Texas Traditions: Iconic Cowboy Boot Designs

Lee Miller, the iconic custom bootmaker from Texas Traditions, shows Kirby Allison some of the different cowboy boot styles and design elements he has featured over the years. Lee Miller has a passion for cowboy boots, and constantly finds ways to implement historical designs in his work. His inspirations range from old-school stitchings to the work of his late mentor, Charlie Dunn. We learned a lot during this visit to Lee’s workshop in Austin, and we hope you will as well.
Watch our previous video where Kirby gets fitted for custom cowboy boots: • Cowboy Boot Fitting | ...
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[@DC430]

Is it just me, or is it kind of obvious that Kirby does NOT like cowboy boots?

[@mellowfellow4755]

Yet he showcases them for people's enjoyment and to promote the work of the boot maker

[@masterfeatherpen]

He’s Texan, so he can’t really say he has a complete wardrobe without them. But he’s in love with traditional English shoes. Nothing wrong with that.

[@jeffleblanc8850]

He prob will get the homeliest boots he can get made bespoke cowboy boots ugly it’s his call he will get them made and never wear them I think he should get a high heel and a real pointy toe lol not gonna happen each to ther own

[@cartmanbrah8937]

10:22 was the moment the bootmaker turned around not wanting to have his name on the creation Kirby is coming out with. 😄

[@alchemistoxford]

Question: When will we be able to see your boots?

[@SCRAMBY18]

3 to 5 years depending on how busy he his lol

[@joeblack6384]

@@SCRAMBY18 why’s he so busy? How does it make sense to wait for 4 years for boots? How does it make any sense?

[@cybersamurai6415]

@@joeblack6384 I believe it’s because there are plenty of dedicated Cowboy Boot wearers and well, if they all come at him at once with “I want two”, “three”, “five” whatever number, I’m sure it stacks up. The waiting list must be serious, especially if hand made; which I don’t doubt they are for quality purposes and care for materials used. The acquisition of exotic materials must be a wait too, pertaining to hunting seasons in some cases.

[@kirbyallison]

Let us know which pair of Texas Traditions is your favorite! We have three more segments from Texas Traditions being released over the coming weeks. Make sure to like this video, subscribe to our channel and turn on notifications so you never miss one of our videos. Thanks for watching!

[@michaelfarrug5067]

That handshake at the beginning went on way too long lol

[@richardronk4445]

phuck ewe Dear Mr. Ewe: They are the best of friends off screen and the older man leads when they dance. Any more said would be out of place... which is what I suggest we both do... that is "get out of this place". Cheers!

[@richardronk4445]

phuck ewe Dear Mr. Ewe: They are the best of friends off screen and the older man leads when they dance. Any more said would be out of place... which is what I suggest we both do... that is "get out of this place". Cheers!

[@CoffeeattheBeach]

I cannot watch his channel, the two videos I watched are soooo sooo socially awkward. This craftsman is great though

[@temmink2012]

I officially hate the name Charlie now

[@pitdawg6418]

Broke Back Mountain greeting. Lmfao Hahahaha

[@coreyp12290]

I really like the stitching patterns. Some of the designs were a little too flashy for me, but I still appreciate the skill it takes to make them.

[@kirbyallison]

james Pitt One of the interesting things about cowboy boots is that whenever you think of a cowboy, you think of a pretty conservative individual. But then you look at these absolutely incredible designs, and you really see an individual willing to be pretty fashion forward. The boots I am designing are much more conservative than these iconic designs.

[@Matthew.._]

@@kirbyallison it’s also showing your personality

[@DanielAnchondo]

I have to say I like that elephant boot the most. Even though it's black it has a ruggedness that lends it to casual wear as well.

[@kirbyallison]

Daniel Anchondo Elephant is apparently indestructible! Definitely a good casual or ranch boot!

[@planetmikusha5898]

I've been wearing a pair of elephant skin boots I bought in 2005. The boots still look very good despite having been worn a thousand times or more. The skin is so tough it doesn't scratch.

[@violentinstincts]

Omg that "simple" boot is AMAZING.

[@lindensd6273]

Very gross looking boots. Where the vintage traditional western riding boots at? Disgusting and ugly colour designs/shapes.

[@purushaonezeroeight165]

I did. Really enjoy the Texas traditions video. i did looking forward to the finished boot 👢

[@jaredblanke2168]

“You can’t get any more formal than crocodile or alligator...”

[@culichi0776]

4:47 Lucchese. Great boots!

[@frednovaes5888]

Only $6.000,00 at Boot Star,Los Angeles.

[@jeffleblanc8850]

That’s a beautiful boot the Charlie Dunn eagle wish more boot makers would use the diamond and stars I can’t afford a pair of this guys beatiful boots he will get plain boots he don’t want a pair of cowboy boots to put in his gay closet

[@elizabethgardner5950]

Hi Kirby: I came across this video today, and was so interested in it that I left the housework and sat down and watched the video completely. This was extremely interesting and I'd like to see you do a video for the making of women's cowboy boots. I have left several comments to some of the comments below but wanted to add this comment for you. Cowboy/girl boots when fitted properly feel like a pair of old slippers, they are so comfortable and the opposite is true if not made correctly for you feet.

[@wt460]

Come on Kirby, spring for a pair of boots. You’re in Texas, you need a pair of bespoke boots and you need them now. Quit wetting our whistle and then not going for it. I have numerous pairs of boots in a multitude of skins, but there’s no mistaking a fine pair of alligator, or crocodile boots. You don’t need an upper of the same material because no even sees that portion of the boot. Spend your dollars on a beautiful patter of stitching. Just a thought, but quit waiting - period.

[@Lizestechreviews]

All ya country folk know that boots are an investment. They arnt just a “boot”. We make em last decades. And down here crocodile boots are usually a graduation gift down here. My parents saved up for years to get me croc boots for my high school graduation and I will do the same for my future kids. I personally live on a farm so it’s a tradition in my family. If I see someone wearing croc (crocodile boots) it’s a major statement of being well off. I noticed that these kids will buy $400 Jordan’s or tennis shoes and even though they can’t afford it at all and will be broke after buying them. It’s not like that with boots. People in these parts ONLY buy exotic croc/ ostrich etc. boots if it is well into their budget of affording them. And if you have croc boots and your just a budget farmer then you just look silly. But of coarse it may be different in other areas. I live in a town with a population of 800 people so everybody knows everybody.

[@elizabethgardner5950]

Hi Lizzy: It's nice to see a woman comment on this video site. I too have different cowboy boots, somewhat custom made by myself and a friend doing some tracings that a Canadian Co. Alberta Boots Alberta, Calgary, Canada made for me. I really enjoyed this video to see just how many points of measuring goes into a pair of boots. When finished and on your feet there is nothing like it. I wanted to get a pair of croc boots from Luchasse Boots, but due to country regulations were unable to get from the USA to Canada. So I got a beautiful pair of python snake skin boots from Alberta Canada. The boots look awesome and are great to wear. Go girls who love cowboy or cowgirl boots.

[@joseortegaa2349]

What state you from

[@bullrambler]

I liked that older Pinto Round toe shaped boot, and think it would be a nice change from some of the more contemporary shapes. Also the boot with the slightly squared off toe was nice too.

[@RR-ow7gl]

Beautiful boots ! What's Average cost of these amazing boots ? And there turn around time ?

[@samhouston1288]

www.heritageboot.com/ is their website and they have a lot of their designs listed and priced. $400-$600 seems to be the average for a "plain" set (still absolutely gorgeous). Some more fancy and exotic boots can go for over $1000. I think I read that the turnaround time was a few months (maybe 4?), but don't quote me on that. It probably depends on what you order and how custom it is. Custom stitching and a completely new boot design are obviously going to take longer than having an already established pattern made for you.

[@DraccoKnightblade]

@@samhouston1288 Just re-read a few sites that are quoting him to having a 4 1/2 year waiting list and the boots start at 2000USD for custom boots. 4000+ for Crocodile leather.

[@travishemming3783]

@ Maverick44 That doesn't appear to be the same company at all, and I cannot imagine getting a pair of boots at that level anywhere close to as low as $1,000. DraccoKnightblade's answer seems more in line with what I'd expect.

[@ava9oh1282000]

@@travishemming3783 wrong, basic boot starts at $415, caiman starts arouund $1250 exotic starts around $700 and go to $1500

[@travishemming3783]

@@ava9oh1282000 Those look roughly like the prices for Heritage Boot Co. Again, not the same as Lee Miller/Texas Traditions. With Lee, once you get your initial fitting and and lasts made with the first pair, I've heard you may be able to get subsequent pairs made for as little as $1000 for basic boots, and not as long a wait time, perhaps even less than a year instead of the 3 or 4 years for the first pair. But I've also heard that Lee stays plenty busy, as evidenced by the wait times, and generally hasn't taken new customers in quite some time.

[@monty_wolfkitty]

That golden crocodile boot 😰

[@MrEntouch]

You must do the video after your boots were done and lets see what you went with. exciting

[@kirbyallison]

I just saw Lee this weekend while visiting with Daniel Weigan from Gaziano... need to follow up on timeline and hope to get back to film some additional videos of the making!

[@wbwills2]

I have been researching western boots to hopefully choose a good first pair in over 20 years. The part of the boot that boot maker called the vamp ...another boot maker on a KZbin video said that part of a boot is like the signature of the maker. Maybe that’s what he was taught,not fact. DK .a lot of boot info out there.

[@cesartamayo8301]

Kirbi nice video thamks, but just one observation please don't go to a cowboy store in a formal jacket. In El Paso TX we use leather jackets or wrangler shirts to go to a cowboy store or a boot store. Thanks again!

[@kirbyallison]

Haha. Thanks, Cesar!

[@Antique_engineer_]

I really admired him and followed him on social media until he rather abruptly removed me. Very disappointing since I am an aspiring cowboy boot maker.

[@Anakin-Skywalker.]

You make boots?

[@SagaciousEagle]

The art of the craftsmanship makes the boots more fascinating.

[@leetingler619]

Kirby I have never seen or heard mentioned the end result of you having your Lee Miller boots made. What happened? Photos etc. It's been years now.

[@elfamosonerds416]

Saludos desde guadalajara. Jalisco. México

[@allseeingeye1]

Slightly, uncomfortably long handshake

[@asr50]

I'd love to see how your boots turned out...thanks for the video. Now, I just need to figure out how to get to Austin....

[@snipermerc]

Hey Kirby, did you ever get your boots?

[@josephd2958]

Dear Kirby, Thank you for your videos. I always learn a ton of information from them. It's been a while since I watched this one on cowboy boots but today came across Kangaroo Leather cowboy boots. Don't know if you've heard of them - probably - but they're supposed to be thinner and stronger than cow hide. I was wondering if you've dealt with this material and what you think about it?

[@littledeel]

The wide square toe was made to make a new look in country. A horrible look that changed our youth for the WORSE.

[@romulusremus7537]

I have all toe types. The wide square toe is super comfortable for walking, and great for us bigger guys.

[@fortheloveofbrum3106]

Hi Kirby. Thanks for making this series of videos with Lee Miller especially the full length measuring process. This man is an artist and it’s an education and a joy to watch him at work showing the skill, patience and care he puts into his creations. It’s also wonderful to hear him talk about the people who taught and influenced him, how his approach has developed over time and how he has taught and influenced others and vice versa. Thank you for exposing this man’s artistry to a world wide audience. P.S. I have never had any desire to own or where a pair of Cowboy boots.......but I do now! His boots are real works of art.

[@aarontapley2426]

Hey Kirby, just found your channel and it amazing! I'm from south Georgia I love my cowboy boots/leather products. What is your opinion on a nice cowboy boot for formal wear? Very rarely do I wear a suit mainly slacks and a shirt and tie.

[@kirbyallison]

Thanks! I love the idea of a nice, black cowboy boot for formal wear! Few things as classy, especially here in Texas. But you do have to have your suits cut differently to accommodate the boot leg.

[@aarontapley2426]

Great! Thank you for your help!

[@elizabethgardner5950]

@@kirbyallison That also goes for women's cowboy/girl boots, you need to have the bootcut jeans to fit the boots properly, and it's not an easy task to find them to buy the boot cut style. As the style now for women is mostly straight leg, skinny leg or leggings. You have to go to more of a tack shop to get the jeans style that are bootcut. I will be grad when if at all the boot cut design returns into fashion. The only thing that one can do. at this time. is wear the skinny jeans and have the boot tops wide enough to fit these jeans.

[@elizabethgardner5950]

@@kirbyallison Black snakeskin boots would be amazing for formal wear.

[@frednovaes5888]

3:20 / yellow gator boots looks awesome !!!!

[@xrigtrk]

Boots have to be in your blood if you're going to wear them,I was born to wear them my first pair 1963 I was 9 years old but do to living in New York dad stop buying them so when i was 31 i started back now I'm 65 I only wear boots.

[@Patrick_B687-3]

I've really enjoyed this series Kirby. My Dad had several pairs from Leddy made for himself in the 80s, but I think when I get ready, I'll go see Lee. He gives the strong impression of being top notch in every regard. But man what Leather...that will be a hard one. Anxious to see what you choices you made. Don't make us wait too long. :-)

[@kirbyallison]

Patrick B He’s incredible. The best. But unfortunately I don’t think he is really taking new clients. I’m incredibly fortunate I put my name on his list five years ago!

[@Patrick_B687-3]

Yea, I've heard it used to be three years at best if you can get on, but not so easy as that anymore. Pity.

[@thomasblevins1662]

Sorry....but I’m 66 yrs. old and I’m not about to wait 4 to 5 years for a friggin’ boot. Yeah, they’re nice but c’mon....

[@lusinemichele7721]

Wow I'm impressed by these boots, I kind of dreamed of them, I sort of like the decorations and fancy embodiment.

[@aaron___6014]

I really don't understand why you'd want a smooth sole for any boot, but maybe it makes sense with stirrups.

[@87gsarah]

Very cool boots but all that art seams to be hidden under the pants, so kind of a waste .

[@asepsuhendi5278]

Ingin rasanya memiliki sepatu booth ini, tapi sepertinya tdk mungkin

[@erichagiwara-nagata972]

Did your boots arrive yet?

[@rmartin2763]

So you purchase a pair of custom made boots, later go bankrupt and they come get your boots? 00:53

[@bartschwartz7217]

Love the inlays and the hedi boots never seen inlay since I was little kid in the 60s like med&full round but point toes are good for dress and sitting

[@juliorosas8197]

Wow beautiful Nice like me gustan las votas toda mi vida he usado votas

[@jeffleblanc8850]

Probably this guy don’t even wear the boots he will pick a round boring toe I’m sure he’s as square as they come

[@kirbyallison]

Jeff Leblanc Jeff, what type of boot would an interesting guy like yourself pick?

[@brokenarrow7871]

WOW !!! I just found your videos you do fine work. I’ve been looking for a review of bespoke dress boots from all the youtube fashion guys. I’m so glade that somebody made one, boots are not those silly high top oxfords. All the European and dudes from New York call boots Thanks Kirby

[@haydenfrase2079]

The American eagle or bird looks like a pair of Hank Williams boots

[@FabryRock]

Cool

[@adgodbee3272]

Who is the oldest boot maker; who made the original "cowboy" boot? In what year? Do they go back to the 'original'?

[@sion-dafyddlocke9913]

a d godbee the Texas cowboy boot is derived from the Spanish riding boot in terms of ornamentation. You can still find the taller, tooled leather boots, particularly in South Texas and Mexico, with variations probably coming from the mixing in of Anglo-American tastes in the early 1800s.

[@rightmarker1]

Hope he got at least 50% down on those tacky cactus boots.

[@My-St.Bermudastine-lawn]

I’ve been wearing cowboy boots for the better part of 35 years now lived in Texas my whole life and never heard of this guy. He’s not very iconic.

[@monahumada7535]

Haha damn, straight to the gut

[@ianmedium]

I am really enjoying this series Kirby, thank you! Happy new year to you and your family.

[@kirbyallison]

Thanks! Fun to show a different perspective. The rich tradition of boot making is incredible!

[@pitdawg6418]

PinToe Elephant boots are Best ones

[@DarkPhoenixAtlantis]

Did anyone else notice that his fly was opened

[@joelmartinez9171]

Them blue boots with the eagles 👍🤘🇺🇸very nice

[@fullmetalroyal1216]

Who the hell is Charlie?

[@brunonbierzeniuk1064]

Thank you so much for another part of this incredible journey, Mr. Allison! Since the inception in the comments before, I have to admit that I was waiting for this all week. Mr. Miller is so humble! It is hard to say which boot, really - not my style. Charlie-Dunn-tribute-boot story is touching, though. I would vote for black kangaroo or this plain old style in black elephant that was shown, personally. Medium round toe last shape is the best!

[@kirbyallison]

We were supposed to publish this on Wednesday but needed some pictures of the boots last minute. There are going to be three additional installments in the coming weeks (every Wednesday).

[@ppatpparis]

Any rules to wearing cowboy boots? Square toe vs round toe? Acceptable with Khaki’s? Thanks

[@kirbyallison]

Paris Pat Not really. You can wear them with anything. Would follow similar rules for any footwear.

[@HeartofFlame]

Toe depends on fit preference. I used to wear square toe, but they have become more uncomfortable for me. Now that I’m older I wear mostly D type toes. You can wear them with everything, shorts, sweatpants, dresses, jeans, workout clothes. But if you want to be stylish, definitely look at color and style. 😆 The main rule is to just take care of them. A well loved and cared for boot will last you a long time.

[@markusadanitsch648]

This cactus boots look like clown shoes completly lack of style

[@kreed1004]

it's a classic style in southwestern fashion. it's not for everyone

[@isaiahtrofimenko1739]

Hello Kirby! Thank you for this video. Surprising to see that such artisans still exist in America. This gentleman is a real artist, and yet, he's so modest. Great person! I have a question. All the jackets you wear in your videos (including the one you're wearing in this episode) are impeccable. I especially like the lapel shape and the rather low button stance. This is exactly what I'm looking for! Is it possible for you to let all of us, your followers, know, where you buy such beautiful jackets? Thank you very much!!

[@kirbyallison]

Isaiah Trofimenko Thank you! This is a bespoke jacket by someone who, unfortunately, is no longer in business. I’m currently searching for a new tailor!

[@isaiahtrofimenko1739]

Thank you for the reply! Good luck, finding a new tailor. I guess, I have to look around as well. :)

[@DaInsano]

Yes! Been waiting for more of the Boots!

[@idiridir2746]

thank you it s very good

[@brenmakesthings]

I’m really enjoying following along with these Texas Traditions videos. My question is this: what types of situations call for a cowboy boot rather than a regular shoe, or when would be acceptable to wear them?

[@kirbyallison]

In Texas, there are many people that wear cowboy boots in lieu of dress shoes. Really depends on the boot. They are very versatile footwear. Can be worn casually walking through a ranch field or formally with a tuxedo. In each instance, a different boot, though.

[@thedestroyer9512]

Where re the spur ledges?

[@gilbertmal6033]

How long does it take to make?

[@kirbyallison]

Gilbert Maldonado problem is waiting list... not how long the boots take to make.

[@Chestercamp]

The boots are very cool but in Leon Mexico Guanajuato are more cool more beautiful and confortable

[@steenfuglsangjespersen8620]

Way Pay 5000$ for a pair of boots when you can get someon Who is just as good get less money in china

[@zoukatron]

Definitely show us more of the decision making process as well as the crafting process like before, if possible. This is very interesting. I'm intrigued by how similar some of these designs will be to old school European riding boots.

[@kirbyallison]

We have three more installments! Make sure you are subscribed to receive notifications when we release them!

[@DanielAnchondo]

When will we know what you decided going with?

[@rayhughes967]

I cannot take him seriously. He has no belt. All cowboys wear a belt

[@The_SmorgMan]

Ray Hughes if he was wearing suspenders I would say give a pass...

[@Northdallasguy00]

Who said he was a cowboy? I thought he was a boot maker

[@alexanderheling2057]

Thanks for sharing Kirby, good luck with the boot process! Very exquisite work by some leather artisans!!!! I really enjoy wearing my cowboy boots, I always look for an opportunity to. I just have cowboy boots for more formal wear, but I like to buy a pair of cowboy boots for just working. In the future I hope you share some boot videos with us 🙂

[@kirbyallison]

Alexander Heling The pair I’m having made will be a more formal boot. If I am fortunate to get a second pair, I’d probably go for something more casual also!

[@alexanderheling2057]

The Hanger Project The Hanger Project I have two pair of formal boots. One for more formal wear and one for less. I wore my less formal at a Milwaukee Admirals Hockey game/Brother Osborne concert last night. Mainly because of the conditions outside I didn’t want to get any salt/snow/water stains on my nicer pair. I think what helps make Cowboy boots so great is they are so utilitarian, they can be worn in any environment, function or job setting. I plan on buying a pair of dedicated beater cowboy boots but, I’d like to buy another pair for more formal wear. I love my dress shoes but I have grown very fond of my cowboy👢

[@ruthy8ruthy]

These really are the ugliest boots I have ever seen. They look cartoonish