The Common Climbing Injury You've Never Heard Of (Pulley Thickening Causes & Fix)

[@ArtZ00]

You guys are back!!

[@HoopersBeta]

Yesss!! Finally 🎉 Thanks for being the first to welcome us back!

[@danielbeall7725]

Wahoo!! 🎉

[@Veloxzr]

It's absolutely wild that you come back with a video addressing the exact injury that's been plaguing me for months and of which I couldn't seem to find information anywhere

[@thierrylevasse494]

Same here!!! 😅

[@HoopersBeta]

Sorry to hear that it's been plaguing you but also stoked that we came out with this to help! I love good timing :) The tool and recovery blueprints definitely took us a long time to develop, but we are back and ready to make more recovery videos!

[@breezyillo2101]

SAME.

[@DIYSupply]

Agree

[@jeffwhite1334]

Same lol. I went back and watched the other pully injury videos and didn’t think it quite lined up. Felt like a had a bubble at my A4. Couldn’t grab jugs.

[@middle-agedclimber]

The best climbing info channel is back.

[@Cr1ms0nSE]

🎉🎉🎉 finally back! Was worried about you

[@HoopersBeta]

Haha sorry for the concern!! That tool just took so long to develop, but well worth it! But we are psyched to be back! 🎉

[@Miura.Powers]

Return of the Doc VI May the Tendon be with you!

[@HoopersBeta]

Haha someone knows I love Star Wars 😅

[@dalmirogranas9990]

So glad to see you back. My favorite climbing channel by far ❤️

[@HoopersBeta]

🥰 we’re blushing

[@debblok6324]

thank you for your ongoing support in the climbing community! i have always found your videos informative, fun and grounded.

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you for the kind words! We look forward to continue supporting this great community as best we can :)

[@quentinzaparucha53]

I'm so glad you are back with a new video. I missed you!

[@ConcreteD]

Great to have you back! tried your finger tool, works well, neverending capsulitis confirmed...

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks for using the tool! Glad it worked well 👍👍 time to treat that capsulitis? Lol.

[@Slab_Justice_Warrior]

I literally thought of how I hadn't seen a Hooper's Beta video in a while. This simulation is listening I guess. Yay!

[@michaellarson_]

Great video, Jason. I'm a PT student getting ready to head on my final clinicals and hoping to work with climbers and mountain athletes in my practice. I've dealt with some nagging finger pain exacerbated with starting board climbing a few months ago that I could never really get to the bottom of, but now it's clear I'm dealing with IIPT. Thanks for all your (and the team's) hard work!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks for reaching out and good luck with your final clinicals! Definitely a good call to find a niche working with climbers and mountain athletes. Sorry to hear of the finger pain but stoked that this video helped you get it figured out!

[@rdsawn]

Sooo happy you guys are back! Apart from being so well-produced (and sometimes downright hilarious), your videos are so effective and comprehensive that they've long been my first stop for injury prevention and treatment. This video is the perfect example. Excited to try the tool!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you for the super kind comment! That was certainly nice to read this morning :) And yes, we are stoked to be back and have more videos in the works! The tools we created last year just took a very long time to complete hah.

[@pasdedoigtpasde7a]

Thanks as always for sharing your knowledge and for this great new tool to help us with different types of injuries on our fingers! I’m a French climber and KZbinr as well, and it all started because of an injury (tenosynovitis) on my ring finger at the A2 pulley. Now I focus on helping others avoid the mistakes I made, and I often redirect them to your videos because they’re incredibly well-informed and never condescending. I hope you'll keep making this videos 😁

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you for the sharing and your kind message! We definitely plan on keep making videos :) We had to take a long time off to get our tools up and running but we are psyched on them now and are back to making videos.

[@yoavravid7893]

Love the video! I've definitely had this injury before and had to figure out how to treat it myself, hope this finds the right people.

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad you enjoyed the video, thanks for watching and commenting! I'm glad you were able to treat it yourself though, it can be a tough one!

[@roshanpatel4037]

Dude you're a freaking legend - just had a pulley injury and this was the content I was looking for

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad the content is helpful! We are definitely back and ready to get more recovery videos out there :)

[@ClimbingDictionary]

Yay they have returned

[@LironHaber]

My favorite way to procrastinate is watching Hooper’s beta🥰😍

[@HoopersBeta]

♥️ hey I mean I'd you're learning that's still productive! 😉

[@LironHaber]

@ 🤯

[@danielchoi6958]

Yoooo the long awaited return!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks for waiting! Psyched to be back 🤙

[@Emil_Ortiz]

I was genuinely concerned...so little educational content...the brain rot, nearly started taking collagen. Glad you're back!

[@HoopersBeta]

Just in time for the TikTok ban! 😂

[@benjaminstapp8008]

Whoa, long time no see! Great to see new awesome climbing education content

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad to be back! Making the finger assessment tool and Recovery Blueprints took a huge chunk of time! But we are psyched to have released those tools and are excited to get back to making content :) Thanks for the welcome back message.

[@chuffer595]

I used your diagnostic tool the day it came out bc i was having pain in my ring finger for the first time in 17 (!) years of climbing. It said very confidently that I had pulley thickening... Trying to do all the right stuff but it's hard being patient when I've never dealt with a finger injury before! Thanks for the video

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad you were able to use the tool!! Sorry about the injury, but you're right, one of (if not the) most difficult parts of recovery is patience. That one is important to be patient with though cause it can certainly linger!

[@chuffer595]

@ relying on strong healthy fingers since childhood is finally biting me in the ass XD

[@astro_climber_7]

Great work Jason (and the team), thanks a lot! really happy to see contents from you all again! :)

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you! Stoked to be back. And thanks for acknowledging the team! Afterall, this is 100% a team effort :)

[@joshuawang6330]

My friend made an appointment with you and got a finger Ultrasound, sounded like he has something similar to this. Super glad there's a video out about it now so I can learn more about it, thanks!

[@rgriscom]

HOOPER IS BACK, Y'ALL!!!!!

[@HoopersBeta]

Yew!! Let's goo!! Happy to be back :)

[@joji_okami]

Welcome back!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you! Stoked to be back.

[@nathanrice7352]

Welcome back, homie.

[@felixbaker8709]

He's back! Btw the video quality is lit. Got a new camera?

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks! Same camera, new spray wall in the background 😁 -Emile

[@felixbaker8709]

@@HoopersBeta I appreciate the great quality anyway. Cheers guys

[@maxxi89]

welcome bacckkkk

[@JankyJymClimbing]

The Hooper is back! Been missing the uploads. I've got a cyst that has been painful in the past, especially on large holds where pressure is direction however it is not really causing any pain anymore (thankfully?). It is at the very base of my ring finger on the right side, just where the creasing is of the skin. Been a bit unsure what to think of it as it used to be painful on contact but isn't anymore, however the location, size and shape hasn't seemed to change any. Other than that I have been (knock on wood) enjoying a relatively injury free stint of climbing.

[@HoopersBeta]

We're back! And stoked to be :) The Finger Assessment Tool and Recovery Blueprints ate up most of our 2024! But, super worthwhile projects :) Yeah that sounds right for a cyst! They can get smaller over time, and the pain response does seem to diminish until the point of being eliminated completely over time, and will likely stay that way, so that's good! Glad to hear your back to relatively injury free climbing :)

[@dominicwiseman7477]

I had / somewhat still have a similar cyst that I saw my hand therapist for. Progressively loading block pulls, warming up before climbing and time has helped it become pain free and almost gone! Best of luck

[@TheHolyCookie]

Thank you!, managed to work out it was an FDP strain i had via your self-assesment

[@HoopersBeta]

Awesome!

[@UberPlaysGames]

dawg I was concerned about you, welcome home!

[@HoopersBeta]

Haha we appreciate the concern and are stoked to be back / home ;) Thanks for reaching out! Hope you enjoy the new vid!

[@eskaladin2411]

So worth the wait, thank you :) !

[@HoopersBeta]

Yew! Thank you for saying that :) Sorry for the long delay!!

[@justinrothmedia]

Hooper's Beta is back!

[@HoopersBeta]

Took us long enough! 😅

[@shuopeskoe-yang4285]

Very cool finger tool, thank you for creating this and sharing with the climbing world!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you for saying that! It was a long process but we are so happy to share it and try to help climbers as much as we can!

[@Zhiloreznik]

He knows when I tear pulleys. Just tore A2 on a ring finger yesterday. Great time to set a recovery protocol

[@frisbeedan8905]

I hate to see how long the recovery time is, but man am I happy to finally figure out what the hell is wrong with my finger! Thanks for the info!

[@HoopersBeta]

If you hate that timeline, trust me, you don't want to just ignore it haha because it can linger for soooooo much longer if you do! It's a tough one if you don't take care of it, but quite manageable if you do.

[@Pineapplesf]

I had a finger injury that was really difficult to sort which I hope can add to your finger injury database. My whole life I've had hyper extensive fingers. Unlike those with eds, the joints would "lock" into a hyper extend position while being actively or passively engaged. While I had gone to several PTs and doctors for this issue, they assumed it was some sort of arthritis or eds and I just get advice to "get stronger." It turns out it's called spontaneous congenital swan neck deformity. The tendons can get 'stuck' above the joint and can't rotate back around. After an painful finger injury (it felt like popping a joint but super painfully) I found out that if the locked joint is forced open the forces are enough to shatter the bone. I was lucky it wasn't that bad. It can happen with something as simple as washing dishes or waving your hand, although mine happened when I landed a dyno. There aren't a lot of people with it and definitely not a lot of climbers so finding advice has been difficult. My hyperextension is too severe for plastic splints so I basically tape all my fingers into a claw shape every time.

[@kavali6320]

Yeah, the Doc's back with another very well-structured video. Your website looks👌 btw ;)

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you!!

[@carlosbantaya09]

Hey! Climber here! I am just hoping if you could do a video about hypermobile fingers! I have a few fingers that are hypermobile (double jointed) at the Dip Joint and it causes my pulley to pull easier because of the hyperextension

[@ZenSendsMedia]

Would you do a video on BPC-157? Would be interested to get a climbers perspective on this peptide as it undergoes further research.

[@PascalPoredda]

Did you guys get a new camera and new lighting? It looks damn sharp and the depth looks niceeeeeee

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks! Just a slight tweak to the lighting and new paint on the spray wall 😄

[@Zevoxian]

Oooo I think I’ve had this! The regular descriptions of pulley injuries were a little too severe and mine reconverted quicker. Think I went through this a few times really

[@HoopersBeta]

Yeah it seems pretty common to go through it multiple times since the cause can be so similar for individuals.

[@tylervelasquez5639]

Back at last!!!

[@HoopersBeta]

Yew!!! We are back! Developing the tools and recovery blueprints took longer than expected haha. But psyched to back. More vids to come soon :)

[@yercules]

Sup! Long time no see 👊

[@HoopersBeta]

👋

[@sauzefilms]

hey this is what i got on my first day of climbing lmao. didnt prepare my hands when using the downclimb jugs, pinched the A2 area quite hard. the pain lasted for a few months whenever i apply some pressure like carrying groceries or opening those lever-styled door handles. i wish this video appeared back then, but at least i learned to use my hands properly throughout the months lol.

[@HoopersBeta]

Ouch, that's a rough entry into climbing! Sorry we didn't have this out back then for ya!

[@jakub3248]

For me it helped to tape the finger in such a way that I create a form of cushion instead of tightly taping it. A lot of pieces of tape on the hurting region, piece of tape along the whole finger, and additional few pieces at the ends and in the middle to make secure everything. Still recovering. Ultrasound showed thickening near PIP.

[@HoopersBeta]

Yeah that's the common location for it, at the distal edge of the A2 (near the PIP joint). And that makes sense with the tape, thanks for sharing your experience and hope your recovery continues to improve!

[@shoddyfootwork]

Question: will the thickening ever subside? My right ring finger A2 is extremely easy to feel via palpation and has become quite weak, so I'm afraid I have a rather severe case of IIPT. If it won't subside, will this permanently affect my climbing, or is a full recovery still possible? Glad y'all are back, and thank you for the continuous effort put into producing quality content that helps all climbers!

[@HoopersBeta]

Have you done any official rehab or recovery work for it yet? If not, that's the first step! We have programs for this exact issue also. With proper recovery, the symptoms will resolve and strength will return. As for the thickening / size, uncertain if it will 100% resolve but I do often see it reduce (especially with proper recovery work :)) And thanks for the welcome back :)

[@shoddyfootwork]

Thanks for the response! I’ve done some formal rehab, which has been ruined by the occasional (and classic) “oops I pulled too hard” moments. Since this video outlined exercises and general guidelines for a recovery, I’m confident I’m on track now. I was primarily curious if the thickening itself will subside. I’ll report back 🫡

[@illan5505]

Very interesting video ! I think this condition is often confused with tenosynovitis. I've almost always had lumps after small injuries because of bad load management. Which took me months to resolve and make the pain go away. I was wondering, once the pain subside, could it be in any way beneficial to have had IIPT since having thicker pulleys could help prevent potential ruptures in the future ?

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad you found it interesting! IIPT can also cause tenosynovitis, so it can definitely be a confusing one. To answer the second question, assumptions would have to be made since we don't have any studies on that. The thickening in this case is disorganized, and disorganized tissue is not as good at resisting forces compared to well organized tissue. So in short, no, not likely. That doesn't necessarily mean the chance of a pulley tear is increased, but I certainly would not say that it decreases the chance with any confidence.

[@illan5505]

@@HoopersBeta Many thanks for taking the time to answer. When the lump “disappears”, does it mean that it's getting reorganized in a good way and contributes to the healthy thickening of the pulley or disorganized tissue just go away with time and is replaced with organized tissue ?

[@rotamrofsnart]

What does fatigue at the start of a rep/set feel like?

[@HoopersBeta]

The feeling of being pumped, tired, weaker, etc.

[@pcninjagaming595]

Thank you! I was diagnosed with tendinitis and was following recovery tips for that but wasn’t getting better. I’ve got a sizeable lump in my finger at the end of the A2 pulley and it seems like it’s probably pulley thickening which I hadn’t even heard of before.

[@HoopersBeta]

You're welcome! And yeah that certainly sounds like it! You can use the tool for additional information, or get an ultrasound for ultra confirmation. We have recovery programs available for this issue as well!

[@voidworth9004]

watching this video before going to get medical help is like having all the answers to the test the day before.

[@HoopersBeta]

That's a great feeling :)

[@ДимитърГраховски]

Yep, had it so many times, but what I usually do is easy or no climbing one week, then one week climbing easy, not stressing my fingers routes/boulders. With the above I massage my finger regular plus go for Emil Abrahamsson's No hangs. And it goes away. And not just goes away for few days, but until I just overtrain my fingers

[@paulgaras2606]

Oh this is great since i just started a moonboard project

[@HoopersBeta]

Hah well just remember that recovery is crucial to advancement and sending projects :)

[@aaronhauptmann869]

your timing for this episode could not have been better for me. I recently had some pulley pain that presents exactly with these symptoms. The thing I found initially odd was that the first few pulls against my force gauge would feel painful but as the finger warmed up I would be able to pull 90% of previous strength without much pain, in fact the pain starting at 45 pounds for the first rep would be more than the last rep at 95 pounds. After several weeks of progressive loading, mostly recruitment lifts from the ground, the pain during sessions is gone, but there's still some sensitivity to touch. Taping reduces the soreness after each session as well. Its hard to know if I should keep going how I am or regress things further. Before I realized what this was I was able to PB a max hang for 7 seconds, which makes this injury all the more confusing.

[@jacobchrist999]

Great video, welcome back! I hurt 2 of my fingers a couple of months ago (most likely pretty big partial pully tears). I went to a physical therapist and got a schedule for individual finger loading (half crimp) 7s on 10s rest, 10 reps, 2-3 sets. I’ve been progressing well adding 0,5-1 kg per week. However, I have a pretty “big” bump like you are describing on one of the fingers. It’s not really painful unless I press hard on it. Should I continue with what I’m doing?

[@jeanguidemontmirail]

Amazing video ! When the lump disappears after some time, does it mean that it's getting reorganized in a good way and contributes to the healthy thickening of the pulley ? Or disorganized tissue just go away with time and is replaced with organized tissue ?

[@HoopersBeta]

Good questions! Yes, it likely means it is getting reorganized in a good way. I can't say if that full remaining tissue is completely beneficial, though. We would have to biopsy the tissue and study it under a microscope to understand the full complexity of it.

[@barakGBS]

I now understand that I had couple of those through the years. It not hart anymore but the lumps are still there.

[@HoopersBeta]

Glad it's not hurting anymore, at least! But yeah that makes sense that the lumps still exist. Do they feel any smaller over the years?

[@florianunterfrauner2041]

I have a really strange issue: between climbing sessions, I experience some pain in the area of the A5 pulley when bending my finger. However, while climbing, once my fingers are warmed up, I feel almost no pain. But as soon as my finger gets cold, the pain comes back.

[@nathanrice7352]

I've got a weird recurring issue/injury I've never been able to explain. Might make a good video? Whenever I do any kind of Open Hand training, my PIP and DIP joints start hurting on the back side. Even if I keep the load low enough that it doesn't feel challenging at all, it's like it's stretching the joint in a way that's not meant to be stretched. Once I notice it, I have to stop doing open hand positions for about a month for it to go away.

[@rollonagrubym]

Should the bulge on the pulleys decrease on its own? Over the course of 6 years, I’ve developed 8 such bulges. It always ended the same way: after the injury, I never had any more problems with the specific pulley where the bulge developed, but to this day, I can still feel each of them with my hands.

[@HoopersBeta]

Good question! They certainly can reduce, but some thickness may remain indefinitely. I've seen them reduce on scans over time with good rehab but I haven't tracked one for 6 years yet ;)

[@maximedelmas]

I believe I had this exact issue (A4 thickening found with ultrasound and pain at this location). It went away after doing rehab with a physio for like 3-4 months, doing 2 sessions of fingers loading 2x a week. Ask me anything.

[@Averell64]

I have a lump between the a1 and a2 pulley (little bit above the base of the finger) which is roughly the same size as a rice corn - its not painful and it came after a hard pull on a pocket. Size doesn’t change, no matter whether I take a few weeks off climbing or climb every day. I always thought (and still do a little after having watched the video) that it was a ganglion somewhere on the pulley. Since my range of motion is not limited and my fingers feel as strong as ever I am currently choosing to ignore it 😅

[@HoopersBeta]

Could be a cyst if it feels more spherical, mobile, and compressible. Pulley thickening is typically more firm/rigid and less mobile/immobile. It can also feel like a "speed bump". The size, whether it's a cyst or IIPT, likely won't change even with a few weeks off, it takes more managed loads, tissue work, and a lot more time hah. Both cysts and IIPT can reduce in size over time, but they both may be there to an extent indefinitely.

[@Averell64]

@ huh, that is really interesting as speedbump would be a good description - I’ll try to get it scanned sometime in the next couple weeks, then I’ll know more. Didn’t bother with it as I thought it would be a ganglion to which I was told that it could easily be ignored as operating has a chance of damaging the pulley and there would still be a risk of it coming back and leaving it wouldn’t have any risks given it doesn’t hinder my movement or hurt. Thanks a lot for your videos in general and thanks for taking your time to read and answer my comment!

[@D4NKN4]

Welcome Back! Noticed you increased video production and changed your website around for better UI + the Tool (which I came across while looking at your workout blogs)! Insane progress! Side note (after watching the video), seems to me I have IITP due to a 6 month old A4 tear. However, usually after proper finger warmup, the pain disappears and I've stopped taping at month 4. Now at month 6, re-introduced block pulls and was wondering if I could do them prior or after a climbing session? Also, could you precise an estimate for each phase/stage of recovery? Would you say roughly 4 weeks? or 12?

[@HoopersBeta]

Thanks for noticing all of the changes! That's what's kept us away haha. New tool, no programs, new website, all new updates for 2025! The tool and programs took so much time to properly develop though, hence the lack of videos. But we are psyched on the progress and glad to be back! I generally would do block pulls prior to the climbing session. Block pulls are not just a recovery tool but also a training tool so they could be continued indefinitely. Our Recovery Blueprints do take you step by step through the process though if ever needed.

[@D4NKN4]

@HoopersBeta thank-you for the info! id love a structure template for block pulls. Like should we set aside a day to focus on Max Block Pull and not climb or just regular block pulls will do the trick?

[@dieterschmidt88]

I have been struggling with shoulder impingement problems and can't find a physio in my area that can help. Will you add that to your recovery plans at some point?

[@HoopersBeta]

Sorry to hear that you've been struggling with that! At some point we likely will, yes. But don't wait! That may be far off. Plus, there are lots of climbing physios out there, many which do online consultations (myself included), that can get you going on the right path.

[@Veloxzr]

Does the diagnosis change at all if the lump gets smaller after a warm-up or session?

[@HoopersBeta]

If it's truly changing in size, yes, probably? Because thickening of this type will not change that suddenly, unless the lump stays the same size but the swelling/inflammation around it decreases. If that's the case, then it may still be IIPT. Ultrasound can be used to confirm, if that is available to you.

[@JeremyTheKlimber]

Wow good timing. I think I recently got this for my A2 pulley, and I think I got this for my A4 a few years back. Do you think that having it in a finger makes it more likely that it happens again in the same finger? Also, what kind of recovery plan can be used if I've had the elevation in the A4 pulley for about 2.5 years now? I injured my A4 pulley all the way back then, and I do not think I recovered properly, and my left hand is still weaker and tweaky because of it. I remember I noticed the elevation back then and I still have it now. Regardless, I might need to follow the recovery in this video because of the new injury, but I was wondering how I should deal with the old one as well.

[@HoopersBeta]

Sorry to hear of the recent injury but also good question! I think there are likely other factors that would contribute more to it happening in the same finger rather than IIPT itself. Such as how you're loading your fingers, your training habits, etc. There's a good chance if you start a recovery program for the new injury the training that you do will subsequently help the old issue as well. We have recovery blueprints for this issue of course, or you can DIY with this video outline.

[@JeremyTheKlimber]

@@HoopersBeta Thanks for the quick response! I have a few more questions. Firstly, do you expect the lump/elevation to disappear once it's fully recovered? Is it a good indicator that its fully back or is the elevation going to be there forever, and it's just the pain that's going to be gone? Also, would you recommend doing the rehab work on rest days (currently climbing 4 days a week)? I find it hard to find time to climb in general, and adding additional rehab to the warm up would make it very long.

[@clemlug7337]

Hi, is this the clarius L20? Do you think it is sufficient for finger diagnostics, do you use it on other bodyparts as well and would you recommend it?

[@HoopersBeta]

Correct! That's the Clarius L20. It is sufficient for finger, yes, in fact that particular unit is meant for more superficial surfaces like the finger. It can be used on other body parts as well, but the L15 has more universal practicality.

[@jeffwhite1334]

I think I suffered from this for the last two months. Huge lump at A2 right middle finger. Took a 4 week break, then was able to climb ropes no problem even though the lump was there. Lump went away a month later, but after bouldering I can start to feel it come back.

[@HoopersBeta]

Lump went away completely? Or decreased in size? Could also be a cyst if it went away completely, but if it got smaller and is now getting more irritated / larger again then it might be IIPT still.

[@josephnewman7879]

How to distingguish between IIPT and calluses on the pads?

[@HoopersBeta]

Good question, not sure if I'll do a perfect job describing how to tell with text but I'll take a shot! When palpating with your other hand, try to anchor the skin and move it around. If the lump/bump/thickness stays put beneath the skin, it’s likely pulley thickening. If it moves with the skin, it’s probably just a callus. You’ll also typically see or feel ridged, thick skin in a callus, whereas pulley thickening appears smooth below the skin.

[@santi_super_stunts2573]

Noticed for the Manuel therapy section you did a mix of cross friction parallel friction and circular movements, are any of them more effective, the pulley fibers are perpendicular to the finger flexors, which would be more beneficial to encourage proper remodeling of the tissue in the pulley

[@HoopersBeta]

Good question! I haven't come across any really definitive evidence one way or another, hence the combination of techniques.

[@jhy8191]

You know you are overtraining when you sleep at the gym 😅 Thanks for all the great info!

[@HoopersBeta]

Train. Climb. Sleep at the gym. Repeat. 😂

[@trevortessmar5524]

Have you heard of any injuries where the knuckles are the issue? Sometimes after months and months of training, my knuckles feel like they always have to crack or pop. No pain in my pulleys but my knuckles, mainly the first knuckle closest to my finger tips

[@HoopersBeta]

Absolutely, knuckle issues are definitely common in climbing. The most common issue is Joint Capsulitis/Synovitis.

[@KyleSnelling]

Curious how you would differentiate between this and synovitis/capsulitis?

[@HoopersBeta]

Synovitis/Capsulitis and IIPT have some notable differences in their presentation of symptoms such as location, affect on loading, range of motion, etc. so they are actually quite easily differentiable in my practice. Our tool can also help with that if you need additional information!

[@KyleSnelling]

@ thanks for the response!! I’ll check that out!

[@luke6040]

Does the lump ever go away? I haven’t climbed since September due to an unrelated surgery and still and the painful lump, I notice it when weight training. Was really hoping the time off would resolve it.

[@HoopersBeta]

I often do see it decrease in size over time, especially when it is rehabbed appropriately. As for 100% resolution though, my guess is probably not 100%, but we don't have enough data/research yet to say that with certainty.

[@blackcatlullaby]

Is it related to or can it make a diputran?

[@HoopersBeta]

I haven't seen any research articles on that, but it can be related to "Trigger Finger" if it's in the A1 area.

[@nubroca6371]

How about IIPT that does not cause pain while crimping, or the day thereafter, but ONLY pain by palpation for around 5 minutes after the fingers have been loaded in a crimp position? Have this issue on my A2 pulleys for ring and index fingers on both hands. Should i be worried?

[@HoopersBeta]

Doesn't seem all that worrisome, but of course, can't make a full determination just from that. But in general, it's good to be aware of and if you find that your symptoms worsen you may be trending down rather than up, and may simply need to pay attention to your work to recovery and make sure you aren't overdoing it.

[@JPsk8core]

Is it possible to have tenosynovitis and IIPT together? I've been having what I thought was tenosynovitis for about 2 months now, with a slow but positive recovery (thanks to your video btw). It started with a lot of inflammation, a cyst, and fibrosis around the A2 pulley area, I even got trigger-finger for a few days. All that inflammation has already been reabsorbed, the mobility fully regained and the strength is almost 100% back to normal but I still feel a small bump in my finger and some inflammation reappears if I pull too hard with it.

[@HoopersBeta]

Absolutely, in fact, in the article we wrote to go along with this video (on our website) we point out that IIPT can actually cause tenosynovitis. Sounds like you had a pretty significant case though witha ll of that inflammation and even having trigger-finger! Glad you're feeling back to normal. The bump may certainly persist for a while but can reduce over time (though, it may not ever completely dissipate).

[@CykoruKun]

Ok maybe someone can help me here. I got injured when climbing - to BOTH my middle fingers. Symptoms - reduced mobility in the PIP joint and pain when i squeeze my finger just below PIP joint (closer to the hand). At first the pain was biggest when i pinched my finger below PIP joint on both sides of the finger. Now (2 weeks later) sides barely hurt but it is now more painful when i pinch top and bottom of the finger below PIP Most likely some ligaments were strained by dynamic movement between two deep pockets on a climb. But it just baffles me that i can't find out exactly the injury type.

[@makafuniruni]

I think I maybe got this on my dip joint..

[@HoopersBeta]

Might just be a thickened volar plate instead? On the DIP joint is the A5 pulley which would be less likely to experience this.

[@makafuniruni]

Many thx for the reply! It’s probably something like that, and I also think it’s trauma induced rather than overuse. It’s more like a bruise and only hurts when I apply pressure directly on it and doesn’t seem to effect my climbing performance.

[@BigSources]

8 month hiatus so you had enough time to send v18 i'm guessing?

[@HoopersBeta]

Decided to just skip to V20

[@BigSources]

@HoopersBeta understandable, i also like to take it easy sometimes

[@Snookchaipornvadee]

Thought you guys quit haha

[@danielbeall7725]

Just a hiatus 😂 Hoping to be back in force this year! 🤞🏻

[@HoopersBeta]

Haha sorry for making you think that! In fact, we were grinding away harder than ever trying to get these tools out for climbers :) But we are psyched to be back, and sorry for the long hiatus!

[@derekhackert4585]

We r so back 😮

[@HoopersBeta]

Let's gooo!

[@FilipAllberg]

You've been missed!

[@HoopersBeta]

We've missed posting!! That tool took so much time to develop haha but we are psyched to be back!

[@FilipAllberg]

@@HoopersBeta I must be out of the loop - what tool have you built? :D

[@jettrazek9391]

IS THIS WHY MY FINGY HURTS?!?!

[@HoopersBeta]

Could be! Give it a full watch and use the tool to help figure it out! :)

[@jettrazek9391]

@@HoopersBetaafter watching the whole video, in my expert opinion as a 19 year old with no medical schooling this is why my fingy hurts.

[@mariahsmith5751]

Can you guys do something on pinky pulley injuries? I’ve now injured both and have realized how rare this is because there is no information on how to rehab and prevent! Seems tricky because the pinky is engaged different than the other commonly injured fingers. ‼️🫣

[@HoopersBeta]

We have Recovery Blueprints for the pinky and pulley injuries :) No videos for those little fingers yet, but we do have recovery programs!

[@mariahsmith5751]

@@HoopersBeta heading there now!

[@matiashall1758]

Welcome back!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you! Very happy to be back.

[@matiashall1758]

@@HoopersBeta And with a banger of a video! I was struggling with this about a year ago. As it was hard to find any info online, and my doctor wasn't much help, I stuck to rest -> submax hangs -> low intensity climbing/different style/technique. My recovery was steady in the beginning but stalled at the later stages. Sure I could have used your video back then or going forward!

[@eliturner5746]

Welcome back!

[@HoopersBeta]

Thank you! Excited to be back :)