Miter saw blade on the table saw- DANGEROUS????

Some say it's dangerous to use a negative hook blade on a table saw. Here's everything you need to know about them...
More links to help you►
Video about blade tooth features: • Why you need more than...
Video about specialty joinery blades: • You're using the wrong...
Video about dado sets: • Why your table saw dad...
Video about setting blade height: • Video
Video about thin kerf vs. full kerf: • Thin-kerf vs. full ker...
Video about aligning a table saw: • Table saw not working ...
The 3 blades I recommend►
Ridge Carbide (Use coupon code SNWJ10): goo.gl/z8TP0k
-40-tooth combo blade: ridgecarbideto...
-80-tooth crosscut/plywood blade: ridgecarbideto...
-24-tooth rip blade: ridgecarbideto...
Specialty blades I recommend►
Ridge Carbide (Use coupon code SNWJ10): goo.gl/z8TP0k
-True flat-kerf joinery blade: ridgecarbideto...
-High quality dado set: ridgecarbideto...
-Miter saw blade (10-inch): ridgecarbideto...
-Miter saw blade (12-inch): ridgecarbideto...
When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us►
Ridge Carbide (Use coupon code SNWJ10): goo.gl/z8TP0k
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[@StumpyNubs]

More links to help you► Video about blade tooth features: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZnuUoYV4nrt-mKs Video about specialty joinery blades: kzbin.info/www/bejne/hou7mGiBdpWDY7M Video about dado sets: kzbin.info/www/bejne/e6mXhpqur8Z1ZrM Video about setting blade height: kzbin.info/www/bejne/gH2bXmSYotlqjrs Video about thin kerf vs. full kerf: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qWG4pYKmh7eUhZY Video about aligning a table saw: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qn_Jp6eJqbCefKM The 3 blades I recommend► Ridge Carbide (Use coupon code SNWJ10): goo.gl/z8TP0k -40-tooth combo blade: ridgecarbidetool.com/saw-blades/ridge-super-blades/table-saw-blades/10-ts2000-super-blade.html -80-tooth crosscut/plywood blade:ridgecarbidetool.com/collections/miter-radial-saw-blades/products/10-x-80-ar-4-1-5-hk-087-115-rs1000-super-miter -24-tooth rip blade: ridgecarbidetool.com/saw-blades/ridge-super-blades/table-saw-blades/10-ts2000-full-kerf-rip-super-blade.html Specialty blades I recommend► Ridge Carbide (Use coupon code SNWJ10): goo.gl/z8TP0k -True flat-kerf joinery blade: ridgecarbidetool.com/saw-blades/ridge-super-blades/box-joint-finger-joint-blades/10-ts2000-box-joint.html -High quality dado set: ridgecarbidetool.com/dado-sets/8-dado-master.html -Miter saw blade (10-inch): ridgecarbidetool.com/collections/miter-radial-saw-blades/products/10-x-80-ar-4-1-5-hk-087-115-rs1000-super-miter -Miter saw blade (12-inch): ridgecarbidetool.com/saw-blades/ridge-super-blades/miter-radial-track-saw/12-rs1000-super-blade-80-tooth-5-8-arbor.html When you use this link to visit our sponsor, you support us► Ridge Carbide (Use coupon code SNWJ10): goo.gl/z8TP0k

[@JoelCHopper]

Very nice explanation. I will keep this in mind next time I use my saw.

[@brucewilliamsstudio4932]

In the past few days I've had several kickbacks and/or binding with my Makita track saw while cutting plywood. I ended up placing a 16p nail in the end already cut that had closed up, but I'm surprised that plywood is behaving like this. It should be dimensionally stable, but it isn't. I noticed that this 3/4" plywood was manufactured in Chile, but I don't know if that's relevant. Any thoughts on this, or on how to prevent kickback with a track saw?

[@richardgroom988]

Well explained in layman's terms After spending 40 years making and repairing saw blades that's the best explanation I've heard about hook angles on saw blades Thank you

[@jimclark6256]

78 years old and have been using all 3 types of saws for over 50 years , have just learned something important about blades. Always used the blade which worked best on whichever saw. The most important thing is always let the tool do the work without forcing the wood. Great video.

[@gizmogremlin1872]

You sure dont F around when you decide to settle an argument. 👍

[@WarrenPostma]

@@aerialrescuesolutions3277 Mr Nubs is VERY Impressive. I'm 50 and I've been doing some things wrong for 30 years. I learned some stuff today.

[@dpbjlee83]

The TROLLS should have learned by know that James does his homework before sharing the information. But some people like to complain to make themselves look smart but it does just the opposite. James KEEP BEING YOU my friend.

[@jamesdobney]

Your really well-produced and well-researched videos are much appreciated. Old dogs ... new tricks.

[@heidbumbee1689]

Interesting and informative. I had no idea that this was a thing. The more I learn the more I realise how much I don't know.

[@djsnowman06]

Dunning-Kruger effect always fascinated me. When I get cocky about my abilities, it usually springs to mind and levels me out again. NDT also explained it something like this on StarTalk: knowledge is like a circle. If the area is how much you know, the perimeter is how much you realize you don't know. You can't increase the size of one without increasing the size of the other.

[@WiscoWoodShop]

Another day of great education from James. While some things have changed over the last two or three years, your commitment to our education has not waned. We’re grateful!

[@Yawles]

Awww, darn it! There you went and done did it again! Taught us about our craft, without making use of that dinosaur book - the thesaurus. You have a great skill in communicating. Thanks, James

[@stevestikihutable]

This video is why I keep coming back, I’m a 40 year carpenter and this taught me something. Thanks

[@ibrahimwehbe1153]

At this stage I push the like bottom before I listen to your videos I know for sure you’re going to cover the topic perfectly 🙏👏

[@frosiaburlakova7732]

After watching so many useless project videos, this channel is a breath of fresh air. Thank you for another informative video and especially the links to other table saw videos. Apparently, I have been setting my table saw blade too low.

[@louislandi938]

James, I would never bet against anything you say. The level of your knowledge makes me realize how little I know.

[@rorymacintosh6691]

Wow, talk about thorough! James would have been a truly frightening public prosecutor. Fortunately for all of us, he’s into woodworking. Thanks!

[@stuartkorte1642]

Didn’t realize there was positive and negative blades. Thanks. Learned something important today.

[@cbarnettcti123]

Your calm, well-cadenced, clear delivery is a pleasure to listen to. It's a relief from hyper excited you tube presenters. I bought the three blades you recommended, using the code. This basically gave me free shipping.

[@zeek2636]

I’ve been woodworking for years and had a basic understanding of blades, I thought. Thanks for the comprehensive info. This is the kind of advice that will make any one a better craftsman.

[@biglouie69]

Excellent video. Even after 50 years of making sawdust, there is still much to learn. Thanks!

[@thomasgreen8532]

I spent a lot of years building everything from Dog houses to mansions, none of this will prepare you to do fine woodworking. my skills are fine but my knowledge of saw blades is sorely lacking, That was the best explanation I have heard yet, thanks for the info. Time to add a few more saw blades to my collection.

[@DKWalser]

Thanks for taking the time to explain the 'why' of your recommendation, rather than simply making a recommendation. Understanding why helps (most of) us remember the how.

[@troybayham5723]

Great info. I always maintained that I want the bottom of the gullet even with the top of the wood so that the dust clear more easily. Never really thought about how that impacted my cut. Appreciate you taking the time to explain in such detail as always. I will definitely change my improper method going forward.

[@mark64286]

@@Tensquaremetreworkshop I was with Troy on this one. It sounds so obvious when you say it like that though.....

[@DejitaruJin]

I always assumed miter and table saw blades could be used interchangeably, just because... well, Home Depot doesn't distinguish between the two. I'm glad to know the details now, and I even understand better how to use my circular saw as a result.

[@janstenvall2224]

Once again you adressed a subject based on physics, experience and common sense AND explained it in an understandable and clear way. Thank you.

[@markmurdocca2456]

WOW! Your videos continue to blow me away with the valuable information you provide, explained in a very sensible, easily explained manner.

[@blacknorce]

I really like way you clearly and concisely explain how most other people are wrong about a topic. I have learned alot from watching your videos. Keep up the good work and don't let the negative Nancy's bring you down.

[@kevinr1704]

I know this is a little older video but, my 12" Diablo blade shows a miter saw and sliding miter saw on the package. If you look the same blade up on their website it plainly says for table saw also. Thanks for another great and very informative video and setting people straight.

[@billqqq]

Right on the money, sir. Growing up, dad only had a RAS in his shop. I grew up learning how to safely rip on a RAS, which is an operation not for the timid. Using the right blade, feeding from the right end, and keeping your focus on the task was imperative.

[@tobiasfarnsworth3232]

My dad had one that he used for everything. It kicked so hard when you hit the switch, it was terrifying 😂

[@GraemePayne1967Marine]

I've been using a radial arm saw for more than 30 years and only heard of negative hook blades a few years ago. So the positive hook was the reason my pulling arm was always braced to push the carriage back as well. Thanks for clarity of fact-based information!

[@21thTek]

Your videos are the most professional, original and useful. Thanks to your knowledge, now we use tablesaws and mitter ssaw in a better and safer way, thanks so much Stumpy Nubs !! ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️ ⭐️

[@purenight77]

This video is amazing, I've been looking for this exact answer for weeks now, with only finding forums with no clear answer. Thanks, Stumpy Nubs

[@makermark67]

More in-depth, great information in easy to understand presentation. Hopefully, that clears things up for whoever had the issues. Keep up the great work! Thanks!

[@joeliebhauser816]

Glad to have found your site. So much goofy info out there! As soon as a presenter starts spouting ‘facts’ I know are bogus, I move on. After 40+ years I am still learning, and all you have said in this video that I already know is 100%. And, you taught me some new stuff that I can trust. Thank you!

[@philipellis1865]

Well 74 and learned something new again thanks 👍

[@raymondfisher5552]

James, this is great information and your research-backed method of presenting it bolsters what you're saying. Thank you for your effort.

[@williamsmith9026]

No doubt.

[@scottmorgan5370]

A little off the subject, but I don't know where else to put this comment. I believe a series of videos teaching us "tyro novices" how to adjust and TUNE our machines would be very beneficial. I have older machines that I am restoring, but I struggle with the idea of tuning them once they are finished. I'm referring to the more common machines such as Table, Miter, and Radial Arm Saws in particular. I do realize that you may have already produced such videos, but I don't see them.

[@kashel83]

Hi James, I just wanted to thank you for ALL your amazing videos. I started woodworking very recently and you have helped me learn a lot, the way you explain things shows how big of an expert you are, I'm really happy I found this channel, even if I wasn't into woodworking, I'd still watch your videos, they're that good. Thanks again

[@TaylerMade]

hi fernando, as a retired furniture maker i can attest that the information stumpy provides is sound. as a newbie be very careful about the "experts" in youtube. there are some very good content providers and an awful lot who will steer you wrong. see also paul sellers as his content is also excellent.

[@kashel83]

@@TaylerMade Thanks! I'll look him up right now

[@Sillyturner]

I use a Non-Ferrous metal blade on my table saw quite regularly for cutting aluminum. It has a -7• hook angle. This blade also works very well on plastics like acrylic, Polly carbonate, plexiglass etc with virtually no chip out.

[@Myopicvisions]

Great video! There are a lot of myths like this in woodworking. The router has so many of them

[@emm_arr]

This is what the internet is made for. Great stuff, as always.

[@wizardwillbonner]

Thanks for the tutorial on saw blades. I always had a fear of tablesaws since witnessing a devastating accident in shop class many years ago. So consequently all my cutting was done with a skill saw or by hand. By watching videos of all sorts I'm getting over the butt pucker of a table saw starting up. Now I have a good idea of setting up the blade. Thank you again.

[@robandsharonseddon-smith5216]

I enjoy the thorough discussions of this sort of issue. It would be awesome to see you discuss more of the engineering and mechanics of woodworking, including such as stock dimensions, joint selection etc.

[@ricknichols4966]

Absolutely must see video. So expertly explained and left me with no further questions on the matter. Well done!

[@loueubank4399]

Another great video. You support your point of view with facts and reinforce the importance of the facts for your viewers. Another confusion I have had for years has been resolved!

[@beence4917]

A number of years ago, at a woodworking show, I decided to treat myself to a good table saw blade and bought a Ridge Carbide for about 100 bucks. They are awesome - cut smooth and stay sharp a long time. I still kick myself for all the years I was using el cheapo crap blades.

[@jimpalmer1944]

Learn something every time I watch one of your videos. I have always been cautious about using a blade that is labeled for miter saw on my table saw or vice-versa. Now I know why it is a good idea. But, with this lesson I know when it is safe to make an exception.

[@jlh5995]

Hey James, thanks for taking the time and effort to produce this great instructions on the use of negative hook vs. positive hook blades for table and miter saws.

[@Antony_blr]

One of the best explanations out there. Hats off to you!!!

[@iancrossley6637]

A negative rake blade is a must when cutting aluminum too. The last time I was at the lumber yard having some boards cut to fit my van I noticed his radial arm saw was negative rake. No climbing was noticed.

[@MintStiles]

Why is a negative angle more appropriate for aluminum?

[@huejanus5505]

@@MintStiles Cuts it with much less chatter and produces a smoother cut, you don’t want a blade grabbing a piece of aluminum. I’ve installed countless aluminum railings and posts in exterior applications, negative tooth angle and a slow feed rate is a must.

[@MintStiles]

@@huejanus5505 thanks, that's nice to know. I just use a high tooth count blade normally with a fairly mild blade geometry. I've never thought about negative rake, which to be honest, scares me a bit to use. Any Brand recommendations?

[@ChrisBloom]

I feel like an idiot. I've been using a table saw most of my life but never considered the height of the blade (above the surface) having an impact on splintering, and cut quality. Thank you for teaching me something today. Your no-nonsense explanation and illustrations are very helpful.

[@zapa1pnt]

James, thank you for a very clear explanation, on something I didn't even know I had a question about. Thanks, also, for the quick tutoring on blade height, something I have had wrong for years.

[@ericrickert3045]

This explanation was valuable and now I have a good understanding of different blades. I have one blade for my table saw--the one it came with. Don't know how many teeth or if it is negative or positive on the angle. I'm going to check and educate myself on my own equipment.

[@rogerwhoareyou]

Excellent info (as always) to set the record straight. When I see that you've posted a new video I always watch it because I know I'll always get something good from it. Even if I think I know the topic I always come away with some new piece of info that I didn't really know. Keep up the great videos James and think you again.

[@michaelsanford8020]

Well, let's see, should I listen to some random commenter for advice, or a man who has been time tested and proven as a master Craftsman? Hmmm....let me think on that for about half a nano second....DUH! Im gonna listen to the Master Craftsman and not some random commenter that either had a bad experience or listened to someone who had a bad experience. And likely had that bad experience because they did something that was NOT recommended in the first place. Love all your videos. You literally saved my life with the ones about that one tool and so many other tips you have given that have helped me to learn more about the craft. Not only in how to do things but WHY things are the way they are.

[@Psychlist1972]

I have a Felder saw that takes apx 12" blade. I have their aluminum cutting blade, which is 72 teeth and 5 degree negative hook, designed for and sold explicitly for these saws. It's for exactly the reasons you state here, for helping to help manage the speed of the cut and maximize blade life (less chance of chipping teeth). I still have a kickback scar from my old saw from around 15 years back. Bad position on my part and a crappy old thin splitter (not a riving knife)that didn't really do the job and wouldn't align correctly to the right side of the blade in any case. It glanced off me enough to hurt like mad, and then went into a cabinet. I kept it around for a while as a reminder. A couple inches further over and I probably wouldn't have my two lovely children. :)

[@NathanNostaw]

Thanks for the very good points and advice. I hope this video is used to quiet some of those ignorant arguments online. I saw a radial-arm saw for sale the other day, fitted with a very aggressive low tooth count blade. It wouldn't just be terrifying, but super dangerous. The owner used to cut thick rubber mats with it. Crazy dangerous.

[@matthewrose8976]

Thank you for an excellent discussion on the height of the blade and its effect on the cut quality!

[@eddiestipe2009]

Thank you for the information. I learned so much today for your video please keep them coming. I have a radial arm saw, a chopsaw and a table saw-in my shop. The only blade that I enter change is the 7 1/2 inch Circular saw blade that I use on the table-saw. This is because it has 1/8 Kurt.

[@vikassm]

Big Yes, Beautifully explained! Also factor in the big improvement in cut quality with a high tooth count negative rake blade. The finish is almost always glue ready, very few minor ridges, almost no tear out, and a flat top cut (with hltcg blades only) so those few seconds through a cut are well worth it in my opinion. I leave the 120 teeth negative rake triple chip ground (alu) blade on my saw all the time. It's slower than other blades, but faster than the time it takes to change between blades. 80% of my work is hard plywood or shitty melamine, so the few times I cut real lumber I just let it take its time.

[@markproulx1472]

Another super useful video. I really appreciate the recommendation regarding tooth exposure above the workpiece on the table saw.

[@Studio69Fan]

Hamilton for President! Fantastic job at presenting the information without name calling. Researched and concisely delivered. Now, grab yourself a cold one, cause you’ve earned it my friend!👍🇺🇸

[@gordroberts53]

Hi James. I learn something of value every time I visit your channel. This was excellent start to finish. Thanks always for sharing and stay safe!

[@wdtaut5650]

Thank you, stump. Best explanation I have seen on tooth rake and blade height.

[@markpalmer3071]

I never knew there was so much into blade design. I've got three different blades for my table saw and it always amazes me the difference in sound when I install the 24t rip blade.

[@beardeddragonwood]

Thank you for this information! Well presented with no fuss. Exactly what I love about this channel.

[@HepauDK]

Thank you for yet another great explanation. One might argue that a sliding mitre saw actually strike the wood upwards from the bottom, slightly lifting the board (or whatever you are cutting). That's why I usually clamp whatever I am cutting.

[@StumpyNubs]

If you pull forward, then lower the blade into the wood and cut by pushing backward (as CSMS are intended to be used) then you will, theoretically get a lifting motion, especially with an aggressive positive hook. That's another reason to use a negative hook blade on a CSMS.

[@LarryTait1]

Great discussion. I looked and, indeed, my Freud table saw blades with more than 48 teeth are negative hook.

[@garycassady746]

Wow, I love your approach to any perceived problem!!

[@patrickweckermann9121]

Only scenario I could see this being an "issue" is if you are doing multiple things wrong, ie your blade height is too low and you're using one of those push sticks that only applies downward force at the back of the workpiece.

[@dennisd5776]

Thank you for providing a clear and concise explanation. Right on>

[@johne.osmaniii7217]

Wow,I just started watching your vids about a month or so ago, ... I truly enjoy listening to your commentary about the reasons, & purpose of various types of shop tooling, especially when you tell us in no bull squat terminology about the how, why, & when to use specifically designed tooling for the best production usage out of each, & every facet of tool life, ... this argument, like many others, is based on reality, not necessarily on “perceived” ideas of how a tool, such as this example of the negative, versus positive angle of the saw tooth, impacting a workpiece, ... tossing the preconceived notion that this type of saw blade is better, or worse for a safety aspect of cutting wood, ... Changing any angle of attack, on a workpiece should (always), ... be done with the aspect of safety in mind, but seems ridiculous of whether or not gravity, by nature of its content, would affect the purpose of the safety viewpoint aspect, ... the attack of a blade, either in a position, of being fed through a saw, is definitively displayed in the picture showing the 4 teeth actually confronting the wood, ... is, in the picture, attacking the intended cut, from the left, not from above, or from below, which is directly perpendicular from the stated reasoning of attempting to lift, or push down, upon the workpiece, ... A very good tutorial, ... so thanks for the information of how to cease any argument over “perceived” notions, of safety protocols, ...

[@petec6690]

This video I learned a whole lot about blades. I always thought that a blade was a blade. I now know more by a whole factor of 10. Thank you. I will now be even safer at my burgeoning wood hobby. I'm sure you must have something on rip blades (not cross cut). Can't wait till I find it. Subscribed!

[@ToolMetrix]

Very interesting. Great video, James. Cheers, Paul

[@markhedquist9597]

This was VERY informative. And much needed in my case. I wanna use some choice words in reference to myself, but will refrain. I've been a carpenter for a couple decades and an aspiring woodworker for a couple years and had no clue about this. Clearly, I need to learn some basics. Thanks for this video!

[@azmike1956]

Very concise & useful data! Always take an objective view of what you're about to do. Your 1st cut should tell you if you're on the right track & adjust from there. Nobody wants to fight a workpiece that's being lifted off of the table!(exceptions noted).

[@steveroufas1938]

My table saw blade, FOR MELAMINE CUTS, is a negative hook tooth. -6 degrees, ATB grind and the teeth are set at 25 degree angles. Dimar Canada, perhaps the best up here in Canada. I know the Forrest blades, for melamine, are at a 40 degree angle grind. Negative hook angled blades (for the table saw) are slow-feed-material blades, and the blade is to be set low in height with the teeth basically just above your work material. High bevel blades with neg hooks produce clean cuts on both sides of your melamine work piece, and the negative hook action is to, theoretically, resemble a curved samurai sword slicing through material. Positive hooks are aggressive cutting and the blade is raised higher above the work material. Now, back to watching the vid....

[@joshgay2385]

Thank you James for your concise deep dives into subjects!

[@rogartcooke]

Very informative, an excellent explanation. Your channel never ceases to peak my interest and often teaches me something new :)

[@markforrestsm]

Another great video James and a great learning opportunity. I had always thought to only just clear the piece of wood I was cutting.. New behaviour learned! Trusting you and yur family are all still well. Regards, Mark (South Africa)

[@bevanstuart9013]

Thank you for a very straightforward explanation of this topic.

[@osvaldocristo]

Thank you, James. I already had that perception (perhaps "Engineer intuition") but I never went deeper to ellaborate it. Very good job!

[@chrisingram7277]

40 years ago while I was apprenticing for carpentry, I was taught the blade teeth should extend about a 1/4" above the wood surface, the reason given was you couldn't cut your finger off completely, it was an easy rule to remember. I'm glad to hear it also falls into the manufacture's design parameters.

[@P_RO_]

I've always used a similar 'rule' but for different reasons. I go for having half of the cutting tooth protruding because then the tooth is fully engaged with the workpiece and in never leaving it there is a cleaner cut. In rough fast ripping I have a lot of the blade out so that the teeth can gain a better 'bite' into the workpiece. As far as safety, well it's always your own responsibility and always your own fault if you get hurt. If you're not smarter than the tool you're using then you don't need to be using it. If you rely on something else to provide for or aid your safety you are going to get hurt when, not if, it goes wrong. Think about not only what you want to do and how to do it, but think of every possible way it can go wrong, and only after that do you begin. You do this every time and at every step in the process, and you will begin to see dangers you had missed earlier which reminds you to never omit this step.

[@StumpyNubs]

If the blade guard is on, what difference does it make how much tooth is above the wood? :)

[@StumpyNubs]

Next time you get some scorching in walnut or cherry or maple, raise the blade until a full tooth protrudes from the top. You'll see the difference.

[@P_RO_]

@@StumpyNubs I'll try that but it hasn't been an issue for me. I either do not have those cuts exposed, or I work them by hand with a sanding block for ultimate smoothness. Neither my equipment (or myself anymore) is capable of such a perfect cut for it to be exposed as-is!

[@P_RO_]

@@StumpyNubs I don't use a blade guard on my table saw. Not only does it hide a danger, but it can lead to thinking that it might save you from that danger when it might not. I prefer knowing exactly what and where the danger is so I will also know to keep a minimum distance from it or more. Use it if you like, but know that it introduces as many problems as it solves. The real determinant of blade height should be the results of your cut, and that will not vary with or without a blade guard. Two entirely different things.

[@J.A.Smith2397]

You always do such a great job illustrating (great pics and diagrams) and breaking down things and I am one of the people who've really dove into woodworking and truly love it but started from the bottom tool wise and just construction knowledge and tks a lot to STUMPY I've gained a lot of amazing knowledge and intro into much better tooling! I truly thank you for what n how ya do brother

[@GT40Nut]

This is something I picked up working in a plastics fabracation shop. Any time you're cutting plastics you should always use a blade with a negitive hook. Most plastics will shatter if you don't.

[@criswilson1140]

I honestly didn't know they made 10" miter saws, all that I have ever used were 12". So along with learning about hook angle, I learned something new about a saw. Thanks for that great explanation.

[@emmabingham544]

they make 8" too. I've been looking at buy 'A Mitre Saw' and stumbled with the size options.

[@thenotsoguitarguy9429]

My slider is a 10". In my shop, the available width of cut was more important than the available depth of cut. Cost savings on the 10" made it a no brainer.

[@heystarfish100]

Appreciate all the information and most importantly the reasoning behind it.

[@maniyan_wanagi]

Thank for your well-considered commentary on this science.

[@mbarton98]

Thanks for the logical explanation. I only question the link before seeing this video, because Ridge Carbide Tool does not mention this 80 tooth blade for tablesaws. Perhaps you could influence them to update their website to show this blade could be used with a tablesaw.

[@karll.masoner6918]

I love how people with “no skin in the game” and no engineering degree usually are the ones most willing to offer their opinion on how things work. I used to have a friend who felt a circular saw blade should always be up as high as possible. I can’t remember his logic on this, but it had something to do with band saws, hand saws, and other types of blades. I haven’t seen him in several years . It’s been even longer since a saw all five fingers on his right hand. He still has the strongest part of him, his opinions.

[@flumpyhumpy]

Dunning-Kruger effect.

[@darinnetherland3466]

Karl L. Masoner one of the benefits of connecting with hobbyists is also a danger: all the advice. I recently heard Marc Spagnolo talk about when he was researching and asking around about steam bending, and was shocked by not only all the bad info people gave, but also how people who knew well who he was talk to him like he was a total novice to Woodworking. Some people just get very full of themselves and think their opinion, often without experience, is gospel.

[@karll.masoner6918]

Yep. Sometimes I think it’s because they have anonymity on the web, so they feel they can say anything. Then I listen to my family members and I think, “maybe not.” Some people are blessed with universal “knowledge” and have a calling to vomit their “knowledge” on anyone who can’t escape.

[@917Stefano]

@@flumpyhumpy I never heard of this effect, so I had to look it up just now. After reading about it, it seems to me this is something I have observed before, but I never knew there was a name for it. Anyway, thanks for causing me to learn something new today!

[@joeolejar]

I survived use of an RAS for 43 years and finally got a negative rake angle blade. I'll never go back.

[@paulbertsch7540]

Great video James. Best info I've seen you do. You're always entertaining. I like your longer vids. Most are too short and don't go far enough. Thx.

[@StumpyNubs]

29 out of our last 50 videos were longer than 5 minutes. Many were much longer.

[@brians3723]

Thank you. Great info I had not heard anywhere else.

[@seabreezecoffeeroasters7994]

While an older video slightly negative tooth blades on Circular or Track saws are great for Acrylics or even Aluminium. For Plys and Veneers I still use a fine tooth slightly Positive toothed blades on my Tracksaw.

[@perlnut]

Great explanation and visuals.

[@cdouglas1942]

Guess I better go look at my saw blades to see what Im using. I do have a Ridge and a Forrestt I alternate between when one is getting sharpened. Been impressed with Ridge.

[@peterstenabaugh3041]

Great information Stumpy it all makes good sense.

[@pawpawstew]

Great info, James. Thanks. By the way, I like the corner shop setting. I remember you talking about it when you were laying out your new shop. I sure would like to see some new full-length build videos shot in there. I'm still looking for that jig built to pick up your wallet when you drop it. (Ref Router lift video).

[@belladonnaRoot]

I think the hook angle might slightly change how the wood kicks during a stall situation; where you have too high of feed rate. But that is not kickback; which generally is caused when a piece rubs/jams against the side of the teeth/blade. The angle of the teeth isn't going to affect usual kickback events; both will shoot jammed pieces of wood equally well once their teeth dig in. If you're overfeeding your table saw....well then no blade is going to keep you safe.

[@markeisenlord3135]

Very informative! Learn something new every day.

[@timdouglass9831]

Worth noting that the Ridge Carbide listing for the 80 tooth blade only lists miter saws and radial arm saws. They don't list any fine cut blades for the table saw.

[@StumpyNubs]

They don't place recommended uses on their website. They merely have it in the miter saw category because they are very popular on miter saws. That is not a way of saying they are only for miter saws. As I said in the video, I personally spoke to them and they sell and recommend them for the uses I described.

[@paulstephenson783]

Well I don't like to admit it but I've learned something new today thank you so much

[@MrMarkpeggy]

Thanks for the great video James. I always learn something or get reminded of something important.