Small Hive Beetle Barrier, it is easy to make and inexpensive.....

This idea of using a flange inside the hive sprayed with NEVERWET will control and keep the Small Hive Beetle out of your hive for good, giving you 24-7 hive protection. I'll show you the tests in the video. There is also a great tip on screened top vent protection from Hive Beetles at end of video. Please Subscribe and Like my channel it helps a lot, If you wish to donate for these money saving ideas click on this link; www.paypal.me/... Thank You.

[@DothanAntelope]

Mr. Willard. You have $$ headed your way! I am a 3rd year Beek and have struggled with beetles something fierce. I am in North Central Alabama. I have switched to a “ Freeman Style” bottom board and added your strips. Went in my hives today and not a single beetle! This time last year, I was already struggling with a significant SHB investation. Thank you so much for your contribution to the bee keeping community.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Tim, Thank you and I glad its working in your hives. I have some news that I wanted you and others to be aware of, I have found out that the spray can kits of Neverwet that I used originally is being chewed off by the bees, mine lasted over two years before the bees cleaned them off, some hives really cleaned the barriers off and some hives just removed a little of the Neverwet coating. I have some additional info from Rustoleum about an Industrial Neverwet that is 20 stronger than the spray can and I have been making some changes to my hives that will help and will share in an upcoming video very soon. The spray can kit does work as you and I know but it just won't hold up long term against the hive cleaning habits of the bees.

[@paulluna45]

Just like anything there are those who will make their own but there are those who want the convenience of not having to build or make anything. It is good that you made everyone's job easier in regards to hive beetles, whether you sell them or we make our own, we thank you for your hard work.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Paul, You welcome, make sure you watch all the updated videos on the design changes and the improvements made to this idea.

[@kosmow2013]

Because of the electrolysis, forgo the staples and merely angle the metal 90 degrees for a quarter of an inch, and have your measurements adjust to the 3/8 overhang to the inside of the super brood box then rip a groove down the bottom center of each board to fit a single or double bent piece of the aluminum flashing. No staples and no erosion to deal with, ever. The bees shouldn't have a working space underneath which is brilliant thinking, and the bees are not hampered by the ledge flashing? I'm up for some sharing some ideas...happy bee keeping to everyone who shares without always looking for a reward. Some things money can't buy... And the best often comes that very way more often than not. Good wishes for you and thanks for sharing this grateful information about saving the bees.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Thanks for the info. I have always tried to come up with the simplest and most efficient approach to any project that I do. There is always room for improvement on anyone's idea and a dozen different ways to use Neverwet against SHB, good luck and have fun with yours.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hello, For those of you who wanted to donate for this idea and more coming up, my Pay-Pal account is; [e-mail] Thank You in advance........

[@dallassmith1006]

WOW, this gives me hope again! I'm a newbie and I lost my hive due to SHB. The larvae destroyed everything in 2 days. I had so many mistakes that helped them thrive! I put the hive in the shade. I had a top vent without window screen to keep them out. I added a honey super to soon and spread the bees out to thin! I'm going to Lowe's to get these materials, try building the strips and adding screen wire on the top! Thank you so much. I want to promote this video to everyone!!!

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Dallas, These Neverwet coated flanges will help you keep the hive beetle out and take the sting out of losing those expensive hives. My now 60 hives are in the shade more than 50% of the day so whoever came up with the idea that hives had to be in full sun to control the hive beetles was wrong. My thought is that if a hive is "cooking" in the sun that means probably half of the forger bees are getting water to cool the hive down. I Keep my bees healthy, safe from hive beetles, cool and comfortable so they can spend all their energy on raising brood and making honey. Good Luck with your bees.....

[@vladimirshtundyuk5529]

Yes, it works!!! Thank you Mr. Willard!!!

[@jeffwillard2417]

Your welcome and good luck with your bees..

[@kyamasaki9477]

Great video, so informative and methodical! We are having such a problem with hive beetle infestations in our hives in North Carolina. Looking forward to trying your method.

[@howardtoob]

This seems like a great idea and I may try it. What I am really looking for is something that will capture the small hive beetle as it enters the hive. More specifically something that will capture the beetles, torture them, torture and kill all of the beetles family members and then deliver all the captured and tortured beetles to me directly so that I may spread them out on my driveway and urinate on them before slowly squishing them under foot. Do you think you could come up with something like this?

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hello howardtoob,It sounds like you like the Small Hive Beetle as much as me. You can always make up a Beetle vacuum like in the video, then you can do what ever you want to with them.

[@hben44]

Honestly, I understand not selling this product because your a good guy and you don't want to charge us bee keepers more money, but when it comes to the upkeep of my beloved bees money is not an issue. I would pay for this great idea and the fact that it isn't on sale is more discouraging than anything. The customer is always right! If you want my advice, do us all a favor and sell them for Pete's sake. PS. love your videos man keep up the good work

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hello hben, I have been asked this before and I have thought about selling them, I believe now I am going to. The ones that I will be selling will be made with the industrial grade Neverwet coating same stuff but 20 times tougher material and is only sold in gallons. I"ll be doing another Neverwet video explaining what I have discovered in my hives. Since the Neverwet coated barriers have been in my hives for almost two years longer than anyone else, I have had a longer time to test and experiment. Stay tuned they are coming............

[@karenaviva]

Yup! Sign me up!

[@jeffwillard2417]

Watch the last Small Hive Beetle and Neverwet video with live hive beetles, this one shows the unbelievable results....... kzbin.info/www/bejne/hKHIhWOVf8aBqbM For your polyethylene foam tape needs this is the best place to buy it. . www.equalseal.com/White-Polyethylene-Closed-Cell-Foam-s/2187.htm I have started to use the 1/8" thick x 1/2" wide with great results. This eliminates any spaces between the hive body, supers and vent top where the beetles can get in.

[@johnstevens1192]

Gday from Queensland Australia. I just came across your video today and I think it is a great idea. I am only just starting out with my 1 hive but i am making some more hive boxes to increase my bees to 3 or 4 hives. I have been reasonably lucky so far with SHB but still have a half a dozen or so each time i do an inspection. As it is so reasonably priced to get the never wet product on eBay i am going to outfit my new hives and my existing one asap. You have done a great service to the beekeeping community wordwide if it works as good as it seems to. I hope those same beekeepers can show their appreciation by giving a little back. Thanks again mate. All the best.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi John, Thanks for watching and don't forget to subscribe and like, I've got more videos on this Neverwet idea and new ones coming out. The SHB can not walk on this material but I have been making improvement videos on the installation of these Neverwet coated barriers. I am now experimenting with a stronger material and a new way to install them. Watch all the videos to get all the updates for hive protection. Good luck with your hives...

[@Kafue]

Many thanks Jeff Willard! Really appreciate you sharing the ideas.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Your welcome, I hope they help..

[@jeffh1591]

I love this idea and the succinct and no nonsense way you present it. I'm going to make one this weekend. Thanks for figuring this out! Donation headed your way. (Jeff Willard, 6255 Little Bits Trail, Milton Florida, 32583) One small nit; If you google "Galvanic Corrosion" and open the Wikipedia link you will find a table that shows plain, non zinc plated steel is a better coupling to aluminum (only 0.05 volts difference) compared to the coupling voltage of stainless steel to aluminum (0.45 volts). More voltage = more corrosion. Use of a stainless steel staple (cathode) will, over time, corrode the aluminum (anode). If zinc plated steel staples are used they will give up their plating fairly fast (Zinc is more anodic than aluminum) and will leave the steel exposed to the elements to corrode at the normal rate. The best compromise would be to use non-plated steel staples with aluminum, but to seal the staple using paint.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Jeff H, I'm glad you liked the video. The flanges do repel the Hive Beetles but even I am still fighting with the small gaps here and there on the vent tops and hive bodies. Moisture appears to be the culprit, I have been experimenting with foam seal tapes, I have been using white polyethylene closed cell adhesive 1/8"thick x 1/2wide" between the supers and hive body and Frost king gray vinyl foam tape 3/16" thick x 3/4" wide on the vent tops. Give the edge your going to stick the tape on a coating of 3M contact adhesive for some extra bonding, these two foam tapes appear to be doing the trick. I got the polyethylene from Amazon and the vinyl from our hardware store. Thanks for the info on the corrosion ratings between stainless and plated staples. Good luck with your Bees.Jeff Willard

[@mattpeneguy7812]

Hi Jeff Willard, Thanks again for all your hard work and sharing this idea with us! Just to clarify this a little, I think Jeff H has a point about galvanic corrosion. However, things are not always as simple as what one expects. I had lengthy discussion at work about bolting aluminum together with stainless fasteners, and the conclusion was that it was okay, but the reverse is not okay. One big consideration is the area difference between the two metals. If you used aluminum bolts with stainless plates, there would be a failure in a very short time. So, to make a long story short, because there is so much aluminum versus stainless, it shouldn't be a problem. Scroll down to the plating compatibility chart: www.fastenal.com/content/feds/pdf/Article%20-%20Corrosion.pdf And let us know if any of your staples or connections fail. I'll do the same. BTW, you answered my question in my previous post and I have bought the closed cell foam tape, and it seems to be helping with the SHB problem. Thanks for that tip, too.

[@cecilcrump2340]

Jeff Willar

[@remodelassets6523]

Jeff, Makes much sense in what you explained. I guess one could spray the staple clips using Bin shellac based sealer, let dry before loading into the staple gun. Thanks for your input.

[@jonathanspangenberg1563]

Do not have bees of my own yet, but am slowly gearing up for the challenge. I appreciate your effort and time. I loved your video, great presentation throwing the wrong products away and punctuating with the paper cutter. I plan on building off of your success and learning anything I can. I am a new subscriber. I am a poor new land owner with more projects than money; otherwise I would love to donate to your cause. Thanks, for your effort and love to educate.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hello Hairpin Mountain, Thanks for watching and I'm glad you enjoyed it. Make sure you watch the newest design changes of the Beetle Barrier 2.0, it solves the problems of the original design. Good luck with your bees when you do get them.....

[@pcdubya]

I like the beetle vac idea, when looking through the hive and seeing 3 or 4 walking around and trying to get them with a hive tool without crushing comb, that looks like a good idea, have to try that, thanks.

[@jeffwillard2417]

I even made one that is battery operated to suck up Fire ants in the Neverwet VS Ants video but when I used it in the hives for SHB I had to paint it white because the noise and black plastic was really pissing off the bees.

[@NikiCanotas]

Some of us would happily buy them

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Niki, Thanks for the offer, I have been asked for this in the past but they are very easy to make. Watch all the videos because there have been updates and changes to the original design.

[@akbychoice]

Great information. I’m not in the bed keeping but that’s awesome information. The Never Wet is great for so many applications.

[@jerrystell2252]

Awesome 👌

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Jerry, Make sure you watch all the Beetle Barrier videos, they show the improvements and design changes. I'll be making another one showing the 2 year testing done on the prototype rims with the hardware cloth so stay tuned....

[@sabrinadaisybess]

Thank you SO much!!!! This is SO helpful!!!

[@jeffwillard2417]

Thank you and Happy Honey Hunting.......

[@newatthis50]

You have a great mind sir

[@jeffwillard2417]

Thank you Mary Ann, I try to help everyone..

[@stagename9231]

Hi Jeff, thanks for the prompt response. I'm currently looking through peer reviewed articles about flight and hive interaction of SHB. Your explanation of the behavior of SHB inside the hive makes complete sense to me...but I'm not an expert. I will gladly share any information that I find. Also, I am starting two new hives this spring. I plan on fabricating your flanges and installing them per your instructions. Top screens also installed. Based on past experience, we should see a measurable decline in SHB population this summer. I will keep you and your subscribers informed. Definitely will compensate you for the R&D. Again, thank you for your team-effort disposition.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Mmmm, Thank you and please keep the bee community informed of any additional information you find. I know that the Neverwet coated flanges will work in your hives as well as they have in mine. Just make sure you caulk and seal the hive above the coated flanges, if you haven't watched them yet, check out the "update; small hive beetle excluder" videos. In these I explain some additional problem solving while using the flanges. You'll see in update #2 I still have almost zero beetles in my 31 hives two years after their installation. I have one last video about these Neverwet coated flanges that will leave the bee community amazed what these coated flanges can do, I should have it done and on you tube this week. Good Luck with your bees.

[@rrobinson3738]

Nice grab Mister. Prayer for you!

[@jeffwillard2417]

Thank You....

[@tillerbeez6575]

Fantastic outcome. If get the time and material to apply to my hives you can count on a donation.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hello Tiller, Make sure you watch all the update videos on this idea, I've changed some things and improved on others. Just find them on my You-Tube channel..

[@martinklawinski2933]

Great idea Jeff. If SHB show up here i will try it for sure. Thank you very much.

[@jamesnolan9651]

ok thank you for the quick response

[@so_cal_mom]

I am definitely going to try this. Thank you!

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Linda, Make sure you watch all the Beetle Barrier videos on my You-Tube channel, there has been updates and improvements.

[@richardhaen]

Very good video, I am going to try it thanks

[@jeffwillard2417]

Watch all the videos because there have been updates and changes to the original design.

[@SquirrelsForAll]

Great video, thanks for posting. Really brilliant idea.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Thank You.....

[@MacnbeesApiary]

Thanks Jeff

[@beehappywoodworkingandhone439]

oh just to add. I use the metal tape to seal boxes together. it is very weather proof. it's 2 inch wide and it really seals them up then when removing supers you just run your finger nail thru it. just a thought for you on sealing the boxes together.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Thank You.

[@kenvandenberghe4504]

Jeff Willard y

[@samsungtv4u]

thank you for your time ill will try it

[@jeffwillard2417]

Your welcome and you'll be glad you did.

[@alaaaliahmed3893]

Thanks brother nice video

[@MetaView7]

Thankyou

[@smportis]

I also am going to try the approach to spray a large sheet and then cut into strips. Will report back on effectiveness.

[@jeffwillard2417]

You could spray a whole sheet, I've seen people talk about doing it that way. My only concern with that method is the Neverwet adhesion on the cut edge, it may hold up I just don't know. I thought that coating the whole strip at one time would allow the maximum adhesion of the Neverwet on the flange edges. You can always try some to see if it works. Remember, sometimes doing it right the first time is a lot easier than doing it twice.

[@Tappedline]

Thanks and I am going to try it on a top bar

[@jeffwillard2417]

Your welcome and give this idea a try for your hive. kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y6OxoIBqr5VlpZI

[@GarretB123]

Love the vids Jeff! I'm a new bee keeper and all my hardware is new, so I will be a step ahead in cleaning before adding the flanges and tape!

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Garret B, I hope this helps you and everyone in Beekeeping, I lost a bunch of hives to the hated Small Hive Beetle but not anymore. Thanks for watching..

[@GarretB123]

I hear they are horrible here in NW Arkansas. We have had a very mild winter and I won't be surprised if it's not a bad year for them. I have a couple of the Freeman Beetle Traps on order. I wonder if I could apply the flanges on them? Probably would help the beetles fall to their doom easier perhaps...

[@jeffwillard2417]

As that old saying goes; It never hurts to try....

[@f.demascio1857]

I've got to try this. SHB are out of control in VA.

[@natserog]

well done...will try this!

[@jeffwillard2417]

Make sure you watch both update videos there is more info on sealing the hive against the hive beetles...

[@trichard5106]

Beetles walked right across !

[@jeffwillard2417]

If the Neverwet is sprayed on per the kits instructions and there wasn't any problems during the coating process it is impossible for the hive beetles to walk on Neverwet, as proof watch this video; kzbin.info/www/bejne/hKHIhWOVf8aBqbM

[@trichard5106]

I think that I needed more top coat. Sprayed one more coat and I think its going to work. Thanks

[@jeffwillard2417]

I'm glad it is working for you, I'm here to help my fellow Beekeepers....

[@mescalp]

sweet idea jeff. thanks for sharing.. I made some aluminum strips like you did on my bottom board and then on my bottom hive body and noticed a decrease in my hive beetle population. I will now try and get that paint from rustoleum and make it slicker. Thanks for the tip.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Thanks Mike, It works.... Good luck.

[@tomterry3758]

Hi, Jeff, thanks for all your research!! I also like the way you showed all of the different methods you tried that didn't work. You presented your findings super well in your video. Most of us need to take an idea all the way to the extent you do and then share it. It is too bad some of the extension people don't do some of this research. I am also wondering if a beetle baffle in the front of the hive made with your metal strips might work or of rain x-- the stuff my wife likes to use on her windshield wipers might work. Yes, it looks like I have a little research to do myself. Hive beetles are a big problem in that they take up a lot of bee time in our area. Yes, one could wait until bees become hygienic enough to combat them, but that takes up bee time that I want my bees to do other bee work, not mess with beetles.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Tom, I'm not sure what you mean by a baffle in the front of the hive. When install as in the video the Neverwet coated flanges protrudes inside the hive 3/8" continuously on all four sides with overlapping corners. The rain-x, I believe is a silicone based water repellant for glass that is not a permanent coating, Neverwet is permanent and non-toxic. But as with all inventions there is always room for improvement, but with no hive beetles inside my 40 hives I don't think I'm going to change my design, plus its cheap to make.....

[@tomterry3758]

I guess I was trying to tie your success with the beetle baffle where an opening near the front of the hive where the beetles trying to crawl under the hive to get into the hive would just slide off into a waiting moat of oil and the bees could step over it and into the hive. I just don't like the idea of having a pan of oil under the whole screened bottom. I am about to make some bottom boards so I will try it and if successful, I will send you pics (might be next year though for testing). I am encouraged by all your experiments on your method. The screened bottom is supposed to help with ventilation and varroa mite. To help answer other's questions on beetles flying up onto the hive from the bottom board, it seems that their take off is a little too haphazard for very short distances. They seem to take flight and then orient themselves to land on their feet and it doesn't work for them on very short distances. Thanks again for your work on this issue.

[@beeman1350]

The Small Hive Beetle can fly so what prevents them from just flying up and over the flashing where your bees are I mean that's how they get to your hives is by smelling that alarm pheromone and flying right to your bee hive. What stops them from doing so? Maybe I'm missing something. Really like to know.

[@jeffwillard2417]

All research shows that the hive beetle will fly miles to your hive but once inside they hide and only crawl along the inside edges and up into the combs, but I guess you could always have that one mutant hive beetle out of a million that would fly inside the hive. The beetles can't crawl on the coated flanges so it keeps the hive beetles trapped on the bottom board to die of old age or be killed by the bees. I hope this helps, good luck..

[@beeman1350]

Thanks

[@PeterTysdal]

Will try this. Our hives were devasted by these beatles, nine hives down to two. Tragic.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Peter, This really "WORKS" but I can not stress enough to caulk the seam between the bottom board and hive body and use polyethylene foam tape between hive, supers and vent top or covers. If you leave any opening above the Nevercoated flanges the beetles will get in. Now in my hives I can't even find enough Hive Beetles to perform the tests that I did. This is were I buy mine...... www.equalseal.com/White-Polyethylene-Closed-Cell-Foam-s/2187.htm

[@PeterTysdal]

Thank you!

[@gachalifeweirdo4547]

Hi Jeff, Is there a reason you couldn't put this on the front of the hive to stop the beetle actually entering the hive completely. My bottom board is stuck to the brood box as one attachment so l'm looking for an alternative.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Robyn, I had thought of an idea for a long hive that someone had and he made a CAT design video. It is like a anti chamber that is a box with the Neverwet beetle barriers on the inside with a mesh bottom and solid top, here is that video; kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y6OxoIBqr5VlpZI Your other option would be to fasten a device like the Beetlejail, there are sites to make these also. Good Luck..

[@JamesCrouchX]

Line inside walls BELOW bottom screen, slide in disposable foil cookie sheet with a layer of mineral oil. Remove the mite count board. Anything thing with legs, that falls through the screen ideally remains trapped in oil. Anything that misses the oil won't be able to crawl up sides. Flying. Ugh. Takes more energy to fly. Maggots don't fly.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Many people have used an oil trap and it works well with the Neverwet barriers. Good luck..

[@mortuaryreport]

any reason why we can’t spray the flashing while it’s in one piece and then cut the strips after the steps have dried?

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hello, You could but I was worried about the adhesion of the Neverwet on the cut edge. Make sure you watch "ALL" the videos on this Beetle Barrier, it has evolved and there is new info on refinishing the aluminum.

[@Dave-jc6ky]

I was about to install the second set of hives and realized I accidently installed the flanges on the first slatted racks downside up with the NeverWet coated side facing up towards hive frames instead of down. The Neverwet coated side is supposed to face down towards the bottom board correct? Can't believe I did that but oh well so much for being in too much hurry.

[@SurvivorDiet]

Thanks for all of your hard work and time that you put into this beetle excluder. Question for you: I use a top bar hive and I was wondering if you have any ideas that may work for the top bar hive community to exclude these pests. Thanks again Jeff.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Well as a matter of fact I do. Bob Spencer in Gulf Breeze FL. was kind enough to make a video of my design of an entrance chamber for a top bar hive that I gave some thought to. Bob was going to adapt it to his AZ hives, here is his video kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y6OxoIBqr5VlpZI and here are my design measurements; To make a mini bottom board attach a 3/4" high rim to an 10" wide X 6" deep bottom along with a 3" landing pad. Then make a 2" high upper compartment with a solid top cover, the 2" upper would give you enough material to drill or slot an area to mate up to the hive opening. It will also have enough room for the bees to crawl over the Neverwet coated flange or fly into the hive entrance but dark enough so the beetle won't fly inside the mini bottom board. The Neverwet coated flanges would be attached the top of the 3/4" rim on the side and back and then attach the 4th coated strip to the front of the 2" top compartment, just like in the original Neverwet Excluder video. Have Fun.......

[@davidgeyer8390]

Once the bees start to gum it up it will probably be useless?

[@jeffwillard2417]

They don't propolize the barriers but the house cleaning bees try to remove the Neverwet. Watch all the videos that show design changes and surface prep.

[@MrDicey01]

Would be great if you made a drawing to show what you’ve done .

[@jeffwillard2417]

You'll need to watch all the videos to see how this design has changed.

[@mattpeneguy7812]

Jeff, Thanks for all your good work! This is very clever and I have modified our two boxes accordingly. It occurred to me afterward, it would may be easier to cut out the profile of the hive body from 1/4" or 1/2" plywood, then add the never wet strips to the plywood cutout. Then take the brood box off and place the shim under the brood box. That way if it gets damaged, it is easily removed, inspect and replace. What do you think? Maybe for a big operation, it may be too time consuming to create the plywood templates? Also, you mention sealing up with epdm. Can you point me to where in your videos you are using this to seal your hives? We are still getting SHB's in and I have identified a couple of locations I want to seal. But, I don't want to use the caulk if I should be using the preformed gaskets.

[@michaelgonzales9662]

How long does the coating last before you have to recoat?

[@jeffwillard2417]

I've made more update and design change videos on this. The spacer designed worked the best, you may have to recoat every 1-2 years.

[@kosmow2013]

After researching the paint, there's a cheaper version of it in using rain guard on glass and I'm going to see if it works...a 3/8ths wide piece of coated glass should do the job as well as the higher priced variety. I'm also thinking about using a piece of aluminum to stick the glass on and extend it outside the brood box to deflect the rain away from the base. I've already put angle flashing on the lid to direct the rain away from the entrance to the hive and the rear of the box in order to keep it dry during rainy weather. If it works well I'll post it here.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Wm, I think you'll find out that Rain Guard isn't the same as Neverwet but good luck with your experiment, you never know how it will turn out until you try.....

[@lewiscleveland4661]

Shim the backend of your hive up 1/2" any driving rain will drain out even when it rains sideways.

[@daleglasshess2923]

Jeff, So the 1/8" hardware cloth sits right on top of/against of window screening? Why not staple them down together at the same time? Or do the screening and 1/8" hardware face each from opposite sides of the square frame? Dale

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Dale, Sorry if I didn't word that explanation correctly in a previous comment, you do staple the window screen and 1/8" hardware cloth down together on the vent frame bottom with a single row of 1/2" stainless steel staples (I like using stainless) spaced about an inch apart. The aluminum window screen is the outer layer and the 1/8" hardware cloth is the inner hive layer. Spray contact adhesive on the outer screened frame edge, let dry and then attach the polyethylene foam tape to the screen. You now have a hive beetle proof screened vent top. This is how I do mine, rip a a 1"x 6" or 1"x 4" board down to 1-1/4" wide, from that board cut two 16-1/4' and two 18-1/2" boards. Lay the 18-1/2" boards on their 3/4" sides then take the 16-1/4" with the 1-1/4" sides standing up glue and nail to 18-1/2" board ends. Now you will have a square frame with 1-1/4 on the ends and 3/4" on the sides. Then attach screen as explained, I hope this helps.

[@daleglasshess2923]

Yes, thanks!

[@psyched1231]

Jeff, I presume that you're putting the hardware cloth over the screen to protect it. I just replaced some screen door screen with this pet screen from Home Depot: www.homedepot.com/p/Phifer-36-in-x-84-in-Black-Pet-Screen-Kit-with-Spline-and-Roller-3025886/205001783 I was very impressed with its toughness. It's 7 times tougher than window screen and tight enough to keep the beetles out. So tough that pets can't scratch it and put holes in it. What do you think of a layer of this tough screen instead of the two layers of metal screen?

[@frankmccowan361]

this sounds great... one question though.. why the metal strips...is it possible to just spray the neverwet directly onto the inside areas of the bottom board and the inside of the lower area of the bottom super??

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Frank, It might, but the wood will expand and contract with moisture and the bees are always cleaning the inside of the hive. I wanted a solid flange barrier inside the hive that forced the beetles to crawl over, which they can't because of the NEVERWET coated bottom surface. Thanks for viewing...

[@deepseawrath]

+Jeff Willard can the Beatles walk on the neverwet if it's on the bottom? I'm referring to the bottom horizontal edge of the upper entrance slot on an inner cover. can they walk over the neverwetted metal as if it's on the ground?

[@jeffwillard2417]

All the flanges are sprayed with Neverwet, attached to the bottom board with the Neverwet facing downwards towards the bottom of the hive. This will creates a barrier that the Hive Beetle can not walk on and get into the hive. "BUT" you must make sure there are no other points of entry above this barrier, cracks between hive body, supers, vents and tops or they will get in through these areas.

[@davidpittman2296]

Rust-Oluem has stoped making never wet. What can we use now?

[@MarcellaSmithVegan]

Both Home Depot and Walmart have it, just google. Here's Walmart - www.walmart.com/ip/Rust-Oleum-274232-Never-Wet-Multi-Purpose-Kit/171078609?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222227092172278&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=214512007667&wl4=pla-316640096870&wl5=9023906&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=171078609&veh=sem&gclid=CjwKCAiAgqDxBRBTEiwA59eENztcsZnrvVuYNFuBTJpsYXxeC_GCSPhpDfuXb9QoiFaL7u2RRWLkdhoCr6IQAvD_BwE

[@wendyborders2779]

Hi Jeff, this is exactly what I have been looking for- I am sending a contribution now. One question: if you have a screened bottom board, why do you say that the trapped bees die of old age or the bees kill them- won't they fall thru the wire?

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Wendy, The Hive Beetles won't just fall through the screen bottom but they can easily crawl through it, especially when the bees are chasing them. The Hive Beetle will always be attracted to your hive that's in their DNA but the Neverwet coated flanges prevents them from crawling up into the hive to live and lay eggs. I say this all the time, you must seal all cracks above the coated flanges or the beetles will find a way in. Use the polyethylene foam tape I have listed above it works great and makes the whole hive sealed and beetle proof. Thanks for the contribution and good luck with your bees.

[@euromo7]

Can't they just fly up instead of climbing on the walls?

[@jeffwillard2417]

The beetles will fly to your hives but only crawl once inside the hive.

[@Dave-jc6ky]

Hi, when you mention the staples would you mention the type of staples? Are they considered narrow crown? What is the width and or length of the staples. They are supposed to be stainless steel staples correct?

[@jeffwillard2417]

I use the T-50 staple, Arrow Fastener 508SS1 Genuine T50 1/2-Inch Stainless Staples. I also bought an air staple gun from Harbor Freight and that has sped up all my stapling jobs on the screened top covers and bottom boards, I liked it so much I bought 2 when they were on sale.

[@Dave-jc6ky]

Thanks for the further input on the staple size etc. I believe I have an electric T50 stapler from Harbor Freight actually but they have an air nailer stapler on sale right now and I will investigate further to see if it can use this size and type of staples. Thanks again for the input and this idea to provide a barrier to the hive beetles

[@Dave-jc6ky]

Sorry but I am a bit confused regarding the staple size as Arrow says the don't have a 1/2" x 1/2" stainless staple.

[@jeffwillard2417]

This is what I use..... Arrow Fastener 508SS1 Genuine T50 1/2-Inch Stainless Staples, 1,000-Pack....... LINK TO: www.amazon.com/Arrow-Fastener-508SS1-Stainless-000-Pack/dp/B000OMJWNA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498244757&sr=8-1&keywords=arrow+508ss1

[@Dave-jc6ky]

Ok thanks! I see those are a 3/8" crown vs. 1/2" that is what was throwing me a bit. I was looking for 1/2" x 1/2" my mistake! Thanks for your patience with the questions and I really appreciate the info and this great idea for the shims with regards to the hive beetles.

[@beehappywoodworkingandhone439]

Jeff love the idea. I am going to try this as soon as I can. destroyed my shoulder at work. I use raised bottom boards with 1 1/2 -2 inch holes for my bottoms. that raises the brood box by 1-2 inches. the bees seem to really like these bottom due to more natural opening I guess. they will sometimes add a small strip of burr comb. no problem. I wondering if the open space if the SHB can just fly up. with the more open bottoms I have notice way way fewer SHB in those hives. may be because they have to fly the distance and don't. don't know. but I'm going to do this on my nucs and old bases. good luck and see you on the forum beemaster's and welcome on board. I'll contribute as soon as I can. we need to help each other all we can. divemaster1963.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi John, Small Hive Beetles are not suppose to fly once inside the hive but I'm sure there is always that one mutant hive beetle that does not act as normal as the rest of them. Your bottom board sounds interesting. If you can take a picture of it and post it on Beemaster, Bee Keepers are always interested in something new and works.. Thanks..

[@bobfelix7452]

I work in Printing and have access to aluminum plates. Any reason I couldn't use them for the metal strips?

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Bob, Those type of aluminum plates should work, if is is a soft aluminum (low tensile strength) just be careful not to distort the coated flange when putting your hive box on and make sure it is clean before spraying. Its also a good way to recycle aluminum, have fun....

[@GarretB123]

Just made some of these. Just to be clear, the Neverwet is sprayed on one side only. The Neverwet side is facing down on the bottom board as well as the strip on the front of the hive body, correct?

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Garret, That is correct Neverwet coating is facing down and you paint the bottom side only. Your on your way to be in the "No Hive Beetle Club" Good Luck.....

[@restfocusandrelaxation1867]

Thanks for sharing this info. Great video. I'm wondering what your thoughts are on instead of stapling to your bottom board. Stapling all strips to the bottom of your brood box. (When I add boxes i do so from the bottom I do not add to the top.) So If I keep adding to the bottom then eventually all my boxes would have these flanges. If I go 3 high then all boxes have flanges and if I have beetles on top level and they go down to the 2nd level then theoretically they can't go back u to the 3rd level. They can go down to the 1st level or stay at 2nd level. Eventually though I think they would get trapped at first level and being forced out of the hive. what do you think of that? Also would you recomend sugar dusting once your flanges are put on?

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi George, It may work but it may be overkill also. If you have several hives try your idea out on one or two to see how the bees react to it and if you see a decline in the Hive Beetle population. The only problem I can see is that on some of my hives the bees will fill in the gap between the upper and lower frames with comb which would be like a super highway for the Hive Beetles to get into the next upper box. The biggest problem to solve after the coated flanges are installed is the gaps between the bottom board, hive body and supers. A little moisture will cause the boxes to swell creating gaps that may have not been there earlier, which become an entry point for the beetles. I have experimented with many different foam weather strip tapes to eliminate these gaps and I now use polyethylene foam tape 1/8"x1/2" between all my hive bodies, supers and vent tops.(link listed below) I also caulk the gap between the bottom board and hive body. The sugar dusting is more for Varroa mites than hive beetles, for that problem I use an oxalic acid vaporizer and Aprivar strips. Good luck with your bees and have fun with them. .

[@jeffbeedy4574]

I can't find the link to your vent boards. So the sides are a different height than the front and rear? Do you put the screen cloth on one side and the steel mesh on the other or do you put it on top of each other on the same side? Also will regular foam tape work to seal it all off?

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Jeff, I tested four different kinds of foam tape and polyethylene foam tape works the best. I haven't made a video on vent tops yet, but here are the plans. Rip a a board down to 1-1/4" wide, from that board cut two 16-1/4' and two 18-1/2" boards. Lay the 18-1/2" boards on their 3/4" sides and take the 16-1/4" with the 1-1/4" sides up and glue and nail to 18-1/2" board ends. Now you will have a square frame with 1-1/4 on the ends and 3/4" on the sides. On the bottom attach the window screen first then the 1/8" hardware cloth use 1/2" staples all around the edge. Spray contact adhesive on the outer screen edge, let dry and then attach the polyethylene foam tape to the screen, you now have a hive beetle proof screened vent top. I have these on all my hives. Here's the link to the foam tape; www.equalseal.com/White-Polyethylene-Closed-Cell-Foam-s/2187.htm

[@jeffbeedy4574]

Thanks so much! I am going to check this out and if it works, I will be sending you a donation.

[@jeffbeedy4574]

what width and thickness is the tape that you use?

[@jeffwillard2417]

I am now using the 1/8" thick X 5/8" wide polyethylene foam tape ..

[@Dave-jc6ky]

A friend that has metal working tools asked me what the gauge of aluminum strips did I need. Unfortunately I wasn't certain so I needed to ask if you suggest a given gauge of aluminum material for the strips. Also given he had some pre-painted aluminum I assume baked on pre-painted strips, that they can't be used unless one side is bare aluminum. Is this observation correct?

[@jeffwillard2417]

I used rolls of aluminum roof flashing 16" and 20" you would have to look up the gauge but its paper thin and high tensile. I would think a pre-painted aluminum would work as long as its sanded and cleaned, I would do a test strip to make sure of the adhesion of the Neverwet to be sure.

[@AbsintheOnYT]

what if you use a slatted rack, could you simply put these all the way around the bottom of that and nothing on the bottom board?

[@jeffwillard2417]

That should work also, as long as you have that Neverwet coated flange as a barrier between the bottom board and hive body almost any configuration will work to keep the hive beetle out of the frames and comb.

[@WholefoodFarmist]

Hi Jeff. Would your system work with less work if the NEVERWET was sprayed on the aluminum flashing then wrapped around the hive stand legs. I have my hives sitting on 2x6's that are supported by 4x4's 18-24" off the ground. If I were to take the flashing, sprayed with NEVERWET and wrap the 4x4's just below the 2x6's would this accomplish the same thing your doing without having to make a flange for each hive. I'm thinking of wrapping the 4 legs then spraying the NEVERWET on after installed. Thoughts?

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hello Wholefoodfarmist, Wrapping the legs would stop all ground "crawling" insects, unfortunately the Small Hive Beetle flies to your hive. The Beetle then crawls inside the hive and hides, it then migrate up into the frames and comb. The Neverwet coated flanges stops the inside upward movement of the beetles, keeping them trapped on the bottom board away from the comb. It really isn't that much work, I found it was the easiest to make up several bottom boards with coated flanges and hive bodies, then just transfer the frames and bees into the completed Neverwet flanged hive, then repeat the process, in no time at all you'll be done. You can then stop worrying about hive beetles. But, like I tell everyone you "MUST" seal and close every crack above the coated flanges or the beetles will find a way in. I use 1/8"x1/2" polyethylene foam tape between hive, supers and vent top or covers to close up any spaces with great results..

[@daveblackstock7837]

I see that you place the NeverWet aluminium flange horizontally so that it acts as a barrier. Have you tried placing the NeverWet flange vertically on the sides of the risers or on the sides of the supers in the Hive?? If the beetles cannot walk across the flange because of the Rustoleum NeverWet surely they will not be able to cross it anywhere in the hive?? It will allow for easier installation.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Dave, If the coated flanges were put on the vertical sides of the hive it would be a barrier for both the bees and the beetles inside the hive. If the coated flanges were put on the 3/4" riser of the bottom board this leaves the corners as a problem spot, the beetles could possibly grip the rough edges of the cut flange in the corners and gain access to the hive. My design places the flanges on top of the 3/4" riser on the bottom board which creates a coated ledge that overlaps in the corners, which the beetles can not cross. This will keep the beetles confined to the bottom board to be killed by the bees or die of old age. Once you start installing these strips you'll realize that it really isn't that difficult.

[@lonnieburford7649]

Jeff Willard Could a piece of flashing be placed between your concrete block and 4x4 post of a hive stand and coat it with neverwet? Kind of like termite flashing under a house. Do you think this will stop SHB, ants, and cockroaches?

[@markwelsch1619]

Are you testing the 20 times stronger NEVERWET to see if the bees will chew it off too - and how long it will last in the hives?

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Mark, The delay happened because I wanted to pull off the honey supers before installing these new beetle barriers so I wouldn't have to handle the honey supers twice. I hurt my back in the process and had to heal up so that is were the delay came from, it is no fun getting old. I had numerous people e-mail me asking for close up views of these new beetle barriers so am going to do a construction close up video today and install the barriers tomorrow morning before it gets to hot. Thanks for asking.....

[@markwelsch1619]

Thanks Jeff!

[@jeffwillard2417]

Your welcome Mark..

[@lewiscleveland4661]

@@jeffwillard2417 around here its get everything done before it gets way to hot. I think the heat and humidity killed me twice today.

[@jeffwillard2417]

@@lewiscleveland4661 I hear ya brother, the older I get the tougher it is for me to work in the heat also.

[@chuckfromla]

Is there an effective alternative to Neverwet, since it has been discontinued? The only other hydrophobics that I see are for fabric or high-dollar.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Craig, It is still available just put Neverwet in your search browser and about a dozen places to buy it pop up. Make sure you watch all the videos on this there has been improvements made. Good luck..

[@DanMartinHuman]

Hi Jeff, thanks for the video. I hope you're getting donations. Question, and I think someone else asked also, once the SHB gets inside the entrance and is let's say on the center of the screen, what's to stop them from flying straight up into the hive? as i understand it, the excluders are only on the 4 sides, but directly above is open frames. on the same note, i suppose the bees do exactly that... walk into the center of the screen and fly straight up into the frames? or do they stand up and grab/climb onto frames from screen. thanks

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Dan, Actually, I have not received any donations for the idea. From all the research done on the hive beetle, once inside the hive they only crawl along the bottom edges trying to hid and then migrate up the sides into the combs. The Neverwet coated flanges stop the beetles upward movement, keeping them confined to the bottom to die or be killed. Flying inside the hive would exposed the soft body tissue under their wings and make them more of a target to the bees.

[@DanMartinHuman]

crazy. well i'm not sure if we're going to go this way or a full sheet of aluminum with circles/dimples cut out. i'm just worried about them flying. either way, you're video game me the idea and helped me understand so we will be sending something. sorry no one else has that's how it is always though.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Thanks, Dan

[@lindsaypurdy6576]

I can't seem to find your video of the screened vent top. Please help. Thank you.

[@jeffwillard2417]

I Lindsay, The use of window screen was at the end of the video but the construction is very easy. Rip a a board down to 1-1/4" wide, from that board cut two 16-1/4' and two 18-1/2" boards. Lay the 18-1/2" boards on their 3/4" sides and take the 16-1/4" with the 1-1/4" sides up and glue and nail to 18-1/2" board ends. Now you will have a square frame with 1-1/4 on the ends and 3/4" on the sides. On the bottom attach the window screen first then the 1/8" hardware cloth use 1/2" staples all around the edge attach polyethylene foam tape to the bottom. You now have a hive beetle proof screened vent top. I have these on all my hives, I have more videos planned stay tuned.... Good luck with your bees and Happy Honey Hunting.

[@aremedyproject9569]

You need to put a link to your PayPal account in all your descriptions. That way folks can donate super easily. Cheers.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Thank you, I'll look into that link.

[@FloryJohann]

OK, now you have a way to keep most if not all of the hive beetles out. Does this keep bees out of their hives also? Or can bees climb on this product?

[@jeffwillard2417]

The bees climb over the Neverwet coated flanges like its not even there. The bees have never had any problems getting up into the frames and comb and the new queens are always back in the hives after their mating flights. This is what I have experienced with all my 50 bee hives.....

[@FloryJohann]

That is very good news. Is this the product ? www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-NeverWet-18-oz-NeverWet-Multi-Purpose-Spray-Kit-274232/204216476 They make so many different Neverwet products for different applications. Thank so much for your fast response.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Yes, that is the material multi-surface Neverwet I always used the semi-transparent but it does come in colors now. It will dry to a dull rough surface. Check Amazon, Tractor Supply, E-Bay for the lowest price. I found some at Tractor Supply one time on clearance selling for $5.99 a kit, needless to say I bought 6 of them.....

[@FloryJohann]

Thank you.

[@stagename9231]

Jeff, not to be flippant, don't SHB fly? The adults are strong fliers and can disperse to other beehives easily. Beetles are also thought to travel with honey bee swarms.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hello Mmmm, You are absolutely correct SHB do fly but only to the hive, once inside they will only crawl. SHB does not want to expose themselves to the bees inside the hive by opening their elytron and flying, with their wing covers closed they are like little indestructible tanks. That is why the coated flanges work, they can not crawl over the Neverwet coated flanges. Good luck with your bees.

[@smportis]

Mmmm Yumm Also, his follow on videos are proving the absence of beetles inside his 31 hives so I guess they are not flying inside. Yet. Give them a couple years to evolve. But until then...!

[@jonathanwulwick684]

i have tried this method and i do not know for sure if it has worked in the beginning because there were still beetles in my hive. but i do know that after 3 months the bees have propolized the never wet coating and the beetles can walk right accross it. any ideas on how to stop the bees from propolizing the coating??

[@jonathanwulwick684]

Jeff, I am waiting for a response from you if you don't mind. I have tried your idea and have closed up all the holes. I have not had success and would appreciate some help. Please. Thank you in advance. Jon

[@Jordanandkristasmith]

Do the bees have any problems getting in the hive with the NEVERWET on the flanges?

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hello, The Neverwet coated flanges do not effect the Honey Bees movement inside the hive at all but it sure stops the beetles from getting in.

[@MacnbeesApiary]

Why do you use window screen and hardware cloth

[@jeffwillard2417]

The 1/8" hardware cloth is stiff enough to stand up to burr comb without bending when your removing the top screen cover and the window screen is small enough to keep out the hive beetles. Hive beetles can crawl through the 1/8" hardware cloth but not the window screen. I see hive beetles all the time crawling around on top of the window screen but they aren't getting in.

[@stevo67channel]

Thanks Jeff - SMB are a problem for me in sub tropical Australia. Are you convinced that SHB can only climb inside the hive and not jump or fly?? Also what is the minimum gap between the flanges anf the bottom of the frames. I guess I am struggling to believe they can't just hop up onto the bottom of the frames. Cheers Steve

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Stephen, All research states that the hive beetle does not hop or fly inside the hive, they only crawl and hide then migrate up into the comb and frames. I never measured the gap between the flange and the outer frames but I believe its about 3/4". The Neverwet coated flanges stops the hive beetle from crawling up the inside of the hive and it keeps the beetles trapped on the bottom board to die or be killed. "BUT" I can not stress enough that you must seal all cracks and openings above the coated flanges, or the beetles will find a way in. I caulk the seam between the hive body and screened bottom board. I then use 1/8"x1/2" polyethylene foam tape between the hive, supers and top, it is the only foam tape I found that was strong enough to hold up. As I stated in the video, I have cleaned up my share of a maggot mess. I was looking in my 40 hives a few days ago and the only hive beetles I saw were the ones on the outside trying to get in. You should still use bait traps, oil traps or anything that keeps the "outside" beetle population down. I've always wanted to say this.....G'Day Mate and good luck with your bees..

[@kayleneclark3109]

I would like to send you something for your time but I can’t focuses enoughto see the address

[@natserog]

Hey Jeff...ya gotta market these...$$$$$$$$$$ ill be your first customer.

[@jeffwillard2417]

I had once considered doing that, one guy wrote and said he had calculated cost per hive to make his was .85 cents. Being a Beekeeper is an expensive and somethings frustrating hobby. My thought was Neverwet flanges helped me immensely so why not pass it on and help everyone, money isn't everything but it is nice to have just enough......

[@natserog]

well if you ever want to make some side money...let me know. I need 35 for my 10 frame deeps and 35 for my 35 nucs. I am a horrible carpenter. I live in Texas and they are so horrible here. --thanks! :)

[@jeffwillard2417]

Thanks for the offer but I will give you my super simple screened top cover directions. Staple the window screen and 1/8" hardware cloth down together on the vent frame bottom with a single row of 1/2" stainless steel staples (I like using stainless) spaced about an inch apart. The aluminum window screen is the outer layer and the 1/8" hardware cloth is the inner hive layer. Spray contact adhesive on the outer screened frame edge, let dry and then attach the polyethylene foam tape to the screen. You now have a hive beetle proof screened vent top. This is how I do mine, rip a a 1"x 6" or 1"x 4" board down to 1-1/4" wide, from that board cut two 16-1/4' and two 18-1/2" boards. Lay the 18-1/2" boards on their 3/4" sides then take the 16-1/4" with the 1-1/4" sides standing up glue and nail to 18-1/2" board ends (air nailer makes this easy). Now you will have a square frame with 1-1/4 on the ends and 3/4" on the sides. Then attach screen as explained, I hope this helps.

[@olddansbees2072]

Great job, now do you think the never wet would work to keep ants out of hive, by using a small sheet of flashing with never wet inch or larger than a cinder block, put between two blocks with a wood 10' stand on top of top blocks ?

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Danny, It will work 100% ants can not walk on Neverwet either. I would make it so there is a 2' overlap flange on the block, just in case any debris blows up against it giving the ants a bridge to your hive. Let us know how this works for you, I am sure other people have ant problems.

[@daveb4126]

Hi Jeff, Aluminium flashing in Australia comes in 6" and 12" at our Local Hardware stores. Please can you let us know what thickness the aluminium flashing is that you use??

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hello Dave B, The flashing that is sold in the USA is a high tensile material (hard to bend) and depending on the manufacturer the thickness it should be (in inches) .0084 and .0092 our rolls come in 10' and 50'. You could use the 6" and 12" but you would just have to cut it lengthwise to 20" and 16". I have seen some videos from Australia about the hive beetle there and it looks like your having a some big problems like we are. Make sure you seal up "ALL" cracks and seams above the Neverwet coated flanges our they will find a away in, use the polyethylene foam tape between the boxes that I have listed above it works the best. Good luck with your bees.

[@martinklawinski2933]

I am a sailor and we use monel to do conections aluminium/steel. I do not now the english name of this aleation but i doubt that there are stables available. Perhaps it can be done with rivets too? Replacing it when it begans to fall apart could result cheaper anyway.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Martin, If the monel material is to thick to staple, you could always pre-drill the strips and use small 16 gauge stainless nails.

[@martinklawinski2933]

Hi Jeff, it seams i did not explain well. We use a rivet of monel tu prevent or reduce corrosion of the aluminium part on boats. As i mentioned before it is not important because your treated aluminium stripes are easily and cheap to change. Now i saw a lot of videos about SHB and they are really disgusting. I can´t understand why your method is not used comercialy. Greetings and happy beekeeping from Germany, Martin

[@OBG1952]

Jeff, good stuff and a big thank you from coastal South Carolina where SHBs are a constant menace. You have a beautiful apiary. I'm keeping 14-16 colonies on half an acre in suburbia with enough available forage. Would you share your basic geography and what you perceive provides enough forage for your 31 colonies?

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hello James, Thank you and it would take several pages to list all that was in bloom here in N.W. Florida. As the crow flies I live a 1/4 mile from the Yellow River so my bees collect from numerous blossoms and flowers that range from Gallberry to Tupelo and every flower and blossom in between. I was busy grafting and splitting hives this year and reached my limit of 60 hives, which is more than enough for one person and some days I think to much for me. Next year I'll see what the honey production is on the hives and determine if there is enough nectar for all my hives in this area or if I need to move some..

[@janisbelcher4038]

Hi again, Which big box store did you get the Rust-O-leum from? I have tried Lowes and Walmart. They do not carry the product you are showing. They do have a never-wet product, but it is in a spray bottle...not in a box with two aerosol spray cans.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Janis, Unfortunately my area Lowes and Home Depot stopped carrying it also after I made the video. I now get mine at Amazon, I have seen it at Tractor Supply also. The spray bottle is a fabric water proof conditioner you want the spray cans,. They come with two cans to a box with a step one and step two spray can.

[@DothanAntelope]

Mr Willard. I am in the process of getting ready to put this in my hives. I am using a “Freeman” style bottom board with 1/8 inch wire designed to allow the beetles to drop into a pan of soapy water or lime. My questions: could I spray the never wet on the wire mesh and that way the SHB couldn’t crawl around the wire? Thanks in advance and I plan to contribute to your site soon.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Tim, You really don't need to spay the 1/8" wire mesh it would actually be a waste of the Neverwet material. The bees will chase the SHB around enough for the beetles to fall or crawl through the mesh to escape and hopefully to their soapy or oily doom.

[@darrylsmith5699]

I’m just looking into beekeeping and I want to use a horizontal hive. Have you put any thought into rigging a barrier for on of these hives

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Darryl, I thought of a entrance to attach on these types of hive and the person I spoke with made a video about my idea here is the link; kzbin.info/www/bejne/Y6OxoIBqr5VlpZI You might also be able to use my ideas for the Beetle Barrier mounted on a wood rim in the most recent videos on this idea, Good Luck with your bees...

[@Dave-jc6ky]

Would you happen to have a picture showing how the Neverwet strips look/fit on the inside of the hive body. Especially in the front of the hive where the one strip was installed on the bottom? Also do you use the polyethylene foam strips between each hive body section that sits on top of the typical brood box on the first layer of the hive that sits on top of the screened bottom board?

[@jeffwillard2417]

David watch these; kzbin.info/www/bejne/aXWQn554ictlrtU kzbin.info/www/bejne/fX6zgmWsfN2jbqc

[@Dave-jc6ky]

Thanks for your time in sending the links!

[@Dave-jc6ky]

I have been considering the use of a slatted rack and am wondering if you have ever used them and if so how this impacts the placement of the Neverwet strips. I believe the slatted rack typically is located right on top of the bottom board.

[@jeffwillard2417]

I don't use them but people have written to me saying that they have stapled the Neverwet flanges to the bottom of the slatted racks and spacers that they made. As long as the coated flanges are located at the top of the 3/4" rim of the bottom board, that is where they are the most effective.

[@glenngodbee1882]

Which "flavor" of the NEVERWET do you recommend, or is there a difference? In researching, I find it comes in Gray, White, and Frosted. Will any of these work?Thanks!

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Glenn, I always get the Rust Oleum 274232 Never Wet Multi Purpose Kit which dries to dull opaque finish I never used the white or gray, here is a link from Amazon. www.amazon.com/Oleum-274232-Never-Multi-Purpose/dp/B00DNQBFAW/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1490056356&sr=1-1&keywords=rust-oleum+neverwet+multi+purpose+kit%2C

[@glenngodbee1882]

That's the "Frosted Clear" flavor. Do you coat both sides of aluminum or only the "down" side? Since you were cleaning both sides, I would assume that you cover both sides. Thanks!

[@jeffwillard2417]

You only clean and coat one side and that side faces downward toward the bottom board....

[@glenngodbee1882]

Thanks for clearing that up. One more question: Assuming that your dimensions for the vent screen are for 10 frame hives, what dimensions should you use for an 8 frame hive?

[@jeffwillard2417]

The length would be the same but the wide for an 8 frame should be 13 3/4". Rip a a 1"x 6" board down to 1-1/4" wide, from that board cut two 13 3/4" and two 18-1/2" boards. Lay the 18-1/2" boards on their 3/4" sides then take the 13 3/4" with the 1-1/4" sides standing up glue and nail to 18-1/2" board ends. Now you will have a square frame with 1-1/4 on the ends and 3/4" on the sides. The aluminum window screen is the outer layer and the 1/8" hardware cloth is the inner hive layer. Staple single row of 1/2" stainless steel staples (I like using stainless) spaced about an inch apart. Spray contact adhesive on the outer screened frame edge, let dry and then attach the polyethylene foam tape to the screen. You now have a hive beetle proof screened vent top.

[@gtison2942]

Do the bees propolise the metal with the never wet on it?

[@jeffwillard2417]

No, the Bees do not build comb or propolis on them. The metal strips in my hives are just as clean now as when I installed them. You have to make sure "all" cracks and seams are filled, sealed and closed between the hive body, bottom board and top. The Excluder Strips will stop the Hive Beetle at entrance and the bottom board.... Good Luck.

[@sabrinadaisybess]

Would there be any benefit to spraying the 8" hardware cloth on the bottom board with the Never Wet?

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Sabrina, No, there is not any benefit to spraying the 1/8" hardware cloth screen bottom. The Neverwet coated flanges are more than enough to keep the hive beetles out of your hive. I say this all the time, you must seal all cracks above the coated flanges or the beetles will find a way in. Use the 1/8" X 1/2" polyethylene foam tape between the boxes. I have the link listed above it is tough and works great, it makes the whole hive sealed and beetle proof.

[@sabrinadaisybess]

Thanks for the quick reply :) I'm a new beekeeper, and one more question...the foam tape ' between' the boxes, does that make it hard to get into the supers for varying reasons for management? I cannot see the link for the foam tape, I went to Equalseal's website and I don't know if it is the one-sided tape or 2 sided???

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hello Sabrina, Just make sure the edges of the box that you are going to adhere the tape to is clean, scrape off all propolis, wax and other bee junk. The foam tape is adhesive on one side only the other side has an almost smooth waxy feel and and that side really doesn't adhere to a clean surface. That is why you have to clean both sides the first time. When you have to open the hive slide your hive tool in and pop it loose, If you damaged the tape or the bees chew it out (some hives will, some won't) it is easily replaced. here is the link; www.equalseal.com/White-Polyethylene-Closed-Cell-Foam-s/2187.htm Good Luck

[@janisbelcher4038]

Hi, Jeff, Thank you for this video. I think I am going to try to put these on my existing hives....just need to figure out what to do with bees once I take off bottom board to put the flanges on. One question about the foam tape. I have some weatherstrip seal foam tape (3/4" x 1/2" thick). Could I use that between the super and brood box and on the top of the top board to keep them from coming in under the top?

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Janis, When I did my hives they all had bees in them. I smoked them first, pulled out the hive staples out and pulled the hive body off the bottom board. I sat the hive right next to its original position and the bees just come and go like they didn't care if the bottom board was on or off. Now, you will get those hives that are mean and full of piss and vinegar, those require "extra" smoke. Staple the flanges on, (put 1/2" staples every 2" apart on the entrance flange) hammer in the hive staples, caulk the seam between the bottom board and hive, your done. The foam seal that you have is probably the open cell gray sponge material, I wouldn't use it will absorb water and rot your hive, it has to be closed cell polyethylene. I am now using the 1/8" X 5/8" foam, Here is the link to were I buy mine, www.equalseal.com/White-Polyethylene-Closed-Cell-Foam-s/2187.htm It sounds complicated to install the coated flanges on existing hives but once you do that first one you'll see that it is quick and easy. Good luck with your bees.

[@jamesnolan9651]

After spraying my strips they dried a slight milky finish. it still repels water but I am worried if it will still work. what color did your strips dry?

[@jeffwillard2417]

That is the way it dries, a dull, rough and off white color....

[@jamesnolan9651]

the directions state to put 2-3 coats of step 1 and 3-4 coats of step 2. HOw many coats of each did you use?

[@jeffwillard2417]

I gave mine 2 coats of the 1st stage and 3 coats of the 2nd stage..

[@LOCKBEARD]

Does Never Wet affect the Bees?

[@jeffwillard2417]

Not at all, but watch all the videos on this because there has been design changes and surface prep updates.

[@Dave-jc6ky]

Ok so I expect the answer seems obvious but I assume for the strips that go on the top edges of the bottom board and the bottom of the hive body that you cut 2 strips @ 1 1/8"x16" and 2 strips @ 20" x 1 1/8" for the 4 strips is that correct? I am double checking as I have someone that is going to cut the strips for me and I just want to make certain I am correct.Is there a reason you didn't just put all 4 strips on the bottom of the hive body?

[@jeffwillard2417]

I have heard from people who have attached the Neverwet coated flanges both ways, I think its easier to attach them to the bottom board and at the entrance on the hive body. In my first installations I first took the hive off the bottom board and stapled the front entrance flange on all while the bees were in the hive. I found that it is much easier to make up hives with the stripes already installed on 2-4 hives then swap out frames and repeat the process, it is less disturbing to the bees. Beekeeping is like ice cream, everybody has a favorite flavor and they think theirs is the best, do what makes sense and what works for you.

[@Dave-jc6ky]

Was the following assumption correct? You cut 2 strips @ 1 1/8"x16" and 2 strips @ 20" x 1 1/8" for the 4 strips is that correct? Also I agree with the process you were using to prep some hives ahead and then just switch out frames to minimize degree the bees are disturbed.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Yes that is correct..

[@Dave-jc6ky]

Thanks! I just wanted to make certain since I have someone with metal working tools that does roofing that is going to cut the strips for me.

[@Dave-jc6ky]

Thanks! Sorry but also I have noticed 2 different stock numbers for Neverwet kits. One appears to be rated for consumers item number 274232 and according to Rustoleum the other item number 275185 commercial but Rustoleum didn't expound on any differences. I know size is one difference but I do not know if there is any product difference between the two. Did you use the 18 oz. size item number 274232? I am guessing it has 2 - 9 oz. spray cans with step 1 and 2 in it.

[@cindyvanguilder1479]

the overhanging inside flange doesn't bother the bees ?

[@jeffwillard2417]

Not at all, they crawl right over it...

[@davidwenger4693]

Jeff, I will be trying your idea this spring. What gauge aluminum do you suggest using?

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hello David, Use the aluminum flashing that is sold at Lowes, Home Depot and hardware stores. I used the 20" and 16 rolls, its super thin and high tensile strength which makes it perfect for this application.

[@tomterry3758]

Hey, Jeff, I was thinking of adding a strip of your "invention" on the inside of the hive body around the inside in case the bees have chased the beetles and they hit the strip and then fall to the bottom. The question is what size should the strip be ( width) and how would you glue it to the inside of the hive? The strip should be big enough to make a beetle fall but not big enough to bother a bee. The glue to glue it to a hive body is another consideration. I am really thinking of putting hive bodies that already have bees with beetles. I have seen too many beetles under the beetle trap that lies on the frames and even beetles that go in the trap and then come back out of the trap. We are really having a beetle problem this year so I am planning for future equipment set up to physically counter act beetle problems.

[@tomterry3758]

sorry, I accidentally punched "reply". I was thinking the strips with never wet should be about 3/4 up on the hive body to help the bees rid themselves of beetles when they get an infection. They would fall to the bottom and then have the never dry aluminium strips to contend with on the bottom as you show on your video. I will have to decide on what kind of glue to glue the strips directly on the hive bodies with the strips. I guess one could glue strips onto frames also to make the beetles fall. If these things work, I will be sharing them with our bee club. Thanks again for your "invention" and hard work and research on this important issue.

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi Tom, They do work, in my 40 hives the only beetles I see now are the ones on the outside trying to get in. As long as you have the Neverwet coated flanges mounted on your hive like in the video which prevents the Hive Beetle migrating upwards inside the hive to hide and lay eggs in the comb. The second most important thing is sealing all cracks and openings above the Neverwet coated flanges. I use 1/8"x1/2" polyethylene foam tape (from Equalseal) between hive, supers and vent tops or covers and I caulk the seams between the bottom board and hive body. If you leave any opening or cracks above the Nevercoated flanges the beetles will get in. When I first installed these coated flanges I saw the bees chase the original beetle population down the sides and over the flange which kept the beetles out permanently. The second coated flange may work to quicken the reduction of your existing beetle population, do a comparison test between hives with and without the second flange and see if you notice a significant difference. I think keeping the oil traps between the frames for the existing beetles and also use lower traps with bait, oil or dryer sheet would be more beneficial in controlling the "outside" beetles population which can not get inside your hive because of the Neverwet coated flanges. Good luck with your bees....

[@williamgibson7277]

Will Never Wet work on painted aluminum flashing?

[@jeffwillard2417]

Hi William, Yes it should still work on painted surfaces, just sand the painted surface to increase adhesion for the step one process of Nevercoat.