For more info (like sets and reps for treatment), see the full write-up here: www.hoopersbeta.com/library/a2-pulley-manual-for-climbers
@gmanojyadav894 жыл бұрын
Keep up the good work guys
@reigneduardo67323 жыл бұрын
instablaster
@willmurrin93442 жыл бұрын
This channel is full of the best climbing videos on the internet. Thank you for all the hard work you clearly put into these. I'll buy a shirt to support you all!
@HoopersBeta2 жыл бұрын
@@willmurrin9344 thank you for the support!
@UrsantaHoHoHo Жыл бұрын
hi there, how's it going? Could you explain why I popped my A3 pulley today during a 3finger open drag side pull? it wasn't a crimp at all!! i specifically did a drag to minimize the risk, but it happened anyways. Please provide insights to this question for me, thank you so much.
@jamesfeindt58823 жыл бұрын
This is one of, if not the most helpful videos I’ve ever watched on KZbin. THANK YOU!!!
@m.droberts52062 жыл бұрын
Ditto that
@dflyindutchman1 Жыл бұрын
For sure! Well done!
@theDomCorporation4 жыл бұрын
I know people constantly say it but you deserve so much more recognition.. Such regular high quality content should have way more views!
@bboyHarrypotter4 жыл бұрын
dude you make really high quality videos. this is awesome
@iaml43882 жыл бұрын
Hey Dr Hoops, I think I just experienced my first A2 pulley injury and I just wanted to thank you for providing this outstanding level of climber specific information. You guys are doing an amazing job and really helping out everyone in the community. Hugs your way
@HoopersBeta2 жыл бұрын
Thank you for the comment! Sorry to hear about your injury but I hope this information helps you in your recovery!
@ThundersLeague4 жыл бұрын
Please say/overlay the measurements in kgs also.
@HoopersBeta4 жыл бұрын
You're absolutely right! Will start doing that in future videos. Thanks for catching us there.
@MrKittiemoo3 жыл бұрын
This video was a good wake up call for me to be patient with my strain. Fingers take a long time to build strength and that’s something I don’t like to believe 😂. It is good to have an in depth explanation/plan on what I can do to get back to full strength safely and effectively!
@HoopersBeta3 жыл бұрын
Awesome! Yes, one of the most challenging components of training is exactly that: patience. The body takes much more time than the mind wants to allow it :) Stay strong, stay safe, and happy climbing!
@shanedubbs48309 ай бұрын
I have heard pops a couple times and was always worried about injury, always heard it was indicative of a pully tear. glad to hear it can be like cracking your knuckles.
@adrianodesouza41292 жыл бұрын
Popped a pulley yesterday, this video is a lifesaver, not just with the gold mine of information but also the reassurance that I can overcome this injury! Makes me proud to support the channel with my membership! ♥️
@FancyWafflesFTW4 жыл бұрын
Thanks Jason and Emile for such an in-depth video!
@Life4Jump3 жыл бұрын
Dr.Hooper , I wish i found this video a few months ago when i suffered my first climbing injury . After watching the whole thing and some other videos of you I feel so much wiser and I got so much more understanding of the whole thing . I want to thank you so much for putting tons of work and effort to create high-quality content and generally sharing your knowledge with us !!
@stu1wyatt4 ай бұрын
This is brilliant content , started climbing 4 months back and just had two horrible pops in my fingers when doing a tougher climb. I've gone from knowing literally nothing about fingers to knowing what an A2 pulley injury is and how to deal with. Thanks again
@HoopersBeta4 ай бұрын
Sorry to hear about the injuries! Glad you found this video useful, though!
@robertdavis1783 Жыл бұрын
Did a less-than-controlled dynamic grab to a crimp and heard a quiet little “pop” on my left ring finger yesterday. Time for rehab! Luckily it seems on the mild strain side, but will be extra carefully following the schedule laid out here. One thing I’m surprised no one ever mentions: one arm climb training! I occasionally do this even when I feel normal, as it gives you an opportunity to laser in on precise footwork and balancey, slabby problems. Pretty much rockets me down to the easiest, lowest boulders in the gym, but it sure beats not going at all!
@killyourself2times2 жыл бұрын
Im shocked about the content of this video! This is freaking amazing man! THANK YOU VERY MUCH FOR THIS EFFORT :D
@HoopersBeta2 жыл бұрын
Our pleasure! Thanks for the support.
@REstrACIA11 ай бұрын
Extremely helpful information. I saw an Orthopedic Hand Surgeon who is also a Professor of Orthopedic Surgery. They were genuinely impressed with how accurately I understood the injury and the healing process.
@SirCharcoal4 жыл бұрын
This is the most enlightening thing I've seen on pulley injuries ever! Thank you so much for doing this. I've had a tender A2 pulley for about 8 months, and it's only gotten better during lockdown because my (board) climbing is much more controlled and volume much lower I've also started stretching my inflexible wrists. Which I imagine is stretching my FDP tendons now I look at your video, and helping massively with blood flow (fingers turn red afterwards) by counteracting my suspected shortened FDP.
@HoopersBeta4 жыл бұрын
This is awesome! Glad you found it useful. Have you checked out our other video on forearm stretching to make sure you're getting everything covered?
@SirCharcoal4 жыл бұрын
@@HoopersBeta I'll check it out!
@verbalwound58742 жыл бұрын
Hi Dr.Hooper, I'm just leaving this comment to tell you how much I appreciate these videos. I'm just a student who's mad into climbing and I can't afford to go see a doctor every time I did something stupid on the wall and hurt my fingers, not to mention due to rock climbing being a "less popular" sport in my country, climbing-related injuries are rare and afaik there are no specialist doctors who seem to know how exactly to treat these very specific injuries! Your videos are a godsend in my climbing journey and I wouldn't have been able to enjoy this sport as much as I do without them. Just last week I had a pulley injury and I did a lot of reading online but was still half confused about my injury until I came across your video, you have done a marvelous job from explaining the bone structure to showing how to diagnose the severity of the injury, I am confident on my injury level and have a recovery plan in mind after finishing your video. Seriously, what you provide even money won't buy me where I am from. Once again, thank you for these videos. I hope to be able to show some support to you by purchasing your merch!
@HoopersBeta2 жыл бұрын
Thanks so much for the kind words. Glad to be of service!
@natehall8837 Жыл бұрын
PT here who is just getting into climbing, coming from the jiujitsu world. Can already tell that I'm gonna love your videos!
@mediapixelfangirl51652 жыл бұрын
I’m mad this video didn’t exist 3 years ago when I initially injured my A2. Good thing it’s here now for the A2, A5, FDP injuries 🥴
@melvinchua56833 жыл бұрын
hey man, just wanna say thank you for producing such a video for us climbers. Its really informative and answered so many burning questions I've been trying to ask but got vague to no answers from. Hope to recover soon and get back climbing :)
@HoopersBeta3 жыл бұрын
Absolutely! Thanks for your kind words. Hope you can get back to climber quickly!
@DorangeArnaud3 жыл бұрын
I clearly needed that video 9months ago, complete and clear informations !
@alexpetrov132 жыл бұрын
I had some A2 pulley injuries on 4 of my fingers so far and I remember watching you giving advice to the geek climber. Especially the farmer weighted crimps. Low intensity higher volume every day, just to keep that blood flow and stimulus. Also H-taping while climbing. And I had great success. I kept climbing, taping, doing the farmer weighted crimps every day when not climbing and my fingers healed without having to stop climbing. I know it's a totaly personal experience but man, now that's always my go to method of finger rehab. It's amazing how well it works for me. Thank you. Your advice is much appreciated.
@HoopersBeta2 жыл бұрын
So glad to hear it worked for you! Thanks for the support :)
@Betaghost1 Жыл бұрын
And two yers later after the last finger injury I'm back to this video again. Thank you guys for this priceless information ❤
@tylerheitmann17583 жыл бұрын
best summary i've seen, answered all of my questions
@vanillavonchivalry66573 жыл бұрын
Keep these videos coming and this channel is going to take off big time.
@GeremiaGerosa2 жыл бұрын
Amazing content. I was so scared and disoriented at first when this happened to me. I'm so glad I found this!!!
@Scbaman1204 ай бұрын
Got back from my MRI results this morning. Talking with a friend about my partial A2 tear they sent me this video. I have now been to the doctor 3 times and received little to no information compared to this video. Honestly, the doctor should’ve just had me watch this video.
@HoopersBeta4 ай бұрын
Sorry to hear about your injury and experiences but I am happy that this video has helped!
@Rickshaw_Bohammer2 жыл бұрын
I loaded my R middle and ring finger too much. A deep cross over to the left landing those two R fingers in an open position gave me a sharp pain (perhaps a mild pop, music was playing loud) and a short one foot fall to the ground on a 45 board. Left me with pain/soreness in the palm below the affected fingers, mostly ring, down to the ulnar attachment to my wrist area. Thanks for the video, as I self diagnosed a mild strain of the FDP!
@HoopersBeta2 жыл бұрын
Sorry to hear of your injury but happy that this vid was helpful! Hoping you recover well!
@jibson22 жыл бұрын
best content on youtube for pulley injuries
@omjingo3 жыл бұрын
Im a CHT and really love your approach to pulley injuries especially for climbers. Most climbers are a bit more eager to return to climbing after an injury and really need a good compromise between getting that climbing itch taken care of as well as good quality healing. Nice Job and thank you for this!
@HoopersBeta3 жыл бұрын
CHT's are great! I'm fortunate to get to speak with a couple of them all week :) Appreciate your feedback.
@jasonalbino56453 ай бұрын
Just a fantastic video - thank you so much for the thoughtful breakdown!
@HoopersBeta3 ай бұрын
Glad it was helpful! Thanks for sharing the kind words.
@DavidMartinBouldering3 жыл бұрын
The self-assessment part was super helpful. Seems like I have a A2 or A3 strain/partial tear. Thank you so much for this amazing information 🙏
@alastor03253 жыл бұрын
the best video about a2 pulley I've ever watched, thank you so much!
@Rex1994ify Жыл бұрын
THANK YOU. Im a physiotherapist from spain who started to climbing couple months ago, and now i’ve realized i love this sport. So I decided to investigate by myself about what is the scientific evidence of climbing in internet (pubmed and all that stuff) and i found this video and this channel, i can only say WOW. THANK YOU VERY MUCH, this is an awesome content, i’ve learned a lot in only 40 minutes. So again, thank you so much,
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Thanks so much, we very much appreciate the support! Makes all the hard work worth it :) Hope our other videos provide similar value to you!
@harrydonaldson72952 жыл бұрын
As a physiotherapy student this information was a brilliant resource to sum up pulley injuries, thanks.
@bartd85162 жыл бұрын
Bouldering is becoming very popular especially here in The Netherlands. This video is super helpfull, thanks! From my unfortunate experience after full pulley A2 rupture: don’t (H) tape fingers that are not injured in order to prevent pulley injury! Ive been H taping my weak right middle finger, actually keeping it weak and had a pulley sprain on that taped finger. Have fun bouldering guys and be safe!
@masonh50773 жыл бұрын
I recently experienced a finger injury but could not place where or what hurt exactly. I realized this was because I had no real understanding of the structures of the hand, but now that I've watched this I think it was most likely a strain of the A3 and with that in mind have been able to single the pain down to that area. This video has helped a lot!
@HoopersBeta3 жыл бұрын
Awesome! Glad it was helpful. Thanks for sharing.
@maxidlab2 жыл бұрын
Excellent video. Systematic approach. From someone who's had (and has a new) A2 pulley injury + is a physician = this video is top tier.
@HoopersBeta2 жыл бұрын
Thank you! Best of luck with the rehab
@lucafrascino36834 жыл бұрын
MAAAN !! I was searching about this injury like 2 weeks ago !! I searched a lot about this .... I am feeling a minor pain exactly at the A2 pulley location after grabbing something with too much strenght ! It has NO swelling, and I think I am probably at the begining of a partial rupture process ... I'`m doing ice and I'm also using a tape to avoid the flexion of the finger . It is really frustrating having this injury because it seems it never recovers (but I think I will get better at some point).. And the last time I climbed was 3 months ago .... The problem is that these structures (pulleys, ligaments) dont have a good regeneration capacity, which is the BIG problem and also the main reason why you have to be so careful when treating this type of lesion . if you suspect that you have a pulley injury like this, REST ! Don't put force at the finger !! It's like I always say , ''it takes 1 second to have an injury, and 1 year to recover from it'. Thanks for the videos bro ! You're a great professional !
@HoopersBeta4 жыл бұрын
Thanks for supporting the channel and I'm glad you enjoy the videos! Yes, connective tissue is waayyy slower to recover. Have patience is key! But key into the "retraining" section so you can see how safely loading the tissue can speed if your healing time! Cheers
@fabiopalma4429 Жыл бұрын
This is exactly what I was needing! Can't remember the last time I took so many printscreens of a video 😅
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
haha :) happy that you found it to be helpful!
@Xavier-xb7is3 жыл бұрын
This is so fucking valuable, what a charming man this guy
@ethanmahc4 жыл бұрын
Awesome. Will be recommending this video to my friends.
@dave_vanvliet3 жыл бұрын
Great video! So many questions I've had were just answered.
@JoseReyes-xy2uf2 жыл бұрын
This video should have more views ! Very informational ! Thank you ! Subscribed !
@HoopersBeta2 жыл бұрын
Thank you! We appreciate the support
@gabrielcamacho28624 жыл бұрын
This was great information. Keep the good work.
@PeteD2 жыл бұрын
The foreword on the pop was very helpful. Currently trying to deal with an a2 injury after hearing a pop on the wall - no swelling or bowstringing that I can discern, and no meaningful limit to my range of motion. So I'm suspecting and hoping its a partial or strain, but that pop will haunt me even if it was a joint.
@HoopersBeta2 жыл бұрын
It's one of the scariest sounds a climber can face for sure! Glad you were able to follow those tests and hopefully, as you said, it's just a strain or partial! Best of luck in your healthy recovery.
@stretch83906 ай бұрын
Honestly so helpful.
@HoopersBeta6 ай бұрын
Awesome! Glad to hear that.
@samuelalmeida9953 жыл бұрын
awesome content, thanks! Im facing a A2 injury
@GranZebru4 жыл бұрын
Great video as usual! I like how it's structured and both timestamps and the article are really useful. What about using the rice bucket to speed up the healing process?
@HoopersBeta4 жыл бұрын
Yeah the timestamps are super helpful! Glad you found the video to be useful. Rice bucket in which sense? For active range of motion?
@GranZebru4 жыл бұрын
@@HoopersBeta Yes exactly, range of motion and improved blood flow. I've seen a lot of videos in which this technique is advised also for strength training. Not sure if it's effective though.
@HoopersBeta4 жыл бұрын
It can be used as an early intervention as it provides a light amount of resistance, such as moving through water, and it would increased blood flow. But so does just squeezing your hand and opening it :) I don't find it to be as efficient because it's not as portable and easy to use as well. I prefer using puddy or other items you can take with you / do in the car. Part of effective rehab is efficient rehab. If it is a task to do it, people are less likely to do so. In summary, yeah you can totally utilize it but it's not my preferred method. *edit* sorry for the late response, sometimes once I have responded to the initial question it doesn't give me a notification the same way for follow ups.
@GranZebru4 жыл бұрын
@@HoopersBeta Thanks for the explanation!
@Brave_English3 ай бұрын
@@HoopersBeta Mixing and kneading bread dough could be another great method 😄 I'm an avid bread baker, and, now that I think of it, it's probably supported my overall hand and tendon health. I'll admit I'm at a point that I should be more active in training my tendon strength, but until now, I hadn't had any finger injuries over 9 years of recreational climbing!
@Brave_English3 ай бұрын
Thanks for the great and very in-depth video! I love your channel. I have one question/ suggestion. Because you address the role of hormones in relation to healing, could you address how the female hormone cycle impact healing? I know that most of your audience is probably men, but there's still many female climbers, and it'd be nice to know which of the scientific studies you cite consider how female bodies work. Considering the way scientific/medical research typically overlooks that our bodies work differently in many ways (beyond just reproduction) I'd like to learn more about how this affects climbing-specific training and injury prevention. From what I've learned, I'm guessing that there are a few weeks when the hormones in female bodies support faster healing, but I'm not sure. Any thoughts? Thanks again for the phenomenal content you consistently put out! :)
@joji_okami Жыл бұрын
I laughed hard at the camera panning away when you started talking about diet and sleep haha
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Two very volatile factors in many peoples lives :) hah
@GiorgosPlanar2 жыл бұрын
This is great. Thank you so much for the hard work and love put in this video. I am already a subscriber but what brought me to the specific video is a middle finger pulley injury I suffered exactly one month ago. A long covid quarantine prevented me from having it properly evaluated by a professional but I am 99% sure it is a A2 pulley because i had a similar injury in the past (same finger-other hand) plus i have characteristic tenderness in the base of the finger, and pain whiile crimping which has gradually improved from really bad to fairly ok. But the WEIRD thing with this injury is that swelling has not imporved in a month. Seriously the finger is still as swollen as on day 1 and every morning it feels that it is going to burst. I am religiously performing my gliders, pen rolles and use an accupuncture massage ring since week 2 but failed to see any improvement. I am finally having an ultrasound in two days but the thing is getting on my morale. Any insights would be greatly appreciated. Thanks again!
@avnerduchovni66753 жыл бұрын
Thank you SO much. I really like your videos. You are great. Informative, focused, high quality, awkward, but not too awkward. Just how I like it. In this video you helped me with promoting my health. I was able to diagnose myself, and make an appointment to a professional to make sure I was right. Thanks!
@toastmartin4 жыл бұрын
Wow this is the best Video ever! Love the depth and the way of your explanations. Thank you so much.
@MP-bx3uj4 ай бұрын
Ouch, my finger hurts…..better go see what Dr Hooper has to say about it ❤
@HoopersBeta4 ай бұрын
Happy to help!
@seeingshapesfilms27064 жыл бұрын
Thank you! This was incredibly useful and well made 👊🏼🤙🏼
@JTurfie4 жыл бұрын
Wow, this is amazing content! Keep up the good work!
@Randomize123456662 жыл бұрын
Thank you so much for the video, very thorough and explains a lot . Thankfully I'm probably only at the pulley strain stage. and I definitely wrote down alot watching this
@HoopersBeta2 жыл бұрын
Good! Glad it was helpful :)
@Randomize123456662 жыл бұрын
@@HoopersBeta omg are you kidding, I found out your channel just yesterday and I have no idea how I've been climbing for 6 years without knowing it before, so underrated, entertaining and knowledgeful. Thank you so much for the content
@sagiganz4 жыл бұрын
Where have you been three months ago?! Tnx! hopefully wont ever need this valuable information , except for the prevention part - that one is key for me.
@HoopersBeta4 жыл бұрын
Haha we'll try to time it better next time. Agreed, proper prevention is so important!!
@gsav811 Жыл бұрын
Incredibly helpful! Thanks a lot!!!!
@1nickschannel3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for saving my season
@martinr1133 жыл бұрын
Great video! I'm happy to have learned I have just a pulley strain and nothing more serious :) As an addition to prevention, from my recent personal experience, I should have paid attention to how much I crimp during climbing and adjusted other training accordingly. Normally, I'm doing fine with bouldering on Saturdays and hangboard training on Mondays, but two weeks ago I worked on two projects including fairly bad right hand crimps, so that the load from the Monday session was probably too much. The lesson I learned is that I should reduce crimp training (and go to slopers/open hand hangs instead) in training sessions that follow climbing days with highly above-average crimping, and also not work crimpy projects on consecutive days if they're close to my limit.
@HoopersBeta3 жыл бұрын
This is a great adjustment! That's something we could all be aware of, yet it is a struggle. It's hard to adjust your routine when you want to stick with it, but like you mentioned, it's important to make those adjustments especially after a day that is heavy on that particular style. Great comment!
@Cullzor3 жыл бұрын
Really fantastic content, thank you! I recently noticed some persistent tenderness in my ring finger A3 pulley from overtraining. After watching this I think its safe to say I have a mild strain. All this insight will be super helpful in coming up with a recovery/retraining program. Subscribed!
@allezvenga76172 жыл бұрын
Thanks for your detailed information and sharing
@goosjer3 жыл бұрын
I am pretty sure that I have an A2 pulley strain on my ring finger, but have been climbing with it for a month. It doesn’t hurt when I’m warmed up, but when im off the wall and grab something very simple like a towel than I can suddenly feel it. After this video I decided to take at least a week off, and to return only with light climbing for a few weeks.
@HoopersBeta3 жыл бұрын
Hopefully you can use some of the tools to retrain/test yourself and heal up nicely! Thanks for watching/commenting.
@heloisechung Жыл бұрын
This was so thorough and educational. Thank you! And another reminder for better sleep habits, lol
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Thanks for the kind comment! Glad you found it to be helpful.
@fabianodedo3 жыл бұрын
Amazing content! Thank you!
@isaacg31752 жыл бұрын
Thanks for the informative video. My left ring finger had it bad on a pocket hold going left on an overhang. I wasn't warmed up and "pop." I couldn't climb without some kind of pain, but not enough to stop me from going. I did some finger exercise, and has helped me recover.
@m.droberts52062 жыл бұрын
Thank you. A no bullshit explanation that I wish I'd received at hospital, ( a2 rupture lifting log burning stove with finger tips) Answered all the questions I didn't know needed asking. Thank you.
@yflee6038 Жыл бұрын
The quality of this video is incredible, although is a bit long :p
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Hah that's fair. It's in depth though at least :)
@ake_lindblom2 жыл бұрын
Brilliant video, thank you very much!
@alessandrovillanueva54984 жыл бұрын
Hey! I think your videos are great and they helped me a lot to avoid injuries and to treat elbow and wrist pain. There are many videos on youtube about that but it s quiete impossible to find videos about knie injuries related to climb. I started to have some pain in my knie when i heel hook it s interesting because i can drop knie easily with no pain but by heel hook it s quiete painful. Maybe could you do a video about that? The only interesting video that i ve found on youtube is called "patterns of knie injuring among bouldering and rock climbing". It would be great if you could talk about that and how to avoid it. Cheers
@HoopersBeta4 жыл бұрын
Knee related pain as a general inquiry is tough because the location of the pain matters, as does the activity. As you mention heel hooks vs drop knee. Two very different activities which don't have a direct correlation to each other. What you are describing, though, would likely be an issue we are just about to cover! We are making a super sweet video on hamstrings and heel hooking so be on the lookout for that soon!
@alessandrovillanueva54984 жыл бұрын
@@HoopersBeta can t wait to see it ^^
@kamilcebula66703 жыл бұрын
This video is so informative. Thank you for this!
@NestorMandela3 жыл бұрын
ok, this was suuuuper informative. Thanks a slot!
@OutdoorAnthony Жыл бұрын
so I am a recurring athlete on American ninja Warrior, and I just had a big pulley strain about a month and a half before competing. I’m gonna try all these exercises and see if it will heal in time. Granted, literally everything on the show is going to be a big dynamic movement. Luckily, they stray away from crimps though
@simmions1Ай бұрын
Awesome video, I was actually researching specialist in my area before I saw this video and you came up. What does it mean if I have no swelling or palpitation pain but have range of motion and tissue load fingers extended pain
@benjaminkoch92613 ай бұрын
There is still a camp that thinks an pulley grows back together scarred but becomes more flexible and then those who say it's gone is gone and nothing similar comes back. Can some clarity be created?
@Josh_A_Lu Жыл бұрын
Curious about the timeframing for testing: Are these results for testing immediately after injury, or is it okay to do these tests and judge accurately 1-3 days later. For me if i had done the tests the same day it would've for sure been a partial tear, but a few days later it feels not super painful and by the chart provided it could be a strain
@chihuahuels2 жыл бұрын
Man this content is amazing! Thanks a lot
@SuperXicor Жыл бұрын
Very good and informative video, Thank you
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Our pleasure!
@davisreynaud12872 жыл бұрын
Really appreciate this video! I just got into climbing and my (ego)muscle is much more stubborn than my pulleys. Now my ring finger is sore as hell under load and I haven’t climbed for over a week. Rehab time
@313rcamp3 жыл бұрын
Hot damn, this was such a helpful video. Thank you all for the work you put into this!!
@guilhermefialho57184 жыл бұрын
Amazing video!! It would be cool if you make a video about FDP tendon injuries now. During the Testing I might have found something wrong there. Thank you for the content and channel.
@HoopersBeta4 жыл бұрын
Great idea for a follow up! Thanks for subscribing and supporting our channel!
@spacescienceguy3 жыл бұрын
Thanks for this! I just had my first minor finger injury (looks like an A2 pulley strain on my ring finger) while working on my project which was really frustrating. It was two days ago and the pain (minor and only when I flex my hand) seems to have peaked. I'm going to continue to rest it and ease into climbing again next week using H-tape.
@kosnk10 ай бұрын
Thank you for this video!
@ethanzelenjak28893 жыл бұрын
This content is amazing
@PaNoBiNo2 жыл бұрын
Great video! Thank you so much!!
@pedrom.309 Жыл бұрын
thanks, what a important content!
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Our pleasure!
@b4ddie Жыл бұрын
You are a godsent. Thank you.
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Our pleasure!
@jedi_mapperp40733 жыл бұрын
Outstanding content. My middle finger is bad sprain or partial tear, based on your chart. But I have more swelling and moderate stiffening.
@robbielevi8225 Жыл бұрын
Brilliant video
@sam.hockley3 жыл бұрын
Awesome video, thank you! With farmer crimps, what is the ideal frequency to aim for when starting that phase of recovery? Should this be a daily set (or more), or would it be advisable to just do these 2-3 times a week interspersed with palm crimps/tendon glides?
@VDB4204 жыл бұрын
Great info. Thank you for the effort!
@nonojnet10 ай бұрын
Amazing content! Thanks a lot.
@HoopersBeta10 ай бұрын
Our pleasure!
@grshindig2 жыл бұрын
Hello! I think you should included the correct way to immobilize the finger...angle etc...
@josephmarrow55982 жыл бұрын
Could you go more in depth in avoiding pulley issues for new climbers?
@savoyclimber25753 жыл бұрын
Hi Dr Hooper, This video is very interesting, it helps a lot to understand many things. Thanks ! I have a personal question, after 3 weeks without climbing, I climbed 2 times with one day rest between that 2 sessions, lead climbing, with good warmup I think :). After the second session, the day after, I feel a little bit of pain on the A2 pulleyside (only on one side close to the palm) Then, I did bouldering, I climbed hard (crimps, slopers...) without pain, but when I press my finger I feel a little bit of pain. I did the tests you mentionned and the only pain I feel is when I press on it. What do you think about that ?
@jeffmiller8462 Жыл бұрын
This video has a lot of information, thank you! I had some questions about A1 pulley injuries on your thumb. I have one, and I think it might be a full rupture. I'm not sure (I think I can feel and move the tendon where the pulley should be). Would you recommend the same timelines and training routines as the A2 finger pulley rupture? Would you think I would be safe to continue to with large muscle group exercises? Is there any taping that could help reduce the stress on the A1 pulley in the thumb? In your video on trigger finger, you showed a brace for A1 finger pulleys. Would something like that work for this injury? I'm also wondering if it would be ill advised to climb with such a brace. Haha. Or, hangboard with a brace on the A1 thumb pulley. I don't know if it would put stress to the injured area. Thanks so much!
@petrm.7148 Жыл бұрын
Thanks for an in depth guide on how to treat this injury. There is one information missing though, what is a puddy crimp?
@HoopersBeta Жыл бұрын
Good question! It's pretty simple. Acquire some therapy puddy and work through some crimp positions with the gentle resistance of the puddy.
@petrm.7148 Жыл бұрын
@@HoopersBeta You mean a putty right? The squishy paste kids play with, but some special kind :)