Skimping Gone Too Far - Longer LK5 Pro 3D Printer

[@picsbyjlm8557]

I'm new with playing with 3d printers and bought my lk pro a month ago. My first printer. I was able to quickly and easily assemble and figure out everything this guy complained about. Always watching vids like this to learn from.

[@toddpope8436]

Very thorough review. Though, I think your unit may have been abnormally loud. Mine sounds like little more than a desktop computer when turned on. Its super quiet. I could easily sleep next to it. I did enjoy your breakdown of the engineering of the product. In ease of use, I found it more complicated to assemble, but easier to use than my snapmaker. I have had no failed prints, and am impressed with its performance. However, due to the issues mentioned by the OP, it's useful life may be shorter due to the way it was engineered. I also found that mine contained the toothed bearings, so they have certainly evolved their production, possibly due to feedback from videos like this. Thanks for your contribution.

[@noxplanationgaming]

That thing he said about the belt wearing out quicker on the smooth rollers is so stupid because I did some big brain math and it would take almost 10 years for the belt to wear out!

[@LexxDesign3D]

@Anaythea you can print a 40mm to 60mm adapter and run a quieter fan with the same amount of airflow

[@chain3519]

I had the original but left it when I moved. Just bought another and they've actually made a few updates regarding part cooling and the way the timing belt is retained on the X axis

[@chain3519]

I just want to amend this a little so people aren't mislead. The belt is still off axis, but it's retained in a higher quality manner

[@mlseries2553]

This video was very well done! Thank you for the information. I find your expertise intoxicating.

[@GarethIzCool]

I got the longer LK4 pro a year or so ago now. Its been a great printer. But i did have to ignore the setup and build document and build it myself following help from the internet on how to build your own printer on the open source community. I have also had to do a lot of fixes myself. I also had to move my z stop like you mention on this one. It failed on my lk4 and would not stop z movement. Still i love the printer and have learnt so much from it but i agree with everything you have said.

[@ChainsawSquirrel]

my lk5 pro ( refurbished direct from longer ) z axix switch is not working, but new ones are 10 bucks for 5 of them, I did away with that all together by converting to BL Touch now have auto level and no need for the crappy switch

[@traviscrites]

I've owned the LK5 for over a year now and have had massive problems since day #1. The first unit had a bent frame, so they DID replace it. On the replacement the Bed is warped pretty badly in the middle. The filament sensor was mistakenly sending out of filament errors a few times during every print until I disabled it - none of these were legit, so I disconnected and bypassed this sensor and it's hanging on the the back of the machine now. The Z-axis sensor stickers on both the original and replacement had fallen off, so I had to give it my best guess. The interface goes haywire pretty frequently and the whole machine needs to be turned off and on again. The Extruder feed is terrible with any even slightly flexible filament OR slippery (glossy) filament - it tends to skip and slip and eject everything I try (I did get a dual gear extruder, but tech support told me not to install it). I could go on all day with this list... And It IS ridiculously loud - even with the little muffler installed over the power supply fan. Both the power supply fan and the 40mm case fan are just unacceptably loud for a "silent" printer. But the absolute worst is the Hot End or heat controller. NO, actually, the worst is the tech support failing to respond (now) or resolve the Hot End issues. Right now, as I'm writing this, I'm printing PLA at "250c" - the maximum temperature - at 20mm speed. This is the MAXIMUM I can reliably print and not have it clog and fail. I'm using the fourth hot end replacement - the last two I paid for, by the way - and I've had the same experience with all of them. These are all factory replacements - nothing aftermarket has ever been installed. I can set it to 220c or even 200c and it will seem to be fine, but then I'll walk by and it shows 160c and is clogged. I'm in Arizona, USA, super-dry and the ambient temperature in the area it's printing is between 75 and 85 degrees F. Tech Support just stopped responding - I guess I'm out of warranty now, but I have dozens of emails trying to work through the problems with them. Admittedly, I'm not a 3d printing expert - not by a long shot - but I DO expect things to work as they're designed to (and as advertised) and without this many headaches. I'm not sure a replacement hot end will do anything because it seems to be whatever is controlling the heat that is failing. Again, PLA at 250c and VERY slowly, just to get anything out of it. Forget any other filaments. Also, and this is really a big one, there's not much of a community for these printers. I've searched many times to see if anyone recommends a drop-in hot end, a silent 40mm case fan, a silent power supply, a dual-gear feeder that doesn't require reprogramming, etc. etc. The same searches for just about any upgrade for any Ender 3 machine has hundreds of threads and discussions and recommendations. Don't overlook or disregard the value of this - like I did when I chose this over the Ender 3 - I cannot say how much I regret not getting the Ender 3. Even if it wasn't a spec or value match at the time, the community support for that machine is incredibly valuable. For these reasons, I would recommend people avoid this model - in fact, with the tech support issues I've had, and lack of community support, I'd avoid this manufacturer entirely. I hope this helps and good luck!

[@vernonthompson5236]

My fan is way too loud. Did you replace the fan?

[@JosephStory]

I knew nothing and I've wanted a printer since 2013. I started with this printer in the first quarter of 2022. But it's shortcomings are probably what educated me in what to look for in a printer and what not to do. It's no longer the same printer. New board, added another z stepper. New direct drive extruder(recompile Marlin). The fans were horrible. That was the biggest reason to put a more modern board in it(recompile Marlin). I also replaced that jumper wire in the PSU with a thermal switch so the fan runs after it reaches 35c I think. I remember adding a bed probe(recompile Marlin) to it before adding the second z stepper(again, recompile Marlin, then switched to Klipper). Which led to me troubleshooting weird elephant's foot on the far right side of the bed. That's when I learned that no matter what I did the right side of the gantry would lag until it was lifted a few more millimeter on the left side. 300mm width gantry should have a dual lead screw and at least a timing belt between the two. Last, and what probably should have been first, was adding magnetic plate and PEI spring steel sheet to the bed. I was completely fine with printing on that textured glass plate until I enclosed the printer in a tent and started ASA/ABS. I could not keep ASA stuck to the glass. It kept lifting. Textured PEI completely solved that issue. This machine was then able to print the functional Voron Trident parts I needed to retire the LK5. I could definitely see someone less determined getting frustrated with a machine lacking some of the features mentioned above and quitting the hobby. Most notably the second z rod. I didn't touch this machine for 8 month's of 2022. I don't see how the LK could be sold in 2024 for it's current price. How many people need that build volume? I've never used 50% of the height. I wouldn't recommend this as a first printer for the average person. I'd put this printer in the cheap neat toy category and not in the useful tool category. Maybe it's like learning to drive a manual transmission before driving an automatic transmission.

[@DarthRidiculous]

Great review. I have never understood, however, how people are annoyed by fan noise, but I sleep with fan noise so I can just tune it out.

[@tanel636]

I bought mine slightly second hand, previous owner used it allegedly for a short time just to "test it". Soon noticed that the heat bed is a little concaved in the middle, no matter how many times I leveled it, it's still like this. Then I noticed that the Y-belt tilts to the one side on the stepper pulley. Was sure, that the stepper bracket isn't completely right angled,. It was. The real reason was, that the belt had a twist in it. And since it was hidden in the extruded aluminium frame, you really couldn't see it. And those metal clips that hold down the class cover, scrape off the coating from the copper rails off the heat bed...

[@ZERO-th6dd]

I took mine right out of the box and didn't need to adjust any of the guide wheels and the bed was perfectly level. I have printed over 60 different things on it and the bed is still level and I haven't needed to adjust it at all

[@GreenGuyDIY]

Nice analysis. May I add the first thing that I noticed. I am new to 3D so I went through a little youtube training (thanks to all those who provide it) and saw the accepted method for loading and unloading filament. After my third cycle, the printer would not run due to filament missing. Inspection of the limit switch for the filament showed that the lever on the switch was broken at the tip. Yes, not worn, but broken. The lever portion of the switch is 0.5mm thick and the shape is such that drawing an unloaded filament out will break it. I have had to amend the process to clean cut the filament being extracted at the extruder gear and then pulling it out. Longer did not choose the limit switch wisely and could have used switches with much more robust levers at no increase in cost.

[@3r-enterprises611]

Nice critique. Where can I get the parts you showed to improve this printer? Like the belt idlers, steel filament drive gear, etc...

[@cristianomartins7811]

I would also like to know

[@project-5724]

@@cristianomartins7811 So would I

[@mishatagavor]

Me too

[@AndrewSink]

An incredible deep-dive into the engineering of this machine! You did a great job explaining what issues exist with this machine, and how they could be solved. It's funny, I'm so used to low-end machines having these sort of strange design considerations that I just assume it's cost-related, but you're right, so many could have been solved for free.

[@AndrewSink]

Also, congrats on Chinese-English-German, that's an accomplishment by itself!

[@ConstantijnC]

Thank you Andrew! And thanks for helping me out. The price tag is super low and the prints look very good. The issues are negligible for the first few weeks, months or maybe years, depending on how much the printer is being used, so I'm not blaming anyone for looking past them.

[@bobtheblob2770]

I have a longer lk4 pro and I totally agree with the noise. I want to replace all the fans with noctua fans because it’s just so loud

[@silvercoupe97]

Thank you for your very complete review. I really enjoyed the honest and true expressions, both verbal and facial from everyone. I've seen others and they all seem sugar coated (as in paid). I'm critical like you and even though I'm new to the 3d printing scene, I'm a a gadget and tech nerd and everything you are saying makes absolute sense.

[@onestopfunstop317]

I'd love to hear your suggestions on a better more reliable unit. What would you suggest as an alternative?

[@ConstantijnC]

The only other retail printer I tried was a Prusa mk3s, which is considerably more expensive. I won’t recommend that one specifically, but I do recommend looking at printers at that price point and up if you don’t like tinkering. If you do, then you can buy basically any cheap printer out there. In that case I’d go with the printer that has the biggest community behind it, which it seems like that would be Creality.

[@ConstantijnC]

Oh that sounds like I don’t recommend the Prusa… I do recommend Prusa, but just because I recommend looking at printers at that price point and up :)

[@cr6925]

An excelent and informative review! Thank you for taking the time to point out the various areas of improvement and what those improvements are. V interesting. Subscribed! 😃

[@CamelliaSinensis]

Well I agree that the language of the manual should be in German, translation costs do apply and it's a web product meaning that it is being shipped international and English is acceptable. Everything else you are 100% correct!

[@joebaru949]

Friends that work for Boeing say that Lufthansa asks that their service manuals be written in English because it's more precise.

[@CamelliaSinensis]

@@joebaru949 Speaks more to the translation quality and not the language in question 😅

[@evertonbrome2539]

I would like to get a large 3d printer what would you suggest?

[@Flarrow23]

What is the correct nozzle for it? I can’t seem to find any info on that

[@ConstantijnC]

It’s the standard 0.4mm nozzle that most printers use. You can use the e3d v6 style nozzles or the pointier mk8 ones that other Chinese printers usually use. The mk8 style nozzle comes standard with this printer. Those two kinds of nozzles look a bit different to each other on the outside but they both fit. After changing the nozzle, make sure to level your bed again because of possible differences in nozzle length. You can also change the orifice diameter to something else. Just make sure to change that diameter within your slicer as well.

[@Gorilla_Jones]

Been using my LK5 pros for 6 moths flawlessly. They’re great. 🤷🏻‍♂️. Mine are the dual blower upgraded model.

[@Tarnished-v3n]

Great review but i have one question should I buy it

[@ConstantijnC]

According to some other comments here, they seem to have fixed or addresses most of my talking points. Regardless, if you like modifying printers, then you can’t go wrong with it anyway 👍

[@Tarnished-v3n]

@@ConstantijnC ok thank you very much 😊

[@David_Mash]

Where are your other non traditional printer design builds? I have a design that seems to be use by no one but uses a cylindrical coordinate system or polar . But the print bed is stationary

[@olafschermann1592]

There exists a new coldend / part cooling fan unit from longer which you can retrofit.

[@C0smicNINJA]

Could you do a video showing how to fix these problems? I have this printer and would like to fix as many of these problems as cheaply as possible. I’m new to 3D printing, so I don’t know how to do a lot of this.

[@ConstantijnC]

Unfortunately I currently don’t have time to make more videos:/

[@wiretap25]

I'm in the process of upgrading/fixing some of the shortcomings of the LK5 Pro. But out of the box for $188 on the 11/11 sale, it works beyond expectations. For the idler pulleys that don't have teeth, do you know what the toothed model replacement would be? I believe it might be a GT2 T26, but not sure where those are sold since it seems uncommon. In regards to the noise level, I find it very quiet, at least compared to my Flashforge Creator Pro clone, haha. I appreciate the honest video review and discussing the design flaws.

[@ConstantijnC]

The pulleys should be GT2 20t if I’m not mistaken. It’s the most common pulley size on hobby 3d printers. Ive also now had quite some people tell me that their longer isn’t that loud. I think what’s going on is that they randomly sourcing different parts depending on what they can get their hands on. Thanks for watching!

[@wiretap25]

@@ConstantijnC Thanks. Yea the power supply fan is definitely audible in mine, but doesn't sound like the one in your video. Sourcing different parts when they assemble them seems like the most likely cause.

[@therestorationshop]

@@ConstantijnC I got mine 1/22 and it is very quiet. Hard to tell it is on. I double checked that the power supply fans were even running.

[@fadelfarae6019]

I have the same printer and the fan noise is annoying

[@jaymagee927]

i have 4 lk5 pros, they are in my basement where the rest of my printers are located and i dont hear anything, i guess i am used to the noise and drown it out. But your fans do sound louder than the 4 of mine combined. I did how ever replace all the fans with much better fans, even at that the stock fans were not as loud as the one you have. printing issues are very minimal. i hardly dry any of my filament and get awesome prints. I have to believe that most of your issues are subjective to you in my opinion. I have a ender 3 S1 pro and it sits under the desk collecting dust because of all the issues i have with it. i hope you get these figured out because the lk5 pro does really produce some high quality prints.

[@BummelCr]

Short Question:: I started to look at eBay to find the pulleys and stumbled across the question: how mush teeth Z16 or Z20? And is 3mm hole is okay? Has anybody made the changes and can share some details?

[@ConstantijnC]

The pulleys should be 2-GT 20 tooth ones with a 5mm inner diameter

[@pistolpknpanda323]

Best in depth review I have seen. I currently have the LK4 Pro and have loved it. But I am now looking for a larger size in this price range even with this review I am tied between the LK5 Pro and the Anycubic Chiron. Thank you for the deep dive into the LK5 Pro.

[@noxplanationgaming]

The upgraded version has better cooling, the belt issue is fixed, and the teeth thing was fixed too! Seems like longer saw this review and listened to you!

[@fvt3351]

is the upgraded version under the same name

[@olafschermann1592]

I am curious why other reviews are top notch. Noise as well as print quality. You adressed that question but i still don’t understand the differences.

[@tspaziovirtuale3615]

One of the best and most detailed review, I have ever seen so far about this printer, Thank you. I have doubts about buying this machine till they produce a proper manual or at least as a company they could produce an assembly video if the manual description is difficult to put together.

[@VirtualReality-zv5oh]

The fan is as loud as yours and was the first thing I replaced. However, I did not have a strain relief for the heat bed. Everything else in your video I can confirm unfortunately. In addition, I previously had the Anycubic S, which puts everything in terms of noise in the shade. 😆

[@mak3r710]

About the fan noise I'm with you all of the China printer are this loud because they als use this super tiny 30 to 50mm fans to cool the control boards, and the power bricks are super loud also, for the control boards I switche all to 90mm slim fans or 120mm pc fans behind a DC DC step-down converter, you need a good airflow if using the tmc drivers they tend to overheat if you push the machine. For the powerbricks same I tend to switch to passive powerbricks from meanwell + slow PC Fan depending on the power output needed.

[@steve318k]

How difficult is it to convert from 24v to 5v to use pc fans ? I have been in and around my computer changing all the components and have built one myself... but that's basically plug and play. Would this be a simple DIY ? I can design and then print any mounting or enclosures I need . My concern is the electrical part of it. Thanks, Steve

[@vestercasper]

Thanks for a very honest review ! Super content !

[@michaelclarke6402]

after less than ten prints I'm having to replace parts such as the filament sensor. That's weak for sure

[@TheHunterDG33]

My only problem is that the silicone protector fell off and I can get it on perfectly

[@MrTheKing771]

got this printer based on other reviews that where mostly positive, first thing my retail unit didn't come with that cable support plastic you got, also its same situation with removing 3d prints that you also had, its not that easy as other people showed. I also ordered upgraded cooling head with 2fans because i knew it was its weakness. also i think my fan sounds similar but because i didn't had how to compare it i assume its not loud. One of problems i had it came with longer LK4 pro firmware and it took me like 3hours to update it because instructions where bad. Anyway as this is my first 3d printer i would like to improve it based on your critique, could you help me and show me what parts i could buy like those Pulleys, i assume its not hard to upgrade them myself? also maybe putting noctua fans would help with noise? am not really good with electronics but maybe i can do it myself.

[@mak3r710]

Sehr cooles Video! Love it especially the math part and the explanations about the belt/printhead pathway

[@localgamerz2961]

i got mine for 150 "broken" on ebay. all it needed was a new brass nozzle. which i got 10 for like 8$. It prints well but oh boy it took me longer than i admit to figure out the nozzle was bad. I checked everything else before that...

[@Demon5layer2012]

I personally change out the fans with noctua cooling fans since they are generally better quality and much quieter

[@burnzspielwiese8654]

Sehr tolles Video, mein Englisch ist etwas rusty darum schreib ich in deutsch damit ich mich nicht ganz blamiere. Ich habe diesen Drucker im Visier weil Größe und Preis passen, jetzt hab ich gesehen er hat ein paar, ich sag mal Design Schwächen. Kannst du den Drucker, Preis Leistungs technisch empfehlen? Was sollte ich gleich dazu erstellen um so Kleinigkeiten wie diesen wabeligen Riemen besser zu verlegen.

[@ConstantijnC]

Ach hier kann man sich doch nicht blamieren ;) Also allgemein empfehle ich ihn nicht, weil nicht jeder Lust hat ein paar Änderungen durch zu führen und ich nicht gerne enttäuschte Zuschauer habe 😅. Da du da aber anscheinend keine Probleme mit hast, würde ich sagen go for it! Ich hab gerade unter dem Kommentar von Robert Bridges beschrieben was man tun könnte um den Winkel des Riemens zu verbessern. Das würde dann auch gleichzeitig das problem lösen, dass der Riemen am scharfen Alu Profil schleift. Ansonsten bin ich der Meinung dass es nach dem Schauen vom Video keine bösen Überraschungen mehr geben wird. Du weißt was du kriegst und ich glaub ich hab ein paar gute Ansätze mit rein gebracht wie man es fixen könnte. Mir macht das Fixen und Optimieren immer am meisten Spaß, aber ich warne dich vor: Wenn du nach neuen Teilen shoppst, passiert es ganz schnell dass man dann plötzlich doch noch viel mehr Geld ausgibt, weil etwas vielleicht etwas besser aussieht, schnelleren Versand hat, noch ein extra feature hat was man eigentlich gar nicht braucht usw. Das braucht ne gute Selbstkontrolle 😂

[@burnzspielwiese8654]

@@ConstantijnC danke für die detaillierte Antwort. Ja optimieren gehört bei einem Hobby für mich dazu, Gerade in der preisklasse und wenn man dann noch so ein relativ großes druckbett haben will muss man Abstriche machen.

[@burnzspielwiese8654]

@@ConstantijnC hey ist jetzt ein creality cr-10 v2 geworden war gerade im Angebot und hat weniger störende Design Entscheidungen zb. 2 z Motoren

[@David-hi9rp]

Hi from England I have a Longer LK5 and I agree it is VERY Loud compared to my Ender 3 But I have made many upgrades Including a 32bit board and touch screen which OMG makes a difference, changing the fans on my Ender to make it quieter which i will be doing to this. good review.

[@dweaver1805]

WHy don't you put together a parts list of all the things you mentioned so those that want to could upgrade all those fixes? Like better quieter fans also etc that would be a great help? :)

[@ConstantijnC]

Well I basically already did so, starting at 22:46 😏

[@lwhack458]

Your mileage may vary. Didn't have any of these issues. Mine operates in a sound treated room that is kept very cool, so that could be part of it.

[@arnoandersen7012]

I'm not very satisfied with my LK5 - I guess I'll be using most of the parts as donorparts for a Voron Switchwire (-ish) printer

[@ConstantijnC]

It’s a big step from the LK5 to the Voron 😄 are you sure you don’t just want to upgrade the LK5? Anyway, the Voron is really sexy. I’m sure you wouldn’t regret it

[@arnoandersen7012]

@@ConstantijnC I'm going to remove the X-axis assembly - and replace it with the Core-ZX motion system from the switchwire (adapted to the dimensions of the LK5 frame, which I plan to leave unchanged .... I hope)

[@laurentdedobbeleer5542]

best review I've seen in a while. I was 90% sure that I would by this Longer, but now .... Let's check out your channel to see if you have better recommendations in the same price range. Viele danke

[@ConstantijnC]

Thanks! Unfortunately I don’t. I haven’t really dabbled with 3D printer reviews yet, so take my words with some healthy skepticism. But I do still stand by what I said in this video.

[@robertbridges4927]

The design is very much the same as exists on the Creality FDM printers. Same belt pulleys and offset to drive carriage.

[@ConstantijnC]

Yeah, you see it everywhere. Luckily, for smaller, 200mm machines, those angled belts don't make that much of a difference. But the fix is still quite easy and would give those printers a much more professional look.

[@robertbridges4927]

@@ConstantijnC I am not so sure it is that easy. I have a LK5 pro, still in the box, and I have been racking my brain as to how to apply a fix. I don't think that there is enough room inside the extrusion to accommodate a sensible fix. I would be pleased to be proven wrong.

[@ConstantijnC]

@@robertbridges4927 Instead of looping the belt along the underside of the attachment lip on the carriage and fixing the belt to itself using cable ties, the belt should be looped along the top of that lip and instead of cable ties, the end should be clamped to the carriage itself. Just that would already make the angles better. To improve it even more, a square peg could be wedged and/or glued between the lip and the belt in order to push it further into the extrusion. It's a bit hard to explain, but I used the clip at 9:15 as a reference.

[@shludge]

Thank you

[@therestorationshop]

The opening of your video with criticizing the lack of fancy color choice set the wrong tone for sure. The criticism of the extruder drive and extruder itself along with other various failures was spot on. This could be a fantastic printer with very little extra effort on Longer's part. As it is it prints PLA and other rigid filaments fine, at least for awhile. Flexible filaments are pretty much a no go without making the mods you suggested and more. I now have to decide if I send it back or make those mods.

[@MichaelJHathaway]

The criticizing of lack of fancy color was humor. I got a good laugh from it.

[@2003mrdavid]

I have the same printer and mine is very quiet

[@fooman2108]

You are suffering with/from what more than a few reviewers of various products (in various categories), as CHENGLISH....someone who's native language is NOT English translating Chinese into English, then they have someone (who's native first language is ALSO NOT English) translating it back into Chinese for a check of the instructions. So a minor translation error, is then MAGNIFIED by a second incorrect translation.

[@ConstantijnC]

Thanks for not mentioning that I’m also suffering with Denglish (Deutsch & English) 😄

[@BummelCr]

Danke für dieses Video - Ich habe den Drucker "leider" schon (ist mein erster) und bin Mittlerweile auch schon etwas tiefer in die Materie abgestiegen. Danke für die Tipps wie man den Drucker ein wenig verbessern kann. Ich finde er hat bis jetzt trotzdem ganz gute Ergebnisse erzielt. Das mit der Lautstärke ist schon so ein Punkt bei dem auch ich etwas resigniert habe. Das mit der Druckbetthaftung war auch zuerst mein Problem, am besten ist wirklich ein Seitlicher Hieb und das Teil springt ab, wobei sich das Mittlerweile auch nicht mehr so anklebt wie am Anfang. Wegen dem Filament laden, ich halte immer die Klammer auf und Drücke das Filament so einfach manuell rein. Ich hoffe ich bekomme das mit den Upgrades hin. Aber so wie ich das bei anderen Herstellern wie z.B. auch Prusa so mitbekommen habe, ist man da auch Ständig am Upgraden des Druckers..... Trotzdem vielen Dank für das detaillierte Beleuchten. Edit: Was ich noch anmerken wollte, leider geht Longer auch keinen so guten Weg bzgl. der Firmware, da sie sich nicht bemühen ihre Modifikation in Marlin selbst zu integrieren. So ist ein Update leider schwierig. Aber der Support von Marlin selbst für den Drucker ist mittlerweile schon ganz gut. Man muss sich aber eine Custom Firmware auf das Display installieren. Soweit bin ich leider auch noch nicht gekommen, aber das steht auch auf meiner Todo für den Drucker.

[@ConstantijnC]

Ja das mit dem display macht es ein bisschen schwierig... Du kannst den Marlin code von Longer mit dem offiziellen Marlin code vergleichen und das behalten was relevant ist. Ist schon ne weile her dass ich mir den code angeschaut habe, aber soweit ich mich erinnern kann waren es hauptsächlich ein paar separate Dateien die in Marlin dann eingebunden wurden. Den Weg würde ich glaube ich aber gar nicht gehen, sondern einfach den offiziellen Marlin 2.0 fork von Longer direkt nehmen. Das scheint immer noch recht aktiv supported zu sein: github.com/LONGER3D/Marlin2.0-lgt

[@BummelCr]

@@ConstantijnC ich bin mir mittlerweile auf das offiziellen Marlin gewechselt mit aktualisierter Dgus-reloaded Firmware. Das was du vorgeschlagen hast hatte ich schon vergebens versucht, da sind sonnst noch zu viele Dinge geändert in anderen Quellen...

[@ChainsawSquirrel]

You have some valid points, but over all too much whining about fan noise, yea I can buy better fans and prob will, but I bought mine refurbed from longer for under 200 usd so I can fix the minor issues, and still be under the cost of a factory new printer

[@scotts1356]

I have no issues with the sound. However, I wouldn't put in my bedroom, while I'm trying to sleep.

[@GreenGuyDIY]

Another shortfall is the controller and file handling. In these days where so many have tackled the challenge of file handling, these guys are still in the mid-eighties. The controller will only display a limited number of files on the root of the SD card and it does this badly. In some cases, there is a missing (blank) line where a file should be and choosing a displayed file does not always give you the file you selected. In some cases, you can select the blank line and get a file but not necessarily the file you know to be on the card that is not showing up in the list. You can't convince me that Longer software developers have not seen this. It is too easy to reproduce. There are amateurs using open source boards and software who can do better. I give this a D for Do Over.

[@mak3r710]

If you level to close to the bed you get the Effekt as seen in the videos, use a splash of isoprop to get it lose then :D

[@ConstantijnC]

I think the distance was perfect and I also really like how well it stuck down to be honest 😅

[@mak3r710]

@@ConstantijnC I love this surfaces to, and I can assure you if it sticks like in the videos your are a bit to close ^^ if you do this with petg you will ripp the coating of the glas, been there done that 🤘

[@ConstantijnC]

@@mak3r710 I tried PETG and it works fine 😄 no ripping. But thanks for the heads up. I’ll level for a thicker first layer then.

[@gingerkitty1374]

Thank you for the truth. :)

[@SianaGearz]

Remember when Westerwelle told off a BBC journalist? You a fan of his? I find it truly embarrassing when people go "Das hier ist Deutschland, hier spricht man Deutsch" or anything of this kind, very disrespectful of history, to put it extremely mildly. I know you haven't meant it this way, but it rubs me very wrong regardless. The printer is... sloppy. I think it should take quite a while for the bearings in the motor to get seized up under tension in this pulley orientation, but it is sat quite a bit too far out for my comfort. The belt run and the idler choice is unfortunate, but at least non-toothed idlers is something just about every 3D printer manufacturer is doing, Prusa Research included. In case of the more expensive ones, i never understood it. Maybe they expect the idler bearing to seize up, in which case smooth idler will still allow the belt to travel, while the toothed one is instant failure. I have had the smooth idlers that came with my cheapo printer just about seize up, maybe not quite; but the toothed ones i got from a Chinese online retailer seem to be quite a bit better quality? Cost a premium too though. Like i know i should probably get spare bearings from a local seller, as bearings of unknown provenance tend to be a little hit-or-miss, but i guess i can cross that bridge when i get there. The part cooling fan pretty much almost cannot work. The back pressure from the funnel is just too high, that's not a great way to use axial fans. The power supply mains wiring rubs me the wrong way, because they couldn't be arsed to use correct wire colours. Maybe it's a little nitpicky of me, but the standard exists for a reason, to give electricians and service technicians a higher chance to live another day. The green terminal block connectors of unknown provenance are usually garbage. I hope that one is not on the bed, but on the extruder, where it's less critical. Looks like it's the extruder one anyway. No flyback diodes, but then i haven't expected them there, though i would have liked to see them. Fuses? Not sure if sensibly rated, can't see. Not replaceable. Oh well. At least it's something. ISP/SPI header, nice. CH340C looks like, instead of G - hopefully somewhat less drifty, but can be sensitive to weirdness in USB hubs, host ports, probably rare to actually cause issues - most of the more renowned chips like FT232 and CP2102 work the same way anyway, by deriving the serial clock from the PLL off the USB clock like the C-version. The heatsink on the SD-Card socket puzzles me, but then, it won't hurt either. You're pointing at 7002 MOSFET for fan control - it probably won't survive that for long and would load down the fan quite a bit, around 4 Ohm on-resistance. But they probably already have a much more suitable Si2302/Si2306 or similar clone MOSFET on there, for the control of the other fan, and that clocks in at about... let's see, 1.7 cents each off a spool, while the 7002 is about 1.2 ct. There can be routing space issues though on the PCB, and they probably simply don't know that Marlin supports CONTROLLER_FAN and AUTO_FAN features. I don't think i mind the PSU fan, it's probably fine; but the 40mm control box fan and i think it's like a 6000rpm one they have there if not faster, that's quite an abomination, but it's also exactly something you fully expect in a low end printer, unfortunately. At least the air path seems to make sense. There seems little point in adding fan control though, since either the printer is printing, or it's turned off, it doesn't have any sort of LAN remote control or anything of a kind, so adding extra fan control seems like a waste. Besides, i wouldn't want that PSU connected to mains any longer than necessary or when it's out of sight, and i wouldn't want it being completely silent when powered on either, for the same reason. Apropos PSU! There's not necessarily a rule that says the overall frame of the printer has to be grounded, and i personally don't believe in printer frame grounding, because you have essentially anodised alu pieces so it's not even a good protective earth, earth to top of the frame it's probably like 200 Ohm, but near the bottom, it is potentially good enough to short a heater and make it run uncontrollably. As happened to Wanhao printers, where the bed springs ate through the lacquer layer on the PCB heated bed, and the keepout was insufficient, and would short and bypass the control board. The fuses wouldn't trigger, the current is within limits, but part of the bed is heating and the screws heat enough to start burning up stuff. Since you have to remember, all the heaters here use low-side switching, so any stray connection to ground can be a REALLY bad idea. In turn, there's a potential PSU fault in printers of dubious provenance that the chassis of the PSU isn't well connected to Earth, because they shape these aluminium shell pieces when they're wrapped in protective foil, then run nut rivets into them, screw things together, then pull off the foil, but sometimes a piece of foil remains stretched around the nut rivet and effectively insulates the screw which should connect the PSU chassis to Earth. This connection is critical, it absolutely HAS to be connected, or the device is unsafe, as otherwise mains Line can energise the chassis or the outputs in case of a fault! The PSU chassis is here mostly the one implied by Class I standard, as it encloses the live connection, not the printer frame, which encloses pretty much nothing, it's just a bunch of struts, it's effectively open. In the rest of the printer, safety is better realised against PSU faults by bonding the negative output terminal of the PSU to protective Earth as well. Silicone on the nozzle probably isn't an issue, it's not that good of an insulator, and true metal to metal contact is barely possible there anyway due to thread clearance, so there's maybe a little metal to metal contact at one side of the thread, where silicone gets displaced anyway and isn't present in a substantial amount, and where it fills up the rest of the clearance void, it's still better than air that you would find there otherwise. Thermal compound doesn't really work, it burns up above 200°C. PTFE in the heater block area is also something you get to live with in a cheap printer like this, and for the first few hundred hours, with standard temperature materials, it really isn't a problem, works well enough. Easy maintenance too, the Bowden tube probably has a bit of extra length so you can re-trim it a couple times by like 2cm each time, and before it gets too short, you just get a fresh tube and cut it and jam just a short section down in there. I really wouldn't trust them to come up with a metal throat that actually works and doesn't resemble a cheese grater on the inside and has sufficient heat creep prevention, so it's fine that they stick to what mostly works. The glass bed possibly wasn't up to temperature when you printed. What i mean is, the probe is under the aluminium bed, but what you care about is temperature on the top of the glass, which is lower by an unknown amount, and you want it to be above Tg, so the print has an opportunity to shrink after the print is finished, and then the shrinkage forces peel it off. If the bed is slightly too cold, the magic coating and the etched surface promote adhesion, but where would the force come from to unstick the print? It's locked right into the surface texture of the bed. Just a hypothesis, i don't know if true. These bulldog clips have to become extinct. I'm using Ultimaker clamps on mine, but they wouldn't quite work here, they don't span enough thickness. I think other low end manufacturers have come up with better solutions by now. I have a scratch on one of my monitors from when one of the clips decided to go on a distant but rapid journey, but it could have been worse, it was a very grazing angle, imagine if my printer was placed differently and it flew right in, would have easily made a hole instead.

[@ConstantijnC]

Hey Siana, I think I remember your name, but unfortunately I don't remember from what specifically. Anyway, this is awesome! Thanks for taking your time. Regarding Westerwelle and my request for an English translation: The clip of Westerwelle sends shivers down my spine because of how much I have to cringe. That's absolutely not what I intended to repeat. My argument is as follows: When speaking with people of a different country, the language with the closest common denominator is used. The mails I exchanged with ZBANX for example (Chinese marketing agency that sent this printer out to me) were of course in English. They didn't expect me to write in Chinese and I didn't expect them to write in German or Dutch as that would be stupid because English has the best common denominator. But now think about the documentation which is meant to be shared with the German population (or any non-English speaking country for that matter). It's quite sad to say, but there are many Germans that don't speak English, so the "common denominator" (denominator with the best fit) would be German in this case. Considering that they are using some sort of AI translator for the English version anyway, is it really too much to ask for them to do some other translations as well while they're at it? Regarding the back pressure: Yes I wanted to include that, but the air coming out of the funnel was just enough for me to give them a pass. I even tried designing a better funnel, but I failed. Best solution in this case would probably be do ditch the funnel entirely. Regarding mains wiring colors: It's a bit nitpicky, but my entire video was about the nitpicky stuff, so I should have included that. At least the wire runs are so short that they can easily can traced back to their source. Green terminal block connector: I didn't know that there is a QC issue with no-name terminal blocks. Sounds like a repeat of the XT60 debacle we had a while back where no-name XT60 connectors would start fires. As you expected, it's just for the extruder, but I'll keep an eye on it. I have to go now, but I'll get back to this tonight!

[@SianaGearz]

@@ConstantijnC Oh you've seen me right here in your comment section in... let's see... November 2017. Just this short of 4 years ago. Also if you frequent 3D printing and electrical engineering bits of KZbin, you will have encountered me down there as well, though rarely as verbose. Usually English manuals by these Chinese companies are actually done by a real person, naturally with some machine help, but generally someone from the company, they do have a handful people who speak a little English, so that's the quality you get. I imagine if they had to produce 5 or 8 more languages, those wouldn't receive even that amount of attention, and could maybe even end up dangerously misleading. It's extra cost, it's extra liability. If the device picks up steam in a given region, they probably count on the user community to pick up the slack. As to the part cooling, naturally there should have been a squirrel cage fan; but in a pinch, you can insert vanes into the funnel, which will linearise the air stream, reduce turbulence and reduce effective back pressure, it can make a massive difference. The mounting position of the fan is pretty unfortunate for that though. It would even run better without the funnel than stock. What can also help is a horn or bell on the intake side of the fan. I think you may take interest in "Why cooling fans are so hard, and some preliminary testing" by Alex Kenis. Among other things, he shows a design there he called the "Venturi nozzle", not sure if that's right, anyway it's not something i have seen in 3D printing yet, definitely worth exploring. That vid promises a follow-up which never happened, because reasons, and it probably won't until next year. Oh, the brass extruder gear. That's a wear part, it doesn't have to be durable, you kind of expect to get a new one about every 5 to 10 nozzles.

[@ConstantijnC]

The voltage regulator has a 1.5A resettable fuse. I'd say that that's sensibly rated. There are 15A and 30A non-resettable fuses (one of each) close to the power in and bed heater connectors. No flyback diodes indeed. The USB to serial chip is indeed a CH340C. Since I'm forced to live the dongle life, I connected to it using a dongle, which worked fine, but one single datapoint isn't quite significant enough for me to say if it works with all dongles ;) Regarding the MOSFET: I should have done my homework a bit better. I just filtered by voltage and current and picked one. Their software engineer does seem to be quite knowledgable with Marlin, as the original Marlin code has been altered quite a bit. Especially regarding the LCD integration (github.com/LONGER3D/LKxPro-Marlin1.1.9). My guess is that the programming was outsourced or something, so there was no good communication between the different engineers. I like to have fan control for at least the hotend fan and the electronics fan for when I'm preheating the bed and waiting for the heat to fully soak through the frame. Regardless of my poor MOSFET choice, it would still be basically free and would make the printer feel much more premium. Regarding the PSU: I'm not an electrical engineer, but I've had to design my printers in accordance with the electrical engineer of my uni. He was, among other things, adamant that the entire frame had to be grounded and did a whole slew of tests on the printers to make sure that I did a good job. Sure, the resistance of the anodisation is very high, but everywhere where a screw is threaded into the frame, a sufficiently good contact can be expected. The instances where a mains wire rattles out of its crimps and touches a machined or chafed section of one of those profiles is probably extremely rare, but if that happens, this printer will still be totally safe to touch. Regarding the fire hazard: This might be a bit naive of me, but how can PSUs survive if their output is shorted by the frame? Don't they have any protection against that? Silicone on the nozzle is indeed not that big of a deal. I mean... it works fine with the LK5 Pro. It just bothers me on so many levels: - I don't like putting anything on the threads of the nozzle, since, if you take the nozzle out and put it back in, some of that compound can end up inside the nozzle. - Silicone can inhibit metal-to-metal contact. - If they are going through the effort of dispensing a drop of silicone on every single nozzle, they might as well use a drop of boron nitride or something similar. In this case, it's not the material cost of the compound but rather the price of the paste dispenser, or possibly even worse, the price of the poor soul that has to do that by hand that defines the cost of this operation. Trimming the bowden tube is of course not a problem, but figuring out that that's what one should do to fix extrusion issues can be. Especially if the user isn't experienced yet. China is the manufacturing hub of the world. Of course they are able to create nice, shiny parts with good tolerances. There have been and probably still are some bad apples, but I'm sure that they could switch to good, all-metal heat breaks without any major issues. After all, the machined surface where the PTFE tube currently resides also has a very nice surface finish. Lastly, they advertise that this printer can print ABS. It surely can... But only for a couple of days until the tube is degraded and needs trimming. I would reluctantly accept that statement if the heat break was all-metal, but it's not. Regarding the glass bed: Yes makes sense! The clip at the end where Sid tried to take off that golden cube was clearly the most extreme case. That was also the only time where I didn't let the bed soak for 30 minutes beforehand. I'm really sorry for your screen, although it's a good story 😅 I don't really mind those clips, but there are other options, such as the Ultimaker ones. I don't know if they are good. They probably are. And they would make the printer look more professional.

[@SianaGearz]

@@ConstantijnC Yes, regulator fuse might be good, though could be half that at 24V, bed can probably be 15A replaceable and the motor+hot-end+electronics fuse can be... difficult to say, 5A replaceable? I understand why they overrated them, making them permanently installed, given people with smaller fuses regularly set them off by accident, which i should say though, i'd rather have that than the opposite. As to the PSU earthing scheme: i'd actually call that a failure, but i'm a little too used to how it's done in these. Consider, you have 3 equally wimply connections, line, neutral and earth to equally wimpy screw clamps where the earth then goes through solder terminals of known-mediocre reliability, through PCB traces, to a screw, which then at the screw head connects to the PCB and at the tip hopefully connects to the PSU chassis. This isn't good enough, because the earth can become undone and there won't be a tell. What you really want to see is an Earth lug soldered well at the incoming plug, with a robust wire, with a toothed washer, going directly into metal, if at all possible, so the same failure mechanism that might cause the other connections to fail, like vibrations, manufacturing quality and whatnot, will certainly not fail the Earth connection, and it must be trivial to inspect without validating all the other bits. The "whole-frame-earthed" i believe is a commonly used shorthand or misreading which is easier to teach and is usually (other potential faults not considered) safer to follow, but the IEC standard itself has a sneaky wording, that every external piece of metal must be in case of any fault safe to touch, and that the safety is realised by earthing; not strictly that every piece of enclosure is earthed! Sneaky little distinction! Sorry, this goes into esoteric standards lawyering territory, and i don't even have one at hand, so i could be mistaken. From this follows that connecting a Class I device to an unearthed plug is forbidden and would be spectacularly unsafe; but they knew the requirement that every external bit of metal is earthed is unrealistic, like there can be a metal piece of control on the enclosure, like a knob or a toggle switch, where you can't make a good Earth connection to its touchable surface, but it's usually fine because there's so many insulation layers in between. What "chassis" is is also not very well defined. Also often alu extrusion frame printers just don't have a great connectivity through the frame, like 100-200 Ohm, i think you expect things like T-nuts riding on an anodised piece that screws terminate into etc. Also aluminium can always grow a surface oxide layer, so i would very much hesitate to call anything that includes aluminium, rather than say steel, good enough of an Earth connection long term, even if it checks out as excellent at the start of life. Anyway i would say that it's just as adequate to earth just the PSU frame, and then do it properly; and then lay down layers of insulation in the vicinity of the input terminal wiring. What do you mean with fire safety? I don't think these PSUs are necessarily substantial fire hazards in and of themselves - faults kick a fuse either in the PSU or upstream. But as a whole-system, a printer is a fire hazard, any printer, even the best ones. The PSU can be operating regularly and supply plenty of power to fuel a fire elsewhere, you can start a nice proper fire with 200W at your disposal if you let a localised fault heat for a while - you can even do that with much smaller power. Your soldering iron is maybe 50W and that's a fire hazard too, in spite of being exceptionally electrically safe. A lot of printer fires were started by just the tiny little 35W hot-end heater cartridge which was operating regularly, but went on a journey where it detached from its heatsink, which is why we have Thermal Runaway now - but that in turn is a warning system with some protective functionality, not an effective protection, because it is predicated on the MOSFET being in control rather than dead-shorted or bypassed, it would be much better if it also had PS_ON control. The Wanhao case, investigation details weren't published, but there were a dozen vids going around of owners who found that the underside of the bed is smoking, and the mitigation was published, they suggested paper or plastic washers to all users and sent out plastic washers in the mail, and simultaneously changed the heatbed PCB design to implement adequate keepout around the spring contact points. There was also a hilarious vid of the Wanhao president apologising and cutting his business card to demonstrate how to secure the printer against impeding smoke event. What was burning was presumably the epoxy and lacquer layers on the heater PCB, which is of course self-extinguishing and not a substantial fire hazard in and of itself, but what if something more flammable, perhaps not a part of a printer but some piece of clutter you have around it or a piece of print comes in vicinity of the hot spot. Furthermore these printers are still potential shocking hazards, because say unlike your PC, the secondary of the power supply is floating, it's not earthed. Like you HOPE that every piece of conductive debris small enough to fit in the gap between the PCB and PSU chassis will bridge Line to Earth with a thousand times higher probability than it will bridge Line to secondary, provided that PSU chassis is earthed well enough (and it just barely is), but it's also not super guaranteed. These conductive debris are fairly common, it could be a component leg, or just a several mm large clump of solder, it happens. There was one case i investigated which didn't put people in immediate danger, but there was a loose ball-shaped clump of solder bridging the 12V or 24V "+" output of the printer PSU to earthed chassis, which caused 3 replacements of printer electronics and one USB hub, and could have killed something more valuable as well, such as the monitor or the laptop, because the monitor is earthed, earthing a laptop over HDMI, earthing the USB hub, and earthing the printer at the "-" output of the PSU. Putting a barrier material on the nozzle threads seems like a good idea, because it can be very difficult to remove. A little bit of plastic makes its way into the thread and glues it shut. I am using a copper brake grease currently, but this is not great, since at first it smokes, burning off the oil. I am actually looking for something more suitable. As to whether they can make something nicely machined and shiny? Of course they can! But the problem is lack of insight. These companies like Longer, as you noticed, are very very sloppy. They didn't even pay the mind to something as trivial as pulley placement and belt run parallelism. Insightful people are generally few and far between. There's only one of Sanjay Mortimer! They're usually polymaths, they don't have a 'comfort zone', and they're exceptionally good at identifying issues and coming up with solutions, rather than just doing as they're told and collecting the payroll. In EU and other regions experiencing an engineering and manufacturing decay, such people often bum around and are happy to find or create themselves a job that suits them. With China's insane tech expansion in these last 20 years, they are actually needed elsewhere, there's a deficit. They're needed in companies that make serious high-tech factory and engineering equipment, military, aerospace, energy sector, medical and a million more, it would be a freak accident if one found themselves in a cost-shaving 3D printer company and actually found it a good place to work at and would stick around there. So more often than not, parts that end up on the printers are entirely random, whatever was cheap enough, not validated for suitability or quality whatsoever. No, i don't trust companies like Longer, Geeetech and Creality to make a non-PTFE transition section and actually get it right, and they're among the less-bad ones. Bigtreetech (Biqu) and Triangle Labs maaaaaaaybe? A common other extreme is that these sorts of companies, even ones held in higher esteem, rush things to market and then 3 months later, stuff's falling apart, consumer is unhappy, so they mothball what could be an excellent innovation if they just put a little bit more effort into it. (comment too long, part 1/2)

[@SianaGearz]

(part 2/2) The recurring paint points on cheap printers are the Bowden couplings and the extruder. Invariably, the quality of the spring in the extruder is a little insufficient, over time the spring ages and changes shape and becomes permanently compressed, not providing enough of a preload and no constant force, which maybe could be better, or maybe it can't, with all the vibration and stepper heat they have to deal with. After a few months, regardless whether you print a lot or a little, that spring just lets go, being always under compression. If you try to bodge something to add preload, you find that the plastic idler arm in the extruder breaks! Ideally the idler arm is aluminium and there is a preload adjustment screw to compensate the spring relaxation, but there just never is. I honestly don't appreciate that they don't just take the classic MK8 design that works and have to invent something superficially so similar but performing so much worse there. As opposed to the brass extruder gear which is obvious once you look at it that it's done and gone, the spring relaxation is a very silent sort of failure, everything seems normal except you get horrendous underextrusion. BTW i disagree that a squirrel cage fan is louder. Like, at 100% it is, but... with as little performance as you're getting out of an axial fan, you could beat that with a blower fan running at maybe 10-20%, which is borderline inaudible in the grand scheme of noise makers on the printer overall, and when you need to supercool a bridge or something, you get that capability. Now Alex has some thoughts on how to make a less noisy cooling assembly with an axial fan and a bunch of trickery, worth paying attention to.

[@speyerbernd]

Der Schluß von dem Video hat mir gefallen. Endlich mal was auf Deutsch; und ich verstehe plötzlich was. :-D Würde mich freuen falls noch ein Updatevideo kommt; in dem du den Drucker leiser bekommst. :-)

[@ConstantijnC]

😄 erstaunlich dass du trotzdem bis zum Ende durch gehalten hast ;) alle meine Videos haben übrigens Untertitel. Zwar nur auf Englisch, aber vielleicht hilft’s ja! Update weiß ich nicht ob das kommt… ein paar neue Lüfter dran machen und die Drehzahlen anpassen ist ja nicht besonders interessant 😅

[@speyerbernd]

@@ConstantijnC das ist ein Punkt. Vor allem wenn es classisch gemacht wird; wie es auch jeder andere machen würde. Einfach ein paar Nokua einbauen. Aber eventuell bist du ja auch einer der; welcher zu denen gehört, die nicht dem jederman flow folgen. Ich z.B. will Augenkrebs vermeiden und möchte da bei mir keine Noktua trin haben. Dann gibt es Bauweisen von manchen Verbesserungen, die es auch nicht viel besser machen; nur den Klang Abändern. Was mir an deinem Video gefallen hat. Du wahrst offen, knallhart erlich zu dem Produkt. Das heißt; auch mal das negative dieser Maschine aufgezeigt. (Zumindest meine ich saß so mit meinen übelst schlechten Englisch Kenntnissen so verstanden zu haben) 😅🤷🏻‍♂️🙈 So könnte ich mir Vorstellen, auch eine genauso erliches Video des Updates zu erwarten. 🙃

[@mishatagavor]

Couldn't we replace ourselves almost all of the shortcomings with better parts and end up with a nice quality long lasting printer?

[@ConstantijnC]

Yes, but that’s the case with almost all of these kinds of 3d printers. I got a bit emotional because it just felt so incredibly lazy. Longer had to take the beating unfortunately, but all those other „ender 3 style“ printers probably would have had it just as bad. They’re treating the consumer like an idiot who wouldn’t notice their design shortcomings or blame future issues on the consumer themself.

[@tab8k]

Please use de-esser.

[@ConstantijnC]

Will do 👍

[@FrenziedTanates]

Idk about anyone else but for me everything after the petty complaint about the color not matching the packaging kind of tainted every other comment you made. Still this was a very informative review.

[@MichaelJHathaway]

It was a joke, lol

[@FrenziedTanates]

@@MichaelJHathaway well when people watch reviews they don't want jokes, they want to know if what you're reviewing is worth spending money on.

[@ConstantijnC]

@@FrenziedTanates As you can tell by my upload schedule, I don't take this whole KZbin thing too serious. I can see how that comment tainted it a bit, but I think it's a good thing. It's basically telling the viewer right at the start that I'm incredibly biased, so the cards are on the table at that point. I'm glad that you could still get some information out of it and thanks for your input. You're not the only one who's saying that, so I'll think about for future videos. I'd actually like my future videos to become a bit more lighthearted and just have more fun with them. Not sure yet how to put those seemingly polar opposites together.

[@codyparker6118]

Wow bud I should tell you As a consumer of many 3-D printers, I got six of them. Anyways always look on the SD card. If you’re plans aren’t complete that’s the rule of thumb and if you don’t understand that you’ve not been in the game for a very long, sir.

[@ConstantijnC]

it was the first one that I didn't design myself. my expectations were way too high.

[@codyparker6118]

Reading that today made me think it mite have came off like I was trying to be an assh##@. I’m sorry for that That was not my intentions. Anyway, have a great day.

[@ConstantijnC]

@@codyparker6118 that’s super nice, but it’s really no problem! I understand how my video would attract comments like yours. In fact, you were far from the only one, so I’ll change my recipe for future videos

[@TaskSwitcherify]

You seem super knowledgeable and funny 🙂 Perfect qualities for a design consultant. Have you considered working with 3d printer manufacturers to help them make better products?

[@ConstantijnC]

I'm not sure about that... who would want a consultant for 3D printing? All the information is literally one Google query away 😅

[@TaskSwitcherify]

@@ConstantijnC Same for personal development and self-help, home repair, law, fitness, etc., yet people pay tons of money for those trainers and consultants. Think about it! 🙂

[@VICTORYOVERNEPTUNE]

I want quiet as much as possible.

[@chain3519]

Mine was definitely loud

[@sinandonmez7490]

I think it is too loud. But it was a cool Video 👍🏻

[@hrc247]

Everyone has their opinion but I’ve had this printer for months and most of the non printing criticisms are completely bogus. Sorry

[@ConstantijnC]

No, that’s great to hear! Many people took issue with my assessment. In hindsight, I still would have recommended people not to buy, but I shouldn’t have been so hard on the company and this printer. I’ve put around 500-1000h on it and it’s been running very reliably, apart from the ptfe lining in the nozzle which started charring as expected and the belts on the x axis which started tearing themselves apart in a way I didn’t see coming. The tensile members kind of pulled themselves out of the neoprene… super strange. Both issues were easy to fix though. Will do better in the future 👍

[@magnushurtside3234]

"Got it for pretty much for free" . I'm going to go ahead and bash every single thing about it because it's not salmon color.

[@ConstantijnC]

I agree, I was pretty harsh. I'm super fed up with the state of cheap 3D printers and I used this printer as a representation of the entire market segment. Regarding the price: If I would have taken the fact that I got it for free into consideration, then this video would have been even more worthless to you... Regarding the color: I thought it was a funny joke, but you're not the first one to criticise me on that. Was it really that bad?

[@MichaelJHathaway]

It is a professional review and they sent him the printer to criticize everything. It wasn't harsh, it was right on spot.

[@larrypatterson7290]

For the price it is a great printer not everyone has access too a 1000.00 for a printer you are definitely spoiled

[@bufordmaddogtannen]

Yes, let’s translate the documentation in 12 languages. I’m sure the price will stay exactly the same... 🙄

[@ConstantijnC]

Let’s sell it in 12 different countries without translating the documentation… 🙄

[@bufordmaddogtannen]

@@ConstantijnCthat's exactly what they do to keep costs down. The only way to have documentation in multiple language without having an impact on the cost of the printer is to crowdsource it, so if you want German you better start translating yourself. The points about the printer were all valid, except for the very French approach of "in this country we don't speak English". Before thinking about German there are a few languages besides English that would take precedence: Spanish, Chinese and (maybe) French. You are smart enough to understand why by yourself.

[@ConstantijnC]

@@bufordmaddogtannen Most people in Germany speak English. That's not the point I'm trying to make. The official language of Germany is German however, so if they want to be part of the German market, they should at least have German documentation. The costs play no role. Their English version is clearly done by a translation app. There is no reason why they couldn't have done the same for the other languages whose countries they are selling to. For a better result they could have had someone from fiverr proofread it for the price of two beers. Now the big one: At least in Germany it's mandatory to ship potentially dangerous products with German instructions (source below). Not doing so counts at least as a breach of competition and can get much worse if something happens to its users. I know that I was very hard on them, but to me, translated instructions are important, regardless of the legality. source translated by google: www-gesetze--im--internet-de.translate.goog/prodsg_2021/__3.html?_x_tr_sl=de&_x_tr_tl=en&_x_tr_hl=de&_x_tr_pto=wapp

[@bufordmaddogtannen]

@@ConstantijnC that's all fine and dandy, and yet someone would have complained about the poor automated translations. Would you also like a TÜV certification for free? 😉 I understand your reasoning, still you cannot have everything. Knowledge of local laws would need to extend worldwide. That's not something that a company that saves 5 cents on a bearing can offer. Sad, but true.

[@ConstantijnC]

@@bufordmaddogtannen Yes, I would have complained 😄 but I would have left my complaints off of the internet because it would have been too nitpicky. For the same reason I didn't publicly complain about the english translation. I would take a free TÜV certification any day, but unfortunately, that isn't free. Google translate is free and it's better than no translation at all. In Germany we say "Dummheit schützt vor Strafe nicht". It means the law doesn't make exceptions for people who don't know any better. But it seems like international companies are allowed to play by different rules...

[@ChainsawSquirrel]

Yea the paper manual is crap, the video is much better

[@CookGoBang]

Really I waited the whole time to hear something bad and your only complaint is the fan…….pathetic way to get a view.good way to get a comment I guess smfh

[@ConstantijnC]

Hm you must have missed my other complaints…

[@olafschermann1592]

Mal ne kritische review, danke für die Offenheit

[@steveaaron5371]

Good review but too much cursing 🤬. Very unprofessional.

[@ConstantijnC]

Thanks, but I guess it’s just a cultural difference. In Germany we’re encouraged to fucking curse as much as we want 😉 it’s a form of self expression

[@MichaelJHathaway]

I found your video to be very fucking professional. I love your culture. Hold nothing back!