Stair Landing With Hardwood Flooring - Hinky Series Pt 1

In this video I build a stair landing from leftover hardwood flooring. I used Old World Oak from Lumber Liquidators for this project.

[@toddbailey5198]

Another good video! If you have a roll of tape that is giving you grieve, try throwing it in the microwave for 10 -15 sec, usually softens it up a little and helps stop the problem you where having. Thanks for the great videos.

[@GotItMade]

Todd Bailey Great tip. Thanks for sharing!

[@gsh319]

Great stuff madman. Haha. If I only had a dollar for every time I said "I'll never do this again ". But yet I do, gotta love construction!!!!!

[@realworldcarpentryremodeli5868]

Love the content. Real world work. You do a good job of walking people through the project. Thanks

[@GotItMade]

Thank you!

[@vesterby76]

This was great. I have a small landing to do this weekend. Much simply lines, but you answered virtually every question I could think of prior to the start of the project. Thanks.

[@GotItMade]

Jim Vesterby Excellent. Thanks for watching. Hope your project turned out great!

[@emforu]

Your precision is refreshing!

[@GotItMade]

Thanks! I appreciate it.

[@vadimklimets8543]

I work with that glue all the time, it’s a lot easier to work with if you cut the nozzle a a little bigger than that. Good job on the angled landing! 👌

[@boyzwithboardz]

Looking forward to it. Thanks. Nice creativity on the removable railing by the way..

[@christenwhitney7682]

I like your videos sir. I could not find any other videos detailing how to put down real wood panels on stairs. Especially on landings. If you have made any videos on how to make that stair nose with the round over router bit please provide me a link. I'm a beginner when it comes to wood working and the associated tools but have found the courage to jump right in and give it a try. Thanks to professionals like yourself the tasks doesn't seem as daunting anymore. Much appreciated.

[@vadimklimets8543]

Working stairs from the bottom up is actually most ideal, that way the white riser would just sit on top of the solid hardwood and you wouldn’t need a SM to cover the gap. Also you could keep a bigger gap under the riser.

[@falconflooring2797]

Just a couple pieces of advice if you don't mind. "Don't want to over step my bounds" Undercut the riser and slide the flooring under it if you are looking for a expansion gap. Wood doesn't move with the grain, it moves against it. With that being said you can butt tight against the riser and no issues will arise. Regarding the last piece that you put it, the edges of the piece that are going against the wall, cut them at about 15 degrees. That way when you have the piece up and locked the tongue into the groove of the next board, the back will fall into place and have a nice tight fit with the 15 degree cut. Generally gluing down real hardwood flooring is a no no since panelization can take place and or the glue seal can be broken should the flooring expand. Regardless, a winder is a very small area of hardwood where unless there are or is a tremendous amount of moisture present, you won't have any issues. Best wishes my friend.

[@GotItMade]

Thanks for watching, Falcon. That section has been down for about four years now and no problems. In fact, it seems more solid than the rest of the stair case. :-)

[@falconflooring2797]

I fell across your channel via your stair case jig. Since I own a hardwood flooring company going into my 24th year, that includes us installing treads and risers. The jig you built, we built years ago and have it available for sale on our web site. Generally we left staircases to carpenters, however like yourself we ran into doing one ourselves and was looking for a better way to transfer the angle marks to the risers and treads at the time. Saw a jig back then at Home Depot and did nothing more then simplify the design. Used it on a job while a finish carpenter was present. Once he saw it he wanted it. From there we have been selling them like hot cakes. Good for you my friend on your intuition on building and selling them.

[@fadilguma]

Falcon Flooring I

[@timsheehan1874]

Falcon Flooring w Good job. Helped me a lot

[@EZFaceplate]

I think you give some fine tips on flooring thanks Bud!

[@GotItMade]

Thanks for watching!

[@boyzwithboardz]

If you have anymore treads to put down, would love to see that. I'm about ready to start the same project from some rough sawn oak and would enjoy seeing the treads go down. Tks for the content!

[@karlarneson4800]

well this is next on my list and I have the exact same problem. this should make it a lot easier.

[@milialex31]

Perfection personified!

[@GotItMade]

Thanks!

[@PagingDrSwiss]

Nice job

[@masmainster]

Great video, doing this exact same job, very helpful, thanks.

[@jimmorrison5604]

Awesome job

[@GotItMade]

Thanks!

[@haroldbrown1389]

looks good I like the work

[@GotItMade]

THanks Harold!

[@MilitaryERRN]

UUgghhh you make it look so simple!!! I'll hire you to come out here and do my stairs!!!

[@GotItMade]

Thanks for watching and commenting. I appreciate it! I'll tell you a secret. Finishing stairs sucks. :-) It's the magic of Hollywood that makes it look easy in my videos. If you were nearby I'd be happy to come help you out. Fill the cooler, order some pizzas, and we'd have a big ole time!

[@yvonnepinckney9382]

You're funny! Good job!

[@richardsousa6465]

yes thats true if its a glue down your screwed and just going to have to do you best with the material. If its a nail down you just work your way down the board and close up the gaps. i have a ratchet jack for floors that i use, you screw a 2x4 to the subfloor, put the jack in between the 2x4 and the plank and work the gap out all the way down the board and nail as you go so the board dosent move

[@jimhamby]

I too have a similar hinky with which to contend. I had surmised a similar approach and glad to that someone else out there is as crazy as me 😂 Nice work, sir. Thank you for being the guinnea pig...or is that a hinky pig?

[@davidchristen5335]

I had the same problem. Yep that sure was a hinkey cut! Good job buddy - did you brad nail the bull nose just for extra safety? Nice carpentry on the bull nose! I subscribed to your channel - keep em coming! David from 🇨🇦

[@fumiyama165]

i think u should start it from the other end. it make easier to connect

[@hysusfed007]

Thank you very much this was really helpful

[@GotItMade]

Ricky Rose No problem. Glad it helped out!

[@leelsw]

If you dry fitted it first you probably have been better working from the back to the front, if this was one of those times where you had to work from the front you could have angled the cuts on the corner piece to give you some clearance to lower it into position. Just a thought.

[@GotItMade]

Thanks for watching and commenting. Good advice. Working in the direction I did is not optimal but I wanted to make sure the front piece hit perfect on the landing transition piece I made. The "cheat" is that if you work quickly before the glue starts to set up, the entire assembled surface is slick and will slide around a little on the sub-floor. That gives a little wiggle room to get that last piece in and adjust everything just right. You don't have a lot of time but enough to dial everything in.

[@dennisbarone2269]

good job

[@phun4379]

I would start with the smallest piece and come outwards. Why? You avoid a confined small space to work with.

[@sthunda7132]

Nice work. I would like to install laminate for my landings instead of wood. I don't want any room for expansion gaps (just want the planks to touch the wall), am I required to nail down the landing planks even if I use a construction adhesive? Did you use a vapor barrier or underlayment?

[@GotItMade]

S Thunda Thanks for watching. The adhesive it adequate. It's strong stuff! I did not use a vapor barrier.

[@jaimecruz1262]

the 1/4 inch is all around? and also in each treads.? I ask because I gonna do it my stairwell soon and I will appreciated if you let me know. thanks and that was I good job

[@bigpussy2010]

Did you leave expansion gaps when installing the landing? I don't see that you did. Also, for staircases w/ two landings, does it matter if the wood floor is laid horizontally or vertically aligned with the landing tread? Thanks.

[@GotItMade]

+bigpussy2010 Yes, the is a smidge in there for that. I don't think the direction you run the floor matters. Just whatever looks cool. :-)

[@CAVERN1234]

subed and big thumbs up

[@GotItMade]

CAVERN1234 Thanks!

[@VinceEspositoJr]

Is there a part 2? I'm going thru this hellish task now and would like to see the landing meet the floor and how you finished that, Thanks.

[@GotItMade]

Thanks for watching. There's not a part 2 of this video. I'm not exactly sure what you are trying to see but take a look at my video called "Build a Stair Tread Jig". I think it might show some useful information. Good luck!

[@VinceEspositoJr]

Thanks. I was hoping to see how you handled the finished stringer/molding around the turns and finally at the bottom floor.

[@GotItMade]

No, I don't think I have any examples of that. Mine was far from typical so I had to deal with a lot of hinky stuff.

[@1joancalvet]

fantastic ok

[@bobtenison817]

i need to do the same thing. how did you round the nose off exactly

[@HasraAli]

love him, had me laughing.

[@GotItMade]

Hasra Ali :-)

[@reidc930]

How did you measure the angles on the landing tread that runs along the rise accurately? Nice job!

[@GotItMade]

carl reid Carefully. Ha! I used an angle gauge.

[@1basictrade]

from the angle you could have used a flooring nailer or even a finish nailer , you seen to be very crafty , anyway great video next time make them at least give you the glue for free.

[@GotItMade]

Randy Wilson Thanks for watching, Randy. I appreciate you sharing some tips!

[@anrivera1975]

Just glue, no nails?

[@ibrahimwehbe1153]

I see a person trying stuff and filming to show people how to try stuff without really showing how he really tried that stuff

[@johnarbuckle9643]

Start with the last piece.

[@raullopez4990]

WHY YOU DONT REMOVE THE BASEBOARD,OR USE A QUARTER ROUND ?

[@nickhategan1362]

You should have start with "last piece", first. Makes it easier.

[@TrussttN01]

I’d think the small one would be the easiest to tweak though. I’d rather get the front one perfect.

[@rtkevans]

Seems you got lucky. I have heard horror stories about LL. People in the know complain that many LL boards are milled 1/32 to 1/64 inch too deep at the ends, which results in a floor full of gaps. The crosscuts are often off square as well. My experience has been better to go with a mainstream brand like Bruce...

[@kzrr7009]

Calculus and stuff lol

[@robandrewscc]

I like your jig, nice and simple. I'm currently building one with no problems. How ever, I live in Canada and some of our stringers are bowed or cupped. Do you have any advice for a jig that does more than just straight lines (some kind of pin gauge would be ideal) Also I cap triangle and kite shape treads. Do you have any advice for making templates. I currently transfer measurements to hardboard, test and then transfer to oak treads. Thanks again. Instagram : #FlooringbytheFoot

[@popcornceilingremovalbucke9793]

Excellent Video! Have a tough landing similar to this that I have to deal with for a customer when I install their new stair treads. This definitely helps me to plan out how I'll tackle this. Thanks so much! Check us out on youtube to see our new product for popcorn ceiling removals!

[@GotItMade]

+Popcorn Ceiling Removal Bucket Cool. Glad it helped out. I'll check out you page in a bit!

[@ByakuyaCoD]

@richard sousa That seems like a lot of work for something that is pretty simple to solve with some skill... hahaha Just hammer 1 side in, staple/nail/wtver it well, and work your way up the board. Dont waste money and loads of time with stupid jacks....... lol

[@overthemoon9941]

Why would this need to be a 13 min video...lol..??

[@susiandrickking1960]

'cuz folks like me need some ideas!

[@rtkevans]

Lumber Liquidators???!!!! NOOOOOOOOO!!!!!!