STATIC NOISE IN SPEAKERS?! FIXED!! (06-11/8TH GEN HONDA CIVIC SI)

This is a very long & boring video that consists of me talking to the point I don't even want to hear my own voice anymore, but I figured I'd get this out there to help any of you guys that are having this same issue! I hope I didn't confuse anyone & if you have any questions, don't be afraid to drop em in the comments!!
Hope this Helped you guys out!
Follow my Instagram for more current updates on the builds!
/ daniel_kellert
You can buy this harness from Scosche which comes with RCA's already built in & retains the factory amp & sub. (Works but Scosche messed up the pin locations on the amp harness connector so you will need to re pin it anyways) But I personally recommend using the method shown in this video. Building it yourself is always better right?
Here is the Link
www.amazon.ca/...
Parts used in this video
Scosche Harness Connector - www.amazon.ca/...
Metra Antenna Adapter - www.amazon.ca/...
Metra Dash Kit - www.amazon.ca/...
Set of RCA cables you can cut to fix the buzzing sound - www.amazon.ca/...
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Music promoted by Audio Library • Polaroid - extenz (No ...
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#Honda #Civic #Si

[@DanielKellert]

After years of running a different headunit since I made this video. Here is the link to the BEST all in one headunit kit for your 8th Gen Civic!! idoing2006.com/products/idoing-10-2inch-android-12-radio-head-unit-for-honda-civic8-fk-fn-fd-2005-2012?sca_ref=6654541.rzPnUNlQY141uqZk

[@tifneal5]

This video was a life saver! My husband put in a new head unit into my jeep and it made a white noise sound. I couldn’t stand it. I was very upset. He told me there was nothing we could do about it. So I did my own research and found this video. I rewired the speaker wires to RCA cables and it worked!! No more white noise. Thank you so much!

[@DanielKellert]

Atta Girl! That Jeep must have a factory amp too. God job on the fix :) Glad it helped you out!

[@thesillybilly]

Dude slow the hell down omg.

[@michaelburke7978]

I do not have a Honda Civic, but I had the exact same problem you described, from the static noise occurring when changing stations to my Pioneer head unit being way too loud when the volume level was at 5. I did exactly what you did here, and it completely solved my problem! You sir, are a gentleman and a scholar :)

[@infilTR41T0R]

This helped me with a T'eyes CC3 install on a Honda CRZ. Very similar set up and noise issue, with sound coming through very loud due to stock amp. I used Speaker-to-Phono adapters with visible positive/negative slots as this was the first time I have done anything daring by myself with a car audio system and none of the RCA cables I had at home looked like yours after opening them up. I watched this video a few times and it gave me the confidence to give it a try. I'm glad I did, thank you!

[@beaumont1969]

This video was very helpful, just bought my car recently and it was driving me insane the static noise. Mine was quite loud. Did all the steps for the speaker re wire and viola no more static. Thanks so much! There is still the tinniest bit of static sound, but only when it’s completely silent in the car (which I think is normal)

[@DanielKellert]

Glad it helped :)

[@calvinw6584]

Just want to send a shout out to you for posting this (albeit two years ago). Had this exact same problem during my install today and resolved the issue following your workaround. Cheers!

[@supersport8186]

This video helped me out so much. Ive been on the phone with customer service from the website I bought the radio from and they couldn’t figure it out. Thanks for sharing mate.

[@DanielKellert]

🙌🏼🙌🏼 glad it helped!

[@angeltheboss9951]

Same here this video helped me a lot thanks man

[@1johnriz]

this video was a savior! worked like a charm on my 11 accord with premium sound

[@jesinu]

This is a fantastic video. Thank you for making it! It covers what is going on in "premium audio" Civics like no other. Geat work!

[@ebkbk9902]

Does this bypass the factory amp technically? i wanted to install an after market one but want to bypass my existing factory one

[@clutchtime3126]

You my friend are a hero. Thank you for resolving my headache.

[@apathee_dm]

I cannot thank you enough for this walkthrough

[@madbeat5]

I bought an Atoto S8 gen2 standard and used the RCAs to connect my speakers to the back of the head unit, I don't have any static noise but my audio is too high... I barely play music at 5 and it sound really loud. My rear speaker and sub are apparently blown, I'll replace them and see if there's any difference. Thanks for a nicely detailed video my friend. BTW... I own a 08 civic SI

[@mykov3677]

I might have this question solved when I go try it later, but I'll comment anyway because this video and the last one about the topic is great!!! I have an FD5 (CSX Type-S) so it took me ages to even find the amp wire since the wiring diagram is different to civic haha , but anyways, I ran a parking brake bypass that I found at a wreckers, worked for me, but back then I didn't have the amp wire connected. That being said, I converted the speaker wires to RCA following your method, and when I go put it back in the car, I'd you reset the head unit with Network mode? Or kept it the same?

[@thatnastyshot4275]

Ive got a buzzing noise, only when the key is in the on position. Turning on headlights changes the volume of the buzzing. Any advice? No noise if the key is in the accessory position.

[@user-cg5so3ig8g]

This makes a lot of sense! Trying this and hoping it works.

[@pumpkinpapaya680]

I think this is the problem i am having with my 2011 CRZ , will try your solution this weekend !

[@charles-tw1hi]

Did you solve your problem? I have a pioneer that had a lot of whine in my civic. could not get rid of it in anyway. Just got a crz and put it in and had a hum. I am wondering if my head unit is just bad.

[@chrisgartner7009]

Really nice research! Most people don't do that. Great work, but i think you fixed this because the RCA ports are not amplified whereas the speaker leads are.

[@DanielKellert]

Yes you are correct. That is the point of the fix. I explained that in the video 👍🏼

[@TENER]

@@DanielKellert Mine ended up being too quiet when doing this fix. Cause it wasn't amplified enough.

[@SergioIraheta90]

Did this fix retain the tweeters? I was going to go the amp bypass route but the tweeters and sub would no longer function. Your help would be appreciated.

[@ihate5x112_]

3 years later and this helps me out

[@DanielKellert]

3 years later & I’m still here… I got you 🫡 glad it helped.

[@duncanhoward1179]

I’m about to tackle this in my si, pretty intimidating but these vids help a lot, btw, did you maintain oem steering wheel controls?

[@DanielKellert]

It’s easier than you think! Just follow what I did in the video & it will work 😃No I did not maintain the steering wheel controls, you will need to buy the steering wheel control module to keep the steering wheel controls functional! Glad the video helps 😃

[@duncanhoward1179]

@@DanielKellert another question haha, how come you didn’t have a rca cable for your subwoofer in the rear?

[@DanielKellert]

@@duncanhoward1179 From looking at the wiring diagram I couldn’t find any signal wires to the headunit for the subwoofer. The only input to the subwoofer is directly from the amp to the sub. The sub is directly controlled by your rear speaker signal inputs from the headunit to the amp. Then the amp converts it to a frequency output directly to the sub. Let me know if you find a way to wire them in with RCA’s!

[@duncanhoward1179]

@@DanielKellert okay man, my head unit comes in Friday so I’ll let you know how it goes! Thanks again

[@DanielKellert]

@@arez2569 If you read the description of the video I linked that harness & explained the pin locations are incorrect on it! 👍🏼

[@humblepasta1543]

FINALLY a solution, thank you so much dude

[@letitgrowdad5268]

I cut the wires at the actual subwoofer inside the trunk wired them to RCA’s and they went to my aftermarket amp and sub

[@mikellewis2346]

Do you know were the amp is locked ??? I have 07 civic si coupe with premium navigation stereo system. I wanna run a separate subwoofer with amplifier that will still be adjustable on the factory head unit.

[@nichitakukuskin389]

Quick question: what if my radio has no RCAs inputs at all? My radio came with a Right Auxiliary Input and Left Auxiliary Input. They look like rca connectors but there are only 2 of them. Any possibility to add rca inputs in an aftermarket radio? Thanks in advance!

[@Shiznuggetz102]

Did you figure this out? have the same problem

[@AyooxMaRk]

So i got a question because i have no experience at stuff like this. I actually got a android head unit for my 8th gen and cruuently having this issue of static and loudness. But enough babbling. My head unit dont have that kind of option. It has "aux in L, aux in R, audio out L, audio out R" should i try turning my speaker wires into rcas and plugging into "aux in"? I dont want to try it unless i know itll work or have an experienced persons opinion on it

[@dankmasterflex]

Just got done wiring it this way after I wired it to the to the speaker harnesss but now i just realized now on my head unit, I only have 2 audio ports one left and right and the other four are yellow and are video ports. Is there any way a rca splitter will recognize the Rear right and left cables or do I need a new head unit with more ports? Thanks.

[@dankmasterflex]

Update: I just bought a rca y splitter cable from my local store and then put the left front and left rear rca into the y adapter which splits that into one rca cable which I plugged into the left out and did the same for the right out audio input and everything seems to be working good and I now have power to all speakers, still get a slight static but it’s only noticeable when no music is playing not sure if it’s from the adapter but it’s a lot more quieter then how it was when I wired it without RCAs

[@marcorodriguez7675]

I have a 08 Honda Civic LX I added a amp too , ran the RCA to the back of the radio to the amp , ran the speakers from the harness of the car to the amp and it’s making that static noise , but I don’t get how to do it your way , can you explain more

[@natesambo9759]

My problem on a 2009 Accord isn’t so much static but popping on the front alpine component speakers and like you said it’s really really loud, like at 4-5 volume. This makes sense to bypass the amp by using the RCAs. Still trying to figure it out.

[@landondavid5773]

Are you running your remote turn on wire through a relay? Sometimes with multiple amplifiers and not using relay there will be a timing difference between head unit power on and amp power on. That causes the pop.

[@natesambo9759]

turns out the car stock amp was blown, i bypassed that and ran all the speaker wires direct and it sounds great now. Thanks for replying!@@landondavid5773

[@KingsWeldingandAutomotive]

Bro thanks so much. There's not enough info for folks with the premium audio system. This helps a ton. Where did you get the wiring diagram?

[@onesikm3]

Brother I’m over here hoping you could tell me this could solve the faint on sound coming from my newly installed speakers however what about when I’ve disconnected the pioneer head unit from its back harness and when I just turn my ignition key to the on position the speakers output that faint sound again ? Like my pioneer harness is still connected to my metra adapter all the greens purples and whites ect are connected still I just was thinking I could rule out the issue related to the amplified double signal just by unplugging the head unit entirely?

[@Gilbilly06]

Bro, where do you get the wiring schematic ?

[@TheFernando9431]

I can’t thank you enough, it was really helpful

[@jeweledrada6258]

i have the exact same issue with Sony Xav-ax5000 installed on my 08 si. will try to fix it today with RCA cable. Thank you!

[@DanielKellert]

Let me know how it goes!

[@jeweledrada6258]

@@DanielKellert fixed the issue of the volume being to loud! but now im getting this little buzzing sound (2.5/10)noise comin out my speaker even when i put the volume all the way down its still there. but when i put/turn the key to 1st position to where i can still use my stereo and play music the buzzing noise is gone, but as soon as i turn the key on 2nd position the little noise will come out again. same when i start the engine, but the noise level doesn’t change even when im revving or putting the volume all the way up. totally confused rn

[@wyrvern]

@@jeweledrada6258 did you find a fix for this? I’m having this issue too.

[@nathansewell6252]

My Acura had the same problem going to try this

[@lukehaar9380]

so one side of my door speakers sound great and the other side still works and but it’s much quieter how do i fix and it’s an 09 SI coupe

[@mariavaladez7981]

Hi Daniel Dany thats exactly the problem I. Have... But My aftermarket stereo only have. 2 Rc. Conecters....how do I do it?? 2 &2?

[@elishathompson9333]

Hello I have an AWESAFE android radio for my FA5 and it does not have RCA connections on the stereo itself. Would splicing the male and female RCA cables on each speaker wire help or just be a waste of time?? Pls help

[@jayblizzy309]

Have this issues but mines comes from I believe going thru a fire hydrant water might have damaged something so now for the last yr I can only hear music for 3-5mins b4 the loud static noise kicks in. Honda wants to charge me 1500 that’s how much it cost to replace part

[@jesuscastro2805]

My connections say left right output/input is output postive and input negative ?

[@straightgym8764]

I have same problem but only when using bluetooth... i changed oem unit for pioneer dmh-g220bt and thats where it started (my old unit didnt have bluetooth) now i added amp and noise is louder... what could it be

[@gallardo20000]

it fixed the HISS static but for some reason i’m getting a loud poping/crackling sound when the doors auto lock as i’m driving, or every time i turn the switch on the ignition from I to II to start the car... i really wish I could figure it out.. maybe it’s because I installed RCA outputs directly on the harness wiring rather than splitting each cable and using a real RCA cable like you did???

[@DanielKellert]

Not really sure what you mean by you installed RCA outputs directly on the harness wiring? If you do exactly what I did in this video, you should not have any issues.

[@jessetantog15]

So what about the factory subwoofer that came with the Premium Sound package? Shouldn't there be designated RCA jacks for that as well?

[@DanielKellert]

The factory sub runs off the rear speaker input, then the amp sends an output to the sub. So no there isn’t a designated port at the headunit, but there is designated ouput wires for the sub coming out of the amp.

[@4lej722]

Will this be compatible with an aftermarket Amp + speaker system?

[@DarkLight4131]

hey could you explain a bit more of how you created the on-off ebrake switch? on my alpine's e-brake wire, do I just connect it to one end of my rocker switch, and then connect the harness's ground wire to the other end? It was a bit confusing how you explained it in the video cause you have the green e-brake wire coming off both ends of the switch. Thanks!

[@DanielKellert]

Literally cut the wire in half, install a switch in the middle of the wire & ground the other end to the black ground wire in the harness (or a chassis ground). But as I explained in the video. That black wire is chassis grounded so you are perfectly fine to ground you’re e brake wire to the black wire & run a switch in series of that connection.

[@DarkLight4131]

@@DanielKellert for the second half of the e brake wire that goes to the ground on my harness, do i just splice it in with the black harness wire and then just connect the two to the head units black ground wire?

[@DanielKellert]

@@DarkLight4131 Yes that will work

[@45kingofkings]

I do have a slight white noise when you concentrate on it but not even to bother me. My problem is that when I try to raise the volume close to max it sounds distorted and it stops and plays so on and so on. It might be the treble or the bass. I play a song that doesn't have a lot of that but still manages to do it. It's annoying I like to have my music loud without interruptions

[@45kingofkings]

kzbin.info/www/bejne/jqHCgp5ojZeqmMU This is exactly what I'm getting. I have upgraded the speakers except the two front tweeters

[@lgskiller]

I got my head unit installed by Best Buy auto. They used the metra harness but they also used a PAC - LocPRO 4-Channel Line Output Converter which in theory is supposed to fix this. But I still get static as well. Anyone have any suggestions?

[@eljersito1098]

Hi, I have the noise issue when I change the source to AUX. Any tips ?

[@ashezplayboy]

Do I ground speaker rca's Or the input rca's

[@DarkLight4131]

Hey, with the RCA cables you linked, I only need to buy 1 pair right? I see that you have 4 total male ends in the video, which means buying a pair of male-male means I can just cut them in half and use them to fix the issue.

[@DanielKellert]

You got it! Just one set! Gotta cut em anyways 👍🏼

[@DarkLight4131]

@@DanielKellert Thanks! Does it matter which color (red/white) RCA end I connect the speaker wires to?

[@DanielKellert]

@@DarkLight4131 Colour doesn’t matter on the RCA’s, as long as you’re tapping in to the right colour speaker wire on the headunit harness. No problem! 🙌🏼

[@nathanle9098]

I just bought a set of RCA cable and after striping it off there are two wires green and red. Which one is positive and negative?

[@nathanle9098]

I try doing it myself but the RCA cables in the links is different from the video. Doesn't have the coil of wire wrap around the other wire at all, just two color wires. red and green or green and white

[@OnlyDaanish]

Do you think this will work for my 06 TL? I only have a Left and Right for all the speakers. The buzzing is awful. Im wondering if cutting the wires affects the ability to change volume?

[@Carol-yu7kv]

What was your solution

[@darkdestroyer1598]

Would RFI Ferrite Clip on Beads work without using RCAs on each speaker wire? Seeing the RCAs are used as a means to shield the wires I’m just curious if clip on RFI beads would in theory work seeing they are also used in minimizing or filtering out noise

[@DanielKellert]

Honestly not sure! If you try it out let me know! 👍🏼

[@erdjanmyumyunov6046]

will this work for the 10th generation Civic with premium audio? I have a buzzing sound that is only lost when I turn off the stock amplifier, but then there is absolutely no sound! in a forum for Civic I read that this happens because the Android radio has a built-in amplifier and the car also gets preamp signal. I do not know how to deal with the problem, give me advice and help me, please!

[@DanielKellert]

Yes it should work, not sure if the wiring is the same in a 10th Gen, but this method is the same concept regardless.

[@talk2chandran]

Anyone reached Honda on this issue and I tried they are not agreeing. So terrible!! Anyone help on this in Dallas

[@aquaman0167]

Unrelated question but what causes the Civic speakers to die? Both the rears on my 2010 coupe just stopped working. Tested with known good speaker so it’s definitely the speakers. Thanks

[@DanielKellert]

Could be anything honestly, I can’t say for sure! But sounds like you need some new speakers 😅 lol

[@thinshadow551]

Sometimes it's just the age and use of the speakers that burns the voice coil. It could also be because it gets parked where the sun hits them directly for a long time and eventually the voice coil opens (breaks)

[@GottaGetemouttaHere]

What if im using a output line converter ? Will it still work ?

[@DanielKellert]

Give it a try & let me know what happens!

[@adrianescobedo9498]

How would you wire aftermarket speakers with aftermarket amp

[@DanielKellert]

I’d have to make a separate video on that 😅

[@nightmares2night77]

I think this will fix my issue.

[@lordkhxn7633]

I tried this on my 2007 Honda odyssey and I'm still getting a little static sound. Any suggestions?

[@DanielKellert]

I’m not 100% sure what audio system is in the odyssey, or if it’s even setup remotely close to the civic audio system.

[@darnellbranch5705]

Thanks!

[@justinflores1386]

Thanks for the detailed explanation! Gonna give this a try today. Do you happen to have a link to the wire diagram? Can’t find it anywhere

[@DanielKellert]

Unfortunately I don’t have a link. I got the diagram off a program called ALLDATA I have access to at my shop. Appreciate the comment & good luck with the install! 🤙🏼

[@justinflores1386]

@@DanielKellert No worries man. thanks for the reply. Been at it for a couple days and still running into issues. Everything is wired correctly but I’m not getting sound to my rear speakers when all rcas are plugged into the correct leads on the head unit. Only way I could is if I plug in my front rcas to the rear leads on the head unit but then I wouldn’t get sound in my front even if I connect the rear speaker rcas to the front leads on the head unit. The only way I could get sound from all speakers is if I connect the rear speaker wires back to signal wires but would have to deal with static/buzzing and loud volume at low level from the rear all over again. Is there something I’m possibly doing wrong?

[@DanielKellert]

@@justinflores1386 That doesn’t make much sense that you would hook the front RCA’s up to the rear outputs on the headunit then get sound at your rear speakers. All that should happen when you do that is the sound will still play out of the front speakers but then when you go to adjust each individual speaker level, you would need to increase the “rear speaker” output & it would make your front speakers louder because you have the front speaker RCA’s hooked up to the rear speaker outputs so the headunit would just display it as you’re turning up the rear. The headunit isn’t going to know what you have plugged into it, all it does is regulate how much power it wants to output to each RCA port based on the commands you give it. If that makes sense

[@DanielKellert]

@@justinflores1386 It sounds to me like you possibly have an issue with how you wired those rear RCA’s in. Double check & make sure the outer ground is not shorting to the power wire in the middle of the RCA. If it shorts together the amp is going to freak out & cut power to those rear speakers completely.

[@justinflores1386]

@@DanielKellert I see what you mean. Yesterday was a confusing day for me so I might’ve messed up something and made up a logic based off that fuck up haha! I could’ve sworn that I was able to get sound out of both rear speakers by putting front RCA’s to rear outputs. I controlled by shifting the balance in the front but would get feedback from the rear. I went and tried it again just now and it was giving me sound in the right rear but not the left rear. I checked my wiring several times and even rewired it several times. I don’t doubt I’m doing something wrong though. I’m horrible at electrical stuff. I’m using old RCA’s so that my be the issue as well. I ended up ordering the Scosche HA13B. It’s coming in tomorrow so hopefully that eliminates this mess. Thanks for your input man!

[@Iornman_07]

How do you change the background picture on the stereo?

[@DanielKellert]

Download an image on a USB & then transfer it to the headunit!

[@johnkrstyen7351]

Could i get away with out doing the RCA's by getting a Amp bypass harness?

[@DanielKellert]

Yes, but then you are not using the power of the factory amp to power your speakers. You would be using the headunit power output to the speakers. The whole reason behind this video was to retain the use of the factory amp.

[@johnkrstyen7351]

@Daniel Kellert my head unit has a built in amp. After crimping the harness together realised I was given the wrong harness.

[@marcosvega3464]

bro would this work with an after marker amplifier and bypass harness?

[@marcosvega3464]

jl audio hd900/5 4 channels and one sub channel?

[@DanielKellert]

You don’t need to do this if you’re running an amp bypass with an aftermarket amp to power the speakers. Speakers will only buzz if you retain the factory amp.

[@rjmercado2746]

Using the RCA, i only have one white and one red and 4 yellow at the back of my Aftermarket unit. What will I do?

[@DanielKellert]

You should have rca ports that say front, rear & subwoofer on them (2 for each). Or if there is only 2 pre outs it will have 2 ports for front & 2 ports for rear.

[@rjmercado2746]

i have a generic aftermarket unit. It has only 6 RCA ports. One white, One red and 4 yellow. Ill try using 2 Y cable RCA. Cut off the 2 females connect it to the front speakers and the same for the rear speakers. i hope it would work. Thanks

[@rjmercado2746]

I used the Y cable but Unfortunately the static is still there and a little bit worst. I bought the rca from dollar store and when i splice it, the wires(negative and positive are so thin) Do you think having a good quality RCA would make a difference? Thanks!

[@DanielKellert]

@@rjmercado2746 Having a thicker negative shield wire in a good quality rca cable will probably keep the static down.

[@rjmercado2746]

Ill try that. Thanks again.

[@rockit3056]

Good looks

[@kurtcanlapan5068]

Does changing the speakers fix this problem? Cuz i’m planning on changing the speaker system in the near future anyways

[@kurtcanlapan5068]

Also I only have 1 L.Out and 1 R.Out port what should I do?

[@DanielKellert]

Changing the speakers won’t fix the buzzing sound if you still are running the factory amp. You will need to put in the RCA’s to get rid of the buzzing!

[@kurtcanlapan5068]

@@DanielKellert so changing the amp could fix it?

[@ManuelGarcia-vc2sj]

Can I install an after market amp for an aftermarket sub and leave the factory stuff alone?

[@jeremybreeden4228]

With a line out convertor you can, that is if you're meaning you wanna leave the factory radio as well.

[@DanielKellert]

Yes you can. The subwoofer wiring would be completely separate from the factory system with its own amp. So you would run a power wire directly from the battery to the amp (with the appropriate sized in line fuse), RCA’s from the subwoofer pre out on the back of the headunit to the amp, speaker wire directly from the amp to the sub, a good ground cable from the amp to a chassis ground & depending on your setup, a bass controller wire & a remote turn on wire. You do not need to tie into the factory wiring whatsoever to install an aftermarket sub & amp.

[@DanielKellert]

@@jeremybreeden4228 Correct 👍🏼

[@jeremybreeden4228]

@@DanielKellert Aside from tying into either the speaker wires coming directly off the factory head unit, which is my preferred method if installing a line out convertor, or tie into the rear speakers. From my experience using a line out converter doesn't give you nowhere near the bass an aftermarket headunit does though. Maybe if I would have tried a higher grade LOC, I would have had better luck but I wanted more controls anyway so installed a jensen vx7020. Have a great night!

[@darkslayerjl]

I've been having trouble lately with my after market sound system with it buzzing and whining when the car is on. I tried changing the ground location, tried new rca cables, ive tried rewire the speakers and nothing seems to work. I have a 4 channel amp that I'm running to my door speakers and a 2 channel amp for my sub's. I have all my wires separated and not touching but it continues to whine and buzz. Any other solutions to fix this problem?

[@DanielKellert]

So you have the factory amp completely out of the equation then? I’m assuming you’re just running RCA’s directly from the headunit to the amp, then speaker wire from the amp directly to each individual speaker on its own channel. If that is the case you should not get any static unless you have a bad set of RCA’s or an internal issue with the amp. If you tied into any of the factory wiring however, there is always a possibility. Unfortunately I would need to see how you have it wired up to help any more than that :( hopefully that helps a bit!

[@darkslayerjl]

@@DanielKellert I still have the factory amp installed as I don't know where its located in my Acura TSX. And im connected through the wiring harness to my door speakers. Should I just run them separately to each door speaker instead of the wiring harness? I bought some ground loop isolaters but havent tried them out yet to see if that'll help or solve the problem

[@DanielKellert]

@@darkslayerjl Okay you could possibly be tapped into the factory harness on the input side of the factory amp. Just like I was in this video, sending an amplified signal to the factory amp & causing the static. If you’re running an aftermarket amp you need to either run separate wires directly to each speaker, or tap into the factory harness on the output side of the factory amp. I can’t say 100% for sure that is your issue, but it sounds like it will point you in the right direction, or will possibly fix it.

[@darkslayerjl]

@@DanielKellert I'm not sure if I had the wirrs connected to the input or output of the wire harness. All I know is its a after market head unit and I have a metra wiring harness that I used to connect to it. If you have a snapchat, facebook or Instagram so I could show you how I have it set up.

[@Hadesccc]

@@darkslayerjl hey bro did you ever figure it out? Dealing with the same issue

[@phatkid2330]

Break bypass unit you can buy for cheap

[@lexpen9016]

you could've just disconnected the ground for amp, and the signal would've passed through unamplified

[@vinipess]

Jesus, no! You need a converter for that! It’s not a direct RCA plug connection! The head unit sends higher voltage through the colored (bare) wires (amplified) and very low voltage through the RCAs (pre amp musical signal only). Hope it will not burn the RCA input of your amplifier.

[@DanielKellert]

That’s the whole point. The factory head unit in these cars sends a low voltage signal to the factory amp. When you install an aftermarket headunit & use the regular coloured wires, you are sending high voltage signal to the amp which causes the buzzing/static noise & will cause your amp to pre maturely fail. Using the RCA ports mitigates this because of exactly what you just said. The factory amp does not have RCA inputs. It has signal inputs & power outputs with regular 14-16 gauge insulated wire. That is why this fix works. If you are running an aftermarket amp, yes you need to run proper RCA cables. You are correct in everything you’re saying, but I don’t think you understand the factory inputs & outputs in the premium audio systems of these cars.

[@jeremybreeden4228]

Could you still run a amp for a sub with this setup

[@DanielKellert]

Yup! Just run RCA’s for the front & rear speakers how I did in the video. Then run a full set of RCA’s off the subwoofer pre out on the headunit to the amp you’re using for the subs!

[@jeremybreeden4228]

@@DanielKellert dang, thanks for the super fast response. This is what I was thinking but I just wanted to make sure. I think the factory amp puts out plenty of power for the vocal speakers, so that's why I wanna use this method so I don't have to run new wires from a amp to all speakers. Just have a separate amp for a sub. Thank you for the video man.

[@DanielKellert]

@@jeremybreeden4228 That’s exactly what I would do if I ran subs! Thanks bud!

[@calvin8243]

does cruise control work

[@DanielKellert]

Yes this should not affect your cruise control at all. It’s nowhere near the same circuit. I do not have steering wheel controls for the headunit anymore though. (I never use them & the module was like 50 bucks 🥴)

[@Jay482]

Why didn’t you just simply cut the baby blue amp wire from the factory harness or disconnect the cable from the amp, wouldn’t that solve the problem? You made it seem complicated than what it is

[@DanielKellert]

Then you would have no audio? If you disconnect the amp power wire your amp would not work. All of the speakers with the factory wiring receive their power from the amp. The headunit just sends the signal to the amp. So if you just wanted to run the speakers strictly off the headunit power, you could bypass the amp & wire each speaker individually or by using a bypass harness. That’s up to you, but then you’re no longer using the power of the factory amp. The method I showed in this video retains the use of the factory amp.

[@Jay482]

@@DanielKellert okay makes sense. I assume you was using an aftermarket amplifier. I’m use to doing it the traditional way, headunit, aftermarket 4 channel amp, mono amp for subs and running new speaker wires all around to get the best possible sound. But nothing wrong doing it this way to retain the factory setup.

[@DanielKellert]

@@Jay482 If I was putting subs in & upgrading speakers in the car. 100% yes I would scrap the factory amp, get a 4 channel amp, run speaker wire from the amp to each speaker & run RCA’s from the headunit to the amp. Then get a mono amp for the sub to run it individually, again with its own set of RCA’s from the headunit then speaker wire from the amp to the sub. The point of this video was to help people who just put a headunit in their civic with the premium audio system & now they are getting static in the speakers due to the factory wiring with the factory amp. Not how to wire in new speakers & a new amp & subs 😅.

[@Yestopeace365]

Now I have an idea what's wrong.

[@PeterKiryluk]

first of that was the best quality of the car, its like taking a folded dollar bill and shitting on it.

[@phatkid2330]

The sub is running off the rear speaker wire signal

[@phatkid2330]

The only way is running a separate amp to it subs that is the only way

[@DanielKellert]

Yes you are correct 👍🏼👍🏼

[@slitherman7883]

why does it got to be so hard to change the factory head unit in these cars

[@jdc2126]

Lol Star Wars ?

[@BrimDaRuler]

Bad example not showing how it sounds before, we gotta go by ya words 🤦🏻‍♂️

[@jdc2126]

Jesus Christ too much taking

[@JGR..]

Would this also fix the alternator whine im getting? I just installed a new head unit amd can’t figure out how to fix it?

[@DanielKellert]

If your issue is what you’re describing it as, then no

[@getknif3d454]

Alternator has nothing to do with the music system. So get that checked out before working with music in your car. Don’t want anything blown

[@joshymcdaniel9233]

@@getknif3d454 did u run any rca cables next to a power cable like to a sub? If u didn’t know always run rca on desperate side of car from power wire’ Also maybe try a ground loop isolator? Also if u have any rca cables plugged into the back of the aftermarket head unit grab some Tessa tape and cover the metal around the rca plugged together like cover the connection it could be touching metal n dash picking up sound’ Also no offense but if it’s a cheap head unit from eBay/ amazon u do get what u pay for lol go with a name brand those cheap no name ones can for sure cause speaker whine If u do have a sub make sure gain on amp is turned down ppl crank it up and that causes whine Sorry if u know this already just trying to give u some advice’ These new cars are killing aftermarket stuff making u not be able to change heady it’s from oem like mazda cars features all built into radio/ cmu I hate it’ Then they set the fronts/ rears so different rears barley play sound grrrr