THE KITCHEN IS TOO HOT AND THE COOKS ARE COMPLAINING

This one kinda gave me a run for my money, I realized the obvious condenser problems but than the other issues laid on top of that....
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[@ouch1011]

I think someone else also said this, but over-torquing the fasteners is not the same as setting the correct tightness. If you install the fasteners with a regular driver, then go back with the torque driver and the fastener doesn’t move before the torque driver clicks, the fastener is over-tightened. You should install the fastener just barely snug, then use the torque driver to tighten it to specifications. Trying to use the torque driver to check the fastener tightness after the fact is the incorrect way to use it.

[@nicholasmendoza6159]

I like the torque elbow. Get the last 1/4 turn out of the torque driver. Do them enough you will be close all the time.

[@bluecar5556]

Verifying torque of a fastener using a torque wrench isn't ideal to begin with as they have too many variables. For an example, in the automotive industry, it's more ideal to use torque wrench with a very low torque spec and then tighten so many degrees afterwards. Ex. 15LB-FT + 90 degrees. No need to worry about if the threads have a spec of dirt on them or are clean, wet or dry. Experience is mechanical aptitude over time. I mean were already using a screwdriver to tighten the screws. It's not like were using an impact driver. If a tech can't learn to not over tighten screws in a contactor, maybe they need to find another field.

[@nicholasmendoza6159]

@@bluecar5556 less variables then a torque elbow.

[@jessyterpoorten7197]

Yes i was looking for this comment he is using the torq screwdriver wrong its over the spec and come after whit the screwdriver on spec will not losen the screws.

[@nicholasmendoza6159]

@@jessyterpoorten7197 nah. Je gets about 1/4 to 1/8 in turn out before it clicks

[@shadowbanned69]

Wax build up inside microchannel due to overheating of the condenser. Seen it before. When sun hits coil directly it overheats and peaks out

[@jasonjohnsonHVAC]

My thought as well.

[@machinerin151]

Does that oil really turn to wax? Damn.

[@OleRazzleDazzler]

Could that be because of a previous repair and not performing a proper vacuum and or using the same gas you pulled out without sending it through a drier

[@OleRazzleDazzler]

Could that be because of a previous repair and not performing a proper vacuum and or using the same gas you pulled out without sending it through a drier

[@laskahvac6689]

When I saw the wires rubbed out on the compressor at 16:32 I was wondering how long it would be until it was a problem. Turns out sooner than later haha. Good video!

[@pomonabill220]

It also looks like there was some kind of wiring holddown behind the compressor.... there is a hole on the sheet metal behind where the cables are bundled together. Possibly the tie/holddown's fastener poped out of the hole.

[@youmager]

Perfect example how NOT run the wires.... Dont get it,why not using plastic wire canals for wiiring the unit.... And those contactors are expose to everything....dust is a killer for contacts...and gets betwen coils...

[@JamesTK]

Fixing the customer is the most important thing you can do. They'll be a better customer in the future and hopefully keep calling you back

[@tbelding]

I'm sorry - I agree with you, but the wording just makes me think "Yeah, make sure they can't breed." :)

[@JamesTK]

@@tbelding could be applicable too in extreme circumstances. Too bad it's illegal

[@deelkar]

About the unreadable displays: (TL;DR below) The Camera on your phone "opens" it's shutter for every frame for a fraction of the time. (professional cameras call this the shutter angle) if the surroundings are really bright, and the camera shoots 60 fps, which means every 16.6ms there starts a new frame for the video, the shutter is maybe open for only 3 ms. The Display of the machine is displaying the text one pixel-line at a time, and your persistence of vision manages to see the entire display, while the camera shuts off after a couple milliseconds so misses all the other pixels. Try filming the same display on a night call or with less ambient light, and see the difference. TLDR: if your camera allows to set F-stops or ISO try really low ISO for bright scenes and really high F-stops, to force the shutter to be open for longer to get more of the diplay on camera for less flicker.

[@patrick12399]

I think he uses his phone, he could try to use an external app to compensate or maybe a blanket to darken the controller.

[@PileOfEmptyTapes]

The crux of the matter is that this kind of camera only tends to have a small sensor and very little space available, so reducing incoming light via a conventional aperture is out of the question - which leaves us with the electronic shutter only and hence this undersampling problem. Not sure whether you can buy ND filters for your phone (I'd start with something like 2-3 stops), otherwise providing shade may be the most practical option indeed.

[@russellhltn1396]

I second the suggestion of a neutral density filter. It might be easier to find a polarizing filter. That also cuts down the amount of light.

[@alexanderkupke920]

@@russellhltn1396 That might especially help as he often is out in bright sunlight and I am not sure if you would be able to dial up the shutter speed enough without burning out the brighter parts of the picture. By the way, 7 segment displays may do the same, and even regular tvs or computer screens, only here you usually see some darker stripes rolling across the screen. Also fluorescent lights, which is why for example go pro cameras have a setting for the frequency, to filter out the fluorescent light flicker. This sjust won´t work with that controller, as that seems to have its own quite odd frequency.

[@exi]

For people that are interested and not from the elctronics field: the technology is called multiplexing and is used to reduce the number of wires needed for connecting the display. See en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Multiplexed_display for details. Lennox seems to use a pretty low frequency and active time for their multiplexing which results in the camera only picking up single lines like deelkar explained.

[@jasonjohnsonHVAC]

I would think oil having been overheating is plugging up the passageway in the condenser tubes is why the head shot way up. If you go there again maybe brake out the IR camera and see if you can see whats going on using it. Just a thought.

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

Great point

[@GeminiSeven43]

Definitely too quick to be just a condenser deteriorating, that was something moving through the system/condenser and luckily you were able to see it happening. After the new condensers/filters/oil are installed hopefully all will be well.

[@rnreajr9184]

One of the reasons that I enjoy this channel is that you explain your business philosophy quite well. And, of course, you continually remind us about seeing the big picture both in word and in action. These apply to much more than HVAC work. Thanks for another good video!

[@russellhltn1396]

You can improve the readability of the display by adding a polarizer or neutral density filter on the camera. That will slow down the shutter speed in the camera.

[@Keaghanwood]

Great advice I do that all the time

[@HCheatNcool]

Gotta love HVAC. Sometimes it seems like every job has some strange problem. The diagnosis is almost never a straight forward by the book issue.

[@analogmoz]

I'm not sure I'm convinced of the usefulness of the high-flow/CoreMax fittings. The very high price and the rate of failure seem higher than any convenience or added benefits.

[@mjboy8790]

Exactly! Glad to see I’m not the only one with same thought.

[@zack9912000]

if i have to pull the charge to fix a leak, i cut them out and put in a normal fitting

[@mrfrenzy.]

I guess the factory fits them because it saves time on first charging. They really don't care about the recovery speed or cost when repairing.

[@Starchface]

This restaurant is suffering from insufficient protective grease on the condenser. The exhaust fans are too far away. :)

[@panamacitybeachbum]

Damn skippy.

[@JoshCP527]

high sub cooling usually means overcharged though back to basics. If you noticed the super heat would also tank during that time. If the discharge and the liquid after pressures would track somewhat the same then I would go with overcharged. if they would go high on the discharge and the liquid after the coil would not spike with it then a plug in the condenser.

[@gbuss814]

Awesome video. At first I thought it was going just be an easy call, but it got real interesting. I think your right about your condenser being plugged. The sub cooling tells you that. The refrigerant is staying in the condenser to long. I never seen a mirco channel condenser deteriorate like that. But like Michigan salt levels pretty low. 🤣

[@michaelstaley9979]

I really appreciate your videos. You teach always to look deeper into the equipment and go through it little by little to find problems that can easily be overlooked.

[@thephantom1492]

My view on the core tool: yes you don't require it, but the time you save by using it, and the money you save to your client (which you don't have to pass the full saving) is very well worth the investment in the long term. The alternative is to sell more parts, like the tee, plus the valves and all, or do the 'hackish' way (pump down and hot swap), or you may have to do a full recovery. For all of those options, it take time. In the end, the customer pay less money, the technician spend less time so can do more work. The business ends up making more money while every customers paid less. Everyone win there.

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

I will discuss this on my Livestream this evening 8/22/22 @ 5:PM (pacific) on KZbin come over and check it out kzbin.info/www/bejne/p33cn6Bmh7aIbbc

As I said few days earlier on another video, that wiring practice in US HVACR equipment is insult to any electrical engineer! That wires should be cables and in wire conduits and trunks wich are properly fixed to housing.

[@shifter8207]

Lennox is great for leaving wires that will definitely rub out the other place that happens is on the crankcase heater They route the wires over a sharp edge of the heater and it has caused shorts for me before

[@aeternusdoleo4531]

Nothing a small bit of rubber and glue won't fix...

[@samuelaranda4568]

Yes special tool charge. Like a reclaim and weld charge. Same thing. You guys have all the nicest tools now that I’m retired. Maybe us retired technicians thought of a tool like that getting tired of all that gear we had to load up for a simple shreader valve

[@lwilton]

It seemed to me that the high pressure only occurred when the compressor started up. After a few seconds it seemed to come back down to normal, unless it was high enough to trip on HP. This makes me suspect some relatively thick material (like maybe oil) pooling in front of a restriction (possibly a deliberate restriction) that doesn't expect to be passing a slug of liquid oil.

[@vincentramirez8303]

Chris your videos are byfar the best educational experience on KZbin. I watch all ur videos not just some..please keep up the awesome work

[@clake8964]

These videos are amazing. I'm not a technician of any kind, but I still really like watching these videos. I might go to an HVAC and refridgeration school after I'm done with my current school (electrical), it seems to be a really interesting job. Have a nice rest of your day!

[@jsfkdkjslfdslfkdj]

I’ve had a handful of microchannel units do the same thing with extremely high head pressure on startup. The first one,I threw my hands up and fired the parts cannon at it. TXV and filter drier. It fixed it, so that’s my solution when I run into it now. I’d love to hear a good explanation of what’s actually going on in this situation.

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

I will discuss this on my Livestream this evening 8/22/22 @ 5:PM (pacific) on KZbin come over and check it out kzbin.info/www/bejne/p33cn6Bmh7aIbbc

[@falloutguy8878]

Thanks for sharing this great video Chris your advice and explaining of problems really helps to know what the situation and how your day to day work goes from simple fixing to really problematic call outs,I wish I had your brains and experience.keep safe dude keep up the great work you do everyday peace bro

[@HappilyHomicidalHooligan]

22:22 What you're looking at is a classic Dead-Short caused by the wires rubbing on that compressor tab until the insulation got thin enough to cause an arc flash. That arc caused the divot you see in the tab as well as the flash-burn pattern on both the tab and remaining insulation... It should also have instantly blown any fuse or tripped any breaker on that circuit, the fact it didn't suggests the breaker might be failing and should be tested by a properly trained technician...

[@uzlonewolf]

Or it did trip the breaker and someone who didn't know any better reset it.

[@HappilyHomicidalHooligan]

@@uzlonewolf Based on what I saw in the video, the wires continued to rub against the compressor tab so every time the breaker was reset, it should have almost instantly tripped again or at least tripped when the compressors turned on and caused vibrations which would then bring the bare wire back into contact with the tab and short out again...

[@Happyface714]

This channel is pretty cool The lil arc on the back of the compressor looks like my needle nose pliers when they "accidentally" contact live wires

[@mattnsac]

Check the breakers too, Ive had the same issue of a intermittent shorted power leads to the compressor, burned contactor and damaged caps and after fixing all of that, also found that the breaker was melted on one phase which was the same phase that was shorting to the comp.

[@TarakuT]

Did anyone notice the wires rubbing out aginst the stage 2 compressor, comming down from the contactors? At 16:34 . the red and yellow wire.

[@aungthiha5050]

Thank you so much Chris. Keep it up. We love your videos.

[@andrewnewell2240]

I love the problem solving, it's refreshing to see

[@ketsuekikumori9145]

29:30: It's the difference between the refresh rate of the display and the rate of the camera. Let's say the display is refreshing at 60 Hz and your camera is recording at 50 Hz. You'll see a flicker or line going down the display in the recording. You won't see this kind of thing with any multiples of the refresh rate, provided they are synced at the start. So if the display is 60 Hz, than any camera recording at 30 Hz, 60, 90, 120, etc. won't show any flickering/line. The reason our eyes (really our brain) doesn't see this is because of a phenomena called persistence of vision. Our brains can only process information so fast (it's way slower than any electronics), it can hold onto stimuli long after the stimulus has ended. We see movies as if it's in motion despite it being a series of still images. Our brain also fills in gaps based on past experiences. We can't see in color or sharply with our peripheral vision. Our brain fills that in based on what it has seen before. We also have a blind spot in our eyes (because the nerve connecting the eyeball to the brain is there), but again our brain fills that in and we don't normally notice. Edit: Removed statement about how lens has nothing to do with unreadable display.

[@babylonandy]

Confirmed, true statement.

[@patrick12399]

But in the Video you can see that in the beginning, when it was brighter, you can see nothing because the lens opens only 3ms so the camera sees a fraction of the displays lines because the display shows only one line at the time. Later that video you can see more of the display because the lens opens up more and sees therefore more of the displays lines. Yes it has also to do with the frequency of the camera but it's not the only reason. EDIT: look at the comment from @deelkar he explains it very well.

[@naturalorang3]

It also has to do with the shutter speed, since the shutter speed will be very fast in very bright situation (like a roof in full daylight) it will only be able to capture one line of the display at a time since its a multi-plexed display. When the shutter speed interacts with the frequency of the display refresh and the framerate of the video we get this effect. This video from SED explains it well - kzbin.info/www/bejne/mn-5pYCjgdGhpac

[@ketsuekikumori9145]

@@patrick12399 Both our explanations are valid, just different frames of reference. Deelkar is explaining what is happening on a frame-by-frame basis, while mine is the macroview. Lens, aperture size, shutter speed (where frequency comes into play), and ISO all dictate how much light gets to the sensor, therefore how much info gets recorded. I was being overly dismissive with my lens comment (which has been removed). Depending on how much he lets the phone autocorrect (more than likely, as manual changes to camera settings on a phone is a giant pain) can dictate changes in how much is seen from the display. If all settings are constant, than an explanation on why one moment you can see more and another moment, less, is when the frame started and stopped. Let's say one frame has an led already on and the frame ends with another led on. Next frame starts with that same 1st led, this time off, while the 2nd led is on by the end of the frame. Frequency dictates WHEN information is recorded.

[@truckerallikatuk]

If those caps did seal perfectly, sooner or later the cap would exit, stage right. No way could it hold significant pressure.

Caps are there to prevent dirt from entering valve!

[@MikeB9771]

Awesome video, this is one I am gonna share as a training video at my work. Especially the end comments. Thanks Chris

[@jasonjohnsonHVAC]

What up Mike

[@Eddy63]

Good catch and good troubleshooting ... Thx for posting ...

[@stevenhorne5089]

THAT WAS AN AWESOME CATCH!!! You'll remember this one for a long time.

[@hkhsm359]

Nice job. Thanks for sharing your experience.

[@panamacitybeachbum]

You know (or should have known) that all of these RTUs are too far from the salt water for it to cause that condenser coil to deteriorate. Besides, if salt air WAS causing the problem... all of the other RTU condenser coils would have the same problem (corrosion). What REALLY caused the corrosion is that somebody sprayed that coil with chemical and didn't rinse it off causing it to crumble.

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

I will discuss this on my Livestream this evening 8/22/22 @ 5:PM (pacific) on KZbin come over and check it out kzbin.info/www/bejne/p33cn6Bmh7aIbbc

[@resident_alien5253]

Good job on the hand and eye protection dude👍 and thanks again for sharing

[@an3k]

The reason why those displays are flickering / not readable for us is the REFRESH RATE of those displays and your camera. a) The individual segments of the display are not lit the whole time but only eg. 50 times a second. b) your camera is a rolling shutter (like most are) and creates the image by scanning a line from top to bottom and left to right. If the displays would be constantly lit we could see them. If the camera were a global shutter we could see the displays too. It's the correlation between the two that causes the issue. It is like when you close your eyes every time (slightly before) a turn signal lights up. It will be like it never lit up at all (do you saw it lighting up?). You could try to change the video settings for a higher or lower framerate, eg. 60 instead of 30 fps or try a slow-mo mode if available - it may help or not at all, depends on the make and model of your camera.

[@AKTheSavage]

Heck yes, new video first thing in the morning 👌

[@Chris_In_Texas]

16:30 I assume they are a bit over tightened as none of them moved that I saw. They should be loosened and then re-tightened to the correct spec, just to make sure they aren't over done. Most people over tighten anyway and stretch the threads. Just as easy to use the torque screwdriver from the start and then you know its not over done. 👍😁 Keep up the good work sir.

[@zekenzy6486]

Great Video. Thank you for sharing. Could we do pump down refrigerant on Roof top package Unit like residencial unit ?

[@Casal70]

Recording Lennox screen, theory and solution: In daylight there is "too much" sunlight for the sensor to get correct exposure for each frame at "normal" shutter speed (time). The camera restricts the light by ridiculous short shutter speed. The Lennox screen updates the display in horizontal rows, one by one. It lights up and shuts down all pixels at that row before displaying desired pixels for next row and so on, at a fixed frequency. The camera has a likely a fixed frequency - frames per second. It collects light at a different frequency than the Lennox screen, therefore it rolls and you see random rows from the whole screen from time to time. The main thing is that human eyes has slightly "capacitive" sensor dots, like a medium fast fading memory. So these bright dots will all be visible for us at the same time, when it is actually flickering. The camera just shows the real deal and has some frame frequency conflict at the same time that makes it even worse. If you restrict the light, put sunglasses in front of the camera. Then it will underexpose the picture, if it didn't adjust the shutter speed. It will immediately open the shutter longer time on each frame to compensate for the missing light and get more light from a longer period. Then it will see more updates on the Lennox screen on each frame as well. Please bring a piece of plexiglas with car window tint if sunglasses is not enough.

[@pietervancort5643]

Wish I’d learn how to work from someone that takes the details about location in mind, figures I’m no the wrong coast to work for you…keep on sharing I learn a lot thanks for sharing!

[@danpresson]

I'm from the old days that doesn't have the technology of now enjoy all new tech you show love your videos and at the end when you explain everything

[@joecorbin5158]

A lot of chem plants I have worked on have a red epoxy looking coating on refrigerant coils/ lines Seems to help things last longer in tough conditions

[@crabmansteve6844]

It blows my mind that they're not coated too.

[@cameronblades2394]

Sounds crazy but got in a fight with a similar Lennox one time with similar issues. LG compressor, micro channel condenser 410a. Found bad crankcase heater. Replaced, spun like a top and never heard back.

[@ShukenFlash]

Going back, at 8:10 it looks like the nick in the wire is already there even the first day you were out. So definitely nothing you did, but I'm surprised it never blew a fuse or anything. Good catch

[@Abhishek-C92]

I have a few system upgraded the condenser coil to copper but there are 2 capacitor one is for fan one for compressor.the fan cap is plastic type dry type maybe . Possible if i replace to oil filled type. Fan speed is not that high. Cause that cap is original to the unit. Company is carrier.

[@jojuae]

Thermal cameras,while pricey, can really help identify plugged channels in condensers to see the temperature difference from channel to channel. I've seen a truck shop use it to help determine bad condensers on big rigs and industrial equipment. Maybe something to try?

[@notarealdruglord]

I know you're not a tech channel in the slightest but seeing your S8 Ultra made me want to buy one and now I have one so thanks I guess

[@jasonmyhren8388]

I’m thinking it may be overcharged. Love the videos keep up the good work.

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

It could be , I will discuss this on my Livestream this evening 8/22/22 @ 5:PM (pacific) on KZbin come over and check it out kzbin.info/www/bejne/p33cn6Bmh7aIbbc

[@creativejamieplays7185]

Looking back in the video the notch was in the compressor and the wire had a black spot when you was inspecting the original contractors.

[@marioobermaier6911]

an good Worker does have the right Tools for His work at Hand, that Tool costs maybe much but helps alot too. In short it is fully worth, also makes the already Hard Work an bit more easy ! Great Video

[@peaceberry7260]

Love the videos man!

[@michaelproust7891]

C Thanks for the information. Could you please explain the dials, what is high pressure on that screen?

[@weld3z]

Amazing job keep it Up 👍

[@stormeagle28]

32:04 - When including the customer, which tool do you recommend for fixing him? Will a hammer probably work fine?

[@laskahvac6689]

There's a reason the sledgehammer is referred to as the "attitude adjuster".

[@ElmerCat]

@ 1:49 - I don't think I've ever seen a USB port on any device labeled like that - a drawing suggesting a thumb drive, but no presence of the universally accepted "saguaro cactus" USB symbol.🌵

[@commenter5469]

Yeah. High subcool means you moving refrigerant too slow. And it has more time to get cooled down. Reduced air flow across condenser will have opposed effect.

[@aeternusdoleo4531]

Deteriorated condensor is not going to cause a massive pressure spike at startup. Seems to be the pressure eventually pushes out whatever is blocking it. Suggests whatever is blocking it settles in a low part of the line, and is semiviscuous, until the pressure eventually pushes it out of the way, but it will settle back. Maybe tarry oil in a part of the tubing?

[@panamacitybeachbum]

It could be that the problem is caused by that same inept tech whom I suspect may have ruined that condenser coil by not rinsing it after a chemical cleaning. He probably found it low on refrigerant charge from the slow leak at the valve and did a gas-n-go without purging the air from his hoses/manifold. I have solved decades worth of problems caused by bad techs. Nobody is perfect, but... I have had a tech say to me after I brought to his attention a life-threatening mistake, " I can't see it from my house". This guy almost caused the death of a co-worker by electrocution(440v.) due to his negligence. Bad apple.

[@jamesplotkin4674]

At approx 16:30 you show us the torque driver and I noticed the wires are chafing against a metal tab on top of the compressor! That red lead is almost breached.

[@bobh6728]

At 5:02 you get a fairly good view of that wire, but can’t tell if it is burnt. At 12:57 it definitely is.

[@soeveth]

I can confirm its shorted at 5:02. I pulled it up on my good monitor and its shorted for sure. I can see the burn mark on the red wire and some burnt copper.

[@cvr24]

Many years ago, I designed an HVAC system for a restaurant in Niagara Falls. The owner was a real penny pincher and didn't want to spend the money on A/C for the kitchen. During the design, we wisely included an empty section in the kitchen rooftop for eventual A/C installation. It wasn't more than two months after the restaurant opened to much fan-fare that the A/C was installed because all the cooks threatened to quit. Today, faced with similar circumstances, they wouldn't need to threaten anything, they'd just go home.

[@dtiydr]

22:10 That one of the problems with lower voltages since the current is higher and fuses have much higher current ratings and small arcs like this won't make fuse to blow as if it would if higher voltage and thus a fuse with lower rating that would have blown for that, as it should.

[@alimuh007]

I would suggest extending the ductwork of the exhaust unit above the condenser coil. I.M.O. humbly submitted

[@samalmo]

Great video, question on the Coremax tool/fittings - I had a call I went on to replace a leaking Coremax fitting on a carrier, had never used the tool before - Unfortunately I had to go back because I had over torqued the new Coremax fitting when he replaced it - I was not aware they need to be torqued to like 8lbs is that correct? He googled that - Anyways, point of my question is did you buy the JB Coremax Torque Wrench (P# CM-TRQ) it is like $300 our cost at RSD, worth it? Or can we get away with a normal torque wrench? Also to give some additonal information, we have 1 coremax removal tool we share within the company, so the wrench would go in the box with the tool for anyone to use when we need to replace a leaking valve core on a carrier (we usually do the service tee quick fix you mentioned until we can return with the tool to change it).

[@OleRazzleDazzler]

Is it txv or one of those small many orifice manifolds? Like the little jets? As the pressure goes up it looks like it clears the build up on the metering devices(s)

[@ahmadhamad86]

Man I have seen this many times on Lennox units, it is a plugged up condenser. But good video man

[@JR-ch8rt]

18:55 The same thing happened to me on a York 5 ton Package Unit

[@mrgreen9086]

Is there a way to redirect the flow coming from the exhaust fans?

[@panamacitybeachbum]

That EF could be elevated.

[@crabmansteve6844]

Is there a way to truly clean the inside of the microchannel? Like draining the oil and using a solvent inside? I'm no AC guy but most oils will turn waxy if they're overheating and it could be clogging the passageways in the microchannel.

[@samsimington5563]

Now wonder the leads of the old contactors were burnt, the wires had out on the crappily placed condenser, causing the arc out that caused that notch. Maybe that's what supposedly blew the contactors that actually somehow saved the breaker from blowing via an electronic sacrifice :-0

[@ATSNorthernMI]

Oh yeah, its still warm in the managers office. You gotta set the A/C to like 62 degrees for them to be happy. They don't care about the energy they are just wasting as long as they feel cool while they play solitare on the computer.

[@amtrak1007]

camera shutter rate and LED display refresh rate is what causes that inability to be recorded. I found it very interesting to see how the controller was refreshing the information on the display, which we wouldn't have seen if the refresh rate and camera shutter rate were in a better ratio.

[@flyinghigh5531]

My company is about volume.. to many office workers to pay for.

[@VSteam81]

I thought the title was "THE KITCHEN IS TOO HOT AND THE COOKS ARE COOKING" lmao

[@knockitofff]

25:51 the head pressure shoots up way too fast for it to be the condenser coil, you've got something floating around in that circuit or a metering device issue I'm thinking

[@rawn9234]

Godspeed brother

[@joehead1294]

What is the purpose of the black marks on the connector insulators? Maybe it means it was tightened and marked final. Doesn't seem to mean anything else.

[@megason2]

I wear me sun glasses at night.. sorry couldn't resist

[@dmitriystratovich5809]

Wondering if you can see the restriction with your flir.

[@ryans5959]

Good stuff bud!!

[@sharc61]

Could it be as simple as the heat from the exhaust fan defeating the cooling effect of the condenser fans on that first stage?

[@moonlightacmaintenance3232]

Micro channels are pretty sensitive to overcharging correct ? That oil on the lines is probably from someone gauging up to check charge because it was low from the leaking core max. I’d say the txv is keeping the evap at bay and condenser is slightly flooding. Just me guessing. I worked on a micro channel not to long ago that operated with a liquid line solenoid. It was slightly over charged and going out on high head before cutting out on low pressure. I recovered some refrigerant and never had a problem again. Not much room for condenser flooding.

[@fredflintstone8048]

Those wires did not have their insulation rubbed through overnight. It's why it's always good to do visual inspections anytime you're looking in a unit. It was just an unhappy coincidence that they finally rubbed through and grounded to that tab on the compressor after you changed the contactors.. Moving the wires to do the contact replacement may have sped up the process a little. In any case always look for sharp edges that wires might rub up against in any equipment where there's the least amount of vibration.

[@beto-em5kn]

the screen looks weird on the camera because the camera takes pictures in sequence to form a video, and the screen shows one line at a time, as you are in a very bright place the camera's exposure time is greatly reduced so it only captures some of the lines

[@rogersmith8593]

If businesses would fully understand the end cost savings from having a regularly scheduled preventative maintenance service in place, I believe more places would use this service. It is something we, as techs, need to educate our customers about.

[@zjeepgozweeln]

Do they use a filter changing/coil cleaning vendor? It wouldn't surprise me if someone used the wrong cleaner and wasted those coils. 25 miles from the ocean around southern California is usually a little too far for away for that type of corrosion, imo. Also maybe they would approve a little plenum riser on that upblast exhaust fan? I bet 1-2' would make a world of difference in keeping that coil cleaner and happier. If they approve the coil replacement, do/will you automatically replace the TXV? I'm with you on suspicions of a restriction. Coil or TXV, gotta be something funky going on.

[@NeonDreams7]

At 15:20 , you can see the exposed wire.

[@robertpeters9438]

Why not replace contractors with higher capacity ones so they can cool more effectively when cycling on high head pressure. In extreme heat areas, stock contractors are inadequate, especially if rapid cycling. Engineer here.

[@Casal70]

The size does not compensate for dust related issues.

[@cameobanks2057]

Where did you get your spray wand from?

[@ElmerCat]

@ 14:55 - Why are all of the terminals at the contactors marked up with a Sharpie? They're all marked the same, so it can't be for identification.

[@justin4n6]

Marking that they have been torqued properly, or that they are connected properly during initial assembly at the factory.

[@ElmerCat]

@@justin4n6 Done at the factory? - It seems strange to me Dave would use permanent markers like that. So, the terminals are supposedly torqued properly at one particular moment in time. That's of no use to Chris when he's working on the unit years later. If the factory really did mark the terminals, it implies to me they'd been having serious problems with quality control. It reminds me of when I was a technician in a factory which built telephone systems (OKI Electronics of America, in Ft. Lauderdale). At one time, we had problems with the power distribution wiring, where the terminals at power supplies and buss bars were deficient or not tight. To address the issue, the QC procedures were changed to include very specific inspections and testing of each terminal. However, instead of marking everything up with a Sharpie, the QC inspector would use their numbered stamp to mark particular locations on the frame to certify particular terminals met their specifications. So then, what about all of the other terminals in the Lennox unit which aren't marked with a Sharpie? Did no one check to see they're correct? (Of course, they probably did, and marked their stamp somewhere on the frame, just like was done back at OKI.)

[@DigBipper188]

On 13:23 With expensive tools, a lot of people don't quite see the value in them unless they themselves use those specific tools regularly. That's understandable, but as you mentioned, those expensive tools can quite easily pay you back long-term or at worst break even in time and effort required to perform a job. Why do mechanics like snap-on, for example? By home-gamer metrics, their tools are insanely expensive and most cheaper tools can do what snap-on can do without issue... sooooo Is it the w*nkfactor? - no (to a degree. some people like to shill them but Snap=on are still popular for a reason) Lifetime warranty on certain tools? - yes Do the tools last long enough to pay themselves back over time? - It's to be hoped so since they advertise ROI despite the high expense!

[@thomasdr08]

Boy, we we had more techs like you in the cable industry, all would be well. TQA, all day.

[@tylersheehy3918]

I've worked in a old kitchen that actually had no ac no air units only stand up fan the trick is too cool off in the walk-in

[@HappilyHomicidalHooligan]

18:50 Bad High Pressure Sensor on Compressor 1 maybe? Either that, or something somewhere is Pluggo-Buggo as you would say... 😄😁😆😅😂🤣 20:22 The fact that the pressure shoots way above what it should ever be on startup and then almost immediately drops suggests to me that the sensor is Borked...

[@a.j.haverkamp4023]

LED lights do flash (invisible to the human eye), you can only film or photograph a LED display with a longer shutter time. But you might need a tripod to be able to do that. LCD screens don’t have this “problem”.

[@marcoferreira226]

When u empty a bottle of zoom spout oil clean it and fill it with big blue it's a game changer. Best way to check for leaks

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

Great tip!! Thanks I will try that send me an email and I will pass that tip on to Refrigeration Technologies

[@meeder78]

In my industry we use Snoop leak detector from Swagelok which is already in such a bottle. That works great as well. The advantage of the spray bottle is that you can aim from some distance away.

[@HVACRVIDEOS]

I will discuss this on my Livestream this evening 8/22/22 @ 5:PM (pacific) on KZbin come over and check it out kzbin.info/www/bejne/p33cn6Bmh7aIbbc

[@hvacslayer2929]

@@meeder78 the snooop!! Only bubbled we’re a leak is 🤘🏻

[@ntsecrets]

That was fun!

[@gablacasseb]

Micro channel unit are designed so precisely, the precise amount of charge for the btu needed.. probably need to pull the charge out and put a pound less and ajust with sh et sc