Step-by-Step Process Of Making An Italian Suit | Second Fitting ft. Eric Jensen Sartoria Gallo NYC

Part two of the making of Kirby Allison's new Custom Italian Suit being Bespoke Suit maker by Eric Jensen of Sartoria Gallo NYC. Eric Jensen explains the step-by-step process of making a bespoke Italian suit and the different stages the suit takes from the first, second and third fitting.
Fabric Details
Dormeuil ECHO 841002
Echo is the stylish new Super 130's fabric from Dormeuil using two different Merino wools
sourced from Patagonia and Australia, and blended in a ratio of 56% Patagonian / 44%
Australian wool, expressly chosen for their differing characteristics.
The combination lends the cloth softness and unique performance, including natural
stretch, while the finishing process ensures maximum water-repellency. Dormeuil's innovation and concern for sustainability come together in Echo, making use of the latest ground-breaking forgery-proof blockchain technology to track and guarantee
the origin of the wool, through different stages of production to the final fabric.
+Product+
- Super 130's quality
- Weight 240 / 260 grs (8 oz)
- 100% traceable
- Natural stretch
- Water repellent finishing
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Step-by-Step Process Of Making An Italian Suit | Second Fitting ft. Eric Jensen Sartoria Gallo NYC
00:00 Introduction
01:03 Merging With Sartoria Gallo and Trip To Italy
02:17 What's Next For Eric and Sartoria Gallo NYC
03:11 Talking About First Suit Made By Eric
04:20 What To Know About Custom High-Wasted Trousers
07:20 About 2nd Bespoke Italian Suit (Fabric)
08:50 Second Fitting of Bespoke Italian Suit Explained
13:50 Second Fitting of Bespoke Trousers
14:47 Wearing New Italian Suit For Second Fitting
19:18 Next, Second Fitting Of The Jacket
35:43 How To Contact Eric Jensen At Sartoria Gallo NYC
WHAT IS KIRBY WEARING
Dark Grey Italian Bespoke Suit @sartoria.gallo.nyc
White Dress Shirt @charvet_official
Sovereign Grade Dark Navy and Gold Jacquard Tie
www.kirbyallison.com/kirby-al...
Simonnot Godard Plain White Cotton Pocket Square
www.kirbyallison.com/simonnot...
Sovereign Grade Dark Navy Ancient Madder Braces
www.kirbyallison.com/sovereig...
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FAQ’s www.kirbyallison.com/faq

[@dw309]

I really appreciate seeing my generation keeping traditions like tailoring alive. Great job gents.

[@kirbyallison]

It is indeed exciting to see this new generation of master craftsmen coming into the world stage!

[@PartyGod2400]

@@kirbyallison yes exactly the world stage of professional men's clothing 2022. Very high skill foreign imported

[@SarcastSempervirens]

this should have millions of views. it's a tv level quality you'd expect to get, but never get except on youtube now. I'd pay for this suit whatever it costs.

[@StarWarriorMusic]

I am always just stunned by Mr. Jensen's level of knowledge and passion for his craft. What a great guy to work with!

[@kirbyallison]

You’ll love our next video with Eric, then, where we take a look at the differences in cut between a bunch of different suits!

[@StarWarriorMusic]

@@kirbyallison that will be awesome! I pretty much only have suits and sportcoarts with the classic American cut so I would love to see an in depth breakdown of other styles of cuts. I know some of the basics of what separates different regions but one can never learn too much!

[@GT-me1ke]

Thanks for sharing this Kirby; Eric is extremely knowledgable.

[@GonzoJamie]

Hey Kirby - that was sublime. An absolutely stunning outfit which clearly distinguishes a man amongst the most distinguished of guests.

[@kirbyallison]

Thank you!! 🙏🙏

[@maxine2798]

Great content as ever. It’s lovely to see your relationship develop. You appear to have a good friendship now and that makes the conversation flow with humour. Thanks

[@kirbyallison]

Indeed! It is one of the most rewarding aspects of the bespoke experience.

[@roacfinger1114]

Wow really appreciate the passion and craftsmanship with making a suit!

[@freakymalik]

Dear Mr. Allison, i only recently discovered your channel, and I'm astonished that it doesn't have more subscribers, your work is paramount and very inspiring. I have to say thank you for providing a platform for people with these kind of interests, my whole life I loved male elegance, and tried to practice it to the best of my possibilities; but is nice to know you are not alone and having a place to get information and entertainment is gold. Looking at your channel skyrocket in the next future will be a pleasure. Cheers from Italy Alessandro

[@bheinatz1]

Beautiful suit, Jensen is living the life is a true tailoring master! I also would like to point out that at 3:50 Eric said, "it tickles both our boxes," which is something I never thought I'd hear on Kirby's channel! 😂

[@markhardycreative]

Lol I picked up on the tickles rather than ticks comment as well.

[@kirbyallison]

😂🤷‍♂️

[@eric.m.anthony5892]

Yesterday Francis Waplinger bespoke shoes, today Eric Jensen italian suit perfect match

[@kirbyallison]

Yes. I really need to pull that together.

[@PartyGod2400]

@@kirbyallison your the best men's wear streamer in america

[@mitchrich6]

Nice beginning for your new location. Lovely explanation

[@giannismarkos2097]

I love the shoulder on his suits!!i also love the approach towards his clients!bravo.i would like to see him in a peak lapel suit.

[@kirbyallison]

I don’t think I’d do a peak single breasted, but would love to have Eric make me a double breasted one day soon.

[@charliesmash]

Kirby dropping it hot on a Saturday.

[@gastondeveaux3783]

Wow, Kirby that suit you had on at 0:43-0:50 (grey) is amazing also.

[@SueEmmDee]

This tailor dude is a MAESTRO.

[@andrewcaplen5088]

Kirby you are impeccably dressed! Saving up to buy a tie from your shop.

[@titusmwangi580]

Wow, this guy is very good.👌🏾

[@christopherconverso8694]

Very nice work

[@GavinJorgensenMusic]

Love the video, always great to see Mr. Jensen on the channel! Where in the description is the video on his school of tailoring? I’d love to more about that

[@MrStrategy67]

Good Video Kirby. Greetings from Germany

[@mederega]

Nice video Kirby

[@skeens85]

Nice video

[@brucer6239]

Kirby - You should also profile three other BYC tailors, who do true bespoke. Len Logsdail, the Englishman, who is the Dean of US bespoke tailors, Joseph Genuardi, profiled in the documentary “The Men of the Cloth,” and Savile Row-trained Yosel Tiefenbrun, a.k.a. The Rabbi Tailor. Joseph and Yosel are the future of the craft.

[@prateekpareek8217]

i really appreciate you guys going into fine details of Italian suits, i love italian suits. I hope, one day i can afford one of these suits or a whole collection! that would be the dream,

[@jasonsmith2490]

Love the content Kirby, I live in Wylie and would love to come into your store one day

[@kirbyallison]

Feel free to stop by anytime! We’d love to welcome you!

[@ghostygallagher]

wonderful, cant wait to see it finished, I hope you don't mind, I like to call this kind of suit, an in-between suit, not English but not really Italian.... could be and should be used anywhere anytime, maybe two pair of pants should be made, as am sure your going to using this a lot....lol lol wow brilliant Kirby

[@kirbyallison]

Gray observation. The Romans occupy an interesting middle ground. And the fabric on this is amazing. It’s really divine.

[@Mauriseph86]

Kirby beautiful video! out of curiosity do you have any bespoke suits by Cifonelli?

[@michaelhuynh4093]

Hi Kirby, enjoy your videos as always and admire your wardrobe collection. What's the width of the lapel on the jacket?

[@plpolo2642]

I’m really interested in tailoring school, is there anywhere I can find more information about that?

[@kieron1227]

Kirby what knot did you use on your suit? I’m having issues figuring the proper knot for the appropriate collar.

[@39872adnan]

After my kid is out for college I would love to invest in a bespoke suit.

[@kirbyallison]

Great way to celebrate!

[@HeavyProfessor]

Kirby, you should check out Sebastiano Montella on Long Island. I am in the process of having several things made by him. He is truly a master.

[@kirbyallison]

Great to know!

[@Nick-rt2np]

Looks really great! Is it me or does this lapel have a little less belly than your previous one from Eric?

[@kirbyallison]

For sure. I think Eric has certainly further refined his style over the last two years. And having everything made in Rome certainly elevates the finishing significantly.

[@Tyradius]

I like having the same amount of sleeve showing as the back of my collar. Maybe I'm strange that way. 😅

[@phill1041]

def need to start doing some videos on skincare to take care of those crows feet my guy!

[@Yagweh1]

How is this tailoring different from clothes from Milan where most of the best ready made comes from.

[@momez9139]

Where will the information for the school be? I am very interested and in NY so some direction would be great!

[@kirbyallison]

Hold tight. Video is forthcoming.

[@omarhaq4274]

What are the price points for Sartoria Gallo suits?

[@Solis_Occasum]

The fabric got an amazing depth. What is the exact fabric?

[@kirbyallison]

Dormeuil ECHO 841002

[@kirbyallison]

Info added to description.

[@abdulazizahmed838]

whats the ball park price point for a 2 piece suit? $5K, $10K, $15K?

[@leelifeson9150]

I’m a complete novice when it comes to bespoke suits and will probably get negative responses to my opinion. So hears mine ! For me when I see a sleeve raised above the body of a jacket it looks awkward, and ungainly… Personally I would want my top body and sleeve to be perfectly level…

[@maxine2798]

The roped sleeve head (I think this is what you’re describing) is a more formal look. It can add height to your shoulders, actually scrap the can- it does! This helps if you have sloped shoulders. I also feel that the small roll of extra fabric give more room for your arms away from the body of the jacket. Have a look at jackets with roped shoulders on some of the style icons, men’s and women’s and you’ll see the help it gives to a shoulder shape, all the way through to the drama of an exaggerated roll. If you don’t like it, that’s ok as it’s your choice. Just don’t close your mind to it

[@walterfoyt5985]

What is the difference between an Italian and an English suit?

[@sunhuizart3821]

Hey Kirby you've made a suit before right when you were younger? Have you ever considered giving shoemaking a go? Just for a bit of fun?

[@kirbyallison]

It would be fun to take some time to give it a try!

[@johnwoodyear]

Next up, Kirby buys a weird bespoke pajama 3 piece suit to sleep in

[@stakkerhmnd]

Which one is better? Saville Row or an Italian suit? What are the differences? Thanks!

[@Jim58223]

Depends on which style you like more and your budget. One is not inherently better than the other. Even if you compare houses, it all comes down to preferences.

[@stakkerhmnd]

@@Jim58223 Can be better in terms of the quality of construction. This is something that people don't seem to care about these days and only care about style.

[@Jim58223]

@@stakkerhmnd Again it depends on the house. If you generally want a more relaxed cut Italian, and if you want more structure Saville row. But this can still vary vastly depending on the house. Italian suits are generally less expensive due to labour costs. I don't think anyone going for a bespoke suit doesn't care about quality of construction. Because at that price point the major houses generally have access to the same fabrics and the quality of construction is around the same. It all becomes who you prefer personally. If you want to learn the differences these are good videos: kzbin.info/www/bejne/l360oaaindCjp7c kzbin.info/www/bejne/d6jWdJusrJmUjtU kzbin.info/www/bejne/bKeyeKiVjdmWqrs

[@stakkerhmnd]

@@Jim58223 Many thanks! I've learned a lot from you and I agree on all your excellent points. I will look at the YT links you posted. My only other question is about Italian shoes: everyone tells me that are stylish, but very uncomfortable, expensive and fall apart quickly. That's what made me ask about the quality of Italian suits.

[@Jim58223]

@@stakkerhmnd My pleasure. Regarding your question about shoes, are you going for bespoke, off the rack, or made to order? It would really depend on that, and again it would depend on the maker. A lot of Italian shoes off the rack tend to be blake stitch, which is generally not as durable as good year welted, and they also tend to just glue the sole on sometimes. But that also depends on the maker. Even some bespoke Italian makers do Blake stitch, but I'm sure you can get them to do a good year/360 deg handwelt. It all depends on what you want. But blake stitched shoes and other Italian shoes are known to be more comfortable shoes, that are less formal and more relaxed, just like their suits. So I would say they are not uncomfortable, quite the opposite actually. I would recommend you watch these videos to know the difference: kzbin.info/www/bejne/o4KXlaKLd9CapZY kzbin.info/www/bejne/gKHQZ4ufppx3n8U

[@monkeypawism]

So what's the starting cost of a two-piece suit from Sartoria Jensen?

[@kirbyallison]

$4,500

[@monkeypawism]

@@kirbyallison Thank you. Can't wait to see it done. Fit and cloth look great! And his comment on house style has me sold.

[@firearmsstudent]

If I may ask, what was the cost of the suit?

[@jensensartoria7376]

$4,500 depending upon fabric

[@LB-kr5ku]

What is an estimated cost of a suit like this?

[@kirbyallison]

$4,500

[@LB-kr5ku]

@@kirbyallison Thanks

[@junx12]

Im a tailor also

[@machtschnell7452]

Funny little bloomers at the top of the sleeves at the shoulder seam. Is it the 80s again?

[@max2grant]

Kirby, I am confused. You say this is your first video shot in your new set, but we’ve been seeing videos come out on this set for a while… Is this an old video that’s been re-released?

[@kirbyallison]

Same set… just our new office. We rebuilt it to look exactly the same.

[@max2grant]

Kirby Allison oooohhhh. Gotcha! Thanks!

[@freedyorozco8451]

🎩🥃

[@dqalombardi]

Me watching in my red pin-stripe zoot suit with floral lining and red button holes: 😁.. 😟.. 😞😞😞

[@PartyGod2400]

Young black men watch this

[@markj9267]

Price? You can’t do these without mentioning the price. Thank you.

[@kirbyallison]

Eric’s current price for a two piece bespoke suit is $4,500.

[@markj9267]

Thank you for the reply. I really enjoy the channel.

[@VictorLamme]

What's up with the weird shoulders? 1980's timetravel?

[@casbot71]

Italian Tailor: ... And what style? John Wick: Italian. Italian Tailor: How many buttons? John Wick: Two. Italian Tailor: Trousers? John Wick: Tapered. Italian Tailor: How about the lining? John Wick: Tactical.

[@kirbyallison]

Lol

[@PaulEllisaustralia]

sleeve head is weird

[@lteodorescu]

too much cuff, then the tailor has like a 2 inch cuff on his suit, cmon man

[@Starkiller5019]

I came expecting ASMR😒

[@effay83]

the raised shoulder doesn't look good

[@_Viking]

Meh.. much cheaper suits at Walmart

[@dreamrestore213]

8:15....wow.... Just can't help letting out that racism....

[@svetakhamaganova6302]

You’re talking too much, it’s boring