T-LCM Pedals. Brake Force setting (UPDATED VIDEO).

[@Woodiii04]

thanks man i bought them 3 weeks ago and my lap times dropped 2s bec i couldnt get used to the brake, and i didnt knew what the brakeforce setting actually meant, until i have seen your video! Thanks! 😁

[@everytenth]

No problem man. Happy to help!. Enjoy

[@kaminskikam]

Thank you, I was having difficulty finding the settings. I'm from Brazil.

[@everytenth]

Happy to help. Thanks for your comment.

[@soulshinobi]

I didn't realize that horizontal gauge at the bottom was also and adjustment, thanks!

[@everytenth]

No problem. Thanks for your comment!

[@taxi615]

The tlcm is my first ever pedal and went right to dual red springs with 💯 and found out fast I couldn't brake properly. So I change 1 red spring to a black one and set my brake force at 80% and now I have full control. I have the apex v2r brake mod coming so I'll switch to that and will see how it goes. My advice to new users of load cells is start off on medium and work up that 100kg load cell with dual red springs is something else how people use 200kg high end pedals for hours is beyond me.

[@everytenth]

Thanks for sharing 👍

[@totallyboss418]

Thanks for the video, I've noticed that a brake force in the 50-65 range is more enjoyable for me. Otherwise I'm focusing way too much on braking instead of turning. But yea, it takes time to get used to. I'm using both red springs and put all the washers in so there's no slack/dead-zone. Not sure if I love this configuration just yet, but I'm going to give it a week and force myself to get used to it

[@everytenth]

Cool. Thanks for that. Yeah I'm goin to experiment raising my brake force as well just to find the ideal balance. I might experiment using the washers also as it's quick enough to make changes. Happy racing!

[@roffpure]

Thanks man! So is there a calculation that can be used to extract the load in kilograms on the pedal? What exactly is the value of the RAW in Brake? I'm on brake force 75, so I'm at 44.7 in the value of the row as soon as the final value reaches 100. So how much pressure is a kilogram? THX

[@everytenth]

Happy to help, and thanks for your comment. According to Thrustmaster, the pedals can register 100kg from the load cell. The RAW value represents what the load cell is registering, so that means 44.7 raw is 44.7 kg. Bear in mind, if you change to a different compression spring, this will affect how this same pressure in your muscle memory FEELS, and will affect the raw value (for the same amount of your physical force), however the RAW value will ALWAYS tell you the kg that it's picking up, so you can think of that value as the kilograms. Hope that makes sense.

[@roffpure]

Thank you very much bro! that's what i thought

[@Chakotay2222]

I think it depends on your sitting position. If you are sitting in office chair you will need to lower way the fuck down. But if you bought racing rig complete with seat and all then you need to max the braking force sence your leg can deliver much higher force becouse of your different position

[@rakimaje8433]

This is finally a more in depth explanation, thanks! With these pedals should it be a goal to press Them all the way down to reach 100% braking or is that definitly not the goal?

[@everytenth]

It doesn't really matter about pressing the brake pedal all the way down if you have your brake force setting lower. The important thing is to make sure you are getting 100% FINAL VALUE. For example, if you have a high brake force setting but don't have a strong leg, your final value won't be 100% and you won't be maximising your braking potential.

[@rakimaje8433]

@@everytenth Thanks, I have to figure out the settings. I love the pedals, but suffer from pain in my leg lol, and somehow a hard click when pressing the pedals. Can't find the issue with that.

[@everytenth]

@@rakimaje8433 No worries. Yes i get a sore leg too after playing for long periods but my leg has become stronger lol. I also sometimes have a loud click from my brake pedal too. I think it is just one of the springs.

[@Kaisarion1998]

when i put brake force to 100 i cant even get the final value above 30 when pressing down fully on the pedal, could mine just be broken?

[@everytenth]

At 100 brake force, the load cell needs 100kg of pressure to reach maximum pedal travel, and therefore maximum signal sent to the game which is what you want always! 100kg is a lot! A small person who doesn't lift weights or have much leg strength might not be able to exert much force onto the pedal. I have Fanatec pedals now, so I can't remember exactly what mine were like, but from memory, 100 brake force will FEEL like your pedal is at full travel, but if you really try you should see the reading go up higher. Try pushing the brake with both legs and see if you get above 30, that's probably the easiest way to test them. Good luck! I hope they're not broken.

[@Kaisarion1998]

@@everytenth it is not on a rig, just on the floor and im in a gaming chair, so i just roll back or the whole pedal set lifts up if i press too hard, even if try to hold it down with my other foot and press as hard also possible i only get about 32 and then i start to roll back, so i think that is just the problem

[@everytenth]

@@Kaisarion1998 yes absolutely that would be the problem, so you definitely need to set a low brake force setting, otherwise your braking distances will be crazy long. Once you get a rig, you can raise it.

[@DOC187able]

do your pedals Ever un calibrate mid race ??

[@everytenth]

What do you mean by un calibrate? I only had trouble with my accelerator doing weird stuff. Sometimes it would either stick on or totally drop out. I later learned that it was probably due to EMI issues that could have been fixed by grounding my rig. Sent the first set back. My new replacement ones they sent back did the same thing. I ended up going Fanatec so I don't have mine anymore.

[@DOC187able]

@@everytenth they would mid-race lose their calibration I set with the equipment either the rolling star that does it or I get hit in anoxic completely out and I have to go back to the software

[@everytenth]

@@DOC187able no I never had that problem

[@MorfiusRacing]

Thanks for your vid. I just bought these pedals and am going through the fine tuning process so will try your method of building up the muscle memory and conditioning. 😉👍

[@everytenth]

Happy to help. Cool, enjoy your new pedals!

[@DaeveMc]

What do you recommend for a recent daily street car feeling? I think the 2 red springs are way too hard to press.

[@everytenth]

I'm not using mine anymore, I've switched to Fanatec but I was using the black on the bottom and white on top. Give that a try

[@DaeveMc]

@@everytenth still too heavy in my opinion I might have to get a mod for a more hydraulic feeling.

[@ZvedLeGamer]

@@everytenth Hello, when are you using white on top and black on bottom do you put all washers ? Thank you

[@everytenth]

@@ZvedLeGamer hello. No I didn't use any washers. The washers are used if you want to reduce the preload effect of the centre spring. You can use some or all of the washers if you like but adding washers will also reduce the physical travel of your pedal.

[@ZvedLeGamer]

@@everytenth thank you !

[@shifterbmtm2495]

thanks man, finally a decent explanation about brake force and how it is translated into raw and final value. it is a kind of reverse mulitplier for the raw value. less brake pressure gives more final value for the same raw value (travel). I have also noticed that the raw value max is about 50 or 60, even if you push the pedal all the way. I am using now the black spring on top and the red below, but think i will change it by a softer spring on top to have that incremental loadup of the brake like in a real car (easy at first but then i gets harder and harder). And like totallyboss is mentioning, we need to focus on driving and not on braking. I come fron a T3PA pedal set and this is a big difference. I am not quicker (yet, got the pedal set from the weekend) but i already put in some more concistency in the laps. So the trust is beginning to build up. I only need to find my sweetspot now.

[@bossmanDIY]

No worries man, thanks for your comments. The raw value does go up to 100 if you push REALLY hard on the brake (depending on springs of course

[@bossmanDIY]

...maybe with the full hard springs I may not get it to 100 (I'm a fairly small dude). I'm running the black at the base and the white at the top for the fractions of a second gained by getting the brake from zero to full travel (which over the course of a lap/race will gain you quite a bit in a long race). Personally I usually like to go for realism so I would like to go for a harder brake pedal, but given the resistance factor (time taken to get to 100%) I have gone with the softest option. Cheers

[@everytenth]

Sorry I was signed in to my other account

[@nanoverse]

@@bossmanDIYDoesn't work like that. It's not a contest of who has the lightest/fastest spring but with what combination do you get best consistency.

[@everytenth]

@@nanoverse Bossman here, I never said it was a contest about who has the lightest/fastest spring, and I'm not saying my way is the best way, it's set up for me to my personal preference. I agree with you to an extent. If you're talking consistency regarding brake lockups, yes there are chunks of time to be found there if you can master your technique and setup. Everyone needs to experiment and find their best setup. We're talking racing here where the stopwatch counts thousanths of seconds. You can't tell me the time taken to get the brake pedal to 100% wouldn't be slower using the hardest possible springs.

[@palestragenesi2.042]

your combination spring in this video?

[@everytenth]

Black on bottom, white on top

[@StudioDaVeed]

My pedals are not mounted - just on the floor; I'm using the 'stock' spring set. I have found I need different settings for different cars and tracks. I want a soft smooth more nuanced feel at high speed ovals. But on road courses I want the hard violent stomp, lol. The two different 'modes' seem, for me, to add not what I would call realism - but more accurate feel/action especially on road courses.

[@Kilb-ill]

Is it normal when I have 4 washers installed with red springs, that I have force on the brakes without pressing them in the calibration tool?

[@bossmanDIY]

I wouldn't think so. Did you check with other springs? I'll have a look at mine when i finish work. I did have a glitch with my first set of pedals (warranty)... The gas pedal would sometimes either show full gas or not work at all, independent of what position my foot was. Some electrical gremlim because when i unplugged them and reconnected again, they went back to normal.

[@bossmanDIY]

Sorry I'm signed in to my other account

[@everytenth]

Hi, I put the red springs and 4 washers in near the chrome centre spring (like it says in the instruction manual) and I was getting a reading of between 0.6 and 0.8 with my foot off the brake. Obviously the high tension does apply the brake a little so make sure your adjust your deadzone to ensure you aren't getting any braking when you don't want there to be any

[@Mr5150guy]

Do these settings affect calibration on a PS4 or does the console take care of calibration?

[@everytenth]

I'm pretty sure the TM settings will always be in effect regardless of platform or console. You will have additional in-game calibration settings in your ps4 or whatever that you can fine tune further

[@michaelstockwell9776]

To calibrate your pedals for console you need to plug them in to a PC. It's a bit of a pain but once you get settings you're happy with its all good.

[@tabtab9929]

Why the default value of Gas 1.7? This is normal?

[@everytenth]

I don't remember exactly why I set the gas deadzone at 1.7. I think I may have done it, so when I did a slight lift (at some corners) it gave me a small amount extra gas because I tend to be more cautious and maybe lift too much.

[@tabtab9929]

@@everytenth No, this is not dead zone, this is raw value of gas pedal, it should be 0.0. The question this is defect or no?

[@everytenth]

@@tabtab9929 you're right. Sorry yes I think a defect. I had to send my first set back for warranty. The replacement set they sent me were faulty as well. I later learned that it was probably caused by EMI issues which I probably could have solved by grounding my rig

[@tabtab9929]

@@everytenth Thank you for the answer.

[@Luca-pg5mj]

guys could you suggest me some settings for the pedal box springs? now i'm trying to use double red spring, both below and above, but i don't know if it's the correct choice.

[@MorfiusRacing]

Hey, i bought the TM T LCM pedals last week just got them used the RED springs and found them to be too hard, tried the black springs same issue now on the white and black combo with no washers set in the middle spring. Just seen this video and it's helped me understand that muscle memory and conditioning is important coming from the old pedals the T3 PA pro which are linear ( not a load cell based system ). With the TLCM I was having under steer or it would lock up. Very frustrating for now as I have had much faster lap times with my old pedals set up.

[@bratosin1]

I believe 60 is the sweet spot

[@Sansebastian1993]

85