Surface Grinder Wheel Balancer - Part 2! WW178

[@royletterle2082]

Hi John. The metric parameters are a great addition. This helps so much in getting a feel for size and proportion. Keep it up!!!!!

[@scheepersluke]

Yes for the metric data!

[@2384SKIPPER]

@NYC CNC Vc is not the Unit for surface speed in metric it is the symbol in a formula. The Unit is m/min. It should be written like: Vc=660 m/min .

[@cschwad559]

Hey, John, good to see you using the tennis elbow splint. They work great for tendinitis. As a pharmacist I talked a bunch of people into trying them out and they nearly always came back to thank me. Great segment as per usual.

[@886014]

Great video John, that engraving came up a treat.That doorstop was an excellent tip I'd never seen before. Thanks

[@Nathan-mg7ho]

the sander trick does work, just dont hold the scotch bright pad, it needs to spin with the sander to work

[@frijoli9579]

If you use shielded or non sealed bearing they win spin even more freely. Really liking this series.

[@joshuaboulee8190]

Nice engraving! Another reason to do it immediately after the fly cutter is part flex after additional material removal, especially on thin parts or ones with large unsupported areas

[@kasperontheweb]

Saw you installng what looked to be sealed bearings, isn't the extra resistance of the seals in the bearing going to make the balancing less accurate over using shielded bearings or using bearings with no seal or shield at all?

[@gregfeneis609]

He'll be OK, so long as the rotating mass is high enough and he only needs to reduce the imbalance so far. Definitely would be a more sensitive setup with naked bearings

[@kentvandervelden]

Maybe cut the ScotchBrite pad use that with a sander that takes 1/4 sheets. You're loosing a lot of energy not having the pad firmly attached to the sander. Pneumatic sanders are a little nicer, at least that was my experience while working on a lot of parts for a Van's RV9. I have to wear a mask though. Why do you dislike bead blasting? Hard to beat it for small crevices, just be sure to plug threaded holes. I used to get tendonitis bad, only help was a sports PT who did deep tissue massage and electrotheropy, and then watching how I grip stuff and press. No problems for a few years. Happy New Years!

[@macsrule15]

1/4 sheet palm sander with Scotch Brite works better than you could imagine!

[@tylerking9915]

At my shop we use a scotchbrite pad made for our orbital sander and it works wonders

[@gnaloin]

Vc = circular velocity, the exact same thing as imperial fpm. Only the unit is meter per minute instead of feet.

[@echobravo5488]

The door stop idea is pretty clever!:-)

[@chaoticlogic588]

Hey john. Clever use of the rubber door stop but why not make yourself a set of machinist jack screws?

[@jimsvideos7201]

The modular vise seems like one of those "why didn't this exist 50 years ago" things.

[@LumaLabs]

Not to take anything away from the good work of Mr Saunders, but modular vises have existed for quite some time, primarily as big $$$ tooling sorta things. Take a look at Steven's Engineering (who incidentally, also make table fixture plates).

[@donzmilky5961]

That cliff hangar was killing me.

[@John91406]

John, Love the Balancer! Any Chance that SMW will have these for sale?

[@07ram55]

John, is there a reason you use such a low depth spot I always spot drill to final diameter +.015 % 2 so you leave a nice 15 thou chamfer on your holes assuming you use a 90 degree spot drill

[@07ram55]

That should be a / not a % not sure how I got that in there

[@gregfeneis609]

U can edit it.

[@outputcoupler7819]

A free chamfer is nice, but I believe it causes additional wear on the drill that follows, since the flutes contact the work first, instead of the point. Ideally you should use a spot drill with a wider angle than your drill, so the point of the drill contacts first. I'd also expect shallower spot depths to increase the life of the spot drills. Since you're probably going to be chamfering more than just the drilled holes, may as well use a shallow spot depth and preserve tool life.

[@gredangeo]

I use a 120Deg spot tool. It's better for the drill bit that is typically 118Deg.

[@weldiddesigns6174]

Give a pneumatic jitterbug with scotchbrite a try for finishing. That or a burnishing wheel on an angle grinder.

[@evbunke2]

Don't know how well it would work on aluminum, but at my old job we did finish some softer materials (proprietary stuff, sort of like renshape) with scotchbrite under a standard palm sander. Why were you stopping the scotchbrite from spinning with the orbital sander? It needs to move against the surface to have any effect, why stop it from moving?

[@MrKureigu07]

Looks like the abrasive disc was still on the sander, so the scotchbrite pad wasn't even attached to the sander. PSA:- The same hooks that hold standard abrasive discs hold onto scotchbrite great. And yes, let it spin, but adjust the sander and down force so that the scotchbrite turns slowly not spinning around like a damn cut-off wheel.

[@SoundsFantastic]

Why not ditch the double bubbles for a single circular inclinometer level?

[@alexgroeger326]

You talk a lot about feeds and speeds. But many of us have routers with fixed spindle speeds. My router for instance has five set speeds. 10000, 13000, 16000, 19000, and 21000 rpm. So how do you figure your feed rate when you're stuck with a certain spindle speed? Haven't seen much information on this and I'm sure this would benefit a great many people. Thanks.

[@gnaloin]

Feed per tooth x number of teeth x rpm = feed per minute. So if you have a tool with 2 cutting edges and you want to take 0,1mm cut per tooth at 10000rpm, you will set the feed 0,1mmx2x10000rpm = 2000mm/min.

[@miatakid2]

Is there a kit for sale?

[@kristianSilva95]

the symbol for surface speed is V subscript c, not VC

[@brentnicol6391]

Hi John. Sorry to hear about your arm but take my advice. Try not to use your arm too much. It happened to me a few years ago and I ignored it and it got worse. It actually got that worse that I could do nothing with my arm for a year and Ivwent onto light duty at work. Not a nice thing. All the best with it and thank you for the video.

[@stevendoesburg6555]

Anodising article: www.nyccnc.com/how-to-outsource-anodizing/. John, I couldn't find the article through your site and had to google for it. I missed the card in the video the first time around too.

[@gregfeneis609]

7:28, Why don't you like sand blasting things?

[@djBurgers]

Is there a reason why you guys don't do anodizing in house?

[@leeklemetti1887]

Anodizing is a special requirement business. ( I designed anodizing lines) High current is a must, 30,000 amps @ 5 volts is typical for a large setup. Special cleaning tanks are needed. Phosphoric acid at high temperature may be used. There are many other requirements as well. Aw heck, farm it out!

[@Sicktrickintuner]

Ya you need expensive equipment to anodize materials along with all the chemicals and floor space. I used to build the transformers/rectification units that were 12V at 5000-30000 amps! Lots of copper into those things. And some had a cost $100,000 for just the transformer unit! Company I worked for was North American Rectifier here in Canada

[@leeklemetti1887]

Sicktrickintuner; Yo, My line I designed was a 160 foot long coil anodizing line (6 foot wide) with several cleaning tanks, color tanks, a very long anodizing tank, plus roll feed drive and roll take up equipment. It was a fun bit of work.

[@occamssawzall3486]

Scotch brite and a palm sander doesn’t work that well because there’s too much flex in the scotch brite fabric and the sander doesn’t move enough of a distance to do anything. It just vibrates the scotch brite but the grit in it doesn’t move anywhere. They make scotch brite pads that fit to bench grinders, works much better. Also rubberized sanding blocks work well too. As do abrasive nylon brush wheels that fit on angle grinders.

[@zigmass4899]

Auto balancing: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jqrVZoiQgNesn9k