Synthetic Oil vs. Conventional - A lab owner sets us straight.

[@Fu3R4]

My take away? DO REGULAR OIL CHANGES!

[@blythkd9017]

I've been telling fellow diesel pickup owners for years that Shell Rotella T4 is all you need and the price is right, especially by the drum at Sam's.

[@peted2770]

Cheap clean oil will always beat dirty expensive oil.

[@benniestander2725]

Whether you use synthetic or conventional oil, as long as it has the API classification and the correct weight specified by your manufacturers manual it's fine. Just change it regularly.

[@boatman222345]

Every month when I get my cable bill I go "Wow!" because it's more than I used to pay for rent. But then I run across an excellent video like this where I learn extremely valuable info and the cable bill doesn't look so bad. I had Blackstone to an oil analysis on my Subaru Forester some years ago and it was well worth it. Great company and it was a pleasure to meet the owner. Thanks!

[@pcrb141]

How did it make a difference for you and your car?

[@marknease1631]

@@pcrb141the lab report, based on the additives in my oil, showed I was changing my oil too soon, which was around 10% on my Honda’s maintenance reminder. Not sure I can run that maintenance reminder through one cycle, 100% to 0%, reset it, and run it through a partial countdown a second time before I change my oil. To answer your question - probably didn’t change anything - a little piece of mind, but more of a waste of money for me and my vehicle use. Everyone says their oil brand is the better one. - for information only - this was Mobile One Extended Performance High Mileage oil, which was my first time using it.

[@GYccUsefultips]

The best oil is always clean oil.Most people do not even change it when required

[@theroyalcrownedtiger2946]

Especially with the people that have the cheap mentality, or the mentality of, if it's not broken, don't service it.

[@CuriousKL]

What they do not mention in this video, is the actual difference between conventional and synthetic. The molecules of synthetic are nearly identical in size and shape, where as conventional have all different size and shapes. So, the synthetic proves to cover the bearings with higher consistency and uniformity.

[@ThaexakaMavro]

the fact is full synthectic is only 25 to 30% synthetic you need 100% synthetic for your statement to be accurate

[@chang.stanley]

Maybe you're taking the marble analogy a little too seriously lol. I might be wrong but, I doubt uniformity makes any difference outside of being more optimal molecules. It's not like the oil films are 1 molecule thick

[@akdomun]

@@ThaexakaMavro The best chance of getting a full synthetic is getting oils made in Europe or EU formulations such as many 0W30 oils. You're right that the definition of "full synthetic" in North America is skewed and does not mean it's 100% synthetic.

[@jameskrug9938]

I'm a chemist and I find it very, very odd that Mr. Stark does not mention that synthetics are much, much more resistive to oxidation (breakdown) over mineral oils?!?!

[@mcspikesky]

He sorta skims over it, saying with regular changes it's not an issue.

[@Mike80528]

@@mcspikesky That's really the crux of it. If you change your oil every 3,000 miles it really doesn't matter (that's based on a flawed study anyway). If you want to run longer oil change intervals (OCI's) then the formulation matters. The exceptions would be high-performance engines (turbo - high temps, or hi-RPM motors) as they will break down the oils faster. Bob Is The Oil Guy is a great forum for oil related information.

[@LoveLikeaHurricane]

@@Mike80528 agree, all these videos that talk about how synthetic isn’t necessary fail to mention that for high performance applications such as racing, oils shear and break down, which may require a stronger synthetic oil

[@rolandrodriguez3854]

My sentiments exactly.

[@anonymike8280]

That, in practice, goes to the issue of oil change interval. My sources say, up to about 2800 miles in normal driving, the performance of synthetic and conventional is about the same. Only after that does the performance of conventional fall off compared to synthetic. Myself, I have a vehicle with a late 1990s cast iron block import engine. I use semisynthetic and change it at 2800 miles based on all short trip driving. I worked that out before I did any of my recent research. The important thing is to match the specifications of the product used, the specifications of the production and the type of driving. My driving is considered severe duty. Going out for a snack or going to the supermarket doesn't feel severe, but it is.

[@saabmagicman2588]

Supertech Synthetic for me. With 10 cars, cost savings adds up. No real reason to use expensive premium brands.

[@GYccUsefultips]

I've been using SUPERTECH for years..And you are so right..It is affordable and pretty good

[@theroyalcrownedtiger2946]

I use these brands of synthetic motor oils : Mobil 1, Castrol, Quaker State, Pennzoil, Valvoline, Total, Havoline, Peak, Shell, Agip, Royal Purple, Redline, Amsoil, Lucas, Motul, Liqui Moly.

[@morrisdennis]

Supertech is fine...

[@lotus956]

It’s not hard people. Change oil and filter at good mile intervals. That’s it. People try to make it harder than it really is.

[@dk2428]

Totally agree. Been running regular 10W40 in all my cars for over two decades now.

[@benniestander2725]

There is no substitute for regular oil changes. No matter if its synthetic or regular

[@gikaradi8793]

words of wisdom!!

[@oyetos]

You know what I'm gonna use, what I have been using in all of my cars that get passed 200k plus, Full synthetic and I don't give a crap what anyone says. Go ahead and listen to whatever you all want.

[@Resistculturaldecline]

I've driven work trucks with 400k-500k that had basic oil all their life's. One was pennzoil regular, the other had Parts Master from the shelf of the company it belonged too. The secret and common denominator is they were changed on time, or roughly so. They were both running fine when I left, not sure how many miles they eventually lived

[@r.lavernemiller5665]

I have a '16 Silverado manufacture spec is synthetic 0 20wt after 5 changes I now switched to Amsoil!

[@RandyRandersonthefamous]

I think project farm showed some demonstrable differences between the oils especially when it comes to wear. There is big difference between full synthetics let alone synthetic vs conventional.

[@danfecke]

They both are right!!!

[@arthursmith643]

Does this mean you don’t believe the guy that owns and analyzes oil in the lab. Project Farm has sophisticated equipment?

[@poopy_pants_joe1194]

@@arthursmith643 The Project Farm test isn't really applicable to a shell bearing. He does a wear-scar test, which does yield good info but I don't think it applies to rod bearings.

[@wesoblander3648]

Exactly! It is a free world, you gnome.

[@wesoblander3648]

Yes, he did. Todd did a wonderful oil on creating effective, practical testing methodologies across the board.

[@jameskoralewski1006]

Sludge is not caused by the type of oil used. It is caused by water accumulating in the oil because the car was only run on short trips (especially during colder weather) and the engine never got up to normal temperature to evaporate the water. That water eventually turns into acid which is a primary cause of sludge production. Not changing the engine oil frequently enough also exasperates the sludge problem.

[@applesauce1680]

I use "whatever is on sale". Me too, but I saved an additional 100k by not becoming a chemical engineer. Besides, as a seniored citizen I've never replaced a car or truck because of a worn engine. It was because by 250k mi the front end, electronics, everything was shot or near the end of it's life and it did not make sense to be paying a shop for a new this or that every 5-10k mi. 🤠

[@petewinningpresence]

Thanks Lee. Great video. I’m convinced. No more expensive synthetics for my SAAB 900. Better to use the cost savings from Walmart and change the oil more often! Sounds like a “no brainer.”

[@I_know_what_im_talking_about]

Expensive synthetics are a bragging luxury. You don’t need them for long engine life. Dexos certified synthetic can be had for $3.83 a quart at ChinaMart. That’s $23 for a 6 quart box. Why buy anything else? The Engine will outlast the rest of the car.

[@benevolentdictator2315]

4 Toyota Tacomas using conventional oil at 3,000 to 4,000 change intervals and each had over 400,000 miles with the 2002 reaching 510,000 before selling it for $3,100. All 4 trucks carried a 2,000 to 3,000 pounds of cargo daily. 1st truck had a manual transmission and the other 3 used automatics. I used Amsoil on a Suzuki RM 450f for racing with max of 13,000 rpms and compared the lab results with conventional oil and saw no difference in wear metals with oil change frequencies of 3 hours of ride/race time. Based on Ryan's testimony I will stick with conventional.

[@LeeKelso]

I am right there with you, with one exception. One benefit of going synthetic is the longer oil change interval. My SAAB convertible is a summer-only cruiser so I can get by with one oil change per year.

[@benevolentdictator2315]

@@LeeKelso Thanks for producing this testimony by an expert as it was very helpful as my conclusion was anecdotal and Ryan's testimony is thousands of experiences.

[@arthursmith643]

Irv Gordan had 3,000,000 miles on his Volvo. Changed the oil every 3,000-3500 with Castro’s GTX. Clean oil is best oil.

[@lonniebeal6032]

And for future readers, Supertech Full synthetic is $15.99 a 5 qt jug, less than some conventional oils and $2 more than Supertech conventional, so why use conventional at all...

[@colinnicols5387]

In that type of application doing 3 hour change intervals, wear differences would be minimal. Street application brings in many more factors. Length of service, length of sitting idle, stop and go, period of overheating, super cold starts, are all very demanding upon the additive package as well as the oil base. Plus, there is quite a span in the quality of additives even though their intended contribution to the performance of the oil is the same.

[@jamessmejkal8803]

Where are we going to get standard oil in the future if refineries are shut down? As it is planned on doing?

[@zachsheffield1325]

Sometimes synthetic oil is marked down to cheaper than conventional oil!?

[@jimolson8424]

I live in Minnesota. We live with big weather changes. I use synthetic oils. I change oil at 3 to 4000 miles , I use only Wix oil filters. My 95 F-150 still runs strong. It takes me to work every day in the cold of winter. I only use 91 octane fuel in my old Ford... It still runs like it's new....

[@robertleduc2216]

Running normal oil?

[@josecayente3417]

So did anyone else end up here because they just found out that most branded synthetics are only called synthetics, and are actually just conventional oils but with more additives and better refined versions than the bottles that say "Conventional".... lmao. I feel so fooled, I want to punch oil CEO's in the throat for this bullshit.

[@jameskoralewski1006]

Do you remember the problems with turbos on smaller Chrysler cars from the 80's. The car would be shut off, after just running their turbos, and the bearings would coke up the oil still sitting on them from the heat. Chryslers fix was to recommend using synthetic oil and they also added a circuit that would circulate coolant over the bearing area after the car was shut off. This cooling circuit would run for a short time until the turbo bearing had a chance to cool off.

[@TonyWilliampianoman]

Supermarket oils just great - been using them ever since they were available. But it's not as simple as this. Honda for instance need 0-20 or 0-30 in certain engines. Same with Toyota. Classic cars can need a heavy mineral oil. But I change every 2,500 miles, especially good for chain cam engines. Started doing my own from Morris Minor right through to today's cars on my driveway. What is a darned nuisance is all the plastic sheeting under modern cars needing removal first !!

[@316automotive9]

Walmart Super Tech, as long as its Dexos approved, you're gonna be fine & save a few bucks. One time, WM was out of the ST I wanted, so I went to O'Reilly's. They had their house brand (Dexos approved) & they matched the WM price. Nice! Maury

[@mkshffr4936]

Since I drive a 91 Mercury I don't have to pay the GM tax (dexos approved). 😉

[@williamray3101]

I got a 2007 chevy exspress 5.3 litre. 560000 miles run mobile 1. Sythetic blend.

[@robertleduc2216]

What brand of oil are you using

[@williamray3101]

Mobile 1 full synthetic wix oil filter

[@williamray3101]

Van has 560000 miles on it !

[@rubybranish9440]

Each to their own.

[@amazoidal]

Project Farm compared the Warren oils. They are all rated SN+. There are 4 brands. All Group 3. They are Walmart SuperTech, Costco Kirkland, MAG 1 and Amazon Basics. All the same. You can pay a lot more for SN+ rated Group 3 oil like overpriced Mobil 1, Castrol Edge or Penzoil Platinum. Don't run Group 3 over 5k.

[@ringodingo6945]

Thats It. Im putting in used Crisco in my 900

[@lenf2]

Yeah, but can you stand the smell of french fries everywhere you go?

[@rono3045]

Here's my opinion on it... The Walmart brand super tech full synthetic oil is not much more and I mean barely more than conventional so just go ahead and put the synthetic in it that's what I've been doing now back 10-15 years ago the synthetic was quite a bit more expensive but it's come down in price so that's what this deciding factor was for me. Run the sun.the synthetic really is a better oil they've done tests where they press hard on metal to metal spinning opposite directions the synthetic keeps spinning longer than a conventional it's proven the synthetic oil really is better but can you get $300,000 miles out of a conventional oil engine yes you can either way the typical engine is still going to get 300,000 mi as long as you change it every 3 to 5,000

[@CuriousKL]

I have used Amsoil since the the early 80's for the 2 cycle product. Began to use their 100% when they first introduced it. I've owned my share of vehicles that went well into 200,000 miles. I stuck with Amsoil, changing every 7,500 to 10,000 miles. Amsoil does state to use their filters, which I do, but the say 25,000 or 1 per year. I like to change it a little sooner. But, with said, I currently own a 02 Sierra with 215,000 miles, engine runs very smooth and quiet showing very good oil pressure.

[@weldorworx6858]

My uncle is a oil distributor . They ve told him since the 90s that synthetic oils do NOT have the impact capabilities of conventional oil ! Girlfriend has 07 sierra . 5.3 . Eveyone complains about the mystery noise in the 5.3 . It doesn't make any noise with conventional oil ! Ya put synthetic in it and youd think the motor was on its last leg ! Lifter noise , push rod noise . We were literally pricing a new motor for it when it clicked . I asked her did yiu take the oil change place some oil ? No i frgot 😔 Ran to checkers . Grabbed conventional oil . She had just came from the oil change place . Drained the synthetic . Put conventional oil back in it . ALL the noise went away again ! I tried synthetic in my chain saw . Ran it 5 mins and dumped it out ! Only thing i run synthetic in is my 30 year old shop compressor ! I run a durablend in my duramax . Best a both worlds !

[@davidlang4442]

Tore my engine down at 120000 miles.. no wear and most importantly, no sludge. But I did change my oil every 3-4 thousand miles. Mobil one 100 % synthetic, Mobil one filter used, changed with oil change.

[@LeeKelso]

I recall seeing a review that ranks the Mobil 1 filter the highest. That's what I'm using now as well.

[@amendopublicaccess5742]

Another great video. I really enjoy these videos, along with your other videos. Always a good day to see an notification that you uploaded!

[@LeeKelso]

Thanks. That’s about the best compliment I could hope for.

[@jameskoralewski1006]

You need to find out the base oil classification to see what type of oil it really is. Base Oil Groups. Almost all industrial lubricants now come from base oils. The American Petroleum Institute (API) has 5 base oil designations. The first three groups are derived from crude oil (mineral oil); Group IV base oils are fully synthetic; Group V is for all other base oils not included in Groups I through IV.

[@danh8302]

Costco/Kirkland branded oil is Warren Distributing also. 10 quarts for $33 or 34 now, was 29 about a year ago.

[@tomhummel2641]

I think there is not one single simplified answer. There is a large difference between old heavy SAAB engines and twenty years younger light metal engines which need a lot of additives. The long oil-molecule chaines do not break down fast in a synthetic oil but the additives wear out. The oil may concist of up to 25 percent of additives. Please also take into account the green perspective, how much oil are we going to use one each engine during a lifetime. Hopefully the used oil is well re-used wisely. Greetings from Norway!

[@trackpackgt877]

I love Blackstone labs use them every oil change cool to see the lab and how it works!!!! Thanks

[@largelarry2126]

We are lucky to have both a Sam's Club and a Costco nearby and they go back and forth each month having Moble-1 on sale around $26.00 per case. We have three Toyotas and buy our OEM filters on Ebay from Toyota dealerships.

[@zachsheffield1325]

In two-stroke engines and race engines. It makes a massive difference between full synthetic and conventional!! They run much smoother on full synthetic!!

[@justanobserver530]

I've heard and seen many people, including experts, say conventional oils are just as good as synthetic. I suspect they are correct but 30 years ago I used Harley oil in my Harley. Thinking there must be something special in the Harley oil, for the ridiculous price they charged, I found out there was nothing special about it...except for the bottle it was in. I put synthetic oil in and quickly found that the oil tank under the seat stayed much cooler and the mileage went up from 50-55 mpg with conventional oil to 55-60 mpg with synthetic. This was 30 years ago and I know they have changed the additives in oil since then. Maybe one is no better than the other but my old Harley as well as every engine I own has been using synthetic since .

[@wrongplanet1957]

3000 miles

[@duaneclarke7411]

Mate that was a great interview I learnt a lot thanks

[@craigsmith8217]

The only differences I could tell are: 1. If I run conventional, after an oil change the car seems to run better. With synthetics, the car runs the same. Maybe a difference in viscosity from old to new? 2. My 140k Mazda started using a quart of oil between oil changes. Someone recommended switching to conventional oil and it stopped the oil consumption.

[@brucek.hoffman5868]

sorry, butt my car ( lexus nx200t ) ran mucho better / smoother after my mechanic drained the CRAPPY m1 & put in AMSOIL, plus i got & continue 2 get BETTER mpg... oh yah, same viscosity & it was 1st oil change... BTW 3 yrs. 2months & 2 days of use on that AMSOIL... maybe, just maybe u should change 2 AMSOIL XL ( 5w20 iz wut i think u use )... i wood throw in a qt. or 2 of XL 10w40, made 4 high mileage cars... i've used it in a couple of oil using / high mileage cars, & it has worked 2 help stop oil usage... hope it was a good guess @ using 5w20, i did not know yr. or model of ur mazda... my ZO # 5149186 fone #1-708-870-7573, live in joliet, ill...

[@craigsmith8217]

@@brucek.hoffman5868 Oil is the lifeblood of your engine. Keep it clean and full, just like you would your blood.

[@jameskoralewski1006]

The current highest API specification for oils is SP. The API will tell you nothing about what type of oil it is. It must be a base oil designation of a group 4 or 5 to be truly a synthetic oil. Castrol Syntec is not really a synthetic because its base oil is group 3 (a conventional mineral oil) but they just refine it higher to be able to call it synthetic on their bottle.

[@jimn.9990]

Rafe Britton, a former lubrication engineer at Mobil (and the producer of a number of KZbin videos on the Lubrication Explained Channel) had indicated that 100% synthetic means it exclusively contains PAOs and Esters. Typical full synthetic oils contain a majority of hydrocracked petroleum oil. There is a line of full synthetic oils oils that are liquidified from natural gas considered to be Group III+ (such as Shell, Pennzoil and Quaker State), which are considered to be better than hydrocracked petroleum oil. Amsoil’s 100% synthetic motor oil, gear lube, ATF and CVT fluid, are a combination of PAOs (Group IV synthetic) and Esters (Group V synthetic). I mention “100% synthetic” fluids to differentiate them from “full synthetics.“

[@morrisdennis]

Clean oil and the correct grade.

[@turbo3492]

My Brother has a Saab 900 Turbo (the full blown version).He changes the oil every 5000 miles and has never had issues with the Turbo or anything else.He uses Motul 100% synthetic oil,it seems to be lasting well enough 514,000 miles.I think he will stay with Synthetic.

[@LeeKelso]

Hard to argue with a positive performance history. I typically change my oil once a year. As it's a summer car, that's usually about 7500 miles.

[@colinnicols5387]

And Motul is one of the lower quality synthetics yet he still got great performance. Synthetics rule!

[@gikaradi8793]

@@colinnicols5387 How do we know that ? thanks

[@Mrguitarcraze]

No real mention of acidity. When those metal gaskets start leaking due to corrosion, maybe the extra 20 bucks for amsoil wasn’t that bad. Besides, you could probably benefit from fasting by missing a meal from time to time to pay for the difference.

[@danfecke]

I have read to meet current specs all oil have synthetic base stock.

[@colinnicols5387]

I have my doubts about that. If it were true, I would expect to see it on the labels and in the price. Additives are often synthetic and unless the rules have recently changed, an oil manufacturer/packager needs to have only 3% synthetic material in their oil to be able to call it "synthetic".

[@amazoidal]

Conventional oil has an affinity for water. Also lower flash point. Flash point is important for turbo bearings. Low flash point causes coking in turbo bearings and in the top piston ring. I can't believe that Ryan did not make a distinction between phony synthetic Group 3, and Group 4/5 real syns like AMSOIL Signature, REDLINE, Royal Purple, and Joe Gibbs Racing (made by one of the previous 3 companies). Only in the U.S. do you have Group 3 "Syn" with no synthetic base. In Germany and Japan, if the word "Synthetic" is on the label, it must be at least Group 4 or 5. Jet engines use Group 5 Ester-based oils. Those jet engine bearings have no cooling system. That temperature would fry a Group 3 "hydrocracked" oil.

[@anonymike8280]

But the specifications of Group V are not required by most automobile engines. What makes a difference is staying within the specifications of the product you are using. On the ground, that means maintenance interval.

[@chippyjohn1]

In a jet engine, the oil actually is the coolant, more so than a lubricant.

[@amazoidal]

Oil is the only "coolant" but there is also the bypass of air around the engine. The air upstairs is cold and that helps tremendously.

[@chippyjohn1]

@@amazoidal The bypass air does not cool the bearings, that is the role of the oil. Turbine engines became much more reliable when they started using group 4/5 oils. Something the aviation community recognises, yet those in piston engines still want to use mineral oil because of leaded petrol.

[@amazoidal]

More Group 5 (Ester) than Group 4 because Ester has better heat resistance. Last time I checked, a quart of "Jet Oil" was about $30. European real synthetics like Motul and Liqui-Moly are also high in Ester.

[@herbmaloid8752]

Quaker state conventional for me.#1- New 09 chevy truck 5.3 would wrist pin rattle on cold mornings with mobil one synth, penzoil full synth, and supertech full synth. Went away with QS Conventional. #2- Brand new dodge with 3.6. cam follower tick with any synthetics... went away with QS Conv. I think the synth flows faster in cold, but does NOT HOLD on parts after shut off overnight. ( it runs off or something) I Hoard conventional oil. Just my 2 beans...

[@user-pq6mr6op3p]

Wrist pin rattle? 🤣

[@herbmaloid8752]

Yup. 5.3 are known for it.@@user-pq6mr6op3p

[@DragonsREpic]

back in like 2016 i never got my results, i just got a sample results, they said they will do it free next time no clue what that was about

[@fowvee]

I find that buying a lubricant based on performance specifications delivers the most bang for the buck. If my vehicle requires a Dexos 1 specification and a blended product meets that requirement then it's not cost beneficial to spend more money. I own a European car and it requires a specific performance specification which is simply not met with basic mineral oils or most synthetic blends so I have to spend the money to get the rating. When my Toyota requires nothing more than API and ILSAC ratings then I see no reason to spend more.

[@brucek.hoffman5868]

if u r referring 2 AMSOIL not having Signature Series dexos stamped on label, u don't know u hav 2 give general motors their formula... not going 2 happen... butt it formulated 2 EXCEED dexos 1 gen 2 specifications... benjamin moore paint won't give up formula 2 get LEED certification on @ least 1 of their products...

[@fowvee]

@@brucek.hoffman5868 No, not making any reference to Amsoil. Not sure where that idea came from.

[@wesoblander3648]

If we wish to trash your Amsoil, we will. Period. Go foam at the mouth elsewhere.

[@morrisdennis]

Valvoline and castrol dino is hard 2 beat...

[@jameskoralewski1006]

Plumbers never fix their own plumbing, either.

[@seanprudente4934]

Ya he sees the oil but doesn't see internal engine parts!

[@Nostradamus_Order33]

I make bio-diesel. Waste oil is filtered and converted to an ester. So, you are telling me that Synthetic Oil is bio-diesel?

[@MarkShinnick]

I've personally settled on 7500 with syn.

[@thetechlibrarian]

That’s about where I’m at unless I know that I have done some abnormal driving. I have see the oil In pretty bad shape at 4500-5000 but that’s rare for me. Really the whole issue is there’s no blanket answer for everybody 10,000 is too long for the average person that doesn’t check or pay any attention to the driving style 10 becomes 11 or 12 five is probably a good starting point for somebody that doesn’t pay attention or care to pay attention, and I think 10 is probably fine in the most perfect of circumstances

[@MarkShinnick]

@@thetechlibrarian Gets even more interesting with Franz type bypass filters and certain additives but Yeah it boils down to individual circumstances.

[@Sam_Molina]

Great video! Very informative. Thanks.

[@LeeKelso]

Glad you checked it out. What would interest you in the future?

[@frederickburns1739]

As a retired CAT&CUMMINGS diesel mechanic I've been using Mobil Delvac 15W40 since the mid seventies in everything I own including my BRIGGS AND STRATTON 3.5hp push mower and it lasted twenty five years. Currently I use Rotella 5W40 synthetic in everything including my 5 or 6hp Honda push mower. And my old 96 F250 when I switched to the Rotella 15W40 synthetic it went from 250 miles per tank to 275 miles per tank I couldn't complain!!! So when YALL figure it out do a VIDEO and inform the WORLD and you will still have the NAY SAYERS!!!

[@user-pq6mr6op3p]

The only mechanical job you ever saw was when you had a dream about it buddy.

[@stephenmorrissey1254]

I use synthetic solely because it gets down to -35 C around here.

[@seriouskite]

Just got off the phone with Blackstone Labs, asked about testing for Full Syn. vs. Conventional. I have been skeptical about the "Quickee In&Out Lube and Tunes" We pay premium for Full Syn., and are we getting conventional? Blackstone does not test. WHY? According to the analyzer, do not have the equipment. After viewing this video, the difference is additives? WoW we are foooools! Since when did FULL not equal 100% Synthetic? Read between the lines, Ryan Stark nor I would want Big Oil gorillas stomping around with litigious threats. Sent in my samples anyway, WHO tests for Full Syn. vs 100% Syn? Think the answer is between the lines. Any comments welcome Lee Kelso, Ryan Starks

[@benevolentdictator2315]

I used Amsoil and conventional oil on 2 race bikes; Suzuki RM 450f (that would regularly reach over 10,000 rpm) l and could see no difference in metal wear over time with a change frequency of 3 hours. Pistons, rings, wrist pin and bearing are replaced at about 60 hours and lower end bearings replaced every 240 hours.

[@rtaggs8178]

Conventional has its strength when it comes to fuels. The race engines that run Nitro Methane use conventional because nitro methane eats up synthetic like no one's business concerning blow by.

[@CarlGraber-kt7ps]

When ever I used syn oil in my harleys, the engines and transmissions were much, much more noisier!

[@jonnyg44]

I made a huge mistake owning my first European car, ran mobil 1 10k changes 5k oil filter change and add a quart. Was in a sandy environment and blew up at 119k. I wouldn't go more than 3k-5k in anything European. Had a ford 6.8 v10 go 400k on 15k oil changes. Different things for different vehicles.

[@LeeKelso]

Like you, I run to 10k on synthetic oil in my wife's Mazda and my Volvo. Not a sweat. I drive the SAAB pretty hard, so swap that out every spring without a concern for the miles driven because it's a summer car. I'm usually about 7500 or so.

[@pcrb141]

Are you saying that you ran 10kmi oil change intervals on a 5000 mi oil filter?

[@jonnyg44]

@@pcrb141 no I would change the oil, run 5k, change the filter(add roughly a qt more of oil) and run 5k more before another change

[@pcrb141]

@@jonnyg44 I see, thank you

[@jameskoralewski1006]

What this jerk didn't mention is that most of the wear in an engine occurs during cold engine startup. He did mention that synthetic does flow the best when cold so doesn't that also mean that synthetic would protect an engine against wear better during your cold startups?

[@markobrien690]

He left out, "Pour Point". A non-syn can have a low enough pour point if made to perform., not be the low-bid winner or cheapest in a retail outlet. The real question is, "Do I need synthetic in my engine?" You have to use the acronym, " L.E.T.S....load-environment-temperature-speed.

[@ratsnyder23]

I donno about these new cars. Wish I still had my 850 Monte Carlo GT. Too bad I sold it.

[@morrisdennis]

Syn blend is ideal 👌

[@johnporter2804]

What happens when you mix brands of oil ?

[@LeeKelso]

Good question. It caused me to do some additional research. You can mix oils but know that with every quart of dino oil, you're degrading the performance enhancements of synthetic. That is, if there are any. As you saw in this video, the lab owner says that's not a significant concern for most motorists.

[@jovindahschannel]

oil is all about flow and lubrication and synthetics are thinn and it is good to flow faster and because of thinness less energy waste in engine moving parts and also horses will not gonna loss.. You just need to check your oil after 3-5 days and when you feel it need to be change then change it.. and there is no specific mileage for oil changes because its all depends on driving habits, invirement conditions and fuel quality etc.. do not worry about wear & tear its always there only you can slow it down with changing oil regularly.. there is no engineering greater than human and they are also expires! this is my opinion and i own my first car a year ago 😅

[@mkshffr4936]

If I am going to send in a first sample is there a recommended minimum interval for results to be meaningful?

[@marketingmajor8126]

The most meaningful sample results will be whatever your normal change-out mileage is per batch of oil. If you normally go 5k miles on each batch of oil then you will want to send it an oil sample from a batch of oil right before it's due to be changed out since it's those numbers that will be the most relevant in your case. One thing that has held consistent now over the many years that oil testing has been a thing is that people who go with 3k to 5k oil change intervals have very little to worry about regardless of what type of motor oil they are running as long as it's appropriate for the type of engine.

[@garyalford9394]

Down to common sense as usual.

[@RetrocarStyle]

Been waiting for your next video Lee......where u at mang???

[@TheManFrayBentos]

Terrible video sync issue at the start and awful sound level difference between Ryan and Lee.

[@LeeKelso]

I don't see that on my playback. Please give it another look and let me know the results.

[@arthursmith643]

Look on the back of a Walmart jug and the big name company jug at the same time. All the same fancy numbers and letters on the Walmart and big names are the same. API seal of approval that’s all you need to know. The oil passes that testing and your good to go.

[@LeeKelso]

Agreed. This session convinced me to buy oil differently and ignore the big name-brands.

[@charliesmith5545]

Sure if your driving an economy shitbox and never are hard on it. You put no name or cheap conventional oil in a race car or turbo car...it will have problems.

[@rubybranish9440]

WALMART SUPER TECH IS MADE BY THE WARREN OIL COMPANY, THEY'VE BEEN IN BUSINESS SINCE 1923. MUST KNOW SOMETHING 😃.

[@arthursmith643]

I guess the owner of the labs is lying. My neighbor had 850,000 miles on his 07 Honda Ridgeline before it died and got his oil and filter changed when his OLM light came on. $29.95 at the dealership. I don’t think he was getting full synthetic. You like fancy letters logos and endorsements? Pay more it’s your money. I know guys with well over three hundred thousand miles and only used conventional oil. Clean oil is best oil.

[@wesoblander3648]

Leave your stupid comments elsewhere. No oil on needs or wants your idiotic comments. Nothing anyone does is any of your business. Shut your mouth.

[@jameskoralewski1006]

If you end up asking yourself which oil is best for your car, conventional or synthetic, just ask yourself what type of oil is used exclusively in commercial jet engines? I used to work for an international airline and I can tell you that the only oil I have ever seen them put in their jet engines was synthetic oil! If the airline mechanics can trust it in their planes, I can surely trust it in my car!

[@chippyjohn1]

WOW, for someone with lab equipment, that was very disappointing.

[@MrMihailo82]

Motul 8100 eco-nergy 5w30 for me.

[@arthursmith643]

Irv Gordon over three million miles on his Volvo using Castrol GTX engine oil with changes every three thousand miles. Look him up a great read.

[@asphaltadventurer]

All I heard was "blah blah blah". I got more out of skimming the contents.

[@DataWaveTaGo]

At 15:20 *BMW = Broke My Wallet*

[@mikecacciatore543]

Amsoil is king.. you run the cheaper low grade stuff

[@tundy4959]

Prove it

[@hellwithit]

Lab owner huh! What’s his name?!

[@LeeKelso]

Ryan Stark at www.blackstone-labs.com

[@jameskoralewski1006]

Lab workers don't get paid much so they tend to be cheapskates. Of course, they are going to buy the cheapest oil that they can get even possibly from the Dollar Store.

[@Dcc357]

2:30 wink lol

[@thetechlibrarian]

I have to be honest his body language is a little suspect when asked what oil is in his car. I can understand why he might not want to comment. But I find it hard to believe the guy who works at The premier oil testing lab not only has his wife shop for oil but doesn’t know what kind he is using

[@marketingmajor8126]

Then you missed the whole point of what he stated. Blackstone Labs has been been collecting oil analysis data on used (and new) motor oil samples for decades now and has millions of samples so as to provide truly significant statistics and the summation of that data conclusively shows that frequency of oil changes is the most important factor when it comes to engine longevity and good used oil reports and not so much which specific brand or type (ie conventional vs synthetic) of oil was being used, as long as that oil meets the right specifications for the engine. So him saying he has his wife buy whatever is on sale actually matches perfectly the results that have been proven over decades through countless used oil analysis reports and that is that changing frequently makes the biggest difference and not so much brand or conventional vs synthetic. The man is going by decades of lab evidence.

[@jameskoralewski1006]

Ryan Stark is wrong again. Because of the heat and extremes produced by turbos, the government just came out with an upgraded API classification for GF-6A oils of SP. One of the improvements of this oil is specifically to help turbos last longer. Look up the new specs for GF-6A oils and read for yourself.

[@colinnicols5387]

If you run a turbo, you need Amsoil to get the best life. But I wouldn't run it 25K miles like a non turbo engine.

[@jameskoralewski1006]

You can be cheap and continue using your conventional oil. I'll keep happily using my full synthetic oil.

[@PWgadgets]

It's not about frugality. I drain out 11 quarts of Shell Rotella 15w40 every 1,500-1,600 miles with a fresh FoMoCo filter isn't exactly the cheapest option. The truck is from 88' with over a million miles on it. You don't need synthetic and you don't need UOA you just need to change the damn oil.

[@Midnight_Rider96]

@@PWgadgets why do you change it so often? Lots of idle time?

[@Midnight_Rider96]

Synthetic isn't even that much more expensive, super tech is like $3 difference for the 5 quart jug. Kirkland Synthetic is around $15 for 5 quarts. The real cost is when you go to a quick lube and they charge $80 for Synthetic

[@jameskoralewski1006]

@@Midnight_Rider96 Don't go to dealers, either, and have them do an oil change and install synthetic oil instead of conventional oil. They are exorbitant with their prices, too.

[@TheZmoney420]

It’s about the arguments and brands lolz

[@jameskoralewski1006]

These guys are not geniuses or rocket scientists. Their more like robots and just put your sample through programmed tests done by their analyzers and then report the results to the customers.

[@boetagamat9748]

Find it strange that Ryan can casually say synths don't have much over conventional oil...maybe his answers were just based on oil sample test results. In my opinion, besides cost, synth trumps mineral oil in every way but hey, i'm no expert lol

[@lenf2]

There is one question that is not addressed in that there is no distinction made between what the standard oils call a "synthetic oil" (which is actually blended regular oil with additives and a more refined petroleum based oil) and true 100% Synthetic which is the only real synthetic oil (like Amsoil 100% Synthetic type IV oil which is NOT petroleum based). All they are comparing is regular, Synthetic Blend and Full Synthetic oils (none of which are actually synthetic), which is not much of a difference, especially for the difference in cost.

[@josecayente3417]

This is literally what I was here to hear. I legit need someone to say "yeah the synthetics as they call them are just a LITTLE bit better than the conventional oils, so much so that you should just buy synthetic." However, we really don't ever get simplified answers. I'll just assume so due to the black stone owner saying he gets whatever is on sale.

[@lenf2]

@@josecayente3417 Yeah, I was one of the "unenlightened" ones who thought the oil companies were telling the truth (something about truth in advertising, which is supposed to be a law) about their oil being "FULL SYNTHETIC" until I started researching the matter. Then I found that ALL the oil companies had had a law suit about what can be called "synthetic" and that the FTC made a ruling that all they needed to do was to put certain additives in the oil to use that label. Then I found that there was really only ONE true synthetic oil on the market and that was the Amsoil 100% Synthetic (seems it HAS to say 100% Synthetic or it really isn't synthetic). Nothing like false advertising, eh? But then you get people like this contributor who perpetuates the lie by showing "comparisons" of "blended" and "full" synthetic, knowing full well that NEITHER is anything BUT blended. Always look for TYPE IV synthetic, it is the ONLY true synthetic oil.

[@josecayente3417]

lenf2 Are you going to start buying conventional? I’m serious thinking of just buying the cheapest conventional like STP and sticking to it forever for 10k mile intervals, because my vehicle literally calls for conventional & 10k intervals (non severe driving)

[@lenf2]

@@josecayente3417 No, I just changed my oil and filter and replaced the "full synthetic" I had been using with Amsoil 100% Synthetic (the only true pure synthetic oil). It made a significant change in the way my engine runs now. Of course there is a down side - mainly the cost. Amsoil costs about $13 a quart and the filters are about $16. The upside is you don't need to change oil as often. Amsoil advertises that the oil is good for 25,000 miles or at least 1 year without a change. I don't drive anywhere near 25,000 miles, so I suspect I will change the filter after a year and watch the oil for a second to be sure it doesn't look bad. Additionally, the pure synthetic lubes better and reduces the wear on the pistons and bearing and cylinder and such, so the cost of repairs goes down, which pretty much compensates for the cost of the oil. If you don't want to pay the price of Amsoil, then I would suggest buying cheap Walmart blended synthetic or even regular oil and just change it more often. But considering that even the cheap oils are from $5-8 a quart, and that you would need to change oil every 5-8000 miles, the cost of the Amsoil pays for itself, sort of a pay me now or pay me later effect.

[@metal1mark73]

Overrated Amzoil company put all the thumbs down!

[@gordselectronicshobby3853]

Sir, You have no idea what your talking about. Amsoil is one of the best if not the best oil to use.

[@brucek.hoffman5868]

YES GORDY, AMSOIL iz the best... i hav a '16 lexus nx200t w/35k & i just had my AMSOIL changed w/23,691 miles on oil... had it changed @ 11,060 b4 a trip 2 AMSOIL U... 3 yrs. 2 months & 2 days on orig m1, sending in oil 2 AMSOIL 4 testing soon... still was getting up 2 39/40 mpg @ 55mph... u could say i got my $$$ worth out of that oil... almost LOST an engine using m1 long b4 i learned about AMSOIL... so u know, i use & sell AMSOIL... i do wonder if that black hawk guy wood ever try 2 contact me after wut i said... don't think so...

[@rubybranish9440]

AMSOIL NUMBER 1, FOLLOW UP PENNZOIL ULTRA PLATINUM 2ND.

[@nonyabiz9487]

Oh Lort.... Debating with a Saab owner about what engine oil to use in there Saab is like debating guns and global warming to a Democrat. Its going to go no where accept losing brain cells and putting you to sleep.

[@marketingmajor8126]

😆