Sticking Clutch? How to Service a Shimano XT Derailleur Clutch + A look at a Seized Clutch.

[@BIKEPACKINGcom]

Todays video was supported in part by Surly Bikes. Have you seen the New Ghost Grappler? Check it out here: surlybikes.com/bikes/ghost_grappler?.com&

[@CurtCameron]

My derailleur is about a year old and was sticking on just the lowest couple of gears. I opened it up and it was clean and well-greased already, it was just the adjustment screw that needed to be backed off a half-turn. I didn't know that adjustment even existed - thanks for the video!

[@Tomzzzzzz]

I just went through some diagnostics on my rear XT 12 sp derailleur and discovered that shifting was fine with clutch OFF, but with clutch ON, the derailleur would not downshift from larger to smaller cogs. That lead me to your video. After pulling and greasing my cable to make sure it wasn't hanging on the housing, I retested the shifting and the issue remained. Looks like I will need to remove the derailleur and do a clutch inspection and cleaning. In 30+ years of MTB I have NEVER had a clutch issue on a Shimano rear derailleur until now. This must be something new to Shimano with 12 speed derailleurs (I just went 12 speed a few years ago).

[@mycoolcar]

This is exactly what I need. I recently completed a 3000km bike packing trip and my XT 12 speed stopped shifting into the top few gears during the trip. I stopped at a bike shop and the mechanic told me this was the issue, and to leave the clutch turned off to allow the shifting to operate smoothly. I did this, and it was ok for the remaining 1500km of the trip. Now I can clean it out, hopefully it’s not rusted! My bike had done approximately 4500km when the issue occurred, I’ve never serviced the clutch before now.

[@okatbikes4917]

Worth mentioning that since you're already so deep in there, you might as well take off the cage and de-gunk the tension spring between the body and the cage. It's equally as prone to rust and gunk and will also add to a inconsistent shifting experience.

[@LarsHenning]

^ This!

[@yvanb352]

Ok, how do i do this?

[@GNX157]

I was stunned when he didn’t address the cage shaft and bearing support, and for that matter, the jockey wheels given how much corrosion there was p. And also on the derailleur he rejected, he could have serviced those parts with some scotch brite instead of replacing them.

[@AreaCode865]

@@GNX157I was thinking a dremmel with a polishing head after fine steel wool would smooth it off nicely as well. Still a very useful video 👌

[@outbackwack368]

Thanks! I would absolutely use some o-ring grease on that o-ring too... helps keep water out and keeps the o-ring soft and pliable for longevity...

[@100greenllama]

This is the second time this weekend your vids have saved me 👍👍 all without taking the mech off the bike

[@BIKEPACKINGcom]

Glad I could help

[@jorgecuenca9175]

I wonder if Shimano offers that as a spare....still I tend to keep my GRX clutch disabled...TBH I don't notice any difference or chain slack issues. Thanks for sharing. This is one of my fav Utube channels definitely

[@cycledaily8986]

Thank you! Great video and helpful maintenance routine to check before and attend to after rides, especially when having been through water. Appreciate the attention to detail in reinstalling.

[@colinmcrae7969]

Great Video and thanks for sharing. It's given me the confidence to go and have a look at my mech to fix this issue.

[@RuanOrjustRu]

When I get rust between the band and the round gear, I've used some really high grit sandpaper to polish it back to new, if the roller bearings are fine and still salvageable that is. If those roller bearings are toast, then you're wasting your time trying that, I've never been able to save them when they're busted. I've also found copper slip/ copper grease lasts me much longer, a little dab on the cam gear, and a little bit on the outside of that round gear. I'll probably get roasted for that, but in South Africa, the original greases tend to be either too rare, or too expensive that we have to get creative. We have to import replacement parts here, as they are never in stock at Shimano according to the lbs's, so it's worth rescuing these things before buying a new derailleur or waiting 5 weeks for shipping.

[@evabilo468]

Fantastic video! Thanks you so much; just tuned up my seized clutch with you help. Where did you find the replacement parts? Mine is definitely showing signs of corrosion and due for a replacement soon!

[@LarsHenning]

Thanks Neil! Exactly what I needed!

[@chopchopturtleboy]

4,000 miles on my SRAM XO Eagle drivetrain and zero maintenance required on the derailleur clutch. My new Shimano XT derailleur clutch was is jacked up from day one, and only got worse with each ride, and then I learned about all the problems with the XT clutch and the need for the maintenance you described basically each month, and I ditched it for SRAM AXS. Problem solved.

[@gsum1000]

Never in the history of cycling has there been such an over-engineered and badly implemented solution to such a simple problem as the infamous Shimano clutch. I've had two of these things fail thanks to water ingress either around the seal, the bung over the adjustment port falling off or along the on/off lever - I'm not sure which. In both cases the clutch could not be fixed as the moisture and grit had done too much damage. It shouldn't be necessary to do maintenance work on such a vital component after so few miles. SRAM's sprung pin is far better as it completely removes tension from the chain and is a very simple solution. Thanks for the clear explanation.

[@tedmanner1086]

Shimano ships units with a clutch tension that is too high. I couldn’t get the shifting right - it was slow shifting from cog 4 to 5. I measured 6nm on a new XT. Shimano says 3.5 to 5.5 nm. Backed it down to 4nm and now it works pretty well.

[@aconsola1]

Instead of eyeballing or guessing at proper clutch tension use a t27 bit in a torque wrench on the back of the pulley plate and set it to the proper range when the clutch is engaged, usually 3.5-5.5 NM depending on model.

[@danielhaert8191]

You have to be careful with the little cam with the rectangular hole in it. It has two different sides, so when it's turned 180° its working differently. At least that's what I remember from the last couple of services...

[@LoamerMTB]

Thanks man! This came in clutch.

[@SnootchieBootchies27]

You can definitely extend the life of your clutch by only having it engaged when you need it (downhills). But it's definitely one more thing to fiddle with.

[@coreyreeder3549]

Yeah this might be one I would take to the LBS. I’m still on the JV squad

[@ArisaemaDracontium]

FYI: Those replacement clutch parts are out of stock until the end of April. I have been waiting since October for mine.

[@simonlynch4204]

While you are removing everything, it would be wise to swap the gasket at the same time. This way you make sure you don't end up with water inside. Other tip: Vaseline on the outside of the cap. Just thick enought to seal the cap and repel water and stop it from pushing in.

[@tracywilkins9599]

I just recently had to do that with my GRX 810 clutch. It was full of dust and dry as a bone. For some reason, it doesn't seem like that O-ring does much to actually keep the dust and grime out of there.

[@marcg611]

Lube the o-ring with some waterproof grease and do the same for the clutch adjustment port. And yeah my XT 12sp clutch was bone dry and seizing after 2months of dry riding 🤬 I think they barely lube from factory on some, now I treat as 1-2 times a year maintenance..👍

[@DaveandZach2000]

Is there a daily/weekly maintenance routine to prevent this from happening in the first place?

[@saj78769]

very good video, thank you 👍🏼

[@VeloObscura]

So presumably that little rubber "o-ring" ain't doing it's job properly if there's all that corrosion in there?

[@vasipro]

Thank you!

[@TomCollins-c4h]

What is the orientation of the cam unit? Mine fell out.

[@GeekonaBike]

This must be why I always leave the clutch switched off, I bet I've got 3 or 4 now to add to my 'some day' list :/

[@yvanb352]

Is the axl removable? How do you do that?

[@fonzie988]

Do you adjust it with the clutch turned off?

[@BIKEPACKINGcom]

yes, you will need to turn clutch off to loosen it up.

[@mmeiser2]

So, crazy question, what would happen if you just disable the clutch by removing the clip spring. I had this happen on my custom Mukluk 29x3.25" bikepacking rig and was not suprised to find another bikepacker having the issue. It's all fixed but if it happens again while touring I'm wondering if i can just disable it until done with the trip. Also I am wondering about long term service. I don't really want to have to do this every 750 miles. Perhaps I should just pump the whole cap full of grease. This is gonna be lots of water and possible submersion while bikepacking.

[@chris1275cc]

Usually its enough to switch the clutch off if it "goes bad" but if it does get so bad its effecting shifting even in the off position removing the clip spring would essentially give you a "normal" but weak-ish derailleur. Pumping full of grease might give you a bit of a clutch but I suspect it would just render it useless. You could remove the whole thing and go for a ride to see how it goes.

[@mmeiser2]

@@chris1275cc Having now rebuilt it it is something that could be serviced with a multi-tool and some chain lube on the trail. The hardest part was getting the stuck clutch off. I just don't want to be stranded somewhere while bikepacking because I crossed a creek.

[@jitterspec]

I always overgrease everything. So many vids and manuals talk about "a little bit of grease". I don't subscribe to this. Yes, a little grease is needed for lube, a little more is a moisture barrier. Pumping it full is overkill. A liberal amount on clutch would be good.

[@davidhakimoglu2308]

Excellent thank you \m/

[@HannyDart]

do you also grease the axle and the roller-clutch elements?

[@JoeS97756]

no grease on the axle or roller bearings or you will lose all friction.

[@HannyDart]

@@JoeS97756 thanks fr replying. the axle was already slightly oily/greasy upon first removal, so i just didnt do anything to it :)

[@oktc9712]

My 2 year old E bike has this Clutch thing. I hate it so much I will never , EVER by anything Shimano again

[@nelsonsilva6842]

And this is why you should not wash your MTB. Even better it's stays prettier with mud, imo. Also, never had a single problem with my deore and I almost never wash my bike... On the other hand cheap parts are the way to go on MTB, MTB just destroys everything, so Cheap is the way.

[@bartmullin8018]

A) Considering Shimano considers cyclists 'suckers' and their product quality has declined since the late 80's, the easiest fix is ditching Shi(t)mano and going SRAM. B) Clutches along with the alternating tooth pattern is the best thing since sliced bread; no dropped chains(!). (C) I run a Box 1 rear derailleur and it's an automatic clutch; cannot turn it off (why one would is a head-sctatcher...).

[@jitterspec]

I've been riding sram/campy since grip shift days. Swore off shimano years ago. I bought a bike during covid with shimano 12 sp bc that is all I could get. Best thing that ever happened to me. It's great quality and made in Japan. Campy gave up on Italy and Sram is TW. Come to think of it, seems USA and Japan lead in quality now. I'm riding Shimano and driving Toyota in 2022. Stuff just works. Not to say SRAM is bad, but shimano is easy to setup and maintain and durable as hell. I should have switched from DOT fluid avid to mineral oil years ago. I think credit belongs to shimano for that innovation

[@bartmullin8018]

@@jitterspec Shimano making their 105 Di2 and stratospherically expensive, no thanks (!). For, the way Shimano is going, only the Rich will be able to afford their products and Shimano now is Not the Shimano i knew in the late 80's to almost the early 2000's. I did ditch the Box 1(Clunky shifting!); rode my friend's Bike that had the MicroShift Advent X group-set and had that installed. Way better shifting, far more affordable than either SRAM or Shi(t)mano and it's nicely on the non-blingy side in the appearance department. I have a wider gear range and all the gears i need with ten gears; my bailout gear is 28 by 48t instead of 28 by 46t. The Only Campy I've ever ridden was Old 2 x 5 friction-shift Campy Record (or whatever they called it back in the 70's) on my mom's old Sears (made in Belgium) roadbike when I was a teenager. Nothing to write home about in the shifting department and those 'suicide-shifters', i wonder how many racers crashed thanks to those things. Couldn't ride the bike though, it killed my back(52cm frame).

[@bubak44]

it is not clutch. it is brake.

[@camperp195]

You need to grease the roller bearing with shimano grease Yes,we learned that you have done it wrong!