Subwoofer Phase Setting: Which is best? 0? 180? (Subwoofer Setup Tip)

[@308bushmaster]

Thank you for making this video, I have 3 subs in my room and the bass wasn't what I expected. Than after watching this video I started adjusting the phase on my sub that was the furthest away and WOW!!!! Bass came alive! Thank you

[@alejandroanddrade]

came for the title and stayed for the doggo

[@Subwoofer101]

We have good doggo here.

[@laine93dahatchback75]

He's the best woofer in the whole video

[@maxjasmine]

He's the only woofer that really matters.

[@MrCraigBritt]

There are two doggos! Dual woofers if you will.

[@richardwalley2862]

What is the dogs woof set to?

[@dannichols67]

Room dimensions play a major factor. 0deg with detected distance provided far less bass than 180 in my situation (20' x 30' room with 16' ceiling). But at 180deg seemed very boomy. Thank you for the suggestion of increasing sub distance from standard. It was the only way I could correct while keeping the sub in the front near the towers. I probably need 90deg, but have no way of setting to that phase

[@Subwoofer101]

Room dimensions make a difference, but timing is the real issue. I have packed a motorhome with a full surround system, and it sounds epic. Better than the house. If you are looking for 90 degrees, I would suggest trying 2 feet of added distance. Or 6 feet. Go with what sounds best, but when you adjust the distance value, you will find the spot where the bass opens up the most. (Fewest cancelations between subs and mains.)

[@elbrataz]

The purpose of the phase control on the sub is to allow smooth low frequency integration with the mains (meaning no peaks or dips in frequency response around the crossover frequency). By artificially adding 4 feet to the distance of the subs you have essentially changed the "phase" relationship between the front speakers and the subs by 90 degrees at 70 Hz, which has a quarter wavelength of 4 feet. However, you have created a timing delay between the other speakers and your subs . You will likely achieve a more cohesive surround sound if you set the distances properly and change the phase control to 90 degrees....

[@IvanToman]

This is correct comment, the correct timing dictate *when* the sound front will reach your ears and we want it to come from all drivers at the same time in order to have the best transient attack, not one after another, even thought sound waves are in phase to each other. Only by setting both the phase and timing correctly, one can achieve both simultaneous sound arrival times and correct summing at the crossover frequency. For DSPs that have only 180 deg switch or no phase control it can be still adjusted by acoustically aligning the drivers so that they are in phase at crossover frequency without software control (by physically moving subwoofer closer or further away compared to fullranges) and compansating with time delays accordingly after that.

[@camera7001]

I have 3 total subwoofers, two of them are in the midpoint of my room which is about 20 to 22 feet wide, and one of them is in the middle of that 20-22 feet. I set my phase out the two in the midpoint of my room to 0° and the one in the middle of the 20-22 feet part of the room to 180° phase. I don’t know if it’s technically right, but this has sounded the best and made for the smoothest bass response for my ears, and eliminates my dead spots. Very interesting!

[@terrycole2407]

I love your videos. The extra four feet advice was the most valuable piece of information I have gotten from any of the AVR videos I have ever seen.

[@TheDabbinDave]

It is time to revisit this and the “Sub Distance Hack” video. Things have changed now that all of SVS subs are using the app and phase can be adjusted one degree at a time. The question now is whether leave the Audyssey distances as it measures or set them to the actual physical distance and then use the phase adjustments for each sub? The sub phase is to be set to zero before running Audyssey. I like to set the sub volume at -15db on my PB1KP and go between -79 & -80db on the Audyssey scan. My volume on the sub bas to be increased to -12db to get there. After Audyssey runs, I bump up its result to the number of db it took to get to that 79/80 number. Generally, the AVR number is -4db. My second sub is a Polk PSW-505, it’s phase is set to ZERO. I’m finding myself constantly playing with the phase on the SVS app. Now, I’m questioning the distance Vs phase adjustments. I’m not finding a definitive answer that satisfies my curiosity.

[@devaplan]

Setting up a sub is straightforward if you have access to Spotify on your system. You can also use this technique with two subs if you disconnect one, then do it with one, then the other. 1) Finalise where the sub is going to be placed. Ideally this should be in the middle of and equidistant to each stereo speaker and the same distance to you as the stereo speakers, but its not critical as low bass is not directional. Avoid placing the sub too far away from the main speakers though as the bass will sound detached and experiment with its positioning to get the taughtest and most articulate bass, not the most quantity. Corner placement might not be the best as it will tend to over emphasise some bass frequencies. 2) Download a SPL meter onto your tablet or phone. A digital readout rather than an analogue meter can be easier to read from a distance. You can purchase a sound pressure level meter if you want a more sensitive and accurate reading. 3) Place your device where your head would normally be in the listening position and switch on the app. Make sure the microphone on your device is unobstructed. 4) Play bass frequency test tones available on Spotify. 50HZ should be audible on most systems and do the job and turn up the volume a bit higher than normal listening level, but being careful not to blow your main stereo speakers. 5) Adjust the phase control on your sub so that the SPL meter achieves its maximum level. 6) Your sub should now be in phase with the bass speakers in your main stereo system. 7) Now adjust the crossover frequency of the sub so that it starts to kick in as the bass in your main speakers starts to roll off, then adjust the level of the sub so that you are not aware of the sub itself, but so that your main speakers sound like much bigger ones. 8) Repeat 7) again and again with a variety of music until you are satisfied that the amount and quality of the bass is just right, then leave it alone and enjoy your music. You can make a note of the phase, crossover and level settings or mark the knobs with a dab of correction fluid on the knob and its scale so that if the settings ever get disturbed you can easily return to the optimum settings. Its important to remember that the acoustics of your room will also play a part. The above technique works for one bass frequency at one specific part of the room and music contains various bass frequencies of course but it is a good starting point. Certain frequencies will be reduced in loudness due to the dimensions of your room due to "Standing waves" which will cancel out or reduce sound pressure at certain low frequencies, and on the other hand, certain frequencies will be reinforced. Acoustics of rooms is a science in itself and nobody lives in an anechoic chamber. The main thing is to use the above method then experiment with sub placement and settings so that you get the best subjective result, then just enjoy the music.

[@LukeBurri]

thanks for the detailed explanation.

[@SteveStockmalMusic]

00:41 It's hilarious that right when you held your hands up...the dog moved. Awwwwwww

[@billd9667]

I gotta thank you for pointing out that two different models of subs on one source can be suboptimal. I had an SB 2000 and an SB 1000 in my HT, assuming that they would play well together. I had never even bothered to do a sweep. After viewing one of your videos, I finally did do a frequency test. Holy smokes- there was a huge suckout at 50Hz - like 10dB or more down. I disconnected the SB-1000 and jacked up the volume on the 2000 about 3dB to compensate for the loss of the smaller sub. What a difference! I now get a nice even sweep through the entire range of the sub. My neighbor upstairs is finally justifiably upset with me and I had to turn it down lol. As they say, be careful what you wish for!

[@chinmeysway]

That seems like about phase, if the polarity Is flipped then it doesn’t null / no cancelation

[@billd9667]

@@chinmeysway one would assume that two subs from the same manufacturer would have identical phase, but who knows? High pass filtering is critical if one can’t manage the crossover point perfectly. The latter is difficult if one can’t trust the manufacturer’s specs. I find that the port tuning frequency is a bugbear as the port (or passive radiator can react to frequencies well above what one would consider a good crossover point for their speakers. Im finding, to my chagrin, that the only way to avoid this problem is the set the crossover point higher than I would like. Consequently, I’m more and more leaning to shutting down the sub and trusting the speaker manufacturer. That doesn’t work for small mains, but my current speakers can go deep enough. I really prefer acoustic suspension loudspeakers, but they are increasingly rare these days. TBH, I’m finding the whole audiophile thing to be exhausting lately, just like politics. More and more, I now set it and try to forget it.

[@zachansen8293]

I just called SVC and sure enough, they helped me even though I have none of their products.

[@Subwoofer101]

Yeah they're great like that, and on top of it they really know their stuff! Frankly, if I have questions about Denon or Marantz, I reach out to SVS. Some truly brilliant people over there.

[@number1pappy]

I simply came here looking for info on how to set the phase on my 2 subwoofers as I've heard that If you have a 2 sub setup you want to set one at 0 phase and the other at 180 phase(my subs only have 0 or 180) . I was just looking for that confirmation but what I got instead was just confusion!..lol!...I consider myself to be somewhat intelligent, but I have to tell you after watching this video twice . I'm now more confused as ever! Thanks!!! I'm just going to play with the phase switches and stick with whatever I perceive to sound better! Please dont get me wrong I'm not trying to sound rude but on this topic, this video is just confusing! Sorry! You've done a great job on other videos and I've learned alot! Hell,your the main reason I run two subs now! Thank you for that! Who knows maybe it's me!? I dunno but just call me "confused"!......lol!!!

[@KALTBLUTWOLF1]

One to 0 and the other one to 180? That was a troll my dude

[@jcepri]

Wow, I finally get what that phase setting is for! So if I only have 1 sub, which I do, do I set it to 0?

[@kirkcunningham6146]

This is an older video but I would like to add a few more things many people miss in the comments. It's about timing with the main speakers period. Whether it be phase or group delay settings. The proper way to setting bass is with a "KICK DRUM" track from a good recording in TWO CHANNEL STEREO. Assuming you've gone through the basic stuff such as placement, toe in, setting basic levels etc, dial in your bass distance with KICK DRUM. Once you've decided that the kick drum timing hits you square in the chest and is squared up with the timing of the front speakers, you've got it right. Movies will be accurate and perfect. All music will be accurate and you'll be surrounded by bass.

[@ImpulzeConnection1]

A bit late reaction.. But this is what i heard as well. About the speakers/subs canceling eachothers low frequency out. So you dont hear them. Makes sence since when i produced music and wanted to use an accapella... Just use an instrumental and full track, time them equally and switch the fase of the instrumental and mix the 2.. Leaving me with an accapella

[@ghostinthenutshell3207]

For me, I have always rocked 180degrees on subs. Optimal or not, it feels much smoother and deeper like a cinema. I’ve tried feeakin everything and now 15 yrs later I got new subs. Tried 0degrees for once on both like the Hifi man said, and meh. changed both to 180 and oh my… 😮 what’s wrong with me😅 both in front like my old one

[@Subwoofer101]

You're not wrong, you're already phase shifting by using 180 phase. The problem is, when you set it to 180, you are "delaying" the bass. So you're still getting the benefits of less cancellation, but in my opinion, setting the subs to 0 phase, and then adding 4 ft to the subwoofer distance after room calibration is better because you are putting the bass in the room "before" the mids and highs. Because bass decays slower, I think advancing the bass instead of delaying the bass sounds cleaner. When you add 4 ft, your AVR thinks your subwoofer is 4 feet further away than it actually is. The distance setting in an AVR is basically just timing. So to compensate for being 4 ft further away, it delays the other channels in relation to the subwoofer, so that the subwoofer gets the signal a few milliseconds before the other channels. 180 phase delays the subwoofer by a few milliseconds. Both offset the timing enough to reduce cancellations between the subwoofer and the main speakers. I just believe that because of slower bass decay, advancing sounds cleaner and more cohesive.

[@kuriakos36]

​@@Subwoofer101 which sab to put Distance 4ft friend to the one that is closer than another???

[@gordkeith6679]

Hey man just found your channel and wanted to say THANK YOU! Took your recommendation on settings and it worked for my PB-2000s. Wish I found it sooner but just wanted to say thanks.

[@jwgosla08]

Could you pass those settings on to a fellow PB2000 owner :D I've watched some videos, but I didn't take notes like I should have.

[@gordkeith6679]

@@jwgosla08 So all I did was up the distance setting in my AVR by 4 feet max. You have to play with it based on your room but the max I changed it was 4 feet. So lets say my AVR says the distance of my subwoofer is 9.2 feet. Then all you do is go into the speaker settings and up the DISTANCE to 13.2 feet. Like I said that's the max. I run a dual sub setup and this really helped me. Sometimes I will change it by 2 or 3 just to play around but 4 seems to be just right in my room. Good luck with it, seems to be quite the rabbit hole with getting subs tuned.

[@jasongrisafi7828]

The Dogs were thinking to themselves Who the Hell is he talking too lol ?? He's looking at me but I don't think he's talking to me.

[@mr.blackhawk142]

The dog wanted to do Taxi Driver impression? "R U talkin to me???"

[@choppersplace]

ed at svs told me: if the subs are near the speakers set the phase to zero....if they're much further away then that is when you wish to experiment with phase

[@Subwoofer101]

I like to set it at 0 regardless and use the distance to adjust phase: kzbin.info/www/bejne/poepqZ2eeshjjpo

[@bujoun76]

I'm still trying to wrap my brain around those two "16's" just sitting there like subwoofer gods! I would kill to have that in my home. Literally!

[@Subwoofer101]

They are awesome. Not prison time awesome, but awesome nonetheless!!

[@scottjosephbrandt6175]

FrakU2 Hahahahahaha...Don’t kill anybody literally!!! You won’t be able to take those subs with you to the PEN!!! Those sub are way to huge for tiny room one would spend a life sentence in. However, if you could convince the WARDEN, I’m sure everyone will enjoy your life sentence, listening to your subs. That’s my two cents.

[@MichelLinschoten]

SCOTT JOSEPH BRANDT both his subs fits in one of mine lol... Big does not mean you cannot control it.

[@manny2958]

I appreciate, too a degree, what you are explaining. However the phrase "ignorance is bliss", has drifted into my thoughts. That dog is a perfect example. Thank You.

[@dannysawp1]

I like it when Matthew Mcconaughey explains subs.

[@Subwoofer101]

Well alright, alright...😎

[@etsonos]

When you adjust distance you adjust all frequencies going to that speaker. When you adjust phase you only adjust for the frequencies near the crossover. Also, while the speaker may be 12' away as measured by Audessy, or some other sound alignment tool, that doesn't mean the phase will be correct for the band of frequencies you want maximized at a give position. You could have the distance perfect but 30hz is a longer wave length than 60hz so at the listening position you may be completely out of phase at 60hz but dead on for 30hz. That why you use the phase adjustment to maximize the frequencies at the crossover so your sub isn't out of phase and cancelling out bass from your main speakers. You can use distance to compensate for phase but a 20hz wave length is 56'. The wave length of 30hz is 37'. That's 20' of difference between those two frequencies alone. This is why you focus on the crossover point between your sub and main speakers. That is the spot that if your sub is out of phase with your mains you will have a dead spot.

[@Subwoofer101]

The "Distance" setting is a function of delay, in a round about way. The AVR sets delay based on distance values. Dead spots are more common with single subwoofers, MUCH less of an issue with matching duals. Not every sub has a variable phase, some are only 0 and 180. Adjusting distance allows more precise control in those cases. Adjust it as you see fit of course, but altering the subwoofer distance setting has measurable results: facebook.com/subwoofer101/photos/rpp.1498339940466955/1758500291117584/?type=3&theater

[@etsonos]

Subwoofer 101 You missed my point though. Distance is simply measuring the physical distance from your sub to your main listening position. That has nothing to do with the length of a frequency and whether it peaks at the MLP. 80hz is much longer than the distance most subs are from the MLP so if your sub is 15ft from your couch but a crossover frequency is 25ft wavelength you can't rebuild your living room to 25ft. Distance adjust timing so the sound from the sub hits your ears at the same time the sound from the other speakers do. Phase moves the wavelength so that at that distance the crossover frequency, or whichever your aligning to, also peaks at that distance. They are two separate adjustments.

[@Subwoofer101]

Often, the phase switch is just a delay. But I'll play along. I've eliminated most of the cancellations using the distance setting. How should I have accomplished the same result without using the distance setting? I know that the wavelength increases as the frequency drops, and basically fold up on themselves in an enclosed room, causing modes and nodes. The answer isn't to modify the room to fit the physical wavelength, it's to run multiple subs to knock down the standing wave effect. It does a great job, and it's much easier than trying to calculate the changing wavelengths. I don't think I missed your point, I just don't view wavelength as practically relevant. It's a fun fact, and absolutely true and fun to contemplate, but not something I need to think about when setting things up. Adjusting the distance resolves the problem with far less mental gymnastics. Taking actual wavelength distance into account is overcomplicating the problem in my view. You can also calculate the speed of sound by temperature and altitude, and calibrate sound based on the changing weather day to day, or even hour by hour. Factually, there will be a difference. Practically, all your doing is getting yourself closer to the insane asylum.

[@Jay2tha206]

I was told if the subwoofer is in front of you set it at 0, and if it’s behind you set it at 180.

[@Subwoofer101]

It's more complicated than that. It's better to focus on the timing aspect, in my opinion. Of course, just flipping the phase switch and going with the setting that sounds better in your main listening position works too. You get more control if you focus on the subwoofer distance setting, if your AVR has it.

[@jerryjohnson4625]

Sure a lot of foggy sub info out there, wow. I'm thinking there's no perfect , no matter how much $ we spend. Enjoy the music.

[@LividLeon]

That is incorrect the thing about the sub it design to play low frequency so it is less likely to beam. However it is about compressing air. So of it behind you and the speaker is facing away then it is 180 degrees of phase if it behind you and it is facing you ot should be set a 0 degree.

[@Crazytownmetal6]

@@LividLeon dude subs don't have to be facing any direction they are non directional you are dead wrong on that one man

[@socialsuicide68]

@@Crazytownmetal6 does that include front-facing subs?

[@waeldiab21]

Thanks for the great video. I have question regarding my setup. I have denon AVR with 2 pre out for subwoofer. I’m planning to get one more subwoofer i have Klipsch R-115SW and the new one will be the same model. My question is shall i setup both subwoofers phase to 0 ? Both subwoofers will be in front of me. And one more thing shall I setup both subwoofers LOWPASS to LFE ? Thanks

[@emiel333]

Hi Subwoofer101, great video & explanation. In my home theater set-up, I measured the distance of my speakers with a tape for accurate input. I've also put a couple extra feet to the subwoofer distance. I have a adjustable phase knob on my sub from 0 to 180 degrees. I never use this, just like you I left it on 0 degrees. I recently bought a turntable and some vinyl, and yesterday I finally bough a Blu ray player. Now, my set-up is complete. In the nearby future I'm gonna upgrade my front speakers. After that, the subwoofer. Would like to buy a SVS. I'm subscribed to your channel for a while and see a lot of video's. Also I've read reviews about SVS subwoofers. They are absolute the most valuable subwoofers. That's what I see on simply every review. Very good sound quality and a affordable price. The sub that I have in use now, is good but was more expense than a entry level SVS sub! I have one question: does SVS ship to Europe? That's the only thing I want to know. My decision is made! Friendly regards, Emiel

[@paulv165]

Emiel Bakhuis No SVS doesn’t ship directly to Europe. A couple of years ago L-Sound was their European dealer. Nowadays you can get their subs through Amazon or Dutch eshop Hificorner.nl

[@emiel333]

Paul V thanks, Paul! I'm going to check out the website you mentioned to see what hificorner.nl is selling regarding to SVS.

[@annonymous3948]

I thought you were going to crank up the bass and shit the dog up!😂

[@AllHandlesHaveBeenTaken]

I thought 180 was for subs that are behind you instead of near the other speakers

[@Subwoofer101]

I think distance is a more "fine tune" way to go. You have more precise control of phase/timing alignment.

[@Godly-Beard]

That dog is thinking not another video about these human subs bro lollllllllll

[@MrHumes-nv1zr]

Bought 2 monoprice m215s and they dont boom like they should. Using onkyo rz3100 hooked up lfe. Any suggestions? Factory resets and recalibrations have been done with each setting.

[@byronfranek2706]

I also use the distance setting to delay the mains relative to the sub. I do this by inverting the polarity of the main closest to the sub, with the other main disconnected, and use an SPL meter placed nearfield between the main and sub, to find the distance setting that is at least 1 cycle earlier than the mains and also produces the deepest null playing an 80hz sinewave (crossover). Once the speakers are reconnected in phase, the sound integrates beautifully and seamlessly. Even standing directly in front of the sub and nearest main, all of the bass appears to be coming from the main.

[@Subwoofer101]

I'm trying to figure out if that's the long way to get to what I do with the Distance Hack. What is your subwoofer distance with room correction, and then after your method? Interesting for sure.

[@byronfranek2706]

After cal the distance is 17’ sub and 10’ mains. Manual distance is 23’ for sub. (Monolith 15)

[@altodomino7859]

How do you invert polarity a main. Do you just wire it bass awkwards?

[@jamaljohnson5335]

Basically what I just heard was monkey around with sub placement and the phase settings until it sounds good to you and screw the rest.

[@trilliedon8728]

Jamal Johnson lol yep but if you want to do it professionally then what he is saying is what you would do

[@dewdorama]

thank you for this, I have two subs and I have them 180' out of phase and I'm not happy with the sound...

[@devaplan]

Thats why. Get them in phase with each other and crucially in phase with your stereo speakers.

[@jasonleyva3885]

I'm actually looking for a video explanation about subwoofers in my car, but this video basically told me exactly what I was looking for. And also the fluffy pups!😂

[@skip741x3]

very cool info! i did not know abt the relation on distance to phase and how distance can be used to fine tune phase variances...it makes sense... thanks!

[@giovanni5093]

hi what is the difference between phase 0 180 ???

[@plondor1937]

I have a Denon X3600H AVR and when I try to change the sub distance I get an error stating that the distance is invalid. What am I doing wrong?

[@TimeForTrim]

I have 2 subs using a Y splitter into my receivers only Sub connection. My svs pb3000 is in the front and further away than my second sub which is an older SVS CS Ultra thats in the rear in the opposite kitty corner. I can only select distance for one sub. I am assuming I do the distance +4 from the front that is already furthest distance?

[@crashedcorvette]

OMG that dog is in deep peaceful sleep!!

[@moneyzonetrader]

Ifvi have null in 11x11 room with pb 2000pro will this help

[@creatip123]

I'm guessing the guy practiced this episode a lot, that the doggos got tired of hearing him talk, and dozed off..... Joking aside, this video is very helpful. I landed here searching for setting the phase of my car's trunk sub. Although this video didn't help me per se, it's still very informative and helping me understand the concept a lot better....

[@mattgiunt]

So I have the SVS SB 12-My receiver set it at 9.4 distance.Should I still add 4 ft to this.My sub is about 5 ft from my sitting position. Im thinking in terms of what you said about SVS subs with DSP that sets subs distance further.

[@dannyr2272]

Does it have to be 4 ft added could i add 2 or 3 ft ?

[@Xeltos]

My sub seems to fit better with my speakers and more in time/blend with 180, but it sounds more thin-ish? Not sure if i need to move it or if this is fine.

[@pedrofmc0000]

Hi, I've just bought a German subwoofer Mivoc Hype 10 G2. As far as I know, it has a cancellation after having made the parametric EQ with YPAO (Yamaha receiver) I have the following configuration: This software set a gain of -5,5 dB at the frequency of 62,5 HZ and with a Q= 3,175 . There is a big gap with the shape of a V going down till those negative gain. Can anyone help me? Should I increase the distance (delay) in 4 dB? Maybe to change of phase from 0º to 180º? Changing the position of the subwoofer? Any tip will be welcome. Thanks in advance and greetings from Spain

[@y0Swap]

I just added a subwoofer to my system (2.1), in the beginning I thought I sound bad, but then I tried to press reserve (I didn't have a clue what it was), and my subwoofer now sounds much better? I don't understand anything

[@mr.blackhawk142]

The last sentence is so true!

[@saschaartuskonig3028]

In my case my active subwoofer (it's an Klipsch R120sw) has a static noise (like a humming noise) at 0° phase. In 180° it's gone. Could my amp be potentially broken?

[@joeybuddy96]

10/10 for the center woofer.

[@tallpaull9367]

To Manually set Phase correctly: - let your speakers play full range (ie: mine play down to 50Hz) - set crossover on sub to 10Hz above (ie: mine 60Hz) - Play some music with bass, adjust volume so Sub is noticeable but not too loud - play the lowest frequency of your speakers (ie: mine 50Hz tone). can download a free tone generator app for phone or computer…) - use SPL meter ( or smartphone with SPL meter app works). I use settings C-Weighted, Fast, Low on SPL meter) - cycle through Phase settings (typical 0, 45, 90, 135, 180, 225, 270, 315) and look for the lowest SPL level = Null Point - if Null Point is 0-180 then add 180 = your Phase setting. if Null Point is 181-359 then subtract 180 = your Phase Setting. - now you can play with your Crossover settings (ie: Speakers set to 70 Hz, Subwoofer to 80 Hz. etc…) If Dual subs are both in front like in this video, use this method to setup each subwoofer individually (or just use the same setting). If running one sub on front wall and one sub on rear wall then flip phase 180 degrees from the setting you determined on front sub. (ie: if front sub 135, then rear sub 315) enjoy !

[@Subwoofer101]

I have to disagree here, at least if you're wanting optimal sound. Before I disagree, I want to say that I do appreciate viewers trying to help other viewers. I definitely encourage that on this channel. But here are the problems with your particular method. First off, setting crossover any lower than 80 HZ makes integration difficult. 90 HZ is my minimum crossover value, regardless of speaker size. Secondly, I set all speakers to "Small". You can see my Large vs Small article on my website for a deeper explanation. Third, and most relevant, is that setting subwoofer phase to anything but 0 creates a delay. Why is that an issue? Bass decays slower than mids and highs. So delay exacerbates the timing issues. The reason I recommend adding 4 feet to the subwoofer's value AFTER room correction is because instead of delaying the bass signal, it advances it. Since bass takes longer to decay, it cleans up the sound as much as possible when shifting the phase. If having your subs in perfect timing with your mains was ideal, phase shifting/time shifting would be unnecessary. But if you don't shift phase/timing, you're missing out. If you delay the bass (using the phase adjustment on the subs) the bass will be "chasing the mains", and wouldn't sound as good as if the bass was "ahead of the mains", because of the slower decay of the bass. There's no such thing as "perfect bass", but adding 4 feet to the subwoofer's value is pretty close. You're still phase shifting, reducing cancellations, but it's in a way that sounds cleaner. Lastly, dual matching subs are ideal, for the cleanest, most cohesive and explosive sound. If you're going to measure dual subs, they should be measured at the same time. Doing so separately negates the positive effect of constructive interference, measuring peaks and nulls that won't exist while both subs are working. The easiest way to deal with phase is to advance the signal by adding 4 feet, or, if you don't have room correction or an AVR that has distance values, I would figure out how to delay the mains by 4-8 milliseconds, depending on whether your subs have DSP or not. The best subwoofers will have DSP, and that will introduce delay. That delay could be anywhere from 1 to 4 milliseconds. That's really getting into the weeds, which is why it's a LOT easier to do on an AVR that has room correction. I don't believe that your method is the best way to set phase. It might be a way to go about it, but having tried a number of ways myself, you won't achieve the best possible sound. But again, I do appreciate viewers contributing to the channel, and I mean no disrespect. I'm pretty notorious for not going along with conventional wisdom. Questioning conventional wisdom is almost half of my channel's content. Big subs don't necessarily overpower small rooms. Bigger drivers don't automatically mean better bass. More power doesn't mean better bass, if the power isn't delivered where it's needed most. A 12" sub can sound FAR more impressive than a 15" sub with twice the power. Factory response numbers are nearly useless in the decision making process. Same with Max SPL. Everything is confusing and misleading, but I try to make sense of it all. Again, I do appreciate the contribution. It inspires topics to cover. That helps everyone.

[@tallpaull9367]

@@Subwoofer101 I was just talking about Manually setting up Phase (without room correction ie: Audyssey). With the manual SPL method, I set it up as explained then change crossover settings (ie: 80Hz) afterwards.

[@altodomino7859]

The dog overdosed on bass

[@Edward135i]

Do you have videos on setting the subwoofer level? When I set mine to 80db, (what my speakers are set too) they become boomy and way over powering. I have them about 10db lower than my speakers and they blend perfectly, if an explosion comes from one of my surrounds it's sounds like the bass is coming from that speaker.

[@frazy1984]

Hi there, I need little help with the subwoofer settings. I have a Yamaha 583 receiver hooked up to Boston acoustics a 25 bookshelves and cs 225cll as center with bic America f12 subwoofer. Can you tell me the right settings for the receiver and the subwoofer. My room size 19x9x8 feet, should I change the sub trim volume on my receiver, if yes means to what level . I appreciate your help.

[@jcduran6686]

I loved the photo of the dogs

[@softmetals3702]

simple and to the point without all the dizzy guess work thanks

[@ManfredHanberg]

I wonder why the phase delay on a sub knob is measured in degrees and not milliseconds. Does anyone know?

[@electedmusic7685]

Hello, I have my sub Adam 10 "MK2 And ADAM S2V couple in my homestudy, the fact is that I have it in the center between my two monitors, under my desk, if I leave it with the 0 ° phase and with sonarworks, the graph gives me a + -3db waveform up and down, between 100 Hz and 28 Hz. And if I change it to phase 180 °, I have a +6 dbs rise in the graph, from 80 Hz at 28 Hz. No waveform, all this measured in the whole room The question is that with phase at 0 °, as the graph says, At ear, I perceive less serious, and with the phase at 180 ° I perceive more serious. My question is, which of the two configurations do you think would be in the correct phase? I'm lost.

[@lawrencebarrett9386]

Wow you explain that excellent I got the whole video in less than 5 minutes thanks guy you're the greatest

[@mr.blackhawk142]

Bow wow!

[@1tmo4sho]

I have dual subs but my receiver (AVR 3313CI) only shows 1 instead of 2. Is there a reason it doesn’t show a 2nd?

[@Cblan1224]

Quick question. What if audyssey already measured my sub 20 feet away and its only 10-11 feet away. You still add 4 feet?

[@mr.blackhawk142]

What's farther, Chicago or by train?

[@Cblan1224]

@@mr.blackhawk142 definitely train. I realized this was a side effect of having a wireless sub, and I would assume his logic still applies. But I hated that sub anyway. Dual pb1000s incoming.

[@chinmeysway]

It doesn’t seem like you’re really going into topic of phase. Delay can affect phase alignment (which you are talking about mostly), but if you’re talking about phase - that you admit you don’t mess with - then you’d be going over how sound waves involve cancellation and this is why two subs can null out. If you’re subs were in phase then it’s likely you’d not need to timing trick, pretty sure.

[@mwoolma1]

Awesome dog and great information that's simplistic.

[@panteraowns2515]

If a sub is set to 180 when base hits does the woofer go in or out

[@Subwoofer101]

First impulse would be "in", but I wouldn't get lost in that. 180 switch could be seen as a simple delay, which is why I recommend using distance instead of the 180 degree phase switch. More precise control. Where a 180 degree phase switch is like reducing the subwoofer distance value (timing), adding to the distance value sends the bass signal into the room a little sooner than the rest of the speakers. You can't do that with a phase switch. Once the signal leaves the AVR, the only timing effect you can have is a delay. That's why doing it in the AVR (using distance settings) is the best way to go, in my opinion.

[@mr.blackhawk142]

base hits??? This aint baseball...Spanky!

[@kuriakos36]

Do you think that if I measure the samps accurately at the listening position and put the metre's in the amplifier, I won't have the right bass???

[@pastaman6099]

Drivers go only 2 directions, back and forth, so just 0 and 180 make sense. What does the variable setting between those even do? I'm confused.

[@americanmade7231]

Hi @Subwoofer 101, how do you get Subwoofer 1 and Subwoofer 2 to config separately in your Distance settings? I've got Denon's AVR-X2400H model.

[@davidparker8752]

From what I’ve learned if your receiver while doing room correction does not tone each sub separately then there is no way to do it. If your receiver has only one sub input then it would be impossible if you split the rca signal. If it’s got two and only one signal while room correcting then it’s not a true dual sub receiver.

[@rlwings]

I added 4' to the subwoofer distance determined by Audyssey and all the bass disappeared in the main listening position! ... I'm not sure this method works... At least in my case, the Audyssey setting works best. Full, balanced and correct.

[@Subwoofer101]

Entirely possible, that's why I say to always trust your ears. What is your setup? AVR, how many subs, which subs and which speakers? I know that the SVS Ultra Towers only benefit from +1 foot vs +4 feet in my room.

[@rlwings]

Subwoofer 101 thanks for saying that. I was beginning to think that you meant 4 feet no matter what... I have a 10" Elac subwoofer which I think has very quick Electronics. Therefore the sound arrives at the ears very quickly. Requiring Les adjustment. I had a Polk Audio sub of lower-quality once that audyssey picked up at 22 ft! Same distance in reality. So as you can see Electronics play a huge part. I have a Marantz sr6012 AVR and 1 sub at the moment... I don't mean to contradict you in my last comment but I wasn't sure... I love your videos. Thank you.

[@TobiEstosWorld]

does the phase matters when i drive a single sub ?

[@MrMbzbun]

THANK YOU SO MUCH, THIS IS SO HELPFUL

[@Subwoofer101]

Thank you for your comment!

[@generalkickass6385]

Only switch phase to 180 if the sub is inverted backwards in the box

[@pounceonyou1958]

What bookshelf speakers have you got there?

[@Subwoofer101]

It's in the description, a bit of the way down, but they are SVS Ultra Bookshelf.

[@duranarts]

Dogs for sound absorption is quite the innovation

[@jorgem50]

I have three 12s and two 10s in my living...all I know is that they rock the house

[@Subwoofer101]

Check out my list of subwoofers on the website, it explains deep bass subs. Most subs can get loud. Sounding deep in a clean way is not common at all. And soooo much better.

[@museatex111]

Do you understand the difference between phase adjustment and delay on the receiver? I don't believe you do based on what I have heard you saying in the video...

[@decaf77]

Thank you for these videos they are much appreciated!

[@Buxtonphil]

What mic and software do you use to graph your Audio response?

[@mr.blackhawk142]

I don't have a mic or soft ware.

[@Kane031177]

Could you please explain why you like using bookshelf speakers instead of tower speakers?

[@Subwoofer101]

+Jaquay Lawson Both work quite well, I almost don't have a preference. That said, a Tower of the same caliber will give a more full sound. The Ultra Bookshelf speakers have a little more 'sparkle" to them than the Prime Towers, but it's a thin margin, I'm a big fan of the Prime Towers. If I had to choose between the two, it would probably come down to aesthetics. After I decide on a decent external amp, I'll probably move on to the Ultra Towers.

[@JC-bl9bo]

I went from towers to bookshelf speakers a year ago and don't ever see myself going back. A great bookshelf and great sub or two is just as good if not better than towers. A great bookshelf is also more affordable. I LOVE my system. Def Tech SM 65 LCR, SM 55 surrounds, PB-1000 sub. Its just amazing.

[@fredmccarroll3476]

According to Dennis Foley for Acoustic Fields, you should never have your speakers on the floor and that includes floorstanding tower speakers and subwoofers. So on that note, I'm in the process of building some absorption platforms for my Klipsch F3 floorstanders and Klipsch SW-450 subwoofer. Personally, I could not visualize a home audio system without floorstanders/towers for listening to music or home theater system for movies. My system is set up as a 7.1 home theater. My Yamaha A/V receiver can also switch over to 2-channel stereo for music if I choose to do so, but I usually listen to music and watch movies both through 7.1 Enhanced mode.

[@LividLeon]

The phase has nothing to do with distance is what direction the sub is facing if your sub is in the back and the speaker is facing the trunk it should be set at 180 degree phase. Your sub shouldn't not be facing left or right unless it is custom design or if you have two sub then they can be 0 degrees phase and one facing left and one facing right it is about balancing sound.

[@Subwoofer101]

I have to disagree with you. You can get much more accurate results altering the timing rather than just the phase switch. The phase switch is one setting or the other. Two choices only. Adjusting timing allows for a much higher number of adjustments in between, as well as a way to advance the bass signal rather than just delay it. The sweet spot for getting rid of most of the cancellations is highly unlikely to be at either 0 or 180. 180 works like a delay, which can be even worse in terms of timing. In a home theater application, increasing the distance of the subwoofer actually puts the bass signal out a little bit sooner than the other speakers. Since bass decays, getting the signal out slightly ahead of everything else provides a better balance, in my opinion. I would never recommend someone alter phase purely on which direction the sub is facing. That might be common advice, but it could actually make the timing even worse, creating a muddy sound. If the orientation of the sub is behind you and facing behind you, and no timing adjustments are made to compensate, you're probably out of proper timing to begin with. In a car, the speakers are right next to you, with the sub in the back, facing the trunk. The sound from the door speakers hit you right away, while the sub has to bounce off the back of the trunk and come back to your ears. The sound is now delayed even more from the sub. 180 phase essentially increases that delay. I don't focus much on car audio, but if I were to get into the weeds, I would install a Mini DSP 2x4 before all of the amps to alter timing for every speaker, and shape the response curve. It would be the best way to get the best bass response, but not a small undertaking. Lots of math and measurements to get it right. All of that said, sure, if 0 or 180 sounds better, and that's all of the adjustment you have, trust your ears and go with the best sound. Bass is more complicated than that though, and using distance/timing is a FAR better and more effective choice, if it's available.

[@totalbliss1]

Great video. I don't mess with phase either. I've noticed a big difference all around and not just with Bass when I turn on the Dynamic Eq on the Denon receiver. I know you don't like the Dynamic Volume on, which I don't either, but what do you think of the Dynamic Eq? I find I had to lower the bass settings on the subs and in Audussey a little to reduce some of the reverberations but I find it just to be all around dynamic. Do you find it to be unnatural, overbearing..or do you like it?

[@Subwoofer101]

+Johnny Blaze I do use Dynamic EQ. I also like the restore option on low; oddly enough, it's great with vinyl. That can depend on the source though, but I do like Dynamic EQ. I also like the "Flat" setting vs "Reference".

[@marknelson801]

Good info for the issue. Also you are correct that SVS is a great company with lots of knowledge to give. Ed Mullen and many others have been a huge help when I have a question. I am Running dual PC2000s soon to be quad 2000s. Love the dogs.

[@Subwoofer101]

+Mark Nelson Yeah, SVS has always been super responsive and spot on when it comes to audio. Very helpful. Quad 2000's are great, just don't try mixing wired with wireless like I did. Wired is the way to go if you can.

[@marknelson801]

Yes wired will be the method of wiring the subs. Ed Warned me of that very issue too. Christmas will be filled with some clean fun bass to enjoy. Keep up the good work I enjoy your videos.

[@owenheuston9571]

I see you reference Audyssey, does adding 4 feet also work for the Yamaha's YPAO?

[@Subwoofer101]

I imagine it should. Give it a go and see if you notice a difference.

[@dannichols67]

Yes, it worked for me with the RX-V635 YPAO and 500w JBL sealed sub

[@davidlewis8124]

You make it easy to understand 😎👍💯

[@squid11160]

I thought only class D amplified woofers have DSPs? A and A/B shouldn't.... or am I wrong?

[@ojitomonilla]

Thanks for your explanation

[@mr.blackhawk142]

2 subwoofers and 2 WOOF WOOFERS, and all 4 are sleepin'! :P

[@donaldnelson976]

All my subs are out of phase they kick harder less excursion and they play louder sound much better

[@RonoTron01]

Thanks for the clarification on phasing. How are you connecting your dual subs to the AVR?

[@nils5869]

Can someone post a subwoofer measurement with the umik 1 and with the audyssey mic ? I am interested how much the Audyssey is off. Thx

[@Subwoofer101]

I'll try to remember to do that next time I have everything out.

[@nils5869]

Thx

[@nils5869]

Level isn't the problem. Calibration is here the question :)

[@srinivasrao1595]

You have earned a subscriber

[@deputysheriff5994]

How do you set the phase of 4 subs in each corner of the room?!

[@VNeto94]

I guess you need a Phd to find out.

[@Edison73100]

I started out to learn about phase, but then, just watched your dogs...

[@timothykorneychuk3353]

Watch someone play basket ball from across the field😂😂

[@OOnti-dz4jd]

So if my sub is next to my front channel it’s 0 phase?

[@liquidimprints]

What happens if you have two subs in two different places, running off a y cable

[@mr.blackhawk142]

HOW do jou do that with yer thumb???

[@samidebs3474]

How about if you have one in the front corner and one in the back corner?

[@jaimegallegos4085]

Muchas gracias ....por compartir tus conocimientos nos ahorras mucho tiempo y dinero

[@williamfitzpatrick6369]

Which is best? Chances are neither is going to be 100% correct unless the subs and satellites have been CORRECTLY designed as a complete system and they are phased and in physical positions as outlined by, hopefully, a COMPETENT designer. In ANY other case there is no definitive answer and you might want to go for the phase connection, relative volume settings and physical position combination which pleases you the most. OR If you have some test equipment (audio oscillator, mic and sound level meter you can take measurements outdoors near the crossover frequency to discover position and phasing to give the flattest response around the crossover frequency but you will be losing the information from room reflections that may temper your decision. You can also make the necessary measurements inside but will need appropriate software and a mic. That's a good start but, as always, getting GREAT sound is way more complicated. A better choice may be to buy a CORRECTLY designed system which has all the drivers in the same enclosure then the aforementioned problems and decisions won't exist. The remaining problems standing in the way of SUPERIOR sound that you may want to address are 1) proper positioning of the speakers within the room and 2) acoustical treatment of the room surfaces and corners. For acoustical treatment I recommend "Acoustic Sciences Corporation" in Eugene OR. For some excellent speaker design information I recommend taking a look at the "Linkwitz Lab" web site. A caveat. Most, but not all, people posting speaker/equipment information on KZbin don't have a clue and are either selling a product for a percentage/kickback or are selling themselves as individuals offering good advise, which they are not. Take speaker recommendations with several grains of salt.

[@johnotero9723]

I want to know why ...pioneer doesn't make a proper 12inch home subwoofer avaliable on the market?

[@andysummersthxcinemaandmyc7748]

DSP variable phase 0 to 180 in 5 degree steps.

[@meowmeow1733]

This guy has a serious over kill system for that size room.

[@Subwoofer101]

It's not really overkill. People tend to assume that you are limited by the size of your room, and it's just not true. See my tiny room video, I've packed a full size theater inside of a motorhome, with pretty surprising success.

[@SzymonKasperczyk]

My sub has phase switch '-' and '+'. Which one would be 0 and which 180? I mean which one is normal, minus or plus?

[@SzymonKasperczyk]

OK I got it from manual. '-' is inverted, '+' is normal