[SOLVED] Washing machine spin problem on direct drive kenmore whirlpool top load washer

After replacing the clutch band (part #285790) and seeing no change or improvement I'd assumed that this ruled out the clutch as being the cause of the problem. Turns out that the new clutch band/pads/spring with the original clutch housing (the metal cup that the band sits in) did not solve the problem.
The solution was to replace the entire clutch (part #285785 which I got for $10 from Luna Parts on ebay). As soon as I did this, the problem resolved completely and the washer spins faster than it ever has before (clothes come out bone dry).
Kenmore Series 80 Model #11024862300 Direct Drive Top Load Washer
Link to the manual : www.searspartsdirect.com/mode...
This washing machine has been working fine for years. In the past I've replaced a failed lid switch but otherwise it's needed no service. Recently it began failing to spin the clothes dry at the end of the wash. Though I didn't know it, it was also failing to spin the clothes after the wash agitation and before the rinse fill.
Initially before digging too deeply into the cause, I replaced the motor coupler and the clutch band as two parts which often fail, are cheap and easy to replace. This didn't fix the problem.
Here's what happens :
* Start the washer
* Washer fills the tub. This works fine.
* Washer enters agitation mode. The motor spins, transferring power to the transmission via the motor coupler, the transmission turns that rotation from the motor into agitation movement on the shaft which in turn moves the agitator in the basket. This works fine.
* Washer drains the tub. The motor spins in the opposite direction, the transmission enters neutral drain mode, the basket doesn't spin or agitate and the water pump drains the tub. This works fine.
* The drain finishes, the motor stops, the timer counts down about 20 seconds
Now here's the problem
* The motor starts back up and the basket begins to spin but just barely. The motor spins, the transmission causes the clutch drum to spin but the basket doesn't come up to speed
What should happen
* The motor should start back up and the basket should begin to spin, slowly at first and eventually at full speed
Here's the workaround that I've discovered that hopefully says something about the root cause of the problem
* If, once the washer is trying to spin but just not getting up to speed, I stop the wash cycle
* Then manually push the basket around a bit, forward and backward
* Then start the wash cycle back up, the basket begins to spin and successfully comes up to speed.
Since there are two points in the wash cycle where a spin occurs, I'll continue to describe what happens
* The first spin which comes after the wash agitation and before the rinse fill finishes
* The motor stops, and the tub begins to fill with cold rinse water. This works fine
* Once the tub is full, the motor starts and rinse agitation occurs. This works fine
* After rinse agitation, the motor stops, the timer counts, the motor starts back up, transmission in neutral and drains the tub with the water pump
* The drain finishes, the motor stops, the timer counts down about 20 seconds
The same symptoms occur now for the second time, during the final spin to dry the clothes. The workaround described above is the same and once done, allows the spin to run successfully.

[@michaelmorch8862]

REALLY SOLVED!!!! Had the exact same problem. Here is the fix. Take the outer panel off so that you can get to the tub, just like you see in this video. Unsnap the top ring and remove so that you can see down between the outer plastic bucket that holds all the water and the inside metal basket that is supposed to spin. You will see something that is NOT supposed to be down there...and I mean not supposed to be WEDGED down in there. In my case, it was my girlfriends sock. All twisted up in a very tight ball from the inner basket trying to spin. The reason the washer in this video worked better after rotating the basket backwards is because it was temporarily and somewhat unwedging the sock (or whatever piece of clothing) kind of like the way a pair of Chinese handcuffs work. Anyway, this is what fixed mine. Removed the sock and plugged it in and it spins like crazy fast again. Hope this helps!!!

[@kevinharley9240]

Cool, having the exact same problem Thank you!!!

[@JAMEVICTOROUS]

I really hope this is my same problem, let you know the results later. Thanks

[@bobkrogh2953]

yes The fix. lent build up . cleaned out spin like new

[@pest5547]

Are you effin kidding me right now? This thing has nearly caused a divorce and I'm not even married! I'm off to tear this piece of shoooit apart one more time. Pray for me, I'm goin' in!!

[@aliasunknown6972]

The same exact thing happened to mine. I did the same exact thing you did and now it is spinning like new. Thank you!

[@jeepinmofo]

Man, this video saved my backside!! Had the same problem, but refused to go out and buy one of the newer washers (garbage). Watched your video, took mine apart and wouldn’t you know it, a damn sock jammed between the inner and outer tubs stopping it from spinning….thanks a ton sir.

[@ljslw]

I would check the plastic cam that is attached to the brake assembly. It has two small tabs that keep it in place. When they wear off, it will create an no spin, if one breaks off it will create a situation like yours. With one tab worn off, it will also cause a noise like you described. The cam is actually part of the clutch assembly even though it’s mounted on the brake assembly. You have to remove the gear case exposing the brake assembly. Remove the C clamp holding the plastic cam in place. Inspect the cam. One side should have 2 tabs that fit into the metal cam. If one or both are missing, there’s your problem.

[@WiliamBennettwildarbennett]

I am glad I have found your video on this beast! I do maintenance on about 200 apartments and have 3 that have a very similar issues. And as yet I've not got satisfactory results. So I know that I'm not crazy about this problem. My local appliance parts guy seems to think it's a factory design issue.

[@tguzman7408]

Just order the resident a new washer and then on your free time take the broken one apart and fix it

[@tikofann5884]

Thank you so much. I had already replaced the coupler and it worked about 3 or 4 loads then it quit spinning again. I’ve been trying everything although I haven’t bought any other new parts. But I tried turning the tub and it moved a little, I’m not a very big gal but I got a couple nail sets out, like the kind you set a nail with and stuck one on one side of the tub and the other on the other side of the tub then I had something to hold onto so I could turn the tub. I had to do it a couple times both directions and then it got free from whatever was hanging it up. My clothes are spin dry now!!! Thank you. I love finding solutions that work without having to find a repairman or spending a bunch of money.

[@Kibra150]

Thank you Gene - I did not change anything as the washer was not spinning - then I do what you did and start spinning fine - will test the washer again after loading clothes and thank you.

[@jimsap1163]

Same issue after disassembling washer to replace basket drive assembly, some seals and bearings. I replaced clutch (band only - 3 pad). Still slipping so replaced complete clutch assembly. This time with with 6 pad band which is what the original clutch had. Now spins right away and fast! Thank you for the video!

[@rickeykeeton4770]

I seldom, if ever, change just the pads. The housings get worn.

[@seanstrickley3992]

Always change the whole clutch and bands with spring it all gets worn down

[@jakec.5272]

Thank you sir..I changed my clutch and agitator and coupling in 2021..changed my coupling again even though nothing was wrong with it …just about to look at the clutch…then I came across this video…mine took a few more turns but it worked… thank you very much…….. kenmore 90 series

[@jasonkaminski6230]

same washer & same problem here. was hoping your video included the solution you found but i see you put it in the caption. thanks for the tips!

[@aprillynn129]

I came across the same issue before. There was a permanent marker that was floating between the tub and drum. So I took out the agitator and drum and cleaned out the debris and the marker which was eventually slowing the speed. Put everything back and voila!! Works like new

[@tomhsia4354]

The Kenmore DD I have has this issue sometimes. It won't spin if you let the timer run normally, but manually setting the timer to a spin cycle and turning the machine on or power cycling it fixes the issue. I don't even have to turn the tub. Interestingly, the final spin works most of the time. It's just the spin between the wash and rinse cycles and the one right before the final spin cycle that has problems. Update, I'm an idiot. My washer is not supposed to spin between the wash and rinse cycles. Here is a quote from the appliantology forums which may help: "The operating sequence of neutral drain: 1) Agitation (of at least a couple minutes) during the wash (or deep rinse) presets the neutral drain mechanism in the transmission so that the next time the motor stops and restarts in the reverse direction (reverse as is reverse from wash), the transmission shifts to neutral (no agitation or spin). 2) Per normal cycle sequence, the motor pauses briefly after agitation, then restarts in reverse to drain the water. 3) After drain (2 to 4 mins depending on the model), the motor pauses and restarts again in the reverse direction (same direction as drain, reverse from wash), which releases the neutral drain mechanism and the transmission shifts to spin. Jiggering the lid switch or opening/closing the lid during the #3 drain sequence has the same effect as a programmed pause in the timer, triggering spin to begin at that point. If you don't jigger the switch or open/close the lid, does spin always commence after the 2nd timer pause? If so, then you don't have a problem. If not, then you do have a problem." I may still need to check my transmission or clutch because there are still times it does not spin properly.

[@dalejones1943]

I have a whirlpool washer machine direct drive that had a spin problem a well. I did look at the Drive Block and it looked good! I decided to go ahead a changed it anyway and it was fused to the tube had to apply wd40( that's all I had at the time) let it soak in reapply to get Drive Block off and it stuck in tub Basket had to knock it out with long screwdriver and hammer clean Tub Basket, and Tub Hub and don't forget to clean water pump and hoses ! Now my washer spins faster and glad I decided to look further into the Drive Block than what was all the YOU TUBE VIDEO SAY! HENSE THE TURM DRIVE BLOCK! I have learned alot as well from these videos! Good Luck with your Machine!

[@guzmanada81]

Mines was like that too and we bought a new transmission😊, and now it works perfect👍

[@bjw920]

I just changed my clutch, relatively easy. As I was taking it apart, I had a broken bolt and missing bolt that held in the transmission. I think the transmission was actually lower than it should be because there are 3 studs it slides over. Got all three in and a new clutch, problem fixed. Also, I cannot turn the drum by hand now. Works perfectly.

[@aprillynn129]

Guys if it spins slow like that, take out the drum and remove the debris between tub and the drum. BOOM!! Replace everything you took out and test. If it still spins slow, Then you can move on to replacing the clutch

[@snowblind5151]

I believe this is my problem being able to see discolor in the tub.

[@rogerbec5766]

You deserve four stars. Thanks. Very helpful video.

[@jesseimhoff2808]

Ok we have several of these washers and it seems like a common weakness on these washers most people say that it is the clutch but a clutch won't start working just by moving it. I admit I haven't been completely successful fixing this problem yet but the problem is in the natural drain assembly in the transmission. the motor always drives into the transmission but there is a disengage so it can pump the water out before it starts to spin and that disengage isn't engaging right but by moving the drum it allows it to engage.

[@bigstuff52]

exactly right....

[@WillaHerrera]

Jesse Imhoff this is exactly my problem.

[@WillaHerrera]

@butchtropic you can switch polarity on AC ? I always thought alternating current changed polarity 120 times a second.

[@WillaHerrera]

@butchtropic you know what's funny and shows my pitiful lack of memory. I've taken my washer apart 4 times and cleaned out the transmission and put new oil in it while I become intimately aware of how it works and put a coupler on my drill to go back and forth with the a shaft to see how exactly it works with the cover off so I realized mine was gunked up and it would not let the internal switching parts give me a spin cycle. So I fully know that the electric motor changes direction and because I forgot this I was fully getting ready to argue the fact that the motor doesn't change direction.. Even THOUGH I'VE FULLY ran the transmission through all it's functions WITH THE COVER OFF 😆 and thiswas only like 6 months ago. And I'm only 48 but my crappy old brain is failing me. It's sad. But a side note I was happy to find that the oil in my transmission being dirty was my problem. I washed it out with rubbing alcohol then added some oil I bought made for the transmission along with some Mercedes-Benz transmission fluid I had in my garage lol. I used to MBZ. fluid to rinse some of the gunked up crap that was in there. It's been working much better than the chunk of mush in my skull 💀💫

[@WillaHerrera]

@butchtropic I'm sorry the way I wrote that looked like I regularly change the fluid. I took my first one apart because it was leaking fluid due to water getting in it. I tried getting that under control 3 times before pulling a transmission from a used washer. The used unit stopped spinning so I took it apart to find it was filthy. The only Mercedes fluid that got left in it was residual from cleaning the gunk from the internal parts. Let me ask you this. When I had my drill hooked up where the motor would normally be and I spun the transmission one direction the shaft would rotate back and forth in the agitate function. I would then change the drill to the opposite rotation and the shaft would then spin continuousl like it's in the spin cycle.

[@pedrodiaz3221]

Most of the time this is caused by an object that got between the outer tub and the basket , so before going crazy replacing any parts remove the balance ring which is held by some plastic tabs and look in between the outer tub and the basket , sometimes you can see it thru the plastic outer tub , I have found towel , socks etc.

[@GOFAST0602]

I feel your frustration. I am getting a loud humming type sound during the initial attempt of starting the spin cycle. I tried replacing a start capacitor on the motor thinking it was out and not giving the motor enough power. That didn’t fix anything. Still have the problem. Starting to consider the possibility of a failed motor.

[@j.delatorre4294]

Do you get this fixed. I have the same problem.

[@stevengriffith167]

Motor centrfuge is worn it has two springs may neef wd 40.

[@JordanPeverelli]

Oh man, thank you! I got a Sears Roebuck Kenmore 110 and moving the drum by hand got it working again, call me lazy, hell I am, but if this is all it needs to keep working then I'll just mess with it every now and then.

[@commercialelectrician133]

Great video I'm also having the same problem great video very informative

[@mikerandolph5827]

1.Remove drive block & basket from tub. 2. Clean tub and bottom of basket 3. Remove pump, motor, transmission and clutch. 4. Remove brake assembly 5. Inspect and clean any oil/grease in brake housing and brake mechanism. 6. Disassemble clutch and clean oil or grease. 7. Inspect & replace clutch if needed 8. Reassemble

[@ramnido1]

Good evening, I believe that your clutch is starting to go bad, sooner or later you will need to replace it. I'm 95% sure that this will solve your problem. Good luck and God bless you... Regards, Mr. Nido

[@sicilyny5375]

I was told the basket gets unadjusted and needs to just be adjusted as you did manually. Heavy clothes loaded, too many clothes throw it off balance. My guy opened the front panel, stuck a screwdriver in there and it realigned the basket. Every 10-12 washes..same damn thing

[@jeromepancoast3435]

I have had the same problem for months. I replaced the several parts and coupling. It worked okay for 2 weeks and then the same thing. At first, the final spin would work okay then the next load it would not. The clothes were still wet and at the bottom of the tub. I did NOT rotate the tub as in the video I just reset the timer to spin and it would spin just fine. I learned something the other day about the air tube for the water level, that if there is a build-up of old soap the pressure in the tube is traped. The water level tube if blocked makes the switch think that there is still water in the tub, that the draining never finished. That is why when I just turn the timer around back to the spin it works okay. I am going to work on it on Monday.

[@bgregg55]

Those old machines were made so much better. My WP washer was made in '95 & has never needed a repair.

[@musicman1958]

I put a little silicone grease on my brake drum and the spin works great now.the brake used to grab real hard and actually pivot the whole machine around when it stopped spinning.i would have to manually turn the drum to get it going because it would lock up but not any more Hope this helps

[@tomhsia4354]

This might be my problem. It would appear that on my machine, the brake would sometimes not release unless you power cycle the machine. Or maybe my timer is busted.

[@juliansdiamonds]

Thank you so much !!! This is a great help !!!!

[@medicalnegligence]

Had the same problem but it occurred intermittently. Solved it by getting a Speed Queen.

[@carlodonnell146]

HOW DID SHE WORK ? the queen

[@medicalnegligence]

It’s in a class by itself. Excellent build quality and it does everything on a level that no other machine can match. Look at it as a long term investment.

[@rickeykeeton4770]

Came across this again. If I am not mistaken Ed, I think I have had couplets go bad and let the machine agitate but not spin. Looked like you were having to use a lot energy to turn that tub by hand. Maybe a brake problem? Did you get the problem solved?

[@dougwright5014]

FYI for anyone interested . FSP MFG. machines on agitation the motor turns one way to reverse the pump and turn the agitator for washing. right before it goes into the spin cycle it pauses. this pause puts the transmission into neutral so it can drain the water before trying to spin out. (so don't open the lid when its draining cause it kicks it into spin with water in it) it then reverses the motor pumps out water in neutral. then pauses again. this pause kicks it into the spin gear. if the spin clutch is worn it cannot release the tub brake fully and turn the drum. I always replace the spin clutch if it has spinning issues. check the tub brake that it is working and not broken. and check for oil seal leak on transmission that it is not leaking oil and spinning it on the clutch. common issue is = the transmission does not kick into neutral drain and tries to spin with water in the tub which prematurely wears the clutch out. there is a neutral drain repair kit for the transmission.

[@ttc3004]

direct drive whirlpool washer m # 110.24622300 I hope you can help me. I wondered how to tell if brake is broken? I have a washer that I am unable to turn the coupler on the transmission clockwise it will only turn counter clockwise BUT with motor and transmission out of washer both spin freely. Since I am currently unemployed I have to determine if its the transmission or something like the brakes dragging or basket drive assembly. i noticed the cam has no play outside the washer but while turning the basket drive assembly counterclockwise to get it back up into the washer it is difficult to turn maybe its supposed to be? Also once in the washer there is a lot of play in cam. One other thing I noticed was once the transmission was in the coupler would spin clockwise a little bit but not enough to turn the tub then I would hear a click and it wouldn't turn anymore and it never turned far enough for the tub to spin. Is that click something locking up with the brakes or in the transmission? i disassembled the brakes took of the spring to make sure they move freely. There was no play in the brakes so they seem okay to someone who doesn't know what they are supposed to feel like. Also we replaced the transmission fluid with 90 wt. Ugh someone please help we have been watching videos and searching the internet for a week. We replaced the capacitor before figuring out it was bound up somehow. thanks in advance for any help you can give.

[@dougwright5014]

@@ttc3004 there is a nylon piece called "brake cam driver" that the clutch turns that is connected to the cam that releases the brake. if you pull the motor and transmission out you will see the brake assembly. sometimes the brake cam driver has little plastic nubs that can break causing the cam driver to jam sideways not releasing the brake. they have a clutch kit that replaces all those pieces Partselect# PS334641

[@dougwright5014]

ALSO!! make sure the pump doesnt have something lodged inside of it. I have seen socks coins bra wires that allow it to agitate but not spin or vice versa.... try to get it to spin with the pump removed from the motor

[@ttc3004]

@@dougwright5014 ty I will google brake cam driver n see if I can find a pic. My motor n transmission n brake system is out now so I will check ty

[@ttc3004]

@@dougwright5014 I will try that n let u know

[@sonofnok2153]

I have the exact problem with the same model. I changed the couppler and the clutch assembly, but didn't solve the problem.

[@tonykoughan9304]

I have the Inglis version, and after replacing the clutch o am still having the issue, I’ve also done the agitator dogs and stabilizer spring. Looking more and more like I wasted my money.

[@RoyalMajestyCreators]

Mine is doing the same thing except I tried changing the speed and for some reason it started to spin for the first wash now is not spinning only. I replaced the coupler, clutch bang and even the pump cause at one point it was leaking water from the pump. That's fine no leaks . My issue is not spinning it makes an attempt but fails . It drains water no spinning as mention. Have you fix yours what was the solution . Please don't tell me is the transmission ..also the drive block was replace tabs are fine. Please help..

[@ccrum1127]

Need advise I have a 70series kenmore, the clutch was replaced, the transmission replaced motor coupler replaced, mine was also not spinning after the wash cycle and after the rinse cycle, I have to open the lid and close it for it to engage..and then it is fine until the rinse cycle and I have to do it again..any suggestions as to why this is happening..the lid switch was also replaced when everything else was replaced..

[@mahantpatel4446]

Hi i have removed total fluid from balance ring and now my machine is more n more slanting, what should I fill in balance ring from my home as there is lock down in India..😊 can suggest?

[@billyburkhamer3806]

I have a Admiral washer every thing works ok it Just won,t spin the close dry if I turn the inner tip clock wise till it ,s tight then it will spin how can I solve the problem

[@emiliozapata1015]

Your tha man! I fixed it! 👊👊👊

[@lesliesnyder6410]

Ive done belts.. replaced pump... cleaned filter... washer was pretty nasty below FILTER...gonna try to reset motor..next?

[@carlodonnell146]

Is the oil leaking past the seal into the clutch drum or are the water seals leaking into the clutch drum which will cause slipping of the clutch?

[@asiba2]

Coupler installed but machine will not start on its own. I am getting the humming that indicates the motor is working. I go underneath and manipulate the coupler and it starts but will not start back unless I manipulate the coupler . Thinking that coupler might be stuck or not level -- What do I do ? Spray some lubricant onto the coupler ?

[@rickeykeeton4770]

I also wonder about the gear at the bottom of the shaft inside the tranny. I recently changed one that was not letting the tranny shift.

[@D.E.X]

Mine makes a horrific squealing like bad brakes on a car, I opened it up, found the pins from the first drive coupler of the cush drive (three pronged plastic shaft parts that go into the rubber hockey puck looking thing one from one side, one from the other, reminds me of a motorcycle rear sprocket "cush" drive, so I call it that) Those pins were an earlier repair by a different owner. The three pronged couplers were fine, but the rubber hockey puck cush drive was very worn and torn, so I replaced it. I replaced the entire clutch assembly. The cush drive new rubber hockey puck bushing fixed the terrible clunk/slam sound, but not the squeal and not the no spin. By manually turning the drum while the spin isn't happening and the squeal is, I can reduce the squeal sound to about a tenth of what it was and it stays at that level thru multiple runs. But no spin. I am thinking the transmission has had it.

[@domle5260]

I believe the problem is improper spring on the new clutch. Hope it will solve your problem

[@2manycatsforadime]

they come with an extra spring but the proper spring is attached. The shorter spring is for a different clutch which isn't found much. Forgot which machine it is in

[@dennisgoans701]

Think other spring is for 24 inch washer.

[@rickeykeeton4770]

When you changed the clutch, did you change the brake cam?

[@technicallygeckley14]

10 out of 10 top notch content.

[@JAMEVICTOROUS]

I have the exact same problem. I just purchased a coupling and I’m second guessing because the wash agitator moves during wash cycle.

[@WillaHerrera]

I just had the same problem but mine was a problem and fix I had never heard of. I used a drill on the transmission to switch back and forth to find my problem. I ended up taking the transmission cover off and pulling the big plastic gear off because my transmission would not switch to spin mode. In My case the transmission oil was so gunked up that the switch from agitate to spin would not switch. I cleaned the trans out with rubbing alcohol then Mercedes ATF. I then filled it with new fluid and it works like a dream now. While cleaning it I took out the little cogs under the big plastic gear and washed the gunk off them thoroughly. I hope this helps someone else.

[@paulwilliamwalker]

is it necessary to take apart the full housing and the drum?

[@shazammohammed9073]

I have the same problem I changed the clutch and it still does the same thing so I believe cleaning the transmission and changing the oil maybe the solution.

[@GOFAST0602]

I’ll give it a try, thanks.

[@mikebarbier1519]

@@GOFAST0602 When I changed the clutch, I noticed it had grease and crap on it. I think the lower bearing seal is bad and let grease get on the brake and clutch assembly causing this issue. A new (clean) clutch solved the problem but only temporary I’m sure.

[@mikebarbier1519]

@@shazammohammed9073 Use synthetic oil. I used the cheap STP gear oil and it stinks when washing clothes. There’s a vent hole on top of transmission and it stinks up the whole laundry room. Synthetic won’t smell like that.

[@user-om6tq9qn1t]

Inside the transmission there's a spin hear that goes over the shaft that agitates that gear also has the notches that connects to the clutch bellow there is the gear that lets it agitate the one that has the allighnment mark on it bellow that there is a spin cam and follower with a spring between them in spin cycle the cam and follower ar spread apart by the spring. If there's any kind of a bind between the cam and follower and spring it will not disinguage with the gear that agitates and let the spin gear inguage

[@rusty358]

I think the metal of the clutch housing gets worn beyond tolerance. I have a similar problem.

[@tonymemory2279]

no it dont. you need to STRETCH THAT SPRING. thats it.

[@stixplayer]

My Kenmore spin as you demonstrated is not working except when in 2nd spin!!

[@rachaelbrock9195]

Did you ever find out what’s causing your spin issue

[@ckafer1]

I have the same problem! I've replaced the whole clutch assembly with an OEM $50 kit. Still have to manually move the tub just as you show until the tub completely releases and spins freely, then it spins fine and fast. I'm at a loss.

[@tomhsia4354]

Check the brake, it might not be releasing properly.

[@ckafer1]

Basket drive, drive block, and clutch all completely replaced. The brakes are not releasing without spinning counterclockwise several rotations. Then it will go into spin just fine. No idea what to check next.

[@tomhsia4354]

@@ckafer1 Here is a video on how the clutch works, I hope this helps. kzbin.info/www/bejne/p2qXY6uklJeJjrs

[@tomhsia4354]

@@ckafer1 kzbin.info/www/bejne/oJioiWhmmqaUnJY And here is one on the brakes. Sometimes, things appear to not work simply because of spite. "I've replaced every single thing that could be causing problems, WHY WON"T YOU WORK!" Those situations are the absolute worse. The last thing I can think of that may be causing problems is the timer.

[@ckafer1]

@@tomhsia4354 Thanks. A well known repair forum has suggested that a worn spot in the spin gear in the transmission could be at fault. That doesn't seem likely to me but I still can't quite picture how the brakes actually release. I've torn this machine down several times so at least I'm getting fast at it! Thought for sure that replacing completely those three things would fix it, even though I didn't see anything obviously wrong with them. It's a 14 yr old unit though. What exactly does the timer do that would cause the brakes to not release after the agitation cycle? And thanks for the links, love his videos!

[@gamerforlife6682]

It’s definately your clutch. Needs to be perfectly into motor. Check that bands holding the motor in position are on the unit. It’s likely the metal bands not positioned right.

[@emilyzeb1547]

Just replaced my whole clutch assembly including bell on mine. Still didn't work. Then discovered a lighter between the baskets which seems to have been the problem.

[@ashleehill3786]

I have the exact same washer mine does the same thing as this one except i only have to push the button in and pull it back out n it spins fine everytime. I dont have to turn the drum or anything like that. Sometimes it works perfect and I don't even have to do that? Did you ever figure this out?

[@jeromepancoast3435]

See my reply to de marullo. I had learned more about the water level switch. If the thin air tube that connects on the left side of the tub becomes clogged with old soap it may block the tube. Not enough to affect the water level, but enough that when the water drains out before SPIN, the switch thinks that there is still water in the tub so it never gets the signal to spin. I will try to fit on Monday.

[@smirkingdevil]

Since my washer does not have direct drive or a clutch, I assume the repairs you made already were good. Does this do the same on all the settings? Have you tried using the "Permanent Press" setting to see if it works correctly? Maybe your washer is having issues with just the "Regular" setting? If not, maybe see if this model has an outer tub bearing. If so, it might be going out on you. I just did a transmission shaft seal replacement on a 25 y/o stackable, which fixed my leak issue, but I also should have replaced my outer tub bearing while I had the washer disassembled . My spin cycle has trouble rotating my inner tub when using the "Regular" setting and tears up belts because the motor spins its pulley, but the belt does not have enough grab to rotate my transmission/inner tub. I suspect my outer tub bearing (also 25 y/o) needs to be replaced. My temporary fix is to use the "Permanent Press" setting, which agitates the clothes like the "Regular" cycle, but spins at a slower speed, allowing my belts and pulleys enough grip to rotate.

[@seanstrickley3992]

Sounds like u have grease all over your pulley under the belt making it slip. Change out the clutch and pulley

[@steveb9151]

Gene: I have almost the exact model you are talking about and the EXACT same problem. I, too, replaced the motor coupler AND the clutch band ( I thought the clutch band HAD to be the problem). I could hardly believe it when that repair didn't affect the slow spinning at all. So you feel that replacing the clutch bell made the difference? Mine still looks really good (no grease residue or anything). Do really you think that made the difference? Thanks so much for this video.

[@benslusser7429]

it is glazed up like a car brake rotor

[@SkynetT800]

I think it's the transmission!

[@VIKERS1965]

I'm having same problem but I found a small spring laying under the unit about 1 1/2 inches long but can't quite figure we R e I tv belongs???

[@fiddlerpin]

Only small springs in the whirlpool washers are in the motor. The weights for the start winding use them to reset the motor to start position. When the weights wear at the spring mounting tabs they fly out and the motor can no longer start.

[@amazonrainforest3449]

In the beginning of the video, is that how it’s supposed to spin?

[@thedarkphire33]

Seems like a bad clutch, or brake assemblyy or maybe something stuck between the 2 baskets. I have had socks jam their way in between the tubs and then jam up the pump.

[@Diane_-gf7ib]

I was wondering if you could help me. I have a Amana washer 2 years new. It's making a noise when I spin the inner basket empty. I took the agitator out n there was nothing in the tub itself. It sounds like a necklace or something is in between the inner basket n the outer basket. I don't know how to remove the inner basket to check. Any suggestions would be appreciated.

[@steffia7x516]

Did you get help?

[@Diane_-gf7ib]

@@steffia7x516 I found the problem. It was a underwire bra wire. It was sticking out of one of the holes. I pulled it out n problem fixed. Yea!! Thank you for asking.

[@samdorner1250]

I know with automotive brakes, if oil gets on to/ in to the pads, it can cause the brakes to lock up and grab too much. If the brake pads on your washer are the same, or a similar material, which i would think is pretty likely, its possible the transmission oil is the culprit.

[@derekvanslager7520]

wouldnt that still spin if the clutch is stuck???

[@derekvanslager7520]

how do you know if oil got onto brakes?? How do you fix the oil trans problem??

[@googleuser868]

The brakes on mine grabbed so hard to stop the spin cycle it sounded likely to do damage to the machine. I took the tip from another web page and added a small dab of grease to the brake drum to calm it down.

[@ttc3004]

@@googleuser868 direct drive whirlpool washer m # 110.246223 I hope someone can help me. I have a washer that I am unable to turn the coupler on the transmission clockwise it will only turn counter clockwise BUT with motor and transmission out of washer both spin freely. Since I am currently unemployed I have to determine if its the transmission or something like the brakes dragging or basket drive assembly. i noticed the cam has no play outside the washer but while turning the basket drive assembly counterclockwise to get it back up into the washer it is difficult maybe its supposed to be? Also once in the washer there is alot of play in cam. One other thing I noticed was once the transmission was in the coupler would spin clockwise a little bit but not enough to turn the tub then I would hear a click and it wouldnt turn anymore and it never turned far enough for the tub to spin. Is that click something locking up with the brakes or in the transmission? i disassembled the brakes took of the spring to make sure they move freely. There was no play in the brakes so they seem okay to someone who doesnt know what they are supposed to feel like. Also we replaced the transmission fluid with 90 wt and have removed the tub and water pump to make sure nothing is stuck in or under them.. Ugh someone please help we have been watching videos and searching the internet for a week. We replaced the capacitor before figuring out it was bound up somehow. thanks in advance for any help you can give

[@kwinters5550]

@@derekvanslager7520 No, if the clutch is stuck, it would have to be cleaned before lubricating it or it'll have to be replaced if that doesn't work.

[@drmoooto]

Solved? How? Did I miss something?💥

[@victorikou3044]

The clutch was bad, he bought the wrong clutch at first.

[@eb5019]

I raise the cover, put it back down and it engages every time! Not ideal would love to fix it!

[@pamilabutler1048]

Mine won’t spin until I reset it. So I turn the knob all the way around and it will spin just fine. Any ideas?

[@rosiemcclelland9379]

sounds exactly like what I'm going thru right now! 1/5/22. did you ever find out what was wrong with it?

[@floraharris1670]

I have the same problem but my whirlpool will spin on low and when it get ready to spin on high it stops and hums so I have to stop (push the button in) and restart ( pull the button out) and it will start to spin every time.Tired of babysitting my washer. A friend told me it was the timer but I don't know need help please

[@keithjones2958]

I have the same issue. Checking the inner basket for items like socks or lighters that may hamper the spin

[@dutchman6533]

I changed clutch and noticed that new clutch plastic had four on it where older ones had six plastic pieces! What do you think?

[@2manycatsforadime]

4 is the standard one, six is the commercial clutch, last a lot longer but both will get the job done

[@dutchman6533]

Bob K I put six back in and worked better, was having the same problems,

[@2manycatsforadime]

@@dutchman6533 with six pads you have better traction less slippage and longer clutch life. Thats why its a commercial clutch.

[@marycroom-xk2ul]

Mine is a crosley it won't spin at all or wrong out water on the clothes why

[@panchovilla3493]

Did u fix?

[@roberts8683]

Had the same problem but found out that the brake was getting stuck... You can either get new brake shoes and replace them or personally I just cleaned them with some brake cleaner and lubed up the rollers with some oil, grease is preferable but I didn't have any. Hope this helps someone, took me a month to figure out :) btw if you don't know how to get to the brake there's a good video just type in washer brake pad replacement

[@derekvanslager7520]

how do you know if the break is getting stuck or not????

[@tomhsia4354]

@@derekvanslager7520 In my case, letting the machine run naturally into a spin cycle won't work but power cycling (which probably releases the brake more reliably, maybe the the timer is at fault) the machine fixes it.

[@zepar221]

LOL...took it all apart like that just to change the clutch...A new clutch ships with 2 springs for the band. After the band/plate wears the second spring is longer to put more pressure on it to extend the life and wear it down more...

[@luv2uallday1]

actually the clutch comes with two springs not for what you stated but for different models. kenmore uses the green spring and whirlpool high capacity models use the blue spring as the clutches are bigger

[@zepar221]

@@luv2uallday1 Kenmore never made a washer, Whirlpool made all the Kenmores back in the day. I have taken apart hundreds of these and have never found the clutches to be any different sizes....the clutch band can have 3 to 6 pads and is the only difference. The spring sizes are different. The drum of the machine can be different sizes and thus a beefier clutch is needed. The Whirlpool 2000 washer design from the 1970's to 2010 did not change much.

[@zepar221]

@@luv2uallday1 I literally just took a 6 pad clutch band out of a 1982 Kenmore 80 series today and put the band in a new Chinese clutch hub and it fit exactly the same and works just fine.

[@RandyOnTheRadio]

I am not having this issue, but I would suspect the timer itself. The timer does way more than you'd think. My mom had a Whirlpool some years back, and it was doing was strange things. Ordered a new timer, and everything worked as it should. It's the timer that engages the clutches, drains the tub, makes it spin, makes it agitate, makes it fill and drain. Many folks don't consider that. Take a timer apart and you'll see all the craziness in there.

[@keemez]

yeahhhh, no. you can clearly see the tub "trying" to spin. there's a mechanical problem causing this.

[@RandyOnTheRadio]

@@keemez Okay fine

[@seanstrickley3992]

Your not wrong the timer does engage everything that's true but this isn't the issue the clutch is the issue and or clothing stuck in outer tub is what it's called there's inner tub and outer tub. Inner tub is the steel tub outter is the plastic that keeps water in and all.

[@Elliot.93]

Hi, would you tell me what problem with my washing machine is that it’s too much shaking while rinsing because of too much hitting at the end then it stops 🛑

[@michaelurban2969]

Replace the bottom spring that holds the tub to the frame. Overtime, the spring gets rusty and unhinges itself from the frame. You will have to drill a new hole next to the old hole and replace the spring.

[@Elliot.93]

Michael Urban Hi Micheal, i changed the spring but the problem is that the clothes piled on one side of the tube and then starts hitting and turned off straight away

[@RICDirector]

@@Elliot.93 balance your load better to start with

[@DJT4363]

i have a similar problem, mine makes a terrible noise when it does spin but it dont want to spin mist times. any ideas? anyone?

[@kcor5908]

Hey Don, I have a similar issue. Mine agitates but makes loud terrible noise when on spin cycle. Were you able to fix it and what was it?

[@zion8680]

mine fills up almost to the top , then stops for a fews long secs , then starts back a few secs , then starts back , is that normal???? please help

[@edwardbrogan7143]

I just changed a coupler becuase it wouldn't do anything just hum, now it fills up agitates then when it suppose to spin it wont stop agitating it will try to to go one way then back the other

[@ossiedixon3508]

I have a Kenmore Model 110 29532800 washer with almost the identical problem. Mine doesn't spin at all as part of normal sequence of operation, but if I rotate the tub as in the video it spins and seems to get up to speed. I have changed the motor coupling (were ok but just decided to change) and the complete clutch assembly but the problem persists. All other parts seem to be visibly OK. I haven't opened transmission to inspect in detail. The replacement clutch was a low cost one off Amazon. Could the replacement clutch be at fault and/or the brake. Right now I am thinking of changing the clutch again, but from a different supplier as it is relatively low cost.

[@2manycatsforadime]

If you replaced the clutch and there isn't any grease in it then it should be just fine. It must be installed in the correct orientation though so that it doesn't interfer with the plastic clutch dog on the brake drum. If all that is correct then perhaps you need a neutral drain kit in the transmission.

[@2manycatsforadime]

replace the bell, the entire clutch assembly, saving 5 bucks in parts doesn't make any sense when you have the entire machine apart. You had the transmission apart, did you replace the neutral parts with a kit? Again a few bucks for parts and an easy job.When you put the clutch back on did you put it in the correct orientation with the brake dog in the bell attached to the drum?

[@josephgrasso6444]

I had to do the exact thing but fin not got a new washer

[@josephgrasso6444]

Exactly same thing *. Finally got a new washer *

[@dougwright5014]

cluch get oil on it and is weak.... doesnt release the spin brake...if you turn it by hand it helps release the brake so it can spin

[@tjbrown393]

Change the clutch that's your problem I never just change the band

[@antondufont]

What about the basket drive?

[@SkynetT800]

Which one's the basket Drive?

[@piotrkilebas2180]

Basket Drive

[@richardshiffka1110]

Honestly I think its the plastic piece where the brake hits or the bearing that the shift slides into but moreso the plastic piece

[@tonymemory2279]

STRETCH THE SPRING ON THE CLUTCH BAND!!!!!!!! you dont need to replace the whole clutch just get plyers and stretch the spring on the new clutch and its tighter now than the original system. and get a 6 PAD STYLE COMMERCIAL BAND THATS LAST FOR LIFE!!!

[@dougwright5014]

that works sometimes stretching the spring.... the last clutch i bought came with 2 different springs so they must supply a stronger one

[@jeanettemurray3272]

When I was in my twenties I turned a wash machine on its side a washer was missing I replaced the washer turned it back up and it worked you might look to see if the washer on the bottom of the tub is missing

[@nightfury1318]

I have a 80 series as well. I'm having problems during the draining spin. It will spin ok but makes a loud squeaking noise and sometimes it will not spin for a second or two while squeaking very loudly while making a burnt rubber type smell. Think it's the same problem or something else?

[@davidnovinska]

Sounds like the pads are gone on the clutch. The rivets are rubbing on the metal clutch cup.

[@gabtsuyt8583]

That problem can also happen in belt drive’s washing machines

[@maryarzumanyan2068]

please help!! i have this exact washer! won’t spin

[@2manycatsforadime]

needs a clutch, the entire assembly not just the band. It is a bit of a job but in the world of washers this is an easier one. Is your washer a direct drive like this one?

[@lionreb]

I have one week before the new washer is delivered to get rid of my 80 series Kenmore machine. It needs repair for the no-spin condition but I am sure that it can be repaired who wants it? Anyone is Mass or RI? I would love to fix it but I am out of time.

[@kam5876]

You will regret not fixing your Kenmore washing machine. The old direct drive machines manufactured by Whirlpool before 2010 are the best. All new washing machines are junk and will need lots of repairs. Ask any appliance shop.

[@ike7933]

It’s a clutch ...(15 bucks) , I have replaced many over the years ....it will solve this problem....you have to remove the motor and gear case . Repair clinic has a video

[@jamesharris2002]

do you have a link?

[@doracollins4851]

I need to no where the long springs go on a whirlpool washer

[@MRJREGGAE1]

What spring do you mean? Show picture

[@googleuser868]

Balance spring? Mine goes from a hole in the back of the cabinet to a bracket on the tub base. Google for a good diagram/picture.

[@rosalindjordansvelteworkou5356]

The suspension rods will bounce down and up and down and up and down and up and then brake it's self's springs

[@ilyasjaweed6112]

hi, I have similar one Whirlpool during the spinning cycle it drains but the drum wont spin, and clothes has water left at the end. when i tried to turn the drum, its very stiff and tight. any suggestions what went wrong with it?

[@jddr555]

Same

[@Kibra150]

I have Whirlpool and moves the drum twice forward and twice backward and then the washer start spinning normal but I will be dead sure when I try to wash my clothes next time.

[@roryhaggerty7768]

clutch spring too small. put in the bigger one, kit should come with it. did mine and now it bangs like hell in fast spin, somthing came undone, ill find it

[@michelero4297]

You said it was solved??

[@negui46togui]

I have the same model and I got the same problem

[@vegasworldbyhonestytorrie6775]

Front of my whirlpool washing machine starting linking wayer

[@Richcbuck]

Very possibly your water pump. Take off shell and watch! sets right in front of washer. I think pump is $15-20. easy fix 2 hoses,2 clamps

[@joegreene5734]

Replacing the basket drive his solve this problem for me multiple times on multiple different washers.

[@derekvanslager7520]

I took apart, and my clutch wouldn't spin, so it was not slipping. the pestic peices between motor and trans are fine also. Some said something about oil from trans any got into the clutch, but would that cause it to get hot and stick?? If the clutch is stuck, wouldn't it spin though?????? I am lost, doesn't spin, but the aggregator still works fine.

[@joegreene5734]

@@derekvanslager7520 Yes the clutch would move if that were the problem. Oil on the clutch would cause it to slip more easily. In my case I could spin the tub by hand in either direction. Meaning either the clutch, drum brake, or drive block is bad. To replace the the drum brake its easiest just to replace the entire spin tube. To do that you also have to remove the drive block. So you can inspect at that time to see if it's bad or just loose.

[@luv2uallday1]

your basket drive (brake) is out you shouldn't be able move it once it's engaged. I know I can't move mine for sure.

[@juansandoval1088]

Good job theres serents way that both of the clushes have to go serent position surge in interenet how to assemble clush on kenmart top load washer the exact same thing happen to me no big deal