The Best RESIN SLICER SETTINGS Explained for every printer! - All Key 3D Printer Settings Explained

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0:00 - Introduction: Getting Started with Resin Printing
0:04 - Essential Setup: Ensuring Successful Prints
0:17 - Fine-Tuning Your Printer for Perfect Results
0:38 - Key Assumptions for Advanced Printing
0:52 - Importance of Resin Temperature Consistency
1:18 - Sponsored by Uniformation GK2: A Look at Features
1:58 - Exploring Layer Height Settings
2:17 - Adjusting Layer Heights for Optimal Detail
2:53 - Understanding Bottom Exposure Time
3:03 - Adjusting Bottom Layer Count for Stability
3:50 - Transition Layers Explained: Managing Exposure Shifts
4:26 - Calibrating Wait Times for Better Prints
5:33 - Lift and Retract Speeds: Enhancing Print Quality
6:06 - Lift and Retract Distances: Fine-Tuning for Precision
7:56 - Final Tips: Maximizing Print Success
10:57 - Future Topics: Anti-Aliasing and Advanced Settings
11:15 - Conclusion: Recap and Thanks to Sponsors and Members

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Its all about the cones! Really fantastic video Ross. This is a really good reference for people who aren't quite beginners but still need to learn more! I love it.

[@leonasworkshop]

Even after all I went through in last few weeks, this still helps a ton! Definitely bookmarking this and rewatching it several times

[@cedricsimon2555]

wow ! after a year of printing minis I just finally understood what those lift/retract sppeds and distances are. THANKS A LOT, SIR

[@realDanissl]

Getting back into resin printing, and anxiously awaiting my Saturn 4 Ultra, this is a great refresher! Thanks for all your content.

[@NetanelDeriWorkshop]

Rest Time Before Lift: The expansion of resin is not stop immediately when uv light is turn off ,this is photo chemical process with relative low time constant, so adding time to this parameters helps maintain expanse in x-y axis rethen than in z axis . Mainly influance in bottom layers where expose time is large. We have the name for the expanse in x-y as 'elephant foot' .yet we don't have a name for the problem i have of squeezing the first layers after bottom layers and in this case the solution was changing this parameters to 1 sec. (Nova 3D Red Wax like resin / Saturn 3 Ultra)

[@JerryBWagoner]

Wow...not the video I was expecting based off the title, but it is definitely the video I needed! I will be watching this one a few more times.

[@markhuseby8823]

This is fantastic Ross. I barely understood these settings before this video and has helped me dramatically improve my prints. Thanks for the heads up on "The cones of calibration" Its fantastic!

[@brushmaster66]

THANK YOU Ross, this is the first vid that explains the settings properly, you're a gods send bud 😀

[@Attipatty]

I just grabbed myself a Photon Mono 2 a couple days ago, BIG change over playing with my FDM printers. So luckily I'm at least starting from a foundation in other slicers like Cura. Looking forward to the lesson Mr.Hammer.

[@user-su1bn2ku1v]

Mr. Hammer - Looking forward to this. New to Resin.

[@albertogranadosbiz]

Finally. Had to figure all this out by myself. Great content. Thank you.

[@coinopanimator]

Great video. When I first started this was so confusing. You first video was a Greta help. I think this one will be a massive boon to everyone. It helped me release that I have finally understood the settings. 😂

[@TheHobbyLodge]

Very helpful thanks, just upgraded my old original Mars Pro to the 4 Ultra so being able to refresh myself on these and all your other content has been awesome... love to see the next one on Anti Aliasing.

[@AsimPaints]

Great video for newbies or just as a refresher! To reiterate to any newbies, your exposure times and lift speed/distance are likely the most important settings to get dialed in if you're having failures. Then look to your supports, then look to physical factors like room/resin temp, leveling, etc. Also for your bottom and regular lift speeds, you can either have a low speed or high speed, but there's a "dead zone" where layers will peel awkwardly off the FEP. A higher speed obviously means faster prints, but if you go too fast (or too slow) the cured layer will stick to the FEP or only partially release. Mine is 120mm/s and I get perfect prints (Jupiter SE). But if I were to print something small and delicate, I might want to lower those speeds. Can't wait for the AA video!

[@genemaster74]

Cheers to ya m8 for making this digestible, yes ill have to watch it a few times and watch your other vid to add context but, i think its the best vid to date that ive seen so well layed out. i have a Whale 2 by Nova3d, so i hope to get a better understanding of the whole process. Thanks ol son from A m8 Downunder🙃

[@kieronbateman6431]

got a mars 4 ultra and my god your videos have been a god send the entire channel is fenominal i have gone from knowing nothing to knowing theres a whole rabbit hole to go down but hey at least i am geeting succesful prints. tank you so much.

[@mugiahmad2286]

What slicer you use? And what best settings for that printer?

[@PizzaHandhelds]

THANKS!!! - this info is really tough to get and there are not many great resources that explain it well.

[@lukaslauermann1984]

ty for this incredibly detailed guide

[@eyeliketony]

Very informative vid!

[@RocktCityTim]

Thanks, Ross. I've been battling these decisions for 2+ years and I "think" I'm starting to see the relationships.

[@ruisugarushia]

Nice, thanks for clarifying all these terms and per slicer. I am looking for good support settings mainly for 32mm miniatures and small busts

[@B4MBI72]

A good cone always cheered me up.

[@FauxHammer]

I….. Ummmmm……. Okay……

[@dagingee]

Holy... the description really was behind me!

[@kikscomputers]

@FauxHammer This is a great Video, I have been hard set on single-stage lift/Retract. But I will start playing with Dual Stages from this video. This may be a stupid question, But are their any slicers out there that have variable settings based on the % of the build plate being cured in the layer. Ex. 25% of the build plate is being cured for that layer it will lift 6mm @300mm/m But if 80% of the build plate is being cured for that layer it will lift 9mm @60mm/m

[@seivmuva]

Woooow!! Thanks a lot 🙌🔥

[@RookieRay]

Can you do a video on making crystal clear prints from start to finish?

[@FauxHammer]

Yep, when I get chance

[@christiangruening352]

I hope Uniformation will come out with a new printer and a new upgrade kit. I would love an upgrade kit for my GKTwo for

[@Bad_Idea_Mike]

Great video! Just starting out and this helped a LOT! Any chance you could do a comparison video between Chitubox and Lychee?

[@untimention]

This is a phenomenal video so well done on that. Only bit I’d flag is cones is terrible. 3drs and Siraya do much better calibration tests

[@awildtomappeared5925]

rest time before lift is to allow the curing a little time to finish, it's supposed to help layers adhesion which can aparantly result in smaller supports working better, I've not tested this though. for rest time after lift, all printers I've seen have some acceleration/deceleration set in so it won't suddenly switch from lift to retract so personally I wouldn't worry about it switching super fast, especially when with fdm printers we have them buzzing about like mad without worrying. However I have seen people reccomend lifting fairly fast and low but then waiting after lift to allow the peel to happen by itself rather than just continuing to rip up. Again though I've not tested that.

[@FlesHBoX]

Oh man, talk about a blast from the past, seeing the original cones. Cones v3 is in testing right now on the tableflip discord. It prints faster and has some sweet new features.

[@TableFlipFoundry]

Almost there!!!

[@atuned85]

Great explanation! =) It looks like you have flipped the retract speed for burn in layers in Lychee (at 10:20). It looks right for the normal layers

[@FauxHammer]

OH in the base layers!!! ooops yeah!

[@mr.hobbits6430]

Обожаю твои видосы Всегда можна узнать что то новое ❤

[@chituboxofficial987]

Thanks for this great video! Very very useful!

[@benkonczal4584]

Would really appreciate the Chichu anti aliasing video when you get the explanation. Because I mess with that and I always read their little dialog box and look at the picture and yeah…. Doesn’t make any sense to me. I just think, the bigger the number, the softer or fuzzier my print detail will be 🤷🏻‍♂️

[@0x777]

What we'd really need is some sort of place where people can put their dialed in settings with all parameters so others have some reliable starting point to go from. Obviously you can't just copy someone else's settings and hope that they will be perfect because anything, from temperature to humidity and potential dust in the air, could affect printing success, but we'd really be able to save a lot of time considering the amount of printers and resins out there. And no, the settings from the makers of resins and printers won't cut it, because Anycubic will probably not be too interested in providing the GKTwo settings for their resins when they want you to use it with their own printers...

[@thejdi]

Time for a 3dprintingpro collab.

[@FauxHammer]

would love it!

[@TheHunch8ack]

Cheers, Ross. I’ve got to the ‘wait after lift’ bit and have paused to post this so apologies if you cover this later. As I’ve always understood it, wait after lift is important to allow the resin to refill the space left by the lift. The more viscous the resin the longer the time. Your new Wargamer v 2 resin, for example, suggests you pimp it to 2.0s, if memory serves, which is obviously larger than the slicer default but Adam did say it was more viscous so that makes sense (I’m just running the gamut of calibration tests now so I guess we’ll see :) ). There’s certainly a linear inertia issue with setting it to zero, which could potentially increase wear and tear, but the main reason for waiting is resin refill (but I may be talking out of my arse on that, clearly). Cheers.

[@FauxHammer]

Yes that's right and I think I do say this immediately after talking about all the waits. But the bit i still don't get is wait before lift...

[@TheHunch8ack]

@@FauxHammer I know :)! I wonder if it's because the motor-hormunculus is knackered and needs to have a sneaky quantum-fag behind the dual rails? That sounds about right. Certainly I've always assumed that 3D printing is essentially witchcraft and that the machines are essentially run by a tiny little demon that runs around inside pulling levers (randomly, it would seem, in the case of some of my prints). I enjoyed watching you wipe out a ton of settings in your recent Saturn 4 Ultra video: very satisfying. What we really need is the rest to go so it's just consumer, rather than tinkerer, all the way. Then I can let my own tiny little (biological) demons loose on my precious printers. But for now they can stay the hell out of the room and just play with the magical toys wot emanate from within . . .

[@AsimPaints]

@@FauxHammer Maybe wait before lift is because you don't want to exert force on a freshly cured layer of resin? Perhaps even though it's chemically cured there's still a "settling" period for the resin? Idk, I'm just guessing. I've never bothered with this and had no issues with delamentation or anything.

[@badbones777]

Love this video -super useful - A question though - at around the 10.20 ish mark, on the Burn in portion, (in Lychee) I think it shows lift speed as 60>240 but it also has that as retract speed - Am I right in thinking that should be lift 60>240, but retract 240>60? Just want to know what way round to put theseetings as I don't want to get it wrong and accidentally be driving the build plate and models towards the screen at high speed at close range! Also, I've had a couple of support fails - it could be that the presupports themselves just aren't great but as it's a slightly larger piece (itsa roughly greater daemon sized thing that comes in legs, torso and arms as a point of reference) some that were quite late on in the print and some wherea few of the supports seemed to fail early, but in both cases the pieces were still on the build plate and otherwise printed fine. (some were completely successful) Temp should be fine as it's a gk2. Wondering if it's worth dropping the lift and retract speeds (and if so roughly to what) or maybe knock up normal exposure to help the support tips, and maybe add a couple of my own supports?

[@raphaelsanabria7505]

This video was super helpful, but im a bit stuck my printer is an autolevling printer and a lot of those setting are gone should i still change the lift distance and speed im more for better printes if they print slower? Can anybody lend a hand I'd appreciate and also 5hx for an awesoem video

[@rsilvers129]

Is the auto-orient and auto-support ability of the free version of Lychee as good as the HeyGears slicer? Mostly I am asking about the auto setting experience of a Saturn 4 Ultra with Lychee compared to spending 3x as much on a HeyGears.

[@leo120476]

Good one! Can you make a vídeo about using anti aliasing and replacing the acf film?

[@grigoristsachouridis335]

Hey Ross can i use tgese settings for every resin? for example i used nova 3d standar grey with the normal profile on chitubox and now i swapped to white and black resin and i get failures with the same settings.. are there any settings that can work with every resin so i dont have to change them every time?

[@erickcandanedo3210]

i see you using the yellow spatula. i have read so many coments of not to used it. use a rubber one. But on a recent video of uncle jesy for the elegoo saturn 4 ultra. he also use the yellow spatula. so i guess is ok. As long as you dont press hard on the feb. ???

[@MrKiar1611]

The only thing that bugs me is the support :/ I never know the support number vs weight ratio, let alone the difference orientation. All I found is, by aligning the longest edge along z axis and give it 20degree-ish give the best result. But it also means the most time consuming orientation.

[@IgnaceVanHoeydonck]

What would be for now your best mid budget resin printer?

[@FauxHammer]

have a look at my "Best 3D printers 2024" video

[@arsentshshmarityan7104]

Hey, 1st of all, THANK YOU for your work! and i have a question, how can i reach the maximum printing speed of any printer, just by increasing the numbers and waiting for the fails come ? and how might this effect on printer? Tnx

[@FauxHammer]

Yep, that;s exactly how I do it

[@arsentshshmarityan7104]

@@FauxHammer Thank YOU!

[@WireHedd]

They mostly come out at night...mostly. Great review Ross, Thanks. Do you still need that capture card for the garage?

[@FauxHammer]

I got an Elgato 4k x, software is shit, it’s going back. No space on my main board for internal cards

[@WireHedd]

@@FauxHammer I have a 4k@60hz USB C - HDMI that'll work with just about anything but I use OBS and it works great. It's sitting here in the box with a few other kinds (reviewer here too) so shoot me an email and I'll send it out with my next bundle on Friday. Just give me a mention if it works. LOL

[@coreymartin9630]

The motor should be fine if you don't have it wait after a lift, the distances and speeds are so small that the inertia is basically negligible, also considering that FDM printers are whipping the toolhead around like crazy seems like solid evidence that the motors can handle it. But also it definitely doesn't hurt to give the printer and the resin a moment to settle between layers, half a second per layer seems like a pretty small price to pay in exchange for more consistent prints

[@FauxHammer]

That’s a good point actually, never thought of it that way

[@jme2006]

Do you know what the smoothest feeling resin is? I'm looking for something that has nice low friction surface feel when the part is completely cured. I think I want white resin but am asking around if that's correct

[@FauxHammer]

I'm not sure how "white resin" is any smoother than any other colour.... Why do you ned low fricton, what is the purpose? I suspect whatever resin you get wouldn;t matter. these models are printed by making teeny-tiny cuboids, so you'll need to smooth it after... either by sanding or coating.

[@jme2006]

@@FauxHammer We're printing some moving parts and the gummy/grippiness of some resins is causing unsmooth binding feel. I have some game pieces that have internal moving components

[@mtnwolfNE]

@FauxHammer So now my question is - GK Two or Saturn 4 Ultra? The ultra is closer to my budget, but I've been highly discouraged by near 100% failure rate on my Mars 4 Ultra and Mono X2 (likely temp related despite efforts to remedy). Which machine do you think changes the game more significantly for the price point?

[@Bobby11]

If i was getting those kind of failure rates on two different printers then id be looking for something ive missed. Maybe choice of resin. Or yea, the temperature.

[@bacawaka2813]

There is a new version of the cones of calibration test where you stick a sword into a skull for a dimensional accuracy test.

[@FauxHammer]

yep, It came out the Day after I recorded this. I'll be covering it. I spoke with Ty before making this

[@theromeog]

I just preordered a S4u but after watching all your videos about the GK2 being top dog, I’m seriously considering canceling the preorder and getting a GK2. I’m so torn on what to do. Sigh.

[@FauxHammer]

I would love to help, but I am also still torn. I think, if you have heating sorted and this will be used in doors in a room that is constantly at room temperature, this. Otherwise, the GKTWO, which has other benefits aswell would be my top pick still. But damn it's close now!

[@theromeog]

@@FauxHammer Dang - I was hoping you would be more clear cut and say this one. LOL.... I do print in my basement with temps usually at 70f / 21c - I use an Ebay chamber heater for the saturn 2 now. Would honestly say I get 90% success on prints and the 10% failure I don;t know if it's my supports or temps. Guess will see, going to stick with the S4U for now.

[@AkalaFPS]

@@FauxHammerWhich is faster? S4u or GK Two?

[@AsimPaints]

If price is a concern go for the Saturn 4. I think the GKtwo has a large print area, at least for z-axis. Might be something to consider. I love Elegoo but they do seem to have a tiny bit more quality control issues than I would like. Not nearly as bad as Anycubic lol.

[@AivasRequiem]

Is there any way to know if print failed because of settings or bad supports? Because I did cones calibration, but some prints are failing, around 20%

[@FauxHammer]

Where are they failing… think about the process. At what stage are you getting fails and where?

[@leo120476]

Another question: you always talk about how the “K” advertised by the companies is irrelevant and I get that. But how about the precision of all the printers? Is it irrelevant or is it always supposed to be 0μm?

[@hamlets.helmet]

Hello, when I lower the printing layers from 0.05 to 0.025, do I have to raise or lower the lift speed? Greetings!!

[@FauxHammer]

Tell me, what do you think??? Serious question…

[@hamlets.helmet]

​@@FauxHammer Lower it I suppose, but I also think about raising it so that the thin layers receive the UVlight quickly since the curing time must be lower for better details

[@FauxHammer]

@@hamlets.helmet thanks so I was looking further your reasoning so I could know best to answer. Your lift speed only affects the pull forces. And there is an argument that with thinner layers. The I’ve exposure would increase adherence of each layer to the previous one as it can penetrate a deeper percentage into the thinner layer. So there’s actually an argument they can be increased. But in reality, it will be that marginal a difference you are talking fractions of a second. Get your other settings dialled in first, and for speed. Just steadily increase it until you get failures. Then step back.

[@hamlets.helmet]

@@FauxHammer You made it quite clear. Thank you!

[@FauxHammer]

@@hamlets.helmet one is glad to be of service

[@rgb9795]

ROSS HELP ME PLEASE!

[@FauxHammer]

Let me know on what the issue is mate

[@jasoncombs3232]

I've got a feeling Elegoo just changed the industry and soon all these settings will not matter in all new printers from here on out.

[@awildtomappeared5925]

elegoo aren't the first to do tilting vat peels so I doubt everyone will start doing it now

[@antoniomromo]

I think the difference between when Prusa did it and this, is that they are able to do it with a low cost machine. Plus Elegoo tends to be a trend setter for the value level space

[@farplaine]

@@awildtomappeared5925 I haven’t seen a single other printer in the affordable consumer printer category with a tilting vat. Every reviewer is calling the Saturn 4 a game changer because of the titling vat.

[@AtlisTitan]

I agree. I like my Anycubic Mono X2 but I'm considering selling it for the new Saturn. The ease of use is just so appealing.

[@hakowy]

Waste of time , those settings are bad

[@FauxHammer]

What, why? How?

[@hakowy]

@@FauxHammer i have tried them and it was so bad , models that normalny before were printed allright , now failed. Im using now better settings ( i have s3 ultra)

[@StumblingBumblingIdiot]

What would I do - I would buy a saturn 4 ultra so I don't need to mess with all the settings any more 😁 I imagine all the new resin printers will have these features along with the tilting vat soon so there should be a ton of options. Does help me on my old mars 2 pro to understand the random numbers I was putting in and testing with!