Don't Blame Wingspan! These Mistakes Limit Your Reach

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WHO ARE WE?
Hooper's Beta is a passion project, started by Emile Modesitt and Jason Hooper. Help us create the Largest Library of Free Training and Recovery Videos for Climbers by subscribing, sharing, and shopping with the affiliate links below!
⌛ TIMESTAMPS
00:00 Intro & Video Overview
00:28 Climb 1: Lateral Dyno
00:42 Climb 1 Analysis: Hip, Foot Placement Issues
02:31 Climb 1 Demonstration: 3 Mistakes to Avoid
02:49 Mistake #1
04:10 Mistake #2
05:51 Mistake #3
06:51 Climb 2: Vertical Dynamic Move
08:16 Climb 2 Analysis: Humans Aren't Made for This
9:14 Climb 2 Demonstration: Why Climbing Training is Weird
10:40 Drill #1
11:43 Drill #2
13:20 Drill #3
14:57 Climb 3: Full Span Move
15:21 Climb 3 Analysis (Dan): Need More Extension
16:36 Climb 3 Demonstration (Dan): Maximizing Reach
19:02 Climb 3 Analysis (Jason): Figuring Out Body Position
19:36 Climb 3 Demonstration (Jason): Reverse Engineering Movement
21:20 Recap of What We've Learned
📝 SHOW NOTES
Episode 131
www.hoopersbeta.com/library/h...
⚠️ DISCLAIMER
As always, exercises and rehab programs are to be performed assuming your own risk and should not be done if you feel you are at risk for injury. See a medical professional if you have concerns before starting a new training or recovery program.
#trainclimbsendrepeat #climbingtraining #doctorofphysicaltherapy

[@HoopersBeta]

If you'd like to be featured in a video follow us on Instagram @hoopersbetaofficial! Sorry about the background drill noises in the gym 😭we will avoid filming while they're route setting in the future!

[@huntergibson7675]

Awesome video! Not related, but can you make a video about toe health and ways to fix toe pain? I’ve recently started experiencing a lot of big toe pain even though I’ve been climbing for many years

[@VeryShortClimberBeta]

I've watched (what I assume to be) every single KZbin video on climbing technique for maximizing reach, and this one gets so much more technical and situational that I feel like I have a lot of new ideas to try and practice. Great vid as always! Always honored to be featured but honestly more stoked at all the lessons to learn in this one 😁

[@HoopersBeta]

Yayy that’s great to hear! Thanks for submitting the video(s) in the first place!

[@meclimbing]

I've been pretty over Athletic Greens ad reads on all the climbing channels but I actually watched this one. Good work Emile!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you! :)

[@andresanchez2000]

Thanks so much for including my video in your analysis! This is so interesting and makes so much sense as I've recently been dealing with chronic runner's knee and after going to a sport's medicine doc he told me that I had overdeveloped and tight quads and weak glutes in comparison and he recommended stretching the quad and strengthening the glutes. These drills with be so helpful for both my climbing and my runners knee!

[@WyandWombat]

I think this was the first time I watched an AG1 ad.

[@jhy8191]

Jason + Dan = amazingly detailed and practical information!

[@emilholck87]

Couldnt agree more!

[@jensplinzler1604]

With such good content, wo cares about drilling noise. Keep up the awesome movenment videos!

[@HoopersBeta]

Haha thank you!! :)

[@triplea657aaa]

I love how you guys break down the biomechanics of how to do things.

[@victoryzy]

I was just about to skip the ad till I see where it went 😂 kudos to the team

[@HoopersBeta]

haha glad you enjoyed it! We try and make them fun.

[@maverickburns864]

great video! I really like the editing you guys have been doing recently, it adds a lot of quality to the videos

[@HoopersBeta]

Emile get's all the credit for that! I agree though, the edits really add to the video and make them more enjoyable to watch :) - Jason

[@middle-agedclimber]

You guys are providing a gem after gem. Watching every ad on your videos is the least we viewers should do.

[@HoopersBeta]

Much appreciated!

[@HP-cu2nl]

Love Dan's T-shirt No place too far Perfect for a video about dynos 😅

[@benja_mint]

the ad was so good i watched it twice

[@metyu3730]

These videos are getting better and better, thank you again! :-)

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad you think so! We are always looking for ways to improve.

[@blancheladera-puncer]

Thanks! A content that helps small climber to be more dynamic. Thanks for the drill, definitely gonna make it part of the warm up.

[@HoopersBeta]

We hope it helps! Happy climbing.

[@georgegray2712]

Thanks for the fantastic videos!! You two give the best technical advice on climbing on KZbin!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you for the kind words! Glad our advice is helpful.

[@krisbooth8441]

The concept presented at 20:50 blew my mind haha. So simple, but for some reason I never thought to do it.

[@HoopersBeta]

Definitely one of my favorites!

[@Birb_brain]

this is so useful. the analysis is thoughtful and the demonstration really helps translate on to the wall

[@HoopersBeta]

Awesome! Glad you think so :)

[@MohamedAshraf-fw1dc]

As always, your videos are golden, it’s like a Netflix show that I’m meaning to watch, and i know I’ll love, and i procrastinate getting to it, and then i get to it, and I’m thinking “i need to preserve this”, i need to pass this down to people - keep up the incredible content

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank so much!

[@martinofinotelli1884]

Very nice work guys! I especially found the first 2 videos very useful. Also, my favourite joke was the "physical" climb in the ad which was not physical at all :D

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad someone picked up on that 😂😂 those slabs are just so physical!

[@edpsych42]

Thanks so much for sharing this. What a great video!

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad you enjoyed it!

[@edpsych42]

@@HoopersBeta I’ve actually been able to apply the principles already. And successfully! 🙂

[@emilyjenkins7496]

Thank you!!!!

[@HoopersBeta]

You're welcome!

[@TheAbd1233]

Hey great video. I think it really helps understand the mechanism of dynoing. I am robotics engineering so been thinking of the mechanics of this but never made sense in my head.

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you! Glad it was helpful / helped clear things up!

[@richardthurston1208]

As a shitty climber coming from a small amount of ballet experience all of the training that ballet does in the turned out position seems to carry over extremely well to the drills mentioned for climb #2. Maybe cross training ballet would be a more fun way of developing strong jumps in the turned out position?

[@danielbeall7725]

I’d love to! Ballet has good carryover for a lot of sports, but I’ve found it difficult to find consistently good teachers / people able and willing to teach non-beginners in other sports. Any recommendations would be awesome!

[@crystalding5589]

I do this! Beginner in both ballet and climbing and dabble in various other sports and training methods, but what I love the most is discovering transferable skills and using them to get better across the board. Glad you’ve mentioned it!

[@robertpeschke7746]

Very interesting to track the progress of Jason's hairstyles throughout the videos. As a suggestion I think you should put together a progression videos of Jason's hair. kind of a "through the years" type video. Would be fascinating to track the progression. Meanwhile Dan is very consistent.

[@somefishhere]

Congrats on over 100 episodes! What app do you use for the video playback with arrows?

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you! We use OnForm

[@gball8466]

Does Dan have a source of the old orange Scarpa Instincts? They are the best slipper ever and I'm still salty they discontinued them.

[@danielbeall7725]

Sadly just a couple pairs left in my garage before they’re gone forever 😅 Kills me to even use them, but if they languish much longer they’ll just oxidize and turn into antiques 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@burningfear3336]

just want to thank you guys I used to use a wheelchair 50% of the time but after climbing for years i no longer need it yoour injury recovery was esppicialy important for me.

[@BeGravity4]

Just an excellent video

[@HoopersBeta]

Many thanks!

[@sebastiantory-pratt1373]

Thumbs up for the ad alone. The rest of the video was pretty quality too ;)

[@HoopersBeta]

haha :) thank you. I think our next one is pretty solid too - I'll be waiting to see your feedback (comes out next Monday!) - I'll be waiting for your feedback hah

[@patchiebeaver139]

Could you do an in depth video of interpalmar ligament injuries

[@HoopersBeta]

We would love to do rehab videos on any / all injuries. That one is a bit more niche, though, and may take a backseat for a bit compared to some other videos but it's on our radar :) Thanks for the suggestion!

[@patchiebeaver139]

@@HoopersBeta makes sense. I just dont have insurance so im not going to the doctor haha

[@bluepalmsmusic]

About the ads…I think the way Mr Beast integrates them into the plot of the video is the best way to go.

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks for the feedback, what did you think of this one though? I thought Emile crushed it.

[@bluepalmsmusic]

@@HoopersBeta it was very creative! It was good! But it is still skippable, because it is a standalone part of the video. Mr Beast talks about ads integration on the Lex Friedman podcast (available on KZbin). I hope it can elevate your content even higher!

[@Aaron-xq6hv]

@@HoopersBeta I preferred this one. It was amusing enough that I actually watched it, (probably the first time I've ever watched an ad on a climbing channel) but I could still skip it if I really wanted. So that seems like the perfect balance to me. Despite what the person below says, if they were "integrated" I'd likely just drop any channel that does that because I'd never know what's real or what's paid for.

[@benja_mint]

i'm a tall guy, and i wanna be even taller to skip even more holds. this video is gonna help me :D

[@HoopersBeta]

Be prepared for the ensuing hate from onlookers ;)

[@georgegray2712]

Main problem at 0:40 was he didn’t yell loud enough. When you scream, you should see flocks of birds fly out from the trees and the entire forest go quiet afterwards.

[@HoopersBeta]

Very true! No one teaches that properly! 😆

[@SonnyKnutson]

@Hooper's Beta What video analyzing program do you use in these videos?

[@James-mr5kb]

OnForm

[@sstrong42]

Modern movement analysis is what climbing has needed for, forever basically.

[@patchiebeaver139]

Can i climb with an interpalmar ligament injury. Theres never been pain. I just noticed something weird one day and its been inflamed inbetween the ring and pinky in the palm just under the knuckle

[@neo778]

Great content, because in climbing you allways can improve your technique, no matter how long you climb. Which app would you suggest to analyse moves? E.g. For slow motion, split view, painting arrows …?

[@HoopersBeta]

True! There is always room for improvement. We use an app called OnForm.

[@neo778]

@@HoopersBeta Thank you!

[@g0rbz]

lmao RIP @ 18:44

[@joetipton8681]

What are those adidas pants called?

[@ApequH]

A propper plie (ballet squad), in first or second position is great for climbers

[@HoopersBeta]

I was thinking that myself when filming! Seemed useful for these types of movements!

[@yourneighborwiththecutedog]

my pet peeve of climbing videos is when the camera person doesnt show the hold that is being reached for. its just so frustrating to not be able to see where the climber is trying to get to.

[@Cfontes82]

Coffee is considered a food group.... LOLed for real

[@HoopersBeta]

One of the best food groups.

[@rotamrofsnart]

I would love some pointers on how to move as a taller climber (2m) on routes that have high foot holds. I always feel like I'm being pushed out of the wall on those kind of routes.

[@Boogieforme]

Mmmm tastes like nutrients!

[@Lilwayha]

What will short people blame it on if they can't do it then?

[@HoopersBeta]

They won't need to blame it on anything once they send the climb ;)

[@Aidllorca]

What climbing shoes are they???

[@joetipton8681]

Old scarpa instinct S

[@danielbeall7725]

@@joetipton8681 Good spot! I love them so much! The new ones are good too though 😉

[@Aidllorca]

@@joetipton8681 cheers dude

[@joetipton8681]

@@danielbeall7725 thee best I think. Haven’t tried the new ones, there next on the wish list. Haha brill vid dude ty.

[@Yt-qi9ot]

Damn, didnt notice how nice your haircut was until you stood sidewwys for the stepup. Whos your barber? Lol

[@ioidt]

@15:12 Mario?

[@Kevin-tp4gl]

I think people do not blame wingspan but the fact that for the exact same hold you have to overthink what do to better and compensate that you have a shorter wingspan than other people. therefore making much effort for the same result, which can be kind of boring

[@nbka8rs]

Algogo

[@wisconsinair]

I hope Dan is getting paid

[@HoopersBeta]

Of course, he's part of the team!

[@fredpilk7759]

Sonic?!

[@HoopersBeta]

Haha thank you for guessing! Mario ;)

[@antoniomolina3612]

@@HoopersBeta i knew it was mariooo

[@celinepires6353]

Hi ! Just sayin, it would be great for the recap to have more "to do" and not the mistakes to avoid, i will remember the mistakes now 🤣😅

[@tylerparke1580]

Who tf would name a boulder Trail of Tears?