Tech Tip: Avoid common Ken Onion WorkSharp Errors

[@JoelHunterGun]

Some of the best advice I've heard yet.

[@GunnysSharptalk]

Thank you 🙏

[@MarkRif]

thanks so much man, pro tip there saved the day; setting the attachment on the lowest angle then tilting the blade on the platform until you contact the bevel and using that as the guide angle made all the difference! solved numerous problems at once. thanks again

[@GunnysSharptalk]

Glad it helped

[@CaptSeeryus]

One thing that I kept doing was while the handle is on the left side, I would subconsciously lift the handle up slight to avoid it hitting the frame of the grinder and ended up seeing a wear pattern like a mini recurve. Finally got good at not doing that and the the MK2 comes out where there is no frame to hit against on either side.

[@johnshifflett1722]

This is the first time I’ve heard someone say to not just lay the knife flat but to move it so the bevel’s flat. I’ll have to try that

[@muchimi]

Hello thank you for putting out all the information you do I have a couple of questions because I'm thinking of getting into the knife sharpening business. Cannot machine also sharpen both dog grooming shears as well as higher-end hair cutting shears for high-end beauty salon?

[@GunnysSharptalk]

I wouldn’t use this machine to do that. High end beauty salon sheers are more complicated than regular scissors too

[@katzsteel]

Yup, biggest drawback of KO Worksharp. I’ve rounded a few tips (kitchen knives) with the regular attachment. It seems I do less of it with the belt grinder. I have two Worksharps but I’m trying some Atoma diamond plates 140 and 1200) now too. Still have yet to try a guided system. They seem like they would be very tedious and slow. By the way, just bought some Gunny Juice and plan on using it with the cloth strop belt and a leather bench strop.

[@motellion]

Outstanding, thank you Sir! 🙏🏽👊🏽

[@swiggamortis5521]

Loving all the vids Brotha!

[@GunnysSharptalk]

Thanks brother. Hope to have some better ones up by this next week.

[@BennyCFD]

You're absolutely right.......................

[@EtaSoon777]

Where do I source a leather belt? I got the cloth stropping belt kit but like that thick leather one you have there. Didn't notice a leather option on work sharp website. Thank you for the information

[@GunnysSharptalk]

I picked this belt up off of Amazon.

[@MrNoNameForYou]

I always round mine in. Haven't rounded a tip yet thankfully. The tip is the hardest part for sure to stay consistent. But turning the knife is the only way I've been able to do it. Rather than sharpening all the time I'm going 6o start taking stropping serious. I'd rather keep my blade sharp after I sharpen it than continually sharpen. Got to get back into daily stropping.

[@GunnysSharptalk]

Stropping is definitely the way to go for maintenance

[@JoeSteel1]

I have a question if you can help me? I just received my onion with the grind attachment and I tried to sharpen one of my Katana swords, I already see a mistake I made from your video of not resting the sharp bevel flat on the level prior to moving it to the belt, other than that I followed the directions to the tee...and used a 22 angle but I did not get it as Razor-sharp as I wanted it...in fact I dulled the top end at first passes then I used the ken onion only and got slightly sharper but not what I wanted....Do you have any recommendations as to how I should go about sharpening my swords? or at what belt angle setting?...thanks you

[@GunnysSharptalk]

If you dulled it your angle was too high. Use a Sharpie and mark the whole edge bevel. If you completely remove the marker in one pass your angle is correct. If not then adjust your angle. If you remove marker only towards the edge then your angle is too high. If you only remove the marker towards the top of the bevel shoulder then you are too low. And honestly it’s easier to set the blade grinding attachment to the lowest setting. Use the little table on it to figure your guide. If you try all this and have issues lmk. I will stick with you and get you through it. Either leave a message here or contact me on my FB page “Scott Gunn”.

[@MrEric0822]

I can use this with success, but I have a big problem with removing the burr. Do you have any special tips? I like leaving a toothy edge.

[@GunnysSharptalk]

You can either try to slightly increase the angle while using a super light touch. Or use a strop. Or take a piece of cork or soft wood like balsa or even pine and cut into it lightly. This will remove your burr

[@MrEric0822]

@@GunnysSharptalk I have stropped it to death (with your 3 and 1 Gunny Juice, and the burr is still there. Also dragged the edge through piece of soft wood. No luck. Crazy tough burr. I've noticed burrs are more stubborn on this system than otherwise. I'll try increasing the edge angle, but imagine I will just create a microbevel. Thanks for the response!

[@GunnysSharptalk]

@@MrEric0822 it’s because edge trailing sharpening forms a larger burr. Try to deburr after every belt. See if that helps

[@GunnysSharptalk]

@@MrEric0822 use a very light touch if you increase the angle. And just do a slight increase

[@BennyCFD]

@@MrEric0822 Nah...............If you finish with a fine grit belt doing one alternating pass than another the burr should be almost non existent that will be completely removed with a belt strop..............

[@robertmunguia250]

Good info! What is the other side of platform for? The straight one.

[@GunnysSharptalk]

It allows for a different way to grind. I will do a video on it eventually when I get a chance

[@robertmunguia250]

@@GunnysSharptalk ok thanks!

[@SurvivalSpec]

Great advice

[@simpleman8644]

I was looking at this thing before you suggested the other. Looks cool for like Axes/Machetes if it was a little bigger

[@GunnysSharptalk]

Sorry I totally missed your comment. It works on machetes and axes, but isn’t ideal

[@ProdigalSon684]

What's that device you push the blade down on, and what's the meaning of the reading?

[@GunnysSharptalk]

What reading?

[@pcxdrone]

holy smokes don't tell me that mirror edge is from the WSKO??

[@GunnysSharptalk]

I believe that was. But I had leather strops with Gunny Juice too

[@dazzyd1964]

did you add the compound, if so, what compound did you use?

[@GunnysSharptalk]

I used Gunny Juice 3 micron I believe

[@davestelling]

​@@GunnysSharptalk Is your 3 micron "Juice" roughly equivalent to 3000 grit? I'm looking for an "All purpose" Gunny Juice to start with...

[@GunnysSharptalk]

@@davestelling the 3 micron is a little higher grit than that but it makes a great all purpose emulsion. You should never very happy with it

[@GunnysSharptalk]

@@davestelling the 3 micron is a little higher grit but makes a great all purpose emulsion.

[@davestelling]

@@GunnysSharptalk Thanks, Gunny...will get that...thanks for all your tutorials - I'm still learning my KO-3 and I've learned a lot right here...

[@TheMobster450]

Just curious if by using this grinder as you have it, does it change the grind from the factory (V gring) to more a (scandi) or Convex? and do you prefer that? Thank you sir.

[@GunnysSharptalk]

It will change the bevel grind to a convex grind. I like a convex grind for machetes and axes. I prefer more of a V for folders.

[@Maxman92]

@@GunnysSharptalk Question: If you set the rollers closer together will that give you more of a factory v grind with a slight convex.

[@GunnysSharptalk]

@@Maxman92 the tighter the belt the less convex the edge will be. On the front of the blade grinding attachment there’s a flat area that can give more of a V grind too.

[@craighathaway4640]

Does the attachment lock in? Like if you pick up the sharpener, will it fall or stay in place?

[@GunnysSharptalk]

Yes it locks in. You can pick it up and move it around and it doesn’t move.

[@bradsbladespro-sharpening5364]

Mine does not lock in.

[@GunnysSharptalk]

Brad's Pro Sharpening Your blade grinding attachment doesn’t lock in?

[@bradsbladespro-sharpening5364]

It attaches to the power base, but if I pick up the unit with the grinding attachment installed, it will fall down.

[@GunnysSharptalk]

Brad's Pro Sharpening mine does too

[@j.p.4541]

Thanks Gunny, appreciate you posting this video. Question, do I "need' the attachment for my knives and kukri that already have a convex edge? It seems the guides on the regular Ken Onion w/out attachment, would work better then having to free hand it?

[@GunnysSharptalk]

J. P. I prefere freehand and not use the regular Ken Onion. It can be used, but most people round their tips. I can use it fine but prefer the blade grinder because I can more accurately feel and see what’s going on with the blade.

[@mikeb.1674]

Is it easier to get the standard version that comes with the guide? Is there a difference in quality?

[@GunnysSharptalk]

The standard version tends to round the tips more easily. So most people will lose that sharp point on their tip with the standard version.

[@mikeb.1674]

@@GunnysSharptalk greatly appreciate that!!! I'm about to buy the elite right now!!!!!

[@GunnysSharptalk]

Anytime. If you get it and have questions you can message me. Contact me here or on FB.

[@stumpdiggitty]

Why couldn't they put a guide on there like on the non attached part..... 🙄 🙄

[@GunnysSharptalk]

Not sure why they don’t

[@thomaslong321]

You just taught 281 people how to add 10 degrees to what ever angle is already on there knife and to continue adding 10 degrees every time they sharpen it. You want your knife going into the desired angled belt flat not angle your knife at current degrees into a 10 degrees angled belt. Just saying

[@GunnysSharptalk]

I disagree with your assessment. So since I am doing it wrong, please make a video and educate us all with your vast knowledge. My edges speak for themselves. If you are adding 10 degrees every time you sharpen from what you gathered from this video then you obviously misunderstood the video. So please educate the community. I welcome more videos from others.

[@maarten4581]

@@GunnysSharptalk If I understand correctly this remark is about the information on 0:58. It's easy to see how this informationis wrong by making a drawing and measuring the resulting angles. I would upload it, if YT offered attachments in the comments. If the blade grinding attachment is set to a certain angle, this is relative to horizontal. Tilting the blade will add the tilted degrees to the sharpening angle. Your edges may speak for themselves, but you yourself said in the video that you like to freehand when sharpening. So you wouldn't notice this.

[@TriforceofPi]

This is super late, but I think the issue in understanding is in the wording we use to describe knife geometry. In the video, he said to place the "bevel" on the flat guide. what he means is the primary bevel (aka the grind), not the cutting edge (secondary bevel). This means that you wouldn't be adding 10 degrees every time, since your primary bevel doesn't change with sharpening. All that changes is what you are measuring your cutting edge angle against. Using the advice in the video, if the grinder is set at 20 degrees, then the cutting edge will have a 20 degree angle relative to the primary bevel. This would be around 30 degrees relative to horizontal (assuming the primary bevel is 10 degrees which it very well might not be). If you were using a common kitchen knife, there wouldn't be any confusion because the entire blade aside from the cutting edge is essentially the primary bevel. But the pocket knife he is using has a primary bevel that begins below the spine of the blade. Hopefully this clears up any confusion.