Step-by-step Guide To Replacing The Magnetic Cam Adjusters On A Mercedes Ml350 With M272 Engine.

[@HowtoAutomotive]

Links for parts and tools are in the description.

[@HowtoAutomotive]

Thank you!

[@olaomishore]

Hello, I replaced the four cam adjuster on my s550. Then three codes started showing . P0016, P0018 and p0019. Please what can be wrong? Thanks

[@area8053]

@@HowtoAutomotive so the bottom is the exhaust ones?

[@area8053]

@@HowtoAutomotive so two top ones are intake ?

[@scottmorningstar5229]

The Mercedes part number for the camshaft position sensor o ring for a W211 3.5L engine is 023-997-12-45

[@louisabel1182]

Been watching youtube car repair videos for years. Yours are the absolute best

[@HowtoAutomotive]

Louis Abel thank you!

[@dalea1545]

Thank you Brian and HTA for this great video series. My car, 2007 CLK350 (175k miles) began idling rough and burning some oil. I was overdue for a service after the pandemic so I brought it into an indie shop. New to me, but they are very well known. They found faults for tumble flap stuck, etc.. and cam adjuster issues. Their quote to do the intake manifold was $1.550 and the cam adjuster magnets and sensors was $1,824. I figured if I was doing the intake manifold, i might as well do the cam adjusters. And a bonus, I also did the spark plugs as well. The quote to do all 3 of these was over $3,500, but I did it all myself for less than $800, all OEM parts. On the cam adjusters, I didn't have to remove the oil cooler or power steering reservoir. One issue I found on my car were brittle electrical connections from the wiring harness. I took as much care as I could, but about 3 of the locking tabs broke on me. If they come loose, I guess I will have to glue? Or maybe some kind of heat shrink jacket. Anyway, thanks again. I'm glad I did this myself and saved the money. One question, does the computer clear all the fault codes itself, or does this have to be done with a code reader?💲

[@maxwellbishop7214]

Wow 🔥 respect. Code reader though

[@wfoholeshot8614]

Use thin zip ties to secure connector's in place. Autozone can erase codes for free.

[@oz2147]

Yes I broke two locking tabs on 1 bank today!

[@dalcanta]

How did you manage not removing the redervoir ?

[@helmhurst]

Great vids man. You showed us how to use the tools in awkward places. Cheers.

[@AlGolzari]

You know I’m really sorry I don’t mean any disrespect, and I didn’t give you a thumbs down, but I really have to disagree with you here. I have the same exact engine and you do NOT need to remove the power steering reservoir to replace the magnets on the driver’s side. I did all 4 of my magnets this past weekend and you’re right, the driver’s side is more tricky due to clearance but all you need to do is use a box wrench for the e8 bolts that don’t have clearance for a traditional ratchet. You can either use a e8 box wrench with an open and closed end OR just use a 1/4 inch SAE box wrench and that will work fine and you won’t strip or round out the bolt heads. You can also use the same procedure for the intake cam on the driver’s side...no need to remove the oil cooler either. It’s going to be a little tight with the box wrench but it is totally do-able. I don’t advise removing the power steering reservoir when you don’t need to. What I also did for slightly more clearance is I removed the power steering reservoir cap and covered it temporarily with Saran Wrap so I wouldn’t get dirt in it. But that’s it. And you should clean all around the magnets before you remove them so you don’t get any loose dirt into the engine head when your remove the old magnets. Lastly, in the beginning of your video you called the first half of the engine cover the air cover box. That’s NOT the air cover box. The first half is simply a cover and yes, it just pulls up. But the air cover box is the second half of the engine cover closer to the firewall and while that also pulls up, it doesn’t simply pull up. There’s also a clip by the firewall you need to unhook. But you don’t need to remove the air cover “half” anyway. You just need to remove the first half - but again, that’s not the air cover. The air filters live in the other half.

[@marianob1975]

Al, thank you for your comment. I fully agree with you regarding power steering reservoir. Your comment helps me alot before doing this job.

[@AlGolzari]

@@marianob1975 No problem Mariano! I just share what I've learned over time. Btw, in case you ever (unfortunately) have that dreaded electronic steering lock (ESL) problem that is common on all W204's and W205's, I have a "semi-technical" video on my channel where I share a few things that all the other videos don't necessarily tell you. Cheers!

[@marianob1975]

@@AlGolzari Thank you for this information! I hope not having problem with ESL. I subscribed your channel!

[@AlGolzari]

@@marianob1975 Thanks! Appreciate it!

[@ccodella1188]

Mine would not come out with the reservoir in place and tight. Sprinter van. So I think it depends on the vehicle this engine is in. I wish I had just removed the reservoir initially, would have saved me a lot of time and aggravation.

[@ShaneKnapp81]

Great video! I would like to add in the beginning you have the sides of the engine swapped. the left side is the driver side the right side is the passenger side for any of those who are getting fault codes only on one side.

[@iTsTHumpa]

Bank 1: Passenger Side, Cylinders 1,2,3,4 Bank 2: Driver Side, Cylinders 5,6,7,8

[@laurelbaltazar5562]

Is this a lot left hand driver or right hand driver

[@wfoholeshot8614]

FYI,you can remove sensor's on driver side without disconnecting "c" clip from p/s reservoir, just loosen 3 bolts and slightly move aside. Slow going, but less messy..

[@ceberoonline]

finally after many hours of researching i found you. this is very informative and detailed. I like how you almost read my mind on what i wanted to know and covered everything. very impressed and educated. thank you. subbed!

[@markphillipsart]

Man I got burnt on one of these two days ago. I was getting P0018, P0019 codes and another odd code that I can't think of. A previous shop had already replaced the cam sensor. After spending a couple of hours working on and research the problem the problem went away and the car ran fine.

[@cesarbojorquez7418]

Great vid thanks. If you do a valve cover gasket replacement for a m276 please do a video. I found some oil in one of my spark plugs

[@classicjalopy]

I found this quite useful. You don't need to remove the PS reservoir if you have the E8 torx spanner.

[@DooDicky]

I have to on my w164 ml350. Not enough space to take the magnet out

[@chroobyc]

Good video, thanks. I need to replace the o-rings because I have oil leakage here, but no issues with camshaft timing or slth. So iI would just replace the o rings and keep the old(still working sensors). Any reason to change the magnetic sensors as well?

[@scottmorningstar5229]

The Mercedes part number for the camshaft position sensor o ring for a W211 3.5L engine is 023-997-12-45

[@crj495671]

great learning video . is these apply to 2015 ml350 I'm looking forward to replace the camshaft sensor.

[@AndyNav1]

Great video as usual. Just wondered why you removed the return hose in the end? Any particular reason?

[@TRUEGamer-jc8ov]

I’m getting a code p0016 and p2006 What do you guys think its? Idk what to do

[@mljm9209]

Which obd codes shows when these cams adjusters need to be changed ? Merci beaucoup 😊

[@worldfitnesstrainerradekve9234]

I just did that today without removing the reservoir but it was tough work to unscrew the bottom screw and move the reservoir just enough to slip out the magnet 😅

[@lawboy777]

That intake manifold looked very clean and new - did you replace that as well?

[@HowtoAutomotive]

Yes it had broken intake runners.

[@shark70007000]

I was just taking stuff off to change the vacuum linkage on the front of the i take manifold. The first magnet adjuster I pulled the wire connector from shows oil leakage. So that means I need to replace it, right? It does have the recall repair where it extends down and then up to prevent the oil from going up the wires, but I notice the plastic runner for the wires is oily. So I think it is still making its way up there.

[@casey17w]

Nice work on the vid. Quick question. Do i need to worry about air in the ps res if i suck it all out?

[@Dillonyowell]

Very easy job, didn't have to remove the power steering reservoir, just need to remove a sensor and the reservoir cap to squeeze the magnets in.

[@biggjock9087]

My 06 mercedes benz is showing p0016 p0017 codes and i herd about the balancer shaft could there be anything else that will trip those codes?

[@area8053]

@John C I have a p0022 code is this what I have to do?

[@nutz4gunz457]

What is the point of the c-clip? It seems like it’s just there to be a pain. I would think the reservoir bolts would be more than enough to keep it in place.

[@davidb.cutter4631]

Excellent tutorial. Thank you so much.

[@ccodella1188]

Some of you are saying you don't have to remove the power steering reservoir, that must depend on the vehicle. For me, on a Mercedes Sprinter, I had to loosen it quite a bit to get the magnet behind it out. The magnet itself did not have clearance to come out with the reservoir fully in place. In retrospect I wish I had just bought the new seal and followed this video because it was extremely difficult to remove the magnet behind the reservoir and almost as difficult to replace the washer on the sensor to the left. My Sprinter has a slightly different oil cooler and that contributes to the clearance on getting a combination wrench in there, but the magnet is too thick to come out from behind the reservoir. 2007 Sprinter. We will see if the reservoir will leak, but I had no choice as I had already taken the screws out and one dropped on top of the reservoir (i saw a little leaking on the hose coming off the reservoir before starting this anyway..). Changing all camshaft adjuster magnets and the orings on the camshaft position sensors took care of my code issues.

[@rp1268]

Hi. I replaced the magnet with new OEM ones as a preventative maintenance and it is now leaking. It wasn’t leaking before. I took them out and inspected them and everything looks fine. The rings are the same and positioned correctly. Any clue what I could try now? I was thinking of buying a gasket making kit and using that to create a seal. Thanks

[@benjaminmercy1071]

Would the cam adjusters in this vid be located on the same place for a 2006 Mercedes SLK 350????

[@jonathanfournier4084]

Very good video and ps reservoir clip explained clearly with picture. Thanks 😊

[@bishopofrustyiron3101]

Was 100% as you said and was easy as pie!

[@Dillonyowell]

Great video and about to change mine soon but I bought a 8mm wrench but it’s to big? I have an 2009 e350, could it be a different size cause I tried a 7mm at O’rileys but that was to big as well, could it be a 6mm? Any tips would be great. Thanks.

[@tudorbit438]

The bolts are E8, not just an 8mm wrench.... you need an E8 wrench which is harder to find.. your motor is M272.

[@emaksout]

Use a 1/4 wrench instead

[@rollamichael]

Great videos! I've watched about 10 so far 🤣. Any advice for 2008 ml 350? Symptoms are occasional cold startup issues; engine light, rough engine (sounds like an old diesel). Usually cycling off/on resets whatever is causing the issue and runs fine until next random bad cold start. Most recent incident, engine light would not go out even after several cycles and engine calmed down, towed to Mercedes, once there, no engine light, engine runs fine. They did some more diag and are saying "Left intake cam control valve is binding". I don't have any codes and don't have a reader, haven't yet called back into Mercedes to get more detail. After binging on youtube, including your channel cam adjustor solenoid (what you show here) cam position sensor timing chain tensioner? symptoms of the evil balance shaft blowing itself up? cold start lock poin failure in cam shaft adjuster / phasor ? random electrical issues? I've yet to find a single video that zeros in on a thing called adjustor solenoid control valve. p.s.p.s. Engine has had semi-rough idle on cold start for years, but far south of the diesel-like roughness described above. Thanks!

[@dustinserbin3054]

Would it make sense to do a sealant such as Reinzosil on the outside of these?

[@nv1493]

Why not just use an E8 torx wrench to get behind the oil cooler and ps reservoir? A slight dremel or file relief of the upper right corner of the cooler allows you to get the left E8 bolt out of the adjuster. You can save a lot of extra work.

[@ccodella1188]

Depends on the model of vehicle. I wish i had removed the reservoir, it would have saved me a lot of aggravation and potential leak since I had to loosen it anyway

[@Traka83]

Nice video, I have cuestión MB 2008 r350 code P0021 bank2? I have to change al 4 sensor n the camshaft magnet to?

[@scottmorningstar5229]

Code P0021 is bank 2 intake manifold VVT solenoid. Bank 2 is the drivers side of the engine. The solenoid could have an intermittent failure or the oil control valve attached could be the problem and need cleaning

[@brewtownwi]

Amazing Video. Well done.

[@hongliu09]

Just an FYI , I did all 4 sensors and all 4 magnets not removing any other components, just need a 1/4 inch box end wrench.

[@ThegreatBoso]

Please which of camshaft position sensor is bank 2?

[@cc12h22w]

Fast and Furious work , awesome

[@HowtoAutomotive]

Thank you!

[@Trucker2083]

the ones on the back of the engine are they the same? i have oil leak on the one that is on the back of engine on left side

[@minalchampaneri1017]

Is that what you need to do for P0016 and P0017 codes?

[@williamlegall2988]

Great, great job on this video!!!

[@njoeandjen]

Do you have to do any adaptive adjustments after replacing those I'm getting a p 0011 code still and that's the one I replaced

[@johnjlewis3252]

great vid. i have a w203 C180 2006 can u give me the part # for the camshaft adjuster magnet o-ring ?

[@Whocares1020]

My m272 has a problem where , on cold start after I start the enginge 3-5 seconds pass a rattle sound appears , if I change those will the rattlestop? All Mechaincs are saying its from bad timing chain and they want to replace it which costs a lot of $$$

[@bravacentauri1978]

Brian - great video. The V8 engine on a 550 seems to limit the room to remove the PS reservoir, any tips? Also, are you aware of any recalibration that is/can be necessary following replacement of the adjuster magnets? I was told that you should replace all four at the same time, rather than just the problematic code-showing ones.

[@AlGolzari]

Yes, the magnets are a maintenance item, actually...and should be changed at 100K miles...so changing all 4 at once makes sense, like I did. I don't have an S-class. I'm a humble guy with a C-class. But assuming it's the same set up, in general, they don't need any recalibration. They self adjust to the cams once they are installed; the variable valve timing should do the adjusting.

[@maryeryan1290]

Well done. Keep up the good work.

[@HowtoAutomotive]

Thank you! Will do.

[@PRTube01]

Do you have to replace all 4 at the same time, or just the one that has a code?

[@scottmorningstar5229]

No, you don’t need change all 4 at the same time. It can be risky. It’s safer to change one at a time to make sure you don’t get any faults from the part you just replaced.

[@ccodella1188]

You can take the adjusters out and check each one, theres another video of someone doing that. However you will need new orings for them once they come out. Its just easier to replace them all at the same time. For me I for sure had three leaking badly and the fourth one once removed was stuck also.

[@jakobporterz3211]

Mine shows me P052D and P052B how do I know which side I change out?

[@tudorbit438]

I am wondering what codes did you get that made you decide to replace these? P0016/P0017 ?

[@nikost3349]

Which size of oring do i need for the camshaft position sensor?

[@AutobahnDan]

An E8 swivel socket makes the job a little easier for the top 2 bolts

[@erikrodriguez2332]

Good explained! Very clear images! Thankyou! 👌

[@s6a6n6d6m6a6n]

Hello, what an amazing video with great explanation and good video angles. I have a GL450 (x164), and getting some codes. From your video it seems its pretty straight forward - going to give it a shot. However, not sure what to replace. I have 3 fault codes : What do you think should be replaced - the magnet or the sensor? P0012 - INTAKE (A) CAMSHAFT POSITION TIMING OVER RETARDED BANK 1 P0015 - EXHAUST (B) CAMSHAFT POSITION TIMING OVER RETARDED BANK 1 P0025 - EXHAUST (B) CAMSHAFT POSITION TIMING OVER RETARDED BANK 2 Also i understand these to be #1, #2 and #4 (L to R) from the mechanic's perspective. Is this correct?

[@youthfull4776]

Did you ever get it fixed ?? I’m having the same codes on my m272 engine it’s a 08 c350 …. I did a fixfinder read at auto zone and picked up those codes I’m trying to see what I need to replace and what parts … I see the cam magnet kit on FCP euro but I was told to change the VVT which idk where that’s located or how it looks … lol

[@s6a6n6d6m6a6n]

@@youthfull4776 yes I ended up changing all 4 magnets, super easy did it myself. Oem parts from Amazon were like $80 for all 4.

[@darynwadahara973]

My r350 cranks but doesnt stop until i turn the key back and when i do there is a spinning sound but does not start. Can you help pls.

[@yamahabalu]

Hello Gentleman, I have been following your all videos in KZbin. Thanks for your time and interest and sharing. I have 2006 E350 and like to change VVT solenoid (not the magnet). Can you please guide me. Or location if the part please. Thanks in advance

[@AlGolzari]

I'm fairly sure the solenoid is the magnet. There are 4 magnets and 4 sensors. Intake and exhaust...2 sides. The magnets are in front of the valve covers. They look like "Vs" with a circle in the middle, and held on by 3 bolts. The camshaft sensors are circular, and on top of the magnets, and have only 1 bolt.

[@nazarramsey9490]

Great video, very descriptive and right to the point...thanks man

[@MelanieGenX]

I. trying to find the vvt solonoid. where is it located?

[@jasonc.4683]

Hey Bryan dont know if u mentioned it but why exactly are u changing those adjusters. Was there a code for it or related to those adjusters. I'm curious because I love diagnosing cars and trying to get better on those mercedes because there is very little info on those euro cars. Thanx and awesome videos. U are tempting me to get that 1/4 inch stubby 😁

[@aarons.6714]

The sensors and adjusters have O-rings that leak after some time and need to be changed. Or the parts themselves get old and need replacing, I've been getting a P0025 code for my car so I need to replace the cam adjuster magnet, or both.

[@Rei-fm9yw]

Quick question: did you replace the sensor too? Do I have to replace the sensor or would the old one work?

[@scottmorningstar5229]

The old sensor can be reinstalled.

[@ccodella1188]

New o rings on the sensors is what you are supposed to do, theyre all in there together so taking some of them out gives more room and then you need the new orings.

[@craigkeller]

Great video. Thank you.

[@HowtoAutomotive]

Thank you for watching!

[@CrucialSpeaks]

Great job!

[@HowtoAutomotive]

Thank you!

[@trainofthaughtify]

Will a 0060 code be related to this?

[@RothBeyondTheGrave]

If you're also referencing generic P0015 which goes along with 0060, yes. That should be for Right side (bank1) exhaust

[@thekudonderboss]

Thank you!!!!

[@KrisP.94]

Did you have to drain the oil before changing the magnets ?

[@KrisP.94]

Anybody ?

[@ccodella1188]

No

[@ozzstars_cars]

You mean Benz made it easy no need to remove the oil cooler? That's no fun. lol. How did you determine the sensors were defective, what codes?

[@HowtoAutomotive]

Glen two of the cam adjusters we’re leaking oil and I had one code for an intake cam out of sync P0015 and one for the exhaust cam P0025. Basically it’s a magnetic switch when apply power and ground a pushrod will push out and push the lever inside the engine allowing oil to flow to the cam synchronizers so they’re pretty simple the test.

[@aarons.6714]

I'm actually very glad the oil cooler doesn't need to come off, I've been getting the P0025 code so I have to do this repair soon.

[@HowtoAutomotive]

Aaron S. Good luck with the repair.

[@youngmack5206]

@@HowtoAutomotive will this. help my p0022 code on my c350

[@youngmack5206]

@@HowtoAutomotive I have rough idle after a tune up y

[@njoeandjen]

2007 mercedes GL450 which sensor is bad for P0022 thanks!

[@nicureality1427]

One behind the oil cooler

[@khamtp42]

this very good video thank you

[@HowtoAutomotive]

Thank you for watching!

[@metalmanglers1026]

Nicely done!

[@HowtoAutomotive]

Thank you!

[@enkhdalaimunkhdorj8076]

Hii, I got check engine light and in OBD scan it says @the position of the intake camshaft deviates from the specified value in direction retarded during cold start'' is it camshaft position sensor or other issues pls reply

[@AlGolzari]

This is a classic problem with the M272 engine. In my 2006 C280, I had a bad balance shaft (the infamous balance shaft problem that plagued early M272 engines). I currently have a 2010 C300 and last year I also had the same check engine code...and I replaced all 4 of my magnets and the problem went away. *Keep in mind that with these M272 engines, there's camshaft sensors and then there's the camshaft magnets (solenoids). 4 magnets and 4 sensors. The first thing I would do is replace the magnets - since those are usually what fails...and the magnets are doing the actual "work" of adjusting the cams. So I recommend buying magnets before buying sensors. If you need sensors too, then that would be a next step. The magnets are a maintenance issue anyway and after about 100K miles, they really should be changed. If that's not your problem then unfortunately you have internal engine problems. I hope you don't have a balance shaft problem (codes 1200, 1204, 1208, etc.) since that's an engine out job and not worth it. Otherwise, you have some time of other internal timing problem. Either your camshafts themselves, or the cam guides, timing chain, etc. I know this engine pretty well...and those are the culprits. If you have a high mileage car, you "may" want to also try slightly thicker oil. Don't know what oil you use or specific car you have. But if you use 0W40 for example and you have high mileage, you may want to change to 5W40 at this point. Both are approved for the M272 in the USA. The 5W40 is slightly thicker and the camshafts may respond to it better...just wanted to provide one last thought.

[@TheClearSync]

@@AlGolzari you are 100% correct sir. Adjuster, then solenoids, if neither work chances are its your balance shaft. There was a class action lawsuit against Mercedes for their m272 and m273 engines (they acknowledged that their balance shafts are “defective”). The job can be extremely costly if you take it to a mechanic since would have to remove the engine from the car to replace this part. Good luck to anyone who got a CEL and is going through the diagnosis process, pray its those adjusters🤣

[@AlGolzari]

​@@TheClearSync Thanks for your comments, Gitbow. Actually it's very interesting that you replied to this when you did. I wrote the above comment 3 months ago and recently, my check engine light came back...but I'm not overly stressed since I know this engine and I don't have the balance shaft issue. And like I said I replaced all 4 magnets last summer. I'm now having code P0019, bank 2, sensor b - driver's side, exhaust cam. The driver's side exhaust cam is not correlating with the crankshaft. But it's NOT the camshaft position sensor as I suspected since that's usually not the problem. I swapped it and I get the same code. I'm thinking that it might be the actual SOLENOID itself - the oil control valve that sits in the engine head, in front of the cams, and they interact with the magnets. I'm writing this comment if it helps anyone. If I clear the code with my scan tool, I can drive as much as I want (over 100 miles) with no check engine light. The light will come on after the next time I start my car, though. So my next step is to take out the oil control valve, and clean it. I hope that will fix it. And I will also test it mechanically. If it's mechanically at fault, I will replace the valve (about $55 for the exhaust side cam and $70 for the intake side cam). But for those who have this issue too and see this comment, check the oil control valves as a possible solution to all the vvt codes...the valves sometimes get stuck in either the open or closed position. I don't think it's my crankshaft position sensor since if it was, why would I only get a code for only 1 camshaft? (But I may check that, too). My engine oil is clean but I have 137K miles so the oil control valve can be dirty/stuck. Even though the balance shaft issues only plagued the early M272/273 engines, I believe the M272/273 was the first time Mercedes used variable valve timing in their engine platforms...and these are so finicky. The car runs fine and I'm not too worried since I know this engine at this point, but I will get to the bottom of this and solve it somehow! I used to also own a 1987 190E 2.6 (straight 6, the original baby Benz)...that car had no variable valve timing and a straight 6 cylinder - man I wish I still had that car, it was UNBREAKABLE! :)

[@sodilouis4418]

@@AlGolzari Going through your comments maybe you can help my situation. On my 2006 Mercedes R350. It stopped starting some months back and I’ve been trying to get it back running slowly. Before it stopped starting many things have already been done to the car such as fuel pump, fuel pressure sensor, new coils, new plugs, one o2 sensor, brand new battery, new alternator all at different times of course but just giving a quick background because it was still done during the 1.5 years I’ve had it. It was having multiple cylinder misfires. Changing the plugs and coils did not work. After that the car just stopped starting all together and since then I’ve replaced the fuel injectors. That didn’t help. Mechanic then came back to diagnose the car and said ecm was bad. Had that repaired and yet the car still doesn’t start. I am now searching KZbin and forums for some directions. I am wondering if maybe the camshaft sensors or even the crankshaft sensor may be what the car needs to come back to life. Any ideas or suggestions?

[@AlGolzari]

@@sodilouis4418 Hi Sodi, sorry to hear all this trouble. I'll try to help but just to make sure, I'm not a mechanic, just a "educated amateur" that loves and knows this engine :). Anyway, as I was reading through I also thought perhaps your ECM. BUT, yes, I do know and have heard about 6 cases where the car wouldn't start and the CRANKshaft sensor could do that. The camshaft sensors, well, they also may cause the car to not start but do you have a scanner and do you have any camshaft-related codes, somewhere in the range of P0012-P0019? If you have a code for one camshaft but not another, try swapping it and see if the code changes. In general, the camshaft sensors don't go bad since they are not a moving part, but yes, it IS a possibility. The magnets, however, do go bad after around 100K miles and I just recently took out and cleaned my oil control valve for left exhaust - P0019. It didn't cause my car to not start but it did cause a check engine light and a bit of a rough idle, so I'm glad I was able to also fix that myself with a $6 can of parts cleaner and a little of my own labor time. Have you also changed the PCV valve? Sorry for some of these questions but I don't think you specified if and what codes you have. Hope this perhaps helps.

[@1970chevelle396]

I started turning all the jobs down on the European cars. Seems like so many people are buying them at used car lots. Then they don't want to spend any money on them.

[@henryforo3566]

How to know your cam adjuster is bad?

[@mydc2200]

I got code p0324 knock sensor, p0018 and P0019 after starting the engine even i erase the code

[@salvadorgutierrezr5914]

Thank you 👍👍👍👍👍

[@n474music]

The better

[@raymondclarke2877]

W212 2009 -2016 HEAD GASKET REMOVAL

[@BMWI-gk9wh]

What symptoms where you having

[@SP_Mediaa]

very simple fix did it in less than 20min didn't have to drain any fluid

[@ccodella1188]

20min, you need to go pro./...

[@johnsantamaria3179]

Your links are not working

[@MigElite1]

You DO NOT need to remove the reservoir. You CAN get the bolts and sensors out without removing it, granted its a bit tight but it CAN be done. Just put a rag underneath the sensors just in case you drop the bolts.

[@ccodella1188]

Depends on the vehicle, I had to loosen my reservoir to have clearance for the magnet to come out.

[@outboardfixer]

WHY are you changing it??? What do they do and what happens if they FAIL???

[@jorgearenas1837]

Cam adjusters bro,so we talking the expensive job to replace the adjusters

[@jorgearenas1837]

Cam adjusters

[@ccodella1188]

Your car wont start or it may sometimes and sometimes not. Rough idle, stalling. All sorts of issues.

[@mglmori]

why are replacing sensors

[@PaulyD0859]

That p/s o ring was going begin leaking soon, anyway. They’ve used that design for some time and I think, sooner or later, they ALL leak.

[@HowtoAutomotive]

Paul E It was definitely starting to leak.

[@locoandrade7266]

Vales varilla no se saca nada de eso para cambiar solo sale sacando la tapa

[@RoadHeros610]

How to ...are u in California...sourhern california ...do u have a number I can contact u at

[@Usmanthemecano]

After you replace the intake cuz runners are stuck, actuator broke as usual, now you have Cam codes which really are a bigger issue lots of the time... Balance shaft. Never buy this car

[@b376010]

Terrible video. Those aren't camshaft adjusters. Those are camshaft solenoids. The adjusters are inside the engine behind the solenoids.

[@SupaSickVizualz]

Is this code p0015?????????