Synthetic Oil Controversy Explained...

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

Scott uses *Certified Labs* Synthetic Oil northamerica.certifiedlabs.com/products-motor-oils.html Our follow up video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/pnitoomHq7WHoKc

[@charliehamilton7840]

This website does not offer availability information beyond a phone number to contact a sales rep. Is this brand available off a shelf in Canada?

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

They’re not on shelves anywhere unfortunately. Only way to buy it is through a rep.

[@highlanderfreelancer4553]

Why does the factory tell you to change the oil but change the filter ever other time

[@stevem4621]

@@highlanderfreelancer4553 Lower cost of ownership. Same reason they say synthetics last twice as long. Better off doubling your filter costs and replacing the filter every time.

[@highlanderfreelancer4553]

@@stevem4621 it's over your head

[@wysetech2000]

I'm 70 years old and i find it hilarious that when i was young people were discussing and even arguing about engine oils and change intervals.I see that nothing has changed. I change my oil twice a year regardless of mileage with synthetic. Last time i changed it had only 3500Klm on it. With the pandemic i didn't drive much. I just made sure i had enough toilet paper to last until i'm 89.

[@tzerambo3140]

What brand are you using?

[@jonkreiser7757]

@@tzerambo3140 Kirkland Toilet paper is our family favorite!!! :)

[@wysetech2000]

@@tzerambo3140 Castrol Edge. I have used nothing but Castrol for over 50 years and never had an internal engine part fail. I usually drive them to at least 300.000. Good enough for me.

[@wysetech2000]

@@jonkreiser7757 HaHaHa...Me too. 👍

[@jonkreiser7757]

@@wysetech2000 Hard to beat the quality, it just goes the distance :)

[@Corb.ontheCob]

Tl;dr: the guy is saying that people who use synthetics go way too long between oil changes. Saved you a half hour.

[@drizler]

Corbin Blanchard Design That and short hop problems about sums it up

[@Magnamaxx01]

So its an issue of maintenance rather than the oil itself

[@Corb.ontheCob]

@@Magnamaxx01 Correct. This guy needs to work on his communication skills.

[@fbksfrank4]

How long is too long? I heard 5,000 was good.

[@andyamysarizonaadventures5450]

🤣

[@zachr21897]

A big thing with synthetic oil that people miss is that if they want more miles with the oil they need an oil filter that's up to that task, I've literally seen people go 10k with synthetic but they still had a filter rated to 5

[@grabbag6314]

Tell me why most manufacturers now say you only have to change the filter every other oil change? It make no sense to me.

[@16vjohnny]

Myth. You can’t filter out combustion byproducts unless you’re doing a bypass filter. If you’re clogging a filter in 10k then you have much bigger issues.

[@OutBackSmallEngine]

My old Ford Tempo is self changing. I just add a Litre once a month all is good. 😂🤣

[@isaiaslopez8974]

Holy crap, you still have a running Ford Tempo? Lol you're right, a quart a week basically Is a self changing oil change hahaha

[@Stahodad]

That is called a "Total Loss Oiling System" .. it was big back in 1919...Or your Tempo is a Semi -Diesel..lol.

[@fredwilliams7893]

LMAO. My tempo was the same. It puked trans fluid. To this day I think I was the only one that had a OEM body kit by Ford on mine all original black in clout with the red pin stripe. 😂

[@Venlaw]

My 88 3.9 Dakota was the same. Self refreshing oil system. :D

[@231mac]

We had a truck like that. We would just change the filter every so often

[@rickybroussard5350]

Being an Oilfield Mechanic for decades and working with both types of oil I personally found that synthetic oil is best in all applications

[@Davido50]

Truth. -Ohio

[@mudweiser007]

When it isn't your shit sure. No respectful mechanic will ever put that shit in his own stuff. Lick my taint

[@ginoasci]

Synthetic is not best in all applications especially in older cars and machinery because the gaskets, cork seals, and other materials they used prior to the invention of synthetic oil absorb synthetic oil and seep out. The mechanic on the left also explains that the thicker traditional oil makes up for the space within the cylinder area and the result is a tighter gap which allows the engine to run smoother. There are some really smart seasoned mechanics on KZbin that explain where, how, why, and the why nots of synthetic over traditional and vise versa. When the combustion engine was invented they designed a lubricant that would serve that specific purpose, but as technology advanced the materials and tolerances also advanced and the traditional oil can definitely help but the synthetic oils are better suited for these new higher performance engines. Best for all applications yes, as long as the synthetic oil doesn’t penetrate the seals and cause leaks, and can also offer a buffering effect.

[@jameskeyes1131]

I'd let that guy rebuild my engines any time. Honest, knowledgeable and experienced. The real answer for all this oil crap is the same as it's always been - preventative maintenance works. I change my oil and filter every 4000 miles in my car and 3000 in my bike and have never had a problem. No fancy oil, just regular Valvoline 10W-40 and name brand filters.

[@grabbag6314]

Bingo!! Change it regularly and often. Always change mine around 4000 and use Motorcraft synthetic blend as suggested by manufacturer 5w20 and Motorcraft filter. Almost 200k and never had an issue.

[@davegerrard6857]

Agreed!

[@Koogz406]

Just the way you said that, "I'd let that guy rebuild my engines any time." Or maybe it was the way you were licking your lips when ya said it.

[@selfoblivionalex6262]

@@grabbag6314 Nice! what Ford you Drive?

[@grabbag6314]

@@selfoblivionalex6262 I got a 34 Ford n a tank full a gas A mouth full a titty n a hand full a ass

[@MrJeffcoley1]

The main “problem” with synthetic oil is all the people who believe it’s magic and never change it

[@erictkd8]

@@ComputeCrunch idk i tried the brand name stuff in my 06 ranger and it burned oil and ticked like crazy, switched to supertech full synthetic after 5k miles and it purrs like a kitten.

[@rajeshchetty5519]

I agree,even if it's better it doesn't mean you can just put it in once and forget about it

[@moss8448]

yeah I change it each spring or if it doesn't look like melted butter...I've always heard tho if it was on dino oil never just go to a straight synthetic use a blend from there on...tried rotella synthetic once on a straight from the factory synthetic gas engine and the darn thing started leaking from the seals...dumb me trying to save a buck...live and learn.

[@erictkd8]

@@ComputeCrunch rotella gas,I was not happy with it at all.

[@davidrobbins4129]

Agreed i hate when people try tellen me at my shop oh "its synthetic just change the filter and top it off" like thats cool once not the rest of the life of the vehicle

[@danwerkman]

Nothing like the internet to pick apart every word of someone that is talking openly. We must always remember editing and context. Makes people reluctant to talk on camera. This guy has loads of hands on knowlage....Thanks for the great videos

[@LSswapGarage1]

So do quite a few of us commenting. If you want to do an open mike and post online... try and know what you are talking about in a how too... or be clear. Otherwise... don't post a video lol. It's just how it goes and nice to see this video to clear things up.

[@aluckyshot]

@@LSswapGarage1 so upload more. Your 2 minute video doesn't show your amazing skills leaving you just sounding bitter in the comments.

[@LSswapGarage1]

@@aluckyshot No thanks...I don't want to be a KZbinr lol. I would never load videos to this platform the way it is now anyway. And what amazing skills were in the first video beyond misinformation that got clarified here.. Watch the video and "learn" if you need too

[@justsayin3600]

@@LSswapGarage1 I just came across this vidro and when I heard him say a customer came in with his tractor and when he opened it up it was so clean he could eat off of it. The customer didn't need the work but that's what the customer wanted so he did it. That sounds just like a mechanic I stay away from. I'm of the mind set if it isn't broke or going to break don't fix it. If it's not preventative maintenance don't replace it.

[@juiceyou321]

Knowledge...

[@Mikey-lj4ch]

8 min. In and had to say that this man knows his stuff. Ive worked in an automotive/diesel machine shop for years. What hes saying is the truth. Spoken from experience. Anyways love your content guys

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

Thanks!

[@rickyparrish2570]

Says the guy wearing sunglasses and no shirt in a public picture.

[@bigmrfnB]

Project Farm has a great series where he tested a ton of a different types of synthetic oil.

[@repairvehicle]

Amsoil is the best oil!

[@fargonianproductions2767]

repairvehicle yeah but for $40? I’ll stick to using Rotella 5w30

[@repairvehicle]

@@fargonianproductions2767 ,40 for what? And how many times are you changing none synthetic Rotella?

[@Froto1976]

@@repairvehicle rotella is actually a great oil

[@Speeddemon3]

I was just thinking of Todd during the explanation :)

[@DFX2KX]

A big takeaway I get from this is: Short drives ruin cars, as does going over your oil changes, especially in combination.

[@nicoctane1669]

It helps to leave it running for a few minutes to get the parts warm with the oil. Driving right when it's started and the parts are cold isn't good for it.

[@dima-9646]

In the first month of Autoshop class in 10th grade we were told that short drives especially without warm up are very severe for engines

[@ferrumignis]

@@nicoctane1669 No, don't leave engines idling to warm them up, you are just extending the time the engine is running cold. Start it up and drive away, just don't thrash the guts out of it until warm.

[@redlywaxer]

And I will add, the shorter your daily drives, the shorter your oil change intervals or mileage should be.

[@nicoctane1669]

@@ferrumignis That completely goes against what mechanics told me. In the video it even says its not good how the engine parts are not even warm when you drive a short distance and shut it off. If you leave it running for a few minutes your engine can warm up and not just the oil so even if you only drive a mile or 2 down the road the engine is alot warmer than if you just started it and went.

[@bryoncovell6325]

As a shadetree mechanic, this video was very helpful. I never let my oil changes go that long, and always wondered why the manufacturer would claim such a long interval between simple maintenance. Just getting me to go from 3k miles to 5k miles was like pulling my own tooth.

[@steadyeddie7453]

The manufacturers (and Dealers) recommend longer oil change intervals because it is a selling point. Engineers have certainly calculated max oil change intervals that will get the engine past the warranty. Then it's your baby. How long in between changes? Just monitor the oil. If you drain it at 5K miles and its dark, black, or smells burnt you are going too long. Try 3.5K next change. Then fine tune from there to find your sweet spot.

[@anthonyvu749]

@@steadyeddie7453 or send it out to a lab and they’ll probably tell you that the oil is still good

[@Davido50]

Yes me too. 5k mis is max I go. -Ohio

[@lashlarue7924]

Amen, brother man.

[@Typersx1]

I thought everyone in the north used maple syrup. 🧐

[@Typersx1]

hangtime 7190 isn't that true. 😂

[@ryanaustin1970]

Maple syrup and beer 🍁 🍺

[@dadsdog1]

only in our ski-doo's eh!

[@chrismayes2149]

We run poutine gravy and cheese.

[@frankblack442]

Maple syrup is the same viscosity as 30 weight oil

[@herculesinwyoming]

I change my oil once a year on my 05 Silverado. It gets 99% highway miles and only 6000 miles a year. It looks superb under the valve covers after 15 years of ownership. Running Mobil 1

[@mjuberian]

I never change oil just add if needed... 387200 miles on my 78 Volare no oil changes ever..runs perfect run 10-40 Caseys general store brand

[@bumpygarage4291]

tilley Schmolph, if you are just adding oil then damn she must be burning it. But hey, if it works keep on going lol. Saves time with not having to replace it!

[@herculesinwyoming]

tilley Schmolph them old slant 6 won’t die

[@Jack-tx2ve]

I am sure plenty of people damage their engines after changing the oil by not priming the oil system. I have seen loads of people fire right up and the oil light is on for a bit, it can't be good. I always unplug the coil or cut the fuel on a diesel and run the starter to get a bit of pressure up and make sure the filter is full. By never changing the oil you never have this problem.

[@Jack-tx2ve]

@Gear Jammer yeah but think about the load on the crank bearings, little ends etc when you have explosions going on in the combustion chambers. It is nothing like when the starter is gently spinning the engine over. Plus if you pulse the starter and allow it to cool it will not hurt it. Remember alot of wear happens on startup under normal conditions. If that oil light is staying on the wear is massively multiplied.

[@RedEarthAA]

I used to work for an oil importer. We had one of the engineers explain the difference between synthetic and mineral. It comes down to film thickness and film strength. Mineral oil has a high film thickness and lower film strength and better for larger clearance engines specifically cast iron bore. Synthetic oils have lower film thickness and high film strength and better for tighter clearanced engines specifically more modern engines or chrome plated, electro plated bores like in off road motorcycles. In my old Toyota diesel I use mineral and change every 5000km.

[@Wayoutthere]

Same here, I run 20W50 + extra zinc (for mechanical flat tappets) in my old International V8 diesel. I once opted for going synth, but was shocked how THIN it was and didn't dared put in.

[@markmiller4220]

Rich this was perfect, absolutely love the discussion and the back and forth. I could listen this type of content all day keep it up.

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

Thanks. Scott is really knowledgeable and I have trusted him to do my work for the last 5 years

[@erikvanderhoeven8663]

@@DEBOSSGARAGE thank you so much. Every day we are learning This video i learned for a week. Keep up

[@edwarddouglaspierce]

Agree - love how it comes down to "change your oil" frequently and consistently. After 50K miles of dealer services (baked into price of car) and way to many "free multi-point inspections" that yielded too many "throttle body cleaning recommendations" I crawled under the minivan with my 16 year old son to show him how to change the oil. Love it. @UCLXV9vzJwgYOyGaZlD89VfA - I just purchased a Mityvac MV7201 to make retrieving "most" of the oil easier and only crawl under the Toyota's to replace the filters and do the final drain. Any experience with these that come with any feedback or recommendations? I'll be honest, I purchased it because we are now taking care of grandma's 2005 E320 and getting to the oil plug on those is terrible. I plan to drain the oil and then pour in a half quart of new oil to help the remaining half quart of old oil make its way to the suction line.

[@danhouse]

DEBOSS GARAGE is love to know which synthetic he is running. I’ve been using Mobil but if he has a better suggestion I’d love to know. Brand new sub. First video I watched.

[@whatsapoop]

@@danhouse OH GOD!!! You've done lit the fuse on the mother of all oil discussions ........ At family get togethers always avoid the subjects of politics and religion ........ on engine lubrication always avoid the subject of which is the better ...... conventional or synthetic and definitely what brand is best. I'm not subbing only because doing so may melt my notification bell and I only have one, no backup.

[@GreyBeardz]

Bottom line previous owner abused that engine. Oil type use is insignificant.

[@repairvehicle]

Do an oil analysis, you will be surprised.

[@seanbailey8545]

@@repairvehicle Oil analysis doesn't matter if the person never changed the oil...it's not the type of oil failing,it's the idiot owner not changing it.

[@repairvehicle]

@@seanbailey8545 , for idiot owners, oil analysis does not matter just like oil type they use.

[@joer8854]

@@repairvehicle You would not believe how bad people are. They talk about cars being shit and I ask them if they maintain their car. They answer, "I don't have to maintain my (insert favorite car or brand here) so that car is shit."

[@repairvehicle]

@@joer8854 , cars with direct injection is pure garbage and problematic. No matter how you maintain it still going to have Carbon build and engine problems

[@privateparty4900]

"That's the whole purpose of synthetic, It saturates everything...." Well hell, here I thought the whole purpose was to have uniform hydrocarbon chain lengths. For what it's worth I've pulled apart quite a few '60's and '70s windsors and clevelands that I'll guarantee never saw a drop of synthetic oil and many had the same dark staining. I think it has everything to do with the solids collecting in the oil and depositing on surfaces, not so much the oil. I've got a Coyote I've owned since new, all but one oil change has been according to the oil life monitor, a peek under the valve covers reveals clean aluminum.

[@randr10]

Yeah, I agree that there's no scenario imaginable in which synthetics are going to underperform, *except* when people try to stretch the intervals because they're getting a false sense of security fed to them by marketers about how intervals can be extended. When you drive it, how long does it typically run? On your car, at what mileage is the oil life monitor telling you it should be changed? I know at least on my early teen Ecoboost Fords they were recommending Motorcraft synthetic blend so the oil change intervals were like 7500mi or so. I've seen marketing on synthetics saying that you can run them 10, 15 even 20 thousand miles, which is when I think people are getting into trouble with synthetics, especially if they're typically running the engine less than 15 minutes at a time and heat cycling the engine that many times. Most of those synthetics will say in small print "or once a year" to avoid liability with these types of applications. I'd guess that's probably why the legal department signed off on the language in the marketing. A fleet vehicle that just runs constantly for an 8 hour shift is probably the target application for extended intervals.

[@cutdepiefails6596]

Good ammounts of detergent in the oil will help prevent deposits.

[@privateparty4900]

@@cutdepiefails6596 Yeah, detergent oil and sane change intervals. Once you've got a decade's worth of neglect built up on everything, I'm not sure anything short of a hot-tank is going to do much. Oil capacity has a lot to do with change intervals; don't try 9K miles with a five quart oil pan no matter what oil you're running. "The solution to pollution is dilution."

Yup

[@michaelfunk5951]

Private Party it’s the sulfur present in all mineral oils that turns to sulfuric acid under the stress of heat from combustion and sticks like glue to the interior of the engine and is present from then on and instantly starts contaminating every oil change done since the beginning. There’s also nitrous oxides which are blow by coming past the rings and especially noted in these all aluminum engines. It takes any and all lubricants down over a period of time even the best of synthetics. Fuel dilution also affects the life.

[@Taras-Nabad]

Although I agree about the short drives, you need to use your car when you need to use your car. The maintenance should match the driving habits. If you do frequent short trips, then the solution might just be to change the oil twice as often.

[@jaycarl1562]

💯

[@steadyeddie7453]

You just nailed it. So many people still focus on the odometer for oil change intervals, but there are other factors. It's why new GM vehicles have "oil life" monitors that consider entire operating conditions like run time, temperature, load, and of course miles.

[@turboragtop]

Yep

[@mattk252]

Or change the filter in between oil changes

[@moparsrt1905]

It's very simple... let your car warm up for a few mins before driving

[@Fergus918]

Okay, two more things real quick. 1. I just stumbled on these guys and they're awesome. No better way to get a gear head engineer distracted and wasting a Saturday morning that starting a conversation about engine oil. 2. I see a lot of discussion about how long sythetic oil will last. Not to distract from these guys, but Engineering Explained did a great video about engine oil, the additives, and what goes into a 20,000 mile oil.

[@Starwarman1]

That video was nothing more than paid advertising for mobile one. Love engineering explained. Those mobile one sponsored videos were trash

[@James_Hough]

If there's one thing I've learned, it's that where a person stands on engine oil is primarily faith-based and arguing about it changes as many minds as arguing about other matters of faith.

[@BillLaBrie]

In the case of both it’s because the outcomes aren’t usually empirical. The minimal differences between oils and most oil-changing regimens (3k vs. 5K) won’t show up until very high milage. By then most cars are on their 3rd or 4th owners, if they’re still in use at all. In my experience working with fleet management, the long block is usually the last component to go-usually after about 400k of hard use and changes with full synthetic every 10k. My mom had a Trailblazer that went 700k with conventional oil changed at Firestone or Jiffy Lube. Everything else broke, but he engine still ran without smoke. But yah know, we old guys like to argue about shit that doesn’t matter…

[@gailtaylor1636]

@@BillLaBrie And stay off my LAWN!😏😂😂😂

[@lurking0death]

It is any EASY thing to research and yes, this issue has been thoroughly researched. Have you ever heard of SCIENCE, you absolute Maroooon!

[@James_Hough]

@@lurking0death You seem angry and humorless. I'll be praying for you.

[@jonathangarzon2798]

Engineering explained has a hour video going through details on this.

[@EnlightenedSavage]

"It's so slippery it reduces the rotational mass" uhhhh what. That is either misspoken or a complete misunderstanding.

[@redneck4200000]

If you cant dazzle them with brilliance, you baffle them with bullshi*

[@PatrickBaptist]

@@redneck4200000 You remind me of the public education system.... But let's change what you said to WHEN you can't dazzle them with brilliance, you baffle them with hog shit (it's way worse than bull shit, shovel some sometime.)

[@gdcskates]

friction is what he meant to say. i'll give him the benefit ....

[@bluepvp900]

I think I get what he's on about. When I first used synthetic oil in my 4 cyl. turbo I noticed the idle speed would drop to 500 rpm and almost stall. There is a significant effect on an engine and how it functions, with a few days use the control system seemed to adjust. If you don't have a new computer controlled engine maybe you need to make some adjustments on your own, I dunno, I'm not an expert. I change the oil more often than recommended, and I feel like if you make changes regularly you're going to be fine with just about any oil.

[@MisterDivineAdVenture]

Right - just stick the word "friction" in there somewhere. The equation involves "rotational mass."

[@akrocuba]

All my cars are newer and require synthetic. I change the oil and rotate tires, every 5k. Oil is cheaper that an new engine

[@determineddad7935]

I do the same.

[@aterack833]

MechanicalMartialArtist new engine is $300-500 and a days work, oil is like $20 per 5 litres, so a change is just shy of $60 plus the filter which is $16-24, I’d still rather change the oil if I could afford it, but 10 changes through the life of an engine and it’s costing you more (labour for labour it adds up too, sort of...)

[@MEGANODE]

aterack833 wtf? $300-$500? 😂

[@FrenchValleyAirport]

@@aterack833 $300-500 for what engine? a lawnmower engine? Or are you talking about a 200k mile junkyard engine.

[@DrDaddy-yg2ki]

Yeah, I dont care what the oil bottle says (use amsoil signature yearly change) I change mine every 5000 miles or 6 months and rotate the tires regardless

[@williameagle8803]

I enjoyed your talk. very interesting. Myself I switched to synthetic when I lived in northern Quebec/Labrador and we had lots and I mean lots of -30 -40 weather. And eevn plugged in engines would run a fair amount of time with no oil pressure indicated. But What turned me on to the Synthetic was an oil injected 2 cycle snowmobile (Yamaha) I used to leave the oil for the injection system under the back step and when I needed to fill the injection tank The oil wouldn't pour from the bottle. Made me wonder how long it took for the running engine to warm the oil until it would flow. I tried one of the first synthetic oils that I could get my hands on and in the same temperature range it was pourable and had fast indicated oil pressure. I have been a believer ever since.

[@chrisforgan731]

yes synthetic have better performance in very cold temps. i watched something from a local and well known diesel shop recently discussing how what many current model 4wds are factory filled with simply isnt suitable in our climate as we rarely get below 5 degrees celcius here for more than a few mornings in the middle of winter. his advice was to run heavier oil and to look at the temp chart in the owners book as your guide. particularly as many 4wd owners here are towing and running at max weights a lot when touring so a hard working engine needs a heavier oil. it must of course meet the lubricant specs for that engine.

[@nop3noperson]

Give me a thumbs up if you spent 20 minutes rummaging through comments.

[@231mac]

Nope

[@BiggusDickus2]

In other words "PaY aTtEnTiOn To Me, I'm A wHoRe."

[@nop3noperson]

@@BiggusDickus2 getting my money's worth big boy

[@1987FX16]

I did because I want to know what fucking oil he uses! lol

[@Paul_Tomlin]

@@1987FX16 haha did you find it yet?

[@redbed1604]

My friend Marvin was a Master Mechanic and he always bought whatever oil that was on sale. He never had an oil related engine failure.

[@Twitch_Moderator]

I love Castro GTX. It goes on sale (50% off) every 6 months. So I fill my garage each time. I have used it in my last eight vehicles and they've all lasted until I sold them. PS I did not sell them cuz they have mechanical issues. I have ADHD and I need to change my vehicles as often as I do my jobs. 👍😉👍

[@MrJeffcoley1]

Yes, it’s amazing what actually changing the oil from time to time will do for your engine.

[@TheTyrial86]

Yep change it every 3k miles. Bunch cheap bastards who think they should go 6k miles a change.

[@MrJeffcoley1]

3K mike oil change was back in the old days when the oil was the lubricant, but these days oil (ALL oil) is a semi-synthetic carrier for anti-wear additives. 5K is very reasonable, modern oils aren’t as volatile and contains almost no paraffin. 5K or even 7,500 is OK. But the “synthetic oil is magic” crowd thinks they never have to change it at all and then after 30,000 miles they drop the engine.

[@TheTyrial86]

@@MrJeffcoley1 The wear additives don't mean anything. We aren't talking about oil break down. There is more to this. Like the acids that build up in the oil, and the changes in viscosity. Then there is the notion that newer vehicles are running a turbo. And with all of that, you think it is safe to run 5k miles on an oil change with a turbo... lol. Gtfo.

[@John-mq9fx]

I had the pleasure of being in charge of the lubrication program for our plants numerous heavy gearboxes and pumps. In 1990 I began a switch to synthetics. Each gearbox was drained, flushed and examined for any metal filings. They were refilled with synthetic and monitored every 6 months for filings and viscosity. The data gathered showed that we could extend oil changes, thus reducing costs, by 1 year in many cases. I loved your rebuild of the Coyote engine and the info shared. I have an 2020 F150 5.0. It has a lovely, low growl when you hit the accelerator. It's waaayyy more truck than I will ever need, but at 67, it was kind of a bucket list thing.

[@chetmyers7041]

At 67, it's time to spoil yourself!

[@MikeHarris1984]

I use royal purple in my LS2 and have for 10 years. I change every 4000 miles. I will not wait 15,000 miles like some say you can.

Kias and Hyundai probably recommend that interval and then get engines going out of the wazoo. I've heard good from Royal purple, i think Amsoil is the best of the best but as long as it isn't some no name equivelant oil and it's full synthetic you're good. I do my oil changes at 5k kms so basically the same but just a 5.7l hemi 2006 very simple engine but oil is cheap.

[@fredwilliams7893]

I'M WITH YOU ON THAT ONE. I USE AMSOIL ASWELL AND IT CLAIMS 15,000 MILE OIL CHANGE INTERVALS. NO WAY JOSE! I CHANGE EVERY 3,000. PERIOD!

[@neilbrown82]

Royal purple is snake oil

[@fredwilliams7893]

@@neilbrown82 IDK MAN. I USED IT RECENTLY FOR A FULL 3,000 MILES AND DIDN'T HAVE TO ADD A SINGLE DROP NO SHIT. JUST SWITCHED TO WHAT APPARENTLY IS SUPPOSED TO BE BETTER AMSOIL AND I HAD TO ADD A DROP AFTER 1,000 MILES. SO WHO KNOWS.

[@repairvehicle]

How much engine wear do you have with rp?

[@BAMAJiPS]

I always run the cheapest oil possible - as long as it meets the API service rating and has the donut on the bottle I don't worry about magical claims - I also wouldnt ever go more than ~5000 MAX (and preferably 3,000-4,000 miles) regardless of what interval they recommend

[@Joe-nr9xf]

Might want to look into Amazon's oil then. ProjectFarm did a video on it and it was surprisingly good.

[@MiamiZombie2012]

@@defaultuser9273 yep, Warren distribution. A.k.a Walmart oil.

[@Honeypot-x9s]

I would never run the cheapest oil possible i pick something middle of the road in pricing. I run full synthetic high mileage oils because my Volvo has 300,000 miles on it and i beleive the extra dispersants and detergents in high mile grade full synthetic oil really helps clean things up. Having to do PCV service every so often on this car myself (because cost having others do it makes no sense) I can most defiantly tell you it does make a difference and is an improvement. I typically do 5000 mile - 5500 mile oil changes because 3000 mile change would be way too soon for me but I know if i wanted to really i could stretch it 7500 miles. That being said if I’m beating the snot out of my engine than it’s all about checking my dipstick.... with a shove use like tracking my wagon I had to replace the oil in as few as 750 miles total because started looking dark and smelling Funny and then gassy as turned darker..

[@scarling9367]

Same here. I cheap out on oil (Super Tech, Traveller, NAPA Conventional) but I change my oil frequently (3-5k mile).

[@walkingman9171]

@@Joe-nr9xf Better yet, Supertech. After amazon raised there oil price, Supertech all the way. Probably the same oil anyways.

[@slybunda]

"engine sounds good" bellows smoke out like a chimney. lol

[@tomdickharryjane]

I thought he was going to say "and we found a blown head gasket"

[@kevinalexander2484]

Noticed that did you !!!

[@trudeaumustgo1920]

Thats exhaust not smoke. Ever start a car in cold weather before?

[@slybunda]

@@trudeaumustgo1920 must be minus 50c for that much smoke to come out.

[@trudeaumustgo1920]

@@slybunda nope, i live in canada ask me how i know. Notice its grey and not blue? Burning oil has a bluer look to it.

[@daddynichol52]

This is one of the best videos I've seen in a long time. Great subjects and a knowledgeable guest. Do more w him.

[@jimsiggy]

Ha, got ya! @ 2:45 you called the PCV a PVC. In one way or another, I've been getting grease under my fingernails for about 40 years, and to this day I still get it mixed up and call the "Positive Crankcase Ventilation" a PVC. I'm happy to see it's not only me!

[@MattPratt]

I Have Sexdaily. I Mean Dyslexia! Fcuk.

[@tracewallace23]

I think part of it is that PVC just rolls off of the tongue a little easier too. Worst part for me is, I learned about a PCV BEFORE I learned about PVC and I STILL do it 😲

[@tracewallace23]

@@MattPratt I too have occasional bouts of Dain BRamage

[@LightLord1870]

Sounds like a heart palpitation haha.

[@bobdevreeze4741]

When I bought my first car , my father lectured me about oil changes. My 1969 Galaxie 500/390 was to get a fresh fill of 10w30 every 3000 miles (5000km) My 2018 Escape 1.5L 4cyl requires 5w20 synthetic but I still change it every 3000 miles (5000km) I have used Quaker State since my father sold it at his garage. I never lost an engine due to lubrication problems. You sounded like my father when you emphasized proper maintenance.

[@spoofking91]

Great to see two KZbinr’s and mechanics (The Skid Factory & De Boss Garage) who are on top their game supporting each other and us Aussie’s from the other side of the globe!

[@twinprimeable]

I think I would say "polymerization" instead of "crystallization"

[@2000freefuel]

Just like seasoning a cast iron fry pan!

[@dev_mal]

Polymerisation is a kind of chemical change in the substance isn't it? I thought sludge build up was just the oil breaking down and sticking to the engine and more sticking on top of it

[@2000freefuel]

@@dev_mal yes this is what happens when you season a cast iron pan, the oil breaks down into an almost plastic like substance.

[@nrs91]

id have gone with varnish

[@2000freefuel]

@@nrs91 six of one, half a dozen of the other.

[@derrickhillier1173]

I have had a many old timers say the same thing.Change the oil more often.Oil is cheaper to replace than an engine.Its all about the maintenance.Thanks for the info & tips.

[@Onewheelordeal]

It's real tough not to accidentally say PVC from habit when talking about positive crankcase ventilation

[@rustycowll5735]

yeah, that's kind of a pet peeve of mine. PVC means poly-vinyl chloride, as in plastic piping. Of course, PCV means positive crankcase ventilation.

[@1DwtEaUn]

positively ventilated crankcase?

[@lpete2766]

l have been a mechanic all my life and still call it a pvc

[@SD1fruitbat]

1. Changing pistons or skimming the head/block has no effect on displacement, because... 2. The volume of the space between the piston and head at TDC is not included in the displacement. Everything about computers and emissions I agree with because this is about not changing the compression ratio, and that IS affected by the design of the piston and/or skimming the head/block.

[@RadDadisRad]

Correct because you can switch from a dome to a dish and the volume is still the same because they subtract volume at TDC from the volume at BDC.

[@johnsmulders8535]

Great content. I wasn’t aware manufacturers were now using aluminium over tri-metal bearings.

[@buddylee19082]

That's wild, I thought I was the only one who swore by Clevite Tri-Metal bearings!? Nice! It's great to hear someone else say it.

[@tarheelpowersaws9619]

Great bearings

[@TheBlackDeath3]

Dude, you can't say "I thought this oil was so good that I've run it exclusively ever since", and then not share the brand!

[@1987FX16]

I'm pissed, I wanna know what the hell he uses so I can too. I trust both of their words enough to use what they recommend.

[@ralphe14]

I think they referred to Lucas Oil

[@av6739]

Walmart brand....

[@celticstephenhill]

The comments section seems to be leaning towards Amsoil

[@TheIdahoTrucker]

@@celticstephenhill its either amsoil or SHAEFERS. SHAEFERS IS THE BEST. Hands down

[@goyeabuddy]

i'm a retired mechanic & you guys nailed it, lack of maintenance!. synthetic is ok if you live in AZ where the average temp is 110, then it helps.. i have been using non-synthetics my entire life & never lost an engine or worn out prematurely due to the oil I've used. change oil regularly, its cheap insurance.

[@Richard.Cabeza]

FYI: Arizona has below freezing temps, places it's 35 in the morning and 90 midday and the average temp is not 110.

[@mikebythesea45]

I would love to know the oil used in the 12,000 hour Case.

[@petermolnar8667]

Just as interesting would be to know how long the oil change intervals were, if it's known. Could've mentioned that in the video, wouldn't have been an advertisement to say 100-150 or whatever hours :) filters, type of usage/load, any typical habits would be interesting too, but we'd have to talk to the owner then, I'm sure it's not only the oil.

[@kennethobando5755]

That’s not excessive for a Diesel engine. As a Diesel mechanic for a vocational fleet I’ve seen original engines still running good with 24,000 hours. Mostly Caterpillar engines, it was rare to see a Cummins make it over 20,000 hours and not have atrocious blowbye or have good power. Oil used was 15w-40 semi-syn castrol.

[@eliwillis1]

Just wanna know what oil was in the case? I love hearing what people use. I’m currently running Schaeffers

[@shawnmciver3943]

@@eliwillis1 i'm willing to bet it is Schaffers, that stuff is amazing

[@harleymo761]

FYI several 8970 new Holland’s here in range of 11-13k hours on the clock and way too many allis 7000 series with too many hours here - all have run Conoco fleet supreme 15w40 since changing out the break in oil. Like they said. It’s about maintenance. Quality oil and quality filters and a proper maintenance schedule. Like letting the diesels warm up and then cool down.

[@kuakkacam]

Great vid boys. I felt for Scott on the last one. There was way more digression than was necessary with some of the comments. Good to clear it all up. He can build my engine any day.

[@corndog2835]

The build up of layers of oil that bakes onto the engine parts is called polymerization, a lot of people refer to it as varnish.

[@stymiesnerdly771]

What's the "fuel mileage" thing he speaks of? Shouldn't it be fuel kilometerage, eh?

[@mtnbikerforlife]

stuff

[@sween187]

Usually litres per 100 kilometre

[@davidbuckles9950]

Proper use of “eh”. Must be Canadian.

[@jefflancaster9221]

come to think aboot that your right

[@NP-rh3dt]

I've never heard an American use stone as a measurement

[@jpulley]

Seems like a synthetic blend changed at 4k miles would be the best of both worlds. That what I do in my 203,000 mile 5.4 3v. Still on original timing components.

[@mirola73]

The cheapest oil with the right specs, just change a bit more often.

[@gary4507]

Good conversation guys. I'm an old diesel jockey with roughly five million miles behind me,almost all of which was long haul,550-700 miles per day. My favorite motor to get the job done with the least effort was the Cat 3406B,but the most efficient and best money maker for me was a 14 liter Series 60 Detroit that I sold when I retired with just under 1,700,000 miles on it. I replaced all outer engine components multiple times and replaced all of the injectors twice,but never did an in-frame on it. It was still running like new and holding good oil pressure when I sold it. I ran 15-40 Rotella dinosaur oil and changed oil every 12,000-13,000 miles and it was usually down a couple of quarts when I changed it. I was prepared and expecting to do an in-frame from around 900,000 miles on and watched for a drop in oil pressure or any excess metal in the oil,but it just kept going and going.

[@Davido50]

In 90% of vehicles where semi synthetic is recommended..full synthetic is ideal upgrade! Used Mobil1 for 20yrs an now Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for 10yrs in my recent GTDI Ecoboost engines. Run phenomenal!

[@ah4800]

Will run the exact same with any oil

[@Midwestboltandblade]

You mean "we'll save that oil brand info for when that company pays me to say their name".

[@onelowvdub]

More than likely amsoil

[@177SCmaro]

Basically, multi valve engines are, generally, breathing though a bigger hole. So, for a given displacement, a bigger hole tends to favor torque at higher rpm. The main advantage to pushrod engines are smaller outside footprint , lower center of gravity, and lower cost (to a point).

[@kingofthetrack8424]

I've run mobil one synthetic for over 25 yrs , i have had very good results , i had a 350 go 537,000 miles i tore it down to check on the condition of the engine, all was good i put some new parts in and gaskets, that engine after the rebuild in an S10 won king of the track, and king of the hill titles drag racing , I've got better mpg, ran cooler,saved money on oil changes, overall a better product than normal oil.

[@Big66C]

Thanks for the clarification. I own a First Gen 5.0 and you scared the Sh*( outta me. I keep up on my maintenance I change mine every 6500 and I do short runs mostly. But I live in Texas so this video made me feel better. Thanks. BTW I love my 5.0.

[@MyCarsandProjects]

This one and the other video (apparently made at the same time😂) scared the 💩 out of me too. I do live in Florida and also run it usually more than 30 minutes each time, if not more.

[@williamstanley7419]

You guys will love this. Lol. I work for a farmer in south Louisiana. He's a 97 year old WWII vet that owns a tugboat company. He doesn't believe in changing the oil in his tractors or his lawn equipment. He says the only reason he will change the oil on his equipment is when its "dirty". His oldest tractor is a '76. He told me he has only changed the oil in that tractor maybe 6 times. And yes, he is the original owner. Lol. All of his tractors have never failed due to engine problems. Amazing!

[@themindofjohn4346]

I know a guy who drives a '05 Chevy 3500 dump body with 200k+ and he claims hes changed the oil twice.

[@e3mrk1]

My Father in Law who's job was in Gears and Lubrication at N.A.S.A. always told me never mix oil brands because even if both oils are top of the line each one may have additives that when mixed with a different oil they can become corrosive and cause damage. It's ok to add a quart of different oil if needed if your going to change your oil in a day or two but not long term.

[@ecosby100]

My friend has a garage and we mix oils all day long. It’s all certified api. But at the end of the day it does not matter it’s all relatively the same shat. I think a space ship is a little more complicated then a camery

[@e3mrk1]

@@ecosby100 just because its certified doesnt mean all oil has the same additives Mixing different brands can cause some of them to become corrosive when mixed. It's also a good way to void a warranty if they find you were mixing oils and you develope problems.

[@ecosby100]

e3mrk1 well he has clients with cars with a lot of miles. A lot of shops don’t even change your oil or just add to it or even recycle it. And you cant void the warranty if it’s all api certified and the proper weight.😂. Shoot sometimes if we have it laying around we will use 3 different brands of oil. It’s all quality certified.

[@e3mrk1]

@@ecosby100 I never said it would destroy your vehicle if you mixed different brands but when a man who's known around the world and has co-authored books on the subject tells me something I'm inclined to believe him.

[@Johnysoutherner]

Just saying, but you make it out as if an OC gets every damn drop of the old out & nothing ever gets mixed. I don't buy the corrosive idea, at least not for vehicle engines. As for it all being the same shat, again a big no. Diehard Amsoil guy & engineer here

[@flexjay87]

Great addendum and explanation just how an engine works in todays engineering climate, vs the old days !

[@clemrod3273]

3.4 GM venture mini van. Changed oil in it when it says. Around 7500 miles. Conventional oil. Has 299,xxx miles on it. Still runs great. You guys changing ever 3000 to 5000 miles OPEC loves you.

[@MichelLinschoten]

Just goto projectfarm channel, he has done oil tests .. I’ve been running super tech oil from Walmart way before he even made the video. And precisely what I thought, it’s just as good as the expensive shit on the market. I check my oil(s) every time I fuel, i smell it, I check the color and if it’s getting a dark hue ? That weekend I am under my truck to change it out. It’s simple , and easy enough to do

[@wethepeoplearefedup]

Supertech is good stuff. Been using it for a long time

[@aterack833]

Everything past the first 4/5 words of your comment can be ignored (I’m joking btw)

[@HomieJeans]

Correct, but if you watch scotty kilmer he'll teach you about modern engines with vvti are better with full synthetic oils. I run my lawnmower on penrite 30, change it every season. Im also subcribed to project farm lol

[@niccadoodles]

I've run super tech for the past 4 years. I used to run rotella t6 before they changed the formula. The oil test reports look the best for the supertech compared to almost every brand out there, without going to the $45/gallon price range. Googling blackstone labs 'oil brand' reports, you can find both new and used oil tests, with driver's account of their vehicle and driving style. I found it matched my results the one time I sent a sample in. I'm rambling but it'll tell you if you have anything wearing out in your engine based on metal types found in your used oil. Use it.

[@wethepeoplearefedup]

@@HomieJeans Supertech makes a full synthetic too

[@michaelfunk5951]

Very well done. Makes good sense. I’m synthetic and yes combustion engine byproducts destroy even the best of lubricants. Long OLM also creates fuel dilution thereby you need earlier oil changes for instance city driving more than highway use. Good common sense information that you’ve brought out.

[@lorenray9479]

I am old! running geer wear out on pickups before engine failure. 3000 mile or 6 months to one year max. Oil change with Better quality filters. I do an unusual thing. I blend conven, or blend.50/50 with syn. Normally same brand. I increased viscocity a bit over time. 2 gens running 24 hours for a full year now after 500 hour timer. Still running both. I go 100 hour to oil change. One gets a new carb and fuel pump with starter. Valve adjust. Lol 500 hours ave. on gens??? Lol I'm doing both. Trucks get a motor flush if short, cold runs. Gens get a carbon clean with spark arrestor check. Works for me!

[@usa_dobson8967]

You should do a “Everything wrong with a 6.7 Cummins”!

[@MrGotem-gw2pv]

Let me, It’s not a 12v 5.9. Done.

[@usa_dobson8967]

Mr. Gotem Both are exceptional engines though admittedly...

[@MrGotem-gw2pv]

USA_Dobson No doubt. But you can make a 5.9 do pretty much anything - and cheap. 6.7 is much more complex/expensive to mod & repair. I didn’t/don’t know jack and I figured out my repairs/mods with very little wrench throwing 🔧

[@repairvehicle]

Pd diesel KZbin channel already did that and he has fleet of them.

[@matthewhoffman9242]

For grins and giggles how about everything wrong with a , say a Briggs and Stratton or a Kawasaki or even a Kohler

[@triot2127]

I use mixed fleet full synthetic diesel engine oil in everything.

[@Slider68]

I've always been concerned about our 2013 Ford C-Max Energi. My wife only changes the oil when the "change oil" notification shows up on the dash. This happens roughly every 45,000 to 70,000 km. The engine calls for fully synthetic 0w20 oil and that is what it has run since new (we bought it still on the 1st oil change in 2014). During the winter months especially, the underside of the oil fill cap gets massive amounts of white sludge building up on it. I've changed the thermostat twice and the second time even tested 4 different thermostats and installed the hottest one (close to 205°F is when it opens) and it still builds up this sludge. I'd estimate that at least 90% of the miles on the car are rush-hour type stop and go driving so the engine really struggles to get up to temperature, especially during the cold Canadian winter months. Because it is a hybrid, in stop and go rush-hour traffic, the engine only runs when accelerating moderately hard so the heater keeps sucking the heat out of the engine (the electric water pump runs with the engine off). I've pulled over and checked the temperature with an infrared thermometer gun and at highway speeds it does get to just under 200°F in the winter, but in rush-hour traffic the engine often cools to as low as 120°F to 140°F. Based on all of this I expected the engine to have turned into an oil burner, like every single previous car my wife has driven to/from work. Would you also expect it have turned into an oil burner with major engine issues? Oddly - it hasn't... I checked yesterday and it now has 398,000 km on it and it still runs like a top and the engine has never been opened (no changing of timing belt, nothing). We have never seen the oil level get down to the "add" mark, although a couple of times with more than 50,000 km on the oil I've added 1/2 a liter to top it up (my wife never checks the oil). In reality the engine has had literally zero maintenance other than rare oil and filter changes and the car overall has had very little too. Because the car uses regenerative braking (hybrid) we've been getting away with leaving the brakes untouched until they start grinding, roughly every 135,000 to 200,000 km. Then I replace both the rotors and pads (and one rear caliper that seized). It has had some of the steering components recently replaced, plus one wheel bearing, Another wheel bearing has been a bit noisy for about 50,000 km. It's still on original ball joints, CV joints, shocks, springs, HVAC, has no oil/fluid leaks, etc. I did a partial drain and refill of the coolant (both electrical cooling system and engine cooling system - it has 2 systems) and brake fluid (sucked out what I could and refilled with fresh fluid) a few years ago (around 250,000 km). The transmission fluid is still original, as is any other fluid if there is any. Thinking about it I don't recall changing the spark plugs ever - yikes... They are probably worn down to nothing. Combining the incredible fuel economy (~4 L/100 km overall average) and lack of maintenance costs, this has been by far the cheapest car to operate that we've ever had. Although a bit dirty now, the interior is still in exceptionally good condition too (no tears in the leather seats and literally everything still works). It also has a luxurious, comfortable interior that is both quiet and has a very good audio system.

[@CharlieK92004]

I always run diesel oil in my gas engine. It's old, carbureted, with flat tappet cam. No sludge whatsoever. Clean as the day I put it together.

[@themindofjohn4346]

We throw 15/40 in our Toyota fleet vehicles (tacomas) we dont even have to touch anything other than the oil fill cap on them for their lifetime with the company (~300k miles)

[@kainhall]

just make sure you warm it up before driving in the -50F temps i see in montana. . they do make a 5w-40 diesel oil.... which would work perfect in said temps . but ya.... that T6 rotella is some great shit for old school flap tappets

[@Doomzdayxx]

Whether using conventional or synthetic, do it at about 75% of what manufacturers recommend (for instance, if they state in severe conditions to change synthetic every 4k, change it 3k instead). Your engine will last forever....unless it's a GM of course.

[@Jacweninger]

We have a 5.9 in a 5140 maxxum with right over 19,000 hours that we always used shell oil in

[@TheBrokenLife]

Dang... Sounds like some guys were telling Scott that he stole their childhood or something. What I heard was that I should change my synthetic oil regularly if I'm short tripping. I was already way ahead of him.

[@Deftonesdsm]

Well actually he meant do not hop in ur car start it, take off, only drive 1 mile and shut it off. So NO MATTER THE OIL OR CAR let it get to operating temp b4 driving away. Older the car=longer warm up phase. But yes change oil regularly. If in city amd hwy 5k miles is ok but the 10-15k is pushing it i.m.o. But i agree people are fools and need to realize guy was just talking not stating perfect facts

[@PuerRidcully]

You need to change your oil regularly anyway. I wouldn't do 20k on one oil even if it was doing constant work. As the guys mentioned, it gets acidic with millage.

[@FoolOfATuque]

@@Deftonesdsm New cars don't warm up while idling. You have to drive them to warm them up, because of the friction difference he was talking about in the video.

[@Deftonesdsm]

@@PuerRidcully well oil itself doesnt go bad or become acidic. The results of burning hydrocarbons results in mamy bad things including acid. So on lomg intervuls the oil ends up with a lot of acid and other chemicals suspended in it. Unless u've overheated it the oil is fine. Its the detergents in it that get overwhelmed with "bad" chemicals that effects the metals. Thats why oil is recycled as oil itself is fine just the debris/dirt must be removed from it.Just clearing up the technicalities

[@Deftonesdsm]

@@FoolOfATuque yes true kinda BUT if you start it and put it in gear like most ppl you are doing serious damage. And yes they do get warm enough(operating temp) idling. It just takes much longer. That said if you do not let ur car idle to warm up and try to warm it by loading the engine you are doing damage period. Now not every part will get fully warmed at idle even when temp guage hits middle but the pistons/rings/bearings WILL be warm enough to prevent damage. Also new cars warm up MUCH faster in order to meet emissions as a cold engine is much more dirty. This is why we have heated o2 sensors etc now. Faster computer enters closed loop(warmed up) the better emissions and longevity-Source= im a A.S.E. certified engine builder

[@pepper13111]

I’m very old and when young the argument was detergent or non detergent oil for the car.

[@RJ-vb7gh]

I'm old too... and I answered that question when I dug about 10 pounds of burnt oil out of a 1971 351 Windsor. I bought it from a guy who worked at the Ford plant that made the car, it was a tagged car and he bought the car directly from Ford as an employee... He told me he only ever used Valvoline non detergent straight 30W oil in the car, did regular oil changes and that I should do the same. When I pulled off the valve covers the black crust retained the shape of the valve covers... After replacing the clogged lifters and digging out all of the crud, I switched the engine to Mobil 1, When I pulled off the oil pan 70,000 miles later the bottom of the engine was spotless, I mean it looked new. So much for non-detergent oils. I've been running synthetic oil since it first came out... Starting in my 1966 Olds... and yes, I still have that car.

[@sparky6086]

Non-detergent oils were for engines without oil filters. Up until the 1950's, most cars didn't have oil filters. Non-detergent oil allows solids to settle to the bottom of the crankcase, where they won't get in between moving parts. detergent oil suspends the solids, so that when the oil flows through the filter, solids will be filtered out, of the oil, rather than settling to the bottom, where they might be stirred up into the oil again. Many lawn mowers don't have oil filters, so that's why non-detergent oil is usually recommended for them to this day.

[@RJ-vb7gh]

@@sparky6086 I started fixing and working on 1960's cars and I recall my dad telling me that some car's don't have oil filters... I actually never worked on one, that I know of. But the owner's manual of our 1970 Ford Maverick actually called for "Pennsylvania Grade" multi-viscosity motor oil. My 66 Olds still called for straight weight oil. But for sure by 1971 non-detergent oil was a horrible idea for use in modern cars of that vintage, and some folks hadn't gotten the memo. I've been running my lawnmower on modern synthetic motor oil for at least 20 years and I got it used... Still fires up on the first pull most of the time. I never considered buying special oil for it or even the chain saw bar... But your explanation for using non-detergent motor oil is the first one that makes any sense that I've ever heard. I don't think I could ever agree with it... but it at least sounds reasonable and defensible. Thank you.

[@sparky6086]

@@RJ-vb7gh It's a fact. Synthetic oil or detergent oil is fine in your lawn mower as long as you keep it changed. We're talking about the olden days, when people didn't worry about changing their car's oil, much less their lawn mower's oil. My 1950 Chevrolet truck, which I had as a teenager, didn't have an oil filter. In the old days, maybe before you came along, it was rare, that anyone changed their oil or got there oil changed, so cars rarely lasted more than 60,000 miles without having their engine overhauled or be junked. It wasn't until the late '70's or early '80's, when changing oil became a common practice. Sure, the manual had a maintenance schedule, including oil changes, but hardly anyone paid any attention to it, as far as ordinary people went. Before, people just added oil or had the gas station attendant add it, when he checked it, if it was low. Anyhow, what I stated is the "technical" reason behind detergent/non-detergent oil. It used to be more important, because people didn't change it, but as long as people change their oil often enough, it doesn't matter as much as it once did.

[@RJ-vb7gh]

@@sparky6086 I recall the days when cars didn't last much over 60,000 miles. Even in the 1970's with better oil Vegas Pintos and Mavericks were all pretty much resting peacefully in junk yards around 64,000 miles. V8's had nylon timing gears which took most out at 100,000 miles when they failed. It really wasn't until the Datsuns came along that you saw a car without engine work go much over 100,000 miles (those and a few freak 225 slant 6's) My 1966 Olds owner's manual called for oil changes every 30 days or 2000 miles, which ever came first... but that wasn't going to save the nylon timing gears from blowing up at 100,000 miles. My friends and I got pretty good at doing timing chains and driving "free" cars into the second hundred thousand miles and running them on synthetic oil. I suppose I always remember my dad changing his oil in the 1960's. But I also recall the myth that older cars didn't need high grade oil any more. My dad switched from Quaker State to Sears oil, and some folks went with recycled oil once their cars got older. When I got my first car, my dad freaked out when I filled it with expensive synthetic oil the first time... as it had over 80,000 miles on it. And yes, that engine still runs. It's strange to look back and see how really well those old engines were built, to survive the abuse they took. It's also interesting to see the design failure points that were built into a lot of those engines. I suppose I always blamed the oil related failures on the bad myths going around and the general low quality of the lubricants of the day... I had never considered that there were that many people out there that weren't changing their oil according to the manufacturer's schedule. I suppose if people were thinking that their cars would be junk in 5 years anyway, why change the oil? Not buying the best oil or not changing it never crossed my mind. Yes, I sometimes do extended change intervals with synthetic oil, but I can't wrap my mind around someone trashing their car to save a few bucks on an oil change... never could and never will. Thanks again for the history lesson, even when I was there... I apparently missed a few things along the way.

[@benjaminbain2563]

I’m going with Royal Purple, based on the background on the thumbnail background is Royal purple’s purple. Also all oil manufacturers have reps. not just Amsoil. Especially if you have a shop as these two gentlemen do.

[@onelowvdub]

It's more than likely amsoil everyone and their dog is a rep in Canada

[@mikenicholson2548]

dead on with the oil it's like seasoning a cast iron pan you need to warm it up season it very very lightly and then let it cool and it will slowly coat. if you heat a cast-iron pan up and put a really massive amount of oil on it you just get this sludge sticky feeling all over the pan. Great video good explanation.

[@totalmobilesolutions4138]

The easiest way to end the debate on when to change oil, is to do oil samples. That’s the only way to do it 100% correctly.

[@jonathonsmith7694]

nah, just change it sooner

[@totalmobilesolutions4138]

Jonathon Smith we do a lot of fleet maintenance. We have trucks hitting high 50k miles between changes, lab verified. It’s worth it on a larger scale, but on our own work trucks we just double it and test it every so often to make sure it’s fine at that.

[@1gr8oil]

TOTAL MOBILE SOLUTIONS......I once had a 1994 Dodge Diesel (Cummins 5.9 12 Valve) that I ordered new. I installed an AMSOIL by-pass oil filter system and ran the AMSOIL 15W-40 Diesel oil doing "Oil Sampling every 10-12 K miles. I owned the truck for 10 years and put 155,000 miles on the Oil without draining the oil! The Engine was in perfect condition, and the valve covers were very clean inside!

[@hhiippiittyy]

How does one do oil sampl8ng at home? Sincere question.

[@totalmobilesolutions4138]

hhiippiittyy you get a kit from a company like Amsoil, get oil from your engine when you change it, send into the lab in the provided container. It can be messy, and prices vary. I think the kits I use are like 25 including freight to ship the oil.

[@tarheelpowersaws9619]

I run Rotella in everything I have. Have for years and have had no issues... pulled the valve cover on the vq35 with 202,000 miles and had no buildup/sludge/ or discoloration

[@troygier991]

Oh I change the oil all the time. These geniuses use full synthetic and it's a blend. Amsoil is 100% synthetic and it's expensive and I still change early.One incident was I took my wifes Mitsubishi in for a minor recall and they had to take the head valve cover off. The service manager came into the waiting room and said come with me to the service area. The Mechanic ask me what kind of oil was I using and I told him Amsoil. The inside of my wifes motor looked like a shiney nickel. 😁

[@blake102989]

Exactly right buddy! Amsoil is the only %100 synthetic oil and is hands down the best

[@danteerskine7678]

​@@blake102989bullshit. European brands like Motul are better than amsoil as they're subjected to European stringent standards and not the nonsensical American API standards. Not sorry to say that but shell, yacco, Motul are true European synthetic oils

[@davesusek3330]

People give me crap for changing Mobile 1 EP at 4k miles. Thank you guys. Remember also lot of Synthetic is only highly refined conventional oil thanks to Castrol and a stupid judge.

[@johndixon9988]

can you elaborate on the stupid judge part? What lawsuit was it?

[@MrCorvairGuy]

@@johndixon9988 Castrol argued that a conventional base stock which had undergone "molecule size homogenization" could be legally called synthetic oil and the judge agreed.

[@anonymike8280]

You need to research the products you use. Group 3 base stock is different from ordinary dino oil precisely because of the exceptional refining process. You can't always expect the government to do your thinking for you. Myself, I'm good just knowing the difference between low-end synthetic and the premium brands. It actually is valuable information for me because it lets me know that I can use cheapo synthetic on the same basis as dino oil in my 1990s era cast iron block engine.

[@rongreen8485]

Been a diesel mechanic 42 years, Cat, Cummins, Detroit dealerships. Run a quality oil per factory recommendations, and intervals. Also take an oil sample in for analysis that will tell you exactly what is going on with your engine.

[@mamafaker50]

I am pretty consistent on changing my car oil every 3k miles, or 3 months. I drive a beat up old 1998 toyota camry. I bought it with 200k miles on it and now it has 250k on it.

[@ClericChris]

You're cheating with that car. You can't brag until you get over 350-400k. You can abuse those and get 250k. The starter was the only issue with that car.

[@stansova3138]

Heck I know Toyotas that run that far without oil

[@bennyjetsaroundtheworld9047]

See your first mistake was buying a Toyota cause now youl never get all the knowledge of how to fix every single thing that breaks on your car every 4 months since it's not Ford tough spec. Now you're gonna be stuck with just changing oil and filling the gas smh

[@mamafaker50]

@@ClericChris Funny enough, I changed the starter a few days ago!

[@mamafaker50]

@@bennyjetsaroundtheworld9047 I guess you're right...

[@Mike-xt2ot]

Anyone else thinks this guy is Kenny Schraeders doppelganger?? Its like Kenny had a twin he's unaware of!

[@johnbarron83]

V

[@Taydrum]

I legit thought it was my aviation tech teacher, he looks identical to this man

[@Panhead49EL]

lol, now that you mention it. I wouldn't say a doppelganger, but he's definitely at the family reunions.

[@Watchyn_Yarwood]

I'll never be able to un-see that!

[@vapeking466]

I drive a lexus and it only uses synthetic however it still needs to be changed every 5000 miles to maintain the warranty. Also a toyota master mechanic told me the same change it every 5000miles. He says he seen lots of more wear on engines going 10000miles between changes vs 5000.

[@Papi4l2]

Someone, TELL ME WHAT OIL WAS IN THAT TRACTOR! ...but seriously lol, really curious what oil he ran that made this guy switch

[@MikeLitoris609]

I bet it was Rotella T

[@Videoswithsoarin]

the hell is the point of bringing up the story if you dont say what oil it was. very helpful information

[@jeremyc3431]

@@MikeLitoris609 thats a great flat tappet oil. I use it in my ford gas tractor rebuilds. I work the tractors but off for about 10 hours and then I change it to a 10w synthetic.

[@jeffspeth2722]

Its above his head on the red poster

[@BruceOfWaynes]

@@jeffspeth2722 he specifically said it's not Lucas Oil.

[@Brownnproud91]

I run 5w20 full synthetic Kendall liquid titanium with motorcraft filter in my 3.5 duratec and change it out every 4000-5000miles.. I don't care if I'm changing too soon..i rather spend on an oil change than replacing an engine.

[@stevemic]

Your changing too late

[@Brownnproud91]

@@stevemic not really. I can literally eat off my engine

[@stevemic]

@@Brownnproud91 shit mine must be impeccable

[@rustycowll5735]

I go more by color of the oil. When it starts to turn dark amber, it's ready for a change for me. That usually falls around 5k miles for me. I'm not trying to eke out every last mile out of the oil. The cost of oil & filter is relatively negligible. I do my oil changes myself, and recycle my used oil.

[@raymondreiff8170]

I get what you are talking about 100%, When talking about engine reliability in stock form unmodified, I see far too many Cummins and Caterpillar class 8 truck engine failures in the form of head gaskets failures etc when they are tuned way too hot or 100s in hp over stock, Right now I know of three such cases.

[@redlywaxer]

Your info in this video is very good about oil. I have studied oil for many years. Every oil starts with a total base number or TBN. Longer life oils generally have a higher TBN and better overall additive package. The only way to know for certain if you have used up the TBN which can start from 5 or 6, and go all the way up to 15 or higher on some long life oils, is to test it. The TBN gets used (drops) very fast on worn engines that are run short trips consistently, especially in cold weather, because the water vapor and acids from the combustion gas gets past the rings and goes into the crankcase oil. If the oil never or rarely gets up to the boiling temp of water for a significant period of time, then the oil's additives get used up faster neutralizing all the acidic byproducts of combustion, dropping the oil's TBN quite fast. Once it gets below 2 or 1, that is when the deposits start forming on engine parts, clogging up tiny lifter ports, seizing up rings in their ring lands with a resulting drop in compression. Hope this helps.

[@MrZimmaframe]

Tbh I feel like Richards shorts need to be more filthy, this isn’t Rich.

[@domesticelectricinthekeys]

They used to be his white tuxedo shorts

[@Shane-Singleton]

@@domesticelectricinthekeys Indeed. And that was just 3 hours ago.

[@DEBOSSGARAGE]

Those were white golfing shorts that morning

[@MrZimmaframe]

@@DEBOSSGARAGE 🤣

[@phihelix8777]

😁

[@lashlarue7924]

SUBSCRIBED. I could listen to y'all talk about oil all day long. 🍿

[@fitzyholden1036]

When asked how often they change their oil most people lie.

[@keithslade9379]

same as flossing.

[@milkman2591]

Oh come on what oil is he running?? I have to know

[@truckguy6666]

I would guess Rotella

[@neilramseyer5348]

@@truckguy6666 yes I was going to say Rotella or Schaefer

[@mattlane2282]

Amsoil... I bet

[@drdoom74]

You guys didn’t notice that gigantic Lucas oil sign in the background during that entire portion of the show? 🤣

[@milkman2591]

@@drdoom74 I was thinking that might be misdirection

[@patriciap1214]

My name is Patricia Prince and I just bought a new diesel truck Duramax 6.6 and I am not I’m going to change the oil every 4000 miles in it like I did in my 1987 Chevy pick up with a 350 engine it lasted over 400,000 miles without any issues. Remember the old saying change you do you good

[@breakwood8531]

Amsoil synthetic has been my go to for years. Amazing oil. Real synthetic.

[@alexstromberg7696]

Is it group 4?

[@breakwood8531]

@@alexstromberg7696 yes it is.

[@alexstromberg7696]

@@breakwood8531 we don't have amsoil anyway I'm Sweden lmao

[@TurboVisBits]

I've been using amsoil z-rod in my Supra for years as it has the needed additives to deal with starting the car to move it around without it getting fully up to temp and being on 80%+ Ethanol fuel. Black stone says keep it up! :-)

[@romankim3198]

Which one signature series?

[@Sobriety5424]

I use full synthetic and change every 3k miles

[@chadingram6390]

Just wasting then

[@jamesbottger5894]

That's a waste of good oil. ANY full syn will easily go AT LEAST 5K, and probably longer...

[@imetr8r]

I bought a 1998 3.0 liter V6 Dodge Dakota new in 1998. After 500 miles I changed to Mobile 1 exclusively. I run 20 to 25K miles between oil changes (but change filter every 10 to 15K) and now have 258K miles on the vehicle. Last year (2021) I drove twice from the Pacific to the Atlantic and back pulling a 1750 pound camper. I've pulled that camper about 78K miles over the years. I think Mobile 1 has had a lot to do with the excellence of this vehicle.

[@Ashcrash82]

I was a dealership tech at the time when the push for synthetic oils was on. The dealership had a quarterly customer appreciation event and I was the tech that got to explain to the new customers that just because the owner's manual for your new Ford says 7500 or 10000 miles between services, that is not a good idea. In the Midwest US, and an agricultural area as well, we still see ~120 F temp swings throughout the year, and lots of dust in the air at planting and harvest, etc. We still recommended 3-5k miles between changes. This also helps keep track of everything else on your car that wears, like tires, belts, brakes, filters, etc.

[@bbb462cid]

I will say that when I had an oil filter fail and I wiped out my mains racing a Mustang Cobra, I attribute the ultimate survival of that engine to full synthetic. Full disclosure: I like zinc. I'm not saying no other oil would have saved my engine, I'm saying it was more likely to have been saved by that synthetic. But I did consult with my parts suppliers and machinists and planned the build with synthetic in mind, I just didn't decide one day to give it a whirl.

[@mattmopar440]

Most high quality Synthetics have plenty of Zinc

[@bbb462cid]

@@mattmopar440 :)

[@zeroyon4562]

@@mattmopar440 I thought most engine oils meeting API standards had low zinc nowadays, but used calcium and other metals for anti-wear instead, and that you'd have to buy a specific high zinc oil or dose the oil with ZDDP?

[@poordecisionsgarage9834]

Late to the game but this was a great video. I get sick of guys schilling shit with no experience so it’s a nice break to hear what’s reliable vs what’ll make 800hp once. I think you should bring this more in depth series back.

[@44hawk28]

If you bore an engine out larger it doesn't have more displacement, where the hell did this guy get his weed from??? And if the oil doesn't get up to temperature how the hell does it crystallize?

[@365hillclimb]

Kijiji sounds like my girlfriend named it while being tickled aggressively.

[@steve123261]

I have a 16 sierra and a 12 wrangler. mostly drive 80% in town with the gm and 100% with the jeep. When the truck says 50% oil i change it and the jeep gets done the same day regardless. The last oil change in between on the jeep only went 1600 km in 5 months full synthetic. I live in northern Canada and cold weather short drives are brutal. At 1600 km and a long winter that oil was totally done. subscribed

[@Eric-zb6nx]

Everybody talks about lucas, amsoil, shell, pennzoil, and mobil. Around my area a lot of construction companies and farmers use petro canada.

[@CORVAIRWILD]

PetroCanada is re labeled oil, which could actually be very good quality, as witnessed by projectfarm. Amazon basic oil is one good example. I worked for a packaging company many years ago, and Labels got changed every 2 hours

[@Eric-zb6nx]

@@CORVAIRWILD I thought petro canada had a oil refinery in Mississauga, and two fuel refineries one in Quebec and one in Albert. It was bought out a couple of years ago by holly frontier, but we still probably get our oil from Mississauga in south west Ontario, the fuel i doubt.

[@nissanbrown6144]

I haul oil and let me tell you only paying for the name because most of these customers like walmart kmart loews buy there oil buy the bulk and just put there name on car manufacturers do the samething.

[@mattlane2282]

Buy in bulk... BUT to their spec...

[@BG_LEO_MachineRepair]

I am a recent fan of your youtube channel and have been watching some of your older posts. This particular topic caught my attention. I have been a certified Vibration Analyst for over 40 years and have been self employed in this field for the last 35 years. My base trade is Industrial Machine Repairman which has kept me involved in machine repair field as well. My experience involves very serious fault diagnosis in machine failures. I CAN STATE WITHOUT BIAS THAT SYNTHETIC LUBRICANTS ARE NOT WHAT THE OIL COMPANIES CLAIM THEM TO BE. in 2001 I was involved in the vibration Certification of the Connecting Rod line Built for Navistar to be installed in their main engine plant in Wisconsin. A failure to be able to run certain machine tool spindles above 6000 r.p.m. resulted in a top level meeting in Windsor that included 3 engineers from the engine facility. Upon discovering that the client was using synthetic lube in the $16000.00 bearings they informed us that Navistar does allow Synthetic lube in their facility in any WAY, SHAPE or FORM whatsoever!