Sock

So first off, now that I have these socks off the machine and finished, DO NOT do yarn changes like this on the top of the sock. This was a silly choice on my part. The yarn changes give a slightly varied texture/look on the outside of the sock, if I were to do it again, I would definitely do the yarn changes on the side, or on the bottom. The fabric on the top of the sock looks vaguely bubbled. Hopefully they'll be fine once they go through the wash a few times.
Other than that, I'm ecstatic with how these socks came out. I want to experiment further and maybe try tacking the non-working yarn down (1 stitch per row?) so it doesn't need to be cut each time. I don't know how to do colorwork in hand knitting, so it's still a pretty new concept to me (hand or machine).
Yarn was from Lolodidit - the gray came from the "everyday sock" base, the colorway is unknown, and the green / yellow is "Oow I feel good" in their sparkle sock base.
You can see my reference page for details on any of the tools or references I use:
www.crazymokes....

[@Jmzblondable]

You make this look so easy. I’ve been wanting to make a pair of Frankensocks and now that I’ve seen the method, I’m ready to try it. Thanks for sharing.

[@amythesockmaker1105]

I haven't had time to fill in the description and I will put this there. But don't do what I did and do the yarn change on the top of the sock. Do it on the bottom or the side. It does bunch up a little weird and I wish I hadn't done it there. Too visible.

[@Jmzblondable]

@@amythesockmaker1105 thanks for the advice. I will take that into consideration IF I CAN GET MY #*(%ing RAVEL CORD TO COOPERATE! Lol

[@nancycollins2823]

Came for the sock content, but the kitties were a happy bonus! I love that green with the gray variegated. The stripes turned out amazing, but yeah - that fiddly work is bonkers.

[@MOLLIMEDIA]

Nice socks! I think your row counter is missing a nut. I saw that mine had one.

[@j_filippo]

Can you tell me what it is that you put in the center in the cast on bonnet? Is that some kind of weight? Next, where did you find the forks made from forks? I've searched and can't find anything. Me and the stock forks that came with my speedster don't seem to get along that well. It's always a fight if you know what I'm saying. I'm a new sock machine knitter so I'm watching all you peeps on KZbin trying to absorb all the info. I have been working for like a week now to make a successful heel. I can't seem to get one 100% correct. So frustrating but Kim at Erlbacher says its the hardest part of learning to knit the socks. If I liked after thought heels I'd move along and skip it but I don't so I am determined to master it. Say a prayer for me as I need it.. ☺️

[@amythesockmaker1105]

I also had a lot of trouble with forks / v-hooks etc. starting out. I remember going to a crank in with my first vintage machine, and everyone donated all their forks and we hung like 6-8 forks along my heel *rofl* I could also not master the afterthought heel. So I get you! I made my forks myself, I had some old forks hanging out in my silverware drawer, popped them in a vice where I wanted the 90degree bend to go, got a big hammer and hammered them down. The weights hanging off the forks are old socks (commercial) filled with BBs (like that you load into a bb gun, purchased at walmart). After a year the BBs started to leak out of that doubled over socks, so I made a cover for them. My heel fork weights are 10oz, 8oz, and 8oz. I don't know why I did that, if I did it again I'd just make them all the same. I'm a metalsmith as well as a sockmaker, so I have tools to do some of these things, but all you really need is a vice, hammer, and a drill with some drill bits made to go through metal. With no vice, you could try bending the tines of the fork with some heavy duty pliers (mark them well before hand so all the bends are the same). The weight was made the same way -- That's the think I pop into my cast on bonnet at the beginning. That is a 3 lb weight, again, a commercial sock, filled with BBs, doubled over on itself. It also leaked BBs after some time so I made a nice cover for it. I'm afraid I don't have notes from the how I made the covers (I will look some more to check) it was just trial and error until something worked. I got the instructions for the soft weight from Colorado Cranker's blog. She made and uses different sizes for her main weight, I just made one 3lb weight and use that exclusively: www.thecoloradocranker.com/2013/08/0-0-1-771-4401-colorado-cranker-36-10.html

[@Tracys_Knitting_Addiction]

You have such wonderful content. I’m curious though about the counter weight you have on your sock machine. What is the benefit and where do you find them? Thank you!

[@amythesockmaker1105]

I have a custom handle made out of acrylic that is slightly heavier than the stock handle, and the little set screw the speedster uses to keep the crank from rotating backward when you let go didn't really do the trick anymore. There is a 3D printed counter balance that I purchased from the maker to offset the handle. The handle and counter weight info can be found on my reference page here: www.crazymokes.com/2019/10/sock-making-maniac/ The handle is on the larger side and fits in your hand very nicely. It feels more ergonomic to me, much more comfortable. The counterweight is there purely to offset the handle.

[@Tracys_Knitting_Addiction]

@@amythesockmaker1105 thank you! I’ll search the group! And thank you again for making such great video content!

[@vikiworley5930]

Would it be possible to set the yarn you are not using in the cylinder and then just wrap it around one stitch each row? Would that be just as tedious? Also the clip is genius. I went to my antique Gearhart and it works on it too. Also do you always use Lycra? And if so why? Just curious.

[@amythesockmaker1105]

I think that's a great idea -- I will have to try it out. Every time I cut the yarn I cringe a little bit! I do usually always use lycra, at the end of the day, knit socks tend to get a little saggy/out of shape and I think the lycra just helps give a bit more structure, keep it's shape a little better. However, it's a PITA to frog anything with lycra, it must be removed. I have a video on lycra I believe (but I probably just said everything much more concisely here).