Sit & Sew - Hang out as I work on a Hoodie (My very wrong attempt at FBA) || Kwik Sew 2875 || Ep 191

Just a "let's hang out and sew" video while I work on my Kwik Sew 2875 hoodie - bring your own project!
Products Mentioned:
Curve Ruler - www.amazon.com...
Tracing Paper - www.amazon.com...
Tape - www.amazon.com...
Kwik Sew 3691 (SORRY I missed adding the link within the video) - www.amazon.com...
What I'm Wearing:
Top - Love Notions Laundry Day Tee
Pants - New Look 6517
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/ @justmeandmyfabric
My Measurements:
HB = 40"
FB = 43"
W = 37"
H = 46"
Height = 5'6"
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[@lauragoodrich5618]

Hi Angela, I enjoyed sewing with you. Do you have Fit for Real People by Palmer Pletsch? Check the directions for an FBA in there. If done according to their directions, the extra length will be added to the front and it won’t rotate outwards at the bottom. The width needed for the FBA is added equally from the bust point down to the hem. This might be the reason your garment is spreading open at the bottom

[@JustMeAndMyFabric]

Hi Laura, great to hear from you! I do not have that book, but I have a couple other fitting books. I'll take a look at the instructions. I appreciate your insight and agree totally about adding the width from bust to hem. I'll have to readjust the pattern pieces and recut, using a different test fabric if needed. Thank you so much! 💕

[@sewingtee]

Hi Angela! I love the idea of just getting together to sew! It can get lonely in the sewing room. I'm working on a pattern I think you mentioned in the past, NEW LOOK 6517. It's a basic top and pants but I still had so many alterations to make! I'm always amazed how challenging it can be to get a good fit. Thanks for your channel!

[@JustMeAndMyFabric]

Hi! I"m so happy to hear that you enjoy the videos!! Yes, 6517 was a good one for me but I feel like I should've done a better job with the top. I wear the pants all the time though. I'm toying around with the idea of (once I make these next few pieces to take with me on vacation) getting back to very simple basics and just practicing fit techniques until I get very familiar and comfortable with each one. Hope you're having a great week!

[@lynnshepard7485]

I enjoyed sewing with you, Angela. I almost finished a test pair of shorts! Do you ever go live while you’re sewing? That’s lots of fun for me.

[@JustMeAndMyFabric]

Hi Lynn! Thanks so much for hanging out with me! It's funny you asked, because I was "this close" to just doing a live video for this hangout. I've done a couple of lives and I still get a bit nervous doing so in front of the public at large. I appreciate your feedback and will definitely consider for the future. Just fyi, if you subscribe to the membership, we do a monthly live chat. Not pushing it on you, just wanted to throw that option out there. It's more of a safe zone for me when going live. 😊

[@lynnshepard7485]

@@JustMeAndMyFabric Membership? I’ll look in the description box for that. Thanks!

[@JustMeAndMyFabric]

Awesome! You can learn more about it by clicking the "Join" button next to my channel name on any video. There's a couple different levels, it's similar to Patreon, if you're familiar with that platform. There's just a couple of us in it right now so we do a monthly Facetime call. As more people join, I will look into using Zoom so we can all see each other as we talk :)

[@lynnshepard7485]

@@JustMeAndMyFabric Oops, I joined but somehow missed that there are different levels. I’ll go back to look after I walk my dog.

[@JustMeAndMyFabric]

Thank you so much for your support! 💕💕💕 Both levels come with a sticker(s) that has the channel's logo. Check the community page when you get a chance. 😊

[@antoniaburlingame5921]

Hi Angela. I enjoyed being along for your process, especially as you think through things. I've been working on a test garment for a jacket while watching your video -- I'm on Version 6 of pattern adjustments. I was working with a stiff muslin (yucky) but this test garment is out of the flannel from Joann's that is $2.99 a yard when on sale. I find it to be a good mix of drapiness but with some body for test garments. We both seem to be in the UGH stage of fitting. That's often an elongated stage for me. I have neck and shoulder issues, so am always trying to find a way to have garments not pull on either of those body parts to create pain. That's a challenge since tops and jackets are designed to hang off the shoulders (and that means the upper back too). I've learned the hard way that fitting a test garment without sleeves (if it has sleeves) doesn't work for me. The sleeves add weight and pull down on the top of the garment, so the fit is different with them in versus missing. I also can't tell if something will be wearable unless the total weight is in my test garment. And even then, I've thought the fit is OK and then not been able to wear the final garment because it's too heavy for my neck and shoulders. Especially when you're grading between sizes, how the sleeves get attached can soon become a nightmare; it's better to test out things in a test garment in my humble opinion. As to your fit, I think the shoulders are still too wide for you. The drawing on the pattern envelope looks like the sleeves are set-in with no or very little drop. You might try cutting the shoulders from a size M instead of L. Also, it might be good to add shoulder darts on the back bodice to curve around your upper back and shoulder blades, especially since you are using a knit pattern for a woven fabric. As to bigger armholes/sleeves from bigger size pattern pieces, instead of grading out to larger sizes, I usually end up picking the sleeve size and then tracing off the arm scythe from that size from the shoulder seam down. Otherwise you'll be trying to fit an extra large sleeve into an armhole that is a size M on the top and a size XL on the bottom. You kind of got an inkling of that when the XL armhole was too low and too wide on your test bodice. Also remember that if you take in the side seam, you will need a different size sleeve to fit into the arm scythe. Regarding the front, I would figure out what to do in terms of how it is hanging once the sleeves and hood are in. If you are going to wear the hoodie with the closure at the top fastened, I would pin it that way before trying to fix the drape of the front bodice. I agree with the other comments -- go back and watch a video on FBA and work through it step by step. I think the modification you did might flare out too much at the hem and that might be why it is hanging low at the center front when the hoodie is unfastened at the neck. One more idea in this long comment (sorry about the length): you might want to add side vents at the lower hem so you have more ease when sitting, especially if you have enough of the good fabric that you do get to lengthen the hoodie. Thanks for bringing us along on your process. Can't wait to see what you decide (or how you finish up the modifications) and the good fabric you're going to use or have already turned into a lovely hoodie by the next video if you're in the superwoman phase, Antonia

[@JustMeAndMyFabric]

Hi Antonia! Thank you so much for watching and for your thoughtful comments 💕. I love all this info and will work through the tips you've provided. I'm planning to spend my next day off work back at the drawing board to get these pieces perfected. You must be so dedicated to be on version 6!! I guess that's how we get the good fit, though. Best wishes with your jacket!

[@antoniaburlingame5921]

@@JustMeAndMyFabric Hi Angela. I wouldn't be this dedicated without the pain motivating me to modify. Let's see, there's forward shoulders and forward head, upper round back with bump in the middle, prominent shoulder blades, left shoulder 1/2 inch shorter than right, over sensitive neck muscles so can't have a neckline close to my neck, narrow shoulders and wide hips, long torso and long arms. It's such a good thing to be able to sew and tweak until happy. I do kind of cheat because I use knit fabric for the back yoke and back collar when sewing with woven fabrics. I just can't get rid of all the pressure points on my neck and back with 100% woven fabric ( and believe me I really tried -- last year for Me Made May I made nine versions of a collared shirt before I came up with the knit fabric for a small back yoke). Let's hope one or two more versions will be all you need. You're doing great. Fitting can be frustrating. But I always learn more through my failures, so for me it's worth the struggle. Wishing you smooth sailing with the hoodie, Antonia

[@JustMeAndMyFabric]

Kudos! It is nice indeed to be able to customize to our specific needs. And I agree with you, only by failing do we deeply learn a thing. Hope you're having a great week!

[@StephanieMadden-q8d]

I am watching your progress and I think your full bust adjustment is off. Every time you are adding to the hem in the front and not to your bust. I stopped sewing garments because of the fba. I wish you luck.

[@JustMeAndMyFabric]

Hi! Thanks so much for your feedback. I can certainly use any and all help when it comes to pattern adjustments. It's been one of my sewing goals for a couple of years now and every tiny improvement is a win. I'm glad you hung out with me today and hope you're having a great week!

[@JustMeAndMyFabric]

Giving it more thought and I think you are so right. I need to seriously learn how to do this. Thank you for your insight!

[@StephanieMadden-q8d]

Thanks for your kind reply. I would watch TomKat Stitchery for information on the FBA, Whitney is an expert on this topic. I hate to see you put so much effort into this adjustment. I can see that You are adding along the hem, then taking it in on the sides, defeating your purpose. If you weren't making the adjustment, you wouldn't need to take in the sides.

[@JustMeAndMyFabric]

Yes, indeed! I will check out Whitney's video and also Karina's. Thanks so much again!!