Testing Phrozen / Siraya Tech resins for cosplay

[@orion7741]

If you maintain a overly heated atmosphere while printing the Siraya Blue, you will get much better results. the room where you are printing needs to be around 90 degrees to get the best possible results with the prints and that will greatly improve its strength. most resins work fine under normal room temps, but the Blue needs to be warmer when printing to get proper adhesion and layer strength.

[@value_exe]

I suggest you try resione Anti-Impact resin. It is also Nylon like but cheaper. I get really great results with it

[@UncleJessy]

Wow fantastic video!

[@Rosin_3d]

Thank you!!!

[@Stiffsce]

great stuff. sunlu has one that says nylon like resin. I got it off Amazon but haven't gotten it yet. For $50 if it's close to the phrozen ...score

[@tadhgd350]

Excited to see more with this nylon, I’m thinking of getting it to make bike parts just gotta make sure it’s worth the cost

[@bonaparte333]

Finally! A great video comparison for tough resin props. Been looking everywhere for something like this, and you totally confirmed what I thought, that nylon green is the strongest! Thank you! Printing time must be terribly long though, right? Did you use the recommended 20 or 30 seconds per layer? What kind of post-curing did you use?

[@TheFizzerKing]

Would love to see that shield print and test video

[@allnicksweretaken]

Nice video. When doing the drop tests you should only let go and not give the part any initial speed by moving hands/arms downwards, as this initial speed will vary from drop to drop. The pieces should also be dropped at the exact same angle every time. Some kind of simple drop rig would help here. Keep up the good work. Subbed to see what else you post. :)

[@orion7741]

meh, all that is very negligable honestly. this type of unscientific testing works just fine since he is replicating a real world situation where somebody at a convention would accidentally drop a piece of their gear. this type of testing would not gain anything by making it overly rigid and scientific....

[@bigfootandbananaman4746]

When's your next video? I'm very interested in using this resin to print gun parts, too.

[@Rosin_3d]

Its been on hold due to not being able to find a location to test out the gun since most Gun ranges do not allow to test printed guns. Right now I'm waiting for a contact to let me use his land for the holidays hopefully I'm able to test the gun out.

[@bigfootandbananaman4746]

@@Rosin_3d ok thanks for the reply

[@RealElonMusk-x1j]

Any articles on safety of the phrozen nylon green for wearing as cosplay? Also how thick did you print the helmets?

[@mikiauto73]

you should have tested the syriq nylon black

[@erickatz4610]

Have you done any updates with the new resins that keep getting released?

[@anthonycruz4435]

Great work

[@Rosin_3d]

Thank you!!!

[@h3h3umm]

Any tips on how to prevent your resin prints from Warping?

[@Mokaframe]

hi did you test the Phrozen Rock-Black, i want to buy it to do drone parts that can hold crash but still not sure

[@Rosin_3d]

Haven't tried their Rock black since their Onyx rigid wasn't as strong

[@robguyatt9602]

I have compared Phrozen Onyx 410 to Phrozen Rock Black. I can't tell any difference between the two in terms of detail and brittleness. Both chip like many resins. But as the Rock Black is much less viscous, this makes it easier to clean saving me time. I print production parts.

[@MGolf-pu7sz]

how did the shield come out?

[@JohnWick-dn6ty]

Interesting on Phrozen Nylon, how about the printing setting?

[@kilgoretrout4461]

I would love to know your printer settings for Phrozen nylon green as well and what was it printed on?

[@toad2039]

What printer do you use for those huge pr8nts

[@Lunatech04]

What printer did you use?

[@elsunshine9976]

Make a video like this one but with fdm printers

[@Rosin_3d]

Sorry I don't own any FDM printers unfortunately

[@elsunshine9976]

@@Rosin_3d why not?

[@madshader]

Good video, thanks for the info! P.S. "tech" is pronounced "tek"

[@jessicarios8732]

Is it possible to combine Aqua-Grey 8k resin with Nylon-Green Tough resin? because what I need is to print my miniatures with a lot of detail (the detail that the Aqua 8k has) but more resistant, not so easily to break, could you help me? I was told about the Amerilabs TGM-7 Gray resin (it is flexible) but apparently it does not have as much detail as the Aqua 8K. Thank you. :) Jessica

[@Rosin_3d]

You should be able to just add about 20% to 30% of the nylon into the Aqua grey. You can do 800ml of grey and 200ml of Nylon to give you 1000ml or 700ml grey with 300ml Nylon depending on the model and it won't lose any details.

[@jessicarios8732]

@@Rosin_3d Thanks! I'm printing at 1:87 scale, I mixed the Aqua 8k with the Siraya Tenaciuos and it didn't work, the legs and arms are breaking, do you think the Aqua 8k with the Nylon will work for me? :)