Storm Hardening: Whole House Surge Suppression: Why I chose the Siemens FS140

This video gives you a basic breakdown of whole house surge suppression and my general thoughts and mindset behind my purchase of the Siemens FS140 140,000 AMP Level 3 whole house surge. The install was simple.

[@ronbishop5609]

When you installed it the first time, you installed the locknut that goes on the INSIDE of a box on the outside of the FS140. That can NOT be moisture proof, as it gets in between the rubber gasket and the box - that's where the waterproof seal occurs. You should have just tossed it or kept it for a spare.

[@recbo]

To answer your question, yes we can protect a dryer or air handler with strip heat or a SubZero frig with an spd, each with an spd like outdoor mini split units show a green light at night; that's an spd, but we can do better and save money with whole house spd.

[@SwingboyPA]

If you really want to protect against external surges (hello Florida!), use a TYPE 1 surge protector. It is installed BEFORE the panel (I usually install it at the meter). This is a great surge protector (Siemens is a solid brand), but it's TYPE 2, so it allows a surge into your panel. If you really want to be fully protected, get both TYPE 1 and TYPE 2 protection. This is called "cascading" surge protection.

[@recbo]

Siemens has a type 1 and 2, 140k amp spd. Not the "bolt" version.

[@SwingboyPA]

Yeah I'm too lazy to go down to my basement and check the part number, but I have a Siemens type 1 on my system. :-) So far I really like Siemens products. I've had times when an Eaton afci did not trip, but a Siemens did ... So instead of calling it a nuisance trip like so many lazy electricians do, I tracked down the problem and found it (The original electrician had left some faulty connections). Siemens also makes the most inexpensive of the copper bus bar panels. I only install copper bus panels, so seems makes sense. Plus, where I live, the circuit breakers are available everywhere so during the pandemic when there was a shortage at supply houses for everything, I actually never had a problem.

[@marshallsmith9264]

I am getting ready install the Siemens FS140. As you have, I have an outside main meter panel with the ability to perfectly install the protector. I live in central FL (very hot & wet in summer). Couple questions: (1) I have no neutral bar in my panel, just ground - I am assuming I can put both the neutral and ground on the same bar - is that correct? (2) I want the leads to be as short as possible - can I drill the 3/4" hole in the panel so I can hand it out the side, as opposed to hanging it upside down from the bottom punch out plugs? (3) In the install since I am putting the Siemens unit up against the main meter panel, can I just use a single threaded Rigid Threaded Nipple 3/4-InchxCL screwed into the Siemens and a Conduit lock-nut on the inside of the inside of the panel (with maybe some caulk to ensure a tight seal)? Thank you

[@yunikyunik5511]

Zap Cap costs about $8/month from TECO (Tampa Electric), not $20. (I have one, and will be have it uninstalled soon), since I had the FS140 put in. Also, your wire run from the FS140 looks pretty long to the circuit breaker and the neutral/ground. The installation instructions are to keep the wires as short as possible to keep response time < 1 nanosecond. You might want to think about relocating the box underneath so you can move the FS 140 right up against the panel and improve the performance. Mine is right up against the panel on a 20 amp circuit breaker closest to the mains and neutral/ground bar thus the wires lengths are short as can be and in the most optimal location in the panel.

[@recbo]

Eaton and a youtuber, abrelectric, say keep the long wire and twist it like Twisted Pair. Commenter, engineer, says yes do that and add a bunch of wrap around magnets, too. abrelectric TX electrician explains in detail why to just keep 36" wire, twist it.

[@camarosspr]

Open the box to get a look of the installation

[@jonathangreenawalt5724]

You can put rectorseal rsh-50 at the bottom of any receptacle box for the item you plan on having a backup. I have the FS-140 and plan to install the rsh-50 for my sump circuit, hvac and others maybe as local 'type 3" device.

[@gulfstormreadiness2928]

Why would I add an RSH-50 in addition to the FS-140 I would love to know more about why you'd add both?

[@jonathangreenawalt5724]

@@gulfstormreadiness2928 as a backup for one of the most expensive units in the house. If the fs140 gets hit by a surge, your whole house is left vulnerable again while you aquire another fs140 to install as they are designed to burn up if used. If the surge is from powerline failures in a storm or other multiple surges can happen in the same time frame. Think of the fs140 as the main parachute and the rsh50 az a reserve. And if an outdoor unit fails itself the rsh50 might burn up first instead of more expensive fs140. Internal surge protection in that scenario. Its recomended by fs140 to install type 3 surge at main appliances anyway. Rsh50 is just more stoudty than a dedicated surge outlet i feel. Not to mention sumps need gfci protection snd a surge protector like a surge outlet or rs50 needs to be installed closer to the breaker and the gfci is the farthest thing from the breaker.

[@paulraphael]

You could make that installation more effective if you mounted it right next to the panel. Take a close look at the Siemens specs. Every added foot of lead length adds to the reaction time, and adds 175v to the clamping voltage. You've got about 18" more length than you need ... this means that you'll be letting in around 260v more than if you eliminated that length.

[@gordiehattrick]

Right on point @paulraphael! They say to keep the wires as short as possible and try to keep them as straight as possible, avoid 90 degree bends.

[@3er328]

Thought you said this would be short and to the point

[@JRMoritz]

Can you install it in your garage off of a sub-panel?

[@ronwaldon7970]

I see several 220v receptacle surge protectors on line but not from manufacturers I'd buy from, not knowing anything about them. APC does make battery backups with 220v outlets but get ready to drop $1000 plus dollars for one of those.

[@PPrince1566]

Does it need its own empty 20amps breaker? or can it be connected to a breaker with something already plugged in?

[@Pk3_Garage]

Yes, it needs its own double pole 20-amp breaker. They do make a Tandem Breaker. This allows two separate circuits, to be powered by one breaker in the same bus bar slot.

[@lNyx777]

Hello :) my Siemens Fs140 has: 2 Green lights on, red light blinking but there is not any sound. i have a doubt, the red light must be off or blinking? Thank you

[@gulfstormreadiness2928]

If your red light is blinking you need to call Siemens ...its likely not working or has failed. Follow back up here after calling them I'd love to know what caused it.

[@lzh3131]

Can you please update? I have a home warranty and had an electrician that didn’t do a repair correctly. I’m going to have one installed by my local contractor. Thanks.

[@unibrowser1]

I have all of my electronics on APC Ups's in the house. I've also been looking at doing something like this.

[@gulfstormreadiness2928]

This provides superior protection to appliances and HVAC

[@garybulwinkle82]

Seems like every appliance has computers today! To put a big appliance on a ups would get expensive quickly! Also, why don't people have lightning rod anymore? My grandfather was a contractor, and every house he built had a lightning rod!

[@unibrowser1]

@@garybulwinkle82 I looked at the cost to do lightning rod. It's very expensive, time consuming. This was a much simpler and cheaper option. Cost like $300 for the unit and $300 for an electrician to install it

[@laurahall3094]

Lightening rods attract Lightening. Studies were done. There are more strikes.

[@mclaine33]

Is this something you buy yourself? Or is this one of those “rentals” from the power company? FPL has this SurgeShield protector but they want $11 a month for life which seems ridiculous because eventually the amount I pay FPL, it would add up to greater than the cost of this device.

[@Time2Fly17]

You would buy this yourself or can have your local contractor provide your unit.

[@HobbyOrganist]

If you are only renting the house or something it makes sense to pay the $11/mo and stop paying when you move out.

[@SongsBuildABit]

Yes you do need to open the box and show the wiring....Thanks!

[@Time2Fly17]

There are 4 wires. Green/ green and yellow striped wire goes to ground. If unit is insulated it will not have this wire. White to the neutral bar. Black and Red go to the 2 phases from the 20 amp breaker. When installing the breaker you will want to find if your panel is feed from the top or bottom, you will want to install the 20 amp breaker in the first bus locations possible to the main breaker. All wires should be cut to not leave excess wire.

[@gulfstormreadiness2928]

@@Time2Fly17 That's something I've redone since this video is tighten up that distance.

[@Mr.0r]

I live in Tampa, how l can get your service to install one! Thnx

[@gulfstormreadiness2928]

I'm not an electrician, I just installed it myself. There's some installation videos on KZbin

[@camarosspr]

How about outlet breakers?

[@gulfstormreadiness2928]

This unit connects to the 20 AMP double breaker in the box

[@ciscokid2444]

My unlicensed electrician installed directly to the two main wires instead of using double pole 20 breaker is this incorrect because I’m going to ask him to redo it.

[@Pk3_Garage]

It was installed incorrect. The Surge Protector should be connected to a double pole 20-amp breaker, in positions 1 and 3 in the control panel/load center.

[@thomashernandez4027]

Funny the square d homeline one has options for both. Either via 2 pole 50 amp breaker or directly to the main breaker bussing.

[@jaycahow4667]

@@Pk3_Garage According to Siemens it is much less important what breaker position is used and mush more important to keep the wires short and straight for best results.

[@glovedcop69]

How long do these last?

[@gulfstormreadiness2928]

It could be 10 years ...it could be 1 month. There's no real life span because it's subject to how much punishment it goes through. The reason I chose the FS140 is because of it's durability and one of the highest KA ratings on the residential market specific to the South East USA due to the heavy lightning storms etc. The day it blows out, goes red and blares a siren... is the day I know it probably just saved me a major insurance deductible or thousands in electronics behind it.

[@robertlee4172]

When the little green lights go out you'll need to replace it.

[@ronwaldon7970]

Not True. All surge protectors have an expected lifespan due to the electronics used in them. 3 to 7 years typical but a lot of people recommend changing them every 2 years. The Siemens FS140 will disable itself at end of life and give a warning. A lot of people complain about this but the alternative is you may think you are protected in 5 or 10 years but may find out the hard way that you had little or no protection. I have some old APC surge protectors that are probably 20 to 30 years old abd don't give any error but I remember reading a long time ago that APC said you should not use them beyond 5 years I think. Oops I guess mine are just power strips now, lol.

[@jaycahow4667]

@@gulfstormreadiness2928 It does not blare a siren, it sounds an alarm about as loud as a smoke detector battery alarm warning. You need to be fairly close to hear it and even closer if it is mounted in your enclosed breaker box.

[@rickwest2818]

Do you know of a device that protects against a lost neutral between the panel and transformer?

[@sandmandave2008]

What a difference a few months makes. Amazon jacked their price to $569. Looks like a different brand for me.

[@gulfstormreadiness2928]

I saw that....absolutely insane.

[@gulfstormreadiness2928]

They've gone back down

[@Pk3_Garage]

As of today, Amazon has it for $285. We paid $343 back in June.

[@stevemelton3619]

Fyi The spec provides with the Siemans is for a 6 inch cable length. If you use the 36 inch length, the dprc is why worse. Same for 24 inch and do forth. Of you can't mount to box. Make date you teidt the wires uniformly before attaching to the panel. It changes the impedance and the spec isn't near as bad. It took hours to figure out this info including speaking to engineers who tested it. Fact

[@brianbeard3014]

Long wires reduce the protection capacity. The device ideally should enter directly next to the circuit breaker.

[@gulfstormreadiness2928]

Hi Brian, I've yet to do an update...yes I am reconnecting it much shorter.

[@dannyboyd1299]

Lol that short whip wouldn't effect anything 🤣 does it look like it's 5 feet long to you? It's short as hell

[@ronaldnaeyaert3653]

My fs140 wires are 8 inches long and straight. Wires should be as short and straight as possible

[@antonioreyes6962]

Does it get warm?? Does it consume current/power??

[@gulfstormreadiness2928]

With the exception of the LED indicators it shouldn't consume power. With the exception of the above and any additional resistance it brings which is trivial

[@morris47418]

Leviton surge protection receptacles

[@Time2Fly17]

What about them?

[@Time2Fly17]

Lol $50 install, no electrician will ever charge that. The call out fee will be more than that to cover his gas. People that try to beat up a professional tradesman get a hard pass.

[@gulfstormreadiness2928]

I was referencing the install from TECO to put in the Zap cap..... no....an electrician will NOT come out for $50 ... more like a $200+ install.

[@jackflackatari]

What did this video tell us nothing! Open the box up. Looks like it was installed wrong. Needs to be as close to the mains as possible.

[@jaycahow4667]

According to Siemens it is much less important what breaker position is used and mush more important to keep the wires short and straight for best results.

[@jackflackatari]

@@jaycahow4667 Exactly!