Techniques that Make or Break Your Board Climbing

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Climbs featured: Wuthering Heights V4, Al a gait or V4, Magnum V6.
Special thanks to pro climber and Olympian Kyra Condie for joining us today! Find her on Instagram at Kyra_Condie ( / kyra_condie )
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⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Overview
00:19 Kyra's method for big moves off high feet
02:00 Why climbers get stuck "in between" holds
04:12 When NOT to open-hand holds (crimp!!)
06:08 Sometimes you can't "technique" your way out
07:39 Why you must learn to dig behind holds
09:27 Why your movement looks clunky sometimes
10:21 Jason makes a great point but fails hilariously
12:12 When your arm and shoulder is "out of sync"
13:33 Climbers have been misled about "disengaged" shoulders
15:47 Kyra's final beta
16:27 Embarrassing story
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 145
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⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy

[@HoopersBeta]

Hi everyone! Sorry for the slightly noisy audio in this one; the gym was POPPIN' when we filmed. Totally worth it though ;) 👋 Get 20% Off Any Frictitious Hangboard with a Doorway Mount (No promo code, drill or complicated setup needed) ▶ frictitiousclimbing.com/collections/all

[@DanielBParada]

Couldn’t stop laughing at the edits when Dan saved Jason’s point 😂

[@HoopersBeta]

Haha yeah that also got me cracking up. Great work on Emile's part ;) And thank you Dan :) hah

[@Glenners]

That part was so funny lmao. Great editing!

[@NestorMandela]

Best part of my day!

[@darkwhizzkido]

Hahaha the self burn was well done.

[@chaozzah]

Honestly, you actually proved your point perfectly. By doing all that, you gas out. Precisely as he did! So, great job basically.

[@xyzzy10000]

Kyra's advice about pulling up with the arms before pushing with the foot is gold. I always wondered why I seem to push myself away from the wall on big high foot moves like that. Also love her beta about never using 3 finger drag altho I suspect that's mostly genetic; always in awe of the sorcerers who claim that 3 fingers is stronger for them than 4 fingers

[@arselihp]

Love this format--the chalkboard analysis of people's videos is useful, but actually demo'ing the suggestions is even better. (And the Montage of Shame was hilarious.)

[@kxyz1588]

would love to see more content with Kyra!

[@HoopersBeta]

She'll definitely be in more of our videos! :)

[@michaelazevedo845]

Soo good! Jason’s example in the middle is an instant classic. Love the humor woven in with great advice.

[@ComputerManDanMiller]

As someone who is actually stronger in 3-finger drag than half crimp I tend to open hand basically anytime I can and only crimp if I absolutely have to. Part of this is because my half crimp isn't strong yet (minor injuries) but if you practice open hand a lot you start to find it's good in a lot of different positions and hold types. You can't pull in as easily open hand but unless the hold is really small or slopey I've never really had any issue keeping tight while open. Edit: Typed this before letting them finish their explanation about the tradeoffs. Hah, that'll teach me.

[@lazeavlad]

Damn the Dan making the point was the most hilarious thing I've seen today😂

[@HoopersBeta]

haha that was one of my favorite parts also. Had me laughing out loud.

[@withaspoon8]

The board climbing videos are great! Could you please do a video all about jumping to holds on board climbs? The scorpion video was great at explaining the end position, I just want to understand the generating and catching the hold part better.

[@HoopersBeta]

Great idea! Thanks for the suggestion

[@battleXsummonerXftw]

Yeah the generating momentum for a jump in weird positions is really difficult

[@ianderk6527]

Ep. 146: Rehabbing your pride after the edit calls you out

[@HoopersBeta]

Haha so good! Thanks for the idea 😂 I've gotten so many laughs out of the edit itself + subsequent comments it's been great.

[@Advians]

How relatable! Watching hoppers beta on the tv mounted next to the door way where my hangboard is 😂

[@HoopersBeta]

haha niiiice, love that!

[@JWMathreMusic]

It’s worth emphasizing even more that climbers should be training through that lengthened position of the lats and other muscles, as research shows that the stretched end of movements in resistance training has the biggest affect on muscle growth.

[@Glenners]

LOVE this kind of (micro)beta! The pulling in vs pulling down on small crimps on an overhang, not pushing with your feet too early because you'll just push yourself out, etc. I've yet to see a video talk about footwork when it comes to how your toes are bent in aggressive shoes. Are you actually putting the tip of your hooked toe on the chip? Or is your toe going above the chip so you're hooking it with your bent toes? Someone has to make a clear shoe so we can see in detail :P . I'd also LOVE to see some holds with a force gauge to see how the pressures are transferring from left to right hand, or opposing limps, or hands to feet, etc.

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad you approve!! Toe placement sort of just depends on the climb/hold. E.g. do you need to push on the hold or pull on it? And yeah, holds with force gauges would be so cool! We've talked about that for a long time, but the cost to build something like that is somewhat prohibitive at the moment. But if we someday have a training facility, that would be high on our list!

[@JS-sb4ri]

Wow this is maybe the best video on technique I've ever seen...so many of the points resonated for me as a v8ish board climber. Thanks for doing it.

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad you found it useful! Working on part 2 now :)

[@jackylee4132]

perfect timing! that high feet advice is exactly what i needed to hear!!!

[@seb6302]

Really like the demos!

[@danielbeall7725]

Thanks!! Stay tuned for part 2! Hopefully we’ll be able to dial in this sort of approach and make more and better in the future!

[@Olaussen76]

just the video I needed. Have been struggling with the moonboard.

[@a22549338]

Thank you so much for great content. Definitely want more videos on moonboard which I can try same climb with you guys

[@InspiredPhotons]

Loved every minute! Felt validating to hear the experts confirm and add depth to lessons I've experienced on the Mini Moonboard :)

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks for sharing! Glad this was validating and glad you've learned some lessons on the board already!

[@EricSong-jm7ci]

Love this format with the moonboard since I can try out the suggestions in my gym!

[@paulgaras2606]

13:46 Jason joins team full rom

[@tuomosirkka2577]

Really good stuff, thank you!

[@VeryShortClimberBeta]

Quality advice and explanations as always! Wish I watched this a couple days ago, would've really come in handy for some failed attempts yesterday 😅

[@gtjac]

Great video this week!

[@LoveAndClimbing]

Now that you've brought it to my attention, I'm so sad that I've apparently been not training the pull-up to full range of motion because now that I think back this is so obviously why I got a shoulder injury in January 2021.

[@hansmoleman7280]

1:18 First, pull up with your arms then drive with your feet/legs once your arm(s) have pulled in as much as possible. Also note, her left foot is almost in line with your left hand. 3:53 Suck in the shoulder (face to the hold), left hip into the wall (slight drop knee), then 'bump' 4:09 Drop your via straight arm and weighting the left foot to match.

[@gryphon940]

On month 9 of climbing and this video taught me so many fixes to problems I run into. Thank you!

[@HoopersBeta]

Awesome! We love to hear that! Thanks for sharing.

[@solomonreinman7452]

7:21 my two favorite kinds of boards in the same shot, nice classic longboards and a nice wooden hangboard

[@HoopersBeta]

Yew! San Diego surf + climb action :)

[@user-en2pj2zo3p]

gr8 video - thx guys!

[@HoopersBeta]

You're welcome! Glad you enjoyed it.

[@user-mr7le8pl1q]

love this

[@fabianschonfelsler7198]

Thank you very much for this one! @dan: Is tilting the optimal technique whenever the foot is too much out to be fully loaded in a horizontal position? Does tilting naturally require to bend arms and pull-in in order to stay close to the wall befor initiating the move?

[@jakobmelchior6701]

Great Video concept. Please do more of these. Also would be helpful the link the problems in the video description.

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks! We definitely will. What do you mean by "link the problems"? We provided the names of the climbs but is there a website that you're referring to where we could get links?

[@jakobmelchior6701]

Sorry must have overlooked the names in the description 🙈 Also for selfish reasons would be great if you do the next round on the 2019 or 2024 Moonboard 😅

[@gratengelsker7614]

Hey Hooper! Great video! Also, I have a question for you, hopefully something you will find intriguing! I think you mentioned before that climbing makes the fingers adapt phsyically to the pressure and that climbers fingers are different than the average person. What do these changes consist of? And can this change how the fingers looks from the outside too? My fingers have a somewhat interesting shape. Though they don't look really robust at all even after climbing for many years, the part of my fingers closer to the tips are a lot thinner! Resembling a sort of cone-shape haha! Could this be the result of climbing? When grabbing holds (crimps, slopers, everything) I don't feel much pressure towards the tips at all, all the tension is more towards the bigger finger joints. Is there maybe a worse/better way to apply pressure to holds? Also, nails are interesting when it comes to climbing, I think. Do we have any knowledge of how nail shape affects climbing? The external looks of the fingers are something that I don't hear much discussion on when it comes to climbing. Maybe content idea? ;) Greetings from Norway!

[@RPD_ps]

I love this channel so much lol

[@HoopersBeta]

🥰

[@sad_sloper-cl2ks]

amazing editing 😂 is there anything on the kilter board already that is kind of a benchmark? i don't really like the moon board, haha also loved the breakdown of the technique, even if you know a lot of this already it still helps to see it applied and analysed in a more advanced way

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed the episode :). I'm not familiar with the Kilter Board unfortunately, though that will hopefully change soon as there's a new gym opening up nearby next month. -Emile

[@alvaroc6326]

That moonlight sonata moment made me laugh so much

[@HoopersBeta]

Haha Emile crushed the edit! I laughed so hard the first time I saw it.

[@ayuminor]

The "Jason's point" bit 😂

[@middle-agedclimber]

😅oh man, that was super funny 🤣

[@idjung4]

The efficient feet bit LMAOO.

[@HoopersBeta]

Haha, brutality! Loved it :)

[@wisconsinair]

Can we have a Dan vs. normal climber movement comparison?

[@HoopersBeta]

Yeah that'd be fun! We'll discuss when he's back in the country :)

[@Mattystem]

Do you have any advice for shorter climbers doing reachy moves on the moonboard? Not pertaining to V6 but the last 14 V7 boulders I have been stuck on while having a 168cm span, would love to send footage and hear your thoughts!

[@HoopersBeta]

Hey there! Have you seen our previous Anatomy of the Climb episodes (it’s a playlist on our channel)? All of the techniques we talk about are applicable to shorter climbers. We also actually have an episode called “Don’t Blame Wingspan! These Mistakes Limit Your Reach” (episode 131) that talks about this topic specifically. Of course, you can always send in footage next time we open submissions (we post about it on Instagram)! Hope that helps! -Emile

[@mariohenriquetb]

Why i would like to break my board climbing?

[@urabagofcells2228]

1:25 🙃 the ipad nerds silently trying not to correct how Kyra's using the arrows wrong

[@HoopersBeta]

Half the time they were holding the ipad upside down too xD -Emile

[@travisladuke9662]

I hate that pizza slice hold

[@daviddos99]

totally disagree with your opinion on open hand grips. You guys presented it as the open hand grip could only be usefull in special ocassions. I think thats a huge underestimate! It really depends on what you practise more, my half crimp is way weaker than my open hand grip + there are way diffrent load distributions on your pulleys. So it might be favorable to train both and mixing it up. That way you avoid a one sided load.

[@HoopersBeta]

Sounds like you favor open hand because it’s far stronger than your half crimp? Which is totally fine by me - everyone has their preferences and if it works for you then who cares what anyone else says? We’ve talked about the merits of open hand grips many times on this channel. Personally, I prefer using the grip that best suits the hold rather than (for example) being forced to use an open hand because my half crimp is too weak to grip an incut. -Emile

[@Sean-mf3ll]

Just a tad too technical for practical purposes yes? “FICTISCIOUS” 🥶😳

[@HoopersBeta]

?

[@blindsuns1]

😂😂😂

[@XalphabotX]

First

[@HoopersBeta]

Hello there!

[@sebastianbrenke9773]

This is exaclty what I need right before the scheduled Moonboard Session 🦾 Thanks for the pointers 😊

[@HoopersBeta]

Yew! Next session will be a good one :)