The Impacted Idea

Some projects bring on the creative tool builds, to Getter Done, this project was no different, creating a drive impact socket for helical anchors, on the PlasmaCAM. Does it work or not, we give it the best run for our effort.
;{)------

[@larry527az3]

3/8" ID air hose would make a huge difference, especially at 100'. Great video Keith, thanks!

[@Barefoot3us]

Great invention of the driver socket and it did relieve you the torque on your bum shoulder. The muffler clamps are a great solution and improvement to holding the shelter down. I sure do enjoy your videos. Thank you, Jeff

[@componenx]

Years ago, a buddy of mine made a set of anchors from helical car springs with a central shaft; they worked really well. Thanks for all the videos!

[@randallparker8477]

Great work, great labor, being a "bad shoulder" person myself I fully felt your pain... watching this vid I got tired and frustrated right along with you... thanks for sharing.

[@electricman5010]

Keith, Great video showing how to Getter Done ! Enjoy the human moments you always include in your video's, that's what makes them among the VERY BEST on youtube !!

[@RjBin-xz2um]

Nice project! Good to see you back in the shop "getting r dun".

[@Rich206L]

It's nice to see you in the shop again, Keith! I hope we will see more KZbin stuff this coming year. Rich

[@donaldrichards8309]

I really enjoy every one of the very informing videos here on KZbin Keith. After watching this one building the tool to aid in screwing down the helical anchors, May I add, I just welded a 1 inch nut to the top of the helical anchor and used a impact driver like you did and worked very well and much better control while driving down. I really appreciate you sharing your knowledge with us

[@KnolltopFarms]

I really enjoyed this Keith, even if you had me wondering if I'd thought you were going to build the driver differently when you cut the 1/4inch "horseshoes". Very cool that you showed us the whole story(or was it "the hole story"?), and I also loved your advice to stick it out and see our ideas through. That is real gold, and sadly isn't always driven home in our youth nowadays. Thanks a bunch for the show, and I'm so glad you shared that laugh with with us again. Vanessa and Eric are lucky to have you as a foundation for your family. Have a great weekend, Aloha...Chuck.

[@pkav8tor]

Ah yes....the rotation flex within the anchor shaft absorbing most of the impact force produced by the air tool, making it a slow process, been there done that. I have found that the use of a large gear reduction drill motor with long side handles works well in jobs like this, as long as you hang on tight to prevent becoming the next visitor to the ER. Nice shed Kieth, thanks for sharing.

[@WAVETUBE84]

+pkav8tor I didn't figure the shaft flex. Great observation.

[@mlindholm]

Ah, so they were working like the torque sticks tire shops use when putting lug nuts on (before they re-torque with a manual torque wrench)

[@neon614]

Yes, it's true. Better use non impact power or manual driving.

[@WAVETUBE84]

***** That's the whole point: he didn't want to hurt his shoulder (evidently his shoulder is hurt already?). This was just an attempt (and some good video). But, I have to agree with you: a regular electric drill would work better. But, they put a tremendous strain on your shoulders.... when the grab a rock or root....

[@АндрейАмпелонов]

+WAVETUBE84 It's sounds like true... But impact drilling through long torsion bar is like a hammering through rubber block. Very inefficient deal. And impossible in case of root or rock.

[@keith73z28]

When I first saw some of your videos I was impressed at the Numerous and diverse skills that you have as a machinist. I thought to myself- WOW this dude can weld! (I am a welder as well). I have been impressed many times with your natural ability in problem solving, learning from AND sharing your mistakes. Something I miss from my former trades that I have worked is the recognition and appreciation from my "students", (people I was employed to train and teach to operate machines, presses, welders etc.) To wax philosophical for a second, I want to say that what you do here is appreciated and well received by many of us. Something I have noticed about myself is whatever work or task that I find myself undertaking, I feel the need to find how I might strive to maybe get the best result or try to do it a little better than someone else. (try) I think it is in a mans character- a quality you have that makes you "who you are", that results in you being pretty darn good at whatever you venture to do. Well my point is what you do kind of makes the world a better place. -I feel like its good to recognize achievement in our Teachers as well as encouraging our students. My Mom used to say if you cant find anything nice to say dont say anything at all. You are a good example, have a good teaching style and I continue to look up to you and learn new stuff all the time. Thanks for all the pains, editing and effort you take to bring us the videos. - Keith

[@ericking57]

Five minutes after the last fastener was in the ground my ex wife would have decided I should move it a foot to the left. I am sure you have a Vanessa approved location . Great video I loved the stuck shims, I felt your pain and appreciate your sense of humor leaving it in the video . Thank you for all you do and God bless.

[@geneelliott3230]

I seen bozo lurking as you were drawing and wished I could contact you before he escaped out into the room. No worries and a good way to spin those anchors into the ground! I built my green houses much like your garage using PVC pipe and clear plastic tarp. Going on the third year and still holding good, probably will change out the tarps this coming spring.

[@shawnmrfixitlee6478]

Great build Keith , I would patent that idea .. Worked very well !! Thumbs up man ..

[@wxfield]

I had to setup 5 of these storage tents for a customer in NH. We welded a hexrod to a D-Shackle and attached it to a Hole-Hawg. It took ~20 minutes to haul out the stick welder and make the tool. It took longer to grind-off the shackle and put it back into stock.

[@davidreaid5700]

Keith, a good honest video. thanks for showing all the small problems. Next time try a 3/4 drive impact, its a lot stronger. thanks David

[@CompEdgeX2013]

Pretty neat idea to save some labor. Makes me glad I have a backhoe though..LOL BTW: A couple years back I added an electric 1/2" impact to the truck for wheel removal of RVs. It has WAY more power than any of the air tools I've ever owned. I bet it would motor those all the way home easy. Colin :-)

[@PhilsProjects]

Some days are just a "struggle" no matter what you try. Thanks for sharing Keth

[@jonfountaine8855]

Perfect! For a minute I thought you actually were C Dundee! Amazing how much a man from Cape Cod sounds like an Aussie.

[@AmateurRedneckWorkshop]

I have screwed some of those in the ground myself. Lots of work Looks like you had a good idea. Thanks for sharing.

[@billshuey7422]

It is nice to see someone who is willing to show their mistakes. Great videos Thank you

[@josephp.polnaszek9134]

Hi Keith, I made a set earth anchor drivers for a customer years ago. I used a 1HP reversible 120VAC gear reduction motor mounted into a nice 30" wide frame that he could handle and had a reversing spring loaded switch at fingertip reach. He used them for driving mobile home earth anchors. Last time I seen him he said that the drivers were still working as well as the day he picked them up. The problem with common small pneumatic or electric impact drivers is that the earth dampens the hammering effect and the motor by itself just doesn't have the torque to turn the earth anchor without the hammering effect. Joe

[@nickolaguez]

Haha I loved this vid, it's exactly how some projects just go. Especially when things take a little longer than expected. Good job Keith.

[@greathodgy22]

. In the past I have screwed those anchors in with a bar, hard work. I used a garden hose to dribble water down the anchor and that seems to make it go in a bit easier. I like that tool you made, it does save a lot of effort. Thanks for the video. .

[@jonmccormick6805]

This Old Tony could make that tap, and drill the hole too!

[@donfoster1832]

Nothing wrong with working smarter instead of harder, although sometimes you need both. Good video, thanks!

[@cetyl2626]

Interesting video, neat to see you tackle a quick and dirty job! It really adds dimension to your videos. I'd agree with you on the 1/2 or more air line- it'll make a big difference. Good point guys had here on the torsional reaction, though.

[@vtstudio31]

Hay Keith; this was one of your funniest videos ever, it's nice to see that even a well seasons craftsman such as your self can run in to difficulties.. i wasn't laughing at you but i was laughing. Thanks for sharing, ron

[@dabrgo2]

Don't you just love it when a plan comes together? I have never seen Mr. Fenner struggle like in this video.

[@daleorth7690]

Awesome video Keith. Keep up the good work brotha!!

[@williamallen2817]

Thanks! Always like your tool ideas. I need a anchor driver to fit my Harbor Freight ,Electric Pipe Threader. I can't help but think, it will drive those anchors. I have a 12X22 slab in need of a cover. Another thing, I drag my portable air tank to the job site , and let it fill for air volume, good use for old compressor tank.

[@kenwolfe6093]

Very cool build! When we put anchors or eye lags in, we've been using a large hook bolt in the worm drive right angle drill to turn them in. Using the hook to remove them becomes easier because you can pull up on on it while spinning. The right angle drill is really very good for most any place we've used it on. I'm going to make what you designed but I'm going to use hex rod instead of a socket. Thanks for the video! .

[@Daynaleo1]

Bigger version of my cuphook trick. Pulling them out is real easy and putting them in the round eye to round eye contact keeps it centered/aligned.

[@Tinker001]

Darn it Keith! Why didn't you do this a year ago? I put up 6 of those shelters last summer & it nearly killed me driving those anchors. That socket is wonderful! OTOH...I started yelling at the screen when you drew the 1/4" part & didn't stop until you noticed the mistake.

[@eddiekawecki2510]

I like the build and concept. I would be willing to bet if you had a tool to drive your socket and anchor with a steady turn like a gear reduction electric motor drive with a clutch for safety, handle for leverage and reverse eliminating all the torque lost to the spring in the rod while you are driving it in the ground you would have a great tool especially if you had to do a lot of anchors. Next would be a hyd. driven motor with gear reduction to do the same. Pretty much the same concept as an auger used for telephone poles of fence posts but on a smaller scale. Enjoy watching and always learning from your videos. Thank you, Ed K. Cleve. Ohio.

[@traviswatson4986]

Ideally if you rented a gas auger you could have fabricated the same welding tool you made but with a squared drill ARBOR on the end instead of the socket. Never the less the videos are fantastic and I appreciate your hard work Keith

[@blmeflmm66]

Those anchors are a bear. Too much torsion spring action in the anchor itself for an impact probably. An old low speed Milwaukee right angle drill might be the ticket for those. Tie off the handle end to a truck hitch or tree to keep from breaking your arm if it grabs haha! The tool is a great idea for sure!! Thanks for posting this.

[@HolzMichel]

Hey Keith, nice to see you back in the groove again ! thanks for the tips on this type of lean-to. might it have been a little easier using a gas powered post hole auger? adapting the tool shouldn't be much of a problem. also it's nice to see the little pitfalls even a master such as yourself has at times. everybody makes everything look so easy in their videos and there have been a few times i have questioned my own skills and finesse when attempting some projects. it shows the human side of you. which in my eyes makes you an even better mentor. cheers mike

[@LightningFabrication]

Keith It's the torsional flex in the helical anchors that absorb the impact of the hammers in the impact gun that slow the progress of them going into the ground.

[@odc43054]

Love the concept, Keith. I have a bit ground anchor I use to keep things from "walking away" when I put them out by the street to sell. I just use a long length of pipe to screw it into the ground. A gizmo like then one you created would be great on the end of a big impact. Looks like a 3/4 drive with a big air hose would do the trick.

[@foadab]

murphys law lol. you earned every second of this video. well done.

[@Daynaleo1]

Not exactly the same thing, but the same principal, I use a cup hook chucked in my cordless drill to run eyescrews in. Or turn it around and chuck up the eyescrew in the dtill to run cuphooks in. Even if you are only putting in one, this saves lots of time and frustration. Great build from one torn up shoulder guy to another!

[@erajoj]

I think the relatively high angular mass of the socket prevents the force from the impact wrench from transferring to the helical stakes efficiently. Then again, it could just be lack of torque.

[@timtrott4145]

Great video, I wonder if you modified the leading edge of the anchor if it might slide past the rocks more easily? push them out of the way .

[@PeterWMeek]

Yep, a hydraulic auger driver on a Bobcat is faster for driving helical anchors. Still.that was a nice socket; I could have wished to have such a device (adapted to the 1.5" hex of the Bobcat driver) when I was anchoring temporary buildings. You might consider drilling a hole through the side plates so you could put a retention bolt through that would keep the socket on the anchor if you had to pull. You might need a pin retainer on the impact driver (rather than the spring ball-detent) if you wanted to pull when extracting anchors. The Bozo moment was what happens when you do your drawing on the computer rather than drawing on the steel. It's not that you never have Bozo moments; it's just that you see them sooner and can erase the chalk marks quicker. (Kidding; I think that Plasma-Cam is a really spiffy piece of equipment.) Great video.

[@Siporax1]

Great idea. The solution is incredible simple- bigger impact driver. ;)

[@kevinhornbuckle]

This reminds me of the pneumatic landscaping tool I devised in my head several years ago. I didn't make a prototype because I don't have a plasma table. If you want to hear the idea, Keith, I will send it to by email. A few landscape contractors have told me that it is viable because it make a common task quicker and easier.

[@MrClickbang357]

I loved this video for several reasons: when you got the aluminum shims stuck you struggled with them and DID NOT swear- you sure you;re ex Navy?? "~> And you showed your misrakes! If I go by most other videos out there I am the only moron making mistakes in my hobby fabbing!!! Thanks again!

[@douglasthompson2740]

Hello Keith, That looks like one of the 1/2 Harbor Freight impact guns. Good machine that i have had for many, many years but I upgraded this year to their new 1/2""Thunder gun" (I believe they call it) on sale at around $80 but a much more powerful (in torque) gun than the little one. I think that is asking a lot of a small 1/2 but the new red body one would probably walk through it. I keep the old one because it still performs very well just at a smaller torque value (seems like the old one was around 200# and the new is 600#). It does lug nuts etc no problem. Real stubborn 3/4 frozen nuts fall easily to the new gun keeping in mind it is twice the price of the older one. Very good value for the money. I recommend you try one of the new ones. My only small complaint with them over 25 years of use is I prefer the ball bearing to the 'c' clip for socket attachment but for the price difference between IR and HF I will put up with it. Good to hear you have had good luck with those shelters for such a long period. They just don't make it around here. Had a very big one out at the boat yard anchored to a 6' x 12" wall with footings around the total perimeter. Lasted about two years until the wind in one of our larger storms shredded it. It was probably 25' x 90' and 24' tall. It was a serious tent. They took the warranty and built a steel building on the foundation. Have a good day. Doug

[@jpcallan97225]

Your impact wrenches sound like they are starved for air. Try a 3/8" or 1/2" air hose with High Flow style air couplers and plugs. Tru-Flate (automotive style) or Industrial Interchange all add considerable restriction to flow. If you are using 1/4" line, try threading the hose directly into the air tool with no quick-connects to demonstrate just how much restriction the air has to fight to get through. I learned this lesson the hard way. My shops is plumbed with 1/2" pipe going into 3/8" hose - huge improvement with all my air tools, especially the air-loving Dynabrade belt sanders.

[@tolydukhovny682]

great show, mr. fenner! from the idea to the drawing to the fab. and every seemingly negative result is, in fact, very beneficial to the design development! as for the driver, i think you'd be faster and better off if you'd use the next bigger size of the impact -- that's been tested in my shop practice. if you wish, i could read the id's from that machine, and publish it as the reply. thanks again for the video and for your effort to spread knowledge. -toly

[@trig]

Lots of very good ideas to why you had so much trouble. For my pennys worth I would cut the spike of the end of the auger. Every time the end hits an obstacle the auger stops feeding into the soil and loosens the material around it. As it no longer feeds you have to lean on it until the spike drills through, or around, the blockage. At that point the auger bites into fresh material and starts feeding. It's a bit like trying to tap a blind hole in ally with a taper tap. Or it was a Monday?

[@billmoran3812]

HaHaHa ! I was trying to see how the outside plates would work with the centers cut out. Good idea, but I think a 3/4" drive or even 1" would drive it faster. Several years ago, i was putting up wind measuring towers that had helical anchors for the guy wires. these were large ones, about 6" diameter. We made a similar rig that attached to a hydraulic auger on a Bobcat. Worked well even in the tough soil of west Texas. Thanks for sharing. Get that Porsche under cover, winter is coming.

[@ericcorse]

LOL I was wondering how those second parts you cut out were going to work. Good idea about the socket and muffler clamp.

[@johnpeckham8936]

I have never seen so much time and effort put into a simple project. Cut a piece of 1 1/2" pipe ,get a 2" x 1/2" extender put the pipe in your vise and clamp the pipe down to the extender then weld, job done......

[@heliarche]

Yea man, that's a whole lotta drive for that impact wrench, but like you said, it cut you a lot of slack to get through the hard stuff. Maybe not quick but was that heel bar very fast anyhow? Plus your shoulder didn't fall apart and that was the main idea. You must have one heck of a compressor to keep up with all that! I just looked at the 12'X20'. I wonder about putting that on a concrete slab... Someday, someday.

[@Paddington60]

I got to thinking about if you could mount the TIG torch on the plasma table to draw on metal. Then I thought why would you want to do that, would it look good or would it be useful. Spirograph in weld bead, hummmmmmmm. Nice work Keith. Thank you, John

[@kboy4526]

Keith, look into the "snaps" feature of your drawing software. By using this you can easily locate objects to exact locations. This really speeds this up and eliminates the guesswork.

[@mattobermiller5041]

I've used small duck bill anchors to anchor mobile homes down in very high wind areas and they work really well. I drove them with a sledge hammer but the 966 loader that pulled them out had the ass end off the ground trying to pull them out. Cheap, easy anchor that works extremely well.

[@jeffmoss26]

nice one Keith!

[@GuyAnecone]

That impact gun looks like my Blue Point from Snap On I bought in 1985. I still use it

[@rickl.orchids]

......my rotator cuff hurts watching this!...........bigger driver needed, we used to drive 36" anchors with a big drill had 3/4 drive& side handles, was electric......but the socket.......fantastic idea.

[@DonDegidio]

Keith You need a larger diameter air hose for the length you are using. Better might be an electric impact driver. Great idea.

[@TyphoonVstrom]

You might have been in the marine industry too long when you refer to the right hand side of your shop as the starboard side! It's easy to overthink these shelters and try to make them permanent, but the whole point of them is they are quick and easy to set up, and take down again. Come summer, Keith may want all that yard space for something else. With the shed the way it is, just unbolt it and it's back to open space.

[@TheDisorderly1]

You might consider making up a few of these for sale. I've tried to drive those helical anchors before using a heel bar and what a pain in the neck that is.

[@scottmarshall6766]

Been there, you're driving a torsion spring, same as a long extension bar. Next time use a pipe threader for the tool. Steady torque not effected by the shaft windup. Or hire a couple of high school kids. Thanks for the great videos!

[@doubledown9333]

He he good work Keith I'm watching thinking cool idea and then you start to cut the 6mm and something didn't add up so I go back and I couldn't see where you were going with this one until I see the rethink.

[@ghillbilt9750]

I would bet the reason your impact is slowing down is due to ice forming in the air line due the venturi effect and some moisture in your air line. It happens to mine on long runs in cool temps.

[@esoomreltna]

Keith, Looks like you needed some "flashing grease" on the two spacers!! :-) Eric

[@CncObsession]

We used to drive eyes into wood for window coverings. Just sawed a slot in a piece of tubing and chucked it in the drill. I think you could have just ground a notch into a big socket the width of the bar/eye.

[@thefirstcrew4194]

The Lord of the Rings poster kind of surprised me. ...now I'm an even bigger fan. :)

[@PlasmaHH]

Last time I was working with a compressor and a long hose like that we had some bypass/reservoir tanks inline near where I was working, and it was a huge difference in the pressure that you could deliver in the first seconds

[@StreuB1]

......I'm liking those shelters more and more I tell ya....

[@Hotrodelectric]

+Brian Streufert Got a friend in Los Angeles who uses them, one as an impromptu (and highly illegal!) paint booth. They work well, last a long time and aren't silly expensive. With just a little planning they keep stuff fairly clean and dry. If needed, they break down as easily as they go up.

[@frednewman2162]

+Hotrodelectric Great idea about "impromptu" paint booth! In need of one and was thinking of doing it out of particle board and rough framing, but that's a way better idea for use and storage! Thanks for mentioning it!!!!

[@StreuB1]

+Hotrodelectric LOL man I tell ya, with everything being either illegal or cancer causing in CA. I am surprised everyone isn't in jail or dead!! ;-)

[@Hotrodelectric]

+Fred Newman You just have make sure that you seal up any gaps where dust, debris and critters can get in. You can get a decent finish, just that all the usual caveats of painting a car apply. You'll do better in the late Spring or early Summer if you go this route. Good luck!

[@Hotrodelectric]

+Brian Streufert Yah, somehow we just manage to keep on truckin' :)

[@Hotrodelectric]

So, with welding all that up, did you wind up having to remove the chrome from the socket? Usually, instead of using something even as nice as a Husky socket, I'll use something from Harbor Fright. If it winds up being a smoking wreck after the job is done, not an expensive loss. You should consider stamping something like "Snap-Off" on that tool :) If it saved you some pain, all worth the effort.

[@whitcwa]

The mass of the adapter and anchor make the performance of the impact driver less than expected. On a nut or bolt impact drivers are OK because the internal hammers are closer to the mass of the fastener. I would try a lower mass routing eye hook with just enough opening at the top to slip over the eye of the anchor. Interesting video. Keep them coming!

[@BuilderCannon]

great idea nice application. that impact gun looks like an old milwaukee pnuematic. the new ones have so much more power. im partial to aircat as they are strong but cost less than the rands. both are good

[@jasontanner5044]

Awesome video. Thank you. It gives me some ideas

[@wither8]

100 feet of 1/2 is gonna be a HUGE drop in PSI, even with fancy Ingersoll Rands. It's flow depednent (CFM being pushed), but with water pressure in a nominal 1/2" in unrestricted conditions 100 psi drops to ~11 psi. Duno off hand what the friction co-efficient of air is but you can ballpark a drop around there. At those lengths youre better off buying some 16 gauge extension cord from MSC and driving that socket with a corded 50 dollar home-depot import ;) (A rotary hammer drill + a SDS spline shank modification to your 'flask' rather than a square drive would make easy work of this if you're going to go at it again) Good episode to watch !

[@johnrobinson6449]

I worked as a welder for 7 years starting when I was 20 and a machinist for 15 years as my last employment. I was a bit confused as you were cutting the aluminum for shims because, from experience, wasn't even thinking that you would attempt to remove them after tacking. With being both clamped tight and the additional force created from the shrinkage of the cooling molten metal of the tacks, sorry, but I was having a good laugh when you were trying to pull them out. :P For .010 shim spacing on each side I think I would have used 3 sheets of paper per side or perhaps 2 thicknesses of index cards. And in point of fact to widen the inside thickness of your socket only one side needed shimming. I would have trimmed the paper to a minimum needed, on all sides and cut away the interior. Just left it in after tacking and it would burn out during the final weld-up. Or perhaps using tin-snips just cut a couple narrow strips from some steel banding (compatible with the steel welding process) to leave in and only on one side.

[@44R0Ndin]

As the son of an auto mechanic, your "20 year old import" impact wrench sounds like it's working alright compared to the IR one you borrowed. On the other hand, you have 3 things working against you for using any pneumatic impact wrench to drive these anchors: 1. 100' of 1/4" air line is a BIG restriction to your air flow. A Goodyear brand 100' 3/8" ID rubber air hose with 1/4" NPT ends costs about $60 where I live (upstate NY), and should be a drop-in replacement. The larger hose should cause about 50% less restriction to air flow than the 1/4" air hose. 2. 110 psi isn't a whole lot of air pressure if you're using an impact wrench. My dad runs his shop's air pressure at about 150-175 psi, and it makes the air tools work MUCH better. Compared to 110 psi, this can increase the power of an air tool by 135-160%. 3. The shank of the ground anchor acts like one of those "torque stick" extensions that some mechanics use to prevent over-tightening lug nuts. In other words, the helical plate at the end of the ground anchor is only seeing a portion of the torque that the impact wrench puts into the eye at the other end of the ground anchor. The constant torque put out by something like a hand drill (but with more gear reduction) would work better, and you could probably figure out a way to use the same adapter that you just made.

[@Dan.Whiteford]

I use a mini version of this tool in a cordless drill or impact driver to install screw-in insulators attached to wooden stakes when doing electric fencing.

[@bcbloc02]

It is against recomendations but our shop runs 175psi line pressure to all our air tools on at least 3/8 hose no more than 25ft long and we use 1/2 hose for 50ft or for the 3/4 and 1 inch guns. The higher air pressure really makes the air tools get after it. I can't think of any tool failures any of the guys have had from running them above the 90psi max the tool makers rate them.

[@jmh8743]

Keith when faced with removing track plates from a loader chain, I discovered the existing bolts were distorted into plastic range. resorted to an 8' cheater bar. too nych walking. found an impact wrench on amazon 1400 ft# for

[@Panzax1]

Isn't there an "object snap" in that plasmacam software ? So that you can just move something to a node and it will automatically hit exactly the node ?

[@KeithFenner]

+Panzax there very well might be one and when I get accustom to it I'll use it. learning all the time. ;{)-----

[@Panzax1]

I understand :) There is a lot of time to be saved with that function. In Autocad you turn it on and off with the F3 button on the keyboard.

[@tracybeme1597]

Great idea! But what about just welding a nut onto the end of the anchor? I'm sure you just need a larger impact gun. An inch should do the job very nicely.

[@howietorock]

nice one but did you check for buried live cables /pipes

[@KeithFenner]

+howietorock our lot had been dig safe inspected before. ;{)------

[@robertlunsford9563]

not meaning to be a troll. I think I have watched and enjoyed all your videos. They are great!

[@pkinpa6778]

This is why we watch.. need something (or think you need something) to make life easier.. make it and go for it

[@fall22123]

When I saw you were going to cut out the centers, I thought it was a mistake at first, then I thought there was something about the design of the tool you were making that I didn't understand. Then it turns out it was just a mistake. We all do it. I was just wondering about your plasma table. Is the area the workpiece rests on disposable and replaceable? It seems to me that it would get pretty chewed up after a while. how long does the table last?

[@KeithFenner]

+fall22123 it is the second table grates in four years, they are consumables. ;{)------

[@ibkoool1]

+Keith Fenner Hey Keith, any particular reason why you used a chrome socket instead of an impact socket? The chrome sockets sometimes have a tendency to split under constant heavy impact.

[@johnrobinson6449]

I have no idea of what your table is made of, but in my high school and in college welding shops the on-edge bars of material that made up the burning tables was 0.25 X 3.0 solid copper. The copper was and is pretty impervious to damage (at least by ox-acetylene burning torches. But I have no idea how copper would fare with a plasma cutter. But then that was also circa 1970 and I am sure copper is much more dear now than then.

[@billdlv]

Keith you had me when you cut out the end caps the first time I was trying to figure out what you were doing. Good job it looks like it made the job easier and if you have to do it again I'm sure you will improve it.

[@KnolltopFarms]

+Bill De La Vega Me TOO! I was thinking hard trying to figure it out, LOL!

[@mertsilliker1682]

you made a plan, worked the plan. I see success

[@guubagaaba8391]

nice job !!! if i had a car like that i would cover it up too !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[@marceltimmers1290]

Hi mate. I was looking at it and thought that you had not adapted the size of the "port" to hold the auger, but at the same time I thought, he must have done that, but alas. Chances are that you might have been a lot better of with a good strong power drilling machine to get those augers in the ground. I have made the same mistake with those pneumatic ratchets. they work nicely on stuck bolts, but are less than useless on projects like this.

[@andregross7420]

Very nice Porsche 944.

[@petessite]

+Andre Gross , like lotus , lots of trouble usually serious !!!

[@HUBBABUBBADOOPYDOOP]

+Andre Gross *_"There is no substitute"_* (their Marketing Phrase for it back then, also quoted by Tom Cruise in the film Risky Business)

[@maynardr6]

I tried to drive an 8" or so inch lag bolt into a oak tree once with an impact. It was so slow, I was sure something was wrong, but turned out, that sort of load is just not a good match to an impact wrench. I agree that a big low geared drill with a nice side grip would be less effort in the end. If I remember correctly, I had to refill my 2 gal air compressor around 4 times to get the bolt in there, and couple more times to get it back out.

[@compactc9]

I caught that mistake as you were making it in the CAD software.

[@heliarche]

Wouldn't be a Fenner vid if the phone didn't ring. I noticed the horse shoe thing early on, figured you had your reasons. Whoops! That CAM makes a slip like that not matter too much though. I guess when the grill on that thing gets really rough you can just cut a new one can't you?

[@member5488]

Since impact drivers seem to lose so much power to any slop or spring back, it can help to hold some preload on the socket in the direction of travel with your off hand.

[@customhaines2510]

I have recently started using a plasma table, though a different brand. I am not getting cuts anywhere near the quality you are. What plasma cutter are you using and what amperage are you set for, what air pressure to cut something that thick? Thanks.

[@jamesrawlings8493]

In this area the mobile home and pre-fab shed installers have a simple U shaped "socket" that attaches to a post hole digger in place of the drill bit. That works very well.

[@shawnmontieth2925]

What drawing program are you using?? Does it come with the table or did you have to purchase separate ?? Reason I was asking, I need some parts cut out on plasma table. Should I have the machine shop input my drawing into there system or could I put on a Zip drive and give to whomever?? Hope that made sense,, Thanks, and your a great teacher..

[@myenjoyablehobbies]

Hi keith, out of curiosity, does your cad program have "snap features built into it", for precision placement of drawn objects? Thanks for all the work and time you take, to put together videos for us to enjoy and learn from.