 with those kind of cleats and cut out system. My thinking is to put a structural post laminated to the hull/transom. Maybe that can form a mount for a cover up piece that can be unbolted at need. Just a performance note: I love the way 20s ride for their size, but mine is very sensitive to weight distribution. If I had to do it over again, I’d make sure to try running as much conduit/cables/wires down the center and put a huge in hull airmar ducer in the center as well. I’m going through the process of redistributing weight right now, but there’s only so much I can do without massive work at this point. I’m glad to see another 20 getting new life. Great viewing!

[@phygital1]

@10:28 your mention “every time I get on the boat, you know what I’m gonna see?” Says everything about your work ethic and attention to detail. And you think about redoing the knee to fix the issue... wow, just wow!!!

[@thedoctor8381]

Yeah I have the same OCD issues...well it makes for quality work but drives my gf crazy with our build.

[@lawrencezujkowski9560]

Hello Andy I was watching your video and you were wondering how to put in the rear panel for the stern as a carpenter we use what is called a French cleat which is basically a channel that your board slips into by making it tall enough to rise up above the lower cleat you can slide it upwards and then back down to hold it in place. In essence building two pieces to accommodate the thickness of your fascia or covering and sliding it downward over another cleat.

[@hapwasner8021]

60s BERTRAMS HAD THIN FIBERGLASS COVERS ON BOTH SIDES OF THE ENGINE BOX, AND THERE WERE LITTLE DOORS IN THE MIDDLE OF THE COVERS, COVERS WERE SCREWED INTO THE LOWER LIP AND ALONG THE LIP ON THE COAMING ABOVE. I CHANGED THE SCREWS FOR SNAPS AND HAD NICE FOAM PADS MADE, TO COVER THE COAMING ALL THE WAY TO THE FRONT BULKHEAD

[@douglasthompson2740]

Can you lightly pressurize the Armstrong bracket to dry check for leaks? A temporary air fitting and blocking off any openings would enable you to run 10-15 psi and see how it holds. Another option would be to make two part knees that would attach to the backing plate at the bottom but could be unbolted in the run to allow the plate to come free. Welding small brackets to the plate or using the existing through bolts to attach them would anchor the bottom of the knee. Take care. Doug

[@bchrisl1491]

I would make a channel behind the bulkheads to allow wires cables etcetera to be fished in at some future time as the need may arise.

[@chrislangdell117]

Yeah its the best Idea. 2 inch schedule 40 PVC recessed into the top of the knees from front to back. On second thought maybe a little bigger if he decides to upgrade to hydraulic steering 2.5 inch maybe?

[@dessilverson161]

Hi Andy. Regarding the outboard mount, if you think its iffy, take it off and do it while you got decent access. I am surprised there were no knees fitted when it was converted to outboard, cut a large radius in the knee over the steel reinforcing or glass it in permanently and add some knees while you have the nuts and bolts out. As for access to behind the bulkhead and side panels, I would either install an off the shelf hatch or cut one from the finished sheet, put a 2" piece on the back over the join fixed to the bit with the hole in and hinge or make the hatch piece removable with a couple of hatch fasteners. Des.

[@chrislangdell117]

So when installing the ceilings into the boat ( side panels ) your best bet to make an accurate pattern is to use what they call a constant measurement. You still could have used the paper for the pattern but a constant measurement device is used in boat building because there is no such thing as a straight line in a boat. Everything has a radius. Use one sheet of paper tape it along the boat like you did but in the middle of the space. Next find a stick or a piece of trim. That will reach from about the center of your paper pattern to the top of your cover board. And make sure it also reaches the bottom if you slide it down touching the bottom it will reach about the center of your paper. Now starting with the top measurement. Slide the stick all the way up to the bottom of the cover board until it touches the top point that you wish to use for your pattern. The both of the stick will rest somewhere in the middle of your paper. Take a sharpie marker or a pencil and trace around the bottom of the stick and about 2 inches up both sides of the stick. Next move 6 inches to the left or to the right and do the same thing. Placing the top of the stick up against your cover board. Trace the bottom of the stick and both sides. Do this repeatedly up and down the sides all across the top do the same thing all across the bottom but make sure your not tracing over your markings from your to pattern measurements. So stagger the stick spacing for the top and bottom measurements. Again spacing the stick about every 6 inches. And trace the 3 sides of the stick that are resting on your paper each time. Now remove your paper and lay it on your Coosa board with the markings face up. Make sure you leave about 16 inches on either side of the paper give or take. Next take that exact same stick you used inside your boat to make all your measurements and markings on your paper place that stick into the traced outline that was previously drawn make sure all 3 sides line up perfect and tight with the traced outline of the stick. Now hold the stick down firmly and reach up top of the very edge of the stick and draw a line on your Coosa board using the top edge of the stick at your marking point. Do the same thing for every mark along the pattern line up the stick inside the traced outline reach up top and mark a line on your coosa using the very top edge of the stick for your marking point. All the way down your pattern. Now flip the stick around and use it for your bottom lines. All these markings on the bottom are done the same way as you marked them inside the boat. And mark each line on the coosa board. Next remove the paper and find a very long thin stick or trim piece that is flexible. In the boat building world thats called a batten. Using a very thin easily flexed batten bend the batten until it lines up with all the markings you made for the top part of the pattern on your coosa board. This usually takes 2 people one person to bend the batten to the curve or radius of all the markings on the coosa board and one person to trace the batten onto the coosa board. Its like a big giant game of connect the dots. When your done tracing the batten. Thats your cut line for a form fitting perfect pattern every time. Do the same thing along the bottom lines marked. Use the batten bend the radius or arch as necessary to connect all the lines in one sweeping motion. Now you have the upper and bottom cut lines of your panel. Ofcourse I forgot to mention when making your pattern in the boat you use the stick on all 4 sides to make your complete pattern top and bottom left and right measurements. Traced onto the paper. That way you get all 4 sides to trace onto the coosa board. Using the same stick is important. The stick is the constant measurement used to make the pattern. Using another stick will screw everything up. Use the same stick that you used to mark the pattern in the boat that you use to mark from the paper to the coosa board.. FEWWWW. That was a lot of typing. Good thing I don't have to try and explain hand lifting of boat plans and patterns. 😆

[@br5498]

Enjoy them if I learn something...I always learn something..

[@miffyleslie]

Instead of glassing knees to transom, glass to back panel which can be removable.

[@chewiepac5932]

That 1/4" stick out on the reveal would have gotten to me too, lol it's all about the little things.

[@sailingluana3037]

My idea on the the back. Put a coosa cover, like on the sides. Then, route out a large panel that you can make into a hatch held in by 6 cam latches.

[@jjmellooldscool]

Obviously, your content is GREAT but the music is perfect! Thanks for another awesome vid. I just found you this year and I have been binge-watching. :)

[@aaronwood3540]

I may have missed something but, if you're wanting to make a diagonal with one piece, just cut a groove in the back side. Deep but not deep enough to come through the front. That way you can bent the board without cracking it or having to make separate pieces.

[@danandyong6653]

For the stern panel/s can u build a knee bottom rail exactly like the sides? Then vertically relief cut the back of panels to bend them and epoxy fill the cuts after you get the desired shape/curvature. Just form half height back ribs towards the top, so as you said there would be no interference with the Armstrong bracket.. Use a 2 panel design (split centered) so they can be removed later for maintenance. Glass a trim onto 1 panel in center for a clean look. To secure bottom of panels, glass an upside down V to back bottom of panels to hook over rear knee lip. I know it sounds easier in words.. will be laborious but clean look!

[@Pickles_The_Wise]

love the bench seat idea, I'm definitely in the fix the outboard brackets now camp, got a few bits like that to do myself with some chain plates and yacht-legs and would love to see your process for re-enforcing and sealing the holes.

[@homiedeehomiedee9963]

Don’t sweat the little stuff You’re doing a great job 👍learning a lot from your videos I’m building a small skiff myself for the third time

[@wassawbound2926]

Covering the gunwales seems way better than grinding out all the glue I’m dealing with. ;)

[@soundsnvisions]

Why not 'glass in sides (and possibly top and bottom) that will have those "twist lock" studs. That way you could pull the whole panel with (4) twists. You could add some type of gasket to make it watertight. Might be more work than creating some kind of seating, since (I'm guessing) you'll be adding seats back there anyway. Looking great!! Love the attention to detail. As a 12v installer building systems in vehicle, I have the same exact mindset: "Yeah, you may not see it (what ever issue I run across), but I know it's there and I gotta address it now. Keep up the great work.

[@michaeldixon3445]

I know I'm late to the party but if it were me I would make a bench seat thats removable. Similar to the engine cover on an i/o. Then there the entire transom is accessible and you get an excellent seating option. Guess I'll see what you did as i go through these episodes. I love watching these videos keep it up

[@dgberry01]

For the back, you could create a thin layup using the top of the inside of the transom as a template, kind of like you did the thin layup for the forward locker

[@dgberry01]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/oXjRhmahgqtnmZI

[@Stoneface_Garage]

Still wondering about the holding power of screws only in the unglassed Coosa edge? (My comment from last week on this seems to have disappeared!) In my testing, repeated removal of screws from the same hole in this material strips it right out. I would be using nutserts or some other attachment method for this type of removable cover.

[@daviddickmeyer5231]

Yes, I agree. There are stainless inserts available from various sources that would be great for that. Also another option is Dzus fasteners that are used in the aircraft industry. That would be my choice as they “cam over” to lock securely and won’t vibrate loose. And yes, Dzus is spelled correctly!

[@hudsonohio5033]

Good choice to increase the radius on the access cover (even though you had to move the screws) One small hint - when you run a small piece through a router table that is wider than it is long (your smaller pieces) you should use a separate bigger rectangular backer board (scrap plywood) to keep it square to the fence and the blade. You will also use this to push the work though the blade opening. You probable got a few dimples in your pieces where they caught the opening in the fence by the blade. One last suggestion, I agree with whoever asked about adding a bevel on the top of the access opening. You should consider remaking the small top piece with a bevel and recut the top of the access panel to help keep water out. The rework would result in only a small amount of waste overall and you will be happier in the long run. Question - on the port side piece that is a bit too short, can you just add a layer or two of glass on each if the edges to take up the gap? I assume you are glassing the surfaces anyway...?

[@jakobnordin]

The song Like Sand Through My Fingers with Jimmy Wahlsteen is fantastic! Thanks for sharing his music with us.

[@boatworkstoday]

it's catchy isn't it lol?!?

[@melinda5777]

I've learned so much watching you. I just wanted to thank you.

[@TeacherBrunoOneil]

Everything is noticeable for you because of your ocd . Just like my mom’s. But it’s fine. At least you get closer to the perfection 🎉

[@mhoover]

In your heart you know you have to redo the bracket now so you'll know it's done right.

[@jonathanhinkins6215]

Hi, the storage seat configuration seems the best idea. I agree with the others, that have mentioned that. great episode keep up the good work.

[@dsmt8703]

I’d like a folding seat in the back that leaves toe space and also hides the access panel if you decided to go with one. And these guys all have amazing ideas every week.

[@robertneff5500]

It all depends on what you want back there seats, live wells or a combo of both. if you do just a bulk head you can make access ports. if you do seats or live well scenario mate it a three piece that can be removed for maintenance.

[@jonbbidwell]

glass in a top strap and a bottom strap that runs starboad to port as a mounting surface and rap the back in teak.

[@simonlee8327]

o.c.d. Andy !, makes for lota great vids for us. love your work. thanks

[@marksomers2358]

Hi Andy For the transom knees you could always make the 3/4 length tabbing them to the top of the transom and the underside of the gunnel both top face and inside face. That gives you a strong 3 point fixing. The panel itself could be full sized but detachable using keyhole slots as a hidden fixing, having said that I would also consider butal tape to prevent any vibration or rattles. Mark Ps good luck with whatever you choose to go with, you seem to have a good collective/hive mind

[@wabbott444]

Definitely recut fore port.... if you are like me, it'll drive you bonkers if you don't. Maybe you can reuse the material for the aft transom.

[@TheFeltbegone]

On the backing plate, if you have a doubt, there is no doubt. Redo them now before it's a problem.

[@arosenberger87]

If you plan on having a bench seat at the back, you can skip the covering and use the seat body as a combination of covering and support for the deck. If you make it removable you then have access to the bolts and lots of storage, plus the rear bench in the boat is the best place in my opinion.😀

[@refiii9499]

If you are really that concerned about the transom having leaks now is the time to redo. Rebuilding the transom not only gives you the piece of mind knowing it will be to your specifications with strength and being airtight. Also you can put a flip up style seat back there for future access or for say extra fuel storage for those long trips or battery storage basically your not clean things storage.

[@tbaconiii]

I don't know about Bertram. And my Bayliner has cleats on the top in the corners. But what it has that.mifht be a solution for transom access is a hatch about 4 or 5 feet wide and 18 or so inches high. Hinges on the bottom, two latches on top. The sort of hatch that has a weather seal. So you could glass in and stick a hatch in. Also gives additional storage space.

[@joelbrown4110]

Along with David's bench suggestions, if plan on fishing maybe add a waist high bait tank and live wells in the corners on either side of the bench.

[@TOOMENETOYS]

Use the side piece that’s a tad too short to make the transom piece out of and redo the side piece with new ?

[@delsloat9130]

Could you use and bolt brackets (knees) to the backing plate bolts.starting to come together nice job.

[@thesaltlifewithmichealsarc867]

Definitely check for leaks prior to adding knees For the time being build a temporary bench with supports above and below the support plate without crossing over it

[@alanhankins167]

if your router bit is lower than your job. clamp the piece needing routed to a wooden bench edge and use the edge of the bench as your roller guide.

[@Rubbernecker]

Love it, thanks Andy. You made re-think my knees on my open fisherman (a good thing).

[@gdavies6980]

Don’t procrastinate, as you’re sure the boat will leak, drop the outboards and reseal. , easier now than later, the boat is dry now, after the water test, probably not! Great videos.

[@toodamnmanyprojects7094]

Great job as usual. Remember, nothing in a boat lines up quite right. Your attention to detail is amazing. It has to drive you nuts on occasion. I know because I suffer from the same affliction. Speaking of affliction, are your knees bothering you? You looked a little slow around the cockpit and around the ladder. Please go see an ortho if this is the case. I suffered for years. They have stuff that does an amazing job. I have 2 trash knees. They shouldn't work. Every 6 months I get the shots and I'm good to go. Wish I'd had this years ago. Working on boats will kill knees. Take care, my friend.

[@williambellamy7830]

Try using low pressure air in the Armstrong bracket to test for leaks

[@darkstar18498]

If your Bertram material can be bent by using a heat gun I would consider a reverse vise and apply heat to the back. After your corners are negotiated I would fabricate a detachable (dog house) cover like those engine covers on a van.

[@gwpsr58]

For the back cover, perhaps epoxy-filled PVC pipe glued to the transom as stand-offs in areas that are not in conflict with the bolts? Then you can drill and tap them or embed insert nuts in the end to bolt the panel in.

[@hwwelds9050]

If you rework the transom then you will never have to worry about it. If you don't rework the transom then you will always have that question in the back of your mind. If there is a questionable seal and you don't fix it, it will be a problem at the worse possible time. Get it done and out of the way.

[@josephchildress9651]

If you fear the back support is not water tight. Why not replace it so that you are sure what you have on the transom. A bench seat like David Neilson said would seem to work...

[@edrymes3653]

In all honesty I prefer seeing the one panel that didn't quite work out and how you addressed the problem rather than the perfect ones. First of all it shows everyone is not perfect 100% of the time and secondly, I'd much rather see how you dealt with it. Us rookies will probably be encountering more oopsies than perfect fits anyway.

[@sumduma55]

If the transom worries you that much, just redo it now so you know it is right and dont have to do it later. Alternatively, others have suggested removable bench seats and you won't really need to worry about covering it. I dislike this idea because its easiest to enter the boat from the transom if you are in the water. You then have to climb over seats that may not handle it well. However, I have never been in the water on a boat with dual outboards and have no clue if it is still even possible to enter there.

[@imabeliever244]

So, what is the finish for the side panels when complete? Will they be gelcoated or upholstered? What would the original have been? You've come a long way and it's looking more like a usable boat every video! I wonder why people don't go to these lengths to restore a jet ski? Hahaha!

[@boatworkstoday]

The sides are going to be painted with Alexseal and trimmed off with wood (either teak or mahogany) :-)

[@imabeliever244]

@@boatworkstoday I know that teak is a very traditional wood for boat trim (mahogany too) but mahogany is such a prettier wood so my vote is that...even if it is harder to finish.

[@imabeliever244]

@@boatworkstoday As for the transom area, many people have suggested a seat all the way across and my experience is that nobody wants to ride right at the transom, so maybe build out a layout deck (3' or so with storage below) and if a bench seat is desired, at least it puts it more forward where people like to sit, as well as keeping the boat more balanced along the keel?

[@donpetrey8007]

Place a bench seat across the stern and and instead of vertical knees run horizontal above and or below the Armstrong bracket hardware. The cleat in the corner not sure maybe buy some nice cleats and tape them there in different angles and such till you see what works and doesn’t.

[@garrylegare1266]

Hi Andy, I wonder how stable the Cosa core is to hold the screws in place on the covers? Back in prehistoric times we would use a piece of phenolic board as the anchor parts that the screws would screw screw into. Just my two cents. Keep up the good work.

[@johncollins5021]

Yes as other comments. Bench seats that are removable.

[@andrevanheerden4936]

A suggestion for that little box .... why not hinge the door with a stainless strip hinge at the top and fix it with a latch at bottom beveled side. As for the front port coosa board why not butt join a sliver of coosa on one end to take up the gap as l presume you are going to apply a layer of fibreglass over the while board anyway.

[@thomasbendowski2226]

Awesome video as always! I've never been a fan of Hause pipes. I always find it hard to cleat a line using them. A possibility might be to close off the Hause pipes, reinforce the deck and put popup cleats in the stern?

[@waynepedder2033]

Put some air pressure into the bolt on transom see if holds air pressure over night.

[@brentchalmers1436]

make glass corners and fit the back bulkhead in afterwards.

[@adrickvelasco570]

Have you ever reviewed buget laminating epoxy? I would love to hear your thoughts on a buget epoxy I bought that has been working well for me. I'm doing a small project so I figured I could risk it. Marineguard 8000 is the stuff I got. It's very thick but with a bit of alcohol I've got it working great. Cures hard as a rock too.

[@toodamnmanyprojects7094]

This may be a stupid question, but why are the edges of the panels open? Is this an answer for a later episode? I'm interested to see how you're handling this set up. Coosa being a new material, I'm interested in what we can get away with. I just ordered some Coosa for my shower stall and head floor. As I think I told you before, I'm going to create a radiant heat floor for the the shower and head. Keep up the good work. One of the reasons I like you, is because you have the same pickiness about the work. The product must reflect care and quality. It's the little things that make it great!!

[@boatworkstoday]

Exposed edges of Coosa technically do not have to be glassed, but it certainly would not hurt! In my application I've done some bench tests on how well edge coosa holds screws and it's decent for non-load bearing applications. I do need to contact them to see what they recommend for finishing exposed edges though and will cover that in video when that time comes :-) I recall reading about your project, sounds interesting! Let me know how it goes!!

[@112doc]

Instead of using paper for templates for large covered ares try making battens out of door skin, about $20 per sheet , tape each piece in place and use a hot glue gun to make a firm template that is easy to trace. I cut the battens about three to for feet long and trim with a razor knife as I am fitting them. I hot glue in small blocks and use screws or thumb tacks to hold the template temporarily to check fit.

[@stevegem4155]

if I were really concerned about that bracket on the transom I would tear it out now while I have easy access to it no sense kicking yourself in the ass later and having to undo all your good work to fix it. Yes..... even though it's kind of suck! I'm more of a pleasure boater so I would put a three-sided wrap-around couch in the back the seat-back could cover up the transom and by making it removable allow you easy access and storage to that space

[@seanlathbury5410]

🤔 if I were that sure I was going to have to rework the Armstrong bracket......do it now. Don't jockey around with the success of the overall project or timing. We will wait for you.

[@nickgraham6267]

Honestly I’d go ahead and drop engines to reseal it. Makes sure it’s done right first time.

[@davidrhightower]

For the transom at the corners build them out where you can have a removable access panel. Probably need a place to screw into at top and bottom also.

[@ianober23]

Andy, next time you need to do a template instead of using paper, because it is so inaccurate, take some of that 1/4" or 1/8" luan you got there and rip 1 1/2" to 2" strips then just hot glue pieces of the luan around the border of the area you need to make. Boom, rigid template to trace on Coosa.

[@ArcticSeaCamel]

Looking great!

[@captainalex8704]

If you really believe the Armstrong bracket isn't water tight why don't you deal with it now? Pull every third or fourth bolts, properly bed with 5200 and let set for three days. Then repeat until all bolts are made water tight. It'll take a week while you tend to other details and leave your season to enjoying the water. I'd leave the transom covering panel two or three sections, each removable.

[@eglicomet]

I think that reveal issue will disappear when you paint/gelcoat everything. The dark finish against the white makes it stand out. I wouldn't let it bother you.

[@joaocarlosdalmeida]

Here's a thought about if the transom is water proof...what is the possibility of filling the back area of the boat with water and let it sit overnight to see if there are any leaks? I don't know if this is a dumb idea? Maybe dam off the area so as not to flood the whole boat.

[@kevinfisher1345]

Do not know how that boat or any other is typically done. But I really do not see why you can not glass in some support knee's _above_ that plate with a cross brace running entire length across the bottom of those knee's to tie them all together .. but still above that plate ofc. It also looks like you have lip at the bottom (if not build one) that you can also attach the covering to at the bottom. That way in course scenario will just be matter of pulling the panel off. The only difficult part will be the end bolts and where you have a couple of through holes (like at 12:33) , and having some kind of offset going back ... but does not look like it will be straight up and down or straight across either, so some kind of angled offset :/ But I am sure with your experience you can work that out so its pleasing to you. Maybe glassing in the bottom lip higher at those points so thats its level with the ones in the corners.

[@terravarious]

You seem pretty confident that the Armstrong will leak, why not fix it before you splash it for the first time? I'm a bit shocked it's not already your plan considering your usual attention to detail.

[@the_saint_1]

Just a thought. Instead of screwing in the access panels for the fuel lines. Why not just fix them in place with magnets? This gives you much easier access without the need for tools. I did this to the fuse box panels on my boat.

[@RickSettle]

Have you considered positive foam flotation behind all those vertical panels? After all the work you've done, it would be good insurance against rogue waves, etc.

[@alwaysbearded1]

Do you have holes in the knees for running wire or other things that you might want to add in the future? Maybe you have made other accommodations. I spend way too much time figuring out how to work around the limitations on my boat for routing stuff.

[@boatworkstoday]

not yet, but will be drilling those out come time for running the wiring and hydraulic lines :-)

[@alwaysbearded1]

@@boatworkstoday I figured you would. My "production" boat was hull#3 after they acquired the molds from another company so they were still working things out. Had you been in charge there would have been proper access. Hard to do once the boat is in service. I'll just need a long bit to get into the spot in the bilge where I can drill a new hole or two.

[@ascott6804]

Two questions for the transom. 1. Does it have to be completed before the float test? 2. Given the quality of work youve found, can such an upgrade be trusted if you doubt the other work? Maybe leave it till you can trust it? Oh!! The styrofoam is a good idea btw!!

[@boatworkstoday]

I'm likely going to float it before it's completely done just to get an idea on how she sits in the water, final adjustments and fitting will then be done accordingly :-)

[@ascott6804]

@@boatworkstoday gotchya. Gonna do the transom huh?? Dont blame ya!!

[@andrewsherriff1702]

instead of making a new side panel cant you just add a small fillet to one end before glassing , love the show

[@paulkube3901]

Looks to me that the reveal either side of the port box-out is tha same and the fwd knees are scant, showing more reveal?? Possibly add the difference w/some Thixo and a bit of Coosa??

[@UnbeltedSundew]

Is that wonky panel as long as the transom? If so you could cut what you need to fill the transom from that and leave the new coosa board to redo the wonky one you want to recut.

[@eglicomet]

And it's looking really great, by the way.

[@clarencejoseph2917]

What if you want to add a rod holder? With the panels there you face to cut them just to do that?

[@firstnamelastname2149]

can you build up the difference on the short panel with a glass and/or epoxy

[@markfrick6244]

I was thinking the same thing, those other panels looked to have fit "very well". So well, that 3 boards might need a trim vs 1 ? :-) In other words, joking here, the one you thought you goofed on was actually the only one correct? When is the next video again? Tomorrow? :-)

[@johnmccliment3121]

1st thought on the Transom, maybe break out a hose or pressure washer and give it a good test. :) You see it up close, if you think there's a good chance of leaks easier to re-do it now rather then later. :P Might just be me but on the side panels wouldn't it be a cleaner look having it flush top and bottom without the bottom round over reveal?

[@Adofri-Sailing]

Accordion sliding panel in the stern maybe?

[@tomharrell1954]

I don’t believe you used Coosa panels for a cosmetic kick panel. Pricey !

[@RenegadeADV]

With the mooring line fair leads in the corners, I would just take those out, replace em with fishing rod holders, put cleats on the rail.

[@Esschert]

Hey Renegade Show! Dude, wow, you get around, just like me! I've always enjoyed your own channel, but what I most enjoy is reading your comments on the many other sailing channels you visit. It just amazes me how smart you are. Your uncanny ability to dole out tons of advice (like above) when you didn't know squat about sailing just two years ago. Amazing, a freaking reincarnation of Josh Slocum if I'd ever heard one! I also noticed that you've become quite the day sailor in Puget Sound. Keep at it buddy. One of these days you'll make that left turn at Cape Flattery and actually sail out into a real ocean, hopefully morphing into that passage making cruiser you've long to be. Again, I just thought I'd pop in here and tell you that you're channel is one of my favorites. Well, right next to Boatworks Today that is. Hahaha....

[@OutsideCleaners]

Are these panels going to be glassed in? And, are they just cosmetic or in any way structural?

[@eglicomet]

Regarding the Armstrong bracket, what about half knees and a removable cover?

[@joaquimaugustorocha]

Maybe screw on knees, then 3 part panel to better get the angles wanted... Keep up the good work!

[@MrWasher74]

I like the bench seat that people are sugesting, I've got two questions for you. Firstly are you plaining to add foam for bouyancy in the voids of the boat? Just in case of the unthinkable, make it unsinkable. And secondly, all the Total Boat products you use look great but I've had troble finding anyone that stocks them here in Australia. Do your freinds at Total Boat have some one in Australia that I could get some products from?

[@boatworkstoday]

I'll have to double check, but unfortunately I think TB only retails in the US for now.

[@markfrick6244]

You made a comment that your should have filmed the "other" side given how smooth it went. Personally I prefer problems and how they are solved? It's very frustrating when things don't go as planned on 1 chance events; you called it from the start though. :-)