Sleeve Fitting: Shoulder Slope vs Forward Shoulder

[@J-UK62]

Great tips. Thank you soooo much. You are my ‘go to’ library for adjustments. Couldn’t do without you 😊x

[@JSternDesigns]

That makes my heart happy to hear! Thank you for fitting along with me

[@deborahritchie7951]

It's my slope not my forward shoulder! I've been looking for this adjustment...thank you so much!

[@JSternDesigns]

Happy to help! Thanks for watching

[@lenalawkoroi3423]

Found very helpful for Sevin-Doering system of sleeve fit for kaftan style 👗 👍

[@JSternDesigns]

Glad it was helpful! Thanks for watching!

[@Hausfrauenglueck]

I do really enjoy and learn so much from you! Very grateful!

[@JSternDesigns]

I'm so glad! Thanks for joining me!

[@fredericachrist7573]

If you need to do both a forward shoulder and sloped shoulder adjustment, which should you do first? I’m guessing the forward adjustment?

[@JSternDesigns]

Yes, forward shoulder first... Since I made this tutorial I finished a new series.... "Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting" This is a streamlined approach to fitting that starts at the top of the pattern pieces to fit the neck, upper back, chest and shoulder (in the blue zone) before moving down to fit the rest in the pink zone. I have a pdf companion that goes along with it if you like written instructions... Plus, I'm teaching a 3 week zoom class on June 1, 8 & 15th if you're interested in that.... Here are the links to these things: Part 1 Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting: kzbin.info/www/bejne/nX_Wd6BuqcR5btE Efficient Work Flow for Bodice Fitting Zoom Class: jsterndesigns.com/product/efficient-work-flow-for-bodice-fitting-zoom-class-june-1-8-15/ Hope this helps & thanks for fitting along with me

[@nancygross9422]

This was very interesting, thank you so much!

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks! and thank you for watching

[@annethompson9154]

You explain everything so well thank you so much.

[@JSternDesigns]

Thanks so much... and thank you for watching!

[@kimbankston4486]

Thanks for the video. I'm looking really forward to your video on forward shoulder ball. Question, why don't you adjust the underarm as well? All the fitting books have you do that. So if you raise the shoulder tip by 3/8, you should be raising the underarm 3/8. I actually the entire armhole out and slide it up to maintain the armhole, then redraw the shoulder seam. This is the first time, I've seen someone alter the sleeve instead of the maintaining the armhole.

[@JSternDesigns]

That's a really good point. If the armhole is pulling up because of the slope of your shoulder, adding to the tip of the shoulder will allow the armhole to relax back to it's proper position. If the base of the armhole is not being pulled up by the slope of the shoulder, then yes, you would have to raise the base of the armhole as well. Thanks for fitting along with me!

[@janettechapple6542]

How do you adjust the sleeve cap for a forward or backward shoulder adjustment?

[@JSternDesigns]

The overall length of the armhole isn't affected, it' s a matter of shifting the shoulder notch forward or back. If you did a forward shoulder to push the seam back... the notch will need to move back. You can walk the pieces to find the new position. Here's a tutorial showing how to walk the sleeve cap along the armholes kzbin.info/www/bejne/eIjFqaqQic-ca7s

[@robynlaszlo6128]

Thank you so much

[@JSternDesigns]

My Pleasure! Thanks for fitting along with me

[@barbaraferron7994]

Where is the link for the tank top video?

[@JSternDesigns]

Sorry for the delay in answering you... I was referring to a Tank Top Class I was teaching at Fabric Mart... There isn't a link to that. But recently, I did do a Live Stream showing how to make a full coverage tank top... kzbin.infoyMru8PUS0T0

[@sheiladevin6034]

When lowering the shoulder point do you need to also lower at the underarm the same amount?

[@JSternDesigns]

That's a great question! Because you are lowering the sleeve cap along with the shoulder, it may not affect the base of the armhole. If the base of the armhole feels too high, you can trim it a little bit to make it comfortable.

[@lindadevuyst9311]

Question: if one shoulder is sloped more than the other by 3/8 , is it better to adjust the underarm seam so you don’t have to have 2 different sleeve patterns OR not?..love your demos, very easy to understand..thanks

[@JSternDesigns]

That's a great question. I think it depends on how much work you want to put into it. If you are striving for the perfect fit, I would go with the two sleeve, and shoulder angles approach. If you're looking for comfort and flattering, you may be able to get away with splitting the difference... adjust the slope of the shoulder half the amount... one will be a generous 1/8" too sloped and the other will be generous 1/8" not sloped enough... Think about how long an 1/8" is... I'm guessing doing this might be a good answer.. .Let me know what you think, thanks Jen

[@lindadevuyst9311]

@@JSternDesigns turns out that my discrepancy is 1/2 inch 😳 making it a bigger problem. I’ve gone with two bodice patterns, a left and right and dropping the underarm . Thanks Jen

[@starcloudwings9908]

So you would look and know what the problem is, but how do I know what my problem is holding a commercial pattern?

[@JSternDesigns]

It's hard to tell what the pattern is going to do before you try it... If you cut out the pieces and make a muslin...that's when you can see what your fitting issues are. If you need help figuring out what's wrong with the muslin, email me photos at [e-mail] and I'll help you figure it out. Thanks for watching

[@abbasobe4590]

The more I watch these, the more I realize I don’t know what I’m doing. I’ve been sewing for over 40 years and because my daughter wants me to sew for her, I am trying to learn how to fit. She wants me to make a wedding dress. I have several items I now have to fix because of not fitting. Your videos I have seen seem to address a lot of issues that I am having. Looked at the pattern review site. Not sure where to start. I wished I had seen the tank top class sooner. Will this be offered again? Any help where to start will be great.

[@JSternDesigns]

How about starting with a tee shirt dress? I’m teaching this class in May with Master the Art of Sewing. You can work on a knit dress with or without sleeves… I think that might be a good starting point. Here’s a link to the class. Let me know if you have questions! mastertheartofsewing.com/knit-tshirt-dress.html

[@texasproud8822]

Great info. Thanks

[@JSternDesigns]

Glad it was helpful! and I'm so sorry for the delayed response.