Bad featherboard advice from an expert?

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[@chipsterb4946]

I called Bow Products because I had a couple of questions about those foam featherboards. The owner/inventor answered the phone and talked with me, then sent me photos of some use situations and upcoming products. Just wanted to give a shout out to a friendly, US business.

[@unclesunbro1577]

I appreciate the amount of attention you give to safety and potential safety issues. I have made some dangerous mistakes and gotten lucky. Haven't had a close call in the two years I have been watching your channel. I have a machine design degree and am impressed with every design of yours that I have seen. I look forward to your videos and learn a ton. Thank you for the truly impressive content.

[@cristianojax4995]

InstaBlaster...

[@owendolan3663]

Owen here : James, I'm a new woodworker. (82 yrs young). I appreciate your down to earth explanations . I'm also a hobby organist ( 5 yrs. now ) and would be out of luck by doing something dumb at the table saw. A fast end to my music and wood working aspirations. The featherboard pro seem like a good product when used properly. Thanks for explaining how to best use. Cheers, Owen

[@jdsgotninelives]

More power to you, Owen ;-)

[@robertlitman2661]

Well said. Just keep in mind that a featherboard that pushes horizontally towards the fence must be in front of the blade, but there is no such limitation for a featherboard that pushes vertically down towards the table along the fence. So long as the force is strictly down on the workpiece between the blade and fence, and does not limit the free motion of the cutoff, you can absolutely have featherboards placed wherever it works best for you. Heck, you could have three, with one before, one beside and one after the blade. Of course, that only works if they don't get in the way of your push sticks. And yes, I own those foam Feather Pro devices. They are by far, THE BEST featherboard I have ever used, and I will not switch back to another option. The foam has a stronger grab than anything else I have seen, yet is absolutely gentler to the wood than everything else on the market. There really is no competition, and I highly recommend them! That being said, I went the cheap route and bought their $15 foam refill kit, and fit the foam pieces into 3/4" plywood that I cut on the scroll saw to their special profile by tracing the foam. I attach that to my iron table using a 1200lb magnetic lock powered by a 12V drill battery.

[@dagnt8145]

I have worked in woodwork shops all my adult life, this man speaks the truth. Many thanx

[@milesdowning9257]

WOW! this guy, 40 years working wood, LEARNED SOMETHING!!!! Thanks.

[@EM1473]

As a new woodworker I just wanted to say how much I appreciate your videos!

[@watermain48]

Thanks James. I consider the source when it comes to advice. You, I trust.

[@maniyan_wanagi]

Thank you for your attention to safety, and explaining the details. I'm teaching a young man what I know, and sometimes I don't know as much as I'd like to pass on to him - you're a big help!

[@BluuurghAg9]

This is brilliant, I am about to make myself a little routertable and was looking into featherboards for this little project that I have coming up. This is really helpful and eventhough unintentional, perfectly timed! Thanks!

[@kathywinn6869]

Thank you for this informative video that is quite helpful for us who might be rather new to using a table saw. Every little bit of safety information is priceless!

[@Yawles]

Thank you, Professor Hamilton! Your educational skills and presentation is among the best, if not THE BEST! I look forward to your next class...

[@markprather775]

James, I'm really impressed by your tips, and safety measures you provide for us. I also love you new tools reviews. I'm about to start making a set of cabinets, for my workbench, so your tips and tricks are very much appreciated. Please, keep 'em coming!!!

[@johnaurand4090]

Thanks for the advance. I have some feather boards but really didn't know how to use them. They came with my Rockler rotor table. I never used them before. Thanks again.

[@conradp.woodturning972]

Very informative! I've never used a table saw myself, but I definitely understand how putting featherboards beside or behind the blade can increase chances of kickback. The scary thing is I've seen so many people doing that on youtube! Thank you Stumpy for the great content :)

[@TheRockeye007]

i just love your videos stumppy!keep them coming brother!

[@WJR1965]

I’ve watched this channel for years and it has repeatedly brought my attention to potential safety hazards which I was unaware of (the danger of using chainsaw-edged-angle-grinder disks, causes of kickback, etc.) and this episode regarding has been no exception. The information and experience you’ve shared have been consistently backed up by solid research and has become my most trustworthy source of information on woodworking. Your delivery is also well thought out and presented in a clear and understandable manner. My fingers thank you! ✋😅🤚 John R. PS: Say hello to Mustache Mike!

[@sparky040887]

Bought some ridge carbide blades today from the owner at a woodworking show. Thanks for the recommendation!

[@jlh5995]

Hey James, as a beginning woodworker experimenting with routers, scroll saws, and table saws, I really appreciate the excellent video tutorial on the proper use of feather boards with router tables and table saws - I must say that the correct way you demonstrated is counter intuitive to a novice user of these tools. Thank you for taking the time and effort to produce this video instruction.

[@Woodgate425]

Just when you think you know all there is to know, Someone comes along and tells you more! Thanks James, you’ve taught this old dog some new tricks!!

[@atomiczombie22]

Thanks for this. Very informative.

[@walrod622]

Thank you for keep it simple, like your advices

[@MrMarkpeggy]

Thanks for the great advice James!

[@carasmussen27]

I have been watching quite a few videos on featherboards, just going down the list saw Stump Nubs and knew the advice would be excellent. I love your channel and as a new woodworker i look to you FIRST for good advice. Even I as a nobody could see how bad it was positioning that featherborad along the side the blade.

[@squarelevelplumb]

Always good stuff. Thanks

[@OriginalNightStalker]

Excellent video as always, James :) One point, just for those who may not be aware - many job site table saws (including the SawStop that I have) use a hard polymer compound for the saw table surface - NOT iron. So things like Magswitches DO NOT WORK. Some folks may not have thought of this before buying Magswitches, particularly online - they're a bit harder to return when bought that way. Just something to keep in mind.

[@StumpyNubs]

That's a valuable tip, thanks!

[@ben12079]

I have a Shopsmith and the top is aluminum so I have the same problem. I agree with Dr_Rock (Pete), excellent video. I knew pretty much everything said, but it’s always good to listen to a safety briefing more than once.

[@jhalleck]

I really liked the design of the magswitches and all the accessories but I lack a steel table saw to use them on. They should make an attachment that utilizes a clamp to use the t-slots on non-ferrous tables. Would not take much to fabricate with the modular design they utilize.

[@stephenborntrager6542]

And some cheap table saws have really weird miter tracks that mean you can't mount anything else there either... so a finger board is the only option.

[@ChristopherGoggans]

@@stephenborntrager6542 Cosmas Bauer (I think that's the spelling) had a video he did awhile back where he took a very old cast iron table saw and very carefully fixed them using a carbide bit in a wood router and a straightedge. It seemed to work without too many challenges as long as he went very slow and was careful. This is a situation where your milage may vary, and as always be very careful with something like this. All that said, aluminum and plastic are both softer than cast iron, and it might be possible to fix bad slots with this method. Hope it helps!

[@admspooner]

Another great video. Everyone who uses a table saw should watch your videos. You need to know how kickback works before hitting the power button. "Potentially shoot a board through drywall." That was understated... 😂

[@johnford7847]

Once again, very useful advice. Thanks.

[@kb6dxn]

The Jensen rollers on the table saw also pulls the work tight to the fence too.

[@bobm2637]

I'm very new to woodworking and this is great advice! Thanks.

[@lupostimberwolfwoodworking3281]

I was wondering about the feather board pros. I may purchase a set after this video. Thanks James.

[@navret1707]

Thank you for the info. Makes perfect sense. 👍

[@k.b.woodworker3250]

The internet can be a dangerous place! Wow--that video--just wow! Thanks for helping make the 'net safer! You're the best!!

[@AB-nu5we]

Yep. Great tips. Nice catch on the magazine site. Agreed, don't put direct pressure on a spinning blade. Even if you get away with getting the board by, it puts pressure on arbors, motors, trunnions, tie rods (on table saws), among other parts, leading to all other sorts of problems involving maintenance.

[@williamellis8993]

I can't believe how that video showed to use a featherboard that way. Thanks for the good advice.

[@billwilliams5963]

Very good advice on a topic that not often presented. Thank you.

[@westroadelectric5444]

Great video. Time to place order on Rockler

[@jasonlee5317]

I learn something from every video. This time I learned that sometime idiots make professional videos. I can’t believe they suggested putting pressure sideways against the blade of the table saw. Not too bright. Thanks for letting people know that isn’t safe. I’m afraid of how many people may have already been doing it.

[@joyceannvanpelt3997]

Great advice. Thanks!

[@davelink1318]

Good information, thanks, I just bought the Rockler table saw sled, can't wait to get it!

[@markbryan9989]

Good tutorial. I learned some things!

[@rjtumble]

I always thought the featherboards were for safety, so thanks for clarifying that. I have the jessem clearcut for my table saw and love it. I mounted it to a board that fits in the channel of my fence and lock it down with a couple of those magswitch devices you get from Rockler (or your amazon link in the show notes).

[@tomdaoust]

Great advice. I'm sold on the Featherpro. Love that kickback braking action. My primary need is for keeping a board snug against the fence while cutting a dado, but the kickback brake feature is a nice bonus when I'm ripping a long board. Buying today. Thanks.

[@philallsopp42]

Good advice! Thanks!

[@zavoina]

Just good stuff as always. Now enjoy a cold one. You’ve earned it my friend.

[@thelibertarian7381]

One the best woodworking channels on the toob. 👍

[@david1benson2jonas]

Extremely helpful video, especially for someone new to featherboards like me. Thank you!

[@parsonroy]

Thanks for the info.

[@roberthalaska3030]

THANKS JAMES, ONCE AGAIN YOU HAVE BROUGHT ME UP TO SPEED ON A SUBJECT IN SHORT ORDER!

[@SteveFrenchWoodNStuff]

Good video. And I agree about fleatherboard placement; I should not be alongside the blade.

[@wb_finewoodworking]

Another excellent safety tip James. I’m with you on keeping feather boards in front of a blade, not next to it and certainly NEVER past the center of the blade. I’d not seen the feature on those green feather boards that sort of locks them from allowing a piece to go backwards. That’s an interesting feature. The only feather boards I have now are like the black ones you showed. I think we both got them from Rockler.

[@timort2260]

Great video. I actually put my feather board in hiding. So I'm gonna find it. I tend to not want it because I run mainly shorts through my router table. Since blow out is a problem still feel like this would get in the way for most of my habits. Also you talk about having a small shop. Mines even smaller but if the EMS can fit enough stuff in there ambulance to save a life then we surely can make wood beautiful in a small shop.

[@MrMeasureTwice]

Well stated and great catch on that video that clearly shows a potentially dangerous, VERY dangerous situation!!

[@jbb5470]

Very good video Stumpy! You make several great points about the proper use of feather boards. Thanks for your post

[@robertpatrene2540]

I ended that demo ,I'm 76 & I want to make something soon !!!👏💈

[@kmonz90]

Good info, thanks for sharing, I like the new rubber locking design. IDK where that other video came from but yeah, never put a featherboard next to or past the blade, always in front.

[@ET-yr6st]

Great video , I ordered the duo stack to help me make baseboard (tall work pieces). Thanks again

[@wallacegrommet9343]

Excellent perspective on saw safety

[@simonlangevin5599]

You'r the best 🙌 As pertinent as always

[@ivanherbert2052]

Great video thank you

[@tomconetsco5371]

Thanks very useful information. I have those orange ones but the green ones with the foam fingers is a new one on me. I’m going to look into those thanks!

[@keith3425]

Good advice as usual 👌

[@juntao754]

Awesome video on a subject not covered in general. I am a beginner an I was just experimenting with Styrofoam pieces on my table saw. I got kickback from the cut of piece pinching between the blade and the feather board. Obviously I am glad I was using only Styrofoam and grateful for your video shedding light on what happened. Best regards

[@2979paul]

Great review

[@timthomas9105]

I agree with everything you said. I have a large kitchen project coming up. And for my Son's safety and mine, I bought extras of everything so we can be safe. One thing I did learn was that when ripping a board that thin strip bends easily. I can use a MAGSWITCH halfway between end of the blade and back of the table saw. The strip goes off to the left and a 3/4 board stacked and pivoting just over the left side of the cut board. By adding a washer between them at the pivot point the board is prevented from lifting higher than the washer gap. By doing it this way, I'm not adding drag, just preventing the board from gaining air like a Hawaiian 🏄😂. It's not a total hold down like the rubber ones. But it doesn't apply pressure unless there's a kickback starting. It's not a total solution. As with all of the different types of items you mentioned, it's all about the situation.

[@comma1981]

Great video

[@nottingham_ChrisAllison]

Great video..thank you

[@inkyguy]

Your criticism at 3:47 is correct and completely deserved. (I hope the video you showed has been taken offline. It is dangerous advice.) I was also taught, and it is entirely self-evident, that you NEVER place a featherboard anywhere directly left from the blade. It obviously squeezes the work piece between the featherboard and the blade, creating a perfect combination for an accident. The only variables are not if, but when, the accident will occur and how severe it will be to the worker - and less importantly, to his or her work. Thank you for pointing this out. In my opinion, a push stick, cross-cut sled and featherboard should be standard equipment with a table saw, for both safety as well as function, just like eye, ear and dust protection. By the way, while I am not a professional woodworker, I have been professionally taught from the first day by some of the best professionals in the business, workers whose work and articles have been repeatedly featured in “Fine Woodworking,” for instance. I only mention this not to crow, but just to let any reader of this comment know that I am writing knowledgeably about this subject.

[@furia58]

excellent your advice

[@takeniteasyfriend]

These are the lessons that matter. Thanks

[@Snyper1188]

So I am here from a rabbit hole I leapt down, and im glad I found your channel. Subscribed.

[@bobd5119]

The fancy anti-kickback wheels work nicely. You angle them a little bit so they try to drag your board against the fence. They're far from perfect. It takes patience to set them up, and they get in the way, but they are a help. Go to one of the Amazon links in this video's links, then search for "woodriver kickback".

[@SoullessPolack]

I know the video is primarily about feather boards, but it could have been useful to quickly mention that a table saw blade guard is a phenomenal way to prevent kickback. All the cuts here would have benefited from it. I almost always keep mine on. You can't have it on for every cut, but it's useful for like 80-90% of the cuts I make. And it only takes like 20 seconds to put in. Well worth the risk mitigation.

[@adamcoe]

Agreed. Yeah they're a bit of a pain, and yes, it takes maybe a few seconds longer to dial in your cut, but I always try to use mine whenever possible. Ask yourself if you were to lose a finger or two, and could go back in time and take those 45 seconds to put it on, would you?

[@williamsmith9026]

Im a hack and i know not to put a featherboard where that guy said to. You can see and feel its a bad idea..

[@Kurgosh1]

It does look like it wouldn't work as well as the in front of the blade position, but the way he had it positioned didn't seem likely to produce kickback. It was in line with the front part of the blade, where the saw teeth are descending. Pressure there would tend to push the work into the table. It wouldn't close up the kerf on the back part of the blade where the teeth are rising.

[@StumpyNubs]

That assumes the pressure only flexes the off-cut right at the point of contact, which of course isn't true. And while those teeth aren't rising up, they are moving backwards toward you.

[@ckonetwo]

if not safe, the wood could burn since it is pushing the material towards the blade on the side.

[@romain2869]

Thank you!!

[@DavidBishopinc]

Good job.

[@huwdavies5264]

Hi James, Once again sensible but important safety tips. How can 8 people not like good safety advice. Perhaps one of them is the "expert" you showed. My definition of an expert is Ex = A has been and Spert = A drip under pressure. Cheers, Huw

[@stevenschlussel1361]

Thank you!

[@allanh4803]

I always appreciate your advice on safety in woodworking. The video you showed of some irresponsible person regarding the feather-board should be placed close to the blade is downright dangerous and should be called out as this. Thanks James for another excellent tutorial.

[@rod1148]

Interesting. I just watched the Popular Woodworking video on push sticks and feather boards less than 10 min ago. My first reaction was NOT to place the feather board next to the blade as shown. Your video came up on the suggested playlist and confirmed my thoughts. Thank you. (one more thing: I noticed there was no riving knife in the Popular Woodworking presentation)

[@robertmecalis7030]

Excellent

[@ondrejjanovec6700]

Good video.

[@dougveganparadisebuilder5808]

You present the good stuff like a pro.

[@mikecurtin9831]

Every once in a while you throw something out there that I would never dream someone would do. Thanks very much for the head's up. Clicked like and killed a troll.

[@henrysiegertsz8204]

Stumpy Nubs, the answer to thinking you know all the answers!!!

[@walterrider9600]

thank you

[@dagrin0707]

James, LOVE the channel! Have you looked into Board Buddies? I think they were originally made for RAS, but I threw a pair of them on my TS fence and they both push down and pull the workpiece into the fence due to the shape and cant angle of the wheels. For long rip cuts, at least in my case, they make my rips very accurate and I feel as though it makes it safer as well.

[@sylvaingregoire9262]

You know guys , it all comes down to this ... are we willing to take a corse to lern a knew trade or even a hoby ?!?! Because alot of accidents happened when they said to them selfs ( i can do this self taught ! ) . Take a year corse and you’ll up and dandy to do a lot by your self . The youtube will be just as an update of new ways of doing things or new tools etc... nothing against you Stumpy 🤓 i love to watch your videos 😜 👍🏼

[@cabbyhubby]

I agree completely, S.N. !

[@catmando4914]

Good video. I enjoy all your videos. I find this to be an expensive hobby if you chase all these tools and widgets. I do my best to make my own jigs and helping hand type widgets that I can make from wood scrapes. If that piece of plastic costs more than $5 bucks, you can bet I'll make it myself. Its a cost-benefit thing.

[@AGregPalmer]

Hi James, as a noobie I suck lots of info up. There are several things on my mind after seeing your video. Did you put feedback on the errant and dangerous advice video to call out the practice as wrong? At the very least the approach will cause nasty recut on the thin strip and could even cut up the featherboard at the leading edge of the blade at the end of the cut. The side load on the blade cannot be a good thing either. Also the stacking of feather boards is something that had not occurred to me. Thank you for that. With respect to wide pieces being cut I imagine that you could stack them as well but I expect that the wider the piece the less likely the feather board on the fence is to be of value. Thanks James.

[@lennytheleopard]

You're the dude!

[@mauriceryton]

That magazine offered up very bad advice. I agree with your presentation completely.

[@rick91443]

Thanks as always...rr

[@lawrencerayborn6258]

thanks

[@sidtonic2427]

I ordered some mag switches that you mentioned in another video. That's when I found out my table saw must be aluminum and not steel.

[@bobd5119]

No problemo! Buy another table saw!

[@hazembata]

I dig it.

[@btrswt35]

I totally agree! Who ever teaches to use a feather board directly next to a cutter is going to get someone hurt.

[@Flaaendue]

this guy is the GOAT

[@TaylerMade]

when i trained there wasn't a feather board in sight, except on the shaper for obvious reasons. i must admit i do use one occasionally now if i am doing large runs, or working with extremely long rips.