The BEST Battery Powered AIR CONDITIONER For Van Life?

[@mytina6516]

Purchased: August 2022 - still works GREAT! kzbin.infoUgkxxsUnXhGsSJLim_XnMHyQK0u3XVaW-CGn I live in a studio and during the summer it gets scorching hot - really old building with no ac units. I can’t express how EASY it was to install.This unit has been a life savior during the summer and some days during other seasons where it can still be a bit warm at night. In this small place is my friend, a husky, poodle mix and myself. We need AC - lolI don’t use the dehumidifier option - I’m not sure if it will leak in my house, since I did not install the small draining hose that came with it. May look into it late but I don’t worry about much humidity in the apartment.I don’t understand why the negative reviews since all things mentioned, I personally did not find issues with. Definitely worth it!

[@coastalcop]

You May want to think about insulating the ducting as the humidity differential can cause condensation and dripping , love both builds so far, great job sticking with it ( former NIST guy here)

[@reddbeard2030]

The "Mad Scientist" of Vanlife. I saw a vid about this AC install and they also added a small metal deflector for to help with road debris. Might want to consider it since off roading in the zombie apocalypse will, no doubt, have random debris and body parts on & off road, lol. 👍🏼

[@johnbrizendine4425]

Split units are obscenely efficient compared to packaged units. I built a custom tow-behind BBQ competition trailer for a buddy and I custom built a split heat pump for it so he can use it as a camper/trailer when not doing BBQ competitions in it. I set it up so that even with everything running full-blast it only pulls 15 amps at 120 volts, so he can run it on a super small generator, or any camp site power outlet or even solar power. The trailer is insulated pretty well and has a 12,000 BTU split heat pump system and a hidden drain hose that drains directly to the ground. I am also an HVAC technician, EEE, and Network Engineer so I was able to install and build the whole thing myself with assistance from my buddy. I am super proud of how it turned out, and he absolutely loves it. He was able to run his trailer at a super small camp ground in south east Kansas that only had 15 amp 120 volt outlets. The system is not a 12 volt system, but it is an inverter compressor system so it can even run on a modified sign wave power inverter or really poor quality 120 volt power source. (inverter compressor system takes 120 volts and converts it to about 90 volts dc then to 3 phase power to the compressor motor, similar to the way electric skate-boards or electric scooters power the motor from lithium battery packs) It is really easy to convert an inverter compressor heat pump to 12 or 24 volts just by modifying the power converter part of the control board to skip the a/c to d/c conversion and put d/c from the batteries directly to the motor controller part of the heat pump controller board.

[@LaneLarson]

I know this is an old comment, but that build sounds awesome! I'd watch a walkthrough video of it if you published one!

[@johnbrizendine4425]

@@LaneLarson Yeah, I wish I would have taken video of it. It was a lot of work, but it was a lot of fun. The most difficult part of it was mounting the outside part of the mini-split unit to the trailer. The trailer was too tall to put it on the roof, so I had to build a custom mount for it, but with it just hanging off the front of the trailer, I had to build a cage around the mount. I was on a time crunch so I wasn't able to make that part of it look pretty, which is unfortunate. I think the total cost to convert it to be able to camp in at the BBQ competitions was about $800. He uses it for regular camping as well and apparently the mini split unit I put in is so efficient that he was able to run the whole thing off a 15amp outlet at a remote camp site with an extension cord.

[@LaneLarson]

@@johnbrizendine4425 That's legit! I'm planning on putting a mini split in our camper soon. Pretty excited to have decent AC here in the South.

[@johnbrizendine4425]

@@LaneLarson Make certain you install a breaker box and wire everything with stranded THHN wire if you are going to add any electrical outlets or anything like that, DO NOT use ROMEX, as it will get weak points in it from vibrations and end up starting a fire. Also, if you do use a breaker box, do not bond the neutral and ground in the box, as it will cause a lot of problems. When I created the mount for the mini split, I had to put up 1x2 wood strips and plywood/OSB for the bolts to mount to through the skin of the trailer. Make sure you get a decent cage built around the outdoor part of the mini split unit, or it will get stolen when you aren't paying attention. The craziest part of it all was that I used a cheap harbor freight 125 flux core wire welder to put it all together. It was just barely big enough to do it.

[@johnbrizendine4425]

@@LaneLarson One other thing, make certain that it's an INVERTER HEAT PUMP, for best results, as that will be able to run on a 12volt or 24 volt power inverter, and the inverter heat pumps automatically start up with minimum current draw and slowly ramp up so that there is not a startup current draw, and any 120/220 volt power source that is rated at the same power output the heat pump requires will run it. A good 9,000BTU inverter heat pump will pull less than 1,000 watts when not on "full blast".

[@nixhixx]

People in the comments act like this product has never been tested at all for an undermount. It looks good to me, you made your informed choice. It looks good to me! Get those front window covers quick!

[@nathanchildress5596]

Yes... but if it were me I'd put it on the drivers side - away from the hot exhaust.

[@nixhixx]

@@nathanchildress5596 Fair enough, if there's room there.

[@CruiseNComfortUSA]

You are correct, the condenser I use is made for heavy equipment and is very durable. The fans I use are IP68 rated and can be submerged. We also use the same fan motor on our blowers and has been proven in our off shore race teams. They do submerge the MES systems often (same build materials as the HD ) and the fans /blower motors are never affected. Over the last 11 years we have supplied 3 replacement condensers. These replacements actually were mounted on logging trucks up high and took hits from trees. 🤷

[@Amsoniac]

Can’t stress enough how good your videos have gotten. You and dual ex have inspired me to make my first van build. It’s coming along great! Keep up the good content

[@seven_o_savage]

Appreciate it! Will do 🤙

[@nathanchildress5596]

I agree with people saying you should do some heat shielding between the exhaust and the condenser, like a divider with some gold heat shield tape. Also you can line the cabinet with some heavy vinyl to deaden the noise of the fan. Keep em coming though, Savage, love the build!

[@Max34557]

This is the definition of properly in my eyes. A HUGE ass battery bank + proper A/C setup, nicely done! I often see these super pretty fan builds, but they lack an A/C.

[@OffTheClockNow]

Nice to see some people can afford these high ticket items. Van life is cost conscious for a reason; this shows it doesn't have to be.

[@blobinski9160]

One thing I might recommend is soft mounting the noise generating AC components on the shelf. Using rubber, silicone or another soft material can help decouple the noisy parts from the shelf and quiet it further.

[@cferdinandi]

Thank you for getting right to it! So many of these van AC videos are loaded with filler or skip the install details entirely.

[@rowdysgirlalways]

The thought an engineering you put into each element is amazing!

[@Handleyman]

Your exhaust pipe is going to get pretty hot while you’re driving. Radiant heat from the exhaust may melt the cowling around the fans. I suggest you install a stainless steel divider vertically between the exhaust and the fans to stop that from happening.

[@marymarmande8446]

❤️ awesome 😎 thanks for sharing!!

[@Andrew-sv3ck]

Agreed, going to mess with the output of the AC too.

[@jdfixit1]

an aluminum exhaust heat shield would disperse heat better stainless steel will hold heat

[@HumblyServingGod]

You could also run a copper coil around it with circulating water inside, portable hot water heater.

[@karenlivingston8416]

Outstanding. Do you do this for hire for others!?

[@CED.Dweller]

Nice overview of the installation process. This is the first video that the KZbin algorithm pushed my way since your 80/20 rack framework setup video. Yeesh!

[@morrowr08]

Great video. I didn’t even know that model you got was an option. I got their 24v system in my van. Chris is awesome. His shop is 5 minutes drive from my house in Arizona. Talking to him about his systems, history behind them, and how they function, absolutely amazing. Well worth the price.

[@MannyWC]

I'm in AZ at the moment. Do they do installs? or do you know someone in AZ that does? I looked at their dealer list, but they seem to do only new builds.

[@morrowr08]

@@MannyWC I'm not entirely sure, it's been two years since I finished building my van, not sure what things may have change at Cruise n' Comfort. I do remember talking to owner, Chris, that they were going to start doing the installs at their warehouse. It's really not that difficult to install yourself though, once installed take to HVAC person to charge it, or maybe you can take your van to them and they can charge it.

[@MannyWC]

@@morrowr08 okeh~ I reached out to CC- see what they have to say:)

[@joehoffman7019]

Love your style of filming and explaining. Incredible battery bank, AC, and toilet. I look forward to the rest and you actually using the van.

[@kennethalmond8922]

Me - I'm a mini-split fan. You get cool + heat and can do simple vacuum yourself with ones that are pre-charged. I understand its a challenge to mount the outside unit... (maybe on a door on the back) but efficiency + silent operation are very strong pros for me. I have a Senville 9000 BTU on my 7 x 14 cargo trailer conversion w/1" insulation all around - takes about 4-5kwh / 24hrs to keep trailer cool at 100-105F outside and warm down to 25-30F outside - and then less power if the temps are inbetwenn those extremes. .

[@hijodetupa]

How much power is 4-5kw ? How many batteries per day ?

[@kennethalmond8922]

@@hijodetupa 500ah @ 12v = 6kwh at 100% discharge.

[@GregBurghart]

I installed a Cruise N Comfort HD-12L system in my Sprinter last October and have been very happy with it... especially with the temp hitting 106 degrees in parts of N. Cali last weekend! With 1,120 watts of motorized tilting solar, I can run the A/C on max throughout the daylight hours and not touch any of the 600Ah of lithium in reserve until nighttime (rarely needed at night in the SF Bay area). I didn't have any previous HVAC experience, but just bought a cheap set of guages on Amazon and added the freon myself. Pretty easy, actually.

[@scottslotterbeck3796]

Don't you have to vacuum test the system? And it's not freon anymore.

[@GregBurghart]

@@scottslotterbeck3796 These units use R134a refrigerant (which I called "freon" out of habit). All of the specs are listed in the CNC manual and the refrigerant is readily available on Amazon. The guages come with a small electric vacuum pump that you use to pull a vacuum, then close the valves for 30-45 minutes and watch to see if the unit holds the vacuum (no hose leaks) before adding the refrigerant. Takes about an hour total and isn't really that hard to do after watching a couple of YT videos.

[@CruiseNComfortUSA]

I have put up a video one of our customers did on how to charge the system yourself. It is under the manuals and videos tab. I am also available for a video call if someone needs help with this process.Thanks for your purchase I really appreciate it!

[@the_cometman]

Hey bud! Love the videos! I have the HD-12L installed in our sprinter and I quickly found out that in humid environments the evaporator will sweat A LOT. So much that it will actually leak into the van and weep through the drain holes. Chris (who is an awesome dude!) also sells a stainless steel tray that you can mount the evaporator on.

[@CruiseNComfortUSA]

Thanks Clayton, yes I do have a stainless tray that has drain holes in all 4 corners. It is made from .060 stainless and Tig welded.

[@constitutionalcheckpoint]

I can barely spell pHd but, I feel like I'm getting one. Thank you SEVENO

[@evguenistrok1695]

As a professional refrigeration technician I will strongly recommend to stay away from this setup. The original purpose of this particular unit was to cool down a cab of a tractor. The condenser should be mounted on the back wall of the cab. By mounting the condenser on the bottom you creating the harsh environment for the condenser. If your condenser is dirty - your liquid freon is not really liquid, it becomes a saturated mixture. It means you loosing a cool capacity and you creating a high pressure which eventually will damage your compressor. Another important point is the winter. If you will drive to any place where road salt is used it will destroy your condenser and condenser fan motor just in one season. Not even talking about the fact that condenser requires a vertical installation for the condensed liquid easily getting to the bottom. I can give you 5 more reasons why this is a bad idea, but I think I've said enough. DON'T DO THIS, UNLESS YOU GOING TO DO HIGHWAYS ONLY IN SUNNY CALIFORNIA.

[@scottslotterbeck3796]

Let me think...will you be running your A/C in the snow? Hmmm. I don't think so. Seems pretty easy to fashion a cover for the condenser unit, no?

[@TheLobo91]

Passenger buses have their condenser under them so it's pretty standard. I think you are right but on a van your options are limited.

[@CruiseNComfortUSA]

Our fans and condensers are automotive grade. I think I have sent out 3 replacements in the last 10 years. They hold up really well.

[@evguenistrok1695]

I do public busses in Canada and some business do have condensers on the bottom as you mentioned, and we do replace those condensers all the time for the reasons I've mentioned above. The trend on installing the condenser on the bottom of the RV is very recent. Let see your numbers in few years.

[@johntemp1692]

@@CruiseNComfortUSA would it be good to mount in a more vertical location on the back of the van?

[@HumblyServingGod]

I’ve got a zendure super base pro with a 5000 BTU window shaker. It could cool the van in no time, but would be heavy and bulky. Comfort is king!

[@1FAST91SONOMA]

those machines are so insanely easy to use. I figured it out within 5 minutes on my first try. I became the go-to guy for ac in my shop. Your system is no different than a normal car ac, those shops were just worried about liability. Even the receptionists at those shops should have no problem doing that task. The shop just wont allow that.

[@bjbhehir]

After watching this video I'm glad I bought a Dometic unit that mounts on the roof for about $600 and took about 2 hours to install (13,500 BTU) The other day it was 100 degrees out and my friend said could you please turn off the A/C I'm freezing!! That definitely takes up a lot of real estate inside the van!! Good luck with your unit and I hope it treats you well over the years!! Hope to see you around Tahoe!!

[@robertgregory2618]

Are you sure that's what she said? Those roof mounts are so noisy...

[@bjbhehir]

@@robertgregory2618 mine isn't that noisy

[@LonnieWormley]

I just wanted to let you know that I'm inspired by all your videos. I have a 2017 Transit van 350HD duly high top extended. I am following your 8020 frame install and a lot of other things that I've learned after watching your videos for the past year. Thanks for all your hard work

[@seven_o_savage]

Thank you Lonnie! 🤙

[@PeterCollins60]

alright , more super perfectionism . awesome as usual Sevin .

[@jameslamb7300]

Cool van build! When you have your Solar Panels set up I have a suggstion. The AC System may be more efficient if you set it and forget it. Thermal Dynamics. Set the AC Thermostat where you will be comfortable and leave it running 24/7. The Walls, Floor and Ceiling, along with everything else in the van, will help maintain the temperature and make the system become very effective and efficient.

[@loayabu-husein8864]

Are you planning to do a stress test, to see how long you can really run the AC on a full Battery?

[@Grindstaff09]

Hi great video...would love an update as to how it worked over time

[@bencuraza6503]

Lately, different YT Channels across the USA bcuz it’s Summer their Pros Cons. By far yours overall checks all the boxes. Great Job‼️ 👍👍⬆️

[@rickmaudlin2160]

In Sprinter ambulances they mount the fans on the driver's side. It helps keep passenger-side quieter on the outside, which is where you would typically have your camp set up.

[@jamesmaccubbin7434]

Thanks for this video! There are folks who have taken these undermonts off road on year-long trips to Central America without issue, so I'm not in the camp that you have to keep this on road. I love the idea of saving space on the roof. Van building is all about deciding what is most important to you and where you want to spend your money. For some it's the kitchen, for some it's power, for some it's a really nice bathroom.or a music system. For me it's keeping the van cool for my Bernese Mountain Dog puppy. So being able to run from a battery system is key. Keep up the good work!

[@jtheiny]

Not just sun shades in the front cab area but a curtain behind driver/passenger seats will help with cooling.

[@chriszbodula1894]

Invest in medical grade window tinting for your front glass. You can even legally apply to the front windshield because it’s barley noticeable. It’s quite extraordinary how well it works

[@JacobMcClain]

"Not a hotdog but a hot dog" 🤣

[@noodles.dumplings.kimchi2878]

Yay! Cruise en comfort is a fab choice!

[@MaximC]

9:48 I don't know if this AC is very different from normal house ACs (I imagine not), but normal house ACs - you just use an electric pump to check for leaks, basically create vacuum, you let it for about 15 minutes (or more) and if the arrow on the gauge didn't move in those 15 minutes - you're good to charge the system with gas. Normal house ACs already have the gas in them, you just check for leaks and if all is fine you just open the gas valves on the AC. The problem is when the AC doesn't have gas from factory or say the gas leaked - in that case, here in Italy at least, you can't buy and/or use this gas - only licensed AC installers can work with it (most just won't sell it to you, because they are required by law to first obtain that certificate from you and only after that sell it to you).

[@user-yd1vl9lj5j]

Painting your roof white would help immensely.

[@Sailorjeffy101]

Ceramic window tint would make a huge difference for the heat coming through the windows 🤙🏻

[@six2da3rd74]

they also have clear window/windshield heat rejection film.

[@mattkeysme]

@@six2da3rd74 I did ceramic tint in my sprinter, including the clear on the front windshield and it does make a huge difference.

[@Andrew-sv3ck]

Great video! I live in NC and am doing my research on a very liveable van, and if I want to use it during the summer AC is a must, at least to sleep at night.

[@vita-girl4345]

Nice video as usual. I bought this one also. Note to the readers, this is not cheap, but the quality is good!

[@seven_o_savage]

Nice! Did you get the VES or HD unit?

[@vita-girl4345]

@@seven_o_savage I got the HD-12L unit. So far so good. Jiffy Lube did my evacuation and charge. They just wanted to know if I wanted 134a and how much. The other places all got cold feet.

[@seven_o_savage]

@@vita-girl4345 Nice! HD is the way to go if you have the space

[@CruiseNComfortUSA]

@@vita-girl4345 sometimes auto repair facilities over think what needs to be done. It basically needs to be vacuumed down and charged with R134a . Home HVAC technicians are usually the best bet. I also am working on having a pre charged system option.

[@vita-girl4345]

@@CruiseNComfortUSA precharged would be preferred. Finding a place to evacuate and charge was the most stressful part of installation.

[@rickeydenler2385]

Some of that amazing new window tent would make it alot cooler

[@GrotrianSeiler]

Very interesting and enlightening video, no question. Glad you made the point about enclosing the shelf unit which will quiet things down. Good luck with your project.

[@tammietimmion6994]

I have been waiting for this video! So COOL! Great video! Thank you!!!

[@tonynguyen3006]

Not sure if you have an air fryer at home but it's wonderful. You should build in that since you have the battery.

[@lkazanov]

Wonderful channel and videos. I love that you use absolutely the best components available. Keep up the good work!

[@seven_o_savage]

I love that you love that I use the best stuff :)

[@karenlivingston8416]

Amazing!! Thank you for this amazing instructional video

[@jameskirby5386]

Wow, system looks great. Love the van so far

[@vickiemitchell9042]

There is a window tint that is clear for your windshield and door windows that will block out the heat. Check on the internet you'll see the film I'm speaking of it will make driving or being in the front of your van tolerable summer or winter.

[@mike123abc]

You should line the evaporator box and the compressor box with thinsulate to help muffle the noise. It will be really interesting to see DBA measurements when they are enclosed. But, I suppose white noise of the AC would help drown out street noise. Also noise levels of the under mount condenser in series and parallel. Perhaps double wire it to a switch to select between series and parallel as needed.

[@515capncrunch]

Nicely done. Watched many of your vids and did not realize you were so close to me (Cloverdale!). Would love to see your build first hand and maybe get more local resource info. Just beginning build on 2018 Transit 350 high roof ext. dually. Similar purchase experience as we flew from Santa Rosa to SoCal to pick up in Fontana. Love how your build is coming together.

[@mattkeysme]

I charged my Cruise N' Comfort a couple weekends ago DIY style. I got the vacuum pump + manifold gauges I needed from Harbor Freight for about $180. Another $10 adapter from AutoZone to connect the 12oz 134a cans to the manifold gauges. I have the 12v HD unit

[@seven_o_savage]

Dang, smart! How’s it working so far?

[@mattkeysme]

@@seven_o_savage Haven't used it too much yet. I got it all installed and working just in time for Fall weather :). Currently waiting on a new WiFi thermostat that should also work with our espar diesel heater.

[@kurtisfoley2314]

Just wanted to add I am fan of your videos and love your explanations and tips. Unlike others you speak my language. I am a Linux Engineer that worked commercial construction in the past so I am very handy. I had a few questions though. So it draws 700+ watts? Is that max? Does it ever idle down? What bothers me about cruise in comfort is there is no seer rating and judging by your consumption it looks to be around 10-12 if it had one which is pretty good for a window A/c unit that costs 300-400$. I have not had the pleasure to test with a invertor or batteries but I have 33 seer rated Minisplit in my garage that only maxes at 300Watts and idles down to 240 and lower in South Texas. I'd like to add it ramps up so there are no surges. So how much does your invertor draw? I've been reading its around 10-15% of the overall load but I am not sure it works like that. Basically what I am trying to figure out is does my 110v 33seer mini split on a invertor use less power than a CnC a/c? Also trying to figure out if you lose even more power converting to 220V as these are the most efficient a/c's currently. There is a 220v 42seer rated mini split i'd love to test! $4000 a/c VS $1300 A/c with more solar more batteries and a better invertor.

[@michaelscarfi3196]

I think your right and I would have done exactly that but you look like a bit of a rube

[@michaelscarfi3196]

With a big condenser like that on the back door and how do you deal with opening the door? It’s all a headache.

[@michaelscarfi3196]

Sorry it wasn’t meant that way I pushed the send button mid paragraph and it came out wrong

[@kurtisfoley2314]

I could care less I just want my questions answered. 😕

[@michaelscarfi3196]

You really answered your own question. It is about 15 percent loss which is still way less than the difference between the two even with going to 220. What makes you think you can Mount it horizontally underneath though?

[@alexsmelly2263]

Great video. Although cruise in comfort seems to be a great company and I appreciate them providing options for vanlife, I cant afford to pay more for my ac system than i payed for my van.

[@bigcarptackle]

I have the same batteries (1020AH)and run and inverter with a mini split. Works great and will freeze you out. 🥶. Mine cost less than $800. Downside it does take up more room and the back has to be vented or door opened.

[@gibbiv]

You're a legend. Thanks for making these videos. I'm learning a lot during my build.

[@carlo1132]

Recpro Houghton, best AC for Vanlife. Its what people upgrade to from Colemans, its what is on my 144" Sprinter 4x4 now, cost less than 1200 bucks. It is what Advanced RV uses, and that's all you need to know!

[@YT-MY]

I would charge the system myself. Equipment to evacuate and charge can be borrowed from Autozone or O'Reilly. Just need to know amount of oil and R134 to add. Wonder is if it could be worked out a means to mount in front of engine cooling, just like vehicle coolers are typically stacked together, air conditioning, transmission, oil, coolant. Since this system would not running while driving. Would need to use the vehicle fans in place of provided fans.

[@robwickham8530]

Don't add oil to this product, it comes pre-oiled.

[@scottslotterbeck3796]

Great idea! Did not know that! Mounting in alternate place complicates hoses and wiring. Something to think about, though.

[@CruiseNComfortUSA]

The unit already has PVE oil inside. Most customers go to Harbor Freight and spend $150 on gauges and hoses and do charge them on their own. Not sure about Canada but it is legal where in the states. Pre charged systems are on the horizon 👍🏻

[@johngrant1337]

You do want to install a heat shield next to the exhaust from the engine. If you need to have the unit recharge (only if you have leak in refrigeration system) found a refrigeration company. The system look great

[@AJ-kv7zr]

I'd love to hear a follow review of cruise n comfort. Many say they are undersized for large van and runs constantly. UndermountAC is selling one that is much more powerful that is likely truly the BEST.

[@seven_o_savage]

For sure, I agree that the undermount ac one looks very interesting!

[@jasonthomashorn4794]

I highly recommend a expanded steel skidplate to protect against rock kick-up. Especially needed when driving washboard dirt roads when it kicks up tiny rocks at high speed.

[@lightdark00]

I sure wish it was that hot now in Texas. It's getting too cold.

[@SamanthaBManthaJane]

As usual, such great information! I forget to comment sometimes, but I know that it helps the YT algorithm when I do, so here is your comment, sir! Thanks for all of the wonderfully informative and entertaining videos. = ) PS: You, Ourkaravan, Humble Road and Scott Andersen (Comes with a view); four of the best DIY van build channels out there! I recommend all of you gents!

[@seven_o_savage]

Thanks Samantha, really appreciate it! 🤙

[@rhiantaylor3446]

I agree that a roof-mounted A/C is undesirable so was interested in the unit you fitted. The data I was looking for was absent so I went to the manufacturer site but their "Specs" page for the unit in question was also sparse to say the least. In a van and especially if powered with PV & batteries I need to know the BTU (of course) but also the startup and running load that I have to supply.

[@DoRC]

If a roof mounted AC is installed properly it's not going to drip condensate on your head. The only reason you would get condensate dripping inside is if the seal around the air conditioner is compromised or if You're parked in such a way that the air conditioner is tipped really far forward

[@rveurope]

Cool Install, you can mount a cover ( U shape)Backside of your el step.. once your step is in its covered when driving down the road and use cab air con

[@peterher8179]

This is AMAZING! Thank you for the tips!

[@hijodetupa]

Hows that Van is always so clean and shinny :D ! loved the video

[@sterby71]

Dude, such a great video and well explained!

[@scottslotterbeck3796]

Awesome video. I'd like this in my van build.

[@DavetheUberSlave]

You could charge the air conditioner yourself with a $100 vacuum pump and $40 gauges and hoses from harbor freight. Walmart has the lowest price on refrigerant.

[@MrRShoaf]

Rent an AC pump from auto parts store.

[@DavetheUberSlave]

@@MrRShoaf that's awesome

[@CruiseNComfortUSA]

Absolutely and we can video conference when you are ready to do this.

[@DavetheUberSlave]

@@CruiseNComfortUSA Better late than never

[@slargo83]

Cool setup man. Definitely subscribed 🙂

[@DanielDinsmore-i3l]

Very conserned about the under vehicle unit for damage and dirt

[@seven_o_savage]

No problems so far still running good as new 👌

[@DavetheUberSlave]

In hot places the AC really comes into play at night

[@DevilTravels]

Complicated install, but more flexible. But, the air intake should be farther from the vents on the evaporator.

[@HomemadeAC]

Excellent video amen. I enjoyed this very much. You touched on everything perfectly from technical details to personal use experience and observation as well. Very nice job! Thanks for sharing, James

[@seven_o_savage]

Thank you!

[@joester1262]

I thought my AC for my 6000 sqf house was expensive...i stand corrected!

[@birdlady2725]

Can you put a shield over the part under the van? Maybe a mechanical flu like contraption that can open when not driving? Either have a switch or a handle to open/shut. Seems like a vulnerable spot for an expensive part. A white or light color for the van itself would help. Reflectix in the front windows for sure (one side reflectix, the other side black for winter to absorb heat? ). Cant wait to see how it all goes together. *Any protection for battery bank if any fluids leak?

[@TheBeardedDog]

I have thought about a similar setup. I would likely buy a window AC though. Seems like it would be cheaper to have an AC tech draw down the system for you. Then take the unit apart, run new lines, electrical and fans. Then have the AC tech come back to draw a vacuum and/or nitrogen test the system, then charge it. You would likely have the same power consumption or better for a similar system and it would be maybe $1500 for parts and the labor of the AC tech. The downside of this approach is it would require a little bit of re-engineering of the system. Window units just have one fan motor, so that would need to be split. Also you would need an AC tech that was willing to do this. As Seven O Savage found out, that might be a bit tricky. So knowing a guy would be very helpful.

[@skistrycharski6999]

Where does the residual heat go from the compressor ?

[@jim.h]

Inside the van, so that it has to work to cool it. Seem like it would be much more efficient to design a system with the compressor on the outside.

[@dominik8040]

Great work, are you able to send some more photos of compressor unit?

[@briancclevenger]

How are you going to protect stones and other items from damaging the unit underneath? Also when you close the cabinet in how are you going to keep the compressor cool? It will get warm. Nice job on these video's by the way, I'm learning lots and when I win the lottery, I'll be doing my van build much the same.

[@billybrand]

I don't know how this installation would be good when traveling on gravel or sandy roads and in winter when the roads are slushy. I wonder if it can be mounted on the side?

[@chikatoo]

Great white noise for sleeping

[@TheChrisjones8080]

I am looking at Nissans NV3500 to convert to a semi van camper. Some are calling it a limo conversion. I want comfortable seating and a toilet/shower.

[@theoteam4641]

thats great, am glad you finally released the video for the aircon system. did you consider mini split ac unit? it could cool the van down and is way quieter and uses about half and much power to run also. thats what ill be running in the nexdt van

[@michaelscarfi3196]

Where are you planning to mount the condenser? That’s the only reason I didn’t do it.

[@theoteam4641]

@@michaelscarfi3196 well if you have seen our tilting solar on the roof box, in the next build I’ll make the roof box slightly higher than the condenser hight and the put the condenser under the roof box with one max fan where the cooker would be and then use the rest of the space for storage like we are doing now. So from the outside it would look like it hasn’t got anything but a box and solar panel but on the inside we can enjoy the cool air or heater with the mini split plus I’ll be going completely electric and have about 6-10 Tesla batteries so we can run everything for days without any charging 😊

[@michaelscarfi3196]

Standing up? I was afraid of the height and I’ve see someone lay it down but I can’t believe that works.

[@theoteam4641]

@@michaelscarfi3196 yup standing up. My current roof box is 32CM high. Am not sure how high the condenser is but I think you can get some that are about 50cm or less high so building a roof box that high won’t be too bad plus you get the added bonus of your solar panels tilting plus when it rains you don’t hear it on the roof 😊. Another tip if you build one is to put fans under there to move the air around because it gets hot from the sun lol

[@isaiahbangura4421]

@@michaelscarfi3196 You can mount it in top, on the back bumper, I saw someone mount it inside and open the back door to use it. Dividing wall between bedroom and garage.

[@imperfectadventure]

This was very helpful. I know I'll need a/c in Az. I think the roof top will be my pick based on ease of install. I'll loose the roof space, but maybe have some extra outside panels if needed. Thanks for showing us what goes into this install.

[@jeffreyumeh8580]

Like if I am gonna buy a heat pump I want it to do cooling and heating, like the cooling is just going to be what you are using most of the time, because when it's cold it's also likely to be cloudy so running it off the solar isn't an option, where as when it's quite hot it's pretty much going to be sunny, but if I have some spare electisity when it's cold it would be nice to have heating, for example my work doesn't mind me charging up my protable power station there and with 2kWh of capacity assuming a COP of 4 you should get 8kW of heating, which is enough to heat up a van from freezing cold to comfortable.

[@markparent7999]

I know this isn't an option for all van life people, but it does have wheels. Just drive somewhere cooler (high elevation/near a lake or ocean) until summer lets up.

[@InspiredByBrad]

Awesome! I recommend looking into 3M Crystalline heat rejecting window film for the front cab windows. Apparently it's crystal clear and comes in 90% clear, which shouldn't look tinted or cause problems. I'm eager to get it installed in my Sprinter because my AC is fighting a hopeless battle with all the heat coming in!

[@functionalvanconversion4284]

Thanks for the awesome demo! When will your kit be listed for sale on cruise and comfort website.

[@alec4672]

I wonder if turning the vans ac real fast just to knock down the temperature fast would be worth it?

[@CR-wk2re]

I don't think the van's ac would be strong enough to cool the whole van. It only blows from the front and is only meant to cool the cockpit area.

[@flexibleitinerary4704]

Maybe I missed it in the video, but what’s the advantage of this over a rooftop 12v unit? This takes up more interior space, and is more complicated to install.

[@eridink]

He said that he didn't like that the condensation from the rooftop unit might drip inside the van and also that it takes up rooftop real estate that he wants to use for solar panels.

[@CR-wk2re]

From watching reviews, the rooftop ones seem to suck. They are also not stealth.

[@mperdue12]

That condenser has 6 months before road debris takes out a fan ($300.00 Plus recharging the system). Been there done that. Stick it in the tire well and put a grate over it.

[@Salsadepr40]

Hi Seven, awesome videos, like your van convertion. I have to say that the price of the AC is absolutely not worth it in my opinion. But for cunsumers that does have the money, is like throing there mony away. But when it come to You, youre Van look awesome and all your videos are very educational. Thank you Bro.

[@jimmyryder2726]

This is something I was toying in my mind with, right now I have a Dometic Penguin 2 A/C mounted on top but due to height clearance I am considering to take it off, put a MaxXVent instead and go with the below deck A/C I've got a High-Top Sprinter so top clearance IS a problem when running into an underpass that's only 9 feet tall. Note: As I was saying I've thought about replacing the Dometic with a Semi-Truck A/C unit (the one you see behind the Semi cabine)

[@hijodetupa]

Where can I custom my Van with some of this things in the GTA ?

[@johnsundell2912]

You need to vacuum out the drain lines out every so often so run each line outside separate or one side will always stay clogged

[@danemmerich6775]

Isn’t there cheaper DC options?! Did you consider the DC mini splits. With the heat as well.

[@PatrikNilson]

hi, very interesting! I got an idea or thought. why not let the condensate pass through a filter and fill your water tank? there will be quite large amounts of condensed water.

[@markbajek2541]

There are probably some heavy metals in that water , just like what comes from a dehumidifier.. You'd have to filter that water big time.

[@Tom-yr3pt]

This is really nice compared to roof AC but respectfully, compared to a house mini split its not that competitive, don't get me wrong it can be perfect for some people and their specific needs like you OP that has lots of batteries. But for me I think the price of 5000$ is just too much, adding on top of that the connections, pre-charge trouble and multiple components/unit making this not necessarily smaller than a mini-split unit breaks the deal. For less than 1500$ I could see it being competitive but I think a mini-split like the brand forestair 9000btu costing 600$ that consumes 550w average, could easily be offset by adding more solar. With my current 550ah lithium I could run this for 10 hours + my 550W of solar current that I plan on doubling would make this work pretty much 24/7 on solar for in total approximately 4000$ cheaper. Maybe I'm missing something. Keep up the good work OP I do enjoy your content.

[@CruiseNComfortUSA]

Tom , check out my VES Classic system. It has a few less features but may be a solution. It is $3,395 and is on our online store.