Fixing a dead ebike battery

[@Cool_Papa_Funk]

Finally, a video that shows the process of diagnosing and repairing from start to finish. Thank you, this is what I have been looking for!

[@TheChargeShow]

Finally? I did one like this last year. :)

[@luckyrucker1]

This is the best, most complete video I’ve yet seen on diagnosing and fixing electric bike batteries. I am still uneasy about trying this myself. I will check out any other bideos you have made. If you know of other resources that would help a beginner and would be willing to share them it would be very much appreciated. The information I have come across so far is quite fragmented and

[@stevenc22]

CC I have a video where I built this battery. Best way to learn to fix something is to build it or see it being built. 👍

[@Neilukuk]

@@stevenc22 Is this battery enough to kill you if you touched both ends or would it hurt? Just wanted to know before touching any of these packs. Thanks

[@stevenc22]

@@Neilukuk below 40V, battery cant hurt you. 40-60V your skins tingles and burns alittle, but nothing serious. I touch this battery constantly will working on it and just get a burning sensation in my skin, but no damage.

[@Neilukuk]

@@stevenc22 Thanks I appreciate the info, It's definitely a deadly important thing to know :)

[@kurtismckemmie4850]

It's a heck of a lot cheaper than buying a new battery pack! My battery is only getting about 35 miles per charge. It's enough to get me from my town and two more two more towns over and most of the way back. I'm planning on checking out my battery fully this week.

[@2Bikemad]

I suggest that you solder the balance leads to the nickel strip mid way between two cells, as it significantly reduces the amount of heat being applied to the ends of the cells. If the faulty cell was not punctured during the spot weld process, then the excessive heat applied directly to the end of the cell with the soldering iron during the initial battery build is probably the reason why that cell has failed.

[@edwardk3]

Bingo

[@Sglydipate]

I was thinking that too.

[@davidsnyder3799]

Is there a reason why the solder connection to the nickel strip could not be made before the nickel strip is even spot welded to the batteries? It seems that that would be the logical sequence to completely separate soldering heat from interacting with the batteries.

[@stevenc22]

You could do that but I don't normally think three steps ahead. I do each step in order and deal with as I go. Plus a quick blob of solder to the strip is no big deal on the completed battery.

[@ManMan-b5y5c]

You seem very professional in your work and knowledge of battery's unfortunately I have no clue but I would like to ask your advice,I have a 750watt bafang rear hub motor with 22A KT controller my battery is a 48v 21ah in your opinion is this set up safe any advice much appreciated.​@@stevenc22

[@richardgreen8694]

You are very lucky to replace one cell. I have done this ,but then found the others in that row have been damaged and there capacity reduced . Although the battery works I have found a 20% loss in range . I cover the cell rows in fish paper so I can work on the one row safely,

[@ConradBell-e1x]

The bms is to be blamed .how to dismantle bns

[@richardgreen8694]

Buy new unplug BMS check negative end is same and BMS has two or three wires

[@Tonyv1951]

Around 12:51 where you checked the voltage of the low cell pack, they would be bound to be the same voltage because they had all been connected together in parallel. If one was self discharging, it would drag charge from the others so they would stay the same voltage. Good video. Interesting to see you solve the issue and refurbish it. So much better than sending it for recycling which many people would do.

[@ForTheManDIY]

I suggest that the suspect cell may not be bad. Instead it had a high resistance to the metal strip which allowed the other cells to discharge faster than the rest of the battery pack groups. The accumulative use of the bike allowed this cell group to discharge faster until the BMS flagged that cell group and the battery pack as dead. This is why the suspect battery cell charged back up quickly, the only serious discharge was thru the bad negative connection high resistance so it's voltage eventually discharged down to the other cell group voltage via a very low discharge current. The suspect cell did not provide power to the bike in operation therefore it's charge state was higher than the other 4-cells. Just my consideration for this fail. Thanks for the video I now know how to find a cell spot welder.

[@Tonyv1951]

No - the cell was at the same voltage as the others in that group it was a part of.

[@rhiantaylor3446]

I bought a boost converter to help recover "dead" batteries. I find you need to bring all the cells to at least 3v for normal charging to kick back in but it takes relatively little charge (i.e. current) to lift cells that initial way up the charge curve so you don't need a powerful higher voltage bench supply. In fact it does no good to force normal charge current into an over-depleted cell and I typically set a current limit of 50-100ma per cell until the voltage is up past the minimum quoted by the cell specs which may be 2.5v.

[@farmboycharlie6543]

Just a FYI the old rule of thumb is mark and change 1 cell on either side of a failed cell. A s they were amperage stressed during the cell failure. Your load testing was spot on think of it as a glass of water you can't drain or fill. Your checking capacity it should drain slow and fill slow. I If voltage goes down quick or tops off quickly it's bad...... no capacity

[@overexposurevideo]

really cool video, I'm lazy sometimes and first try to charge the "empty cell pack ( 5 cell) " first with a hobby charger when still in place and see if it will come back to life. Lots of times it will ! , love your spot welder !! so tiny and handy

[@overexposurevideo]

Videos like yours are really good for the environment because people dare to do a job like this themself and not trash their batteries when they are dead and buy a new one !

[@tygy9986]

Great and detailed video!! What is the best way to jump start a battery like this?

[@jimgraham4673]

Ok, I'm game to do some preliminary testing on my bike. I don't have access to much except the multi-meter. I don't know how to proceed if I find I have a bad cell(s). If you have any suggestions please pass them along. Thanks so much, great video.

[@BicycleFunk]

Find and ebike shop and ask if they repair batteries?

[@edcottingham1]

Hey, looks like if you are the kind of guy who can reset a circuit breaker in your home electrical panel, then you are good to go with the depth of knowledge needed here! Just kidding, of course. Thanks Stevenc22. Great little introduction to the mysteries of the ebike battery. Now, all I have to do is wait impatiently for mine to fail!

[@rogerborg]

"I need to be careful" [is not careful _at all_ ] Still, great work, it's nice to see someone _actually_ fixing a battery, rather than clickbaiting it as exercise for the viewer.

[@Whoadayson]

Do you have a video on the DIY spot welder that you referenced using? Im looking into building my own. Also, what are the chances that someone other than you got in the pack (as it seems to be easily accessible with no tamper tape on it) and tried to 'fix' it but made it worse. I only say this because that does look nastier than you'd normally send out the door? Anyway, thanks for the videos!

[@stevenc22]

I built that battery from scratch in a 4 part series on my KZbin channel. I recently built a new battery and it's also on my channel

[@Whoadayson]

@@stevenc22 OK thx. I had a look around on your channel after this comment and found more on that tab welder too. Ill have a look at those batt vids!

[@kanongkamduang5986]

Thank you so much for sharing this video so I'm going to try to fix my bike battery.

[@JujuLi-x3u]

Where can you get new cells to replace worn out batteries?

[@stuartbell5626]

Do you accept batteries for repair. I have an Archeer 48 V that died exactly as your video describes. I can't figure out how to get apart

[@kurtismckemmie4850]

You mean ancheer? They have spare battery packs but for mine it's much harder to find. Mine is a step through.

[@nicholasmorrill4711]

Really enjoyed that.I am a precision mechanical engineer who knows nothing about these things & it was a joy to behold.I just wished you were around to get to grips with the sod that I own.

[@paulclarke7406]

I have a assist e-bike I haven’t used it for 2/3 years and haven’t changed it but now it won’t charge is there anyway I can jumpstart

[@ERidesOn2]

I recently purchased an ebike for my wife. We noticed the battery drains down to about 50% ftom full in about 7 to 8 days if left connected to the bike. This according to the handlebar display. (5 of the 10 Bars) It does the same to the auxiliary battery. When either battery is removed from the bike this doesn't accur. The batteries take over 10 day rest before they even lose a bar. #1 Is this normal? #2 Does something always stay on when the bike is shut off on the display and the battery is left connected? #3. Or maybe there's a parasitic draw ? Sorry about all the questions. The bike was new.

[@stevenc22]

If it doesn't happen when the battery is disconnected that's good. That means the battery is healthy. The bike it self must have parasitic draw. Maybe it has Bluetooth or something else that is constantly drawing current.

[@yoyofro2022]

These batteries lose power over time and don't store your bike with a full charge, if you're not going to ride for 10 days charge to 60 percent and put on charger to 100 percent and then ride

[@FX-MORPHEUS]

Hmm.. having the same problem. My wife's bike has an alarm . Could be draing the batt

[@malingehring165]

I learned a log about this part of ebiking. I would love to get information on your spot welder. It looks compact and cheap! thanks

[@stevenc22]

Sure lots of videos on my channel where I test multiple spot welders

[@tisurmaster]

I need to repair my 72v 48Wh battery. I wonder if I can use a larger battery for longer range...

[@stevenc22]

You can but keep the voltage the same to match your motor.

[@benbrewdog]

I know video is old but My guess is after looking at connection and the battery is at full volt, here is my thought there was a bad connection (nothing worng with battery cell) it just was not giving a connection to the battery that were connected and not being used throwing the whole battery bank out wack.Just a thought.

[@noobz5056]

God told me that battery cell was bad. It loses charge and gives you a fat fluffy pillow.. The size decreases tremendously when you squeeze that pillow. It actually holds very little usable charge. This is common for batteries ending its life.

[@rdkuless]

You can use a GrinTech CycleSatiator battery charger to force start a battery that dropped too low and went into hibernation.. every couple charges, you do need to fully charge the pack to balance the cells..

[@anhtran1062]

Does it actually work? I’m considering buying a Satiator if that’s really the best way. Could you please tell me more about this?

[@rdkuless]

@@anhtran1062 Yes.. my battery went to sleep, I plugged it into the 3pin charge port. toggled.then pushed the button when it said "Force Start"... Others use higher volt batteries to "jump" or force start them.. I use the GrinSatiator.. a bit pricey but it is the best charger on the market. and other US retailers have them so they can ship fast. but the retailers don't have the knowledge to answer questions. I ordered directly from Justin at Grin.. I would not have been able to set it up with custom profiles because the software is not compatible with Apple computers... only PC. I had Justin set up several profiles: ie: 52v: full charge at 4 amps = 58.8v, 80% of 58.8v and 90% of 58.8v... Those profiles add cycles to the battery.. charging lithium fully every time will damage the cathodes/diodes on the battery and shorten the cycles. and i select the charge cables that match my batteries.. *along with the type of adapters/cables needed to program the CycleSatiator and do updates.. .. *I found out later that the programing cables/adapters are only compatible with PC... they are useless on my apple imac.. If you have questions, the Customer Service at Grin is really knowledgeable.. They have a toll free number. You can shop online . I like to buy direct. because retailers have no knowledge to answer questions.

[@rdkuless]

@@anhtran1062 There are several Cycle Satiators to choose from, select the one with the correct V voltage for your battery. if you have a 36v don't order the 72v charger.. LOL

[@anhtran1062]

@@rdkuless Thank you kind sir, it sounds like this is the most efficient way to jumpstart a hibernated ebike battery. I drained mine completely on my most recent ride, the charger doesn't recognize the battery anymore. I'll try this out. You have a great day!

[@rdkuless]

@@anhtran1062 your welcome Anh... this is all i use anymore.. I love it because the Amps can be programmed for charging from 1a to 8a.. My batteries say to use 4a so that is how i ordered it.. Other chargers charge at a full 2, 3 or 4 amps until full.. My satiator starts out at 4a, and Amps slows down (tapers off ) the charge.. starts at 4a, then ends on .01a. This protects our expensive lithium batteries.. and helps get more cycles out of it.. :) have a good day rob

[@mrkeopele]

very good thank you , what is the age of the failed cell??

[@stevenc22]

Probably 5 years. They were used cells before installed them and then I used it for 2-3 years.

[@mrkeopele]

@@stevenc22 that's nice, i've just ordered a spot welder and going to try a cell replacement soon, everything seems to be working well except the SOC reading is flakey and I took off the cover and saw a burnt end on a cell and melted case inside, so here i go real soon. your video inspired me to do it.

[@shaunyitisme3293]

Hey Stevenc22, nice video. I was going to do the same. Investigating my battery I found 1 pack being low and strangely a small burnt hole on the lead strip that connect one of the cell. I contacted a company which does repair battery and they told me that I couldn't just put a new cell because of unbalancing. Could you confirm that I can still do it and that the unbalancing might be a little overreact on their side or should I not do it ? Also I'm looking for a place to buy legit cells : samsung 50e 21700. Do you have a preference for where to buy them (I'm in Canada so it might not be similar but still) Thanks, a lot, hoping you'll answer on a 2 years old video x)

[@stevenc22]

If you charge the battery full and then replace the bad battery with a new full battery, it will probably stay balanced. But you can also use the $20 active balancer to rebalance the whole battery afterwards like I did on my latest video.

[@shaunyitisme3293]

@@stevenc22 Thanks I'll look your latest video then. Thank you for the quick answer.

[@shaunyitisme3293]

@@stevenc22 Update : I used just the balancer first rather than changing the cells and I was able to bring them all to a right voltage. I'm still testing the battery but it seems it gained some strength. Thanks a lot for that !

[@stevenc22]

@@shaunyitisme3293 sometimes a good balance is all a battery needs!

[@allanmcarthur]

Where did you get parts such as nickle strips Batteries and welder?

[@stevenc22]

Check out the build video. There are links in that video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/oXzOYn2fbatlmNE

[@DrizzRedmond]

I have the same battery anf suspect same problem just curious i had to rip a bunch of sticky tape like material off them I had to rip a bright blue plastic wrapped layer , how is the battery all assembled with none of those things out back on ?

[@stevenc22]

You can buy the blue plastic wrap and the sticky paper. You should reassemble the battery using the same materials you took off.

[@colinwhite144]

Hi out today on bike 2000wat 45amp controller 48volt 20amp battery went for a mile bike stopped no. Battery light when pressed button. I've been waiting for new PAS magnet put that on last knight then used throttle and pas was going fine then bike stopped any idea what it could be thanks

[@MichaelOlson-ls6pz]

What if one of the contacts pins is damaged

[@007bondjb]

My ebike came with 3 factory installed batteries, Can I tune one off one to save as a back up?

[@mrtechie6810]

No.

[@willdorten6867]

5:31 i wonder if that could be from heat damage, maybe it was left out in the sun? anderson power poles might be good

[@benjamindalton8940]

I'd like to consult with you about my Lectric XP battery and how to salvage it, if you'd ever be willing to help a brotha out.....

[@nighttime9539]

Any suggestions on fire safety when repairing this type of batteries? Thanks.

[@stevenc22]

Actually a good question. Having a metal box you can put the battery in if things go wrong is important. Working in a garage with a concrete floor and a big door helps too.

[@johnw614]

My battery just stopped charging. I will diagnose as you did. Where do you get the charger that also does diagnostics? I couldn't make out the name in the video. Thanks!

[@johnw614]

And where is a good place to buy cells if I do find the bad one?

[@stevenc22]

A good charger is a ISDT Q8 or Air8. I buy used cells from jag35.com/ or www.batteryclearinghouse.com/

[@pauldustyhernandez9445]

I opened up.my battery and there was a lone black wire un attached, there were only 2 wires attached to the battery red and black I soldered the wire where it goes and it showed 56 volts when I tested the 5 terminals with the +&= it showed 15.1 is it supposed to be that or 56?

[@stevenc22]

Hard to understand what you mean. The total battery voltage is probably 56V. The individual cell voltage should be about 4V a cell.

[@houdiniwho90]

@stevanc22 what type of battery case and what voltage and amp

[@chambo5554]

Where to buy individual cells?

[@stevenc22]

Jag35.com

[@stevenc22]

Batteryclearinghouse.com

[@rolet950]

After all said and done. Where do I go to buy the material??

[@stevenc22]

What material? Batteries? Case? Charger?

[@datomarlabs]

@@stevenc22 Yes all of the above thank you,

[@stevenc22]

@@datomarlabs i have a build video series with links to most of the items. kzbin.info/www/bejne/f3vSl4mbod1orMk

[@lesliethomas2081]

Good day Steve just a question can I replace a 36v12.5 with a 48v12.5 or any other type of 48v 10 etc pls need to upgrade quickly. Thanks &soon hear

[@stevenc22]

Not if your motor is a 36v motor. You need to match the voltage of the battery with the voltage of the motor/controller

[@kurtismckemmie4850]

If your motor controller is a 36/48v you should be fine.

[@MarkWillis-re5sj]

Hi I have a balance wire that terminates half way down one of the cells connecting to nothing.is this correct?

[@stevenc22]

Could it be a temperature sensor?

[@junalberbucia2337]

Do you have shop where is it

[@mrtechie6810]

Why solder directly to the pack? Could you solder to a new nickel strip and then spot weld it onto the pack?

[@stevenc22]

Sure but no harm soldering to the existing nickel connections on the pack already.

[@wenjin88]

Hi, great video. Could you explain how 1 defective battery cell can make the whole battery pack unuseable? Are there any links to that for self reading. Thanks

[@stevenc22]

So this battery has 13 cell groups in series. Each group has 5 cells in parallel. The 5 cells in parallel share their energy. One bad cell that is self discharging, will also drain all 5 cells in the group. So now that means that 1 of the 13 groups is going to have a very low voltage. The BMS will turn off charging when any one of the 13 groups gets above 4.2V and it will turn off the battery while in use if any one of the groups gets below 2.8V. So if you try to charge the battery, the 12 good groups will get full quickly and the BMS will turn off charging before the bad group has had a chance to recharge. Then when you use the battery, the BMS will turn off the battery when the low bad group get below 2.8V even though the rest of the battery is still full. There is no way to charge just 1 of the 13 groups, so that low group will never charge up and it will keep turning battery in use because it detects the low voltage group. That is why it is important the 13 groups are always balanced and at the same voltage so they charge up together and discharge together.

[@fatherofdragons4880]

My bms blew and shengmilo sent me a used replacement which was blown as well. My question is can I wire up my battery without a bms? Please help as I use my ebike for work.

[@stevenc22]

No! Do not use a battery without a BMS. You could easily catch the battery on fire during charging or use without a BMS. Buy a generic BMS and wire it up to the battery.

[@fatherofdragons4880]

@@stevenc22 wasn't planning on charging it until the BMS arrives. Just want to use what power I have in the battery which is full. Thanks for the concerns though mate.

[@warren496]

Where is the volume? Saw that you can't manage sound level.

[@tuiomiller2008]

Hi. Would the battery work if you just leave without those broken cells?

[@stevenc22]

Not really because the battery will constantly get out of balance because part of the battery is now smaller than the rest of the battery

[@szolanek]

Thanks. Planning to do one with Tesla?

[@Cotronixco]

How could one bad cell reduce the whole battery by 100%? It's not like there were not several other 14s groups in parallel with that 14s group. Would somebody with knowledge please explain. No guesses or rookies, please.

[@stevenc22]

A bad cell actually burns energy so it will suck all the energy from the other cells in its parallel group. The other parallel groups will be fine. The problem is the BMS. It stops charging if any one group is full and turns off the battery if any one group is low. So the BMS turns off the battery because of the low group but it also won't charge because the good groups are full.

[@Cotronixco]

@@stevenc22 Thanks for the reply! That makes sense. But I wonder why they can't design the battery so that if one cell goes out, the other sections would still provide (limited) power instead of making itself dead in the water. My solar PV system uses 18650 cells (thousands of them), but there are no parallel groups of cells; and if one series group goes out due to a single bad cell, all the other series groups (in parallel with all the other series groups) carry the load. Too bad these batteries aren't like that. That would simply require no parallel groups of single cells, but instead, parallel groups of series cells. Your thoughts?

[@stevenc22]

@@Cotronixco I understand what you mean. The problem is technically you would need a BMS for each series group. Series groups need a BMS to balance and maintain the cells. If you have multiple series groups, you will need multiple BMS. Not practical in a small ebike battery.

[@josephgericke6599]

Is there any risk to handle batteries in the way you did in the video? might want to buy a bike and fix it up myself

[@stevenc22]

48v batteries can shock you but it's more of a burn than a shock. Your real risk is fire. Any time you tear apart a battery there is a risk of short circuit or a bad spot weld leading to fire. Be careful and don't attempt unless comfortable with llion batteries

[@Nirobi-D]

Do you think I can use FLIR to easily find bad battery?

[@stevenc22]

Yes it's a common practice. I have a flir. But it will only show up under load.

[@rolandow2]

That was great fun to watch! Almost can't want until our battery dies ;-). How do you figure out what cell you need? Did you google the text that was on it? You said you had only one replacement. Isn't it possible to measure the mah with the charger and then just buy a 18650 with the same capacity?

[@somedumbozzie1539]

Do you have a link to those battery testers?

[@stevenc22]

amzn.to/3JaPH6v

[@asmr_figdet3081]

My Battery has done the exact same as yours did so I guess it also has a faulty cell. If I mail it to you how much would you charge to fix it. Its a silver fish 48 volt 16 amp 750 watt?

[@stevenc22]

Sorry I do this for fun not as a business

[@Inmate533]

This happened to me recently, after a long break from using my bike. I wish I would've known these batteries did crap like this. I would've made sure to charge it every so often.

[@stevenc22]

Your battery can be revived. The $20 balancer I use in another video did a great job rebalancing everything

[@juliorivera870]

E-bikes needs a alternator or else is going to burn a cell at full power

[@Inmate533]

@@stevenc22 Thank you for the suggestion. I’m almost afraid to even attempt to charge it again and would probably just rather buy a new at this point. For the future though, this a great idea and now I know not to let it sit without charging for too long.

[@Inmate533]

@@juliorivera870 I agree.

[@mistryfamly]

My bike turns off while driving. In the middle. Will this video help?

[@stevenc22]

Maybe. Is it turning off because of low battery? If so yes, your battery needs maintenance

[@GiemArendse]

Hi bike cuts off while driving turn ignition off and then on again then just drive a distance again then it cuts out again displayer shows battery fully charge ​@@stevenc22

[@ConradBell-e1x]

Where is the bms located?

[@stevenc22]

Always directly attached to battery, usually inside the battery case.

[@briandelizo4777]

What is the battery tha you use for spot welder

[@stevenc22]

I use a 80c 3s lipo like this one amzn.to/3Aj6nWM

[@Cycle_in_style]

I have a water damage battery, All my cell groups are 4.09 apart from one group at 3.74 do you think I have the same problem as you in this video or maybe I need a new bms? Please help

[@stevenc22]

BMS may be bad. First charge only the low group to match the other groups and then see if the battery stays balanced.

[@bobravenscraft5376]

To avoid bms I build 2 kinds of packs small and Large. My 20ah pack I never fully charge and never drain over 3/4. I never enter the DANGER ⚡ zone ☺️

[@dogfrog9543]

A bit tardy reply but I believe its good practice to charge them to full at least once in a while to balance them out

[@philjoyce7939]

Surprised you got away with ripping off the nickel tabs. I've opened up cells doing that.

[@SemiDad]

Great video. What brand cells?

[@stevenc22]

Those are LG 2600mah batteries

[@SemiDad]

@@stevenc22 thanks. That’s a good brand. Panasonic appear to be the benchmark. What does one cell cost and is it worth it to build your own battery?

[@stevenc22]

@@SemiDad I never buy new cells. New cells are $5-$10 each. I always buy old lime scooter batteries and salvage the cells. I can get good batteries for under $1 each that way. Here is an example of where I buy my batteries www.batteryclearinghouse.com/products/30-cells-high-grade-lg-mh1-10a-3ah-cells-in-10s3p-pack

[@jamesbondaygee]

I got two batteries which were never used and they have just died without even being used. Can you revive these

[@stevenc22]

The BMS probably turn the battery off

[@stevenc22]

Try charging the batteries or try just jumping the batteries with some voltage to wake up the BMS

[@bobravenscraft5376]

I'm glad I don't use bms 2 5series packs 36v. I don't drape the balance leads Over top I go down the sides as a short prevention. Your pack is Bigger and Bulky a little tougher ROCK ON!!!

[@Tonyv1951]

It is perfectly possible for one of those series connected cells you have ,to get out of balance and have more charge than the others. So without a BMS, when that happens, and the only limit to the cell charging is the charger's own max voltage of 42 volts, that that high cell is getting seriously overcharged. It might even overheat and reach thermal runaway temperature and set the whole pack on fire.

[@hendetta]

KZbin to the rescue again. Thx mate!

[@truthseeker6804]

hello, my ebike actually turns on and works as it should, but it cant charge. ive tried another charger so the charger isnt the problem. its 48v 10.4 battery. whats the solution?

[@stevenc22]

One of your cells might be completely out of balance which is why the BMS might not allow it to charge.

[@truthseeker6804]

@@stevenc22 so whats a diy solution you recommend?

[@stevenc22]

You need to measure each cell group with a multimeter to see if the battery is in balance. Same way I did in the video. If one cell group is out of balance you can then manual balance that cell. If everything is in balance, maybe the BMS is faulty.

[@truthseeker6804]

@@stevenc22 ok thank you very much. i would get a mechanic to do that with the tools. worse case i would get a new battery. i appreciate your response.

[@Im1234and5]

Is there any way to repair a e-bike battery, some car batteries can be repaired but what about e-bike batteries. What will be the name of the company that I can ship a e-bike battery to be repaired. And it should be a way to ship a e-bike that to a company that can repair just about all e-bikes ?

[@Cycle_in_style]

Great video mate nice and detailed well done and thank you

[@szolanek]

We had a new bike with battery problem. It gave us half of the expected range and knocked the motor out. The company (Fiido) refused to take it back, sent us a motor and after a controller. Booth of them was out. After 20 km they are finished again. Actually the throttle turns the motor without weight on. With weight shuts out. The battery did some funny thing, as shut off, once it is connected and won't turn back on. Or you couldn't turn it off. 1 000 Eu for fun, supporting poor Singapore. We got middle finger and had to pay 70 Eu for spiking the motor. Never reimbursed. .... We had a Fiido D1 earlier. Great! D11 - stay away! * Had to buy a Chinese. 800, super comfort, double range (same Ah) and flies 2X faster. 2600 km, no issues.

[@bujin5455]

Pretty cool, though it would have been better if you had a test ride there at the end.

[@Rcfishingagadir]

Thanks for the video ...i have the same litokala tester....more than 50mr internel resistance i dont use them.

[@baade6010]

ty for proof that overwelding / soldering can fry cells :D btw when soldering bdsm nodes try doing it in the bridge of nickel between the cells as to not risk overheating cells again :D

[@liudvikas9131]

Thanks mate, great video.

[@jeffreyhammond-kv7gf]

Great video, well done.

[@stevenc22]

Thank you very much!

[@daledollins2839]

I’m looking for someone who does this I need some to diagnose /repair a battery. I live in the Los Angeles area. As of yet, nobody appears to provide that service professionally. Any comments would be welcomed.

[@Poepad]

Enjoyed the video, TIP, never use music for more than 6 secs to use only as transition. If longer use voice over. Good luck.

[@BobSmith-zx4jy]

Is that blue box that you used in the spot welding the 12-volt power supply? It looks like the spot welder is not expensive and works really well!

[@stevenc22]

No bob. That spot welder is power by a high amp lipo battery. That is what you are seeing. I did a review video on it.

[@junalberbucia2337]

I had the same problem ,want this battery to bring in to your shop

[@stevenc22]

No shop. Just my hobby

[@rmzndkv4536]

Mine battery just randomly gives up and it says that its 0% when it is like 97%

[@stevenc22]

It might be out of balance. Try to take a measurement of each cell pack.

[@emme5664]

I have just bought a new 36v battery ,when fully charged ,I get a reading of 40v. Could this be a problem? It is 15.6 ah but with a short range!

[@stevenc22]

No that's about right. A 36v battery uses 10 cells in series. 10 x 4.2v per cell = 42v. The max voltage fully charged should be 42v. 40v is close enough.

[@ademiravdic]

how big of a range?

[@E-BikingAdventures]

36 volts is nominal under normal load. 42 volts is the fully charged open circuit voltage.

[@TestOnes]

With a Dremel Tools i would remove only the faulty battery and replace and charge for the night to see if the pack reach the normal voltage.

[@stevenc22]

Yes but battery won't magically rebalance over night.

[@int53185]

😮i have jumped started dead batteries with a charged battery of the same voltage. It only takes a few seconds.

[@gidbi]

Good video thank you for your work !!

[@looney3125]

Just a quick question , what if it was the bms . Is that possible to fix?

[@stevenc22]

No. If the MOSFETs blow up, just replace bms

[@gerry5029]

They no longer sell my bionx bms.Any alternatives?Cells still good but bms shot.

[@stevenc22]

@@gerry5029 just buy a Daly BMS. That is the only brand I use. Cheap yet solid. Just choose the right amps rating and battery voltage rating.

[@gerry5029]

@@stevenc22 Thanks Steven

[@alekseirepin6870]

Very nice. Want to get the welder. Multimeyr nikel and this testing machine.

[@WhatsUpLand]

May I suggest wearing gloves while handling the battery? I have done some pretty stupid stuff working on batteries and learned from experience. Also, cover portions of the battery with an insulating material like surgeons do. Lastly, better to replace all cells in the parallel group as the bad one degrades its parallel members.

[@D16-i7v]

Anyone in the LA area that be willing to help with a battery like these with the same problem.?

[@w.w77]

My Samsung 48v has just started to charge to only 80% so I'm replacing the BMS. $50 is cheaper than $900 for a full battery

[@edwardk3]

Great content. Thanks!

[@svenhansen9618]

Great video, thank you.

[@smacospasovski5123]

Nice demonstration video, thanks 👍

[@stevenc22]

Thanks

[@s312a22s]

We purchased this Vivi 27.5” electric bike and a Tentaquil 26” electric bike for our 13 and 14 year olds. kzbin.infoUgkxUiL0GnyDjP32RJdd660sP8mZk4CRLTCJ The Vivi was much easier to put together. With the Vivi, there was a video link to assist with assembly which made the process easier to follow (we did put the handlebars on upside down, but it was a quick and easy fix). With the Tentaquil, the assembly was not as simple to follow, but after we messaged the company for an assembly video, it was easier and they did respond quickly. The other major differences were that the Vivi has a grip throttle on the right handle (like a motorcycle) and the Tentaquil has a push throttle that you use your thumb to activate. The monitors were also different, so if you’re looking for something specific in terms of changing the bikes functions, pay attention to what the monitor offers. We were really impressed with the overall quality and functionality of both bikes, but if you’re looking for more power and an easier assembly, definitely go with the Vivi!

[@lilabell2482]

Not for a novice 😊

[@helder4u]

it looks like You are using a cutter as a plier, in such case an effective way to destroy that cutting edge.

[@tomholt259]

You are correct, the tool is a "surface Cutter" and the tips break before a blade chip on good hard ones (gone through 20 pairs or so over the years). I just re-dremel/grind the tips to even tips, though shorter, they last way longer before a tip break.

[@TheDirtyChef]

Thank you for the video.

[@Tsch6373]

Charged my pack last fall, this summer, pack was dead. During an attempt to recharge, the charger got hot within an hour but no charging of the pack. Comments? Pack was kept separate from the bike, indoors.

[@stevenc22]

Make sure the charger is working before you jump to conclusions. Use a multimeter to measure both the charger output and the battery voltage

[@BreakingJP83]

I guess the more important question is would you be willing to repair someone else's battery?

[@swinderby]

My brain went dead two minutes in........

[@williampennjr.4448]

My problem is the charging port, but there are no video's on how to do it safely. There are video that show someone doing it but not how to do it without getting electrocuted when connecting the wires. It seems like they are doing it on completely dead battery's or else there's something they aren't showing, because I get sparks everytime I connect the wires. I've already destroyed 4 ports.

[@stevenc22]

Maybe you have a crappy charger. A good charger waits until the battery is connected before it starts charging.

[@williampennjr.4448]

@@stevenc22 that makes no sense. The voltage is in the battery, not an unconnected charger. No battery is smart enough break the laws of physics.

[@stevenc22]

Are you getting sparks when you plug in the charger?

[@williampennjr.4448]

@@stevenc22 no.

[@stevenc22]

@@williampennjr.4448 Are you getting sparks when you try to attach a charging port? You must be short circuiting something. What kind of charge port are you using?

[@pascalbruyere7108]

Maybe set a good example and use insulation gloves, as indeed 48VDC is indeed dangerous. Or advise to “not do this at home “