Technics SL-1710 Turntable Maintenance

[@nicholasgarratt5646]

Currently playing David Bowie on my SL 1700 with a Shure V15 III. I love it :)

[@Palosrob]

I have a SL-1700 that I bought new in 1978. After 46 years, I think its time to replace the caps, especially those leaky pesky Matsushita ones. I know many people say don't fix what aint broken, and the caps look ok, but at near half a century why take the chance? Especially since I've babied the thing its whole life. I realize the 1710 is just a 1700 but in black. Appreciate this video!

[@TurntableGuy]

Good job, Jan. That 1700 will probably outlive all of us.

[@JanBeta]

I hope so, it‘s such a lovely turntable! Great job with your videos, by the way! I’ve watched quite a few of them and learned a lot! 👍

[@TurntableGuy]

@@JanBeta Thank-you. You're my go-to-guy for Commodore repairs!

[@yeoldestuff]

The original thermal grease that Technics used is non-perishing, I recapped my SP10mk2 (made in 1980s) in 2020, and the thermal compound was in perfect condition. I also worked on a Technics SU-3500 integrated amplifier from early 1970s, and the thermal grease was in perfect condition as well.

[@JanBeta]

Yes, the grease was not dried up in this one. They must have used really good stuff back then indeed! The only portion that was completely dry was the part that connects the heatsink to the case. :)

[@postersm7141]

I am impressed, this guy obviously knows what he’s doing. I could not have done it better myself.

[@giuseppelavecchia775]

Technics,sui giradischi leader mondiale!

[@VW--mo3zt]

Hi, thanks for the video upload, i was able to open and lube the pots, bearing! SL-1710 speed adjustment pots now working properly 😊

[@JanBeta]

Excellent! Makes me really happy the video was helpful! Enjoy your magnificent turntable! :)

[@VW--mo3zt]

@@JanBetai notice your that your tt doesn’t have technics by panasonic. Any difference between the two? Do you have idea when my tt was made? Thanks

[@JanBeta]

@@VW--mo3zt Oh, no idea when they did that. Might even be that they changed it depending on the region the turntables were sold. Maybe "Panasonic" was better known in some parts of the world than the (then) relatively new "Technics" sub brand.

[@VW--mo3zt]

@@JanBeta thanks

[@ilianstoimenov6619]

I bought an 1710 a few months ago and I like it very much. Brought it to the service for RCA cable replacement and oiling but if I had found this video earlier I would've requested the capacitor change and would've tried to do some of the work myself, at least the oiling and dampening fluid. I am saving the video for further work on it. Thank you!

[@JanBeta]

Nice! These things are really great turntables indeed. The capacitor replacement makes sense as I pointed out because it (hopefully) puts less stress on the IC. Hope you have a lot of joy with the Technics for a long time to come! 🤞

[@introsphereakafelixus]

This is pure gold. I have a SL-1710 and will definitely come back if I service mine!

[@JanBeta]

Nice! Hope everything goes well when you do it. These are excellent turntables and relatively easy to maintain to live (hopefully) a long time to come. :)

[@SimonWilkie]

As I’ve loved using mine for ages and also watch your channel for years this has given me the push I needed to service my own. Thank you for this great video! ❤

[@JanBeta]

Hey, that's awesome! Hope you are going to have fun working on the turntable. It is definitely rewarding to give it some servicing and make it last for even longer. :)

[@bobrandale4864]

I love this! Mine is a Sansui SR-636 direct drive - Sorry, no dates were printed in the manual, so I do not know when it was manufactured. I seem to remember purchasing it in 1978, though...

[@postersm7141]

I am rocking a 1979 techniques SL 3300 that I bought broken from a pawn shop for 50 bucks. I put minimal work into it and now it’s as good as new.

[@raythomas4812]

Nice Turntable, nice to see what's inside. The Engineering of these things always amazes me. I have A Technics 1500 , which sounds excellent, but would never take it apart .

[@JanBeta]

Yeah, lovely mechanics and electronics that were built to last. The 1500 is not that different from this one, I believe. They are not that difficult to take apart. Probably worth doing a recapping eventually, to make it last even longer. :)

[@thedoublesuser]

I just bought an SL-1300 and this video was mir revealing and detailed than many I saw dedicated to the SL-1300. Excellent tip to replace the small capacitors with modern ones! Love the tip. Thank you. Actually I am now motivated to look out for a SL-1600/1700 😂

[@JanBeta]

Nice! The 1300 is actually the "better" model, so you don't necessarily need to get a 1600/1700 (although you can of course never own too many nice turntables). ;)

[@milanmihajlovic8569]

Thanks for this video. I have been waiting a long time for a complete restoration video for the 1710. I have one and love it very much. Will never replace it. It is built like a tank and the quality is better than Nasa's satellites 😊. Mine is from 1977 and has never been opened, oiled or anything. Works like it was new. Uses Nagaoka MP200 and Ortofon Bronze. What a sound I get. But now the old man will undergo a restoration just like yours.

[@JanBeta]

Excellent! Glad to be helpful. The Technics turntables from that era are extremely well built indeed. Not much that can fail if you maintain them properly, literally built like NASA satellites (also at the same time as the Voyagers, coincidentally... :D).

[@olik136]

I have some Dual turntables from the early 70s and it is interesting to see how different they are. Basically there is the electric motor running directly from the mains and everything else is mechanical.

[@JanBeta]

Running the motor directly from the mains and relying on the mains frequency for speed adjustment seems to be a German approach to turntables. Thorens did the same thing with their early models. I’ve never worked on either of those brands but read up on them a bit after somebody showed pictures of their Thorens on Mastodon. Interesting!

[@ronny332]

Replacing the capacitors of the power supply is a great idea. I have a 1210 MK5 (bought new, works great) and a recolored MK2 in white, looks great. I thinks it from the 80s. But since years I keep it in the cabinet, because there is always a bit mains buzz on one channel. I renewed the wiring years ago together with the pickup and always thought, I did something wrong, but was never able to find something ... the capacitors looked good, so I kept them where they were.

[@JanBeta]

Definitely worth a try! If you have mains hum in the output signal it is either a grounding issue or leaky filter capacitors. Hope you manage to fix the 1210! Very much worth it giving it another try, these things are absolutely magnificent!

[@miked4377]

everything you do on here is very impressive..you know your stuff mr.beta!!

[@JanBeta]

Thanks so much! I did quite a bit of research before I dared tackling my beloved turntable. :D

[@michaelcarey]

Excellent service job Jan. You have a very nice turntable that will continue to give excellent performance into the future.

[@JanBeta]

Thanks! I sure hope so. There's not that much that can go wrong with these really, unless the IC fails (which I hope I prevented with the recapping). :D

[@lcaise]

Great stuff! I bought todat "broken and not working" SL1710 today!! Will try to bring it to life sooon!!! Thanx!

[@JanBeta]

Hope you can get it to work again! These things are awesome turntables and there’s very little that can go wrong really. Fingers crossed! 🤞

[@imranahmad2733]

I've repaired a few of the sl1210mk2 for a DJ friend of mine, used to get alot of frayed wires in the tone arm and one having a issue with the speed not being constant needing a control IC to be replaced, parts are getting expensive for them now.

[@the_holy_forestfairy]

Allgemein, Vintage-Tech von Technics ist immer ein Kauf wert! Ob Plattenspieler, Tape-Deck, etc. Ich rede hier von Sachen aus den 70er bis in die späten 90er, denn ich finde Technics hat Anfang der 2000er nicht stark, jedoch merklich, qualitativ nachgelassen.

[@JanBeta]

Technics hat auf jeden Fall immer gute Qualität abgeliefert früher. Die neuen Plattenspieler sind wohl auch gut (vermutlich, weil sie größtenteils seit den 70ern unverändert sind). :D

[@brixiu5]

Love the video and I just wanted to add that low viscosity means I fluid flows very easily. Damping fluid would have a very high viscosity by comparison.

[@JanBeta]

Whoops, I got that confused. Sorry! Glad you liked the video! :D

[@EdwinNoorlander]

I still love and use my 1610

[@JanBeta]

Nice! The 1610 is very similar to the 1710 I believe, same tone arm assembly but with some added mechanics for the automatics. Should last you a long time still, hopefully. Maybe a recapping wouldn't hurt to keep the IC fresh. ;)

[@EdwinNoorlander]

@@JanBeta yes. I have fixed de timing. The 1610 have a repeat en auto start and stop. I was looking for a broken one to make it full controlled with my own PCB. But this one was fully working on some timing issues.

[@jaycee1980]

Ortofon 2M, very nice cartridge :) I have an OM5E on my Sansui SR222mkII, which could do with a new belt and new rubber supports for the motor

[@JanBeta]

The 2M series seems to be really great value for money. Plus, you can upgrade the stylus on the red cartridge to the blue one for even better quality. The Sansui looks like a really nice turntable as well. Hope you have lots of joy giving it some well deserved servicing. :)

[@audiostuff2947]

Hi, danke für das aufschlussreiche Tutorial mit Innenansichten. Verwendetest Du bei den kleineren Elkos möglicherweise das RM 2,5 (Rastermaß 2,5) ? Würde dann demnächst, hier bei Dir noch eine Besorgungsliste dazu einstellen. Da haben sich bei Deinen Angaben 2 Fehler hinsichtl. Spanunng und Kapazität (bezugnehmend d. Manuals) eingeschlichen.....

[@JanBeta]

Ja, die kleinen Elkos sind RM 2,5. Die originalen hatten das gleiche Rastermaß. Wobei das eher unwesentlich ist, die Abstände auf dem Board sind eher größer und sollten auch mit anderen Maßen problemlos passen. Die Elko-Liste habe ich von den ausgelöteten Teilen abgeschrieben und nicht aus dem SM. Kann sein, dass sich da Fehler eingeschlichen haben (oder es gibt verschiedene Versionen der Platine, was zu der Zeit relativ gängig war). :)

[@audiostuff2947]

@@JanBeta ...okidoki. Dann macht es wohl mehr Sinnn wenn ich mich nach meinem eigenem Elko-Tausch nochmal melde. - Denn laut deinem verlinkten Manual gibt es keinen 4,7 uF ?! - Der 10 uF auf C13 ist 50 Volt (nicht 25V) - Der 0,33 uF/50V ist 2x vorhanden, auf C15 und C8

[@user-Atamigaputer]

Thanks Jan, love your vids, keep up the good work, i want more atari stuff. Got any 810 or 1050 drives not working

[@JanBeta]

Thanks! More Atari stuff coming very soon! I made a couple of 1050 videos a while back, you might want to check them out for some insights into how they work. :)

[@landspide]

Really nice turntable

[@JanBeta]

Yes! The Technics turntables from the era are absolutely magnificent. They still make the 1210 to this day (virtually unchanged from the 70s model) for a reason, not much you can do better in terms of reliability and usability, I guess. :)

[@svenjansen506]

Hi Jan, I use a Technics SL 1500 and a SL-1900 myself. I have already completed the work you have done on my equipment. You've done a great job! But are you sure that the modern headsells and modern pickups are better than the original Technics SH-98 headshell together with the Technics EPC-270 C-II? I've fitted the EPC-270 C-II with a new elliptical replica needle and I'm thrilled. Unlike other systems, the needle carrier does not seem to sound duller with age. Maybe you could give the EPC-270 C-II a another chance. Cheers!

[@JanBeta]

The original pickups are very good indeed. In the end, it's a matter of taste as with all things sound & music. :) I am not sure if my particular original pickup was compromised in some way, but I definitely heard a lot of improvement with the Ortofon. Clearer high frequencies and tighter bass response in my case. I used the original pickup for a long time and had several elliptical replacement needles for it as well but it still didn't sound as crisp as the new one.

[@svenjansen506]

@@JanBeta Hello and thank you for your reply. I will take this as an opportunity to test a modern system (I'm thinking of a Denon DL103) on the Technics. Cheers!

[@JanBeta]

The Denons should be a very good match! Didn’t try them myself but I was considering the DL103 myself for my Technics. :)

[@LostinTranslation2.0]

Sehr gutes Video. Vielen Dank für die wertvollen Hinweise. Eine Frage habe ich noch am Rande: ich weiß nicht, ob es der Trafo ist oder evtl der Chip oder …, aber ich höre ein deutliches Brummgeräusch, sobald der SL-1700 mit Strom versorgt wird und eingeschaltet ist. Hast Du evtl einen Lösungsansatz? VG

[@JanBeta]

Danke! Das Brummen ist wahrscheinlich der Trafo, schätze ich. Bei älteren Geräten ruckeln sich manchmal über die Jahre die Windungen ein bisschen los. Dagegen hilft nach meiner Erfahrung eine Behandlung mit einem Mittel zur Platinenversiegelung ganz gut (ich benutze Kontakt Chemie Plastik 70), das du großzügig in die Windungen des Trafos sprühst, um sie quasi neu zu vergießen/verkleben. Habe ich schon bei einigen älteren Receivern erfolgreich so gemacht. Aber Vorsicht, das Zeug ist tatsächlich quasi flüssiges Plastik, wird seeehr hart, wenn es trocknet, und stinkt erbärmlich. Ich empfehle so eine Behandlung nur unter freiem Himmel. Das Trafobrummen ist aber ansonsten auch nicht wirklich gefährlich. Dass sich die Isolierung der Windungen tatsächlich irgendwann durchreibt, habe ich nur äußerst selten erlebt.

[@LostinTranslation2.0]

Besten Dank nochmal!!!

[@jorgepino8254]

I had a similar issue with my Turntable, SL 1600. I removed the transformer bracing, placed electrical tape around the edges of the transformer and reinstalled it into the brace. Transformer hum completely resolved. I’ve read of others having similar positive experiences.

[@HometownUnicorn]

30:25 saucy!

[@Tabula__Rasa]

Hi, ich bin begeistert von deinem Video und hab mir vorgenommen die selbe Prozedur zu machen. Ich hab nur Unterschiede in deiner Teile Liste zum Schaltplan festgestellt. Ist das so gewollt? Ich möchte keinen Fehler machen. In der Liste 1x 4.7uf 25v 1x 10uf 25v Laut Schaltplan 1x 4,7uf 50v Position c4 1x 10uf 50v Position c13 Und danke noch mal das du dir die Arbeit mit dem Video gemacht hast.

[@JanBeta]

Die Spannungsangaben auf den Kondensatoren sind immer für die höchste Spannung, die die Kondensatoren "vertragen". Hier bleibt die Spannung auf der Platine immer unter 25V, deshalb sind die ausreichend. Ich gehe häufig auf die nächste Stufe, benutze also Kondensatoren mit etwas höherer Spannung. Das erhöht die Lebensdauer leicht, so viel ich weiß. Der langen Rede kurzer Sinn: Beide Spannungen sind okay, so lange du nichts benutzt, was die Spannungen in einer Schaltung nicht verträgt.

[@Tabula__Rasa]

@@JanBeta danke für die Antwort

[@DavePoo2]

The Gnomes of Mount Nevermind say that everything is better with more grease!

[@JanBeta]

More grease is the solution for many things! 😅

[@al.d9592]

I bought that special oil for my 1210. it’s super expensive but will last for 1000 years. Or 1000 players

[@xXCowGoesWoofX7]

Hey I have the same table and it recently started giving me issues. The left channel was weak and crackly so I replaced the RCA cables which fixed it for a little, but now the problem is back and with it now the platter itself doesn't spin some of the time. Any ideas where I should look? is it worth a recap to see if that fixes anything? Very informative video, thanks!

[@JanBeta]

Hi! The sound output and the motor circuitry are completely independent in this turntable. The sound issues likely occur because of a bad connection from the cartridge to the outputs, especially the thin wires in the tonearm might be brittle and broken. It may also just be dirty/corroded contacts on the cartridge where it meets the tonearm contacts. I’d try to remove the cartridge and clean those contacts with alcohol or mild contact cleaner and a cotton swab first. The speed issues/platter not turning are mostly caused by dirty speed adjustment potentiometers (a bit of non corrosive contact cleaner usually helps). They might be caused by bad capacitors, too. Or you have some severe lubrication issues. In the worst case, the IC itself is broken. Replacing the caps is a very good idea given their age anyway (as I explained). Hope that helps!

[@xXCowGoesWoofX7]

@@JanBeta Thanks for replying. I actually used your video as a maintenance guide when I first got it, so the potentiometers and contacts are all cleaned but I think I'll go ahead and give some new capacitors a try and maybe a different headshell/stylus to see if the replacement I got is somehow faulty. I'll also check the tonearm wiring for continuity through to the RCA board. Intermittent issues are such a pain but I appreciate your insight, hope it all goes well! thanks!

[@xXCowGoesWoofX7]

@@JanBeta I went ahead with all the preventative maintenance you showed in the video and I'm happy to say that my 1710 seems fully healthy now, thank you for making this video it was a huge help! My audio issue nearly drove me crazy because while it seemed to be within the table itself, it was actually likely from a dirty input selector and cold solder joints in my receiver. A very strange way to present an audio problem, but it's been resolved (for now). Thanks for everything!

[@JanBeta]

@xXCowGoesWoofX7 Really happy to hear that! Hope your 1710 lasts you a long time! 😊

[@JeHaVe]

Darf ich fragen ob Sie diese fachmännische Revision auch für andere Besitzer von Plattenspielern durchführen?

[@JanBeta]

Leider kann ich keine Auftragsarbeiten machen, weil mir die nötige Ausbildung und Versicherung fehlt! (Siehe auch meine Website janbeta.net)

[@JeHaVe]

@@JanBeta,vielen Dank für Ihre Antwort. Ich werde Ihre Video's sehr gerne folgen 👍

[@TheSquaredM]

This would’ve been much more interesting if your camera work had been better showing details of what you were doing. Explaining choices of your pics of capacitors and why you were doing what and why you were leaving certain capacitors and why that was OK. Interesting video that could’ve only been made better with greater production values.

[@zero0ryn]

My SL-7 still works great, but the audio distorts badly at high frequencies.I changed the cartridge to an ortofon OM10 but its still the same :( I tried to increase the tracking weight but it didn't really make any difference.

[@JanBeta]

Mh, the cartridge/stylus would have been my first suspect for high frequency noise, too. Maybe bad records or too much dust? Or maybe there’s a problem with the preamp? Not much else that could be causing the issue, I guess. The audio output should just be the output from the cartridge just going directly to the turntable outputs. Internal wiring could be an issue, too, but usually that would cause more havoc than just distorting high frequencies. 🤔

[@zero0ryn]

@@JanBeta I'm using an ART usb preamplifier, I tried a new stylus, though it's not a genuine one.

[@JanBeta]

Is the preamp set up correctly (MM cartridge, gain not clipping, ground wire properly connected)? There’s not much that can go wrong with the turntable and cartridge itself I guess. If you have the chance, I’d suggest trying another preamp or an amplifier with a phono input. Never tried one of those Art preamps but they don’t have a very good reputation (according to some customer reviews I’ve read). Maybe you just got a faulty unit. Dust on the records or electrostatic buildup can also cause high frequency distortion. If you have a carbon brush to clean the records before playing, that might also help. Otherwise I’m out of ideas.

[@nicholasgarratt5646]

Anyone know what the difference between the SL1700 that I have and the SL1710?

[@JanBeta]

The 1X10s are just the dark colored versions of the 1X00s for the Technics turntables. They are identical technically, it's just a naming convention for the case color. :)

[@paulschreuder4211]

Nice turntable again. Today on the china mail i received the same vacuum extention kit you are using in the video :-) Did you use the handy RPM wow/flutter app for smartphones on this turntable? Tnx for sharing Jan. 👍

[@JanBeta]

Oh, I'm going to have to try the app. I completely forgot it existed! :D The vacuum kit is super useful. Although I barely use it for its intended purpose (which I think is PC cleaning). :D

[@scottifly]

Is anyone making a new control/drive chip to replace the AN630? The originals are unreliable due to being ancient.

[@JanBeta]

I didn't find any replacements in my own research but it should be possible so hopefully somebody comes up with a solution at some point.

[@snowdog993]

Should last at least 49710 days. Those that know, know.

[@twocvbloke]

I like how they refer to it as "special oil" that they want people to use on a generic bronze sleeve bearing, cos such bearings aren't that special, a decent machine oil is all that's needed really, nothing special about it... :P

[@JanBeta]

Yeah, nothing special about that special oil as far as I know. I've seen other KZbinrs use light car motor oil to lubricate those shafts. Any proper machine oil is going to do fine (I've been using sowing machine oil for years without any issues).

[@twocvbloke]

@@JanBeta On various sleeve bearings I have, I just use a generic 3-in-1 type oil, which does the job nicely as that's wha the oil's meant for, paying over the odds because it has a brand name on it (or because it's "special") makes no sense to me at all... :)

[@Doomchild2XL]

Just noticed that "Schacht" und "Schaft" both are "shaft" in English. It's such a silly language sometimes.