The BEST CUSTOM Keyboard for $95? NK65 EE in its ULTIMATE form! I made it into a TRUE Top Mount!

[@HipyoTech]

Holy moly I didn't realize my netflix came with this

[@Keybored]

Hi Hipyo! Thanks for stopping by to check this out! Hope it was entertaining as I tore up my NK65! I appreciate the support as always!

[@HaiNguyen408]

4:15 stock 8:52 plate foam + top plate burger 12:44 Stand- off O-ring mod 19:52 Go crazy 21:00 me realizing Keybored already did a side by side and i been skipping around the video for timestamps for no reason

[@Keybored]

Hi Hai! Thank you so much for watching! Hope it was helpful!

[@resellpanda88]

Stage 2. No hard mods needed and sounds good enough for "entry" level

[@Keybored]

Hi Danny! I was pretty torn between stg 2 and stg 3 as well!

[@duboi-]

Same. Gonna do this soon!

[@harvdaguy]

I prefer the thockiness in the sound of stage 2

[@Jonas_Fox]

Never in my life did I anticipate taking notes while intensely watching a custom mechanical keyboard modification video to nursery rhyme-trap music songz(13m30s). Such is life. Thank you for all the great work.

[@Keybored]

Thank you so much for watching J.A! I hope the content is useful! :)

[@BuzzLiteBeer]

Honestly, I liked the thocky-ness of the stock version best. If you're a fan of clack, then this is a really cool mod, but if you like a deeper sound, it seems like a bad idea.

[@connor6665]

I'd agree but I feel like if you were to take a more "thocky" switch than the gat yellows (which is most) that you could find a good compromise between thocky-ness and the better performance this mod could produce.

[@leem0401]

It sounds thocky because the force travels through to the table. But the bad thing about that is that it has the harshest feel. I didn't know until I touched better keyboards... Before, I would have agreed with you!

[@noidsuper]

@@leem0401 I agree. Low tier tray mounts and the NK65 feel like you're typing directly onto the table. No give whatsoever

[@ventilate4267]

What happened is that by removing most of the case noise you can actually hear how pitched yellows are.

[@johnsabilla5897]

I 100% agree. Adding the ghetto plate foam did add some muting and that is as far as i'll go with modding. the rest of the mods made the keyboard sound less appealing to me.

[@datjp]

That intro. Yes. The most absolutely hardest truth about this hobby lmao. Loving the content recently! Keep it up. 🙌🏽

[@Keybored]

Thank you Julien! Thanks for the support!

[@backrowproductions1608]

It’s the subtle details like audio syncing that really make this video great

[@darkdealproductions]

just picked up an NK EE for my first commissioned build and I am going to be using this video as an absolute BIBLE-- thank you so much!

[@Keybored]

:) Glad to hear that! I still have this keyboard this way and do enjoy it once in a while haha. That's even being surrounded by double digit number of keyboards around me

[@TParkcasual]

Thanks for this, I'm definitely trying this for my NK65 EE. Just ordered the foam tape & o rings from Amazon, cheers my man!

[@Keybored]

Thank you Tony! I hope it turns out great!

[@mattpom9693]

my mind was blown when all the key presses for stage 3 sounded the same whatttttt!!?! never heard anything like that before

[@Keybored]

Hi Matt! Thank you so much for watching! When I did the stg 3 upgrade, it took away all of the hard mounting spots and really made the keyboard so even! I was surprised at the results myself!

[@jesuscostantino2925]

Man, you've got some serious tweak-game. Love it.

[@dianejhuang5080]

After watching sooooo many reviews and builds of NK65, this video is definitely the most brilliant one. I am totally impressed! The ideas that you have and try are original and show people what really is a "custom" mechanical keyboard. Btw, I personally like the sound with SA keycaps the most :) Thumbs up and looking forward to more videos from you!!

[@Keybored]

Hi Diane! Thank you so much for watching and I really appreciate the comments! SA caps definitely have a unique, warm sound and I really enjoy typing on them. I'm working on more content and hope to share with you soon!

[@anim604]

For a keyboard plebeian beginner like me, I'd stop at stage 2 as it already sounds pretty damn amazing. but, I get that hobby veterans and enthusiasts would want to go further. A new sub here. Enjoying the DIY content so far so I look forward to more of these informational and education content :)

[@Keybored]

Hi Andrew! Thank you so much for the sub, and so glad it was helpful! We all gotta start somewhere! Welcome to the hobby and hope you're enjoying the community!

[@kreebz3113]

Bro you're literally like a car tuner with stge 1, stage 2 and stage 3😂

[@Keybored]

Haha that is what I was thinking! Thanks for the support as always!

[@jayz9253]

Stage 0 FTW! Police made me to pop the hood to check for mods and make sure no leaky gaskets and O-rings visible. I ride stock to lower the weight and the sound profile of an (out of stock) stock NK65EE is gonna be around until Q3 2023 when it is said to be re-stocked.

[@tapojjalbhowmik2084]

yup now I've decided this will be my first board when I go to college in the next 5 months

[@Keybored]

:)

[@bloozism]

College is a waste of time if you’re not going for the right degree.

[@Logan-bp3uk]

I recently started a project of mine to change the nk65 EE look and mounting style. I decided to keep the bottom case and 3d print a top case in a different style. I figured during this transformation that it would be fun to try and implement gasket mount. I am now at the step where I have to drill into the case by making the USB-C port taller, maybe drill off standoffs, and drill a hole in the side of the case so I can screw them together (like the sides of the RAMA m65, as that is what I'm modeling it after). Also for gaskets when putting the top and bottom cases together is it good to squish the gaskets or let them sorta sit there with the top case on top of the top gaskets. I was wondering if you had any advice and if you think this would be a good idea.

[@hamishram9885]

Mate the level at which your content is at, is well above there with the best, keep it up!

[@Keybored]

Thank you so much Hamish! I have more content planned for the future so stay tuned!

[@marceldavis3628]

I Like where this goes . Try to optimize the planck please ☺️

[@Keybored]

Thanks Marcel! Hopefully I can get my hands on a Planck in the future!

[@tloloct1363]

the 8 dislikes are from people with red dragon keyboards and non existent stabs paired with buttery smooth mx blues

[@Keybored]

Haha you might be right!

[@ireaperv3]

I actually have a Redragon K530. It’s a 60% keyboard, and it comes stock with decent stabilizers, and Outemo brown switches. I bought a pack of gateron yellows, lubed them, and applied foam to my keyboard. It’s a pretty decent budget keyboard, that doesn’t require a crap ton of mods to sound nice. Edit: Blue switches are horrible. My friend has a 100% mx blues, and he thinks it sounds “nice.” I hate it. XD

[@jenthulhu]

Best sound overall was with the SA keycaps for sure! I did like the deeper stock sound, but this whole process was fascinating to watch. Usually when I watch these sorts of videos the sound becomes deeper after mods, so I wonder what exactly is affecting sound.I don't know if anyone has done a video comparing different sound deadening materials inside the case--methodically, one by one--but if they haven't, they should. In general, I think most people say that the high-pitched sounds are caused by a hollow case with no dampener inside. Hmmm. Perhaps silicone affects the sound differently than foam. Silicone is smoother and more dense than foam. Maybe it reflects back more of that high-pitched sound, whereas foam, being so porous, just sort of catches the sound where it hits. I don't know much about this sort of thing, but I do know that foam is generally used for sound deadening in household applications. And that high-pitched sounds generally travel farther and are considered more annoying than lower-pitched sounds.I've actually been considering putting foam in certain places in my teenaged son's room because of his late night gaming sessions with friends getting a bit loud from time to time. :D Sometimes I find it hard to believe that we invest so much time, thought, energy, and money into what amounts to little hunks of plastic that we press or tap with our fingers, but you know, that's humans for ya.

[@Keybored]

:) Humans are pretty amazing when it comes down to these things. I do fully agree with you that potentially the silicone dampener actually helps to fill the void to reduce the "hollowness" but does definitely bounce more sound back than a simple foam may do. I have been playing around with various materials and I realized that different cases benefit from different characteristics of the dampening material. In a recent KMAC build I have done, I compared simple shelf liner foam with butyl sound deadener and the difference was so dramatic. The butyl dampener did not quiet the sound more, but rather it helped the keyboard sound much more solid and denser, but at the same time a bit more prominent. I am also doing the same experiment with the GMMK Pro at this moment, and it feels like it also benefits from the denser material than the porous foam. Interesting stuff :)

[@jenthulhu]

@@Keybored Hey man, I hope this turns into a video. Sounds awesome. I'd love to see (and hear) your results!

[@theosullivan2292]

Such great content for this amount of subscribers. Keep it up!

[@Keybored]

Thank you for the support Theo! Will keep working on new content!

[@aa65064]

Since the NK65ee top case is already prone to cracking I think converting it to a true top mount may even increase the force applied by the whole assembly and the typing on the case. You should maybe do a long term test how this turns out. I know several cases where the top case was pristine on arrival and developing cracks after some time. Both me and a friend got one on the exact same spot on the left hand upper of the top half.

[@Keybored]

Hi Atkins! Thanks for brining that up! I'll keep that in mind and check if I start seeing any stress cracks!

[@leem0401]

NK65 PRO EDITION

[@OakJIM]

Just found your channel and I must say I really enjoy it. Subbed instantly because of the amount of effort put into this. Love it

[@Keybored]

Hi OakJIM! Thank you so much for the sub! I really appreciate it!

[@niko_okin4430]

It has a lot of echo even though it has foam. But I still love the sound

[@smoothes1585]

Agreed, but the result was way better then the stock version. Nonetheless, still has some audible echo as you said.

[@Keybored]

Hi Zushi! I believe the silicone dampener does help, but not the very best at absorbing the echo. I might try to add in a different foam and see how that changes!

[@sayacee5813]

@@Keybored maybe some tape on bottom case/corner would help

[@gwillad]

I am pretty astounded how much more consistent the final version sounds. I can only imagine how much better it feels too!

[@Keybored]

Hi gwillad! It made the keyboard feel and sound soo much more consistent!

[@chunkymilk1288]

I’m probably going to use Stage 2 with some tangies. I think it will sound very clacky :)

[@Keybored]

Stage 2 has the most lively sound in my opinion, while stage 3 is more even. With some Tangies, it'll sound great!

[@g_m1tchell396]

@@Keybored would this sound good with novelkey cream switches?

[@JYoutubes10]

Stage 3 has the clearest sound. The other stages, especially stock, sound muffled in comparison. I don't have experience with gat yellows, but I'd guess stage 3 is the best representation of their sound.

[@Keybored]

Hi Jesse! I agree! Stage 3 definitely has the cleanest sound, and also the most even. The gat yellows are very nice switches for their price point, and stage 3 allows them to be very well represented for sure!

[@skadoooodle]

dang you replied to like every comment on this video basically, keep up the good work i love your videos

[@thefadecriminal]

Nice vid, this would be so daunting for me... I liked the stage2 sound way better IMO. Love the content, I o ring moded my tofu 65 and it sounds AMAZING

[@Keybored]

Glad to hear that! It was interesting to see how the o ring mod changed the tofu as well as this Nk65. What little silicone rings can do is pretty amazing!

[@jenkmeier2406]

Hmm I think I like stage 2 the most. The switches sound the most poppy in this stage and it does not require much effort to o-ring mod it. Thanks a lot for the video!

[@Keybored]

No problem Jenk! I was also very torn between 2 and 3! 2 does definitely have a much more lively sound!

[@BobbySouffle]

I would never drill my NK65 but I appreciate your dedication. I like stage 2 the most probably.

[@Keybored]

Thanks Roberto!

[@cryptosecuritytools]

one of the best things anyone can do is dampen down the reverb in your room. Put up some diffusers, curtains, whatever it takes. Hard surfaces and especially uncarpeted floors will accentuate whatever you've got going on with your keyboard.

[@Keybored]

Yup! One day, I hope I can setup a proper studio! Right now it's a office/studio/bedroom all at once lol

[@tapojjalbhowmik2084]

Loved this mod brooo, GREAT WORK, GREAT video

[@Keybored]

Thank you so much!

[@AnzelLmao]

Damn this is probably the best sounding nk65 I’ve heard! While I think the hollowness sounds fine, I’d def take a look at neoprene or sorbothane, those are fantastic foams that soak up a ton of sound.

[@Keybored]

Hi Anzel! Thank you so much for the comments! I have tried sorbothane in metal cases, and that thing is just amazing! Only downside was the price, but if I could, I would use it in everything!

[@AnzelLmao]

@@Keybored Yeah i wanna use sorbothane so bad, but it's so damn expensive LOL

[@_ExTitus]

I clipped some stand offs with some flush cutters for another board because it just had way too many stand-offs, like 9 or so different stand-offs. I wasn't able to get it perfectly flush but it worked well to simply reduce the amount of screwholes and increased the ability of the pcb to flex slightly for the o-ring mod. I could see a drill being needed for alu or other metal cases but at that point it seems like you might as well mill your own aluminum case.

[@Keybored]

I wish I had a nice mill to mill my own cases and such. Maybe one day haha

[@cosmoanderson6376]

Interesting. After watching this i was able to do the same top mount you did on my Melody96 and WOW the change it made in even typing sound on all keys... Im now ordering the foam/orings to complete it since im using a brass plate and its still pretty harsh

[@Keybored]

I'm glad it worked out great cosmo! the foam and the o-rings should help to mellow that keyboard out a bit also! Good luck!

[@kalplays9922]

I can’t believe you skipped out the drilling part. That was oddly satisfying to watch with the first one. Lmao 😂

[@Keybored]

:) It was nerve wrecking... big drill on a plastic stand-off lol

[@iVilliain]

You earned my sub! Well done and good content man!

[@Keybored]

Hi ImARaptor! Thank you so much for the sub! I hope the content was helpful, and I'll keep working on new content for the future!

[@hoymachuupichuu150]

Ohhhh..... the end..... I wanna try this one one of my boards I don't care too much for lol!! Awesome video man!! You're definitely not BORED hahaahha

[@Keybored]

I try to keep busy! Been much busier planning and trying to make content late haha. Hope it's helpful to everyone!

[@hoymachuupichuu150]

@@Keybored well, it's bringing me back with every video, so I definitely think you're doing something right!

[@cindydubs9082]

this is why i love gateron yellows or any yellow switches

[@Keybored]

Gat yellows, especially the new pro ones are great! Can't beat the cost either!

[@Suddsmcduffs]

that space bar for the last step sounded like a real spacebar

[@Keybored]

:) Thanks!

[@StealYourName]

Hi! Thanks for the great video. Can I check with you, for the Mistel Doubleshot PBT Keycaps, may I know do they fit perfectly for the NK65 EE, especially the Home, PG Up, PG Down, End and Del keycaps in terms of their height as the keycaps are mainly used for the OEM full size keyboards. Thank you!

[@Keybored]

Hi StealYourName! Yup, the mistel keycaps worked perfectly for the 4 keys on the right! Not a lot of options, but there is a combination that fits and just had to program it in via to match!

[@IOSam]

Awesome intro (we've all been there 😂)!

[@Keybored]

It's just too true in this hobby lol

[@bartiierr]

@@Keybored what’s the keyboard in the beginning

[@Daniel-dj7fh]

Omg thats the stock sound of the nk65, thats pretty nice

[@Keybored]

:)

[@rnldry]

I am more of a THOCKY person so I like the Stage 1 with SA keycaps, it is not in the video but I can already imagine how THOCKY will it sound, great video as always!!

[@Keybored]

Thank you RNLD! I appreciate it!

[@johnyjoe2k]

To me the NK sixty five, sorry typing on a Prime E, already sounds perfect, once you mod the stabs. I personally clean out the stabs and relube them and the keyboard sounds hella nice.

[@Keybored]

Especially for the price, the NK65 is such a great value! I wonder how this landscape will change with the introduction of the KBD67 Lite and even the Portico keyboard around the same price point! Exciting time to start out in this hobby!

[@johnyjoe2k]

@@Keybored Well bro, the Ikki68 Aurora and Bauer Lite are set to come out. Ikki68 Aurora is a 65% gasket mount starting at $130. Look through Cannonkeys if you are in the states. It's set to launch 2/20/21.

[@Holly18th]

I just built mine today and i agree! Im super happy with how mine sounds but this video gave some cool ideas if i get over it hahaha

[@PK3DCGA]

Ever since your tofu oring mod, that became my sole way of thinking 😅, I'm glad to see you do the same for a top mount as that's what I'll end up with :) For the orings on standoffs, I guess if putting the top part over it is tricky, you can always use wooden toothpicks standing inside the standoff to hold the oring in place and help align yourself during positioning and you can just pull them out when ready to screw in. What's your opinion on silicone dampener as opposed to the other solutions ? 🤔

[@Keybored]

Hi Philippe! Thank you for the great advice! I feel silicone dampener does a good job of reducing the hollow sound, but I feel it doesn't dampen the vibration very well. So if you prefer something that absorbs more, try the zip n fit. If you like to feel the force, the silicone is fine!

[@PK3DCGA]

@@Keybored well thank you for your videos ! I'll look to do similar mods when I get my stuff ! Ah thanks for the nuance of noise / vibrations regarding silicone Vs the usuals, it's not something you can figure out watching videos. I'll keep that in mind ! Thanks

[@PK3DCGA]

If I can pick your knowledge again, maybe with a dumb question but hey, I'm looking to buy the o-rings. I have found some normal 4*1*1.5, and regarding the 3*1*1 the ones I've found they are fluorine rubber. Is that ok or would that not be good for an aluminium frame and stainless steel plate (maybe brass if I can make something work) ? (I'm going with an XD75RE and to avoid issues I went with its specific case, the aluminium with glass bottom)

[@justinlee3620]

the BEST content I ever seen. Thank you for this bc i been wanting a “clacky” keyboard and this should do it!

[@Keybored]

Hi Justin! So glad you enjoyed the content! Stay tuned for more in the future!

[@user-be3mk6cg4c]

I like the stage 3 with SA keycaps, but I am also a sucker for SA keycaps

[@Keybored]

SA caps have such a warm and woody sound. I love it!

[@MDMAVollerei]

I love this would be a great idea to test on a used setup, also I own both the aluminum and poly version of the board, Can you put in screw mount the stabs? I know they don't fit but finding a way to modify it with everything else going on could prove useful.

[@Keybored]

Hi Vollerei! The stock configuration can't take screw in stabs, but perhaps there is a way if the pcb will allow for it. Have to make sure there are no traces or components where the hook and screw holes would go :)

[@fong6081]

There is a reason I'm subbed :) Great vid! Just wondering if you have a link to the keycaps, thanks!

[@fredneverdead773]

Theyre mistel double shot pbt keycaps (theyre black on white and white on black) you can find it on amazon for like $45

[@Keybored]

This! Thanks Fred!

[@Keybored]

Thank you Fong! Fred is right about the keycaps!

[@DH-nf4iq]

I hope you consider doing this on a keychron k6. I don’t see that keyboard being covered the same way and I think it’s a great entry level 65% board.

[@Keybored]

Hi D H! I plan to mod a Keychron K6 in the near future! I have had some friends getting into the hobby, and they wanted a nice wireless mechanical they can start out with. I think the K6 fits that bill perfectly, and will have to tinker around with it to get the best possible performance!

[@sweesbees]

yeah don't think i'll bother with stage 3 but the burger mount sounds good

[@bloozism]

Sounds really good bro.

[@Keybored]

Thanks bro! It was all or nothing when I got to stage 3 lol

[@miguelcollado5438]

sounds more solid at Stg3, the sounds now resonate within the KeyCaps

[@Keybored]

Also sounds more even too!

[@mrscotchguy]

If you use plasticine clay instead of the included silicone dampener, it adds mass and can reduce the hallow plasticy sound.

[@Keybored]

Oooh that is good advice! Will have to try that for this Nk65!

[@mrscotchguy]

@@Keybored thanks! I've put it on three builds so far and have been super happy with it. Going to try it out with a layer of cork and holy pandas or boba thocs in the next week or so.

[@daan8052]

Stage 2 with some thocky switches like the gazzew 4ut and some SA Keycaps 👌. Thanks I will definitely give it a try

[@Keybored]

That sounds like a plan! Let us know how it turns out!

[@spinkey4842]

i found that kilmat or dynamat works a ton better at sound dampening in the bottom shell of plastic cases instead of using booby stuffing

[@Keybored]

Thanks for that advice Spinkey! Will look into some kilmat!

[@spinkey4842]

@@Keybored no worries man. if you do decide to give it a go, make sure to press it in firmly with the back end of a larger screw driver or something flat. it makes peeling the aluminum skin off easier. you risk a chance of the switches shorting out if the pins touch the metal. that's a good sounding keeb by the way

[@serene4566]

My mans having dreams over the NK65 EE 😂😂😂 Edit: You're stock NK65 EE Sounds so good! Dude, but after these mods it sounds INSANE.

[@Keybored]

Haha, the realities of this hobby... So much chasing after things! I was honestly shocked at how the NK65 transformed myself!

[@serene4566]

@@Keybored Yeah, literally it sounds AMAZING. Keep it up man, ur doing bits!

[@8bitsamurai6]

Stage 3 sounds great but 2 still really good with out damdging the case so i would go with it personally.

[@Keybored]

Hi Grey Fox! I was also very torn between 2 and 3 as well! I don't think you can go wrong with either :)

[@CozyMatthew]

It's almost illegal to sound this good

[@Keybored]

:) thanks Matt! I really appreciate it!

[@alexserver]

dude... I have a Lily 58 that has the same concept: the only thing that holds the PCB tied to the plate are the switches friction. In this case, the Lily58 is supposed to have soldered switches, but I have it with millmax, which makes it hot-swappable. long short story, every time I want to change switches, it is a nightmare, because the friction is not enough to keep switches well aligned to the PCB, since gravity does its job puling the pcb down to ground... I think that screws were a good thing to have, it's purpose is to bring stability to the keyboard, and you just removed that thing... good luck with gravity in some months.

[@Keybored]

Thanks for the heads up!

[@OrganicGreens]

Well done man can't wait for new videos. Subbed

[@Keybored]

Thank you so much for the sub Phillip! I really appreciate it! Will keep working on more content for the future!

[@jkpens]

Very cool. Did you consider replacing the silicone with a different dampener?

[@Keybored]

Hi jk! I am planning to rip out the silicone and put in dynamat! I have had great results with the butyl sound deadener!

[@jkpens]

@@Keybored Excellent--You already got the board sounding amazing, so looking forward to hearing a sound test to see if the dynamat makes a difference. Thanks to your video I'm eyeing my stock NK65 with an evil glint in my eyes... although I am currently using Zilents so I don't know that the improvement will be as noticeable... but I do have some Creams on the way & have a different board that has become my primary "quiet" board (KBD67 Lite).

[@kenshin1368]

What is the last sound test at 22:00? Did he lube and change keycaps? Also all 3 stages sound pretty scratchy to me, are the switches lubed?

[@peglord]

dude i think i found the best sounding keyboard i have ever heard

[@Keybored]

:) Thank you! I appreciate the support!

[@peglord]

@@Keybored no problem! getting my first mechanical keyboard soon :)

[@satur.3351]

ngl the unlubed stabs sounds pretty good

[@Keybored]

:) as long as you're happy, it's all good!

[@justinchow88]

How come you skip the 5th/“middle” screw in stage 2? Great video btw!

[@Keybored]

Hi Justin! I skipped the middle standoff to reduce the number of hard contact points to improve the feel and sound of the keyboard!

[@pabu7866]

Stock : 4:16 4:24 Stage 1 : 8:54 9:01 Stage 2 : 12:46 12:54 Stage 3 : 19:55 20:31

[@Keybored]

Thanks!

[@pabu7866]

@@Keybored Hi! I have a question. Do you feel any significant difference between the mauves and alpacas? I’ve been stuck on deciding on which switch to use, Thanks!

[@Keybored]

@@pabu7866 honestly, I don't feel much significant different between many of the jwk recolor linears. I know some have different blends and materials, but all very similar. It's a good thing... They are all good lol. I feel like alpacas have a slightly lower pitch than the mauve and perhaps can translate to a nicer sound. Smoothness wise, they're both so smooth that trying to rule one over the other seems a little silly. But both need film for sure! All JWK linears (excluding Durock pom) are so so without film... But turn top notch with film... An absolute must!

[@pabu7866]

@@Keybored Ok, I’ll listen to more alpaca sound tests. Thanks!

[@calvinlooi4500]

nice video! Can I ask how do you find the mistel keycaps compared to other cherry profile pbt ones? For e.g epbt?

[@Keybored]

Hi Calvin! The Mistel keycaps are ok for the price, but compared to the epbt, or other very thick, dye sub cherry, they do fall behind.

[@quokkaokka3473]

Awesome vid gramps.

[@Keybored]

Thanks!

[@quokkaokka3473]

@@Keybored omg senpai replied :O

[@StereoPenguin94]

sounds great id put a heavier switch for the spacebar for less of a thonk but thats me

[@Keybored]

Hi StereoPenguin! Thank you for the suggestion! I think especially these heavier PBT spacebars and the large SA spacebars will definitely benefit from a heavier spring for sure! I had to use a much heavier spring on the DangWang KMAC build video because that Titanium space bar had so much more heft!

[@eazydeezy5324]

Great content as always :)

[@Keybored]

Thank you EazyDeezy! I appreciate it!

[@lawrencelau2612]

is bottom flushed together or do you now have a small discrepancy? sound is great tho

[@Keybored]

Hi Lawrence! Stage 2 lifted the top ever so slightly due to the o rings. However, stage 3 fits pretty flush!

[@pheix]

not sure if i might have missed something, but why wasn't the middle plate screw burger mounted to the bottom standoff? Was it just not necessary in terms of securing the top to the bottom and only there for stability like the rest of the non screw-in standoffs?

[@Keybored]

Hi pheix! I assume for stg 2? I didn't use the center stand off so that I can create a void and help the pcb and plate float over the alphas! Helps to improve the typing feel and sound!

[@kiyosabe]

lmao the ringtone that my dad use every morning

[@urielalbertosanchezm]

If you are an expert in keyboards then you know how to make an excellent keyboard with an affordable one, that's what an expert does, being smart!

[@OneOriginalMind]

When I search for "Keyboard Mods", this is what I'm talking about!

[@Keybored]

Thank you Ammine! I hope the video was entertaining and helpful!

[@still6511]

Hey man. I noticed you've used almost 5mm thick foam between pcb and a plate. Is this thickness fine for hotswap build? Will switches pop out eventually?

[@Keybored]

Hi Still! The foam I used for the plate is actually very highly compressible and had no issues!

[@still6511]

@@Keybored Okay thank you for response.

[@rohana.7760]

Hi! It’s been a while, but what do you think of also o-ring mounting the plate to the top case? I feel like it should get much closer to that gasket mount feel?

[@Keybored]

It does help! Doesn't make it feel that much softer, but it does change the sound

[@rohana.7760]

@@Keybored thanks for the reply, looking forward to trying all of this stuff out in a couple months when I graduate.

[@makata_pro1698]

Stage 2 is really fire and my kind of Sound 😶‍🌫️😶‍🌫️😶‍🌫️

[@loojunhongcalebmontfortss9054]

I just did 3 and omg did it sound 100 times better

[@kav9533]

honestly i prefer the sound stock lol, but all up to preference and the feel is probably better modded

[@Keybored]

Yup! All preferences!

[@expertise2115]

Hey I had a question regarding stage 2 mods: 1. Do you have to use a smaller o ring size 3 x 1 x 1 for the screw to plate portion. Could I use the 4 x 1 x 1 for both ends of the screw? I ask because the smaller oring is oos. 2. What would happen if you never screwed the PCB to the plate and just had everything connected by the 4 corner standoffs? Would this improve flexibility or is there an issue I'm not seeing? (technically the four stand offs connect the plate to the PCB to the bottom case right?)

[@Keybored]

Hi Expertise! I chose to use the smaller o ring on top so that it fits easier :) I was afraid the larger one will squeeze out too much. If you can keep the larger one in OK, that should work also. For the second question, I think what you're proposing is like stage 2.5 lol. I actually didn't screw the pcb and plate for stage 3, and just friction fit with the switches :)

[@AdrianFrunza21]

Yo I have never knew abot true mount, nice vid

[@Keybored]

Thank you for the support as always!

[@gwu08]

The god of keeb mods is back

[@Keybored]

Thanks Gordon! Hope the content is helpful in the slightest!

[@gwu08]

@@Keybored I was able to make a budget burger mount on my kbd67 using the same o-rings I used to mod my tofu. Thanks!

[@Monkeh2001]

I've bought two packs of screwdriver tips and still haven't been able to find the right tip to remove the two silver PCB screws that are connected to the plate. 😔 Trying to foam btw. Any help would be appreciated 🙂

[@Keybored]

Hi Neb! I believe the tip I used was PH1!

[@Monkeh2001]

@@Keybored Thanks for reaching out man

[@BrianStormy]

Ah another keyboard enthusiast who likes destroying his keyboards (like me) haha 😂 Great video! Glad I found your channel!

[@Keybored]

Thanks for stopping by Brian! Loved your videos and they were very helpful!

[@takoyaki6531]

Can I use the 4mm for stage 1 or do I have to stick in the smaller 3mm? It's cheaper that way so I was wondering if it would work (around $33NZD if I buy locally from amazon with 4mm + 3mm rings)

[@PCConcepts]

space bar @ 19:56 changed my life

[@Keybored]

OEM profile PBT spacebars (SA also) filled with butyl sounds like that :)

[@cle2447]

Hey, do you mind sharing where you bought these keycaps from? I'm looking for the exact ones haha 😄

[@Keybored]

Hi Cody! The links to the caps are below! Hope that helps! amzn.to/3u8CiVo

[@Tao-dh9yz]

@@Keybored they look EXACTLY like leopold caps lol

[@Keybored]

@@Tao-dh9yz Hi Tao, I wouldn't be surprised if it was the same manufacturer!

[@Kokaloo92]

Hooooow have you been getting the top off after doing this?

[@Keybored]

Hi Kokaloo! Great question! I use a small screw driver to push through the screw hole in the plate and it separates the bottom from the top. Hope that helps!

[@hayoungie_]

Love this VIDEO!

[@Keybored]

Thank you!

[@piptaz04]

link for the OEM Profile PBT Double Shot White on Black keycaps??

[@Keybored]

Hi piptaz! Thank you for watching! Sorry I didn't provide any of the links to the products used in this video! I am working on creating some affiliate links to support the site, and will update the descriptions shortly! Meanwhile, please see below! amzn.to/3u8CiVo

[@piptaz04]

@@Keybored thank you very much!!

[@lycheesack]

4:25 #stock 9:17 #1 13:10 #2 20:33 #3 20:48 #123 22:05 #3 bonus

[@Keybored]

Thanks!

[@gzrise5988]

awesome mod lol, i'm wondering how well you can mod a womier k66 or yc66

[@Keybored]

Hi gz! Thank you for the comment! Will look into a womier!

[@impeledits2779]

Hey, I don’t know if you still reply to comments rn but I really want to know a few things. Do I have to drill the plate standoffs to get the top mount feel, or can I just not screw those in? Am I able to remove the bottom standoffs with just scissors or a knife you reckon? And is there any flex on your “top mount”? I also have spray painted my case so I don’t know if I need to add the tape since there is already that extra thickness there. Thanks, hopefully you can answer these.

[@impeledits2779]

With the flex part, I’m mainly talking about if it feels less stiff, if it doesn’t flex does it move up and down instead of just being completely stiff?

[@Keybored]

Hi imp5l! I do respond to the comments daily! If you want to get the true top mount feel, you would have to remove the stand offs to limit the contact between the plate/pcb assembly and the lower case. You don't have to drill it, you can use other methods like strong sheers or a knife to remove as well! If the case feels tight due to the paint, you might be able to get away without the tape! Hope that helps!

[@Keybored]

@@impeledits2779 In terms of the flex, It's not as much the up and down motion, but the lack of the hard points pushing against your key stroke below, provides a much more gentle feel. Hope that helps!

[@impeledits2779]

@@Keybored Ok, thanks. I'm a little confused though, why do those little standoffs on the plate need to be removed? Is it touching anything?

[@impeledits2779]

I don't have a drill so i might have problems removing the plate standoffs, that's why I'm worried. When you push down a key really hard, does it give/ move down? or still as stiff as before when bottoming out?

[@sky2934]

I been trying to o ring mount it but I'm having trouble closing the case, it doesn't close flush and I'm a bit afraid to put pressure on the plastic case. How was the tolerance closing the case? I have the milkshake nk65 edition I would believe it's the same mold and everything

[@Keybored]

Hi sky2934! I didn't have too much issues on the tolerance when closing the case with the o-rings. I was afraid that if the o-rings lifted it too much, it wouldn't clear the USB cutout in the back, but mine cleared ok. But my case was never fully flush with the bottom from even day one... perhaps there are some tolerance issues with some of these plastic cases as well?

[@sky2934]

@@Keybored thanks for the quick reply, yeah I tried to close it but the area where the middle stand was didn't want to go in as much compared to the board, I may just have to wedge it in slowly or screw the middle and take out the screw after. Thanks for the quick reply!