㉦Mercedes Ke-Jetronic㉦ - 🔌Connector🔌 setup for measuring⚡ mA⚡ on the EHA

[@tysiu1681]

I would love to hear some information that only apply to K-jet from you😀. Explain relevant differences between K and KE, which would help restoring the K-jet. Thank you, great video❤

[@mercedeske]

Hello and thanks. Concerning the K-Jetronic, there is either the K-Jetronic as it was developed from the beginning or the K-Lambda which was mounted in 380SL or in some W116 models for example and all the cars starting from 1980-1983. That's the K-Jetronic with frequency valve. The main difference is the relation between the system and control pressure. The K-Jetronic features the so called WUR(warm up regulator) instead of the EHA. The WUR can be rebuilt but unlike EHA there are many versions of it and they are not compatible with each other like the EHA on KE. You must see the nominal values for your car specifically(I have that data in my videos). You must monitor the pressure difference with a pressure gauge to see if you are in specs. The differential pressure on KE-Jetronic is 0.5bar while the engine is cold, as it warms up 0.4bar. On K-Jetronic the differential pressure is almost 5bar and as the car is being warmed up, the pressure difference decreases up to 1.8bar. The whole cycle last for approx. 4 minutes. The pressure in the WUR is up to 3.8bar at most. There are some other differences concerning the ignition module and system, the idle can be manually adjusted, the pressure gauge must be used with a valve, not like on the KE-Jetronic. There are also some dampers which were not necessary on the KE, the fuel pressure regulator is located inside the fuel distributor and the system pressure no the K-Jetronic can be modified unlike KE-Jetronic. Those were some major differences between the 2 technologies! That's how I can describe the two systems "in brief" :) Greetings

[@EIRK2046Y]

You are one of the few people who understand what they are doing. This comment belongs to people who have this system in their cars and not only in Mercedes but also Audi Porsche Volkswagen from the production period of this specific fuel injection system. If you dont know and dont have manual for that injection system and dont understand principle of each component of that system - sorry you are not be able to repair and adjust that system correctly. You Must have in the end of all repairs emmision tester / old one/ for KE-Jetronic / must measuring exhaust gases / CO CO2 NOx O2 and speed of engine - for measure that without or with lambda probe on your system. Thank you.

[@mercedeske]

Thanks a lot!

[@CarltonLoni]

Solenoid canister valve cleaning

[@mercedeske]

I don't understand!😕

[@carlosramirez-vt3vc]

Que bueno sería este video en español se aprendería algo muy interesante saludos.

[@zenjamin6262]

This helps alot !

[@danielalmagro9649]

Magnifico video. Gracias!

[@fioravantimascella3744]

Saludos a todo el equipo amigo Mercedeando ando!!

[@mercedeske]

Saludos mi amigo!💪🏻💪🏻💪🏻🍀🍀🍀👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻La Morena te manda saludos😉😉😉😉

[@fioravantimascella3744]

@@mercedeske gracias un respetuoso amable y apretadito abrazo!!

[@HadiMabkhot-vr7of]

Thanks 😊 so much 😊😄

[@mercedeske]

My pleasure 😊 Happy Mercedesing 🍀 👍🏻 💪🏻 😊

[@issamalmousa76]

Thanks for your reply Dear happy Mercedes 😊. I have another question please, If i have measured the EHA by kelper 6.6 or 6.8 mm without using the pressure gauge, Do I get the best result?!!

[@mercedeske]

That's something you you would have to check as I on this video.

[@CarltonLoni]

Vapour banister cleaning

[@giacomomeraviglia7036]

Hello, congratulations for your videos on the KE Jetronic, now I would like to know how I can measure the duty cycle on a 300 GE with M103 engine and the 9-pin round connector Are the 2 and 3 pins always the same?

[@mercedeske]

Hello. The same way as for all the others. If you can't measure duty cycle then you will have to check the potentiometer, to replace the lambda and then to make measurements on the X11. Pin 2 is ground, 3 is positive.

[@mkwiipro5912]

Hi Ivica Great video! Whats the ideal value in miliamps for G300?

[@mercedeske]

If it's KAT version the same case as in mine.

[@benzsiddu3810]

Hi i would need some advice from you. i have a couple problems with my 230ce i have 0.63ma when ignition is on, ovp and fulepumprelay works. what do i need to fix do to get it back to the normal 20ma? Another problem ihave is i can't get the car too start and mechanicly or with the eha plugged in. i have checked a cupple of your videos on this system and have done everything accordingly but can't get it too run that way. my systempressure is 5.6bar, when i have 5.2 in controll pressure i have no fuel delivery at the fueldistributor with the airplate within 1-3mm freeplay, i only have fueldelivery with 4.9 in controllpressure which make the car barely start but if it does it smells awful because its running way too rich and the differatial pressure is too high, and i can't push the throttle cuz it stalls, brandnew fuel pump, filter,fuel accumilator holds the pressure 2.5bar for 30min. System pressure is very steady, i have another 230e and that works really good so i set every mechanical setting up accordingly to that car. but still no fuel delivery at the distributor, i changed it too another one but the problem remains. please help before i light the car onfire😅😅 greetings from norway

[@mercedeske]

Hello! If you can't get 20mA on ignition on then it's either the EHA or the ECU. Check the EHA wires - one of them is connected to the contact 12 and the second one on 10 on the ECU connector. Check the continuity between the ECU connector and the EHA connector. If the wires are okay, then the ECU is bad, in fact its capacitors went bad. instagram.com/p/CTdM_5lqTKN/

[@jsz3452]

@@mercedeske hello from Poland, why you think that the ECU is broken when the wires are okay? when the EHA is broken? I have 17.7mA. motor without power max speed 120km/h, max 5000-5500 rpm

[@mercedeske]

I don't know in which context I said that but here is how it is - The ECU is bad if the EHA doesn't receive any current in mA on ignition on because the ECU is both power supply as well as ground for the EHA. The EHA is bad if it can't give the nominal value(19.6Ohm) as well as if there is no way to increase the differential pressure. If you can get approx. 20mA on ignition on that's okay. You must also measure the mA whether they decrease to 0 at 80 degrees and fluctuating around 0mA. The things must remain that way when you raise the revs up to 2500RPM and when you then press the accelerator even more, over 3500RPM, you must get over -66mA. If the EHA passes all these phases then the EHA is okay. If you have difficult cold start then that's either the ECU or the EHA, that's the task for the pressure gauge to see if you get the ideal differential pressure. If you o get the difference of 0.5bar then you should check something else on the system - fuel pressure regulator or something else.

[@jsz3452]

@@mercedeske thanks for your answer, I have 17,7mA on EHA

[@etzka0126]

Would you happen to know what could be the issue with my m102 engine with KE-Jetronic. Not always but frequently when starting it idles very roughly for about 5 seconds. It almost sounds like its running on 3cylinders for a while. I checked the hoses going from the airfilter housing to the idle control valve and they are all cracked and im going to replace them. Also cleaned the ICV and was wondering if I should be able to move the valve by hand or is it supposed to be really stiff?

[@mercedeske]

There are many factors. Check the difference in two pressures and the whole mechanical part of the system. You have that video on the channel.

[@etzka0126]

@@mercedeske i will try thanks.

[@issamalmousa76]

As per your kind clarification on this video, how much the fuel consumption should be. I mean how much kilometer per 20 liter

[@mercedeske]

Open road over 200km, in the town something over 100km, 120. We count it here per 100km so, it depends if you drive constantly, if there are no hills. Generally Mercedeses have a high consumption in the town and that's how it is.

[@lewismarcvs2039]

How did you learn to fix this mercedes nightmares?

[@mercedeske]

Hahahaha. Studying for a long time!!!!

[@x7mln]

my 190e 1.8 reads 19.5ma with ignition on then when running it reads -9.81ma and all the way up to operating temperature it still reads -9.81. how can i get my ma readings to the correct value? thanks.

[@mercedeske]

Have you been readjusting the 2mm hex key on the EHA?

[@x7mln]

no i have never touched the eha screw.

[@mercedeske]

@@x7mln Do you have KAT or NON KAT version?

[@x7mln]

KAT with lambda sensor, lambda reads 0.9v at 80 degrees. thanks

[@mercedeske]

@@x7mln if you haven't replaced the lambda, do it.

[@saefalgzi-mx7bz]

مرحبا هل يمكن تغيير محرك4سلندر بمحرك 6سلندر في سيارة مرسيدس124وما هي الأشياء التي لابد من تغييرها إذا وضعنا محرك 6بدل محرك4

[@mercedeske]

مرحباً، الطريقة الأفضل هي استبدال المحرك بالكامل مع نظام الحقن.

[@kalypsarosa]

Bonjour! Mon nom est Sébastien DENAY MAIRET, Français, Bourgogne!! Je suis propriétaire d'une Mercedes sl 500 de 1991.J'ai regardé toute vos vidéos, et depuis plusieurs mois je recherche la panne... Au départ, j'ai constaté que ma consommation était énorme 19 litres au 100km au lieu de 13.5 en moyenne.Puis un jour mon véhicule est tombé en panne âpres quel est brouté comme si elle se noyait ou bien plus d'essence dans la circulation et ensuite impossible de la remettre en route. Elle démarre difficilement à froid ensuite tourne durant 10 minutes bien et ensuite elle cale.ensuite impossible de la redémarrer avant le lendemain. La pression au manomètre est bonne 6.3 en brut 5.9 soit -0.4 donc ok.Apres 30 minutes 3.1 bar de pression. Lorsque je veux remettre la voiture en route à chaud çà fait une détonation et ça fait sortir de leur emplacement le tuyau d'air du ezl et celui qui se situe a proximité de egr.. je ne sais plus quoi en penser......Cordialement

[@mercedeske]

Bonjour. Si vous avez des détonations, il peut s'agir d'un mélange pauvre. Prenez une lecture de la tension sur X11 lorsque la voiture est chaude et elle devrait être d'env. 6,6 V et fluctuant dans cette plage. Vérifiez les câbles de bougie d'allumage s'ils fonctionnent correctement. Remplacez la sonde lambda si ce n'est pas le cas ainsi que le potentiomètre. J'ai fait une vidéo approfondie sur la partie électronique du KE-Jetronic, c'est ma dernière vidéo. Vérifiez tous les capteurs. C'est ce que je peux dire. Salutations