Sovol SV08 Firmware Update: Get Power Loss Recovery & Keep All Your Settings! (Klipper Guide)

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Update - Sovol provided the following changelog for v2.4.6: 1、Optimized mesh calibration temperature setting for slicing and printing temperature setting (start gcode M140/M190 command needs to be placed before START_PRINT command) 2、Added power-off resume function

[@Batchat2352]

So we can add those lines before the start print in orca or we must do the update first? Will i be able to do an adaptive mesh at the print temp instead of whatever the firmware is set for?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@Batchat2352 Not really sure. Watch my PETG video where I already provide a working solution for pre-print calibrations at print temperatures, so I am not really interested in point 1 → kzbin.info/www/bejne/j6fEZ6N4nKqla68

[@Batchat2352]

@@gerGoPrint3D wow i missed that part on ur video. Dam i can now print what i want at the temp i want without firmware blockage!!. Made it easy to know where exactly to put the line in between what. Thank you very much. Idk if you know but ur files are behind a paywall in cults3d when they were once free originally. You should try and put "demon klipper" and make a step by step guide on how to in a video. Lot of people claim its the way to go. Im new to klipper and configuring it, i dont speak coding, a new language to learn

[@MoeOuan666]

Just installed the update, that went super smooth, total 7 min including the backups. Also, you may be interested for your nozzle video part 2: My hack using K1 generic screw in nozzle in the sovol copper bloc used for sovol hardened steel nozzle is working without any hiccup, after print about 700 gr of PETG and 1kg of ASA (so quite high pressure and temperature). No leak, ASA is printing quite well with my DIY enclosure (cork panels instead of the metal one, works well and gives a vintage look ;-) ) at 280/90° while it was warp-party without enclosure, so I am quite happy with the printer, most of my issues were me beginning 3D printing. Bed is not that flat (0.35mm saddle deformation, but I went down to 0.25mm by tightening the 6 screws under the PEI plate differentially to compensate....To do better I would need shimming, but I do not want to decrease magnet strength as ASA was already able to pull the plate off the magnetic base). Now I am looking for cheap transparent panels to finalize my enclosure (make a better door/top than my current opaque solution, I did not find any ikea glass tablet that would fit unfortunately). So I guess I will go the acrylic/PC way... Also what is the OK toolhead temperature? Enclosed for printing ASA, inside air temp go up to 45° (good) but tool head temp reached 80° (I guess not so good). I may need to print a toolhead cover with a 3010 fan on top too cool down the toolhead electronic. At least if toolhead temp means that, I am not 100% sure.... After a few month I think it's a nice first printer with a crazy quality/price ratio, that can grow as one progress in 3D printing without need to upgrade or buyer regret. At least if you have some tinkering abilities, both mechanical and electronics....

[@gerGoPrint3D]

That sounds very promising. Yes we do need enclosure for ASA. And 80C for toolhead is indeed way too high. I recommend adding some cooling to avoid reliability issues.

[@drahga]

Any idea why I keep getting the "MCU ‘mcu’ shutdown: Rescheduled timer in the past" after the firmware update? I only started getting it after the update. It's becoming very frustrating. I really enjoy your videos.

[@3DWolfEngineering]

Thank you very much for the great coverage of that topic, good to see PLR finally being implemented in klipper... even tho it still has quite some potential Happy new year, and cya around!

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Thank you for all the kind support! It was fun to chat during the premiere :) Happy 2025!

[@Reds3DPrinting]

Hey Gergo. Can you help me out. I really want to do this update and have power loss recover but i also want to follow teaching techs multi toolhead tutorial. Do you know if there is a way to have power loss with the other firmware? Or is it lost when the firmware is swapped from stock sovol firmware to the third party klipper

[@gerGoPrint3D]

sovol's seems to be an implementation of YUMI_PLR, which you can find on Github. Hopefully its not too involved to install.

[@Reds3DPrinting]

@@gerGoPrint3D Thank you very much Gergo, as long as its possible, I will figure it out. Thank you again for all you do for us

[@JacksMacintosh]

I wish I could like this video twice

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Thank you for all your support :)

[@djsolstice8964]

My SV08 printer bricked it's self on v2.3.3. Wouldn't boot to the main menu. Had to flash the firmware yesterday and surprisingly found the new version for me... but I lost all my settings in the process. And annoyingly I had a power out 7hrs into a 7h30m print, a few days before this.... timing 😂

[@gerGoPrint3D]

There is a chance you can find a timestamped backup of your older printer.cfg → kzbin.info/www/bejne/qX6ulKmJqrNlmNU It might be worth a check.

[@drago2429]

6:41 I have a big question. Why did they use the 20-40hz frequency in the resonance_tester? In my case, doing the resonance with the change of the equalization gave me values ​​of: axisX 2HUMP_EI (49.8hz // accel=2700) axisY 2HUMP_EI (49.8hz // accel=1800) I changed it to the form in the printer.cfg 20-100hz axisX ZV (66.4hz // accel=17100) axisY MZV (63.4hz // accel=11800) The question is which one is the best for the sovol? and why? Thanks

[@gerGoPrint3D]

I think there is no point going higher, as such high movement speeds are not going to occur during prints.

[@drago2429]

@@gerGoPrint3D So I leave the resonance_tester at 20-40Hz. Yes or no? 😅

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@drago2429 I did.

[@samaridesign]

@gerGoPrint3D do you have recommendations if my SV08 appears to be ignoring the adaptive bed mesh at the start of each print? My print bed has a range of 0.8mm and it appears to print as though it is flat (too high in the center, but digging into the PEI sheet on the sides). I reflashed the 2.3.3 firmware and reimaged the EMMC with an adapter, but it still scratches the build plate along the edges. Any help would be appreciated! Thank you for your videos!

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Make sure your pre-print macro is called, what slicer presets are you using?

[@samaridesign]

@ I’m using the Sovol presets on OrcaSlicer, which calls the START_PRINT macro in the pre-print gcode. It does the auto home, QGL, and adaptive mesh correctly, but as soon as it starts the first layer the nozzle is not adjusting to match the mesh.

[@Liberty4Ever]

I've had my SV08 running for almost a week and I'm still designing and 3D printing upgrades. I'll post them on Thingiverse and Printables soon - my own take on TPU vibration dampening feet, an extrusion cable stiffener so the extrusion cable doesn't drag across the printer and print bed when not using the Teflon reverse Bowden tube (I prefer feeding directly from a reel mounted above), and a 3D printed enclosure that is insulated to aid passive chamber heating and is structural to stiffen the frame and dampen vibrations while also having two quiet exhaust fans to print PLA with the door open or to push air through carbon HEPA filters to extract fumes and microplastic particulates. Before I get too serious with the SV08, I need to shim the print bed. It has over 1 mm of warp across the bed! That's my only real disappointment with the SV08. I had already upgraded to the MicroSwiss hot end and quiet Noctua NF-A4x10 24V fan for the motherboard when I assembled the SV08. As soon as the current print is finished, I'll install the new firmware. I haven't made any real changes to the setup so I'm not too worried about losing my data but I'll make a ZIP backup just in case. I'll do all of the calibrations after the firmware update. Who knows? The new firmware might fix the WiFi and/or camera. Neither of those work on my SV08. 😕

[@gerGoPrint3D]

I don't think your wifi / camera is related to fw. Maybe bad connections?

[@Liberty4Ever]

@@gerGoPrint3D - When I upgraded to firmware 2.3.3, the camera worked for a few minutes and then stopped working again, and I haven't been able to resuscitate it. The fact that it worked briefly seems to indicate that the connections are probably good. The WiFi might not be working because the little WiFi antenna is under the printer, in an electrically noisy environment, inside the aluminum electronics enclosure, and my WiFi router is 20 feet away. I'll try the 5G WiFi router next to the SV08 to see if better signal strength allows the WiFi to work. I'll also verify that the WiFi antenna is connected and I might see if I can relocate it or use a better WiFi antenna, preferably outside the printer. I just realized that a WiFi dongle in the USB port might work, as it does on my Linux computer. That's easy to try. I'm not too upset about the camera not working. The SV08 is three feet to the right of my computer so I can keep an eye on it. Not having a working camera would be a much bigger problem if I buy a couple of more SV08s to make a small print farm in the basement for some large structural parts I'd like to manufacture.

[@AkosLukacs42]

@@Liberty4Ever For the camera, I would unplug and re-plug all camera connection from the camera all the way to the main controller. Maybe something is just loose?

[@Liberty4Ever]

@@gerGoPrint3D - Surprisingly, it looks like upgrading to the new firmware may have fixed my SV08's camera. It's been working ever since the update. The only other thing that changed was I discovered that I left the USB drive plugged in after the previous 2.3.3 firmware update. There was nothing on the thumb drive. The SV08 deleted the previous DEB file after the update, but the thumb drive was still plugged in and may have caused problems with interrupt interference between the thumb drive's USB port and the camera's USB port on the motherboard. The SV08 WiFi still isn't working. As expected, plugging in a USB WiFi dongle didn't work. Most desktop Linux distros have the driver for that USB WiFi but it's usually not included with single board computers used for machine control. I still need to fix the badly warped taco print bed, but the mighty SV08 has been knocking out some very nice prints this past week, running almost constantly without any problems.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@Liberty4Ever Oh so it was a USB conflict with the camera. Wifi adapters work with my SV07 / SV06 Klipper screen from Sovol and the Qidi Q1 Pro, where I actually use it too, because the built in wifi on the Qidi was a bit unreliable. Disappointing that the SV08 doesn"t have the drivers

[@SebastianKottke]

What a update 😮‍💨😮‍💨😮‍💨 sovol

[@gerGoPrint3D]

I actually like the new feature. Klipper is fully open, so nothing prevents us from adding more features on our own. The printer works well with the current versions, and I don’t see any benefit in updating the underlying system. I actually hate that Android and Windows are constantly (and automatically) updated on my other devices; each update is just a potential source of new problems and incompatibilities. Companies put significant effort and testing into the initial versions of software for phones, computers, and 3D printers, only to later break things with less thoughtful updates. By that point, their A-teams are working on new devices, and updated software receives much less testing and scrutiny. For internet-connected computers, improving security might make sense, but for a 3D printer? If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it. I like that most development and improvements happen at the slicer level, where we also have the option of waiting for feedback from early adopters and rolling back to an earlier version if things get broken in an update. But that's just my take. I can understand the thrill and hope a new version release brings.

[@anielMaximoD]

Great content, as always! Could you help me with something unrelated: My OKX wallet holds some USDT, and I have the seed phrase. (alarm fetch churn bridge exercise tape speak race clerk couch crater letter). How can I transfer them to Binance?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Thanks for the support! To transfer your USDT to Binance, restore your wallet using the seed phrase in a secure app (like Trust Wallet or MetaMask). Copy your Binance USDT deposit address, ensure the network matches (e.g., ERC-20), and send the funds. Double-check all details for safety! Happy new year!

[@demonfitnes]

Hi friend, I have a sovol sv07 where I updated the klipper and moonraker via mainsail but an error appears in the klipper that says to update the mcu and the rpi, could you help me with this, please?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

You shouldn't have. We are warning against doing that :) 1. don't update Sovol Klipper screen 2. if you do, make a backup first: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hqOmaa2Xi6h7r9U 3. if you did "1" without "2", here are 3 tutorials that will help: There is nothing to gain, but the Makerbase screen will become incompatible. You can try looking for fixes, KZbin does not allow links here but search for repo:fryc88/sv07 and repo:TomasOlsson/BrickedSv07-Sv07Plus on github There is also a working way to update to the latest Klipper, search for 3DPrintDaemon's How-to-Update-Sovol-Klipper-Screen-To-Latest-Klipper-SV06-and-SV07 on github. But again, there is really nothing to gain, Klipper updates are overrated imho, it's better to have a working well tested device than to constantly battle with new bugs every new update.

[@demonfitnes]

@ Thank you very much, wouldn't you make a tutorial on how to do this? I'm a bit of a layman when it comes to obtaining information

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@demonfitnes The linked video helps you with restoring the original system. If you haven't made your own backup, feel free to email me (address in my channel's about section) so I can share my backup of the software with you. You'll need an EMMC adapter, I link to options in the description of that video. As I am always making backups before software changes I never needed to unbrick, so I do not really have experience with the mentioned procedures, but from forum conversations it seems they do work. Good luck! This just reinforces to keep telling people to make backups :) But misfortunes like this always provide a chance to learn something new and it is always an amazing feeling when you manage to revive something that you thought was ruined. I am sure you will be able to fix this!

[@demonfitnes]

@ Yes, I want to, thank you from the bottom of my heart, but I couldn't find your email

[@demonfitnes]

@@gerGoPrint3D Could you give me your email here?

[@arminth]

It also rotates the screen by 180° when using a BTT 5" Touchscreen. Additional work to make it funtion again. Pretty disappointing not seeing any Moonraker, Mainsail or Klipperupdates...

[@gerGoPrint3D]

That's a bummer. See my video on HDMI screens, the screen rotation settings I used in there were retained → kzbin.info/www/bejne/l6a0ZZ6pea-aa8U

[@arminth]

@@gerGoPrint3D Had it working already. Another thing that is reverted is ~/KlipperScreen/ks_includes/defaults.conf . I had changed the default settings for PLA and also added a second Klipper printer to the screen. Had to do it all again.

[@Batchat2352]

U just clic one button and it flips back on

[@arminth]

@@Batchat2352 in general, you are correct and I did this when I installed it in the first place. My point was that they changed something on the orientation. An instead of again unscrewing the display from its case to reach the rotate button, i did it in software as described in the klipperscreen documentation.

[@faszkabani-fogoly]

Szia! Nem találom a Boraxos videód.Tudnál segíteni hogy találom meg? Köszi

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Szia! Nem került még sorra a borax használatára videómban, de tervezem a jövőben.

[@WendyGameing]

Hi Gergo! I know that maybe goes against the Sovol partnership guidelines, but have you ever taught going mainline klipper and run some input shaper tests on the SV08? I did not upgrade mine to mainline (too much headache for now) but after ran some input shaper tests turned out a few bolts werent tightened enough also still have some issues on the Y axis shaper graphs, but that will be sorted out later. For now just running walls on low acceleration speeds to avoid ringing and other issues. (I'm from hungary aswell btw)

[@gerGoPrint3D]

There are no partnership guidelines, I just think I can benefit the community better if I work with the stock machine as much as possible. But that doesn't rule out any such upgrades in the future. For now, it's more an "aint broke don't fix it" consideration, I am not missing anything in the stock firmware, input shaper seems to be working correctly too.

[@WendyGameing]

@@gerGoPrint3D Absolutely understandable. Btw nice vid! Thank you for the answer.

[@mikecrane2782]

Good info, very helpful when I get mine. 🤣

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Exciting times!

[@OzcroEUC]

Thanx Gergo for the update.... Question can you do a vid on how to update Moonraker.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

I don't have much experience with low level updates, and in a way I feel they are overrated. The printer works well with the current versions, I don't see any benefit from updating. I actually hate that Android / Windows is constantly (and automatically) updated on my other devices, each update is just a potential for new problems and incompatibilies. They put much effort and testing into the initial versions of software on phones, computers and 3D printers, only to then break things in later, less thoughtful updates. In case of internet connected computers it might make sense to improve security, but in a 3D printer? Ain't broke don't fix it.

[@Ichigo-World]

I like your videos, so much information in them. ... can i recover my sv08 with the emmc flasher to really factory default to delete all files? i want to have it clean =)

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Of course. I think Sovol has the clean EMMC image up on their server, but if you have trouble with it just shoot me an email I have the original FW image saved as it was when I received the printer.

[@neihe25]

That was only a config update and no update for klipper right?

[@gerGoPrint3D]

yes, it seems

[@webnyoung]

Serious question is this update possible for the mainline klipper leg?

[@arminth]

It makes no sense if you regularly updated your vanilla klipper.

[@Milkex]

I don't think we need to deal with this. they don't add power loss recovery to Klipper as default only because the head dev believes that most installs are on sd cards, which aren't great at constant writes. but if you have the emmc installed, you can install it from the Captains plr-klipper github

[@gerGoPrint3D]

I don't think this would be compatible. It seems to directly patch their config files.

[@ss1gohan13]

@@gerGoPrint3D Please share all of the config files and recent klippy log for review. Thank you,

[@3D_Printing]

There is a Resume option on reboot on the small supplied display For me, it leaves, it seems to leave a gap line, a 10mm cube test Looks like this sample with "PAUSE" at layer like this:- kzbin.info/www/bejne/gJyWhWxse7Csa7csi=LHlvwpvjCUMiAy1R&t=1127

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Thank you for the note! So you mean we can resume an interrupted print from the mini screen as well? We don't need to do it from Mainsail or the HDMI screen. I will check this. Good info!

[@3D_Printing]

​@@gerGoPrint3DGap in Print after recovery test which works. Sovol SV08 Firmware Update: Get Power Loss Recovery & Keep All Your Settings! (Klipper Guide) kzbin.info/www/bejne/oXSog6aXZs-Zl5Isi=apWV3RJWRlZ0mW6q

[@3D_Printing]

@gerGoPrint3D yes but for me same as pause at layer makes a gap between the previous layer and the next one. Odd the layer change, which us pause does not do this for me. I think Macro.cfg is maybe an issue. You have a layer shift, I have a layer gap, still connects but is too weak to use the part. Asking Sovol if any help about this, waiting..

[@zac_in_ak]

Can't wait for the tinkerers to get to improving this one

[@Batchat2352]

Im still breaking my head over making the sv08 first layer reliable. So far doing the manual paper z calibrate seems the way to go..

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Heat soaking for 5-10 minutes has solved the issue for me. The problem without heat soaking is that the bed changes shape after the initial ABL scan. I show it here → kzbin.info/www/bejne/rp2XpXWdgsiosKM

[@Batchat2352]

@@gerGoPrint3D i did that. I always soak my bed even for way longer, i also did the shim mod to untaco my bed. I have around 0.140 to 0.240 deviation

[@Those_Weirdos]

Man, I wish Sovol was a good company...

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Agreed, Sovol has room to improve, but the community is definitely a strong positive!

[@Milkex]

​@@gerGoPrint3Dthat's a very positive view on the matter. heck yeah! your channel and the unofficial discord has been a godsend

[@aasguard]

after updating my screen went upside down lol

[@gerGoPrint3D]

Interesting! Mine came up-side-down (see my HDMI screen video kzbin.info/www/bejne/l6a0ZZ6pea-aa8U ) I guess they applied my fix in the update. But I heard there is a switch inside, maybe it would have been enough to flip that. Might be worth a look.

[@aasguard]

@@gerGoPrint3D will try it but will have to wait till my 3 day print is finished

[@aasguard]

@@gerGoPrint3D thank you so very much worked like a charm i now have a correct way up touchscreen

[@kampfwuffi]

How to update moonraker, mainsail… manually. I guess Sovol will never update anything before i die.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

I don't have much experience with low level updates, and in a way I feel they are overrated. The printer works well with the current versions, I don't see any benefit from updating. I actually hate that Android / Windows is constantly (and automatically) updated on my other devices, each update is just a potential for new problems and incompatibilies. They put much effort and testing into the initial versions of software on phones, computers and 3D printers, only to then break things in later, less thoughtful updates. In case of internet connected computers it might make sense to improve security, but in a 3D printer? Ain't broke don't fix it.

[@kampfwuffi]

@@gerGoPrint3D They should add the Homing fix (no banging into axis), the preheat fix for PETG, factory reset fix and wifi config fix at minimum. The current software version is far from "working well".

[@Batchat2352]

Not worth doing imo

[@gerGoPrint3D]

You mean the update? I think having PLR potentially save a long print is worth the 15-20 minutes to install this.

[@Batchat2352]

@@gerGoPrint3D probably but what good is it if it doesnt auto resume only trought mainsail and causes layer shift.

[@gerGoPrint3D]

@@Batchat2352 It can save functional prints, where a 1mm issue like that is no problem, but losing a print would. I am kind of glad it is not fully automatic, because automatic PLR causes issues on my other printers.