Start to Finish Skirt Board Cutting Guide: How to Get Professional Results

[@fu2ou81]

I've been a trim carpenter for 20+ years and truly enjoy watching your videos. Learned some nice techniques and different, effective ways to complete a task. Keep up the nice work. You are a true craftsman thats dedicated to the job.

[@ginaramsey611]

You're the only finish carpenter I watch

[@JackKirbyFan]

Everyone says 'who needs math'. Well, you answered the question. Incidentally -> complement for 90 degree angles (40 +50) etc and supplemental angles for 180 degrees (120 + 60) etc. And yes, I always got them confused too because supplemental versus complement are just so similar in meaning. Supplement -> add onto and complement -> to complete. You would think they would have terms that helped you see the differences between the two. Glad you see the value of math!

[@schoolhousemodern]

The video paid for itself with that tip about adding the 3-5 deg on the mitre cut.

[@marcvanherck]

You are really a very good "teacher" I love to see you work Marc from Belgium

[@4n2earth22]

I definitely do it different. I sit in my recliner and watch you do it! 🙃 After 35+ years in the construction industry, including everything from site work to roofing, my old bones are rockin' it a lot slower these days. Fine woodworking is still my favorite activity, production carpentry is in my distant past. You do artful and amazing work!

[@vancen1911]

Just want to thank you for these skirt board segments. I watched this one the one from 2 yrs. ago and the one from 3 yrs. ago. Never did skirt board trim. Worked out great. You the Man.

[@jandoinc]

Loved the video, very instructional and informational. I've been a general carpenter all my life and it does not hurt to learn tricks. You got my respect👍😎

[@whodunit6941]

Spencer thanks for sharing your knowledge for the rest of us to aspire to

[@wirenut003]

Thanks for the direction on the proper cuts and fit, looks good on the stairs. You got some really good Skills, my man.

[@Discovery123.]

Congrats on your new van, now I want to see more trims work.

[@j.m.1524]

Takes a long time to learn to be able to this type of quality work. Well done.

[@pearlllg]

I will never in my lifetime finish a stair case, but this was fasinating. Thank you!

[@timothyjones6476]

Thanks Spencer. Each video I learn something new.

[@michaelbrewer2949]

I just used everything you taught in this video yesterday. The best looking set of stairs I’ve ever built. You are an amazing teacher. I’ve shared your channel with others. Thank you

[@rickcimino743]

Great job. I've said this before but man, on man would I love to work with you for a month. Looking forward to the rest of the series on stairs. Really liked that Dutchman pants jig. Thanks sir.

[@DGALVIN45]

Best finish carpentery in the game 💪💯

[@Artorian44]

Best explanation i’ve ever seen. Thank you.

[@sanyok7777]

I’m speechless everything just perfect

[@tyranasaurusty1180]

Hi Spencer. First time commenting, I have learned alot of great stuff from your videos over the years and am very thankful to you, so hopefully I can return the favor here with an idea for you. I recently did the same detail with the risers overlapping the skirt boards. What I did was run the vertical part of the skirt board about 3/16"ish proud of what would be the stringer in your case (I had shop built rough stairs so there was an OSB riser in my case, but same idea). Then I setup a dado stack and dadoed 3/8" out of the back of the risers to accept the skirt board. Doing it this way had the advantages of faster layout and skirtboard cutting since it saved me the trouble of trying to get my skirtboard cuts dead on, as well as plenty of forward/backward adjustment for the riser to make sure everything lined up and sat plumb without relying too much on the framing. Since the dado in the riser sets the overhang past the outside of the skirt board, I could mindlessly click the risers and skirtboards together like legos without worrying about the overhang. The extra space leftover inside the dado left plenty of space for glue to go. I also think this technique will better accommodate wood movement over the seasons. I think the extra time spent cutting the dados paid dividends, especially since my skirtboards were stain grade like the treads and risers, so I had no leeway for caulking any gaps. Unfortunately I couldnt think of a good way to make the method work for the treads without cutting a much less forgiving and more time consuming stopped dado, so those cuts still need to be close to perfect in the absence of cove or some other trim to cover gaps. I know you are a very busy man (so am I), but I'd love to hear your thoughts. Thanks!

[@InsiderCarpentry]

That's an excellent idea! I think especially for the shop built situation you are describing it works really well. Thanks for chiming in!

[@markb.1259]

If this isn't a republished video from a year or more back... I'm having a serious case of deja vu!!! LOL Either way, I love watching your work!!

[@als1023]

Great video, you covered all the details, and especially how to adjust for framing. In older houses here on the west coast there is rarely a chance to remove the original stringers, and adjusting is necessary. I don't work in new construction. Thanks for all the excellent comments too, great community here !

[@TCM1966]

I really enjoy your teaching technique. I really understand everything you’re saying. I’d be very interested to see you do the mitered risers.

[@michaelbissen1946]

Great job Spencer! I love building stairs

[@annettemroskam7450]

Thanks for the tips! Complement is 90. Supplement is 180 😊

[@hansangb]

Nice way to start a weekend! A new Insider Carpentry video!

[@JayLepisto]

Great tutorial, Spencer! Clean and clear delivery. Brings back a lot of good memories of when I did these projects regularly in new construction. The only thing I do differently as a remodeler is to cut new corrected stringers, sub treads and risers prior to cladding the staircase with the finish materials. Much easier to trace skirts and the solidity of a bomb shelter.

[@ronnieross711]

Dude I’m this close to moving to Indiana and working for you! Tired of struggling, tired of the old guard not teaching me.

[@royalvarez6436]

Spenser we need to start a charter for Tool Junkies-great video as always.

[@oldmanSturzl]

Thanks for the video! Great timing too. I'm in the middle of this exact type of project including the wainscoting. Tomorrow is the wall between the lower flight of stairs and the upper which will have a notched skirt board. Have to mitre for the risers too. I don't have a sliding mitre saw but just picked up a track saw like you've used in other videos. I'm planning on doing mitred rabbit joints to make them stronger. And it should help keep the mitres true and tight. I appreciate all your videos, and that you take the time to put in all the chapter marks so I can go back to specific points. I always pick up something from each one of your videos, thank you.

[@jnmc-vx4fw]

Great job , I’ve never seen risers not mitered on the end’s except some post and beam jobs we do

[@MrNaliux]

In my case i found that it is 100% not correctly. You have no idea what a great help you are to my skills chest. Thanks.

[@zephyr1408]

Here I am making a custom toe Kick? And in comes a new video! Great !

[@straight_to_finish]

That’s a good trick using the width of the stabila level to determine the height above the nosing. I hadn’t finished stairs in a few years (since I mainly do remodels) and couldn’t remember the height so I had to call a friend a few weeks ago. In my experience, stringers shrink and are no longer plumb or level by the time they’re finished. I know this since I framed it, and the stringers were perfect. I ended up shimming each tread and riser plus a few big tubes of PL premium. Also, I used Kreg screws to attach the treads to the stringer for a fastener free installation. The trick is to start from the top and work your way down and install the the riser after each tread as you’re working your way down. By installing the (painted) risers after each tread, you can reach in to shim the tread tight into the rabbet slot of the previous riser. Lastly, I’m up in Maine and the only options for poplar is either solid poplar or primed solid poplar-no finger jointed available. There’s plenty of radiata (primed) pine available however. Great content as always!

[@JonathanExcels]

I have used your stair videos in the past with great (from DIY point of view) success. I am going to need to install some stair posts this year and will start with your video library to learn how to do it. Thank you.

[@markhedquist9597]

Well, I wish I would've seen this video a month ago. I'm currently doing an oak stair case remodel. Replacing carpeted stairs with oak. First time for me. No major screw-ups, but a couple of tips you show here would have helped me immensely. The "Dutch pants" jig being the main one. I marked my skirt boards on the back and cut from the back. Ugh... Also the slight bevel cut I did think about, but was wary of because of cutting from the back side. Lots of offsets to deal with, and in the end just cut square. So, "minor" gappage. Ugh. Next time... My saving grace is the customer is great to work with, and is letting me take as long as I need for the most part. And I need to go slow for my old brain's sake. I really appreciate your channel. Very well explained, no bs. Good stuff here.

[@jimbok2492]

Awesome video. Thanks man. I have found that if you leave those triangles in when you make your jig cut. It's a lot cleaner. Although I use a hand saw

[@jeffkelly2131]

Another masterful performance! I've used a lot of you tips before but I've definitely learned a lot more watching you. I love the attention to detail and also quality!

[@benduea2713]

You are a legend! Well done as always.

[@donwilliams3626]

Masterful tutorial. Your Dutchmans pants jig and your explanation of how to use the 3-5 degree back cut and why so necessary to delivering quality stairs. Of course using PL Premium is a critical step that will never be seen by others.

[@chuckmeister6518]

This video was informative and very detailed. Just like the rest of your videos. Thanks!

[@ravenheart1439]

The bevel cut is a great trick..seen you do that in a few things, I worked on a framing crew for years and really a lot of it is the material they get for stringers and it's been on site through the whole build, able to twist and bend, and the other part is a lot of framers just don't care, get it done and get out mentality...I'm glad i made the move to get out of framing it'll make an old man out of you quick, and i dont like sloppy framers....

[@levipeterson663]

Great video! Thanks so much for passing along the knowledge and techniques you’ve worked hard to attain!

[@T.E.P..]

always outstanding work and explanation. Truly inspirational and these builders are fortunate to have your skills to button up their constructions with your perfection. Cheers and hope the glorious Sun is shining on you and all you love.

[@ericbordeau9080]

I do a similar process but I plumb my jig when marking the skirt board. It eliminates the step of coming back with a level. More efficient. Less steps. Great video

[@jlcfinishcarpentry]

Hey Spencer, a great video again. It is sweet to revisit all the techniques that you had shared in your previous treads and risers and skirt board videos. I’m happy to say that these techniques have become second nature over the last couple of years since I had originally started following thanks again hope all is well.

[@frd3fadi]

Amazing work . Do u think there is much in this world care about all this important details?! No they don’t . Most important to the most is get paid and run away. Thanks for ur honesty

[@ronallen6578]

Goodvideo Spencer!! Your making it look easier than it should be🤔🤔 I've heard that if someone can make his profession look easy, he is probably a good craftsman. I'd say you qualify 😊😊😊

[@adicoley]

very well explained. thanks

[@M30263]

As always, a pleasure to watch and learn! Thank you! 👊👊👍

[@CuDeaDSooN]

That bar is interesting. I usually use a block and a 2x4 to make a fulcrum.

[@StroMedia]

I learned a lot that I will put into practice tomorrow! Thanks for taking the time to make such high quality videos.

[@mattmag3089]

Very sorry about your luck with framers. I am a rough carpenter and take pride in my stairs. I communicate with the superintendent and the trim carpenter to figure out floor coverings and tread material exactly. My stringers are always right on the money.. but sometimes the 2x12 stringer crowns or twists, risers cup and treads can be different thicknesses. At least there is one carpenter out there whose thinking of you guys!

[@aarongreenlee7867]

Make it at least two!

[@bradquist447]

When I started in 1982, we always framed the house, and came back for trim later. No such thing as a framer, or trimmer, just general carpenters. What I learned was that no matter how careful we were framing, the risers always tipped in at the top, and the treads always tip down. Since there is less material at the points than at the heel, the points always shrink more than the heel, and there isn't anything you can do to prevent this. I like the method you used to transfer the marks across, but I've never done anything on open stairs other than miter the skirt to the riser. Having to make the vertical and horizontal fit perfect without cove moulding on the horizontal is complicated to say the least. Using a 12" compound sliding miter saw is a huge improvement over what we used to do. We had to cut those bevels by hand or with a Skilsaw. We used a worm drive for left side skirt bevels , and a regular sidewinder for the right. I worked with a guy who cut skirt bevels on a tablesaw. He would install the blade backwards, flip a cross in the belt so the motor would spin the blade "backward" to get the bevel on the right side skirts. Talk about a scary dangerous way to do that! The tools we have now are so much better!

[@hongmookkim6703]

6

[@CuDeaDSooN]

You and those like you are diamonds in the rough.

[@cjsawinski]

I’m a 20 year carpenter… about half in framing and half in trim/finish. I’ve been a trim foreman for the last 7-8 years and in the last 5 or so been the companies “stair guy”. When I run into a set of stair that the framer new what he was doing and they are dialed in it makes me smile lol. I also don’t blame framer most the time when things are a little off. Most of the time the problem I run into is the framers didn’t know what the finished floor was or the floor got changed (usually from solid hardwood floors to engineered), and when that happens that throws things off a bit. I’m also a “woodworker” with a small shop at home… if I were ever to remodel my own stairs I would do them Dutch style with the floating structural stringer look…

[@RodrigoOliveira-zl8gf]

Thank You so much, I have been learning a lot from you.

[@aaronkuhns6211]

Thank you for sharing your knowledge. I’ve only made skirt boards for decks. And it was extremely difficult the first few times. But I have additional know. Thank you.

[@edcollier6982]

Nice I'm always the guy people call for stairs and rafters I wish someone told me years ago that in general most building returns to 90 60/30 45/45 70/20 and so on

[@stevebengel1346]

Same here, I found out about the angles from reading Gary Katz's trim books

[@gyulabujtor7378]

Amazing work. Thank you great video.

[@BriansBestB4]

Thank you for taking the time to make this excellent video. I appreciate your work

[@flammarama]

Excellent work.

[@mmimnagh]

This was a big help. Thanks man.

[@anthonyalbani2502]

Great work as always. I have done skirtboards and stringers by using a acrylic drafting square. Find it easier for layout to get perfect 90s. Just an idea.

[@Gallo903]

Thank You for sharing your knowledge and experience!!! Priceless…. Blessings to you!!!

[@mattschoular8844]

Nice technique. Thanks Spencer

[@ghosttreewoodworks]

Very informative. Thanks for sharing

[@Braddock54]

Absolute beauty job. Total pro.

[@stefboulas]

Excellent video! Thanks for sharing!

[@64maxpower]

You are an excellent teacher

[@petemercer6377]

Love your videos Very well done Do you have any videos on mounting and securing different types of Newell posts. I used to cut out the sub floor and mounts to floor joist. Would love to see how you install. Also, I'm in Columbus Ohio and would love to come see you at one of your job sites sometime

[@kevinlucas8437]

Great technique !!! I've seem guys just set skirt board in place and trace inside at whatever the framer cut, usually not that accurate definitely not always plumb !! Care and quality !!!

[@2blackdanes]

Great video Spencer!

[@pauldunk2142]

Great work you make it look so easy

[@kenubannister]

Well explained sir! Excellent job!

[@customremodeling1767]

Very nice clean work as always! Keep it up!

[@ronniekuhn2026]

That was an amazing lesson. Thank you

[@BigJohnson1566]

Slick work, always tricky work.

[@dan__________________]

Perfect. I'm going to try this soon.

[@chazTRAINalb]

Great work. Still waiting on the drywall returns on windows 😁

[@InsiderCarpentry]

We will have a video coming out in about 2 weeks on how we shim those.

[@chazTRAINalb]

@@InsiderCarpentry 🙏 😁

[@mikefedor6089]

I'm a trim carpenter, and enjoy your videos. YOU DO A GREAT JOB.I would love to sit and talk with other carpenters and discuss finishing techniques. You do a great job.

[@JoDoDesigns2011]

Always enjoy your videos

[@covecarpentry]

Nice work. Curious if you could have used a framing square with stair gauges to mark the second skirt

[@xavytex]

No. Every step is a bit different.

[@ptas4426]

Great video. Your early stair video taught me and my dad how to do stair installs. All went well. We have an open area of stairs. What would you use to cut the skirt board if you were cutting a 45 bevel to meet the riser? Track saw? Thanks

[@InsiderCarpentry]

Either track saw or miter saw. Usually miter saw.

[@ceeceety2320]

love your work .Best on you tube

[@joblowu]

as always you are the master 👍👍 thanks

[@Stevelemontrudy]

Awesome as always. Looking forward to the next video. You do amazing work and I want to know how to do it. If you ever need an apprentice, I'll be here just waiting for you to ask.

[@ThielTube]

That framing would not pass here in upstate NY, No metal brackets on any of the stringers, bottom end of stringers look like they are only sitting on the landing edge maybe 3/4"? NY you need a minimum of 1 1/2". Also those saw cuts on the knockout parts.. they went way beyond the the mark on every one reducing the overall strength of the stringers. kind of curious.. was this framing inspected before you covered them up? I know every state is different when it comes to codes etc. Great video as always. great job! i always love coming here to your videos.. you are never to old to learn new tips and ways to do things

[@jnmc-vx4fw]

Exactly…..not allowed over cutting stringers in MA, either. And good framers use PSL for stringers not Kd stock. Also we glue a screw a 2x4 to the side of the stringers ..

[@ryanmuth2390]

I thought the same thing. Very sloppy on the framers part :(

[@InsiderCarpentry]

It's a sloppy job. If someone knows the secret to get framers to slow down I'd love to know.

[@4n2earth22]

@@InsiderCarpentry Make them trim their own jobs. But, fairy tails aside, I have not found a reliable way to make any form of production worker give a fig about follow-on trades. It is just baked into the processes that the industry promotes.

[@michaelmaas5544]

@@InsiderCarpentry pay them more

[@dominioncrowntv5197]

Amazing content. Thank you 🙏

[@davidspeakman8336]

Love your work

[@johnwehner1296]

Great video. Wondering if This Old House has tried to recruit you. You would make a great addition to the program

[@henrypeisch5289]

Great content as always. I have rarely seen this method on new construction. Always interesting how methods differ regionally. Shop built stairs were always the norm. I won’t try to sell you on a cnc stair machine. But you make a strong case for shop built with your 10% success rate leaving it to the framers. Sometimes when we have always done it a certain way, you can’t change up. So, just a few observations. I would gift wrap a hand saw (the kind with no plug or battery) for the framer to avoid the over cuts on the stringers. Not a big deal as they didn’t blink during the cut, but notched stringers need all the strength you can give them. But seeing the over cuts makes me want to check any birdsmouth on cut rafters, lol. Another framing issue is that at the top rise, the framing looks like a mistake was fixed. The landing was packed out…possibly to shorten the run. Better to see that center stringer make contact with a continuous ribbon at the top end…instead of the sloppy toenailed blocking and cripple 2X4’s. Pressure blocks (bridging) between stringers would be a slight improvement. Next house. I also want that center stringer at least sistered on both sides if it’s dimensional lumber and not engineered lumber (LVL, PSL, etc.). Tell the framers that you like 12” centers on the stringers and you want them to glue and double anything that is not spiked to wall framing… more of an issue on a full flight but maybe on the next house. Work safety tip…tack the loose stringers. You know they are loose and working alone is safer but you don’t know when someone else is going to flip a 2x12 running down them. Finally, a good reason stairs have cove under the tread is to prevent gaps later. I think I see a little daylight on the video but maybe that is just my perception. The end grain on the risers at the open side…maybe a small chamfer on vertical sides (of the end) would look more planned if it’s not mitered. I would have to think about how any stair cove would meet up with the extended rise but maybe no cove is part of the design. Plowing the bottom of the treads and back of the risers with a rabbet is an option with this design but tedious. I like the look of everything you do and I enjoy the channel.

[@henrypeisch5289]

Also, I think that PL premium is sort of an Rx pill for your OCD as it allows an acceptable fudge factor and you can sleep at night. But don’t rely on it too much.

[@henrypeisch5289]

What might be interesting to some is that packing out the upper landing to shorten the total run may have necessitated the use of an over easing - a hand rail fitting you don’t often see.

[@shauncarl9535]

Great job as always

[@clashandpotatoes]

Great content but I wouldn't expect anything else from you 👍🏽

[@benoitlefebvre9436]

Amazing😍 thank you love it.

[@totagme]

Nice work Spencer! I will be forwarding this video to my crew. Also will you be doing a video on the stair railings?

[@InsiderCarpentry]

Not this time. I wish I would have had time to document the install. But it was a final push and all I could do was get done as fast as possible.

[@totagme]

@@InsiderCarpentry Understandable. Thank you for your time and effort on these videos. It’s much appreciated.

[@Dwitt-fh8gq]

Twenty years ago you would have had your own TV show! 👍🏻

[@robertcharlton1551]

You did a very good job of explaining. I’m glad I’m not building steps . Sounds complicated.

[@ianrose2823]

Great work !

[@jeffreyrewer]

Thanks, Spence!

[@kenannen5383]

Good job. Love your idea's

[@randypowell4799]

Oh Man great video. Thank you.

[@jeffdeluca1153]

Brother you have just alleviated a whole bunch of stress. Why was I thinking the skirt board had to be cut around all those risers and treads? Is it always fit around the framing PRIOR to treads and risers being installed? Thx Jeff