How I Paint Things - Crimson Fists

[@siu07pa]

Hey, I know this is an old video but I just want to say thanks for posting it. I've painted a Crimson Fists army using this method and I'm real pleased with it!

[@tremolo_painter]

I really love the variety of models you paint from multiple games. When you paint figures from games I am not planning to play, I am inspired to check the game out!

[@diverspudph]

Love how you painted this (I really like how this miniature looks!), love your "How I Paint Things" videos, and really appreciate how you narrate what you're doing -- your voice is pleasant, easy on the ears and the humor lightens things up!

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Well, thank you kindly. :D If nothing else, I hope it helps out in some small way - it doesn't hurt to get that shot in the arm now and then!

[@aussiesoldier0177]

Great video, im starting a Crimson Fist army and off all the how to's I've seen this video and the way you painted this marine appealed to me the most. I have never drybrushed before but am keen to learn. I've subbed, thanks again

[@L3GHO5T]

Absolutely love crimson fists paint scheme and there lore. And Pedro is bad to the bone one of my favourite space marine characters! I’m currently working on him. I don’t like the one cast though it’s my first experience with it

[@guidoviglietti5344]

Thank you so much for the help, your tip for the leather worked amazing, cant thank you enough.

[@Wildehyde]

Mate, im a beginner at painting sntirely, and i love how you actually go through the whole model and show me how to paint it. Learn alot about colour theory and technique, and i get to see it all come together. Love it, keep it up!

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

I always think there's something to be said about knowing the Why of things. When I was being taught some of these same techniques, knowing the reasoning behind them helped me make choices about what to skip, or what was vital to the outcome, as well as being able to apply them elsewhere with a reasonable guess at how they'd turn out. Thanks for stopping in!

[@danharris8805]

Hi mate! I've been getting back into 40k and i'm going to start an Eldar army infact i've already ordered the models (EXCITED!)....anyway thank you for your videos, they have been really helpful! I used to think of painting as a bit of a chore but since seeing your videos and the techniques you use i can't wait to get a brush in my hand and some paint on to them bad mofos! Cheers mate!

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

There's a trick to approaching painting from the right mindset, I think. It really can feel like work some days, but don't push it when it does, or you'll end up resenting it! If you're keen, burn the candle at both ends and bash on the brushes as long as the feeling lasts! :D

[@Sylan-ms9kj]

i dont do it anymore because edge highlighting has become a bit of an obsession for me now in addition to neatness but your idea of washing after drybrush is the best idea as it takes away any chalkiness that the drybrush might have left behind and like you said for a quick job it blends the different tones. Excellent vid man

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

As much as I champion drybrushing, if I had the time for every single miniature I'd want to try and edge highlight as much as possible, too. I do prefer that sharper look overall, but when it comes to bashing out armies... something's gotta give! ;)

[@Eric-jt8yx]

0:30 base Kantor Blue 1:45 Dry brush Etherium Blue 3:35 Drakenhof Nightshade 4:40 Hoeth Blue highlights 6:23 Mephiston Red hand 6:40 Carroburg Crimson or earth shade over fist 7:20 Evil Sunz or Wild Rider red highlights 8:19 Mourning Brown, Skrag Brown, Leadbelcher, Black

[@davidgpeterson]

This might be my favorite miniature paint job you’ve done.

[@aegishjalmur123]

Mate I love your videos, they are super clear and helpful

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Glad to hear it!

[@irrationalgaz]

Excellent quick paint scheme for a sorely under appreciated chapter. My Only knit pick is that You didn't drill the barrel!

[@tobyc2102]

Outstanding! What a great way to use drybrushing. Thanks for the upload and keep up the great work.

[@Onionsred]

The leather makes the blue pop out so well, I love it so much. I can't wait to see some Eliminators Crimson Fists with a great camo.

[@henrymendes5617]

I approve of this video! 👍

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Judging by the icon, that's high praise! 🤣

[@ezrabaker2617]

I know I am kind of off topic but do anyone know a good website to stream newly released movies online ?

[@johnkelley9877]

Really nicely painted ! The leather looks especially realistic. Thanks for sharing this.

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

I love finding different ways of painting leather. As a material there's so much you can do with it to add to a miniature's palette while still looking 'right.' :)

[@phayes2]

I love your painting style Sonic. You produce excellent quality table top armies and I have referenced your videos for many of my friends just getting into the hobby.

[@reflux1986]

Lovely! I do this but according to your Black Templar/Iron Hands video. Simply Chaos Black Primer > Abaddon Black paint the whole thing > drybrush one layer with Mechanicus Standard Grey > another fine layer of Dawnstone drybrush > weapon and gold metal parts + fine details > Nuln Oil the whole thing and that's about it.

[@tressil3607]

This is a really nice tutorial that isn't overly complicated. Very nice and clean.

[@jhnlk]

Looks killer mate. Need to try this paint method out!

[@13Robzilla]

Love the video. One thing I would add about the decal breaking, use it! I had a Spacewolf I was doing, same thing happened decal split while placing it. I was going to either fix it or replace it. My friend told me to keep it broken and instead of covering it up, accentuate it. Detail it, highlight the break everything. For some weird reason he's the model people gravitate towards because of the flaw. Nature is filled with randomness. Sometimes, as artists, we suppress the thing that makes it look the most real.

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

You know, you've got an interesting point. Maybe I'll leave that decal as it is - split, but only very roughly patched back up by the Reiver worried about the protest of his armour's machine spirits if he leaves it damaged! ;D

[@JG.112]

Such an efficient/effective process. Thank you for sharing.

[@gvjones74]

Love it. The Ultras I paint with my little lad look very similar, mccrage blue with nuln oil gloss.

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Those gloss shades are a brilliant touch in the toolkit. I tend to find they flow a little more from flat panels to the normal shades, so definitely how I'd tackle something as simply as possible!

[@josetrevino7143]

Thanks for this video! It helped me a great deal with my Dark Angel Rievers! I’d love to see more, perhaps even a series on Phobos armor.

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Now Phobos armour could be fun... a look at the Reavers and the rest of the Vanguard might be interesting!

[@derjoman523]

congratulation to 10,000 subscribers! greetings from germany. i love ur "how i paint things" :D

[@deathdanger076]

Bin auch deutsch . Welche Armee spielst du ?

[@andershektor7223]

Very nice! I'm going for the colder Nuln Oil look myself, with Fenrisian Grey as extreme highlight. The chapter icon is not that hard to learn how to freehand, something I find easier than mucking around with decals.

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

I'd love to see how they turn out! I'm all fingers and thumbs when it comes to freehanding, which is why I lean so heavily on decals when I can find them, but I suppose it's about time I sucked it up and learned how... :D

[@davidparker2724]

Hi Mr Sonic! Quick question.... Would you consider tidying up the miniature with the base blue after drybrushing, but before the blue glaze? Areas like knees and larger panel areas, just so there is less area that needs the glaze to sort out. Cheers Dave

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

You certainly can do. If you're worried about having gone a little overboard with your drybrushing, a little of the base colour to tidy up flat panels can work really well.

[@davidmarkdavies8702]

Iv just got out of prizon (section 18 gbh over my dog)I read wh40k so I started painting THX now im perfect good stuf ur king of polite.YER GOOD STUFF.

[@ruse0131]

I really love the content I've been binge watching for afew days keep up the great work!

[@HidingZebraTube]

I'll admit... I was rounding up a posse to knock down your door, after seeing your decal video ;) *Call off the posse guys!*

[@Osborne4Life]

Very beautiful, as always. :) And congrats on reaching 10,000 subscribers! :D

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

I'M SCARED AND CONFUSED! ;3; Thanks, dude!

[@aaronscott4015]

"The crimson fists are probably one of the coolest successor chapters there are" *6000 black templars screaming in the distance*

[@rufffinoo]

Consistently excellent.

[@SkuffD]

Nice technique! I also agree with your assessment on what fists get the red. :)

[@TheMiniJunkie]

Great video, I love how much time the drybrushing saves over typical edge highlighting. On this particular model perhaps a highlight on the cool abdominal ribbing would look good, but nonetheless he looks really great. I’m curious, what colours do you use on the base? Looks good.

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Truth be told, I actually completely forgot to go and highlight the undersuit! I like to use Skavenblight Dinge on black for a more rubberized appearance than a straight grey like Dawnstone, personally. The base is a super quick Stirland Mud, then drybrush Ryza Rust and finish with Eldar Flesh. The trick is in being brave with the Ryza Rust - straight orange might look insane coming out of the pot, but it works great over a dark brown!

[@TheMiniJunkie]

Sonic Sledgehammer Studio Ryza Rust?? Brilliant!

[@vinhiem6962]

I love how this all came together. What style of varnish do you like to use to finish them up? Matte or maybe a Satin?

[@adamfox1669]

Great looking miniature. (I really like your painting style & tutorials are great- even for ‘old’dogs like myself. What’s your opinion on painting the new super sized primaris marines? (As compared to normal marines). Thanks for your enthusiasm & continued great content

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

If I'm honest, there isn't much difference between painting the Primaris Marines and the regular-sized blokes. If there's any big difference it's in the faces. The newer sculpts seem to have much deeper and more pronounced detail in the expressions, which is a lot of fun if you're into painting heads!

[@adamfox1669]

Oh, I understand. Awesome. That WILL make it easier to make definition with washes & such. Thanks! As always, great content

[@glazier359]

Awesome, i just got back into 40k recently and got my first set of Reivers, I will test out this method. wish me luck!

[@delabuse]

I'm looking forward to try this on my own Crimson fists ! If you don't mind me asking, how would you alter the scheme to work with vehicles like Dreadnoughts ?

[@BoxerFadlan]

I love this video. Please paint more primaris.

[@rmurphie]

What would be a good alternative paint for the initial drybrush? Not a fan of their dry range... thank you :)

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Anything of a vaguely similar colour, really. Fenrisian Grey would be my first suggestion.

[@rmurphie]

@@SonicSledgehammerStudio thanks mate! ill give it a crack :)

[@redcorsair14]

Nice. Was actually thinking of doing crimson fists but think this might work better for my Night Lords which I have always struggled for blue with. I don't need two midnight blue marine armies hehe.

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Can't beat blue, though... ;D Maybe it's time to try an Ultramarine army, too!

[@pandemicpoojab]

Have you had a look at the new turbo dork paints, give an amazing metallic look

[@rmurphie]

Hey mate, me again haha. I've just followed this and painted my first intercessor, love it! My question is, do you feel like this could translate over to vehcicles aswell? Or would that be more putting the base colour down first and just having a decent crack at edghe highlighting? Cheers dude

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

It'll actually transfer fairly easily to vehicles. You'll probably want to be a little more targeted with your shade - painting it directly into recesses takes a little longer, but is way tidy - and you can still absolutely drybrush edges. Just keep your drybrush at a rough 45 degree angle to each corner you're drybrushing and go mad, it works a treat.

[@Syrlantar]

Congrats on the 10k dude!

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

MY SHOCK IS REAL AND COMPLETE

[@shortti789]

Love the new video man !!!!

[@leeparkin9869]

Loving the channel I only recently discovered it. Could I request a 'how you paint: sanguinary guard' video? They are my favorate unit in 40k. :)

[@FrodoShort]

I'm putting together a Crimson Fist army as my first getting into the hobby and I'm trying to find a way to make it's heraldry. Apart from buying the Imperial transfer sheets and attempting to recolour them are there any other/better ways of doing this?

[@gigapudding4557]

Is there anything extra you add to your washes or a step you don't cover? Seems like you shower it and get no water ring goings on and the such. Great stuff btw love your channel.

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

With all these videos, what you see is what you get. If I do anything additional to help smooth things out, I'll be sure and share! With shades and washes, the one thing I seem to do more than others is shake them. Shake the everloving snot out of your shades before you use them, since you can get a sediment of useful stuff at the bottom of the pot and 'just water' near the top that you end up using.

[@Firstwavedzc]

I may have to throw some models at you from other ranges to see what you do!

[@gedmcloughlin866]

Awesome as ever buddy.

[@HooblaDGN]

Do you think this armor recipe would work well for Ultramarines if I started with Macragge and used a thinned-down Drakenhof?

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

I can tell you that you wouldn't actually need to thin out the Drakenhof Nightshade at all. Starting with Macragge and drybrushing Etherium Blue in the same way, once it's shaded you'll get a really nice effect for the Ultramarines, too. The only real difference would be the final highlight if you want to do any tidying up. Use Fenris Grey instead of Hoeth Blue and you'll be golden.

[@TheBelligerentDuck]

This is a very good tutorial. Thanks for uploading.

[@mr_joshie5899]

hey man great video where do you get the transfer sheet for crimson fists from?

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

eBay, unfortunately! Or you can pick up shoulder pads with moulded Chapter symbols either from Shapeways or other places online. Just a quick Google will point you in the right direction!

[@leonmumford179]

7 paints colours as aposed to 40 is good for me

[@thomasbarnaby1277]

Your videos are always excellent keep up the great work!

[@Thvmos_Wolf]

Thank you!

[@ValkGame]

Freehand a lightning bolt across the split decal and make him a Killteam specialist.

[@Dessite6]

Awesome tutorial. Tried it with chronus instead due to lack of etherium but it's apparently too dark to be noticeable. And my drybrushing is weak since while trying to do the edges I got also a lot of it on flat panels despite trying to be careful. I also failed on the wash as the mini looks rather stained with it instead of merging and darkening the colours nicely as on your video. Any hints on what I might be doing wrong? Your version looks awesome and seems pretty fast to do and I would really like to go this road on my crimson fists. Keep up the good work ☺

[@Dessite6]

my current effect looks rather poor cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/501815091264487424/560421024202489866/20190327_121244.jpg

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Once you've got a couple of extra details on that won't look as bad as you think! Definitely agree that the Etherium Blue makes it stand out a little more, though. I'd take a couple of minutes before shading and shake the dickens out of that Drakenhof Nightshade before applying it, and if you're getting faint tide marks like that try applying just a little bit less at a time. As well, while you can't always completely avoid getting drybrushing on rounded edges, try coming at some of them from a different angle - even brushing 'up' against the underside of some things will help avoid the worst of that effect.

[@Dessite6]

@@SonicSledgehammerStudio thanks for the tips, I'll try to get Etherium tomorrow as my LGS was closed today :( and I'll try shaking the hell out of drakenhoff then ;)

[@MrGlennz0r]

Hey Sonic, I love your videos. Is there any reason you don't use a painting handle?

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

When painting my own stuff, I use them pretty regularly. I particularly like the grip and shape of the Citadel version, but I also blu-tac miniatures on bases to simple corks when I want to turn out a whole squad quickly. The main reason I don't use it on these videos is it gets in the way of where I need to hold the miniature for it to show up on camera! ;)

[@timlill459]

Love all the video but this was a favourite one all hail the fists

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

People saw the Crimson Fist and went absolutely BONKERS, so I knew I had to throw down as quickly as possible or I'd never hear the end of it! ;D

[@MrSphinchee]

What would happen if instead of using the wash to bring the blues together you used a glaze?

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

You'd end up with a slightly richer blue overall, but without the same depth of shading. It wouldn't look bad so much as a little flat. You might try using Nuln Oil straight away over the Kantor Blue, then doing the drybrush and finishing with the blue glaze.

[@ndrinks5550]

I can't believe I didn't think of doing that to get the skull facemask looking right.

[@guillermogomezruiz]

Could you make it for ultras? The video you have for ultras is less detailed and with old models. Thanks

[@fan9775]

Is there no Kantor Blue equivalent in Army Painter?

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

'Deep Blue.' If you hit Google for a colour conversion table you'll find most of the Army Painter range have fairly close equivalents to Citadel.

[@fan9775]

@@SonicSledgehammerStudio I must not be shaking it hard enough.

[@adamrowlands4074]

Please could you a Blood Angels series of tutorials !

[@theodorsahlsten6139]

What vallejo colours would you recommend as an alternative to kantor blue? Love your videos!

[@pabloluis6297]

I use dark prussian blue for Model color (050)

[@IDICBeer]

Nice job mate

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Gotta love the Crimson Fists! Though I didn't realise just HOW mad for these guys folks seem to be...!

[@adwag3573]

Hey, love your videos. I have watched many of them so far. Your painting has certainly improved since the beginning of this year. I particularly like your dry brush videos. I have tried it myself, however I keep getting mixed results. The paint seems to spill over the edges onto my models flat spots. An suggestions anyone? I think maybe the paint that I am using is too wet? it also looks very chalky and inconsistent. Thanks for the help!

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

It could be a couple of things. Paint being too wet could be one of them, if you're drybrushing with base or layer paints, so just spend a little more time getting paint out of the brush while you're prepping and make sure to check on the edge of the miniature's base what you're going to leave behind. If the formulated Dry paints are smearing like that, it might be that you've just got a bum pot, unfortunately - GW will happily swap it for another, I find. Particularly around rounded edges like on the kneepads in this video, though, you'll see it's not always possible to completely avoid that smearing. Most of the time a shade over the top will take care of that!

[@adwag3573]

Thank you!

[@AgeofGuns]

Thanks for making this video! I'm wanting to start playing wh40k, and I want to paint a salamanders army. My problem is highlighting and getting the paint thin enough to where it looks smooth. Any suggestions or does it just come to you with time?

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Generally speaking, it's better to have your paint just a little too thick than too thin. It'll be slightly trickier to paint a straight line, but you'll have less chance of your paint overflowing and going rogue on you if you lose control.

[@igorbonifacic424]

Thanks for the great tutorial!

[@bookys1237]

Do you just use space marine models and codex for the crimson fist?

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Yup! The Crimson Fists can be used straight from the Codex and follow a few of the Imperial Fists rules, and with the exception of Chapter Master Pedro Kantor, the miniatures are 'ordinary' Marines painted up differently.

[@Franxkful]

great job man LIKE

[@tastefulavenger]

How do you get the underside of the sheath without getting brown everywhere?

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Ordinarily it's as easy as flipping the miniature upside down while you're holding it. Then you're not trying to paint 'underneath' anything!

[@ashenlitch7863]

Ive tried out this and It works great so far unitil i Apply drakenhof, for some reason IT turns out really shiny, anyone have advice om how to avoid that

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Just matt varnish him once you're done and the finish won't matter.

[@ashenlitch7863]

@@SonicSledgehammerStudio thank you Ill Try it out!

[@longhunter5935]

Looks very nice. Raven guard next...

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

I'm probably going to try and avoid doing a whole string of power armour videos, if I can help it - a bunch of people have asked for a whole slew of different Chapters, but I don't want to be doing just Space Marines all month! In the mean time, this might help: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bWbKYWhjrMSKeNU Once you've got black armour, that's pretty much a Raven Guard Marine done, right? ;D

[@longhunter5935]

Sonic Sledgehammer Studio- just checked out your video you linked and picked up the Dry brushing video too. Thanks

[@rmurphie]

This video is awesome, the 8 people who disliked this can give themselves an uppercut hahaha

[@euansmith3699]

You tell he isn't an Ultramarine; no bolter drill!

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

I AM YELLING RIGHT NOW

[@bellportbattlebunker4682]

HUZZAH! Thanks for sharing.

[@evanstrong4064]

Love this

[@stevemiller1345]

Hey. I know this is a 2 year old video but where did you get the decal for these?

[@Warhammer40kmaker]

I don't know about him, but i got mine from Scumb4g Kustoms on facebook. A dude from japan who prints and sells them. If you write to him he will send you images of the decals. He has 4 different sheets. He also makes youtube videos on how to apply his since the decals are a little bit different to apply. His video on how to apply his decals: kzbin.info/www/bejne/najaf3x8j56ha80

[@stevemiller1345]

@@Warhammer40kmaker were they red

[@Warhammer40kmaker]

@@stevemiller1345 they looked like these facebook.com/CMValrak/posts/crimson-fist-decals-arrived-pure-perfection-massive-shoutout-to-scumb4g-kustoms/1429167167241309/. Red hands with black within the red circle. These are the same that i have bought

[@dinnyskips]

omg this is amazing i know what chapter I'm doing now

[@imyourlol]

First! (lol I can use the same color of sigmarine)

[@caspianclaesson8445]

imyourlol congrats i guess

[@ТимурХаснутдинов]

Man you cool, Russian respect you 👍

[@thiefx100]

Couldn't get 10 seconds into the video before this guy fake laughs.

[@SonicSledgehammerStudio]

Unfortunately, any laughter you hear is entirely genuine. I'm very easily amused.