Suzuki Intruder Volusia - how to take the carburettor apart

Detailed video on how to take the carb apart for cleaning.
Especially useful to those that would like to try but don't have the confidence. It's not that hard and if you follow the video, you will have it out in no time at all.
My merch shop (UK): www.redbubble.com/people/Mara...
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Carbs cleaned using ultrasonic cleaner: amzn.to/3DM69K6
If you enjoy watching my videos and would like to contribute to me being able to carry on doing it, you can use "Super Thanks" button below the video. Every little helps.
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[@greenhills7790]

Those screws holding the funnel are thread locked so that they don't vibrate loose and get sucked into the motor. You need to use a JIS (Japanase Industrial Standard) screwdriver to remove them and not bugger the screw heads. They LOOK like Phillips heads, but they are NOT. Phillips drivers/bits will cam out of the heads and wreck them. The same is usually true for just about any Phillips-looking screw on Japanese metric bike components, particularly the carbs.

[@Maraggie]

Hi. Thanks for your comment. It's a very good shout regarding JIS screwdrivers. I have to admit I still don't have a set and so far I managed to get away with not causing a great deal of damage to any of the screw but the fact that standard phillips ones do cam out is very real. All the best.

[@poopiepickle55214]

Dude your videos have been nothing but helpful in getting my bike right and now I love my volusia gonna do this next week once I review this a couple times

[@Maraggie]

Glad to hear it :) All the best.

[@TheBow2dan]

Thank you for making this video! Cleaning my volusia carb for the first time and this video and the one for taking it out has helped A lot!

[@Maraggie]

Awesome, glad it helped. :)

[@martinrivera2950]

Excellent video it also helped me out with a bike that was in storage for six years thank you very much keep up with these excellent videos

[@Maraggie]

Awesome, thanks for your feedback.

[@greenhills7790]

Invaluable video, thank you so much, gave me the knowledge to overhaul my carb which needed a serious cleaning.

[@Maraggie]

Glad it helped :)

[@bigboarmcs]

Very well made, very helpful and informative. Thank you.

[@Maraggie]

You're welcome. I'm glad it helps.

[@serge333666999]

Très bonne vidéo. Merci, merci beaucoup. Vous avez fait un travail qui rend facile cette opération de nettoyage de carburateur. BRAVO!

[@Maraggie]

Je suis très content que vous l'aimiez. Je vous remercie.

[@newcavemen6682]

I had heck of a time with taking out the funnel (starting at 10:15). The two screws holding the funnel would not budge. Ended up striping the head. Tried screw extractors. Still wouldn't come out. One left hand drill bit even broke inside the screw. Both heads eventual broke off. So the funnel is off but leaving two broken screws stuck in the holes. Used dremel to cut them off flush with the base. Then came up with an idea to weld the funnel to the carburetor because the broken screws got stuck and I didn't think they would come out and I didn't want to drill any further to risk messing up the whole carburetor. Long story short, I managed to weld the funnel to the carburetor using a flux core welder and got my 2004 Suzuki Volusia limited back to work after sitting for a few months and would shut off if giving any gas. Thanks for this video series that gave me great confidence to even attempt with this project. I followed the steps almost exactly, except this issue with the stuck screws. the only other difference is that my bike didn't have the adjustable air mixture screw. It's a fixed piece I can't even take out. Very happy to get this carburetor cleaned and the bike started and run normally with full throttle. Thanks for the time and effort in detailing the process!

[@Maraggie]

Hi. Quite a story! There's always something that causes unforeseen trouble. I'm glad you managed to sort it and got the bike running. I'm glad you found the videos useful, cheers.

[@quibley]

same thing happned to me, stripped the screw on the right, was able to use a screw extractor to get it out. the one on the left the head snapped offleaving about a 1/4 inch sticking up, but not enough room to get some vice grips around it to try to spin it out. going to try using a heat gun on it tonight. Funny thing is that the Clymer manual i' have says to use the Loctite Red which is permanent. but clearly its blue on the screw i got out.

[@victormezquita2723]

I am the owner of a Volusia 800 2001 and I need to clean the carburetor, this video will help me a lot to get the job done , thanks

[@Maraggie]

+Victor Mezquita You're very welcome. :)

[@Pappyman]

me too

[@Maraggie]

Fantastic :)

[@reefocean2010]

very nice video and useful thanks and solve all my doubts.

[@Maraggie]

Thank you very much! :]

[@BlueDevil1995]

very awesome video.... thank you!

[@Maraggie]

You're welcome! :)

[@idorenyinakpan]

I just pulled out my carb and took it apart. My bike was running short of fuel when i was sure the pump was discharging. i found a filter in d float chamber. the filter was completey clogged. i cleaned it out and d jets. for the first time i was able to push the bike to 160km/h. thanks a whole lot for the video it was the only reason i could attempt it.

[@Maraggie]

+Idorenyin Akpan That's what I love to hear. Thank you for watching and congratulations on fixing your problem yourself!

[@almarkhi]

Thanks a lot, it was helpful guide for me

[@Maraggie]

You're welcome.

[@phyllishurst5959]

Great video

[@Maraggie]

Thank you!

[@drewgsands]

Good job nice videos

[@normanbuffett4642]

Well the carb is out on the bench now I will review this vid again. I have never taken the carb out of anything. It is filthy outside. Lets see how it goes. Thanks for your inspiration and instructions.

[@Maraggie]

Fingers crossed for you :)

[@oliverakers43]

Great video, i am currently working on the carburetor, it was very dirty, hope this cleaning stops the sputter at idling, I'll let you know. .thanks,..oliver

[@Maraggie]

Hi Oliver, glad to hear that. I just posted a review of ultrasonic cleaner that massively helps with carb cleaning. I recommend it. All the best.

[@The444Life]

Excellent video. I am also very impressed how responsive you are in the comments. I bought a 2004 Volusia project bike a few weeks ago and am in the process of restoring it. When I pull the carb I plan to replace all of the jets per your recommendation in these comments, but are there any other items in the carb I should replace while I’m at it? Also, do you recommend a parts website to purchase these items? I’m located in the USA. Thank you!

[@Maraggie]

Hey Philip. Thanks a lot for your comments, much appreciated. With regards to the parts needing replacing, they'll depend on what you find when you open the carb up. Usual suspects are bowl gaskets (hardened, crumbling), float valves (wear on rubber tip), diaphragms (holes, tears). Rest should be fine. I always replace all bolts with new stainless allen bolts so it's easier to rebuild next time. If the bike is really in rough shape, it wouldn't hurt to replace all hoses as well that are connected to carb. Hope you'll find working on the bike enjoyable.

[@patrykplichta6224]

Thank you so much for that video. I will be cleaning my carb this weekend. Idk why yet but I think it my be carb causing my bike to turn off , or it might be some electrical issue gonna try to figure out this weekend. ( when I turn on my 2004 Volusia it turns off after approximately 5 sec )

[@Maraggie]

Ot ciekawe. Wylacza sie z powodu elektryki czy braku przeplywu paliwa?

[@nemesismaj]

thank you

[@Maraggie]

nemesis Major You're very welcome :)

[@mikenolan981]

hey maraggie I have exactly the same bike as you what filter do you use? I need to replace mine but don't want to get the wrong one or have to rejet it thanks

[@Maraggie]

Hi Michael. Do you mean the air filter? I Use stock one, like this one: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Suzuki-Genuine-Intruder-VL800-2001-2004-Air-Filter-13780-41F00-000-/321249523565?hash=item4acbf6b76d:g:U7wAAOxy4t1Sg~M1

[@LiquidClen]

Do you know a good place to replace the O and the ring to seal the float bowl? Mine are either lost or brittle

[@Maraggie]

This place www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-vl800_model16312/ will give you fantastic photos with all parts numbered (OEM numbers). Then you can go to sites like wemoto or simply ebay and search for parts using the OEM number. Let me know if you need help with that.

[@noizee184]

What is that hose on there you left on near where the throttle & return cables connect? Doing mine and cant remember what it was

[@Maraggie]

Hi Luke. If I remember correctly it goes to pair valve on left hand side of the engine. Have a look at the previous video on how to take the carb out and about mid way it's quite visible where it sits.

[@richardquillen5948]

Thanks for the video! But I have a really bad habit of taking things apart and not putting them back together properly. I understand obviously everything would go in reverse order, but I would really benefit from a follow-up video. If you have another opportunity to put a similar carb back together, please share!

[@Maraggie]

+Richard Quillen Hi Richard. Thanks for the comment. Winter is coming, bike is parked up (more lack of time than dislike of temperatures). Come sprint I'm very likely to get carb out, this time to replace all jets and I will make sure to record everything, including assembly after the job is done.

[@brandont8040]

@@Maraggie, have you done a followup video for reassembly yet?

[@Maraggie]

Hi Brandon, Unfortunately not. I sold the bike to new happy owner quite a while ago.

[@MrCbell57]

Is it not necessary to put the carbs in a vat once parts are all removed? I have one that was sitting for 20 years with just 1200 miles. The floats and bowls are solid built up with, whatever gasoline turns into over time. Its a carb for a 1400 cu, 1996 Suzuki. Thanks!

[@Maraggie]

Well it does depend on the carb condition of course. So if they're really bad, an ultrasonic bath is highly recommended (as I review and how in other of my videos) All the best.

[@martinrivera2950]

Hello do you have a video on how to adjust the float, thanks

[@Maraggie]

Hi Martin. Unfortunately no. I no longer have the VL800 so can't record it either. It's very simple though...you adjust the float by gently bending the metal bit that holds the float valve. Drop me an email (you can find mine in "About" section of my channel) and I should be able to send you a page from the manual that describes how to do it.

[@32vquattro10]

I would update video to address the small o-ring next to the diaphragm. Mine was missing, and created a vacuum leak that mimicked a bad diaphragm. I do have a question in regards to the air jets located under the mini velocity stack(appears to my that’s how it functions anyway) in your video, you remove the two air jets. There is to reference to the second smaller air jet in any of the parts fiche I have seen. This would be the jet that supplies the accelerator pump. The one I removed from my carb is stamped with immunity logo and 1.9. The orifice seems quite large, almost as large is the 155 main chat I installed. I cannot find any 1.9 Mikuni air jet that remotely resembles this jet.

[@Maraggie]

Hello. Can't redo the video I'm afraid as the bike is no longer in my possession. As for the smaller air jet, you can find them on ebay when you search for "genuine mikuni air jet 1.9"

[@hdotdolla1]

Hey!!! Great video. I'm about to do a rejet on the 03 suzuki volusia intruder. Is it basically the same principle as taking the carb apart as you show here? Anything extra I would need to know? Do you have any links to a carb rejet I could watch? Thanks for your time!!!!

[@Maraggie]

+Kirk Helmandollar Hi Kirk. Yes, exactly the same..you got the same year as mine. Anything extra..hmm... why re-jetting in the first place? Normally you have to re-jet (and by that I mean putting in larger size jets) when you replace exhaust and air filter. If it's just the exhaust then you probably don't have to. I've ran Jardine Rumblers and now I got V&H Pro Pipe (just uploaded new video) and for neither I had to re-jet. By the way...the actual re-jetting is simply unscrewing jets out and screwing new ones back in..so nothing complicated. Any questions, don't hesitate to ask, I'll be happy to help. In fact, I will be recording another set of video soon, where I will be renewing my jets after winter so all will be covered in detail.

[@hdotdolla1]

+Maraggie Thank you very much for the reply. I am having some issues with the bike so I am completely redoing the fuel lines, vacuum lines, new fuel pump, and decided to rejet while I'm in there. Also I figured with the new pipes it may give me a little boost in horsepower. Hahaha. But anyways, thank you so much for your reply. Very very cool of you. BTW..... Would I need to buy an entirely new air filter fixture or can I just buy a new k&n filter and get decent effects?

[@Maraggie]

+Kirk Helmandollar No worries, that's why I'm here :) Always happy to help if I can. I understand now, it's a good thing to do on our age bikes.. re-doing lines is on my to-do list as well at some point. What pipes are you putting on then? Remember that "boost to power" = worse fuel economy ;) but who cares about fuel economy :D As far as the filter goes, you can either get the full monty if you want to change that ugly rugby ball case ;) or you can get K&N filter that will fit into it. If you want to go wild you can get rid of the side filter all together by installing uni filter under the tank, directly on top of carb. :) Whatever you choose to do, let me know and I'll drop you a message with re-jetting charts (unless you already have it).

[@hdotdolla1]

+Maraggie You are possibly the coolest guy I've ever had the chance of talking to. I am planning on putting a set of cobra Slashdowns on the bike. Also buying a stage 1 jet kit. The dealer said they cannot get ahold of anything larger. So either way. And as far as fuel economy goes..... Well..... That's not why I ride Hahaha

[@Maraggie]

+Kirk Helmandollar :) Slashdowns are sweet pipes...long ones. And if I'm right they come with their own mounting bracket so you'll be able to throw away that nasty stock one. So Cobras, K&N and st1 re-jet... should be fun. I reckon the only thing that will be a hit or miss for you is the air/fuel mixture screw later as it'll have to be set correctly for right burning (so you don't run the engine too lean or rich) For that I recomment a tool called Gunson Colortune - it's effectively a fake, transparent sparkplug with a visor so you can see the colour of combustion inside the chamber (super cool when you see it first time) and adjust the mixture screw on running engine to get the perfect colour of explosion :D Now who said mechanics aren't cool :]

[@BuiltDifferent13]

What is the exact size of the fuel line on that bike? I want to run an inline fuel filter. I got to go buy some line but I was trying to figure out the exact size. It's 516 right?

[@Maraggie]

Hello. I'm afraid I've no idea. It's been years since I had this bike and I'm unable to check. Someone from community should be able to confirm, I'm sure.

[@xIKeroppi]

Hello, by any chance do you know how to screw back in the idle screw? Thanks!

[@xIKeroppi]

It won’t seem to catch for me

[@Maraggie]

Hi Mike. Idle adjustment? It's spring loaded as you've noticed so you might have to compress while turning it in for it to catch. Never had a problem with this bit to be fair. Let me know how you get on.

[@ryanschirra9375]

I’m rebuilding one now but need to go leaner on the jets does anyone know what Mikuni model it is or where I can get a jet kit?

[@Maraggie]

Hi. You can literally search for "mikuni jets" on ebay and pick the ones that look exactly like yours, just different hole size. I actually used some looking a shade different and they worked as well (smaller heads). Or you can go to WeMoto, Fowlers or similar and search by your bike model.

[@rustyshackleford5058]

I was having the hardest time taking the brass bowl bolts out and while shaking it a tiny tiny o ring came out, I had been following the video to the T so everything was apart. I know its not much to go off but any idea where it may have come off? It measures exactly 5mm in diameter, thanks

[@Maraggie]

Hello. That most likely will be an oring that sits on mixture screw with equally small washer. I'm talking about it at 14:00

[@rustyshackleford5058]

My mixture screw wasn't a screw but a solid brass piece with a pinpoint of a hole in the middle so I didn't touch it. I put the oring in the hole to the right of the screw holding on the diaphram in 8:40 as it looked like it went there, but your video didn't show one there. Waiting on a battery before I start it to see how she runs.

[@Maraggie]

Possible mate. Let me know how it runs :)

[@rustyshackleford5058]

Cheers, will do!

[@Scrizzy561]

That o ring that you said “not to lose” at 2:05. What’s the part number on that or what is it called?

[@Maraggie]

Hi mate, it's just an oring. Part number 1325106C10 You can get it from CMSNL or similar places.

[@Scrizzy561]

@@Maraggie thank you! Great video!

[@elmeralvarado7761]

No inglés, pregunta ese carburador es para zuzuki volucia c50 800cc?

[@Maraggie]

Sí, debería ser lo mismo.

[@muffinpookieful]

Hello friend, I am currently trying to get my carb off the bike... Ive found another video from someone else, but it is so blurry i cant really make out what he is taking off and from where. I am aware that the clips and pipes need taking off (done that bit), but I cant work out how to get the throttle cable off my bike. Mine is only a Suzuki Marauder GZ125, so its small and simple (he says). Im stuffed, and being in a village, there isn't anyone to call over for help... Maybe you can help me with a little video of how to get the carb out with a few instructions; or just a private message with what im doing. New to bikes and utterly clueless.

[@Maraggie]

Hi mate, on my channel I have a video showing how I'm taking mine out: kzbin.info/www/bejne/d528ip15e8l-gJY Perhaps it will be similar and will help you.

[@50caliber16]

I am working on a 2004 suzuki intruder. The air valve you show, mine has a brass plug in it with a small pin hole does that come out to access the valve or is it a closed system?

[@Maraggie]

Hello. Which one? Can you tell me the time in the video I show it?

[@50caliber16]

It's the air jets at 13 minutes my carbs, are just like these, but mine are off of a 2004 suzuki intruder. My air jet hole has a brass cap at the end of that tube with a pin sized hole in it. I tried to pry it out it won't go any where. I was wondering if there is an air jet in behind there or not? I was also wondering if you know how to set the float height or if you know what the specs are. Have you done a video on how to put that particular carb back together?

[@Maraggie]

Ah you mean the mixture screw (I wrongly called it air jet at the time). If your carbs was not touched before, there is a possibility that you will have a cap covering it up. It's a nasty piece of work as you will have to drill into it to remove it. I was lucky enough never to have these on my bikes. Carbs were always messed about with before me. Check out 2nd photo under this link: www.cyclepedia.com/pilot-screw-adjustment/ I bet that's what you mean. GUy there used a screw to take it out :) With regards to assembly, I'm afraid I haven't had a chance to record it. I sold the bike and it's now with a happy 2nd owner since I had it.

[@50caliber16]

@@Maraggie thanks do you remember the float height spec?

[@Maraggie]

@@50caliber16 As per manual, 7mm +-0.5mm tolerance

[@stevennicola2165]

Am I able to change the main jet without removing the carb

[@Maraggie]

Hi. Not likely. It's very tight around the carb and you need to take the bowl off, which is at your bottom left of the carb.

[@Pappyman]

failure :( I rebuilt my carb and my engine still sputters at low end acceleration. my 2001 Volusia is wonderful except for that fatal flaw. Any ideas?? I've even tried the air/fuel screw and it didn't do anything to fix it. so I put it back where it was.

[@Maraggie]

Hmm... 1. new jets? 2. float set correctly? 3. diaphragm without any holes? 4. fresh fuel? 5. does it start cutting out just as you start twisting the throttle? - that would be the point where fuel delivery goes from pilot jet to main jet - where I had my problems. 6. does it run good under more throttle?

[@Pappyman]

No new jets just soaked in carb cleaner for 24 hours, float set standard, no holes in diaphragm, fresh fuel, it only cuts out/sputters under load at low rpm such as from a top or up a hill, reving, idling and steady to high speed are flawless. The problem goes away if I have the choke engaged

[@Maraggie]

I would bet on the pilot jet. Sounds almost exactly the same as my problem. Soaking won't help, that bloody residue is invisible and doesn't come off. Once I put new pilot jet in, the problem disappeared. Now I replace jets every winter.

[@Pappyman]

update: brought it to a mechanic. I was missing an o-ring on the diaphragm, rejected slow jet from 27.5 to 32.5, set the mixture screw to 2 turns, shimmed the jet needle and bam! flawless throttle responses

[@Maraggie]

That's great! Well done on seeing it all through. :)

[@groovedrummer8235]

Have you ever tried to change the jets to have more power???

[@Maraggie]

Hi. I never ran anything else but stock air filter so no, I didn't. Didn't need it really.

[@jackiemonk5513]

I need info on setting time at cams f & R

[@Maraggie]

+Jackie Monk I don't know I'm afraid :/

[@user-ze6qk8iq6q]

Suzuki Intruder Volusia has a one carburettor for 2 cylindre's?

[@Maraggie]

VL800 does, yes.

[@tom12974]

im getting fuel in the carb buts it not coming out of the rail when u give it gas iv clead it still does it wat can it be

[@Maraggie]

Hi Thomas. How do you know you got fuel in carbs? If there indeed is fuel in the float bowl then it would suggest that your jets are blocked? Also, did you check when you twist the throttle that the butterfly in carb opens? Let me know.

[@tom12974]

i putt bigger jets in it runs great now also was because i had the air filter off didnt know u couldbt run with it off sucks to much air?

[@Maraggie]

Super. And yes haha.. I did that once...forgot to put the filter on and it was sucking so much air in that it didn't want to run :D I'm glad it's sorted.

[@tom12974]

thanks for the quick response

[@Maraggie]

Anytime. I'm happy to help. I just came back from holidays hence the delay in replying initially :)

[@ponca622622]

My needle diaphragm has two holes in it is that normal or would that be a vacuum leak?

[@Maraggie]

+ponca622622 Hi mate. No, the diaphragm shouldn't have any holes at all. Replace it at opportune moment.

[@ponca622622]

Two holes where the slide goes into the venturi . I thought that would be counterproductive losing vacuum. thanks for the info.

[@Maraggie]

+ponca622622 Can you show me a photo? Perhaps I misunderstood.

[@ponca622622]

It has two holes in the end of the piston where the needle goes across the opening in the carb. Looks like factory made that way I will take a photo and try to upload if need be.

[@Maraggie]

+ponca622622 I'm only relating to this: i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTM5M1gxNjAw/z/QEwAAOSwHQ9WXmnw/$_35.JPG Down below I honestly can't remember if there's any holes there. :(

[@sirkreitz4484]

how many turns, for the air jet?

[@Maraggie]

Hi. As the video says, count it by turning it all the way in until it's seated. Then you'll know how many turns out it will be when you're assembling everything back after cleaning. It's always best to set it the same as you had it before disassembly.

[@sirkreitz4484]

@@Maraggie ty for the follow up. I found factory set is 3 turns out. However Now that I have rebuilt/cleaned my carb, I cannot get it to start. My original issue: Bike started, black smoke out of exhaust, engine would not stay idle, and bike would die out. based on symptoms, assumed carburetor issue. Current Issue: Cleaned and rebuilt carb. Now Bike wont start. Any suggestions?

[@Maraggie]

@@sirkreitz4484 Hi. Black smoke would indicate either very rich mixture or poor spark. If you've assembled the carb correctly, I'd ask if you changed anything else on the bike... new air filter perhaps?

[@sirkreitz4484]

@@Maraggie thanks again for follow up. I managed to get her started and running. I then further tuned the “fuel mixture screw” (I found out it’s not “air screw”) and had decent results. I reduced the black smoke to be almost none at idle, but noticed it would puff a black smoke under high rev. I further adjusted fuel screw and idle screw, but overstepped the adjustment, to which she died out on that last adjustment. and now can’t get her to start again 😅😓 back to square one, resetting fuel mix screw… This brings me to 2 questions… 1) what should the idle screw be set to? Full open/closed/mid…?? When re tuning the fuel mix screw? 2) am I doing anything horribly wrong? Or am I on right path? Please be candid as needed… I appreciate any feedback 🙏 Also I have not done any other changes to airflow/filter. However I will look at the filter and see if it needs replacement. Ty for that suggestion. I also ordered replacement plugs, just incase spark is bad/ or needs replacement.

[@Maraggie]

@@sirkreitz4484 Hi mate. Idle adjustment is fairly easy. The more you turn it in, the more the butterfly opens. This just controls how quickly the engine idles and when you turn it out too much or close completely, it'll keep dying. Rule of thumb - start with butterfly opened just a tiny bit to let some air through. Once you have this set, the bike should start and then you're just tweaking the fuel mixture. If you want to be close to perfect, I recommend something called Gunson Colortune. It's a special sparkplug with a view slot so you can see the color of detonation inside the engine. This will allow you to set the mixture close to ideal. Keep at it, you'll get it right eventually.

[@normanbuffett4642]

finished cleaning now it runs worse than before. back to the drawing board

[@Maraggie]

have you replaced the jets with new ones? What's the symptom of running worse? perhaps it's starting to run good for the first time and something else needs adjusting now

[@normanbuffett4642]

same jets just took out cleaned replaced. wont run without choke. choke out to start, choke in dies instantly. before it ran bad at idle and slow but would run without choke

[@Maraggie]

1. Mixture screw adjusted by the same amount of turns? 2. is the choke valve correctly inserted back? 3. did you by any chance bend float valve adjuster? 4. always good practice to replace jets with new, even if old look pristine 5. how did you clean the jets? if you scratched them inside, they're toast

[@normanbuffett4642]

first let me thank you for your help. after reviewing your and other vids on this I see some issues. when removed mixture screw oring and washer not attached. float valve adjuster? choke valve? is that the plunger? I will get back into it this week too hot now. get a rebuild kit. I will have it up by Biketoberfest next month. cleaned jets spraying carb cleaner through them used very small wire and spray on pilot. could the mixture screw be the culprit? let all jets soak in carb cleaner 1 hour. replaced bowl screws with steel socket head screws. thanks again

[@Maraggie]

Sorry. float sits at a specific angle thanks to the small metal bit on which the valve hangs. If you bent that then the float would sit too low/high and mess things up. (when you run on choke that whole system is bypassed if I'm not mistaken) Yes, I meant the plunger lol... not a good day for me with words :D That wire in pilot jet... ugh... Reason I'm cautious is because it just took some residue for mine to run bad... a scratch can probably be worse. Mixture screw...hmm perhaps not...it would only make the bike run rich or lean...not die on you like yours does. Did you spray cleaner through every hole in the carb?