The Day Games Workshop Lost the 3D Printing War

[@DurginPaintForgeMiniatures]

I'm happy to see one of my kits in your video, what a honor! Thank you, and congrats for the awesome paintjob!

[@ZedLeppelin1989]

Are you tagged in the description or am I being blind?

[@dpedreno]

@@ZedLeppelin1989 no tag, I searched for it myself XD. Or maybe we’re going blind together.

[@justinkotrba2197]

Durgin Paint forge please make more painting videos if you have the time. Your painting skill is amazing!

[@radekpazdera4560]

@@ZedLeppelin1989 can't see description mention however name is mentioned around 11:40 :)

[@georgewhanford4421]

Thrilled to see your models here

[@TheVar666]

I would argue one of the major barriers is the resin itself, the VOCs and possible toxicity of the resin will always be a barrier to people having one in their homes, especially with pets or children. More so than the models or the ease of setting up the printer at least

[@MrBlackgobbo]

There is acrylic resin if you want to, in addition it does not smell.

[@MCXL1140]

It really depends but that is sometimes a hurdle yeah

[@svelle37]

@@MrBlackgobbo Odorless doesn't mean hazardless.

[@FOB777]

It’s exactly why I don’t have one. I have the space and the money, just not the environment to do it hazard less. Too many pets and people in the house. It sucks cuz I have great ideas for a Sons of Horus army that a bunch of 3D printed bits would make possible!

[@SomeGuyAsWell]

That is really the main reason I haven't gotten a printer. If I could setup in a shed, have proper ventilation, or know the resin is safe I would have bought one years ago. The printers are only getting better and cheaper. Plastic printers are a little better with fumes but can still have some concerns. There is a lot of stuff like that in the maker or hobby space in general. I will say a lot of people don't think or know about the VOC concerns so probably won't hold back sales. And companies are developing less smelly resins, although not necessarily safer resins.

[@HasteHobbies]

Consider wearing gloves when touching uncured prints. That is still uncured resin and it can enter thru skin contact.

[@camojoe83]

Do you own a microwave? It poisons your food worse than those prints can affect you ever time you heat something in a container that's not glass.

[@JohnSmith-rt5yq]

Any studies that indicate this? Most seem to indicate that only the monomers are dangerous and once cured, those are no longer present.

[@carlstanford7607]

Yup

[@scottyboy6269]

Lol if you have uncured resin on your print you failed washing it. If you clean them properly they will look flawless once dry.

[@TheRaretunes]

@@scottyboy6269 yeah but to wash it you have to touch it, genius

[@SinPhi666]

Really need more emphasis on safety. Any time you are in the same room as open resin (yes in the printer counts) you need to be wearing a respirator with VOC cartridges. The room should also be constantly vented, filtering even with active charcoal is not enough. Even cured resin should be handled with gloves until primed. If you are sanding or cutting mask up again. People are playing with fire, resin health risks are incredibly serrious

[@jpee300]

This! Nothing but facts in this comment. @Ninjon: given your role model status in the hobby this cannot be underestimated. Even with proper safety equipment allergic build up remains a serious risk in the hobby.

[@Shrouded_reaper]

If you have your printer in a box that vents out a window there is no risk at all while printing.

[@mikewicked.x]

Several Ex-Citadel sculptors have gone out on their own - some are old-school in the techniques (like Trish Carden/Footsore Miniatures) but some have transitioned to digital/STLs, like Bob Naismith. More recently, Stephen May left Citadel/Forgeworld and started Dead Earth Miniatures. He was mostly Necromunda focussed, and he has kept that aesthetic. There are probably others.

[@Invaderzim2004]

The Perry Brothers, the OG sculptors of Citadel.

[@mikewicked.x]

@@Invaderzim2004 can't believe I forgot them... #facepalm

[@AllGodsDue]

One thing I feel like Ninjon completely missed in his assessment of gw's grasp over the industry, most of us simply love warhammer. These random sculptors online may make cool sculpts, but they don't mean anything to me. They may as well be random artwork from a website like Deviantart. Pretty to look at, but I personally don't find it interesting. I'm interested in the warhammer universe, it's been my favorite fantasy/science fiction universe since I was a kid, and at 33 years of age that still holds true. I support gw despite their insane greed because I love warhammer and I want warhammer to continue being around. Random, pretty sculpts online just don't have that level of interest and emotional investment for me.

[@LunarHavoc]

A playing card works but using a silicone spatula for stirring resin was a game changer for me, especially with resins that separate a lot.

[@nobody342]

SILICONE SPATULA FROM THE DOLLAR STORE!!!!! your absolutely right!! and the resin drains off of them!!!

[@dennisbourg5393]

Grab some silicone tongs while you’re at it, and maybe a silicone mat too

[@B4MBI72]

Silicone spatula is a must IMO, great for stirring resin and draining the vat if you ever need to.

[@johannisson77]

Pleas @Ninjon don't handle uncured resin bits with bare hands, like when you removed them from supports. Even if they are cleaned and you don't see any resin on them, the IPA have resin still in it. Wait until they have been in the curing chamber before removing gloves. Its is allergenic so maybe no reaction the first 50 times but then allergies can start to develop.

[@ThisisCitrus]

The man licks his paint brushes with paint on them, I doubt he cares even if it is dangerous.

[@Cj2329]

there's a difference between acrylic paints designed to be non toxic because kids handle them and freakin reasin@@ThisisCitrus

[@fatesrequiem]

@@ThisisCitrushe also airbrushes and apparently prints in a room with no ventilation, using only a air purifier…which doesn’t really eliminate tvocs, just the smell.

[@ThisisCitrus]

@@Cj2329 Yep cause non-toxic means it won't hurt you to consume lots of it... You ate crayons and glue as a kid didn't you?

[@carlstanford7607]

Be careful with resin lads

[@adrienandivero9145]

A quick comment here just to say that I've been following various painting mini channels and yours has clearly stepped up in the past year or so. Videos quality, production and painting level have all steadily been improving noticeably. Can only commend the hard work, you are now at the top of my painting youtube daily check. Happy painting!

[@Matthimeo]

My main problem with 3D printing is that I live in a city with crazy property costs and don’t have the space in my house for a full workstation. Really hope we see more maker spaces and libraries with 3D printing options available.

[@AzaMinis]

They take up almost no space. Even with a dedicated wash & cure station, you can fit a 3d printer and wash station in a 1ft x 2ft area.

[@V3ntu97]

You just need a large enough table near a window. Buy a growth tent (it can hold 2/3 printers) and a small fan to vent fumes outside (even 120mm pc fan works).

[@PhthaloGreenskin]

Yea what I do is in my room I put a large long table near a window, a grow tent with a fan and vent the fumes out the window. All of my workstation is on that table. Wash and cure station is all there.

[@ThanksALott]

Look around for a "FabLab". Those are places where you rent out machines or are allowed to use them for being a club member. Many universities have one where don't need to be a student.

[@drachengaming7321]

"Full workstation" ? It takes up about as much space as a small airbrush setup.

[@totallycarbon2106]

I cant believe how irresponsible content creators on youtube are! Cashing in on 3D printer deals while recklessly handling uncured prints, sanding resin without showing appropriate PPE, not talking about the ventialation requirement of 3D printing etc. We are going to have a whole generation of influencers and hobbyists slowly poisoning themselves thanks this cowboy attitude to home 3d printing promoted by inlfuencers who havent been educated on the risks and appropriate risk mitigation!

[@tracerstar]

One thing you said - no GW sculptors have left and gone on their own... There is actually a former GW Forge World sculptor that has a Patreon called Stephen May / DeadEarthMiniatures He started off offering one mini a month, but has expanded it to a couple. He only just recently started, so releases have been patchy, but I think he's hitting his stride now, and he's making some stellar nostalgic Necromunda adjacent sculpts.

[@spadedaman4958]

Got my mars ultra 4. Got it out of the box, calibrated with the sheet. I'm on my second bottle now and had no failures what so ever. It was a breeze.

[@michaelkramer9014]

Resin Printers have mostly passed the birthing pains, We have tried and true resin formulas, incredible resolution screens that are super affordable, outside of user error most machines are going to do what they are designed to out of the box regardless of the brand (Though sticking with the well-known ones is always the safest bet for anyone new to the hobby) I myself have the Mars 4 MAX and am now going through my seventh liter of resin and the only failures I have ever had were 100% my fault.

[@TheTkhhwilliams]

Came here to say the same thing I've had 3 different Elegoo Printers Mars, Mars 2 and Saturn 2. Plug and play. I really feel spoiled

[@topkekbieri]

@@TheTkhhwilliams Can only say the same thing for my Anycubic Photon Mono 4k and Mono X2. Literally the only failed prints I've had in 1 1/2 years of printing where ones where I a) made my own supports / modifed existing ones too much after scaling the model in Lychee or b) where I Iiterally almost knocked over the table the printer was standing on, lmao

[@SamBrownBaudot]

One crucial tip that Jon skipped here, because he's a display painter more than a player: MIX YOUR RESINS! The Phrozen8K resin he recommends is great for capturing detail, but it's brittle. If you actually take an entire army printed with it, you're likely to come back from each game with a broken mini or two. There's a fix: You mix in 25% Impact Onyx resin. This gives your minis enough bend and spring that they won't break during normal play any more than the high impact polystyrene plastics that sprue minis are made from. The Impact resin is STRONG, bendy stuff. You can print whiffle balls with this stuff, and knock them around. But it's expensive and requires the printer be really slowed down for it to harden. The mix of 3 parts 8K resin with 1 part Impact resin gives you the best of both worlds. You DO have to stir it before every print, because it separates like a mofo. You might also have to make your supports SLIGHTLY thicker. The 8K resin is so precise in part because it is so rigid and brittle: It resists bending while it's being printed, so every pixel ends up exactly where you put it. When you mix in a little of the bendy Impact resin, you need thicker supports to hold the mini as firmly. And of course, you'll want to run some exposure tests to find the new settings for your mixed resin. Expect it to take about 50% longer to cure with 25% Impact resin mixed in.

[@SliverCreations]

This so much this. Phrozen will come with a pre mixed version of this in the near future.

[@dpedreno]

The number one reason I don't give myself up to 3D printing is not having anywhere to set it up. Reason number two is knowing this would most likely become a hobby of its own and I have enough of those as it is. Maybe in 10 years or so.

[@mandasity]

@@dpedreno you can go ahead and change 'most likely' into 'most definitely' lol

[@dpedreno]

@@mandasity haha I don’t doubt you. I’ve read about modding communities and whatnot. I think it’s the resin cast from Durgin Paint Forge that also gives me comfort, really great and high detail, a joy to paint. His current KS campaign has both physical and digital bundles and I’m in for the physical models. Gotta start picking up the backlog though, cause I’m pledges for all of them XD

[@joslynjordan3818]

You can add Siraya tech tenacious to your resin also. Adds a lot of flex to the print. All Siraya tech resins are really good.

[@catalin2766]

Found a shop in my country that prints miniatures for 5 times cheaper than GW sells them. I'm not playing warhammer, I'm painting as a hobby so for me it's prefect.

[@garrettvelkjar3136]

This is really the way to do it imo, just to essentially rent printer time and print off a bunch of minis for cheap without having to deal with all the extra work and overhead that comes with your own printer.

[@commentarytalk1446]

Honestly that sounds amazing so long as you can print the exact "sculps" you want for whatever given reason eg painting, game system etc...

[@zaccthirkettle8209]

"prints miniatures for 5 times cheaper than GW sells them." You just described copyright infringement in the most open and shut case to ever case. Get caught stealing GW models or even worse selling stolen sculpts and you can be looking at time and a fine in most EU/US countries.

[@commentarytalk1446]

@@zaccthirkettle8209 It sounds like crime doesn't pay, but it certainly saves!

[@zaccthirkettle8209]

@@commentarytalk1446 I get why people steal food. I even turn a blind eye. This is so far beyond a luxury that it's incredulous and unethical.

[@sirdigsalo1]

I'm sure you're already somewhat aware- But PLEASE if you're going to sand down resin: WET YOUR FILES AND SANDPAPER, resin is carcinogenic so obviously you don't want any particles in the air- so wetting your file or sand paper or even the model itself ensures it sticks to it and doesn't go airborne. Also smaller tip, I heard some people will wash off the models with isopropryl alcohol in multiple vats- so like 3 cups of alcohol, 1. really dirty, sit it for awhile, 2nd kinda dirty, and 3rd last one is cleanest and mostly a precaution. Anyway stay safe, nice vid.

[@hobomasterxxx]

Do you have a source for photo-resin being carcinogenic? I've tried looking into this and all I can find is that it's a respiratory, skin and eye irritant. Some of the polymerisation agents in *some* resins are known to be carcinogenic, but that's when they're uncured.

[@99Plastics]

You're looking at the material in contact with skin, you need carcinogenic database.@@hobomasterxxx

[@JohnSmith-rt5yq]

​@@hobomasterxxxmost of this comes from China, so I doubt we get well designed MSDS from them... So anyone's guess I suppose

[@thrrax]

Sanding cured resin is no more dangerous than sanding plastic, end less dangerous than sanding metal.

[@JohnSmith-rt5yq]

@@thrrax all of those are dangerous to inhale, imo. No solid particulates belong in our lungs...

[@DuncanRhodesDRPA]

That was such a cool video. Great job Ninjon 👍

[@WippleWizzle]

Loot Studios has always blown me away with their themes and attention to detail, especially as a D&D player! Love what they come out with every month

[@dpedreno]

Loot Studios have awesome models, although I’ve left the realistic fantasy aesthetic behind. I’ve found that Durgin Paint Forge or Cobra Mode’s models are more to my taste. I wonder if that has to do with my style of painting…

[@sypher515]

despite their popularity, i think they are not good at all. 28 mm models have weird body scale (mostly too skinny), overwhelmingly high details which are super tiresome to paint, not to mention shamlesly using their community to promote the company without even giving credits to the artist (often using personal photos and comments without consent). also, most latest bundles are just reworked old models. i do wanna mention that their busts and larger models are supreme and fun to paint.

[@W.edgewargames]

Try ArchVillian if you're looking for killer stl files.

[@Darker1208]

you're the first creator I've seen that has actually shared their known working settings. Just wish it was for a Saturn 2. Most (almost all) creators hide their settings like it's Fight Club and stick to coy "you gotta dial in your settings buddy ;) " crap. And yes. I consider the phrase "you gotta dial in your settings" to be the "thin your paints" comment of 3d Printing. Never described how, just do it or leave the hobby.

[@theshawman]

It's "the get good" of the hobby world.

[@privat9605]

Have you checked Lychee Slicer? In the slicer you can configure your printer and resin, and then you'll see configs by other users and a confidence rating on how well it works. That's often an excellent starting point to fine tune (if need be).

[@Darker1208]

@@privat9605 yes. yes I have. It didn't really help.

[@msarek4100]

I'm mainly an elegoo user. Mars 3 Pro settings work for me on Saturn 2. Lychee slicer times can be off, but the prints are spot-on. All my Elegoo fails were always the same issue with the fep so I upgraded to PCS PFA liner and had zero issues since. You should be subbed to Uncle Jessy if you're elegoo by the way

[@Musofox]

The main reason you have to dial in your settings on printers is largely due to resin type and opacity, and inconsistencies in the printers themselves. There are tons of guides on how to dial in your settings out there. And tons of prebuilt settings for various resins on the market. But every printer is different, and thus requires dialing in. What works on my Mono X doesn't work on my Mono X2, even if every other variable is the same. Even the ambient temperature can change your your exposure times and the quality of the print.

[@The1Flying]

May I point you into the direction of Bob Naismith's Patreon? He sculpted a huge swaithe of GW's earlier minis and the Perry Twins (Who did most of TLOTR) also release STLs. GW sculpters are doing this.

[@thomasblennerhassett7223]

Everyone should listen to the point about it not being a company that creates awesome minis, it is the artists and designers that do that and those people are who we should be aiming to support.

[@richardwarbrush3404]

Nobody likes GW. But has every single video be "GW bad"?

[@todders559]

I noticed that too. I don’t get the axe grinding.

[@lanesteele240]

3d printing is a chore. Sometimes i would just rather spend 50 bucks on a kit rather than lug the cancer goo out

[@TEXT_ninjon0_ON..TELE-GRAM]

Hi you won.

[@revylokesh1783]

What I like most about printing is that you can use a first batch of minis to freely try out paint-schemes without fear of wasting money. Once you've found "your" scheme, you just print up another batch to paint correctly, at pretty much no additional cost.

[@VaDeRsAsSiSsIn7]

Artisan Guild is one of my favorite producers of fantasy miniatures. Huge variety, awesome sculpts, and an assortment of simpler as well as highly detailed models.

[@gabojill19]

The quality of their supports is stellar as well. Plus PROPER file organization, others have terrible folder systems or their supports suck

[@Shaun.J.]

Printing & painting minis from Bite The Bullet is always a joy for me! They definitely make their minis with painters in mind.

[@climid]

Bite the bullet has a nice style

[@dpedreno]

Forgot to list Bite the Bullet, I knew it!

[@MaintDocs]

I think the "over-detail" is a perk for most people, and I love it (even if it is more difficult for a skilled painter like you): If you are the *paint it quick and move on type, you can ignore the extra detail.* It doesn't matter that the armor has more details, just hit it all with a metallic and move on with life. If you are the *fast **_results_** type, ink washes are perfect cheat mode.* You can target a few areas for manual extra effort to make the overall effect seem much nicer than it really is on close inspection. If you are the *slow perfectionist but lack artistic-painting skills, the detail gives you the perfectionism without having to mentally create it.* That's a nice de-stresser, as you don't have to worry about coming up with something that doesn't turn out and can just focus on colors and what stylistic technique you want to use. (eg realism gradiented? comic with black outlines? exaggerated lighting/coloring?) I alternate between the fast _results,_ and perfectionist lacking skills painting. For that, I look for models that cut the detail in deep. I play dnd a lot, and it's really a lot nicer to play when the models are easily distinguishable. For that purpose, 1 follow a 3 color rule: unpainted the model looks ok, painted 1 color the model looks slightly worse, painted 2 colors the model looks a lot worse than 1 (but is more distinguishable), and with a 3rd color the model finally starts looking much better than it started. Painting while we play is a focus mechanism for me, so I'll swap out a model mid-play and quickly get the 3 main colors distributed so it looks better and distinguishable. Once most of the players characters are looking better at a table glance, I'll enjoying some detail work or start filling in more of the models. I'll use a wet palate most of the time, and alu foil for the inks or metallics (I should probably get a silicone pop-it tray for those, but alu foil is cheap, on hand, and also a safe place to paint over) PS my favorite way to hold models so far is with "quake hold" museum tack. While painting, I can stick the models at different angles, and for DND I can cut temporary cardboard bases to stick them to. It works so well, you can turn it upside down a do some light shakes without the mini falling off. Tip: Don't try to stick the tack to the model 1st. Work the tack soft, then press on the base/flat piece, lastly stick the model down to it. (holds better and don't risk breaking the model)

[@rodericklenz5030]

I think my comment may have been removed, but it needs to be repeated. One of the most Iconic GW sculptors already does have his own store selling 3d sculpts for printing... Bob Naismith. THE Bob Naismith. The sculptor of the original space marines and terminators. He's independent and sells a whole range of sci-fi sculpts.

[@amygillespie2588]

Moonlight Minis - Christine Van Patten has sculpted some of my most favorite minis from Reaper Minis. She’s now got her own line, and has been known to paint the occasional mini. Usually extremely well painted minis, at that.

[@AdnanCucak]

As much as I love Ninjon, I cant take seriously the opinions expressed praising the Phrozen mini 8K thats SPONSORED by Phrozen. Even if its good, Its still Bias, as much as youtubers assure us they were allowed to say what they wanted. Also, talk about Clickbait in this one...

[@TEXT_ninjon0_ON..TELE-GRAM]

Hi you won.

[@Milkymalk]

8:20 So true. Just knowing you COULD get a replacement or have another go at it makes you so much more confident. That's why when I am coloring a drawing I made, I first scan the lineart. I never had to print it out for a retry, but knowing that if I mess up I won't have to start from scratch takes much pressure off me.

[@ProjectKhopesh]

This is why I've taken to taking photos of my models and testing out some quick color schemes in Affinity Photo before starting painting on models that I can't really afford to mess up. Sure, I can visualize things fairly well, but layers in Affinity/Photoshop are a quick way to test things and get feedback from other people. ...and of course, this feeds well into the 3D print "just do it again" fun.

[@Novum_YT]

Do you not have to include the 'This video includes paid sponsorship' KZbin thing anymore? I just got my first sponsor and I'm honestly curious I thought we had to!

[@dpedreno]

Perfect timing, DPF has a KS campaign going on right now. Great job with the DPF 75mm dwarf! Would love to see you have a go at his Green Knight too. For other 3D minis: Cobra Mode - my second favorite sculptors right after Durgin Paint Forge PreyCollection - cartoons and all things geek related I guess - TMNT models are awesome Lord of the Print - some mind shattering minis with realistic aesthetic Broken Anvil - hit and miss, but when they hit it's a bullseye

[@Xlaminator]

I bought an Elegoo Mars 3 Pro at the beginning of this year as my first printer. It was plug & print for me, the community profile for my resin & printer in Lychee yielded perfect results from the first print on. I did a lot of calibration prints & tests, just to get the same settings as I had from the beginning with the community provided profiles in Lychee. The most important thing imho is that you get a solid workflow and procedures for cleaning & curing that work for you, then it´s no mess and fun, not a chore ;) And btw, I really like the models from OPR, they are great.

[@nathankeene9236]

I've been a supporter of artisan guild for over a year now. I love their models. Also I very quickly had to bookmark this video for reference. I love the way you painted this one.

[@eXileLies]

Apart from an increase in poisonings due to the health hazard of 3D Printing - which is well documented - the one thing that speaks against it is, well, reality. In the last 3-4ish years, 3D printing has not only become more precise but also easier to use. Phrozen and co. prove that. But in the same time-frame Games Workshop has doubled, if not tripled in value. The Convenience & "monkey brain instant reward" of buying Minis, rather than looking for good sculpts, buying sculpts and printing them for a day or two is the thing that makes printing unattractive.

[@magnusmillerwilson]

Great video! The freedom you feel painting something you’ve 3D printed is REAL. It also means I feel 0 trepidation handing one to my 10 year old to try out painting, too, and that’s amazing.

[@guardsmen2945]

Same, it is so freeing and for once I'm able to properly enjoy my hobby. Not only can I print whatever 40k model I want with exactly 1:1s or redesigns readily available but being able to print various models from a wide range of IPs or unique fresh designs as well. Over a year of printing and seeing 40k Christmas boxsets being more expensive than ever, codex's being out of date and costing nearly the same as a new video game just makes me wince due to how cheap printing has been for me. It reshifted my view and relationship with the tabletop wargaming hobby and allowed me to be more adventurous and invested in it outside of a financial point of view. Allowing me to try systems like OPRs where I can have rainforest storm troopers fighting against ww2 trench soldiers with mechs has been a blast to just enjoy a game both artistically and narratively without the stress and worry over rules bloat, new models and lore to insite more spending, bi seasonal price increases every year, etc. It just lets me be happy with my hobby.

[@akumaking1]

When will Games Workshop be taken down many, many pegs thanks to 3D printing?

[@RumorsofWAAAGH]

What I like about 3D printing is being able to scale up my prints, which makes it easier for me to paint them.

[@keatsmeister]

This is a big sell for me. I’ve been able to scale up D&D characters for Enlarge spells, but also just to have decorative centre pieces not just as statue scenery but for the mantle piece too

[@Coraxery]

I come back every time for Darryl, but I stay for the electronic disco music...

[@howardcoates6985]

personally, I love the sculpts that come from Battle Yak miniatures as well as Artisan Guild. Interesting models with just the right amount of detail.

[@BrailleScale]

Everyone's experiences can vary. I use Siraya Tech resin and their factory-recommended printer-specific settings were basically a 99% solution for me right out of the box. Settings are resin/printer specific so always worth a few test prints to fine-tune, but that is a one-and-done step if you don't switch resins/brands. Add a wham-bam flex plate and I've only had to zero my build plate the one time. I love your tip on mixing, I absolutely recommend mixing the resin in the vat like you describe to also fish around for bits stuck to the FEP- I use a 100% silicone cooking spatula to do that. Also- it is worth learning how to do your own supports as then you can make your own files or use any sculptor's files and orient prints to strategically hide those support nubs and get the best results out of the printer. Print orientation is a big part of an acceptable final result. Running all slicer files through UV Tools has saved me from any failed print issues. It might take more time to prep, but that is major time saved avoiding failed prints due to supports or suction cups, resin traps, etc...

[@DaThingOnTheDoorstep]

Nah, the day GW (or any company) loses the war is when you can run one of these in the dinkiest studio apartment or mom's basement without fumigating yourself and contaminating your living space with harmful particulate and the toxic chemicals used to not only produce the models, but also cleaning them, as well as ending up with a bucket of hazardous waste you need to properly dispose of. Don't get me wrong, I'd absolutely love to have a printer. I don't want to pay 70 bucks for two shipping containers and a couple of barrels, and I absolutely can't be bothered to dig around garbage for DIY crap. I would run a printer 24/7 if I could. But after recently getting the opportunity to operate one, not just fiddling with a slicer and pressing print mind, but setting up and cleaning up afterwards, the tech is just not there yet and maybe this branch of it never will.

[@picassawi5578]

I agree Phrozen's printers are great. However I don't see 3d printing as a theeat for GW. It will slowly kill independent creators or at least force them to move to digital designing (and that might hurt the smaller independent companies). However, there are already TONS of very good designers, some proxies are better then GW models. So one or even a few designers moving away will do absolutelly nothing to GW as they will simply find replacements, and I'm sure the designers will make great models, but will everyone move away from the lore for that reason? Nah. The Perrys left. Same with game designers. Rick Priestley, Alessio Cavatore both moved to other companies and despite doing pretty well, they are not even close to GW scale. But indeed, 3d printing is definatelly a useful tool, no doubt about that.

[@JoeHardacre]

Sorry Jon, you're an amazing painter but the clickbait titles I think have finally got too much for me

[@SteenStoney]

He has bills to pay and clickbait works

[@OkieDokieCreations]

And he’s kinda not wrong

[@Evilminiature]

@@OkieDokieCreationshe’s not.

[@kriss667]

I forgive the clickbait every time Darryl shows up.

[@samd5466]

This is his full time job and youtube consistently rewards titles like this. If you went into this video genuinely believing Jon discovered something this past week that's going to put GW in trouble you're a moron

[@handznet]

for starters, I'm not a fan of GW's prices, they are ridiculously high BUT it's perfectly understandable that GW is reluctant to offer their models as STL and they don't like the fact that someone is making 3D files with their IP. GW lives on figures and paint, not on selling rules. I would even say that most people, including myself, buy miniatures for the sake of painting them not playing them. As soon as GW would start officially selling printable miniatures, they would IMMEDIATELY appear on torrents etc. And that's the end of GW and Warhammer.

[@gavindavis3640]

Highlands Miniatures does *excellent* miniatures that are wonderful to paint. He is inspired by the old-school warhammer aesthetic, but does his own thing.

[@kettusnuhveli]

As somebody who's been subscribed to Highlands patreon for the past year or so I have to agree in everything but the "does his own thing" part. Most models are just recreations of the original Old World kits with little to no changes! 😂

[@dpedreno]

@@kettusnuhveli didn’t know these and went to take a look. I have to agree with you, they’re very close to old school warhammer. There’s some differences here and there, but I can only agree.

[@itsthejdquest]

I gave up 3d printing due to the massive amount of failures I would get after my first initial print and the amount of space it took up. I had to buy a 1600 dollar grow tent with a 500 dollar ventilation system in order to vent out the fumes with proper filtration. the large grow tent would allow enough space to fully vent the fumes while working with the uncured resin. Taking it all down was the best day of my life. I would pay a person to print my files moving forward as the savings was not really there for me.

[@mrbigphil22]

Loot Studios have some absolutely fantastic sculptors and artists working for them and their models are fantastic!

[@kyledownes109]

1. DO NOT USE CARD TO MIX THE RESIN! Use a silicon spatula, if you use something hard or scratchy you will damage the FEP and its lifespan will be much shorter. 2. Just get a cheap metal scraper, does the same job, but less risk of cutting yourself

[@whereisthefilm]

I have the Phrozen Mighty 8k and it works well. A lot less failures than my Prusa FDM. I would suggest trying other resins. My kids break the more fragile Aqua Gray so I've switched to the Anycubic Tough Resin.

[@wssayer]

When talking about 3D printing, you always forget to take into account the influence lore. Most Players fall in love with a faction, characters and minis from the lore they read about. When I play Death Guard, I want to field Mortarion, Typhus, etc from the books and lore not lookey likey's. Secondly, if you like a game then you support it. If every 40k player 3d printed eventually GW would fall and there wouldn't be any 40k. How is that any good for any 40k player? Lastly even though it is getting more affordable, 3D printing will always be the reserve of the hardcore gamer. Very few parents would buy one as a present for their child, let alone the average 14 year old buy one with their pocket money. Like video game piracy, 3D printing 40k minis may feel like you're getting one over on industry (GW in this case) justifying it to yourself, however you may end up contributing in hurting the very thing you love.

[@Enkis_rage]

Loot Studios has some pretty incredible models. Idk if I'd say GW even comes close to alot of the available proxies now. Painting highly detailed models is just as much fun to me as painting a simple model if not more so, I tend to want to add l.e.d.s and water effects to everything lol.

[@andreatassio]

I think people overestimate how many would actually be interested in printing. It is basically a new hobby. Sculptors could leave GW in droves. It does not mean that more people would join the 3D printing community. I have a printer myself and I still rather buys miniatures most of the time for SEVERAL reasons. I don't partcularly think 3d prints keep senior leadership awake at night. Like, at all. It will always be sort of fringe IMHO.

[@Miguel-bk3yo]

The "way over desinged" models are very much sculpted with the painting in mind. We're churning out so many models/objects that traditional way of painting isnt realistic. We can paint a small model in roughly 10 minutes with the slap chop technique(s), and the high level of details it what smakes it look so good.

[@BarkerVancity]

wow...i was just curios if you were live streaming after i bumped into you. just as you were signing off, and made it into a video. Glad i could help with my 2 sandbags. im still south and fighting the frontline -barkervancity

[@grognardgaming8952]

GW lost that battle without entering. I can kit bash so many flavors of SM., loyalist and some traitor. I can also print a battle force of nearly every faction in 40k if not full army. Oh and ai don't play 40k anymore as OPR is so much faster, engaging, and just more fun. So the only thing GW produces that I consume anymore is new lore and I seem to be getting less interested in even that as I drift away from the game it drives.

[@TEXT_ninjon0_ON..TELE-GRAM]

Hi you won.

[@untimention]

Less then 5mins in and I stopped. As someone who has printed for a year nearly every instruction given is wrong. Starting with here have my printer settings 🤦🏻 every printer needs to be dialled in using a calibration test. You never put the printer plate in the iso. You don’t need to clean it after a print unless it really needs it. You should use a plastic razor to remove models from the plate not metal. Don’t use a playing card to mix resin… use the plastic (not razor) scraper they give you. Once you’ve washed the models you should let them air dry before putting in warm water. I recommend a bottle warmer as it keeps the contaminated water self contained and a steady heat.

[@RoofusKit]

Get yourself a flex plate instead of that scraper. Also, don't handle models with bare hands that haven't been fully cured. Even if they've been washed you will likely develop a skin allergy to the resin and that is no fun. By no fun I mean misery town.

[@jaychrist4437]

I love how people think this would be a good thing. Like putting hobby companies out of business will somehow help the miniature wargaming scene. What a bunch of clowns.

[@UltraMeanMarines]

It hasn't lost the war, because 98% of 3D print files are awful, and as many of the prints themselves are really bad, too.

[@redspec01]

If I had the space and facilities I would buy a resin 3D printer. I find that the world if full of amazing beautiful models that you can print use with any rules set.

[@TheBieb3r]

Pleasue use Gloves when handling uncured models ;) . I want to watch videos in the future of you :D . Great Video

[@green_manc]

Bob naismith, and monstergirl trish both sell models both worked for gw you can see interviews with both and info on what they sell on the painting phase podcast!!

[@pdjames1729]

What would happen if there was a terrible 'leak' at GW and all of their models cough, oh cough deary me :D #GOAM

[@jacobdjurhuus300]

Unit9 for cyberpunk 28mm are avesome, I have been using them for infinity.

[@adriansawyer3174]

what is the toxic particulate level in the house during and after running the various 3d printers you've used?

[@tribuneofmercy6184]

No mold lines sure seems worth it. The problem for me is having a safe ventillated work area where I can use this.

[@stowlo]

Looks like the link to the sculptor is missing. Would really like to click through and support them.

[@OxMann13]

2nd straight video with a random jab at GW in the title. They must not be sending him free stuff

[@AddestVision]

Please remember that if you're sanding resin to wear a protective face mask. Resin dust is very very bad for your lungs!

[@mx.lucyfur]

Another great thing about printing models aside from taking away the apprehension about messing up one you paid a lot of money for is that you can use misprints for experimentation of techniques. I'll often keep misprints that were largely in tact but wound up missing a finger or have half of an accessory because they needed better supports and then use those for quick experimentation. As I type this, I have a werewolf gal that had a half-printed tail that I painted bronze then used blue-green oil paint to experiment with a verdigris effect. That way I can try it out before using it on a full mini. And I totally agree that there are a lot of modelers out there who don't think about how their model translates to painting. Not only super busy, but some pieces end up being exceedingly delicate when actually printed out. Edit: I had said I wouldn't mention artists unless allowed but that was before I watched the whole video and saw the part inviting us to do that. Some of the ones on MMF that I find do sculpt models that are well suited for painting are: - Bite the Bullet - Velrock Arts - Dragon Trappers Lodge - Twin Goddess Miniatures - Battle Yak Miniatures - Artisan Guild - Titan Forge Miniatures - One Page Rules (they also have freebies on Cults3D!) - Printed Obsession - Rocket Pig Games - Papsikels Miniatures

[@thrrax]

Was thinking on doing reviews on sculptors from Patreon and MMF, in which I would address all these points, like design uniqueness, details, sculpt quality, printability, ease of painting. For example, Archvillain Games and Mini Monster Mayhem have great designs, but not exactly printing and painting friendly. Especially the huge models, which most times are way over the top.

[@elementalsigil]

Just keep raising prices GW. You will be your own slayer.

[@the_Mike_d]

PA-CHOW - so happy to see the fellow gamer love here. Thanks for the great video. You're so right about 3D printing. It's better than it was a few years ago, but there are definitely so many tricks and tips that make a huge difference.

[@DeathStarKitty]

omg get a lunch tray to put under your prints when taking them off the printer. A playing card? wtf? you get a plastic scraper in the damn box. DO NOT MAKE 3D printing videos when you don't have a proper resin 3D printing set up or a basic understanding of the dangers of the material you are using. You are not an expert and can only teach people the wrong way to handle resin.

[@TEXT_ninjon0_ON..TELE-GRAM]

Hi you won^

[@theawesomejames1]

I love printing, and have got pretty good at it, but you've completely undersold the risks here Jon. Maybe you dont care or are certain in your setup, but handling uncured models without gloves is dangerous, being around liquid resin without a mask is dangerous, and sanding/filing models without a mask is dangerous.

[@TEXT_ninjon0_ON..TELE-GRAM]

Hi you won^

[@maxxammax0]

Well I just got my elegoo saturn 3 ultra, and its a beast. Plug and play, instantly printed high quallity models. It feels like Ive wasted soooooo much money on GW products.

[@TEXT_ninjon0_ON..TELE-GRAM]

Hi you won.

[@TheCrimsonArchivist]

A good suggestion for anyone just getting a resin printer or even a fdm printer, get a magnetic flex print bed sheet, it can make removing a print super simple. I have even had fdm prints separate after the print bed cooled to room temp after it was done.

[@nobody342]

I have a flexplate on my resin, and recently the magnet pealed from the corner. gonna try to fix it with some tape when it arrives, however... the glass scraper that he suggested over the spatula may be even better, I should try my spare buildplate without the magnet, which is a pain, but my prints allways stick, but dont over stick.

[@mylifeisajoke1]

If you want an easier time with your prints, make sure you're keeping the resin at around 25-30C. You can DIY small heaters to go in the enclosure, or set up an enclosure for your printer to run in with a heater. I find it gives me much better and more consistent results with my prints.

[@jamgooandyou]

I can see this becoming a pollution tax, or h&s issue, too many have resin printers, brag about how the cheap, affordability of it all is, but dont mention the time required, and unhealthy use it is

[@miguellopez3392]

Time required is still less time than working a jib to buy a model, and it's safe to do in a ventilated space.

[@Perserra]

My Elegoo Mars 3 also worked right out of the box, and they've produced three newer units since then.

[@frost2392]

I'm assuming that resin printing still requires respirators and a well ventilated room? I really want to get into this but a dedicated space has always been the holdup.

[@captainferrite]

Yea don't do it where you live.

[@necro5000]

@Ninjon Piper Makes makes the most compelling Tau (and recently Eldar) mecha proxies... The range is completely modular and since all joints are using the same system, with just little adjustments in scale all parts of all kits are interchangable! I've never been much into mechs (or Tau for that matter), but the way Piper Makes leaned on the Tau theme and tweaked it, makes them looks so much cooler... They are coherent with the existing Tau infantry, but also different enough, that you could use them in any other mecha tabletop game... The Lancer RPG comes to mind! I don't know if anyone remembers Rackham Confrontation/Cadwallon, these ranges held some of the best miniatures and world building ever and were way ahead of their time considering how squatty everything GW made in the early 2000's looked... However, the company went bancrupt during the big financial crisis (I think) and the sculptors salvaged what ever they could argue was their IP and have since started their own ranges and partially continued the old line... Offshoots selling STL files of their models include Signum Games, who are making beautiful models, some of which would make lovely members of an Inquisitorial Retinue or a Mordheim Warband, just a bit more slender and dynamic, than GW models. Than there are Station Forge, Dork Factory, Dakka Dakka Store and Blightbones... just the first ones that come to mind, highly recommend to check out all of the above!

[@xManzi]

You should really get yourself GKTwo... That printer solved every issue I had with all other printer, yea, it's pricy but it pays in spades...

[@HannesMrg]

One artist I like is Galaad Miniatures, exactly because his models arent stuffed with Details and fun to paint. Yet still every model is unique.

[@ResurrectedBrush]

I was originally frustrated with resin 3D printing until I discovered one of the magic tricks: temperature. I was getting all kinds of weird failures with no real apparent logical reason why... until I discovered that my printing area was too cold. Once I figured that out and started making sure my print room was warm enough, failure became nearly a thing of the past. They also sell VAT heaters that wrap around the VAT to make sure the resin stays uniformly warm enough. And I 100% agree with you about many of the models being over-designed. I get how that can happen, having done some 3D modeling -- you're looking at the mesh very large on your screen, so it seems like there's not enough detail. You're building it as though it were going to be a full size figure, instead of something in the 28-30mm range. It's always like a treasure find when I come upon some STLs that were obviously designed by or had the input of painters.

[@TEXT_ninjon0_ON..TELE-GRAM]

Hi you won^

[@captainferrite]

Yep local climate is by far the most important factor

[@KantFromEC]

Can you do a video for curing and washing resin prints with different methods? I want to get into printing but the exorbitant cost of all the accessories gives me pause. I’d like to know the viability for different resin finishing processes i.e. sun drying, cheap nail salon UV lights, handheld UV lamps and cure stations. Love the video.

[@liquiddude9855]

3D printed minis are worth nothing to a collector

[@segatasanshiro21]

Zero mention of the toxicity of resin? Fail.

[@OkieDokieCreations]

First off I’m disappointed we didn’t get Darrell taking shots of resin and second I’ve printed like a dozen “not termagaunts” and a “not a screamer killer” this week. For like $7 in resin.

[@liberalhyena9760]

You think Jon would let Darrell anywhere near his resin? Sniffing resin is how Darrell became Darrell.

[@SFTaYZa]

Where do you even get these 'not a termamgaunt' stls

[@OkieDokieCreations]

@@SFTaYZa I found them on Cults3d.

[@TEXT_ninjon0_ON..TELE-GRAM]

Hi you won"

[@Robocop2134]

Gotta say I don't think GW has the best sculptors for wargame minis anymore. Just look at companys like Titanforge, and compare their Scarlet Crusade Line to the new Cities of Sigmar Humans. Both came out this year and fulfill a similiar niche with a similar lineup, and I'll take the Scarlet Crusade models any day of the week.

[@TEXT_ninjon0_ON..TELE-GRAM]

Hi you won^

[@skrathos337]

How did you overcome the issue with fumes? That's my biggest obstacle I feel, a lack of room where I can properly ventilate it.

[@nuglord2084]

I place the printer on top of my stovetop and run the stove fans full blast. I don’t smell the resin at all while the printer covered. It does require planning so there are microwaveable leftovers for a day or two while the print jobs run.

[@adamsmith8765]

Trish Carden? Games Workshop scultor of old who now does her own thing.

[@TEXT_ninjon0_ON..TELE-GRAM]

Hi you won"

[@Moonlighter_TV]

I'm new to KDM and know you're a big fan. The dramatic lighting on this guy is giving me ideas on the lantern light on my survivors. I imagine you have a lot of your personal set painted but you should use your new contact info for Adam Poots and see if he'll send you a set to make some painting videos on ;)

[@toddnaevestad3322]

Shout out to Twin Goddess Miniatures for their 3D prints. They're unabashedly thirsty, but they seem to have so much fun with the models they design. There's always something new that I find amazing and want to find a use for.

[@majormaccas]

What a load of clickbait, no warhammer shown at all, not even a look-a-like example model. But beyond that, GW "losing the 3D printing war" yeah, all you need is an entire room to set up a factory with $40 resin, $500 printer, god-knows UV curer, a tub for litres of iso alcohol, patience, and then finally some knock-off molds and hope these settings work ok. OK, yeah, sure GW are going bankrupt, no one's ever buying a model again, you're literally creating a hobby for your hobby at this point....

[@paulhempenstall5463]

My Elegoo Mars 3 has been printing good quality out of the box with pretty much no tinkering on my behalf (occasional re-levelling and zeroing of the print plate). It is my first one, so maybe I've been lucky, or just not so much of a heavy duty user. I also have the model painted here, from the Adventurers of Inneath by Durgin Paint Forge, I love their model aesthetic. The link is missing in the video description, but I guess folks can google it.

[@Del_Scorcho]

You are totally right. I use the Mars 3 and have a few buddies all get it as well. Zero issues with getting it up and running. On my main machine I haven't even releveled in 2 years. Solid prints weekly. I also love my Phrozen.

[@PlayMadness]

I was pleasantly surprised by Anycubic's Photon Mono 2. I picked one up on sale for $139 and procrastinated on setting it up because I was dreading the process of testing, failing, tweaking, testing again, failing again, on and on and on. But to my immense surprise, it literally worked out of the box, plug and play, zero issues. The closest thing to a failed print it's ever had was when I set up a print too close to the build plate in the slicer and the model clipped into the raft. I've been printing every day for two months, six separate armies and nearly a hundred different markers and game aids, and zero failures or problems. 10/10 would recommend

[@Haroith]

There is only one conclusion - you are very subjective. You select those examples that you want for your vision. Yes, ordinary space marines are more-less simple. But even cadian troopers are overdetailed for a horde-army backbone. I do not talk about something a little more elite. Look at the Archaon's bodyguards: they make dazzles in the eyes! Do not mix up minis for gaming and for 'artistic painting'! There are a lot of them of both types, traditional and 3d-printed as well. You show in the video typical mini just for painting. OnePageRules team makes amazing minis exactly for gaming: they are much simpler for an average painter-gamer and still they have enough details.

[@timmehwimmy]

Loved the video, but don't touch the model with bare hands before it's been through the curing stage of the process! It could still have resin left over after washing it.