The inner workings of an International Harvester Cub Cadet Rear Differential

This video illustrates how the rear differential is moving when you are driving your International Harvester Cub Cadet Garden Tractor.
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[@ad356]

i have both a farmall cub (1948) AND a cub cadet original (1961). i absolutely love them both and love telling the story that the little cub has the same transmission as the much larger farmall. people have a really hard time believing that but its true. i consider these two machines to be a pair for someone who appreciates and loves history. that little, tiny (by today's standards) is a tough, reliable little workhorse. i mowed my 1-1/2 acre lawn today with it. incredibly overbuilt but still very serviceable and usable almost 60 years after it was built. i am VERY picky about the mower deck. its in awesome shape, it DOES not get put away without being power-washed. i pull it up on a set of ramps and power wash all of the grass off.

[@jhitt79]

andrew donohue the reason the rear ends are the same is because when I.H. was scrambling to get into the post W.W.II garden tractor market, they simply had a bunch of them laying around.

[@nomad1187]

I was in Tractor Supply yesterday looking for some stuff for my recently acquired cub 1650. While wondering most of the isles I came across paint with Teflon infused in it. Instantly I thought mower deck. I read the can and that is one of it's intended uses. Just sharing, good luck with your tractors.

[@bradvaughan4524]

I hope to start on my cubs soon. I have a 109,129 and a 122. I also have a finished JD 316 Onan and a 318 and 212 started. Love the little tractors.

[@PurpleCollarLife]

Excellent description!

[@glenirwin1110]

Best final drive ever put into a Garden tractor. I had a customer with a 125 Cub Cadet Hydro. He was pulling tree stumps and built up so much torque with the hydro that he shattered the ring gear in half! We could not believe it. So they can be wrecked, but it is not an easy thing to do.

[@servihomestead4324]

This is awesome. Thanks.

[@russjordan243]

Good video man!

[@anthonyg5564]

can you do a video on how the hydro pump works?

[@zmarkgraf]

your channel is brilliant! thanks for the great content

[@Isavetractors]

You're welcome. Thanks for watching!

[@80fordmustang6]

I got a few old cub cadets amazes me how tough they built these things I’ve beat my 128 plowing and it just seems to take it

[@kevinc8026]

Would love to be able to see

[@hunter7476]

Cool we have 4 big cub garden tractors and the cub tractor my garden tractors are both hydro with a Kohler magnum 18 and the gear driven 582 with a b and a opposed twin flathead 16 hp the hydro is an 1811

[@tonyblanton1070]

i ended up getting a used rear end for parts , the pump was completely different but i robed the parts from the inside , they were larger but they fit and it works ....... so now all i have to do is send off one of the relief valves and have it rebuilt and it is back up and running ......... i took it for a test spin , and cut my front yard . other than the valve leaking it works like a champ

[@paulg444]

I have two options on my cub cadet 169, 1) install a locking rear diff (dont know where to start) 2) upgrade/modify my brakes to separate left and right brake pedal controls.

[@cyrusjackson3976]

Hello Ric l have a cub cadet 1250 can't get it to move.It doesn't have push in release valve for pressure.I changed fluid ,filter and roll pins . Wheels will spin when jacked up.What could be problem.

[@bigsexylawson]

I have a cub 2182 and it goes forward strong but won't back up a slight incline. Could it be a hydraulic relief valve?

[@RalphBegalli]

Is there a kit to lock the differential ?

[@FLT1979]

Can you show how to change the oil on a Cub Cadet 129? Or a 149 would be ok since I figure they are about the same.

[@photoartteacher903]

Good video - I purchased a 1972 cub cadet 126 a few months ago. I have mowed a small yard 3 or 4 times. the second time I mowed I stepped on the clutch/brake pedal and the brakes wouldn't do anything and the clutch wouldn't engage to changes gears - I had to turn the tractor off with the key - but When I started back up everything was fine and working as it should. Now just today when I was finishing mowing I clutched to switch from 1st to Reverse and the tractor wouldn't move I tried 1st again and still no movement I tried 2nd and 3rd and the tractor would very slowly move inches - I had a friend push me and after a little pushing the tractor moves again, but each gear seems a little slower and now engine seems to run a little rougher --- Any thoughts ? thanks for your help

[@drakecoffelt6435]

how do you remove a driveshaft on a cub cadet 128? I can't find anything online!

[@mrMacGoover]

I heard the older cub cadet hydrostatic lawn tractors where made super stuff.

[@80fordmustang6]

So far from the two non hydros I've owned I can say they are built tough as well currently working on getting a 125 hydro running again

[@tonyblanton1070]

i pulled the rear end out of my tractor . and removed the pump ass , i turned the input shaft as well as moved the gear selector to both fwd and rev while turning the input shaft , and no movement .. so i unbolted the pump housing but didnt get it to come completly apart , there was some brass slithers fell out ..... so im assuming something is broken inside ..... so i was wondering if you may have a extra pump ass to sell .......... if so price please .... and thank you for ya input or what would you segest me to do .....thanks again

[@scotty362100]

You may have a hard time finding a "pump ass" LMFAO

[@tonyblanton1070]

i finally got my pump apart .. on the lower unit a bunch of the brass wear plates are broke , and the washer around it is also , so my question is , where can i order these parts from , or do i have to go to a dealer

[@Isavetractors]

check out Cub Cadet Specialities: ccspecialties.org/index.html

[@mikewolfe789]

Can you install a rear pto gear on to this rear end from a 63 model?

[@zacharycoslic1274]

Yes it was an option back in 63.and all of the standards could have the Pto

[@coburnlowman]

I've seen a few of these with a pto shaft sticking out of the back plate. All the little cubs had the pto coming out. Would the innards from an agricultural Cub fit inside a garden tractor ? Several years ago I replaced the whole pto on a Super A Farmall but have forgotten how it all went together. My brother broke the shaft and the back housing somehow but it's been too long ago to remember how it all worked.

[@ad356]

that was the optional PTO unti

[@jhitt79]

Yes, the 540 p.t.o. Will swap from a farmall cub to a cub cadet. I don't know why you'd do that though because all I.H. implements run from the front p.t.o. Even if you had a cat 0 3 point on the rear nothing would really need the 540. Also not sure if you are mentioning the super A because you want to replace that but the cub and A rear ends are different.

[@tommyw.9424]

Remember, the Farmall Cub does not have a 540 RPM PTO. It was some proprietary speed, I think maybe 1800 counterclockwise or something like that.

[@stevebosma6534]

I have a Allis Chalmers B210 with 10 hp Briggs and cannot find serial numbers on Engine anywhere -please help

[@Isavetractors]

It should have a Model Number of 243431. The first two digits signify the Cubic Inch Displacement.

[@zack7699]

cub 2082 Hydro - I pulled my rear end out to replace seals because of leaking. Took rear plate off and tried to turn my ring gear and it won't move.... any help appreciated...

[@Isavetractors]

release pressure from your hydro transmission to free up the input gear. With the hydraulic pressure still in, your gears won't turn.

[@zack7699]

Thanks!

[@travelinjavelin]

hey Norman I have a cub 107 now I've noticed a oil leak in my inner rim of my wheel do I need a gasket or a inner seal? do you carry any of this stuff?

[@Isavetractors]

travelinjavelin hi you need an axle seal. you can pull it out and match one at your local auto store. or you can visit ccspecialties.org. they carry lots of stuff for the Cub Cadets

[@travelinjavelin]

what would your recommendation be on how to pull the axle out or easiest way?

[@Isavetractors]

travelinjavelin jack the rear end up. remove wheel. remove rear different cover. there is a c clip that holds the axle in. remove the clip. pull the axle out.

[@Isavetractors]

be aware you will lose all of the oil so have a pan ready

[@travelinjavelin]

so that back cover that you have opened you can go through there to remove clip correct?

[@davidbraun2989]

Do you have such a thing as a torque wrench (adapter?) for those cylinder barrel nuts ? I'm working on a Cub Cadet 1730 now .Where can I go to get one ? I'm in Kansas .Thanks !

[@Isavetractors]

I use crowfeet wrench attachment for a torque wrench

[@kirbylane9451]

I have an old 127 and I have no leaks, but after 5 min. of use or when its arms up the tractors transmission loses power. like it starts slipping in forward and reverse. do I need a new pump. other than that it mows and runs perfect. any ideas on the problem would be appreciated.

[@Isavetractors]

First check your fluid level. Make sure your rear is full to the fill hole in the back. Next check your transmission oil filter. If it's old replace it. Next check the driveshaft coupling between your engine and tranmission. They are held on originally by hardened steel pins. Make sure yours aren't falling out or broken. If none of that helps, your charge pump may be worn. Your charge pump is responsible for getting hydraulic fluid out of your rear end and through the transmission. You will have to remove your transmission and inspect it.

[@kirbylane9451]

isavetractors Hey thanks for your quick reply. I have checked fluid levels and it's full with no leaks. The filter was replaced and coupling looks pretty good. I was also thinking weak pump, as it works ok at initial startup but fades as it warms up. I bought a used 125 rear end with only physical difference, appearance wise is lack of rear disc brakes. I wonder if I could just switch pumps? I know nothing about these hydro units I usually collect gravelys. But I love the looks of this little tractor and bought it at a great price.

[@Isavetractors]

The transmission pumps are all the same except some have additional ports to use hydraulic implements with. They are all sunstrand pumps and are interchangeable with the rear end. You can just switch pumps, or switch parts for the parts with your 125.

[@howtodrawvehicles4504]

I’m restoring a cub cadet 107

[@martymcelligott1318]

I have a cub 108 and the front pto clutch is slipping. Removed the 3 Allen set screws, but can't figure how to get it off the shaft

[@glenirwin1110]

It is a locking ring collar (Two piece collar) there is an indentation to put a punch to it to unlock it. If you are not familiar with how it works find something on youtube or get a service manual. Piece of cake once you know how it works.

[@glenirwin1110]

Okay there are TWO allen screws per hole. The one on top is flat bottomed, and tightens against one that has a pointed bottom. The pointed bottom screw locks in behind the two piece locking collar. Once you take out BOTH screws per hole, the clutch pulley should come off and then take off the locking collar.

[@tonyblanton1070]

i have a 1882 tractor that i just got .... the rear end wont roll . the brakes are free !!!!!! i raised the rear wheels up off the floor with a floor jack and yes they will roll , one one way and the other side the other , due to the spider gears . i pulled the rear diff cover off , to change the oil . all is nice and neat as it should be . but the ring and pinion will not move period !!!!!!!!! it does have a lill slop , as it should of course , but it will not alow it to roll or by the motor ,, when i try to move it with the motor running the pump wines , but no movement at all from the rear wheels ......... the power stearing and the lift seem to be weak ....... i changed the oil and new filter on the hydro pump....... can some one please point e in the right direction ...... thanks

[@Isavetractors]

Your transmission pump may have two little "buttons" on the top of it. If it does you need to push these in before you are able to roll your tractor. Remove your tunnel cover and look at the top of your transmission pump. If there are two little buttons on top of big hex heads, push it. This will relieve the pressure trapped in your transmission so you can roll your tractor. If you see the two big hex heads with no buttons, you have automatic dump valves, and they could be malfunctioning. Remove them with a wrench and clean them in solvent. Once you remove them, you will be able to roll your tractor. Good luck

[@adventureguy4119]

Tractors

[@creativeexperience6388]

Can you do a video on how to lock your dog in a cub

[@creativeexperience6388]

Dif *

[@tonyblanton1070]

my tractor does not have the buttons ...... i pulled both of the valves out and still wont roll

[@Isavetractors]

you will have to remove the transmission pump from the rear end. it's simple. only 4 bolts holding it on. I then recommend disassembling the transmission pump to investigate the problem

[@tonyblanton1070]

ok will do and then i will see whats wrong

[@tonyblanton1070]

i pulled the rear end out of the tractor , and removed the pump. then unbolted the pump housing , i didnot get it to come completely apart but some brass slithers fell out ... and the out put shaft is still stuck will not move........ do you have a good pump ass you would sell ...... if so price please..... thanks for all your help

[@Isavetractors]

+tony blanton tough break. I don't have any spare pumps but Google Joe's Outdoor Power. that's where I get parts when I need them

[@Isavetractors]

+tony blanton tough break. I don't have any spare pumps but Google Joe's Outdoor Power. that's where I get parts when I need them