Star Wars Imperial Assault Painting Guide Ep.36: Jabba The Hutt

Hello! This is a beginner's guide to painting Jabba The Hutt from Fantasy Flight Games' Star Wars Imperial Assault (Buy here: amzn.to/2ohNOja)
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0:29 - Painting Stages
0:54 - Base Colours
8:28 - Shades
11:42 - Eyes and Face Highlights
16:46 - Finishing Touches
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Paints used:
Caliban Green
Loren Forest
Ungor Flesh
Gorthor Brown
Rhinox Hide
Bugman's Glow
Athonian Camoshade
Agrax Earthshade
Skrag Brown
Yriel Yellow
Ceramite White
Armageddon Dust
Stormvermin Fur
Nurgle's Rot
Nihilakh Oxide
-Airbrush: I'm using the Iwata HP-C Plus (buy here: amzn.to/2ozbziX or for the UK here: amzn.to/2k7AAmQ)
The brushes I used for this video were a Series 7 Size 2 Windsor & Newton, and a Series 33 Size 2 Rosemary & Co.
All music composed by and © copyright owned by Sorastro.

[@cerethpainting6777]

My 2 and a half year old daughter loves your videos. She now paints her toys with poster paint after watching you! Thanks for the wonderful channel!

[@Sorastro]

+Cereth Painting Aww that's too cute :)

[@FKA_Skull]

I’m going to have to watch the movie again, I never would have considered green as a shade in the painting of Jabba, I figured it would all be browns

[@swordsman111982]

what cruel fate is this. I am moving soon and have been holding off on packing my painting table up in the hopes this guide would be posted. Guide showed up this afternoon for me, I packed up my table this morning. Awesome guide as always.

[@Sorastro]

+Kevin Doh! Thanks Kevin. Well, the video will still be here once you're settled into your new place. Good luck with the move :)

[@swordsman111982]

Sorastro's Painting thanks man

[@swordsman111982]

Sorastro's Painting finally got back to painting. My Jabba looks amazing, thanks for the guide.

[@julienstx8574]

Awesome guide as usual. Excellent explanation of wet blending. Masterpiece!

[@Sorastro]

Thank you Julien! I'm glad you liked the wet blending :)

[@Narstrand6]

Gorgeous and very inspirational, as always!

[@Sorastro]

+Narstrand6 Thank you so much! :)

[@michaeljdauben]

Another great tutorial. I loved watching you do the wet blending, I've had trouble with that in the past. The end result was a really nice Jabba.

[@Sorastro]

Thanks a lot Michael! It's a fun process - if a little scary at first; I think the glaze medium really helps though :)

[@theredstonefortress]

I love the yellow look of the skin, looks far more like the film than other paint jobs I've seen. Great one!

[@Sorastro]

Thanks Oliver! I'm glad you like the colour choice :)

[@alrethianscraftsbattles]

Absolutely stunning work again my friend!

[@Sorastro]

+Alrethian Thanks mate!

[@joestaudi4671]

it looks always so easy in your video!! great job

[@Sorastro]

Thanks a lot Joe! I'm glad you like it :)

[@Tracks777]

Brilliant work! Keep it up!

[@Sorastro]

Thanks mate! I'll do my best :)

[@Mordraen]

Hugely impressive work as usual Sorastro !

[@Sorastro]

Thanks a lot Mordraen! Much appreciated :)

[@SPBurt1]

Best tutorial for wet blending that I have seen. Thanks! I will practice on some reaper lizards before attempting Jabba.

[@Sorastro]

Thanks a lot! I really appreciate that. :)

[@Ashiitaka2]

As always great. Keep it up!

[@Sorastro]

Thanks a lot Ashiitaka2! I'll keep doing my best :)

[@belahajnal]

Amazing work!

[@Sorastro]

Thanks a lot Michael! I'm glad you enjoyed the video 😀

[@LordBartholomeus]

Very inspirational to figure out how to best blend different skin tones on a large miniature! Gotta be quick with this wet blending, but I'm gonna give it a try!

[@Sorastro]

Thank you LordBartholomeus! Don't forget that Vallejo's Glaze Medium does a great job of slowing the drying time so you have longer than you might think to work with the paint :)

[@LordBartholomeus]

Could indeed be exactly what I need, will do! Thanks :D

[@Sorastro]

No problem! They also make a pure retarder which also slows the drying time but is somewhat thick in consistency which is why I prefer their glaze medium. Good luck! :)

[@vv6562]

I had hard time painting narrow spaces of the eyes. The paint neither attached to them nor made the desired degree of contrast, so remembering the previous experience with leather gradient I decided to use cassandora yellow and found out the shade suits well. That also helped me a lot to converge belly and face zones where I had more yellowish and ochre. I thank you for guiding a beginner's mind to be able to cope with the situations in painting! Along with mixing colors experience and after painting a huge set of imperial assault figures now I feel like I'm able to paint other miniatures even without the corresponding guide. x] But work with metal is still a pain mainly because of lack of the proper light and optics.

[@terrybasset4024]

Great tutorial on wet blending. Excellent finish.

[@Sorastro]

Thanks a lot! Much appreciated :)

[@danielroldan431]

Amazing job!

[@Sorastro]

Thanks Daniel! Much appreciated :)

[@sabbione2]

I thought the Jabba I painted was very good. I was so proud of him.... Then Sorastro's Jabba arrived. :(

[@Sorastro]

Doh! Thanks Riccardo :)

[@sabbione2]

Hey Eldarc, here is my Jabba (with some friends): goo.gl/photos/n4JiyK8Y6r9WGoBo6 I still think it is ok, but nothing to do with Maestro Sorastro. :(

[@Sorastro]

Hi Riccardo! I think you've done a great job with your Jabba and friends! :)

[@LaPantalladelMaster]

Riccardo Simoni yep! Pretty cool! Good job =)

[@sabbione2]

thank you Maestro :)

[@deathscytex]

Amazing job as always Sorasto! I'm on the Nexus at the moment (painting in order by your episodes) and look forward to painting jabba. Looks really good.

[@Sorastro]

+Joshua Solis Thanks a lot Joshua! Good luck with those critters :)

[@TheRunesmythe]

Amazing work as usual. I was very impressed with how his eyes turned out; I realize Jabba was somewhat larger than a lot of other miniatures but the eyes are never easy. With many other details, you can sort of hide any mistakes by blending them into the rest of the paint job or incorporate into other areas as if they were always a part of the plan, but if anything goes wrong with the eyes it tends to stand out glaringly and you wind up just having to do them over.

[@Sorastro]

Thank you sir! I totally agree; the eyes are usually the focal point of a figure, but especially so with Jabba (there's little else going on with the rest of the body really) :)

[@wouterdhondt5642]

Typical, the day after I finish painting mine you post a tutorial. Nice job as always, love your video's

[@Sorastro]

Doh! Thanks Wouter :)

[@Scannatovivo]

you make it look simple!;) great video as always, you are an inspiration!

[@Sorastro]

Thanks a lot Scannatovivo!

[@stevenagelutton4322]

amazing work as always! It's so fun watching the model progess. Often I think you've 'ruined' the model, like when the colours were first applied, but then the model always turns out perfectly.

[@Sorastro]

Ha ha - thanks! It's true; things can look pretty bad initially :)

[@Brian-yc4mi]

Magnifico!!!! As always...

[@Sorastro]

+Brian Thank you Brian! :)

[@DalleDC]

So freaking good :) thanks for your videoes!

[@Sorastro]

+Daniel DC Thanks Daniel! Much appreciated :)

[@halogu117]

I feel like it's been a while since your last video! Glad to see you posting again :)

[@Sorastro]

+Jeff Phillips Hi Jeff! Yes, I had a trip abroad and some family time during the school holidays, but am back to my regular schedule now :)

[@halogu117]

Awesome!

[@mikeljokinecheveste1287]

It has been a long time since your last tutorial(well, not so long, but it has seemed). Great tutorial on wet blending, and the eyes are spectacular! Good job, as usual. P.S. I hope you have had fun and success in your American tour.

[@Sorastro]

Thanks Mikel! Yes I had a great time in Washington DC! I'll definitely be returning for next-year's Stele Open :)

[@SoloBoardGamingKnight]

So that’s how you blend! 2:20 I spent all weekend and most of this week trying and failing to do that

[@Sorastro]

Hey! Yes - it's a fast and fun way to quickly achieve a gradient :)

[@MartinTelinius]

Fantastic job! You are an inspiration to me when I am painting my models. When there isn't a video on some of the models like Dengar, I really struggle.

[@Sorastro]

Thanks Martin! Dengar does have quite an interesting palette doesn't he! I'm sure I'll get to him soon though.. :)

[@MartinTelinius]

It's not just that, but the fact that he is only visible for a split second in the films and that there is little or no art showing his lower body. However, I found out that the blaster he is using is an exact copy of the German WW2 machine-gun, the mg34!

[@SteinerSE]

Awesome job as always! I'm buying expansions and blisters chronologically so I'm still quite a bit off wave 8, but I'll get there!

[@Sorastro]

Thanks a lot Thomas! :)

[@mikemee8002]

Another ace guide, I need to catch up on your episodes though!

[@Sorastro]

Thanks buddy! There's no rush though - my videos aren't going anywhere :)

[@victorsallant6127]

Good job, has left a very realistic figure

[@Sorastro]

Thank you Victor! I appreciate that :)

[@MrCrystalwarrior1]

I bought a few of these for my own pleasure, as I wanted to expand my Hutt criminal Empire set, and the Black Star Hutt Crime Syndicate have a black lightning tattoo from above their right eye, descending down to their right cheek. To cut down a lot of painting time, if you're not up the standard of these videos yet, you can find lightning shaped decals in both the Space Marine transfer/decal sheet and some Chaos transfer/decal sheets, too. Careful cutting must be applied to pare away the outer circles on the Space Marine decals, and apply a good coating of Micro-Sol decal softener before and after applying the decal to the face, as this will help it settle correctly, and dry into the creases. DO NOT dab the decal with a tissue, as that will break it apart. Allow it to dry naturally. If you don't have any Micro-Sol, you can also use Jayes floor cleaner fluid, which works MUCH better, but must be left for a minimum 24 hours before touching the miniature again, or it will peel the paint and decal off together. It also takes away the shine of the decal, leaving a pure matt finish, and takes any kind of varnish you like to preserve the paint job, but only if you spray the varnish on, and don't brush it on, as the thinners in the varnish can break the decal up after reacting to the chemicals in the Jeye's fluid if you brush it on. I speak from much experience here :-[ just wanted to pass that tip on to anyone watching your videos who wanted to expand their Hutt forces or paint a Hutt from a different crime syndicate, or simply add a few decals to their figures, to add a touch of individuality, as there are many Hutt images to be found, and many are quite heavily decorated/tattooed at times. Hope you don't mind my using your comment boxes to pass on the odd tip :-) Paul :-)

[@Sorastro]

+Paul Todd Thanks Paul! And tips are always welcome :)

[@tutubeater1]

awesome job, sorastro! wet blending used to be one of my favorite techniques. have you considered using a filbert #4 or #6 brush? you can basecoat much more quickly with one and wet blend larger areas as well! for anyone doing this technique keep in mind you must MOVE FAST before the acrylic starts getting tacky

[@Sorastro]

Thanks tutubeater1! I hadn't heard of those brushes - thanks for the tip! :)

[@vorrachartlapsomboon4504]

love it

[@Sorastro]

Thanks Vorrachart! :)

[@Bobfett1982]

This is GOLD! You really inspired me to order paints and brushes and start painting myself :) Any tips on pre shading if you don't own a airbrush?

[@Sorastro]

Thanks Bobfett! Sure - just prime the mini in black first, then provide just one or two light passes with your white from above; just take care not to over spray which could kill some of the detail on the mini :)

[@ben-niferneff2848]

This is what I do, using P4 primer when I can, it is fairly thin

[@MenzaCrow]

Great videos! Thanks for sharing, they are really enjoyable and illustrative. In this type of minis have you considered to use airbursh? Thanks for your effort and job.

[@Sorastro]

Thanks Victor! I tend to prefer use techniques that people can follow who may not own an airbrush :)

[@Kojak0]

Very nice job on what I imagine is a pretty straightforward figure to paint. One thing that surprised me however is that you went with hellow for the face and belly; something a little more khaki-like seens to be more right for a movie figure. Which reminds me - Jabba seems to have a darker and more dirty green color on his back, more akin to say Vallejo's extra dark green.

[@Sorastro]

Thanks Kojak0! You do raise some interesting points concerning the colours and I don't disagree. It is worth remembering however that I'm painting under very bright lights with a daylight colour temperature - a far cry from the dim, shadowed, colour-graded environment of Jabba's palace. I think if you were to place the real Jabba puppet under these lights (or take a look at the Madame Tussauds replica in the flesh) you'd find the colours are a lot brighter than they may seem in the films, and likewise - I'm sure I could photograph my painted Jabba and colour grade the image like in the movies and it would look quite different :)

[@Kojak0]

Probably - but isn't it the point to paint like the light IS different? I mean, the glow you made from the fire giant's sword looked so damn real I could swear that sword was in fact casting light. (This is also why we paint shadows and highlights - to indicate that the light cast on the model or figure is different from the actual light)

[@Sorastro]

I take your point; the problem is that Jabba appears in a wide range of very different colours depending on the scene, and the format that the movie is being viewed on (and the movie!) so there really is no single "correct" way to paint him. I guess I've just taken the safe route of selecting colours that I feel most closely match the actual Jabba regardless of scene lighting and colour grading. Now, in cases where there is a definite local light source on the miniature (like the fire sword) I might go the OSL route, and occasionally I'll make up a light source to add interest (such as with IG-88 as inspired by the box art), but usually without a local light source I just provide a generic global light. Having said that, I think it would be cool to pick a certain scene and try to replicate the light of that particular moment!

[@SenetTheSnek]

Jabba: Do fabulous job on painting this sorastro. Mee will wamma u do modest sum of 25,000 che it tah be added tah myo collection C3PO: The Illustrious Jabba says he is greatly impressed with your craftmanship and will gladly pay you 25,000 peggats or any form you wish.

[@Sorastro]

Ha ha, thanks buddy 😁

[@matrixrevived5488]

I was waiting for you to paint my favorite character! I am not disappointed, good job!

[@Sorastro]

+Matrix Revived Awesome! Thanks mate - I'm glad you like it :)

[@fossrus1983]

Hi Sorastro. First, I'd like to say that I love your work, and that you have inspired me a lot! I am now looking at a air brush set (I have a LOT of miniature based games coming soon), and I was wondering what kind of compressor you use or would recommend? (I couldn't find this info on your site). I am happy that you are now able to do this full time :) Keep up the good work!

[@Sorastro]

Hi Sasha! Thanks a lot for the kind words! I'm really no expert on airbrushes/compressors but I'm happy to share with you what I bought. I got this "bundle" from element games: elementgames.co.uk/paints-hobby-and-scenery/airbrushes-and-accessories/airbrush-and-compressor-bundles/premium-airbrush-bundle :)

[@thanasisgeronimos9124]

Leeeeeeeeeaaaaaps of faith!!!!! huuuuuge ones

[@Sorastro]

Ha ha.. it's not such a leap of faith if you've bought a second Jabba to practice on before filming :)

[@thanasisgeronimos9124]

cheateeeeeeeeeer!!!!!!!! hahahaahhahahha...you have a point.!!

[@Sorastro]

Ha ha - It's just my going the extra mile to ensure I've found a simple and effective recipe that is easy to replicate :)

[@jonathanvanasse6102]

Nice work! -- I might try a similar color scheme and technique on some lizardfolk minis I have.

[@Sorastro]

Thanks Jonathan! I bet that would look great for your lizardfolk :)

[@juankulas5283]

We missed you! It has been too long :-( Is Blood Rage still on the horizon? Thank you for all you do!

[@Sorastro]

Thanks Juan! Yes, I've had a busy month with travels, and family stuff but I'm back to a more regular schedule now :) And yes - I will still be covering Blood Rage; the next episode will be in June. :)

[@darkowl9]

Fantasy Flight really do take the mickey sometimes. In an expansion called "Jabbas Realm", unless you want a cardboard stand-in, you have to buy Jabba separately...

[@rodrigootavioguerreiro1685]

Sorry for my ignorance, but I have some doubts. 1. What kind of glue do you use to create bass with grass and soil? 2. What type of dough do you put for the miniature? Do not detach from a holder? Thank you for producing the best videos about painting in miniatures

[@Sorastro]

Hi again! 1) For bases with grass/soil I like to use Vallejo's basing pastes (like you can see here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hp6qqKilrdp9arcm50s). To stick the grass down I use PVA glue. 2) I use white tack (poster putty) to stick the figure to the plastic top. Thanks!

[@rodrigootavioguerreiro1685]

Many thanks soras! you are the best

[@Sorastro]

No problem Rodrigo! :)

[@mepp3814]

Without having to buy a second Jabba due to a failed experiment, but I am wondering if it is possible to do the model a bit more in the browns with the wet brush and then go back and dry brush in some of the green as a highlight to achieve a more slimed over effect. The same with the browns over the tans. It seems the original RotJ foam puppet was painted that way.

[@Sorastro]

+Mep P Absolutely you could :)

[@Rikalonius]

I take it the fresnel shading portion is a given?

[@rodrigootavioguerreiro1685]

amazing job!!!!!! omg. Do not you like to use the retarder medium, from vallejo?

[@Sorastro]

Thanks you Rondrigo! Sure it's OK.. I just find it a little bit thick whereas the glaze medium is pretty thin and smooth :)

[@rodrigootavioguerreiro1685]

thx soras! I think it's better to use glaze

[@Sorastro]

No problem :)

[@carsonbarnard8249]

what size brush are you using for the belly folds and arm folds

[@Sorastro]

Hi Carson! That brush is a Rosemary & Co Series 33 size 2 (it's slightly old and thin!). The capillary action of the thinned paint actually makes that bit quite easy to do. :)

[@PedroSanchez-kq5du]

Are you going to do painting videos for Massive Darkness from CMON?? I'm pretty sure a lot of viewers would love it, keep going, your'e amazing!!

[@Sorastro]

Hi Pedro! I'm afraid I have too many series on the go at the moment to take on Massive Darkness. Sorry!

[@PedroSanchez-kq5du]

Too bad :(

[@Sorastro]

I know! The minis are awesome but I have to draw the line somewhere or I'll just make everyone unhappy by taking on too many series and not delivering enough of each.

[@PedroSanchez-kq5du]

Sorastro's Painting you have a good point there my friend! Guess I'll be alone for my painting process on massive Darkness😖

[@Sorastro]

Well don't forget you can use the same techniques (and many of the same colours) as in my Black Plague videos (such as for dark metallic armour, flashy swords etc.) :)

[@Azieru82]

What brushes do you use for painting your miniatures?

[@Sorastro]

Hi! These days I just use a size 2 Series 8 by Rosemary and Co: www.rosemaryandco.com/watercolour-brushes/pure-kolinsky-sable/series-8-pointed-round :)

[@maximelb1677]

Hello, great work, following it with deep interest, but im a bit lost.. Why using glaze medium instead of water or thinner (like tamiya X20A) Thanks for ur works, really inspiring

[@Sorastro]

Hi Cyaken! Thanks for the kind comment! Regarding the glaze medium - I like to use it for wet blending because it has built in retarder which slows the drying time, giving me more time to manipulate the paint on the mini. I've actually found it impossible to get hold of lately so I'm using an artists retarder by Golden instead :)

[@maximelb1677]

@@Sorastro I just bought the liquitex retarder, aiming having some results in wet blending. Will this do the work ? Also, had to ask : why no games workshop minis ? See ya in next tutorial x)

[@maximelb1677]

I mean, i Know that a retarder is not a glaze medium if its only the retarding property ur searching for, why no using retarder and thinner ?

[@Sorastro]

Hi! Yep - you can use whatever you like.. I haven't tried that many retarders myself but I find some of them can be a little thick and gloopy (such as the Vallejo retarder) whereas I really liked the smooth consistency of the glaze medium is all. Regarding GW minis, I mostly like to paint minis for games that I intend to play, and although I have Blood Bowl primed and ready, I just haven't been that into GW games for a number of years. There's also something I find a bit overblown/overwrought about the aesthetic of the GW figures that I'm not that into, but hey - I never say never... :)

[@1c0n0fs1n]

Nice video. It's possible to download or buy your BGM?

[@Sorastro]

+1c0n0fs1n Hi! The music? I'm slowly working on preparing the tracks for a release a bit later this year :)

[@1c0n0fs1n]

Thank you for the reply. I like your music a lot, it's somewhat epic, dark and fascinating at the same time. Could I ask you just one thing? I''m new to painting minis and I'm about to begin with Imperial Assault. I would like to know what's the use of Glaze medium, Lahmian medium and 'ardcoat and the differences between them.

[@Sorastro]

Thanks mate! OK, Glaze Medium and Lahmian Medium are fairly similar - they're usually used an alternative to water when thinning paints because they produce smoother, more even coverage. The main difference between them is that Vallejo's Glaze Medium contains retarder which slows the drying time; this makes it ideal for wet blending because it keeps the paint on the mini wetter for longer. Now I personally just use water to thin most of my paints, but I use glaze medium for wet blending and I like to use Lahmian Medium for thinning my Citdadel Shades because I like how it helps with the flow and evenness of the shade. :)

[@1c0n0fs1n]

Thank you for the info!

[@NecroMancer84]

Is there a reason why you don't use a wet pallet? I'm still pretty new to painting and I keep hearing that I should use a wet pallet. What are your thoughts?

[@Sorastro]

+Chris DeMint Hi Chris! I often use a wet palette when I'm not filming; I think I like a plastic palette for the videos as it helps me to keep things clear and (hopefully!) easy to follow. Wet palettes do take more effort to set up etc but sure are handy for keeping the paints from drying, and they also encourage a freer approach to mixing colours. I'm happy to use either and I think it's certainly a good idea to at least try a wet palette :)

[@NecroMancer84]

Sorastro's Painting Cool thank you! I use one and I find it really useful. I have one more question if you don't mind... what type (brand) and size of brushes do you normally use?

[@Sorastro]

Hi Chris! I typically use Windsor & Newton (Series 7 sizes 1 and 2) and Rosemary & Co (Series 33 Size 2) :)

[@KujoPainting]

Com Sliak Nye! Ho Ho Ho....

[@Sorastro]

Lol mate :D

[@jenniferconniff1129]

Are you going to be painting Drokkatta anytime soon?

[@Sorastro]

Hi Jennifer! I'm sure I'll get to him eventually but not for a while.. :)

[@PappaTrond]

Soundtrack: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iF6le4mBZq2pgck Mr. Loverman (Jabba)

[@Sorastro]

Lol Trond :)

[@SanPistone]

Wow, dude.... I'm watching to my hands now... I don't know how you can paint with these stop hands...

[@cameronlukan1908]

Hey everyone, I'm thinking of getting into miniature painting as a hobby (not for use in any game) but I don't really know where to start. Does anyone have any advice of a good jumping off point?

[@David-And-A-Half]

If you like their models, Warhammer is a good place to start. Their KZbin channel, Warhammer TV, has tutorials like this but they don't use harder techniques like airbrushing or wet blending. Otherwise you could try larger models and work your way down. There's no real need to but if you like stuff like X-Wings and Gundams there's tons of cool vehicle models. Really anything will work. If you just find a local hobby shop and go poke around you'll find something cool. Just start slow and don't expect perfect results your first try.

[@Sorastro]

Hi Cameron! David makes some great points. I'd only add that painting zombies might also be a great way to get started since they don't have to be amazingly neat and you can always cover mistakes with blood :) (This video might help you with that jump: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gn6yhaCFmM1-r7M)

[@cameronlukan1908]

David That seems smart! Thanks a lot!!

[@cameronlukan1908]

Sorastro's Painting Awesome!! I really appreciate the tip, I'm going to see about starting my new hobby ASAP

[@Sorastro]

No problem! Welcome to the dark side :)

[@stormquiver]

I find wet blending really daunting and hard, any tips?

[@Sorastro]

Hi Jordan! I find thinning with Vallejo's Glaze Medium really helps. I'd suggest simply practising on a spare mini and pushing past the fear barrier. It's one of those processes that's somewhat loose and tricky to verbalise - which is why I let that sequence in the video play out with less editing than I might usually do. Just don't worry if things look a little rough at first; you can always go over things again later. :)

[@samh62695]

Any alternative to ungor flesh you can recommend?

[@Sorastro]

Hi Sam! Do you mean from the Citadel line?

[@samh62695]

Sorastro's Painting yeah citadel paints.

[@Sorastro]

Hmm I don't have my paints out at the moment as I'm editing, but I'll have a look tomorrow and get back to you :)

[@Sorastro]

Hi again! OK I've had a little play and you can get a pretty close match my mixing Kislev Flesh and Tau Light Ochre. :)

[@samh62695]

Sorastro's Painting Thank you so much: This is why I love your channel. You will use your own time separate from the videos to help out your viewers.

[@veggiegollum751]

How did you base Jabba? It doesn‘t look like normal spray...

[@veggiegollum751]

Is it like the pre-shade you also used for the Dewback? How do I do it?

[@Sorastro]

Hi! You can see how I painted the base in the video here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/n56pdIOGgauqppY :)

[@veggiegollum751]

Sorry, I meant the priming! That was a bad question...

[@Sorastro]

@@veggiegollum751 Ah OK! I primed in black, followed with some grey then white zenithal highlights sprayed from above :)

[@CRidgway]

Those mould lines are killing me.

[@Sorastro]

Tell me about it! I found Jabba had quite a few that I was reluctant to scrape off for fear of destroying the skin texture.

[@boneyd]

Mate, they're barely noticeable. "killing me", righto. Let's see your work.

[@CRidgway]

boneyd Blimey, just making a bit of fun, no need to take it so personally. to answer your question, I've been working with minis for a while now and mould lines tend to just stick out a bit more.

[@mikemee8002]

tbh, the material they use to make these models. I hate it! I makes getting rid of mould lines that bit more difficult. I have no issue seeing them on his work, as he clearly puts alot of effort into what he does.

[@karstenvonfjellheim5321]

Dem moldlines

[@Sorastro]

+Karsten Von Fjellheim Yep - the bane of my existence :)

[@73APhotography]

Have you thought about monetising your videos?

[@Sorastro]

+The Transport Guide Hi! Yes; I don't mind allowing skippable adds but won't have overlay adds spoiling the videos :)

[@swapmeetlus4096]

Ugh Jabba so damn naaaasty