Stop Your Puppy PULLING In 3 Easy Steps!

[@connormatt7176]

I got a very smart but very independent minded year old retriever beagle mix rescue this page is what i needed

[@jasoncorey]

1 MILLION LET'S GO 💪

[@anonisalsi9521]

Will, this is great! I really enjoy watching your free videos. Have you ever had a puppy where you have trouble finding a level 1 treat for training?

[@TomaszBoro]

I’d like to see a training session with a Shiba Inu. There are a lot of dogs featured on the channel, but I’ve never seen an episode with a Shiba.

[@TheChickenWhispererP]

Hello! We have just got two female Estrela mountain dog puppies and very quickly came to realise these two dogs need a proper training. Is the online training suitable for this breed? They will be living on a farm as a live stock guard dogs when they grow up but we want them to be 'civilised', obedient and well trained as well. Thanks for advice!

[@ZyliceLiddell]

My three year old mini female dachshund is obsessed with my new 12 week old female kitten. She watches her all day and is obsessed with her. She has never met a cat before but has always been fascinated by the ones that she has seen across the road as she barks at them. She sniffs and licks mine but it’s the obsession that is worrying me. She literally obsesses with trying to get to her and she just sits and stares all day. She’s never hurt any wildlife or animals and she has been on the verge of chasing the kitten before and even lunging a bit but has never had any intent to harm. They even fall asleep in close proximity and the dog has licked the kitten a bit but the kitten hisses and growls at her so I certainly will not be leaving them unsupervised together. Thanks for any tips and advice.

[@lashleyweaving1354]

Will first I think I have watched all your vids which I lived closer I just lost my best friend in November of 12 yrs (border collie) but what I would like to ask you I am 88 fairly fit used to walk miles with my dog ? Am I to old to have an elderly dog ? ?

[@shannonpluke3075]

Hi I love your videos I have a 2 month old red bone pup He has been doing good on his sit and stay But today he has decided he don't want to listen is only interested in getting his treat when he wants it I make him go back and try it again but after 10 15 minutes he still won't What can I do to fix this or fix anything am doing wrong Thank you

[@madginger3634]

Will i can't walk stooped over like that to lure my dog

[@erinhiggins2675]

I've seen people use peanut butter on a wooden spoon so they don't have to bend down so much

[@zwenkwiel816]

could you replace the treat with a toy if the dog doesn't respond to treats as well? a co-worker of mine has a lot of trouble with her puppy and I'm trying to help her out but the dog doesn't really respond to me either. don't really have any issues using methods like these on my puppy but they just don't seem to work on hers (well in the few short training sessions I did with it)

[@LeadingPaws]

I thought loring was when you tell stories about ancient lore.

[@Uriahchow]

please do with chow chow cos we are too far to hire you lol

[@silviah2302]

Teaching Sprocker not to pull is a mission impossible 😂

[@MelisaTopçu-w5o]

Okay so when i walk my dog he'll just pull won't care if i have treats or what he's not vaccinated 7 weeks til he's done with vaccinated so only time i'm able to take him to walk is when we visit vet once a week and that one time he just pulls and even when i stop or pull back to give treats he'll turn another way and start pulling again never looks at me what am i supposed to do when we're at home he'll heel no problem if i got a treat but if we outside nothing works

[@josephcampbell1025]

Hi Will,got a Cane Corso pup, 4months,boy named Thanos,do you do one to one chat,I'm in Glasgow & funds are tight,he's a maniac ATM,Help me Please❤,Sorry about Mable❤

[@chrisdaviesguitar]

8 month old pug, he pulls so hard am sure he could pull a laden sled. I have lured and lured, nothing works.

[@jasonharrisdogtraining]

This is not an uncommon problem as the power of food doesn’t really cross the threshold of your front door in a lot of cases. I would suggest you look for a trainer that can help you introduce lead pressure to your dog. In short the dog learns if they are in the right position the lead will be loose. Food luring can be a great to start with puppies but as there drive gets stronger we often need to look at other techniques.

[@jessicaruvalcaba5846]

I’ve heard people withholding food for a time to build hunger could help motivate them once you’re training them consistently

[@artysm7]

When he pulls give him a firm NO stop then turn around in a circle with him... then proceed...keep doing this and eventually he'll realise he'll get where he wants to go quicker if he doesn't pull.

[@steves7271]

I'm not a behaviour expert, but I do have dogs. They are well behaved, well mannered and full of beans. The biggest mistake I see some dog owners making is not being consistent. The poor dogs don't know why sometimes they get in trouble and other times they don't. Set the expectations as early as you can, when they're a puppy, and maintain them. Yes you might miss them when you're out, but in the long run you are saving your dog from a world of anxiety and stress, and yourself money when they don't need those blood pressure and heart meds at 5. Do what's right for your dog, not yourself. Sorry, it's sounds like a rant but it's more of a plea. I love seeing happy dogs and happy dog owners being able to be sociable with other people and animals. I'm so sad when I see folk being dragged along by their dog or dogs that jump and bark at every shadow they see. They must be so stressed.

[@GoogleAccount-pl5lh]

What age puppy can/should you start use a slip leash?

[@Dontcry-y9o]

HELP! Got a 5 month old puppy that walks fine, I have a 3 year old that pulls like mad but even more when I walk them together, I'm really struggling what to do now I've tried loads off different things

[@toddbender3463]

How big is the dog that pulls? Are they big enough to use a prong collar? If they are, get one. Then just practice the lead drills walking a few yards/meters then turning around and giving your dog a quick pop on the neck if they aren't paying attention to the change in direction. Keep turning around and giving the dog a quick chance to notice before popping their collar. Soon it will realize it needs to pay attention to where you are going. Keep repeating this every day for several days or weeks before going on another walk. Once you think they're ready, go on a solo walk without the puppy and if the dog starts to take the lead, turn back around just like in training.

[@Dontcry-y9o]

@toddbender3463 both staffies, ok can that hurt them though?

[@GrandisSilva]

@@Dontcry-y9othe same exercise works fine with a regular collar. You can also just suddenly stop and stand still any time the dog pulls. Just stand there...however long it takes for the dog to relax and look towards you...before continuing on. Then, you might take two steps and the dog pulls again. So you stop again. Consistency is key, and be clear in your movements. Keep your arm in one position when you stop. If the dog keeps pulling, don't raise your arm to let them. You can alternate the turning-around method mentioned in the other response, and the stopping method.

[@toddbender3463]

@Dontcry-y9o prong collars aren't sharp and your dog has a thick neck. The purpose of the prong collar is to apply pressure. You should not be dragging your dog or pulling them. The pop to their collar should be a quick motion enough to make them uncomfortable with the feeling but not to hurt them or continuously apply pressure. If you have a backyard, let your dog play outside and get his energy out playing and then put the collar and leash on him. Start doing the drills in the backyard where he is familiar and won't be as inclined to be pulling and dragging you. This will allow you to start the training without him trying to drag you. The point of the drills are to get him to realize that you are going to randomly change directions at a moments notice and that if he's not paying attention to where you're going, he gets an annoying pop on his neck with this new collar. You're going for a walk and he's just lucky enough to come along. He'll quickly realize that paying attention to your movements is more important than where he wants to go. Then you can slowly work to going out for real walks where his senses will challenge his desire to pay attention to you more and you can further reinforce this desirable behavior of looking at you. The ideal result is: he stays by your side and turns his head to the side every so often to make sure you're not changing direction on him. If he starts to get ahead of you to the point where he definitely isn't going to be able to see you turn around, that's when you turn and start walking the other way and pop his collar. The leash should be long enough to give him about a second's worth of time to realize before he gets popped. If he stays with you and follows your sudden turn around, give him a nice rub on the head while you walk and tell him he's a good boy for paying attention.

[@Dontcry-y9o]

@toddbender3463 thank you so much

[@mimime5376]

I’ve tried everything to get my 4 year old American Bull Terrier mix (adopted) not to pull. He’s so bad I might have to stop the walks and just throw the ball in the backyard. He’s extremely reactive seeing people and dogs. Not what I hoped for.

[@GrandisSilva]

Something you could try is, after playing with him to get out some energy, take him out to your driveway, front lawn, or footpath in front of your house. And just stay there for a while before going back inside. Take treats, toys as appropriate, and just hang out. Loads of praise/reward for looking at you, staying calm, or doing something basic like 'sit'. Don't walk anywhere. Just watch the world for 5-10 minutes then to back inside. Gradually build up time, and a LITTLE bit of distance. Like walk the width of your property, or just to your neighbour. Loads of praise/reward, then back home.

[@GrandisSilva]

You could use a clicker or a marker word like 'Yes!' with a reward. When my dog started to get reactive to other animals on walks when she was young, I taught her 'Yes, good watching!' by trying to catch her in the moment *before* she reacted - to praise her for simply watching. It interrupted her focus and she'd look at me, wondering what she'd done to get praise. But she liked it, and after a while she learnt it and the reactivity faded. A great strategy for pulling on a walk is for you to simply stop dead each and every time they pull. If it takes half an hour to go past one house, that's ok! Just be consistent. Only continue forwards when the lead relaxes. Alternatively, when the dog pulls, abruptly turn and walk in the other direction. Dog pulls again, turn around again (so you end up going back and forth). The dog will begin to get a bit confused and learn that they should pay attention to the person holding the lead.

[@mimime5376]

@@GrandisSilva I haven’t tried a clicker. I always praise him when he does good on walks (doesn’t happen often). I just got a gentle leader but it doesn’t fit right. Might try the no pull harness. Heard it’s better for the bully breeds. 😊

[@GrandisSilva]

@ these tactics will work with a regular collar. The trick is to not let them get away with ANY pulling. And that starts from when you first step outside with them. If they pull the instant they step outside, then you stop on the porch. Go back inside. Lead off, wait for calm, then on again. They have to experience not going *anywhere* unless they're calm. So it's about you feeling prepared to spend a great deal of time standing still, or going back and forth over the same 2 metres. Or just in and out of your front door for half an hour. It's hard, but you yourself have to be very self-disciplined and not relax your expectations for a moment.

[@mimime5376]

@ Took him for a walk tonight. Started out pretty good but on the way home it’s more of the usual pulling. I stopped and pulled him back many times. I will say for a minute he walked normal. I plan to do this all the time but still am open to the no pull harness. He’s the first dog to give me trouble. I had Dobermans and my last was my love a Pit Bull/Boxer mix. No problems at all with either.

[@nickyeggleton6418]

please stop that annoying background music, it detracts from what you are saying, id rather listen just to you.

[@tomathyclarkington6792]

There is one concern I'm having in the early stages with a 12 week old GSD, who is doing incredibly well when focused. When should I be applying these heel principles? Besides the obvious scenarios, what sort of expectations should there be when taking the puppy in the garden to do their business in terms of focus/proximity to me? The same thought also applies when out on a walk in the now earliest stage of exploring the outside world - I wouldn't expect him to be pinned to my side the entire time. Any insights appreciated!

[@GrandisSilva]

In my opinion, it's up to you to decide what a successful walk will look like. Dogs need to have a chance to sniff and investigate and be a dog, so it's about balancing behaviour expectations with their needs and mental development (and happiness). With my dog, I almost always walk her alone, so I decided not to focus on heel (as it wouldn't bother anyone if she swapped sides), but on general calmness and attentiveness on lead. So she goes side to side and gets to sniff whatever she wants, but isn't allowed to pull me or be reactive. And she knows she has to stop and sit before we cross roads. She's 35kg, 2.5yrs, and very easy to walk! I also taught her to toilet in one specific area, as I only have a small garden and wanted an easier job managing it. So early on I would take her straight out to that area before letting her explore on her own, until she learnt to also go there.

[@tomathyclarkington6792]

Using a specific area to toilet before allowing exploring is a great idea. Keeps him close until then and free to roam afterwards on his long line. We've got a pretty big garden with trees living out rurally, so there's loads of interesting sticks, leaves, occasional wildlife etc. he's distracted by. So I've really been struggling with the balance of when to get focus and when to let him be free in a stiumulating environment. It's great to know your girl is a treat to walk though (I'm assuming GSD too at 35kg?). With my boy, I'm not looking for competition heel, though he shall be in many public areas as he grows. He's also going to be a running buddy, go on hikes and will move internationally at some stage, so just trying to make as many right decisions as possible early. Sincerely appreciate the advice and insight :)

[@GrandisSilva]

@@tomathyclarkington6792 my girl is a Bernese! She started pulling on lead when she became a teenager so that's when I really had to put the work in. She's not 'perfect' at all, but I can hold her lead with one finger and she'll respond if I need to check her, and she can walk off-lead in some local quiet back streets because she won't go too far away or cross roads without waiting for permission, and I wait if she needs a good long sniff at something. Knowing she would most likely grow up to be stronger than me, I had to make training decisions to keep both of us safe, ultimately. I wanted walks to be enjoyable, and safe, but was also realistic about my total lack of experience. So have a think about how you want walks and being out in public to be when your dog is mature, and how you fit his mental stimulation around that. Eg. Clara learnt to Sit, and Wait, whenever we needed to cross a road even if there was no traffic. Then I added in a 'Cross' command to further proof her impulse control. So if I walk out without saying 'cross', I expect her to stay put. You could also teach him to sit any time you stop. I taught Clara an 'emergency' stop, which is just to stop and sit whenever I say it, even if I keep walking. Because what if I dropped the lead accidentally, or fell over, or something? I need her to not run off.

[@GrandisSilva]

Another thing I've learnt from watching countless KZbin videos - developing a strong bond with your dog is a really powerful training aid. Whenever he looks at you randomly, of his own choice, praise/reward him. When he approaches you just because he wants to, not because you called, make a big fuss. Help him see that giving you attention and closeness are great things that *always* get rewarded (even just praise/cuddles). If your dog enjoys being near you and looking at you, that will help things like recall and attention on lead, because he already thinks you're pretty great!

[@ellendoherty7816]

I have a 11 month gsd. She is an absolute dream to train...to a point. When I'm training her on the small green directly at the back of my home, she is attentive,comes to left heel,sits,stays,down ,come to right heel. I can let her off lead and no worries, but,when I try walking her with lead and collar or slip lead, she pulls like mad. She comes back to heel but immediately begins to pull when we start walking again. If I let her off lead,and there are any distractions, (on the main field)her recall is almost non existent:that is til I walk off and shout"bye then". She will then come bounding after me 😂. I have to walk her with a headcollar, which works really well. However,she hates it. I am at a loss how to get her to walk to heel, with no pulling on a loose lead. Any advice would be really appreciated.

[@russellzauner]

I'm going to try this with a kitten we got not long ago. It follows shiny things, so maybe it will just let me lead it around with a toy, but it's tiny so I'll put the treat on a stick to lead it if not becuase I 100% can't follow it in that low of a crouch lol.

[@kmiller0402]

I have an Italian Greyhound and it’s 23 Fahrenheit in metro Detroit…..so, his legs are fragile, so he actually gets my fat ass to walk faster. But, I respect your method of training…❤

[@winny4765]

My dog doesnot fall for treats. The moment she does not get the nibble, she looses interest on the spot-she is no fool,as her owner is.😱

[@csillaczako1582]

Same here

[@davide0965]

Prong collar and U turns

[@mimime5376]

@davide0965 Have you seen improvement since using the prong? What breed dog do you have?

[@Witchhouseexotic]

@@mimime5376major improvements for prongs with both my dogs. I have a pit / lab and pitski, both were rescued strays who didn’t know jack about walking on leash. However a lot of people go into using prong collars with no knowledge, thinking the equipment will solve all their problems with magic or sumthin. Research how to use them! But the basics I can give you here; if your dog is a bad puller or doesn’t know how to walk on a leash start walking them on a very short leash where they have nowhere to go but staying at your side. In this position they’ll learn how they have to walk and it also will help them learn to stay out of your space/not run into you as they have to be paying attention to you, being so close. Keep your walks in the lowest stimulating environment possible. If this is inside your house let it be that, or at night or a park that’s typically empty. Set your dog up for success this way. Make sure the prong sits just behind the jaw and keep the leash above their head. If the dog will accept treats while walking bring some of their kibble, a low grade reward, and reward them for walking well, you should set your expectations low for at least a week or two. “Good walking” might just be not pulling your arm out of its socket, not necessarily a loose leash yet. It’s important you do whatever needs to be done to not let your dog always pull on a prong because some still will, and will get desensitized to the prong, rendering it no more useful than a regular collar at behavioral correction. If you can only take a few steps before doing a U-turn and walking the other way to stop pulling, then it has to be that. One dog I trained it took an hour to walk a block because of how clueless he was on leash. Some dogs also pull the least in a halter collar, maybe look into that. Good luck to you.

[@davide0965]

@mimime5376 Yes, now it is much better. I have a 5 y.o. mixed breed recovered from a sort of shelter, 20kg

[@footingball5566]

The U turn or "stop and pop" are the best methods to stop pulling. The treats and all that is to prevent it. I've worked with a bunch of completely untrained dogs that pull. I just have a regular collar or a slip collar/ chain on them and when I see that they are walking themselves and not oaying attention to me, I just stop and wait until they reach the end of the leash and pop enough to turn them around slightly. Then I tell them and show them to come back to my side and repeat. When I can stop and they realize I've stopped and turn around, I reward immediatly (with affection, I don't even use food). You can typically reduce the behaviour by at least 80% or completely remove it in a 40 minute walk. Attitude also matters. The attitude is "where are you going buddy? I just stopped" when they look back at you. I feel like most people who don't think this works for them simply aren't doing it right. You have to time it right and you can't just give a half assed pop, especially with bully breeds and other really tough dogs. They hardly feel a "5/10" pop. You use their momentum against them plus a decent pop. It doesn't hurt like crazy but it if the dog doesn't care about your "correction", it wasn't a correction.

[@Kanudee]

Definitely better for older dogs