Suzuki DR650 RSE Restoration Part 4 The Engine assembly

[@mircearadu3854]

Briliant work ! Best regards from Romania.

[@simontamas2299]

Now I see that yours is also an electronic starter and kick starter conversion 😁

[@restorationvalve]

Yeah, someone added a kickstarter after the starter clutch failed. Kicking the bike over without the de-compression leaver is a hustle.

[@arturoterrasi5919]

Great job 👍

[@PauloValenga]

Congratulations, great video!!! You would have the DR 650 rse service manual?

[@simontamas2299]

Nice work! However, you did not put the o-ring under the oil filter. Thus, some of the oil enters the oil circuit unfiltered. I saw in your disassembly video that it wasn’t in it before either.

[@restorationvalve]

Jup, your right, I didn't add it in the video, but I noticed it too when changing the oil after the engine had a few hours of run-in time.

[@roscaiustin448]

Hello ! Yesterday I changed the cluch on my dr650rse , all good till today , when I tryed to ride the bike and in 5 meters I heard a sound from cluch zone like something broke, but very silent and the bike won't start again. I don't know what I do wrong. Thanks for all your videos, they helps me a lot !!!

[@restorationvalve]

Thanks, hope you find what's happened to your bike.

[@ЮрийКурочкин-ъ1л]

Отличное видео!!!

[@AltodaMontanha]

Great job and very helpful resource of information for DR owners. Just two things I noticed: did you install the clutch without the stopper ring that comes after the washer seat, concaved washer, clutch driven plate and ticker clutch drive plate? Does it work well? Second, didn't you use a gasket for the engine cover for the "clutch side"? Again, awesome video!

[@restorationvalve]

I did install the washers ( 08211-22383 ) that come before and after the clutch basket, otherwise, the basket can't freely rotate on the shaft, which wouldn't allow the clutch to disengage. I didn't put on the gasket because I was waiting on the oil level glass. You can see it in the next video - kzbin.info/www/bejne/aamVk6KmYq6KnNU

[@froogfroog]

Fantastic restoration !! Very useful as I am redoing a DR650RSE 1992 - currently the gearbox - I could hardly get into 4th and 5th. Upon opening no apparent dammage except the crankcase is worn out by 2mm approximately under the gear shifting cam where they are in contact. Adding a spacer seems to do the job. Do you think this could have been the problem ? Thanks !!

[@restorationvalve]

I haven’t run into a problem similar to yours. If the gears didn’t show any visual damage then my next guess would be inspect the gear shift cam and the forks. Play in the cam can resolve which it not getting in to all gears

[@mairisja]

Heyy, Thank You for these great videos! When You disassembled the engine, there were a metallic sponge in between both crankcase blocks, right below engine breathing hose pipe intake and when You were assembling it back togather, You didn’t install it there. Was that on purpose as the sponge tends to break apart by small peaces of metal? Maybe You replaced it with some alternative or left the breathing intake without it? Having the same engine split in half and now I’m thinking of removing that metal sponge from there, but can’t imagine if I should replace it with something.

[@restorationvalve]

Hi, I left the metal mesh out because it wasn’t in the best of shape. The part can be ordered with this number 11328-14A03,

[@CatalinFDume.]

Nice job, how much did cost you the parts for entry dr650, I’m about to buy my self an 96 dry650, and I’m wondering how much will cost the parts,. Thanks

[@emielknepper6959]

Very good video! Very useful Just a question: how did you know that the chain tensioner was properly installed? On my DR650 it is very loose but I have no idea how I know when it is just right. I also ask that because there is play at bolts 1 and 2 (in the picture at 13:58)

[@restorationvalve]

When you loosen the two M8 allen head bolts , the spring should tension the chain. After that you set the limit screw that’s on the right side of the tensioner. If you feel that the tensioner is at the end of its adjustment then the chain is most likely stretched and/or the guides are worn. You can get a new chain, but I haven’t seen new guides anywhere. There shouldn’t be any play in the bolts 1 and 2, they lock in and hold the tensioner. Try cleaning the threads, because there might be old thread lock that doesn’t allow you to run in the bolts properly.

[@emielknepper6959]

@@restorationvalve I understand. I'll check it this weekend. Thanks already!

[@igotakai5644]

Looks great! Which paint and lacquer did you use and how is it holding up?

[@restorationvalve]

I used acrylic paint and Motip super clear lacker There will be another example on the black Suzuki See the example here: instagram.com/p/CbQbhpNM6bE/

[@igotakai5644]

@@restorationvalve it still looks good?

[@restorationvalve]

@@igotakai5644 I’ve sold the blue Suzuki to start new projects. Will see how the black one goes and will follow up on that response

[@tiagoreis3481]

Hello, first of all, excelent work!! My DR 650 was vibrating a lot, so I adjusted the chain tension (was very loose), but no improvements and now it makes chain noise... Previous owner had the engine rebuit but I think something is not ok so I'm trying to find out what's wrong.. does the aligment you made at 13:55 with the chain marks puts the engine on the TDC? Or is it independent/not suposed to? Also, the part that you assemble at 16:09 and 16:15 on the balancer shaft, in my case, is loose between the nut (in both) and I cannot tighten the nut because it always rotate (even with the engine not in neutral) Sorry for long comment, hope you can help me Thank you!

[@restorationvalve]

The crankshaft mark for the balancer chain in the service manual doesn't reference TDC. The marks there are for you to see where to position the shafts. If your engine has gone out of balance, start by checking all of the shaft sprocket keys, I have seen a few times that the keys are shredded because of loose nuts on the countershafts. Align all the shafts and the chain with all of the marks, and then start the tensioning process. You loosen the small M5 bolt and nut on he side, then let the spring tension the chain, and then tighten the two M8 Allen head bolts. ( use Loctite on the M8 bolts ) After you have secured the M8 bolts, run in the small M5 bolt, but no too tight so it doesn't damage any threads, and then secure it with the small nut. If done all correctly, you should have a balanced engine.

[@tiagoreis3481]

​@@restorationvalveyou are right! Just dissassembled the sprockets and the keys of both are destroyed so the balancers were not working.. Got to buy new ones. Thank you very much for your help!

[@rickybobby7660]

Good work. I have exactly the same job to do on my ‘92 RSE, do you have a good source for gaskets, seals, PDF manual and spare parts? It’s really difficult to find RSE stuff in the UK?

[@restorationvalve]

I have ordered a gasket kit from eBay, but the starter gear housing gasket wasn't included in it. www.ebay.com/itm/154739315764?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item24072e9434:g:7mEAAOSwjhhh1HW0&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACoPYe5NmHp%252B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsStEKTPzZMfQmny3knR97t0Ei5U7aNF9%252FdkKfh5VdizYO4Twbt5LPSs5KoOQZXuPa8ti73cVpsAjNKy67FCE9RNh9gMq0ZFED08fvyMn9%252FWB83EF2fe3zBaChfKJUchT0E%252BRhiMs3jB7V2wLBq%252Fcpdaffj0Ca0zEdAiz8y1yaWfEAv%252BNeWqk%252BS4QjUq4KFljjYVuIsaA7l2qx3cYubcVGBqaBlBOSXvjTrCWxqbaqVpQKxIzE7Hwe5w18iOJSmo%252Foa0jPD4Jt%252BIM7Zu%252BxxxeHg6dytbw3Gi4S%252BE%252Fivvjbkd3IihsjyaCy%252FQc0SfvWSWy6XQK2g%252Brkons7x5jJLjdrRDGEyeDTE2FS6CRZq%252F4k4BDxIhsuT5J291bbOYm0wZjXFL3J1uaNqTXdpCo6NW%252F3SPayLIMlPuMJcV8PqcGIIPoVuj0Pa%252FscWm4Zkwkcb9PD%252FgTn04G%252BZWqh%252FsW%252BJoHu5uREXoLCadDaK7YzlFpJdm%252F7Bl4GZb0vdmK%252BOmxLPv6GTahw1Q%252Bu%252BIrFq5Pr2lN9e7gigCXep1uddefTqOx5lgflROJHtnouEp3miB3yLEig6heufxudHQpwG7VsSFglVJs4VyXKVGjbFSCAL%252FiL9RJR8Zn4vNDBaifR3JDhZUv2T8oFD34bv8ooGHzizS4tdH1bxQfdgu4oJEODUOE4MUMKseriE27P7v08SYIDlO%252FfD7OU0V0G0cn1VclsAfOU06aWmBgunjNUljOhYJW2jUrqB%252B0R2FrWfLiP0kRPQqOZmBbImWXYi4a18UH5xoG7MmOW%252FZaQ1%252B9KM86RVhsWkqore12r45wxuZP5Aw0Ep6ESaI%252Fsd8zGBJRQH85qxkc4Kew%253D%253D%7Cclp%3A2334524%7Ctkp%3ABFBMgNDo8N9f After that I used a set from my local parts dealer: ic24.lv/produkti/485079-athena-dzineja-blivju-komplekti-p400510850650&gru=A~6200000 The used parts I found in Poland - Allegro.pl or ebay.com

[@The666knives]

How did the old owner add a kickstarter to the sp43 engine? Thanks

[@restorationvalve]

Hi, Any of the RS engines can be fitted with a Kickstarter. You just have to get the necessary parts and split the case to fit it. Also, I recommend adding a de-compression lever or make the electric solenoid function on demand, so you aren't fighting the compresion. Just look at the 90-91 models on here: www.suzuki-motorrad-ersatzteile.de/d2p/d2p?ALIAS=25003&CLIENT=LAUX&LANGUAGE=DE

[@The666knives]

@@restorationvalve i think i'm also going to fit a kickstarter! Thank you for the information! Keep up the good work!

[@ignaciocanepa6233]

hi, NICE JOB! question: the cilinder comes with separated cilinder sleeve? or the piece is just 1? thanks.

[@restorationvalve]

The engine has a cylinder sleeve, It’s pressed in.

[@ignaciocanepa6233]

@@restorationvalve thank you! :)

[@ignaciocanepa6233]

@@restorationvalve Thank you! do you have any idea where I can get it? who sale it. Thank you so much.

[@restorationvalve]

@@ignaciocanepa6233 I haven't seen a new one from the OEM part dealers. Maybe some aftermarket manufacturers have one. This might be a part that is available only used.

[@ignaciocanepa6233]

@@restorationvalve got it, thank you so much. Nice work!

[@kontobeznazwy4078]

I have noticed that in min 20:50 you don't use oring on pistnon cooling pipe. Or I haven't noticed that...I haven't noticed that on the other your movies as well. Do you use them? I am asking because when I opened mine engine I didn't have this oring on this pipe. Is that a big issue according to your experience with DR650? Do you know the dimensions of this oring? And great thank you for so profesional tutorial videos!

[@restorationvalve]

Hi, thanks for noticing. The lack of the Oring on the 11390-12D01-000 would mean that the oil channel is getting slightly more oil, but it's better to stick to the manufacturer's recommendation and put one in. The OEM part number for the o ring is 09280-08012-000, which in the description shows a D:1.9 / ID:7.8mm

[@kontobeznazwy4078]

​@@restorationvalve Many thanks for info. By the way, do you use any silicon layer or just clutch gasket to avoid any leakage? And what is your opinion about Motip Engine Paint? I have seen that you used it some time ago.

[@restorationvalve]

@@kontobeznazwy4078 If you get a good quality or OEM gasget, it already commes with it. If not, use just the smalles amount to avoid cloging the oil line to the top end. I have used several Motip products, but I don't really recall using engine paint.

[@kontobeznazwy4078]

@@restorationvalve Hi my DR650 master:))) I have another question. Today I suddenly had a problem with my kiskstarter. When I tried to kick then the lever stayed down. When I put it up by hand it was possible to kick and start the engine but it staid again down so you can hear the noise of small gear sound until I put the lever in top position by hand. I think it is probably the problem with a spring. Do you thing I am correct? My question is. Do I have to open half of the engine to replace the spring or whole kick start mechanism or I just have to open the right engine cover?

[@soliscabal]

Great work but the music man is not necessary

[@Alexis32rus]

Класс

[@nilsonneves191]

Meu motor está com barulho oq devo fazer

[@restorationvalve]

Figure out from where the noise is coming from. Is it from top of the engine valve rockers or is it from the bottom where the crankshaft sits? To better find a noise I used a automotive stethoscope that helps to pin point the area of the noise

[@АлександрКнязьков-д2н]

герметик? после каждой катки разбираешь?