The Longer Ray5 Full Review

[@cmdr_stretchedguy]

Since many of us have 3D printers, just use the rod to tighten it down, then measure the height of the laser cover off the surface, and 3D print a small block that same height, plus it should double to help level it left to right. Alternatively use this laser to cut a small piece of plywood that proper height and width. Using the tool to create something else to be used for/with the tool.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Yes either of these will work.

[@3dtexan890]

As far as the focus issue, why can't you use the tool to focus it then measure the distance from the bottom of the protective shield to your work and then 3d print a square piece of filament to slide between the shield and your work? Just askin'.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Yep you can certainly do that. Diode lasers tend to be constant focus anyway for the focal distance is as critical as it would be on a CO2 laser

[@Fossy35]

@@SteveMakesEverything In my case I found that after setting the 30mm setting piece at the back, the front distance from the bottom of the shield to the work was 3mm. So a piece of 3mm ply under the protective shield easily focuses every time.

[@Fossy35]

n my case I found that after setting the 30mm setting piece at the back, the front distance from the bottom of the shield to the work was 3mm. So a piece of 3mm ply under the protective shield easily focuses every time.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

@@Fossy35 This distance is typical for many lasers, so I usually do the same thing. It's far easier to find a piece of 3mm acrylic in my shop than to try to locate one of those focusing ingots.

[@Fossy35]

A really good review thank you. I have since bought this Laser. Have you tried running the same Lightburn file from an SD card in this laser? When I do this, the laser frames in a different position. I cant understand it. I cant really use my new laser until I get this sorted.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

You can’t really predict how the SD card images will output. They are essentially files that have already been converted to GRBL (the laser’s language) so any positioning and settings are already coded into the file. You get what you get from them

[@Fossy35]

@@SteveMakesEverything Hi Steve, when I do this the file is also framed about twice the size on the laser. I cant possibly see how I can use it through an sd card. Unless I am saving the file wrongly.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

@@Fossy35 OK I thought you referring to the images supplied by Longer. This problem has to be configuration and there are a couple things you can do to test this. First, on the front panel of the laser, move the laser module 100mms and measure that it moved that much. It should work because the laser is doing everything. If it doesn't then you will need to do a factory reset on the laser because the stepper settings are incorrect. Next, repeat this test in Lightburn using the manual controls provided there. It should obviously move the same amount. If it doesn't then the profile in lightburn isn't setup properly, so try deleting it and reinstalling the laser.

[@Fossy35]

@@SteveMakesEverything Thank you for your patience Steve. It's much appreciated. I have tried a 100mm movement on both laser and Lightburn and they are both correct. I am beginning to think I have a faulty Laser. Although it works perfectly when connected directly to Lightburn. Its only when I try to run it from an SD card.

[@SteveMakesEverything]

@@Fossy35 Not sure how you can possibly save a file wrong, so it's more likely something else - like a firmware bug. See if Longer has an update that you do not have. I guess it depends on your setup, but I generally find the SDCard/sneaker-net model pretty ineffective anyway, so anytime I use a laser, it's either on my network or connected via USB. It's just so much more convenient.

[@Fossy35]

At 7.50 would you know what the HHome and Unlock buttons are for?

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Actually I don’t use anything front the front panel. Once you get Lightburn running you don’t really need any buttons on the laser

[@waveformsu]

Hello & thank you for the great review! I think you said you design in other graphics tools, then load design into laser using Lightburn or GRBL. If so, what graphics tool(s) do you like and is there an implication that Lightburn is not the greatest design software. I just got a Ray 5 and am struggling to get it connected to/through wifi or laptop with Lightburn trial version. Thanks again, Robert

[@SteveMakesEverything]

Most of the basic design I do is in Inkscape but if I’m doing something advanced with multiple parts that need to fit together accurately I will use Fusion 360 and then export all the piece to SVG so I can use them in Lightburn. As far as connecting to Lightburn, I have found that to automatic connect wizard fails more often than not, so you will want to do a manual connection setup. Also WiFi on almost every laser is pretty dubious so you are definitely better with a USB cable.

[@clauderaasch624]

Me too waveformsu. I don't think I am that dumb not to figure it out, but I can't get lightburn connected either through wifi or USB connection. Did you ever get it connected. Lightburn seems a little confusing as for what I need it for also

[@ankopainting]

You really need air assist for your cuts. Also I think you need more tests rather than one of each. You never honed in the settings. Ta

[@SteveMakesEverything]

It's a fair observation, but I purposely don't tinker with settings to make things perfect because then someone would accuse me of cooking the tests.😀. So deliberately test with the out of the box settings. There is no question that most lasers can be tuned for better performance and quality, but honestly this will beyond the scope of many new users who just want to focus on a simple engrave or cut. I really should do a video on common setting that people might want to tweak though.