Jeep Grand Cherokee (WK2) - A/C Clutch Will Not Engage

[@SouthMainAuto]

*Autel MaxiSys MS906 Pro* : amzn.to/3LwlxwL *Astro Tools 52SLC 500x2 Lumen Folding Double-Sided LED Slim Light W/Wireless Charging Pad* : amzn.to/3BZaMzH *OTC 3633 Mini-Coil Cord Circuit Tester , Red* : amzn.to/3BXge6m

[@calholli]

What I've seen Ivan do on a few of these is just pull your signal wire and clutch wire from the board and then run it on it's own independent relay next to the box or mounted on the firewall. It's super cheap, easy to rig up and gets the customer going again; and is actually an upgrade, because then the relay is easily replaceable next time. Cheers.

[@thepeepsdotnet]

Does the Autel also need a subscription for updates, or is it just buy it, and it's good for the life of the unit?

[@pjf1313]

Mr. O. - Have you used it on any FCA products 2018 or newer? If so, does it allow you to get beyond the secure gateway to, say, ABS, BCM, etc.?

[@trump4ever508]

EVERY LITTLE BIT HELPS

[@cranemech567]

@@thepeepsdotnet When I bought mine earlier this year, it came with one year of updates and then it is $699 to update it. You can skip the update for a year or two and when you pay the $699, you are updated to the latest files, you don't have to purchase all the previous years updates. Hopefully my explanation makes sense.

[@dlsimmonsjr1]

I'm an Industrial electrician and your troubleshooting skills and ability to teach are a great gift. I always learn from your videos

[@The_Redkween]

Same here!! I work on semiconductor manufacturing equipment and love watching him diagnose.

[@calholli]

What I've seen Ivan do on a few of these is just pull your signal wire and clutch wire from the board and then run it on it's own independent relay next to the box or mounted on the firewall. It's super cheap, easy to rig up and gets the customer going again; and is actually an upgrade, because then the relay is easily replaceable next time. Cheers.

[@iaov]

I’m a former industrial electrician and I agree with your post completely!!

[@harrylister804]

@@calholli ivan is a clever dude with some serious education. Eric is a clever guy with a thriving bidness who only resorts to a good hack when requested. I enjoy watching both.

[@wrongway611]

My question is if when he adds a ground and the relay turns on why not assume the pcm isn't adding a ground?

[@THEDUDE0410]

Eric you are probably 1 of the best and smartest Mechanic's I have ever seen. Good job

[@calholli]

Look up Ivan at "pine hollow auto diagnostics" --

[@glennshoemaker5724]

Scanner danner does very well also at trouble shooting ..same to you eric o.

[@2552]

your ability to breakdown and diagnose a problem never ceases to amaze. thank you!

[@robertfitzgerald3432]

Ditto that.

[@DIYDaveOK]

"The electric car pandemic..."😂😄 Awesome as always, Eric! Thanks.

[@xj31]

That had me spittin' coffee😜☕

[@shaystern2453]

@@xj31 a silly thing to say

[@MaddJakd]

This! It this bad on something just "modern." Guaranteed it gets 1000X worst with these EVs they're trying to shove down out throats.

[@guesswho9742]

On my own Chrysler, I did the same test you dtd and got the same answers from the dealer, so just by-passed the built-in relay and wired a universal one in it's place. Works like new. LOL

[@genedunn9283]

I recently picked up a 906Pro-TS (906 Pro with tpms tool built in). As my first bi-directional scan tool, there’s a bit of a learning curve as a driveway diy-er, but it has earned my respect and has been worth every penny.

[@wallingj68]

My co-worker is what I call a Jeep ho, and he gives me grief because I'm a DeWalt ho, but I told him that even though they both appear in car videos quite often, the DeWalt's are normally fixing the Jeeps. He had no response to that.

[@crabmansteve6844]

I feel that, I'm a bit of a Festool whore myself.

[@Onewheelordeal]

Never really thought about it but I see DeWalt tools very rarely in automotive but all the time in home contracting. Big one I see in YT car vids is Milwaukee tho I saw the Rigid stuff enough to pick it as a cheaper option I've been happy with

[@FishFind3000]

@@Onewheelordeal dewalt has been stepping up there game with automotive impacts so your probably see more of them.

[@ShainAndrews]

@@Onewheelordeal Dewalt is the home gamer... Milwaukee is the professional. Doesn't matter if it is building a structure, or laying pipe in the oil fields. That is how I see the brands separated every day. I personally have no issues with either of them.

[@jasonmarks1636]

i dislike Dwalt. They dissed me on a warranty claim and I told the rep I'd never buy a yellow piece of junk again... 30 years later, this contractor has never owned a yellow tool. Milwaukee for me.

[@calholli]

What I've seen Ivan do on a few of these is just pull your signal wire and clutch wire from the board and then run it on it's own independent relay next to the box or mounted on the firewall. It's super cheap, easy to rig up and gets the customer going again; and is actually an upgrade, because then the relay is easily replaceable next time. Cheers.

[@peto22]

I would solder a new relay to the circuit board. It's really easy. The only thing I doubt is whether the fuse box will open without a fight. And yes, I hate relays hanging from wires. The next guy wouldn't know what this loose relay is.

[@calholli]

@@peto22 You can easily label it. I give you a 50% chance that trying to open up the fuse box is either going to compromise the box by breaking the plastic shell or you may even break the board or something inside-- and then you end up NEEDING to buy a new box. On older fords, they always had the starter solenoid mounted to the fender, so I'm used to seeing some sort of separate relay or solenoid there--- so it doesn't bother me; I actually prefer it over an integrated setup, especially for something like my fuel pump- that way it's even easier to trouble shoot. It's easy to hard mount the relay, clean up your wires with a loom and tag it with a label. You wouldn't even know it wasn't factory.

[@destinfranks801]

Eric o has videos of doing this as well, however on newer vehicles that aren’t that old I’m sure he prefers to repair it in the oem format

[@lorrinbarth1969]

@@destinfranks801 So you got no A/C. That really sucks with winter coming on and your defrost doesn't work. Throw in a relay.

[@mastergroda8915]

Don’t make the guy wait two years! Easily bypassed!

[@springfield4522]

I like watching the electrical diagnosis. Sometimes I can even follow along...

[@BDKennels]

The greatest lesson I have learned from you is to stop assuming. To identify the issue and follow the facts wherever that leads. Thank you.

[@cullenmiller8170]

I guess it’s time to snip wires and add a relay outside the power distribution center. 😂

[@eamonroad6388]

Or change the $1 relay inside. United Radio?

[@simonilett998]

@Cullen Miller Hahaha, I just made the same comment. It's time to 'Ivan it' by fitting an external relay🤣👍 If not that, I'd be in there with my soldering iron in seconds, and then off to my local electronics shop to source an equivalent relay, or any relay that will do the same job and fit in there somewhere👌

[@petenikolic5244]

@@eamonroad6388 Obvious thing but people do not like taking things to bits these days

[@simonilett998]

@@petenikolic5244 I think it's sad, nowadays so many things are built non-serviceable, or are throw away items that are not worth the time involved, or the risk of warranty claim headaches for most shops or technicians to attempt a repair. They are much better off, and less time involved or less risk to just replace it with a new one and move on...and more e-waste gets added to the mountain.

[@CoreyRaines]

@@simonilett998 The ole classic tipm bypass.

[@infinite97]

bypass that POS module and add in your own relay - seems simple enough based on the diag.

[@ShainAndrews]

Lots of people do just that.

[@knockywigglesworth1909]

We just add an external relay for any failed relay. Not hard, not expensive, & no more non replaceable relay!

[@alex1949]

As an advanced DIYer, I love my Autel 906bt MaxiSys. I've had it for about 3 years now, and it's paid for itself several times over. Love the bidirectional control, live data, module VIN writing, key programming, etc. Of course, the tool is only as good as the person using it which is why I love learning from your channel.

[@tschuuuls486]

I have a Autel AP200. Can read all the datastreams and codes. But they nerfed it, so it can't do active tests. Which is really annoying. They could've just let me pay a small fee every time I'd need to do an active test or watch an ad or something.

[@calholli]

I have the xtool D8, and it seems to be a direct copy of the autel. The layout and even the font looks virtually the same; as opposed to the Snap on or Thinktool, which are both quite a bit different.. For $700, the D8 is hard to beat. It works especially well with programing keys too.

[@littleshopintheshed]

Dealer probably was looking for a training video for their techs. Now they have one!!!

[@charlesgardner1848]

Watching your videos has been tremendously helpful over the past 6-8 months of watching as I am new to the trade and looking to minimize my mistakes

[@Exobanisher]

Just bought some of the headlight repair you suggest on your amazon page. Did my mothers headlights and they turned out amazing. Thanks for the videos and all you do.

[@CoreyRaines]

make sure to spray some clear coat over them after so they don't re yellow in a year.

[@spelunkerd]

I tried getting into a little PCB repair, but newer devices have some kind of epoxy coating to seal out corrosion. You have to scrape it off and hope you don't damage underlying components. And of course devices are getting smaller, it's harder to find diagrams with part numbers, and even if you do, it's harder to find component parts to finish the task.

[@linuspoindexter106]

Yes, it's all fun and games until you run into surface-mount components and multi-layer circuit boards!

[@Bizija123]

Very true. I tried to fix a door control module on an 01 Mercedes but that thing had epoxy coating all over it and worse of all, no schematics as it's proprietary garbage. Without schematics, impossible to fix.

[@overboostn]

Reminds me of the F150s with the fuel pump relay built into the fuse box. I bypassed a lot of those back in the day.

[@rogerrambit4447]

Definitely enjoy how you diagnose them electrical lines, GREAT JOB

[@tonycazares9717]

Great diagnosis thank you for taking the time to share your knowledge. Greatly appreciated 👍

[@billmaxfield7831]

Service data and wiring diagrams are often available for free at your local public library!! Great video Eric, thank you, sir!

[@tedpope517]

It was 88 degrees with no rust or crust here at 10:30 this morning. Love watching your diagnosis instead of a parts canon approach.

[@davehawk2130]

Great straight forward diag!! I'm working in Detroit Area for auto supplier. We're getting killed with all the supply shortages! LETS SHUT IT ALL DOWN!!!

[@jacquejecker4435]

Yes, the supply line problem is hitting us all. The inverter on my recently installed solar system for my house went bad, two months ago. they are saying maybe in another week or two. So I have a brand new solar system on my house that is gathering dust. BUT, at least this company is sending me partial checks to help with the monthly power bill. Love your troubleshooting techniques.

[@Papa7557]

Thank you Mr Eric O for your diagnosis wizardry ! As always you a smart and great teacher! I have been learning a lot over the years watching your videos. Much appreciated.

[@Ahto42]

With the early WK2, offical repair bulletin was to install just a regular relay, cut the wires from the PDB.

[@billjackson7947]

Pretty common issue we see at the dealership. What I like to do if the vehicle is out of warranty is instead of replacing the PDC, you can install an external relay. I just use the kit that’s available for the V62 recall for the GC and durangos. Same exact thing happens but for the fuel pumps.

[@chingonchacho]

how do you fix this tell us

[@scotthill1278]

The light inside the dongle is cool.

[@someguyonli]

I'm starting to think the reason Eric says that we can do it, is to get us to actually try, screw it up, and bring him the car. 🤣 You sir are amazing. Don't sell yourself short.

[@dillonmitchell1568]

I wish Eric o. Offered a service where I would pay him for some advice. I love his thought process and respect his work ethic.

[@stebertwoody34]

In the trailer shop we always check the trailing arm bushings and brake chamber clevis pins first

[@peterhodgkins6985]

"... on back order for 2 years ...". And THAT is why it's at your shop. Someone was hoping you'd pull a technical rabbit out of your hat I'm bettin'... ;) Can you imagine making the call, ordering the part, waiting a year only to have it show up and NOT fix the problem? No shop wants that liability! Good job as always!

[@johnboywaltonbeard4699]

Eric O'...I would just add an external Relay. Tap into the Control wire and the the Fuse. Fog Light type relay should work fine.

[@DAVIDBrown-zp8sz]

I vote for you to show us your soldering skills. I'll bet a pcb relay would cost a few bucks. Ivan would do it !!

[@theomurphyross8338]

Only thoughts on them bringing it from the dealer to a smaller shop like yours is they wanted the power distribution centre opened and repaired, given the part backorder.

[@Sacapuntas69]

Your skills are off the charts! I can say I was lost after "Test Light". 😲

[@edchenal821]

It appears that it comes easy to you but your trouble shooting skills are the Best.... Thanks for the videos.

[@davidplaster4576]

That's a nice scan tool, I have the MS906TS Pro, great scan tool, has built in TPMS programmer in it. Waited many years to upgrade to a quality diagnostic scan tool. I also have the 4 channel oscilloscope kit as well, paid over $3,500.00 for the setup. As a side note, I have 3 Chrysler minivans from 2002 to 2005, and I haven't had an issue with the TIPMs, I guess pulling all the relays and fuses, spraying it down with electrical contact cleaner and blowing the crap out if it with compressed air; and then finally loading all the contacts with dielectric grease has made them more reliable. I also removed all the plugs underneath, and did the same thing; clean the contacts and cover them up with dielectric grease. Chrysler should have done that when they made them, as they aren't exactly water and moister proof, so the dielectric grease helps keep moister away from the contacts. Yes, it does make the fuse box kind of greasy and messy, but haven't had an issue with the TIPMs.

[@huntnfishnuts5880]

I’ve had an Autel 906 bt for a few years and just upgraded to the ultra, I really like the ultra so far. Trouble with the mopar pdc’s started with TIPM and just went downhill from there. Just had one with an open in the circuit board for the abs pump.

[@JA-rc4uy]

I have been using the autel ms906 pro for about 5 months now, I bought the oscilloscope with it and absolutely love it.

[@gabrielmendez5655]

Beautiful Autumn weather

[@clinthelling3560]

I own a MS 906 BT. It's awesome. No wire to drag around is a blessing. And I can cast to my laptop with TeamViewer. I think you should do a video of that for viewers.

[@daveincv]

Unobtainium..parts are getting bad. nice video keep them coming.

[@JLange642]

That's where your local salvage yards become shopping places for parts like this I guess.

[@nonotthatoneguy]

I repaired the tipm on my wife's '13 grand caravan with about $5 in relays when the fuel pump wouldn't turn on unless battery voltage was above 11.3. Those relays are thrice the price now, but still less than the $200 online repair shops are charging. They're easy to replace for those of us with daily soldering practice.

[@billyfox384]

Always a smile watchin ur vids... I just wire in an external relay, similar to the fuel pump relays. Especially if the parts not avail. Thanks for all ur videos. Great job as always

[@jimbos1567]

I'm a retired State Trooper, and back in the 70's, Chrysler built their 440 magnum police cars with a new "Lean Burn Computer". We had at least four patrol cars at my post alone that burned up because of faulty circuit boards. Was scary just driving them. All those engineers and Chrysler still couldn't get it right.

[@victorcunanan6404]

You are true automotive technician. Mechanic inclines to mechanical works only while technicians is different, they trained to diagnose electrical or mechanical problems on a vehicles and they are no joke, they are theoretically skills and hands on too just like any ordinary mechanic but they know what their doing according to automotive regulations.

[@jefferp]

In my part of the world RAM trucks are very popular. Southland, no rust issues. Supply chain issues are causing problems even for common service parts. No oem brake pads and had to go to two dealers to get enough spark plugs. (I try to stay with oem parts) It was a problem getting new key fobs too. No amazon fobs. I’m willing to pay for “buy here, program here”. I’m almost ready to be proactive and order a TIPM/PDC and hope for the best.

[@johndunn7480]

Love your videos but watch for the entertainment. Surprised that you did not resort to an external relay knowing that the fuse box was not available. Thanks for your years of educational materials.

[@ronwatson4902]

That sucks for the car owner but still an informative and interesting video. My wife has an 04 Grand Cherokee and the ac has never been nothing to brag about.Good dependable car though. Thanks Eric!

[@Jp_1984]

Very interesting! My friend has a similar model Grand Cherokee. She had a really intense parasitic draw key off....long story short (pun not intended 😂), her power distribution module went bad keeping the A/C clutch relay stuck on!

[@amitrkolte]

I work at a jeep dealership, this year back in January I had a Grand Cherokee, exact same problem, dead battery caused with the ac clutch staying on and had to replace the power distribution center since the relay wasn't replacable.

[@bam6972]

@@amitrkolte the relay is replaceable. it just takes the fuse box being disassembled which is not hard at all. and the relay de soldered from the board and a new one put in.. if you can solder wires together then you can replace a relay with a bit of research on how to de solder components from a circuit board. and using a solder sucker. lol which is just a plunger you push in and when the metal melts you hit a button and bam all the metal "solder" gets sucked up. then just simply put the piece back in and melt a bit of solder around each pin and done. saves people thousands of dollars and take an hour to do. this way people dont have to wait months for a part to come in because there back order. and those pdcs or fuse boxes dont end up in landfills for a 50cent part maby a few bucks.....theres also alot of rebuilders on the interwebs that will do the same thing for cheap

[@amitrkolte]

@@bam6972 Dam, I honestly haven't thought about that. My experience still has a long ways to go.

[@kv2280]

@@bam6972 Given the TIPM/PDC issues have been around over 10 years, most people know you can either go into the TIPM and try replacing the relay or bypass it using an external relay. If you're a DIYer and the car is out of warranty, go for it, that makes the most sense. Even Eric said in the video that's what he'd so if it was his car. The issue is the time a professional shop must take would make it financially not feasible since it would likely be near the same cost to go through all the labour of tearing apart the TIPM rather than just replacing it. Also, they can't provide any kind of warranty to the customer. They could use a rebuilding service, but then the customer's car is down for a week while waiting for the repair to be done because their AC doesn't work. Given the supply chain issues, that's likely what they'd do. Or the external relay trick, if the customer is ok with that repair.

[@jerryking2418]

I believe you passed the audition. Great job.

[@shadetreemech290]

I could show you how to change a relay in a printed circuit board (or any other component for that matter). De-solder, remove , replace and re-solder a new one in. That is assuming that you could find a new one as you probably wouldn't find it listed anywhere. Maybe Newark electronics or Dig-a-Key.

[@genebrown9888]

My A/C was working perfectly, nice and cool, and then abruptly started blowing warm air on a return 180 mile trip Monday (93 degrees out there). I was sure it wasn't coolant, checked all the obvious fuses and no explanation why the clutch was not engaging and fan was not spinning. I suspected something electronic, a relay? but all searches for where it was came up empty. Then I found your video. I picked up at bypassing the built-in relay and tested the clutch as you did. Bingo, it worked. Then to be sure I tested again with the car running. Double bingo! The clutch engaged on the compressor and the fan came on immediately. Ordered a used PDC on eBay after finding there's no new stock anywhere and no estimate for availability. Replacement will arrive in a couple days. Thanks for the instructive video!

[@Invisible_Poop]

direct hit is usually $2200 a year, AllData $2,000, Mitchell OnDemand $2000... I have used all 3. Great stuff to have to compare and chit chat with professionals especially direct hit.

[@dshuster73]

I have that very same scanner. I did a lot of research for the budget I had and the 906 is what I purchased.

[@dans_Learning_Curve]

Time to have a guest appearances of PHAD! He'll solder in a new one for you!

[@jeffedgar562]

No questions or concerns just keep killing it

[@garrettc97]

Put the fuel pump relay kit in it that they used when that relay went bad on the circuit board. Did 2 of those last week ,relay kit from Auto Zone.

[@rayp.454]

Thanks Eric for the Autel vin number trick!

[@Jimmyjimbp89]

Cheaper option would be to install an external relay bypassing the original one since the control side still functions.

[@phinney4398]

Eric I love watching your videos I learn a lot.

[@randystjohn7939]

I ran into the same thing a few weeks ago. the clutch would not turn on, all inputs looked good and system had pressure. until I tried to locate the relay on the wiring diagrams did I find it was part of the circuit board. When I removed the pdc I found I had power from the relay and the clutch started working. banged on the pdc and clutch would work then not work.

[@richardthomas1743]

Moral of this story is to stay away from Fiat junks! Thank you Eric!

[@johnglave7958]

No problems with my 2012 500 Abarth or my 2018 500X

[@autotech8326]

Three things I was told when it comes to AC Diag 1. visually see if the AC clutch kicks on . 2. check to see if there’s enough refrigerant in the AC system. 3. check to see if the AC pressure switch is functioning.

[@tectalabyss]

If we don't bring back our on factory's soon , there won't be any parts at all. Great job Sir.

[@onestepatatime2346]

congrats on all the subs. you earned it sir.

[@waynehullihen3066]

Had a 2014 Patriot and the left front high beam went out. It was the TIPM. It was the most expensive headlight repair in my 62 years.

[@richardcrouse9074]

Always very interesting and entertaining Eric wonderful job

[@terryzimmerman2872]

Nailed it! Electric car pandemic... Thanks for all the great videos and laughs

[@chiluco2000]

What's scary is that a 5 year old car needs an expensive part because of a bad relay 😨😨😨 And each summer the heat seems to stay for longer, an AC is a must!

[@stationaryenginesworldwide]

great video Eric...and a two-year backorder ...thats nuts !! ...thank you

[@victorbellan8357]

If it was so simply, why didn’t the dealership find it ? Nice job, you make it easier to follow!

[@tylerrowe9973]

I am a little late to the chat, but I would like to converse on this diag. 1) did replacement of the PDB correct the issue? 2) when you had the test light on ground , and poking it on the ground/control side of the relay. You, in a way, made the test light a jumper wire to ground causing the compressor to click. Seems there was a grounding issue on the relay rather than a PDB issue. I feel to properly test the ground, you would want the test light on power and probe the control to see if it was giving the ground. Now this is utilizing the comment (this relay is ground controlled) and from what the wiring diagram. Thank you! Great video! I love watching electrical diag, eases my mind when starting a diag project for someone on remembering the steps and utilizing tools I have available. Keep up the good work!

[@tedschmaltz4346]

I've watched and enjoyed a lot of your content, and I can't help but get the impression that you don't care for Chrysler's build quality....

[@LadyAnuB]

Design choices in this case.

[@mr.fixit2181]

I got a 1999 dodge caravan

[@andrewhigdon8346]

I think the biggest problem with the Chrysler stuff, as I’ve been fighting an intermittent issue for FOUR YEARS, is in the computer modules. Something to do with heat. We all know heat causes resistance and resistance causes heat, and it’s a matter of usage, not engine coolant temp, and slightly related to ambient temp but not completely. Engine compartment temps definitely have been associated with my issue though. If it was just a connection issue at a connector, it would change with the orientation of the connector. It doesn’t. And if the connection was IN the harness, same thing, when that harness was moved dramatically, it should at the very least influence the symptoms. Also atmospheric pressure and dramatic chassis movements also are part of the intermittent issue, but not always. My car stalled at the same position in the same roundabout tow evenings in a row, but with totally different g-forces involved. Exact same spot though, which was bonkers, so the second time I turned around and tried to recreate it again…….nothing. After the first stall from that roundabout, it stalled again about five minutes later after some WOT fun and cresting a very tall bridge here in the Lowcountry of Charleston, SC. Which also seems to be related. Sometimes, after prolonged idling and a lot of engine compartment heat buildup, several minutes later, maybe ten to twenty minutes later, it has stalled at the exact top of another tall bridge and another overpass, not so tall, but in the EXACT SAME location! Within 100’ of the same spot, on a 60mph area, and elevation was one real similarity. Five different bridges and/or overpasses have given me the same experience. I’ve wondered about the gas tank pressure sensor. Still not sure, but no codes. Wondered about the intake manifold pressure sensor, but live data shows correct numbers. There is an ambient pressure sensor but can’t find it, and numbers always show correct. Dramatic changes in either direction, lateral, longitudinal, or elevation, coupled with some strong engine compartment heat, seem to be interrelated. It’s driving me crazy. Oh, and it might not stall, sometimes it’s an MDS issue, where it stays on, running on those four cylinders when it should not, also feels like torque converter locks and unlocks super easily, also when it should not, but FEELS like that, and could be the MDS, which gets verified by live data to be turning on and off, but can’t feel that, and never in the past could feel it, but SOMETHING is giving that sensation, and I am particularly in-tune with those sensations in my car. It really is crazy shit. About to replace the ECM with one from CarComputer Exchange. Fingers crossed, and I hate superstitious crap.

[@mrbigvanlife7130]

F I A T - Fix It Again Tomorrow

[@FrankRuiz66]

Build quality.. Lol

[@robinsonsauto]

I was just looking for something to watch, great timing

[@bobpaulino4714]

I've had intermittent failure issues and ended up taking the TIPM (Totally integrated power module) apart and and, with needle nose pliers, squeezed the prongs that accept the fuse and relay blades. Plugs are color coded beneath. Plastic tabs are junk. Don't be surprised, if despite your best efforts, you break one/some. Snap some pictures to assist with reassembly as far as how the looms were routed in relation to one another, and quick reference for fuses and relays. The prongs oxidize. Not sure if they are insufficiently sized and if heat contributes to warping. After running a piece of sand cloth between and squeezing the receiving prongs together I've not had any loss of power to fuse or relay issues.

[@MichaelSmith-mk2uj]

Hah! Love how you called out ALL the dumb reasons the part, like so many things today, are not available and on back order. Thanks for another SMA video! You rock

[@Boilerking76123]

The light in the plug in is genius

[@tv43405]

Thanks for making the time with another great explanation and instruction on how to.

[@wrightsrrt871]

I use the ms 906ts scan tool myself and there 4 way oslyscope mp408 and for an at home shop that dose general repairs and classic restoration prodjects these tools are all I need along with my power probe etc3000 short chaser another must have in my book!!

[@Archetype123]

Dang... Was low key hoping for a Wilbert's visit.

[@wrightsrrt871]

The scan tools also do relay testing turning them on and of and you just listen to make sure they click back and forth but im sure you know that, it just sucks that there's so many mechanics out there who don't mess with electric issues and trouble shooting them anymore.

[@markmckinley5989]

Guess8ng with a bit of searching there are rebuilders for that issue just like on the TIPMs. Hope can get fixed. Terrible idea to not make relays replacable.

[@MRrwmac]

Eric, Excellent troubleshooting!

[@jeffsmith2911]

I’ve had the same problem with the 14 ram power distribution was on back order. Found a factory one online at MAKs TIPM rebuilders. They offered rebuilt and new ones. When the new one came in it had Mopar part numbers on it.

[@charlieleyko6355]

Dotted line around perimeter of diagrams when looking at pic indicates relay part of board and in same picture dotted line around relay like you said is removable , Nice work on diag this concern .

[@watermanone7567]

Excellent video, Could you add a remote relay and make the AC work? Thanks

[@SouthMainAuto]

Yep you sure could :)

[@TheIronMedic]

I've got the mx 808 tethered it's been good to me so far except keeping it charged up. Love the diags keep em up 👍.

[@googacct]

From what it sounds like it would be a relatively easy to replace the relay since you can't get the part new. If you did not want to get into pcb repair, you could send the customer over the Ivan to replace the relay.

[@slcbodyshop]

Im learning a ton. Keep up the good work.

[@fredcollier1299]

If you can do it then NO - I can't do it but it's fun to watch!!!!!!!!!! Great video!

[@TheOmegaman69]

Good video, as always. I am a little confused about the relays and dashed verses solid lines. The A/C clutch relay is solid, and the Run/Start relay is dashed. This seems to indicated one of them is inside the TIPM (oh, I mean PDC) and the other is outside of it. You indicated in your test of the pin on the bottom that no power was coming through the Relay (control side). But, unless I missed it, you did not check the power on the Run/Start Relay (presumably the one outside the PDC). Just wondering about this. If the Run/Start Relay is outside of the PDC, could there be a problem with it? Still, great video and I am with you, cannot understand why the dealer could not have found this. Thanks for making these videos. They are greatly appreciated.

[@SouthMainAuto]

Great observation first of all and second of all I should have clarified in the video if the Run/Start relay did NOT have power coming from it we would have A LOT of accessories that did not work. I apologize for not bringing that up and thanks for pointing that out.

[@stunna7807]

If you smack the top of the TIPM with a flat hand you can turn it on. I did that once a year and now it’s every 10 minutes. Going on a trip now waiting for a TIPM. Might wire a 12 line to the compressor while I’m waiting

[@davescruton2829]

Definitely worth dropping at United Radio. Probably get it done for under $200.

[@DrLee65]

I love Eric O's honesty 💪🏾👍🏾😎

[@PabloDamon]

confidence makes easy

[@richardcoyle1793]

Heya again just reviewed and I heard you clearly say the testing the ground side of the circuit I just couldn't see if the test light was lighting up cuz your hand was over it my bad thanks for all your hard work and shared knowledge. Respect Rich C.