Chain Waxing? Avoid These 7 Beginner Mistakes!

[@trepidati0n533]

Honestly, even if waxing only gets me 50% of the life it claims, I still value you incredibly for the cleanliness/simplicity. I literally just rinse my bike off immediately after a ride (no soap, 60 seconds) and wax my chain every two weeks. That is the level of my effort and it feels incredibly good. No scrubbing chains, degreasing, etc to keep a good drive chain, etc. I do miss the occasional chain ring tattoo on my leg...but willing to give that up.

[@dudeonbike800]

Isn't it nice it's *500%+* the life of everything we've been using? And no more "forever" chemicals washing off into the environment. It would be interesting to calculate the reduction of oils & organic compounds no longer going into the environment if everyone stopped using dumb chain oils and switched to wax. We're talking thousands and thousands of tons of petroleum products annually. Crazy.

[@ShawnIsBatman]

Threading the chain over the tabs....no matter how careful I seem to be when reinstalling the chain, I miss this far more than I think that I should!! The Shimano chain direction tip was fantastic!

[@matt_acton-varian]

Such an easy mistake to make, we have all done it at least once. I use KMC chains which are unidirectional, it means I don't have to worry about making sure it's in the right way 😂😂

[@SnaxNoCo]

Did that once as well. Doh.

[@chrisbaum7407]

Been there, did that!!

[@carywatmore]

Yes it was esp about the quick link direction

[@sandro2304]

Same... the sad part is that I have done this twice... once in each bike I own.

[@jonshoesmith5339]

For those using a water bath or crock pot to melt wax (without accurate temperature control), a simple meat thermometer can eliminate the worries about hitting the right temperature.

[@sebastianm2381]

I don't even care how much faster wax is. It's just so much cleaner that I can't imagine ever going back to oil.

[@jeremyowens441]

When cleaning/ degreasing the chain it's super important to make sure that the chain is %100 dry before putting it into the pot. This helps the wax stick to the inside of the chain properly. That was the big mistake I was making when I first started waxing. Thanks for the great video Josh 👍

[@RenAigu]

Thanks for the "skip break-in" portion. Other outlets and its comments seem to present not breaking in (on or off the bike) as a cardinal sin. Like it would hurt the chain or the wax application in the long run. I of course was skeptical about that stance, for exactly the reasons outlined; when you don't really care about a short period of less efficiency, if I break it in while cycling I get that period back as bonus longevity. This is maybe a "problem" in cycling enthusiast content and its commenters, much of the headspace is geared towards top performance, while commuters, couriers, recreational and other categories of cyclists that are not competitive receive less attention and less appropriate advise sometimes.

[@gregbrown3764]

the walter white method 🤣🤣🤣

[@toddtech6587]

Great video. I am guilty of all of these mistakes at some point since I started waxing my chains with your products over 2 years ago. Before that I was disappointed with my homemade waxing blend even after I thoroughly cleaned the chains with degreaser, gasoline, and 90% isopropyl alcohol. The wax just wouldn't adhere to the chains. After I bit the bullet and purchased Chain Stripper and your Secret Blend everything works great. I don't wax my chains for more efficiency to go faster. I wax my chains to make the drivetrain feel smoother, and I believe that is what makes me faster. The only failure I have had which you don't list is having the wax get bunched up on the lowest cog on the cassette (11 tooth for me) and I thought it had somehow worn out because it was skipping. Found out later after I removed the cassette to replace the cog that there was a thick layer of wax between the 11 tooth cog and the next cog up which caused the chain to ride up above the cog and skip whenever I applied any amount of power to the drivetrain.

[@billeterk]

I get a build up between 11/12 cogs too. A toothpick through there once a month works well

[@granitestateirish6380]

I use the super secret drip between immersive waxings, so I’m pulling the chain off and rewaxing about once a month (every 1000 km or 600 miles). What I do is take a brush and some alcohol to the cassette, pulley wheels and chainrings while the chain is off the bike and in the pot. It takes about 5-10 minutes tops, and removes all wax buildup so the buildup never gets to the point that it’s a problem.

[@LeeStebbins]

I have been using your wax lube for 8 months and have converted several of my riding buddies to also use a waxed chain. I am the official chain waxer for the group. Initially I mistook the interval of meters and was using a rewax interval of 300 miles or more. I would check of wear each time with Park variable gauge and also with calipers with no measurable wear. After several of your videos I woke up and realized my error. I am now using one endurance chip per bag and rewax every 350 miles. No signs of wear or noise on the drive train. I use an insta pot and set the temperature at 190 degees F and verify by infrared measure method. Insert the chain for about 5 minutes and then reduce the temperature to 170 degrees F, once the temperature reaches around 165, I remove the chain and let it cool above the pot. On either a new chain or used I dip/shake in gasoline (cheaper than solvent) 2 times, each with clean gas. Blow dry, and then ultrasonic clean for 30 minutes minimum in the sonic cleaner you recommended. Blow dry, alcohol dip and blow dry prior to wax dipping. I know this sounds very time consuming, but I only do this once and am getting excellent results. Rewaxing is simple, wipe the chain clean and rewax. Our group of 6 riders are amazed how quiet and the smooth the drive train performs. No one would ever go back to the old petroleum lubes. You have customer for life.

[@nochancecw]

Your videos are so good. I buy your product not just because they are good, but because you guys offer service and info like this, truly top notch stuff!

[@bobsilva6222]

I just completed a 4 day 335 mile ride on a SILCA waxed chain and used super secret lube once. Chain worked awesome. I just rewaxed at 120 and 75 degree temps with no wear over about 700 miles. Love this silca waxing system.

[@user-cx2bk6pm2f]

Did Silca get a new editor? This video is looking peppier and livelier than usual 😀👍

[@peternewton2200]

10:25 wait do people thread the chain up through the derailleur and not down?

[@RenAigu]

I find it easier to go downwards too. I feel it's also easier to not forget about the tab that way too.

[@stuartdryer1352]

I always go down. Never knew people threaded upward.

[@DEAR7340]

Yeah. That kind of got my brow furrowed. I have always let gravity be my friend and lowered the chain through the pulleys, top-down.

[@trwilliams22]

Heathens!

[@raceace]

Just got my Silca wax pot and it's been bullet proof with the application and wax emulsion temps. Have been using the Secret chain wax for MTB work on a Sram 1x 12 and I'll never go back to oils ever again.Saving a $1000 worth of chain, chainring and cluster has never been easier and efficient. Not sure if it's merely placebo effect but it feels like the days of tri-flow drenched chains at the Criteriums.

[@judycarlsen7707]

As always, nothing but some good, solid every day hints to make my bike riding better. This is the reason I never miss one of these videos. Thank you so much!!!

[@Michael-fi6ve]

I see a silca video about chain waxing, I click.

[@MartinOrtega-kt5bw]

Ah, I see you’re also a man of culture

[@chefsmac6910]

When is the special SILCA engineered, wax adhering, long lasting, and low friction chain coming out?

[@StayInTheWord]

Very helpful. I just installed a Shimano CN-701 and wasn’t clear on which way to put on the link. Thanks

[@urouroniwa]

Embarrassingly I have made every single one of these mistakes except the first one :-) Particularly, I have been unbelievably creative when installing the chain. I've threaded it in ways that I'm sure are theoretically impossible. You do get used to it. One tip I'll share (which I haven't seen anywhere): When putting the quick link on, you have tension from the pully. The chain is often slippery from the wax (hooray!). It makes it difficult to put the quick link on. Some people use a piece of wire to hold the two ends of the chain together. I actually thread the chain so that the left hand side ends just a couple of links past the lower pulley wheel. In my left hand I grab both the pulley wheel and the end of the chain and pull to the right to create slack in the chain. Then I put the quick link on with my right hand. Once it's aligned, I use the quick link tool to fasten it. It should close easily. If it doesn't, then it is misaligned. Don't force it. Just take the quick link off and try again. Holding the pulley wheel with you left hand makes this very easy.

[@dianachiu9316]

Love this comment. Have never found connecting the quick link to be a quick process, but I also use the same method you do. Still tricky, but wish more folks talked about creating slack.

[@adrenna123]

One thing I add is to preheat the chain before I put it in the wax. Living in Arizona makes it easy as I just put it in the sun for 10 minutes. This lets the wax get into all the small spaces right away. You can see this when you agitate the chain in the wax. Lots of bubbles right away, after 5 minutes, almost none. I've been using/waxing KMC chains and and I wax every 500-750 miles before it gets noisy. Cassettes and chain rings aren't cheap. Better to wax more frequently than to let it run too long. Lastly, I put a label on the chain stay with the date, mileage and Park Tool measurement so I don't forget. I get the watt savings from waxing but personally, I do it for cleanliness and chain longevity.

[@Vam1500]

I would like to see a video where you take a waxed dirty chain off a bike and take us through how you clean it to get it ready to go back into the silca waxing pot.

[@dudeonbike800]

Wipe off chain. Blow off dust if you have compressed air. Rinse off if you've been riding mud. Dry chain. Remove. Put in pot. Not a lot to it.

[@troyesch6203]

Zero friction cycling has that

[@jon-williammurphy9780]

4:46 Salty liquids do not have higher boiling point. They do however have a lower freezing point, but that ends up being more of a mechanical thing interface thing apparently

[@intheknowcycling]

Josh, where do you explain the Chain Prep For Wax chart you flashed up at about 1:30 into this video? Would like to see more on that. Thanks, Steve

[@rodmarch1306]

Josh, I've tried your microfiber cloths and they are nice to use on a waxed chain. Can you wash and reuse them or should they be used once and thrown away. I'm a little worried about how the wax residue they've picked up from the chain would do in a washing machine and interact with laundry detergent. Laundry detergents are design to handle oily rags, but wax? I don't want to end up with wax residue in the washing machine or being transferred to other clothes. If a washing machine is problematic, is there another way clean them.

[@derek75116]

At 4:55 Josh shows an Insta pot he used to use. I have the same one and it wasn’t working properly until I put thermal conductive paste on the temp plunger underneath the pot. Its now more consistent. (No food burn messages) You can get surface compliant soft thermal conductive pads used in electronics that are less messy than paste. Also stir wax before taking IR temp readings because there are large temperature differences, from top to bottom of unstirred melted wax. (30degC diff in 30mm using a submerged thermocouple)

[@warrenjansen7096]

I used to wax my chains back in the early '90s. Even went as far as adding graphite to the wax for added lubrication. I was never that impressed with it. Went back to normal chain lube and have been happy ever since.

[@SILCAVelo]

There's been quite a lot of improvements in technology since then.. even in oil based lubes. Check out the ZFC data: zerofrictioncycling.com.au/lubetesting/ lubes from even 10 years ago perform quite poorly compared to the modern tech, whether it be drip wax or hot wax.

[@Manuel-zp7cl]

Having waxed my chain for the first time this year using the stripchips and wax from Silca and I can recommend it to everyone. I also routed my chain through the wrong side of the tab but it's all easy to figure out. If you can boil a pot of water you can wax your chain and over time it makes maintaining your drivetrain tenfold easier.

[@RyanRivs42]

Love the wax station & hot wax and Super Secret…use all 3. I have SRAM Transmission T Top black chains and XX1 Eagle black chains…I think these have the PVD coating as well. Does this have the same effect as the rainbow chains?? And will the Endurance Chip help at all with longevity for PVD coated chains? Thanks!

[@hal9058]

Hint for using the silica wax system: First time with the cable chain holder, get a little bit of wax on the threads of the cable end that goes into the handle. When brand new the metal against metal threads need a little bit of help and the wax is perfect lubrication.

[@RenAigu]

@@hal9058 on the other end, I do get a little messy and clumsy sometimes, so a bit of wax builds up on the threads of the handle, so occasionally I have to heat the handle to melt the wax and liberate the threads again

[@Calebyte]

I thought I was the only one who missed the derailleur cage tabs 😂

[@Macca8884.5]

Thanks for all your videos... long time waxer.. been using your super secret, for the pass 18 months on my wax chain to extend the chain life between waxing ,what a fantastic product.

[@Camerooony11]

Wow that is super helpful to know the single application longevity is around half for rainbow chains! With my SRAM Red chain I’ve been waxing and using super secret for around 5k miles, and I always felt like I needed to reapply after around 120 miles. Looks like I’ll switch to Force chains now.

[@BarePotato]

Hi Thanks for making this video. I have done all of these mistakes! Also one I got in the past is "not cleaning wax residue on small cogs and pulley regularly". If I don't clean it for a year it causes jumping chain or some weird noise! I had this more when I use Squirt actually, but probably also happens with Silca wax too. And be careful if you use SRAM you have stealth ring there so not to damage it.

[@matt_acton-varian]

As someone who uses the bag to prep my chains sous vide I always keep it in there for a long time. I would say as long as you let the chain get up to the temperature of the wax, leaving it in too long as it cools down is not the worst thing in the world. It just makes a little more work cleaning off the excess. I also make sure to free off all the links befire installing. I will bed in my race chain but it's good to know it's not imperative for training, or for my commuter where the longevity and not the performance is priority.

[@joedaniello4817]

Lot of good stuff in that video. I just checked my chain and I installed it correctly, but it was by chance. I didn't know you should be able to read the writing on the chain.

[@ronstout4022]

OK, you asked for unique questions so here's one. I'm a 75 year old recumbent trike and velomobile rider. I have a degenerative muscle disease and only can put out a FTP of about 150. Being that I have a long chain and low power, it seems that my waxing lasts about twice as long as is "recommended". Am I correct. BTW I have been waxing my chains for over 30 years and love the ability to work on my rides without getting filthy. Keep up the good work and great products. Ron

[@TheSteffuchs]

Hey Josh. Regarding the rainbow/oil slick chains, does that also apply to the SRAM XX1? what about the copper XX1 chain?

[@ajtronic]

I’ve been having short wax lifespan on my rainbow xx1 chain as well.

[@Didls-r2b]

I just waxed two of the xx1 rainbow for my MTB was planning on rewaxing at 150 miles with some drip touch ups every 75 miles. Before I was using just the drip on my xx1 rainbows it seemed to hold up to 150 miles but needed more touch ups.

[@jetsjunkie3619]

Of course. I watch this after I waxed and ride with my new xx1. Guess I’ll pick up a plain ol xo1 when I catch a sale.

[@Didls-r2b]

I decided to buy another XX1 chain maybe bronze or gold to rotate use with my already and new rainbow xx1 chain. Figure I’ll be able to compare and report back shortly. I checked out the SILCA website and they sell rainbow prewaxed chains. Does this mean they’re good?

[@Quad66]

Bumping this question. The chain coatings seems to be the biggest piece of new information here. It wasn’t clear if it’s all non-silver coatings? Are the copper, black, or gold SRAM chains ok?

[@cavan132]

Instant pot’s “keep warm” setting on high is 75 celsius.

[@packratty]

Very useful! He shows it on the sauté setting, which is very hot. I use the slow cook setting, which is around 85 on mine, I will try the keep-warm.

[@derek75116]

I nearly always get the food burn warning from my insta pot then it switches off. Really annoying. My wax depth is about 30mm, 11/4. I have a lot of trouble to get it to stay on..

[@mscohen57]

Thanks for another good training video! Greatly appreciated! As a long time follower, and even buying waxed chains directly from SILCA, I’m still confused. Specifically about the temperatures…. I don’t trust the buttons on the crockpot… so I use an IR thermometer that reads the temp y aiming the IR beam at the wax (20 bucks on home depot or Amazon) and use that to gauge the process. What is the temp (or temp range) where the chain should be immersed in hot wax, and for how long? And then, when I turn it off and it cools down… at what temp should I take it out? TIA!

[@troyesch6203]

I use the crock pot at low and take it out at max temp on low. But I use m speedwax. Not sure if there would be a difference but never an issue.

[@martimguarda1760]

is it normal for some black powder (wich i think is the tungsten) start forming on top of the chain while i'm waxing it?

[@Rippin76]

I've properly cleaned and have been using wax on my chains for close to 7 years (Squirt), but I still find a full hot dip with the Silca wax only lasts around 160 kms before the drivetrain noise becomes irritable to me. I have been using the Silca products for about 6 months now. I'm still trying to find out how to make the dip wax chain last longer. Another issue I have is with the Silca drip wax. I'm using that in between hot dips. I've found that it mostly runs off the rollers and eventually drips to the ground. I have to apply quite a bit to make sure it gets in between the rollers and plates. It's as if the rollers are super coated and not even the drip wax will adhere to it.

[@rickbeckner9906]

Hi. Fwiw, I’ve had similar problems. Here are a few things that helped a bit. Apologies if this is old news. Did you see the Silca video on how to apply drip lubes? That helped me some. Also, I agitate the bottle for a while. Finally, while hard w my ADHD, I try to go slow and use just a little on each roller.

[@robertwevans84]

When do I use the lid? Is it good to keep lid on while the wax is melting? does that speed up the process? Or is the lid only ued to keep dust out when not in use?

[@generalruler]

Thanks Josh appreciate you! hey, Has anyone tried cold wax? Rubbing it onto a clean chain.. skateboarders have been using it on metal and concrete to remove friction for decades, it seems to last for ages on a ledge or rail .. food for thought . thanks again for your integrity.

[@daniellarson3068]

Rubbing it in may not get it into the pins. Silca will hate me. I use canning wax. It dissolves in Coleman camping fuel (benzene - white gas) or even regular gasoline. You can spray the dissolved stuff on and the gas will evaporate. However, I do put the chains in melted wax too. The dissolved wax thing is like a refresh for the chain. By the way, we used to rub wax on skis and sleds when I was young.

[@silverecco]

@daniellarson3068 I've been using gulf paraffin wax too. Zero friction shows that it alone beats almost all regular drip lubes. I've tried adding arbitrary amounts of tungsten disulfide and a little PTFE, but I'm not sure it's helping that much. The WS in particular likes to settle to the bottom of the molten wax, so dubious how much is getting into the rollers. I was wondering if Coleman fuel would work. I can't find naphtha anywhere except zippo lighter fluid which works fine but is more expensive. I'm really impressed with the oz cycle DIY drip. It does seem to leave behind a clean wax layer if you give it plenty of time to dry. more buildup on the jockey wheels than hot waxing but it flakes right off

[@VDELARBR1]

Hi, What about Yaban chain. I heard they are quite good.

[@LDice20]

I know that you said that some of the KMC chains do not take wax well, and I use the KMC brand for my cyclocross and gravel bikes. Are there any other coatings that I may need to stay away from?

[@elbowspeak]

I've been waxing for a two or three years, but I haven't been paying close enough attention to temperature or chain directionality. Excellent helpful tips. Thanks!

[@timclayton6674]

Hi guys, you mention the black and rainbow coatings from KMC. Does the same apply to the XX1 SRAM chains? Long time waxer, currently using SRAM rainbow on one mtb and black on the other. Thank you.

[@Vam1500]

+1 I need to know this too. Is it better to get the non rainbow SRAM chains?

[@gwilliams6796]

I have the YBN rainbow chains, but they don't look coated (like the KMC chains), they look more like they've been anodized. Does wax also not adhere well to YBN rainbow chains?

[@joemoyer6343]

My experience has been there are no issue with YBN or SRAM color treated chains.

[@davidstaker5915]

Hi The bike shop just oiled my waxed chain, I’m guessing that I go through the degreasing process again?

[@murrays1555]

Question/suggestion for @SILCAVelo, I found that when I pull the chain out of my crockpot, the wax runs off of the upper links on the hanger and collects on the lower links as the chain cools. To minimize this, I have the hanger tied to a string with a slip knot and raise the chain out of the wax an inch every 30 seconds or so. This allows the lower links to sit in the hot wax while the wax runs off of the upper links and cool. I've found that less was accumulates on the outside of the chain when doing this. I know I'm probably overthinking it, but are there any downsides to this technique assuming the wax is at a proper temperature when pulling the chain out?

[@errz]

Didn't know KMC DLC chain doesn't works well with wax. Was wondering why I have to wax it again way before 300 km. Am going to switch it out

[@zodgzod]

The thing I was ready to complain about the first time I used many SILCA waxing gear was that I couldn’t get the quick link to close. I scraped the wax off the inner plates through which the quick link attaches and it fitted. Now, I just wipe those plates with a cloth as soon as I pull the chain from the wax.

[@troyesch6203]

No need to wax the quick link

[@zodgzod]

@ it’s not the quick link that’s the issue, but the last links on the chain that the quick link connects.

[@dr_taka]

I don’t heat up the Silca pot to 125°C … it does run out like that. I wash the chain with hot water and rub it very clean but I put in 110°C wax for a while to get rid (boil) the water and bring it down to 80°C for 5 min for the wax to “get in” and hang them up to cool for 10 min before putting back to bike. Does this sound like a good method?

[@cgatlin65]

What is your experience with KMC titanium-coated chain? I just waxed my chain for the 1st time this weekend and the ride was incredible. Thank you!

[@cycleforfitness8985]

If I have used a couple of strip chips in the same wax, then add the oil as you recommend for wet/cold conditions to soften the wax, does the strip chip negate this ....or has the strip chip been effectively used up by the chain that it stripped ? Just so I know I do not need to replace the wax in the Silca cooker for this oil solution to work. thanks, Grant

[@cstew78]

Interesting about the derailleur tab. I thread it in the opposite direction. Always have, but then again i'm left handed.

[@agent4747]

If we apply Super Secret to the waxed chain every 75-100 miles how long can we get between waxing? I wipe down with a clean microfiber after each ride to remove dust

[@Jaytas88]

HI, I have only just got myself one of your hot wax systems and have now waxed two new chains using the strip chip, it was nice and easy and seems to have worked really well so thank you. I was wondering however if you remove the wax for the center of a hollow pin chain before installing it on the bike? I can't seem to find any info regarding this. Cheers and thanks

[@novatlizrz4931]

I was one of those who overlooked the rail/tab in the center of the pulley cage until a riding buddy pointed it out after noticing the noise remained loud even after the break-in period. I felt pretty silly about it and realized I might have shortened the chain’s lifespan since it had been rubbing against the rail/tab for over 100km 😢

[@MH-js8vb]

About chain quality, Adam from ZRC told it, Rival has a ridiculously short lifespan comparing to Force/Red that have a different coating. I mean...the difference is giant! Just pay the few bucks more

[@krbndlls]

Hey, you mention that one may destroy the wax by overheating it. Could you elaborate please? I know the wax vapors are flammable and this is obviously dangerous, but I don't get how it could be destroyed if it's hot but not boiling.

[@miketaylor7678]

Hey Josh thanks for the info! How does the KMC X11SL hollow pin hold wax? Or is it just the special colors/coatings problematic from KMC?

[@martinnavarre745]

Which SRAM 12 speed flat top chain takes wax the best? What will you use for the Visma team? Red E1, Red, Force, Rival ... ? - I just waxed and installed a SRAM Red E1 Rainbow chain .... wish I'd watched this video before buying that chain. Perhaps the inner parts in contact will wear and take wax better over time. - can you convince SRAM to make a special chain finish specially suited for waxing?

[@evandillon1263]

Oddly, I've noticed shorter longevity after switching from a crock pot to the Silca wax pot on both my road and MTB. I've noticed that the chain is less stiff as well after cooling than it was with the crockpot. After watching this, I may need to check the wax temp with my thermometer and see if it is indeed 75C? Been kind of a bummer for me as I thought the system would make it much more reliable/repeatable/quicker waxing process and get the chain wax to last even longer mileage wise.

[@AntoineThisdale]

10:00 man i do this every-single-time... i kid you not. i know not to do it. and somehow, i end up doing it anyways. god its annoying.

[@timpurcell2717]

Lube or wax not sticking to the DLC coatings on some KMC chains is a surprise! What about the black hard coating on the YBN chains or the hard chrome finishes on some SRAM chains?

[@estelja]

Any benefit to doping the wax with nano flourocarbon wax powder used in ski race waxes?

[@SILCAVelo]

No, these products are not only toxic but will reduce the effectiveness of the wax in this application, so you can save your money and health!

[@diegodursi]

Thanks Josh! I've been using silca immersive waxing for road and mtb. Best method ever! Just one question regarding the wax. I'm afraid I put a brand new chain with factory grease and the strip chip but somehow at 125° is reacting, but when I turn it down to 120 it's fine. Should I throw away this wax and try to use new wax in the pot? What's the best way to clean and throw dirty wax? Thanks in advance!

[@garyoberholster4070]

Mixing chains and drives ? Can i use a shimano chain on a sram drive train ie cassette and visa versa, tganks for your videos

[@tommays56]

Secret seems to adhere well to the Shimano CG-701 and wax lasts 250 miles with 3500 miles to .5% and no issues with next chain shifting Definitely have to let it COMPLETELY cool before installing to keep thickness on rollers

[@AntoineVuille]

Rewriting a comment that disappeared: Many thanks for those tips, very useful! Is there a way to mitigate the negative impact from rainbow chains (like Sram XX1)? Quite a pain when you don't have "normal" options at the higher range... Also, you are selling rainbow/black chains pre-waxed, shouldn't you inform customers of this little "challenge"?

[@brandonh2693]

If I am in a time crunch and made a "crappy candle" let's say and reheating isn't an option. Anything stopping me from running the chain over a wood rod all directions to break off 90% and deal with the mess in 120 minutes? Or do I have to redip for functionality period?

[@SILCAVelo]

Generally if you've 'made a candle' that means the chain never got hot enough for all of the wax to fully penetrate into the inside of the chain. Sometimes people allow the wax to cool too much before pulling the chain and make a candle that way, and in that case, you can definitely just knock off all of the excess and be fine.. but if you've dipped and pulled too quickly as we describe in this video, the chain will not be properly lubricated on the inside, so we'd definitely recommend a rewax.

[@Crayonz014]

Can you make a video on moving from silca drip wax to hot waxing the same chain? I assume I'll have to reset the chain with hot water then drop on hot wax

[@maxgrass8134]

Wasn't aware of the temperature issue. I always use the crockpot on high! I assume many others do that too!

[@tracksmart2887]

If your slow cooker is Crockpot branded, I'm pretty sure that the "low" and "high" temperature settings will both turn off at the exact same temperature. The difference is that the high setting will blast more power into the crockpot to heat things more quickly, while the low setting will very slowly heat the contents. Other slow cookers might behave differently in terms of the maximum temperatures they reach.

[@troyesch6203]

ZFC had tested this and the high temp is too high. Low is where ya wanna be.

[@Ricqu]

Would you recommend hot waxing the chain with the quicklink attached to the chain, as if the chain was installed on the bike?

[@troyesch6203]

No need to wax the link

[@bobsilva6222]

I do get residual wax on the outside of the chain but it does wipe off somewhat.

[@ECVelo]

My wax in the middle of the crockpot is about 85C. I pull it slowly with two spokes. I use one to hold it and the other to flex the chain back and forth so the liquid wax can pull into the spaces a bit. I hook both ends of the chain so it only takes half as long.

[@kyleosler]

So, the stripChip cleans the chain every time? I thought it was only for the first dip? I usually clean my chain before reapplying wax. I try to take it down to bare metal with my ultrasonic machine.

[@morecarl]

What brand of chain and quick link is recommended for waxing applications on Campagnolo drive trains (Record/Super Record if that makes a difference)?

[@MiroMateev]

Great video! I have a question - is there a risk of permanent stains by drips of wax on the countertop or wax flakes on the floor due to the tungsten disulfide. What’s your experience and do you have some cleaning tips? Thanks!

[@snarx450]

Thanks for this video. New to waxing and answered a few questions I had!

[@matthewpassmore8618]

I thought I knew how to wax a chain but still learnt a lot from this video! When you say don't buy chains from amazon, does that also include the Shimano store on amazon? Also, does the KMC gold chain (KMC X11SL 11 Speed Chain) work well with the Silca wax?

[@tracksmart2887]

I'm not on the Silca team, but here's my understanding: Amazon gets, let's say, 10,000 Ultegra 11-speed chains from 100 different sellers. These sellers use Amazon's warehouses and logistics for fulfillment. All of the chains go into Amazon's system under the same item number and condition ("new Ultegra 11 speed chain"). If you order a chain, Amazon will to send you one that will get to you from its closest warehouse. So, as I understand it, you cannot be certain that you are getting the chain that Shimano put into Amazon's warehouse system. Amazon's inventory system sees them all as the same item. Someone feel free to correct me if I am wrong about this, but I will not buy chains (or other commonly counterfeited goods) from Amazon. I've been burned a few times already, even in cases where the product had 1000's of customer reviews and seemed legit, some fraction of buyers was obviously getting counterfeit goods.

[@grahamballard7041]

At the moment I am using the super secret drip wax and it seems to be ok . I re applie about once a week, roughly between 150/200k. What I don't understand is what actual benefit would I gain from going to the expense of the full immersion system. I haven't raced for over 30 years, so a 5watt saving seems to invoke the law of diminishing returns, as I would still need to re-wax my chain about once a week.

[@jakebrakebill]

since I'm still riding a 3x9 M/T bike, I let it cool down a pinch more than normal for a little candle effect. thinking it will help on shifting and wear of the front derailleur. how right or wrong am I for doing it ?

[@MaartendeJager]

I got 4500 km out of a kmc x8 stripping with diesel then gas then alcohol. Waxing every 150 km on a gasstove. Let it cool before pulling it out, till the wax hardens at the edges of the pan when wiggled. Used to got like 2500 km out of it with higher intervals and dripping with non silca.

[@miketaylor7678]

Very helpful, thanks Josh!

[@pauljogever3282]

I just purchased 2 Endurance chips and put them into a bag of Secret Chain Blend. In doing this, I get that it will/should last longer but by adding the chips am I diluting the effectiveness of the Secret chain wax? Or will it still offer the same level of wear protection?

[@RelakS__]

"Don't pull it too hot" - I wait with the removal until around 60°C. At that point a slight skin start to develop on the surface of the wax right at its side. Yes, it is tricky to find the point where it is cold enough, but won't become a candle. Because it is kind if cold at that point, so much wax remains in the chain, that it practically hardens to a hard block. At this moment it looks like it works, at least for 200km, when I change my chains. "Breaking in" - I don't know the performance loss part of it, but after like 100-200m, I can even pedal backwards, which for me looks good enough. For serious use may be not enough.

[@huangteng]

The rainbow coating you mentioned, is it true for SRAM AXS RED rainbow chain?

[@justsomedude7556]

I have the same question, my rainbow SRAM rainbow XX1 Eagle seems to work well.

[@coldbike5277]

My first customer for a pre-waxed chain wrote a very extensive email about all the things i might have done wrong, only to have me show him that he had routed his chain over the tab. I also had a customerr create a sram flat-bottom chain and complain about the waxed chain shifting

[@carywatmore]

Excellent stuff Josh. On my first chain i did remove my chain from the crockpot too late. And yes there was a coating (candle 🤪) all i did was break the chain in for a longer period. BTW i ride a Brompton as well and you should really look into it - what’s the difference? Well the chain sits very low to the ground and i found Silca Hot Wax to be excellent. Gone are the weekly degreasing and re-lubing. With Hot Wax, followed with Drip Wax - after each of the first 3 rides i now have an ultra quiet chain. Only on one Brompton do i use Silca’s wet lube. It’s my all weather bike. And even with that the chain is quite clean as a really wipe it down after each ride with the Silca Gear Wipe. A very nice system you have. Costly but nice. I don’t wax for watt savings but i am inherently lazy. I do have one question - since i am using Strip Chip these days - when the time comes to wax another chain that the grease has been stripped using either mineral spirits (turpentine) or Chain Stripper; i am assuming i can just go ahead and drop it in the old wax pot (it has a thin white layer now that i started using Strip Chip. For clarity; can i go ahead and reuse the same wax pot (now with left over Strip Chip) on degreased chains - in other words - for new chains with factory grease put in a Strip Chip - and same pot without a Strip Chip if using a degreased chain (either using Chain Stripper or Mineral Sprits with a alcohol rinse).

[@leoc9074]

Does anybody know if the Sram XO Eagle T-Type transmission black chain does not accept this wax well? Thanks!

[@madpeddler8263]

I use Campagnolo chains (and gruppos) because there's no market for counterfeit Campy 😂

[@gtkona1608]

I waxed my super cleaned chain using the Secret Chain Blend and after the wax dried and cooled down, after thirty minutes on my trainer the chain is still far too stiff to even consider using it. I have been waxing my chain for several years and have never encountered such a poor outcome.

[@paulaus]

What's the recommended interval to clean off your drivetrain if you are using the Super Secret drip lube? And is it just the hot water method? I've just been reapplying occasionally as I commute in the wet and seem to get some wash off as a result.

[@rickbeckner9906]

I have the same question!

[@CanTURKeyed]

Hi Cosh ı have a question. before silca heater you said you need to oull out the chain when you start to see frozen layer on the wax. when ı use laser termometer this temperature is around 61C. so if we take ıt out at 75 degree the wax is way to much liquid. what do you think about that?

[@JeffL-rc1we]

Great videos keep them coming! When quoting mileage that can be obtained from hot wax and drip wax applications can you differentiate between rod, gravel, and mtb? Much like quoting miles and km 👍

[@Soccergirly.and.VeloDad]

I got a brand new bike, degreased the drivetrain and went through the chain cleaning and waxing process. I put the chain back on and went for a 1200 watt sprint session. I thought, "jeez that is so noisy". Chain was over the tab on the derailleur cage. It has a little scar now to remind me of my ignorance.

[@TnFruit]

Do the strip chip shift the wax to one side or the other if combined with the endurance chip?

[@tracksmart2887]

FACT OR FICTION? "You should let the wax cool slightly before pulling the chain." Adam at ZFC says FICTION. Josh at Silca says FACT. Have you guys at Silca actually tested this and found substantial gains in longevity? You and Adam at ZFC both have plausible-sounding explanations, but I haven't seen any testing data. Adam at ZFC says it doesn't matter if you pull the chain at 90-ish Celsius. His reasoning: You only need the thinnest of wax coatings, which will get thinner yet as the chain parts rub against each other in the first 20 minutes of riding. Having a thicker coating just means a longer break-in period with zero benefit. Josh at Silca: If the wax is normal crockpot "low" temperature (e.g, mid-90's Celsius), it will be less viscous, and so much of the wax will run off the chain that it won't be fully protected. In other videos, Josh has also strongly suggested that a thicker coating is beneficial (longer protection). Hence the suggestion of multiple rounds of adding super-secret drip lube to fill in all of the space inside the chain (which Adam at ZFC firmly says is nonsensical because the extra wax will be ejected in the first minutes of riding). Yours truly, Adam at ZFC, and most people I know pull the chain at whatever "low" temperature their slow cooker uses (no waiting). It's way more convenient. You also avoid an overly-thick coating of wax outside the chain, which makes the chain extra difficult to break in -- especially in colder weather. We all seem to have satisfactory results. THAT SAID, would my wax treatment last considerably longer if I waited for some cooling? Unless somebody brings some data to bear, just like those old Tootsie Roll commercials, "THE WORLD MAY NEVER KNOW".

[@mattguy4567]

Didn’t he mostly address this at 6:37, sounds like they only recommended it in the past due to some crockpots being too hot

[@tracksmart2887]

​@mattguy4567 Thanks for the reply! That segment: He says "don't make a candle" (i.e., be sure to mix in any film at the top and let it dissolve before pulling the chain). You would only run into this issue if you were waiting for the wax to cool to a fairly low temperature. Also: I think you are losing the forest for the trees in your argument. Everything Silca has said on this topic for the past few years, from their how-to videos, to the how-to text on their website says something along these lines: "Aim to pull the chain out of the wax via the bent spoke as close to its hardening point as possible. This keeps as much of the wax in the chain rather than dripping out as possible." That's a direct quote from their website instructions. So, he's not just talking about crockpots that exceed their temperature parameters! He's saying to let it cool substantially before pulling the chain. Down to 75C (with the Silca pot) or just before the wax starts to harden if you are using a regular slow cooker. That's a huge pain. I want to know if it actuall provides a large boost in treatment longevity. It definitely causes inconvenience and makes it harder to break in freshly waxed chains.

[@tracksmart2887]

Looks like Adam at ZFC just posted a video. He says, from his perspective, there is no meaningful difference between pulling the chain at temperatures between 70C and 100C. Waiting for more cooling and a thicker wax coating only causes you to use up your wax quicker for no benefit. That said, he acknowledges that if your temperature is way too high (e.g. 130C), then it might make a difference. Summary: If your slow cooker is within the normal range for 'low', don't stress. Maybe measure the slow cooker temperature once or twice a year to make sure yours isn't malfunctioning and going crazy high.